IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIK  SfREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(714)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institi  to  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  iti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmaga 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 

D 
D 
D 

n 

D 
D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagie 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6td  film^es. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


[^ 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commeptaires  suppl^mentaires; 


7i 


D 
D 

n 
n 

D 
D 
D 
D 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^colordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualiti  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  material  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiliet  d'errata.  une  pelure. 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  dt 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

X 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


e 

Stalls 
s  du 
lodifier 
f  une 
Image 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupiication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n4rosit6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupiication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  I'exemplaira  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


)S 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film^s  en  commencant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


errata 
to 


pelure, 
3n  it 


J 


n 


32X 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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APR  27  1917 


BalMvd  MMrffaif  t*  Um  A«t  d^Ceaina.  in  Mm  yMr  IMS,  ky 


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:  i*Vv,;  r^'^v  S!'*' 


>,  *  •Mnmanij  ffWfSM,  n«»o*. 


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RECOMMBNDATIONS.. 

IMH  BBH.  ULLaUM,  IX.  m,  VMfIMM  OV  OMBIIimT,  ambOOTt  *••«• 
TM.I  OOLUNI. 

t  hay*  peniwd  with  BiMh  Mtkftetlon  and  initnieUon,  tlw  lUv. 
SMnnel  Pf>rkoi'f  Tow  beyond  Um  Rooky  MoonUino,  tnd  bam  kW«s 
floyiM  of  it  to  Mkntifie  flrienda  in  Eni«|M,  on  aoeonnt  ot  Iho  valnmUo 
gMlOf  iMl  fact*  whioh  it  oentmina.  B.  SILUMAN. 

T»k  CoUege.  Oet  Slat.  184S. 


m 


•*TU«  ft  on*  of  tha  moat  aathaatio  and  intereathit  i^iitiMto  «• 
liava  of  tho  eoontry  of  Onfoo,  er  watatii  of  tlie  CohunUa.  and  oflhil 
ofcaraetar  of  the  Indian  trilwa  of  that  aavage  country.  Tha  author 
Mnga  to  tho  Bobjeot  all  the  l[no«rled|e,  indoatry.  oanSor,  and  pie^ 
hafomiojr  hia  miuloa  and  pntonaioaa."^AitnK<  from  OBAKfCBL. 
£0R  KENT'S  CturH  rf  tUOimg,  fa»nkhH  at  <JU  rtftMM  rf.  A* 
tTtw  Vmrk  Itirwinila  .ttirary  l»ww|art»a. 


wuatv.  mtfMuiv,  B.  An  manOR  w  tmammfxmnmf. 
■hiio,       ,H»fmi^  Mi^Jhetlun  K^flfftet  Tonr  twysM  **>•  8«^y  Mt(m^ 
|Mia>irMi wnaijMWi  fanasWl^   h«plMdi*B*r«iimaiiaCM*M 

il^WtifO  H  vm9  Veniarluafaif  tofVHy  olaaa  of  raadma.    1  an  (U 

'  ||Kb«mitkk)«'a«*>M«A(lMlHMi'hB«^'Mao^  ft^imoli 

liiilt  fif  l^Aj  fratiii^iiHa.  h«t  «r,BMdM«ed  verity  mU  Ugh  iairiMia 
,aMitt.  The  ffipdp,'  aC  «!«  '■iiaaioMi:F,«aina,  .ai»i,«r  tho  i^kw^^ 
tiibaa  beyead  Uie  araantataa»  who  ibaira  uai  yat  aara  (hia  votaiiiClKW 
a  iMi  mefaioR  bdhn  tbMk    -  -  V.  HDIUPaUV. 


nhr 


BMraa»" 


a^H^ 


t  Ma  happy  ^'eoMar  te  tht  ahov^viawa  tMfieeti»f  lb*  AqMH 


>>. 


wmm 


mm 


puppp 


vuxmusmiATtw*- 


Now  lltMO,  Not.  Utb.  18W- 

I  hvm  road  the  »Moaat  aryaar  JowiMjr  orw  Um  Raeky  MoaaUlM 
to  Um  Pkaifie,  with  aoeh  alMkoaoa.  It  eonUiiw  maeli  Ttlubfa  to. 
fbtsatioa  iMptoUai  a  r«rt  of  oar  oontiiMnt,  wUoh  ia  ia^parftoUy  «u 
ylaa«4.  I  hot*  Uw  poUioaaoa  of  tho  book  wUl  ampl/  nwaid  yov 
labors.  N*  WBVSTBft. 


:•■ 


i> 


't'' 


••TWa  ia  a  work  of  oxtraordinaiy  morit,  aad  femiahaa  riek  bad 
aliko  to  (ka  aaa  of  aoieaoo  and  Um  oaksanod.  ItiaoaooflkoaNi* 
dwHr  ialaroitbg  vohuMO  tkat  kaa  over  faMad  ftoaa  Uia  Amariaa* 
ffaaai  toaawwoh  aa  It  praawitiv  to  a  ylato  aad  BBaikclod  atyk alowa 
of  kaMrladfo  ooaoonlag  »  yottUa  of  our  eoontiy  wkiok  barotoAw 
k«a  kaaa  kat  paitiallj  w^tarad.  TUa  b  a  vbfoma  wkWk  ewiiaaafc 
tealf  to  tko  eareiU  paraiol  of  «Ha  of  ovory  elaaa,.  aad^  ao  marfdlava 
an  ila  tratiM,  tkal  it  aoodi  kat  tha  BMrit  of  koine  a  worii  oT/ftUMi  to 
gata  ftr  k  aalfowal  «iwalalk«."--iBiifaaary  Jliwald;  Oimimnti. 


*»'kr.  Vkikor^  okNml&iM  aa  «w  g«ai«g)r  aad  gMfnfliy  « tko 
•oteny  tkN«|k  wkiek  ka  paaaai,*^  aMwrteMyiMMh  twlea  iko  aa|l 
«rife«a{hHaa.  TodtfMMkidrttittrfbMliaiSilodllaiiUi««k 
b  a"a%wiayo> ;,  to  tfca  adyaaaiaaol  fkiatga  mmittuta  mmt^m. 
iilaa^oaortkalraMMiljraaditfw.  ItbtUwHatodbxaatw 
■HV  iioai  aetaal  o^aarratiatt  artha  torHloiy  ortka  trattad  Statoa  1MI 
WtkattaaUa  cT  WmMAfi-J9m  YMkr.  Mtf  Ok  18N. 


an  daa  ta-aaaMtow  adUon  of  frtadiaali 
ka»a  gitaa  «ka  work  a  Citarakla  noHaa. 


iSHammm 


..j^...,,^i«.i.^^,.....,.....^^^|y||^gg 


>f .  Utb,  ISlt. 

toekyMooaUiM 
nodi  TsluUa  lib 
;■  imparlbtllj  •!• 
nplj  nmui  y«w 
WEB8TBE. 


rnlalMM  rioh  bad 
iaoiMofUwaoil 
m  Uw  AmwkMi 
betod  ttyb,  uton* 
wlHah  heretelbn 
irU«h«muaw4 

woriioOlftttMto 


gMgMfliy  «r  tw 

MlIuiUi««lll 

isw*a«MwiMr- 

THitoA  SteiM  1MM 
1898. 


offirid«wiliWid 


mil  imp 


mmmimm 


mmm 


I  ** 


PREFACE. 


In  preMDting  to  th«  pubUe  tlw  Jounwl  of  t  Tour  Ujimi 
()m  Rooky  Mounuins,  tho  only  •pology,  nae—ary  to  oAr, 
ii  Uw  hope  of  ^promoting  »  mora  ratntdro  immI  futimitt 
kaowM;^  dun  Km  httberto  boon  fUnUibod.  of  Um  opwlfc. 
liiiaofttatintpwtaiUMotkmofovgreeiuuijr.  TboAuliNt'p 
mil  of  JrtTfUif  ftimlalied  away  ^ppvlm^tiM  ftr  oliirf 
i^gpi,  bo}«g  QoiidiiAM  witb  JlfflfWtt  tliromli  ^mw  of  tiM 
VHtm  inMra^lQg  poitiou  <tf  tho  wldo  toriitociM  of  dw  f|||. 
It  l»  boUoTod  thai  no  dotbeta  «siit  In  tbw  woc^  im««. 
«tt»Ue  with  •  ilijbt  iMllieraiMa  to  ftot%  ipd  (Mi  P9nip% 
looi  ngpurd  to  truth  hi  tbo  pi^jpil  iQ^rlt  f  liOmod  i»r  ^. 

Mtbof*!  ponMwl  obMmUkw,  wad  whi^vor  i>  itattd  wl^ 
dl4,M|;  WM  <4>t«iiMd  from  genllameii  oon»Mtod  iHt||.t|M^ 
Bii^  Ji«y  pQjBHNuiy.wbfaw  npntMlPia  fbr  hQiMMl;^ mod 
jiWdor,  M  veil  w  oap»UU^  of  fudging  h)ta]ilJgmay,,ip  f«)2 
»fW>Wiibod  Tbia  ■ourvo  <Mr  iaibrmttioo  fm  nHu|f  atiO.- 
■hlo  bv  ooUflotiiis.  and  MmBuiiut  tbs  ■*»*—»»««*■  itf  diflHv 
^IqditildMalf,  iMUiMng  f jbtt  opin^tiqpoi^tdi  VJMi  m 
«b«iiiptt|$!%  ^  wpi  w»U  Mvportod  by  oridiii^  7%i 
Utf;M  cbwriWi^.UMt  tko  ibUowiog  wo.<ii(  oonl«b)t  a  ffitter 


^ 


^  rmifAoi. 

Amount  of  •UtiMioal  lnfcnn»tion  in  regard  to  the  oounlry, 
and  important  facta,  than  i«  to  be  found  in  any  production 
ftimiaited  by  the  pi«ai.     Hr.ving  gone  over  a  greater  ex- 
tent  of  territory  than  any  traveler  who  had  preceded,  and 
with  the  cxpr»«  object  of  exploring  the  condition  of  the 
aboriginal  population,  thia  poeitlon  cannot  be  ooneidered  aa 
aMumed.     Meaara.  Lewia  and  Clarlto  paaaed  the  Rooky 
Mounta'na  under  a  governmental  appointment  to  explore 
the  country,  more  than  thirty  yearn  aince,  and  their  pub- 
liahed  narrative  carriea  with  it  evidence  of  oMidor  and  in- 
talligenoe,  and  oontaina  much  valuable  infermatlon  ;  yet 
their  opportunltiea  for  obeervadon  were  aomewhat  limited. 
They  paaaed  over  the  great  chain  of  mountaina,  ftwa  the 
head  watera  of  the  Miaaouri,  between  the  45«»  and  46*  of 
north  latitude,  and  came  upon  the  head  watera  of  the  Coca- 
ooota-kee,  and  followed  that  riv«r  to  ita  junoUoo  with  the 
Lewia  or  Snaka  river,  and  the*  ^rooMdtA  by  water  to  the 
Pacific  ocean  at  the  mouth  of  the  ColumWa  river ;  wintered 
upon  the  aouth  aide  of  the  bay,  and  eariy  the  following 
apring  returned  to  the  roountoifla  by  the  aame  route  which 
they  pursued  on  their  outward  journey.    All  other  peraona 
who  have  publiahed  any  hiatory  of  their  travels  beyond  the 
mountains,  were  penona  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  ani  many 
of  their  obaervationa  upon  dilTerent  aectiona  of  the  country 
iBe  juat,  birt-they  are  deficient  in  statiaticat  Information, 
•nd  their  produotiona  are  moat\y  confined  to  pemnal  ad* 


mm 


.■■iMiniifiriiMmiri'ii  fiii  nrfnii  mniifiri'friiriiiaiiimMlMlimaiin 


w»'    '"  #  "^wlWIIIWPHWWIi'^ill  11^1  »* 


0  the  oouBtry, 
my  production 
r  •  graater  ex- 

preceded,  and 
ondition  of  the 
B  considered  m 
aed  the  Rooky 
lent  to  explore 
and  their  pah- 
candor  and  ia- 
ibrmation ;  yet 
lewhat  limited, 
itains,  thm  the 
450  and  46<*  of 
ereoftheCooa- 
notioQ  with  the 
by  water  to  the 
river;  wintered 
f  the  following 
me  route  whloh 
A\  other  peraone 
LTela  beyond  the 
trade,  aai  many 

1  of  the  ooantry 
cal  infbrmatioD, 
I  to  pemoal  ad- 


HMN 


HfMMH 


'  raBTAOs.  ^ 

VenturM,  aneodotee  of  battlee  with  Blaekfcet  or  Crow  In- 
diann,  ularvatlon,  and  hair-breadth  escapes.  Justice  to  the 
pttblio  requires  Adellty  in  the  historian  and  traveler.  It  is 
not  thrir  basineas  to  originato  facts,  but  to  record  them.  The 
lioenso  given  to  poets,  or  writers  of  romance,  cannot  be 
loleratotl  here,  and  no  flighu  of  a  lively  imagination,  or 
graphic  powops  In  relating  passing  occurrences,  can  atone 
for  impressions  which  are  not  in  accordance  with  truth. 

While  ifVas  a  leading  object  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  situalion  of  the  remote  Indian  tribes,  and  their  disposi- 
tion in  regard  to  teachers  of  Christianity,  yet  a  careful  at- 
tention was  given  to  the  geography  of  the  country,  with  its 
productions ;  the  climate  and  seasons,  animals,  lakea,  rivera, 
and  smaller  founuins ;  foresU  and  prairiea,  mountains  and 
yalleys,  its  mineral  and  geological  structure,  and  all  the  va- 
rious  aspects  of  its  physical  condition.    Tlie  country  here 
described  is  ttd  gen«ri*  ;  every  thing  is  formed  on  a  large 
scale.    Its  lofty  and  perpetual  snow-topped  mountains  riainf 
80,000  &et  or  more  above  the  ooean,  the  trees  of  the  forest, 
the  widely  extended  prairies,  plants  of  enormous  growth,  and 
the  resultw  of  volcanic  agency  which  arc  met  with  in  almost 
every  direction,  render  the  whole  an  ever  increadng  seen* 
of  interest  to  the  traveler ;  and  if  any  statements  appear 
large,  it  is  because  the  (koto  are  so  in  themselves. 

It  has  been  an  objtet  in  writing  this  volume  to  conddw 
aa  much  aa  possible  the  amount  of  informatkm,  instead  of 


wmoiwirfly  MtMidMng  H,  wad  the  hop*  U  ia^lgad,  IImI 
whil*  Umm  fluiu  %n  peruMtl,  Um  dMira  nmy  b*  »w»k*iMdf 
if  it  dc  not  ftirMwijr  mU^  lo  beooAt  the  origimi,  thu  rigittAil 
owner*,  and  with  the  exception  of  «  few  thouenod  fur  tr»- 
4ere  eoattered  in  every  direotioa  over  this  territory,  the  aole 
oocupente  of  this  wide  Aeld  of  unoultiveted  nature. 

The  map  whioh  aooompanie*  tiie  worit,  tiae  been  prapand 
witli  much  labor  and  oar* ;  and  though  aoiiw  minute  parte 
are  omitted,  it  will  be  found  &r  more  aoourate  than  any 
whioh  hae  before  been  publiabed.  In  addition  to  my  own 
•urreya,  I  iiave  availed  myeelf  of  thoee  of  gentlemen  ooa. 
n*oted  with  the  Hudaon  Bay  Company,  in  parte  which  I  did 
Mt  viait,  and  am  eepeoially  indebted  lo  Vancouver,  and  the 
laboi*  of  other  explorers  for  much  that  I  have  deltaieated  of 
the  North- Weet  coaat  of  tk*  Pacific  ocean,  and  tlie  lalanda. 


lirliMMl 


iiii 


ili^Ig«4,llMt 

U,  UMrigkiM 
umumI  fur  tm- 
ritory,  ttui  noU 
ftturt. 
be«Mi  pr«|Mur*d 

•  minuu  part* 
irate  (han  any 
ion  to  my  own 
;«ntl«iii«n  oca. 
rt«  whkh  I  did 
ouYar,  and  tW 

•  delineated  of 
•d  tlM  leiaodtt 


f,  ,¥■'.• 


rREFACS  TO  TRC  FOVBTR  KDITIOir. 


Tn  Intereat  the  public  have  taken  in  thia  work,  evinced  . 
by  the  many  higbly  commendatory  reviewi  and  notioee, 
which  have  appeared  in  numeroua  periodicals,  religioua,Mi. 
entiAo,  and  political,  both  in  thie  country  and  in  BMrop», 
together  with  the  sate  ofthe  former  editione,  hae  influenced 
the  author  to  publ  ieh  a  fourth  edition.    Many  pereone ,  whoee 
judgment,  extenalve  knowledge,  and  piety,  entitle  them  to 
be  held  in  high  estimation,  have  encouraged  him  to  believe 
that  this  work  has  been  interesting  to  men  of  science,  useAil 
in  advancing  general  knowledge,  and  promoting  the  spirit 
of  miiaions,  and  what  is  not  the  least  to  be  valued,  in  awa. 
kening  a  sympathy  for  tlie  long  neglected  Inuians  of  Oregon. 
As  it  was  an  object  in  preparing  the  flrtt  edition  to  com- 
press as  graat  an  amount  of  information  as  possible  in  the 
compass  of  a  duodeoemo  volume,  so  in  this— the  same  object 
has  been  pursued.    Since  the  publication  of  the  first  edk. 
tia»,  the  whole  worii  has  been  attentively  revbed,  corMcted, 
and  enlarged.    It  is  hoped  that  it  will  contribute  its  inffu- 
eaiM,  however  small  it  may  be,  in  aiding  the  eauee  of  hu. 
man  welfcre.    I  shall  be  pardoned  if  I  assert  the  senrt. 
ment,  that  the  aoquialtkMi  of  all  knowledge  ehould  be  made 

3* 


mm 


g  mrAci  TO  m  romiTn  iDirtoir. 

■ubMrviont  to  ihU  Important  me,  an«l  ihat  th«  gold  from 
•ny  ntgion,  if  it  cannot  ba  reAned  In  thii  oruoibia,  ia  of 
no  m\  v«liw,  and  whatavar  will  not  directly  or  Indlrtot. 
ly,  naarly  or  ramotely,  concur  in  thia  great  end,  muat  at 
length  endure  the  ultimate  fkte  of  that  "•  knowledge  whicU 
ahall  vaolah  away." 


'^'.,.Ni 


ib'-*m->. 


mmmmbimimiliiiM 


mimmmt 


mtrmmmmmmm 


IB  gold  from 
rucibl«,  !•  of 
^  or  indiraot. 
nml,  muat  at 
wlodge  whlc'j 


CONTENTS. 

ClIAPTtm  I. 

•n»«  T<mr  ccmroomMKl  by  *•/  of  Buff.la.  Erie  t]i4  PiU«bi»r|bj 
pamg*  U»  CinoinniU  li»  lUe  iUani  b<«l  Obiomii  i  lh«  .Uitin. 
bMl  IftkM  flra  i  Cln«liin«»l ;  Ml*  ofthe  C»l.io  j  (li«  Oblo  Ri»«»  1 
OUo  and  lUntiwky  j  «M>nflu«n«i«  of  lh«  OUio  w»a  MiMi^ipH* 
rlvmi  Point  Olrordou  j  betuUful  »pp««r«iieB  of  ftr«  on  Iho 
pnirk  i  Bl.  0«n«TleTe,  old  ouatom  i  llnrettl«n«um  i  Ktmbliag 
eo  bQ*r4  Xhm  aUtm-boi^i  it.  Loai«|  Dr.  M.  WlilUpwi  j  Mr. 
FoatMMll*.      .       .       » 


OHAPTBB  II. 

U»m  St.  Lonta  «4)»  Ubwty  \  pMw»«  "►.»•«  Mlwouri ;  mtgi  t 
>  walk  on  •how  t  Ufhnwk  cUy  j  Rim  Mencry;  Htetm.boat 
■Un !  fl  A<^  b«n  1  LtainfUm »  BtMmJMMt  dkMtar  $  Ub«ty  i 
HavalMoliMiui* »  »*d«  to  Caatotmenl  Laavwiwortb  \  unwiaf 
pMftaMkJiMMl  C»T«T«i  oomimniio  llwir  joarneyt  fiM  •■• 
euayoiMti  Iowa  IndiaMi  Btaekmako  b  <I«|  Nodaway  riwi 
■k  J  eiwM  U»  Hoahnakotaiia  J  Rich  toH  J  rapM  tha  of  Ui«  ■orth 
IniMii  of  Na^nalMteBa  |  mod*  of  I Wof  I  Momda  of  Iba  waal  i 
lUwMhwoMrit  BoBwwai  Miaiiawariw.  •       • 

CHAFTSa  IIL 
CoiitiBi»»B«i*»Co«iieUBlttl&i  lotweaUiifWwwyi  Indlwawi. 
fliity  I  InfiwmaUon  obtaln«id  about  Mvwal  Indian  tiibaa  {  Spta, 
■odUiCbolorai  wlwUwOhtof  kUtodj  l~wlWta»wo  f« Uio 
IhMfc  Hnia  1  itontt  of  rain {  hmrj  tkundn  i»on»»  BIkkom 
rbw.  Uia  c*Mitty  •wwrf  J  LwifaFofkof  Uio  Platto  {  mammt 
af«M»a^i»t»B»gA»,P»wn€aCWofj  India*  fcMUnf  { fewth 
of  My  {  Mmm.  Oonbw  aad  AlUat  ikmubw  Haim;  In41w 
OnaoiMitaiefbotaofdnnkMUMMt  WwofaraUlMBakajbof. 


KM 


IMI 


mmitmmim 


xii 


OOKTBrM. 


fklo  M«B  s  j^mirie  hone^y ;  forki  aT  Jm  Pial't« ;  wtnt  cT  wood ; 
miAneM  ofantelopea;  eliroats;  thouMnd*  of  buCUo  i  Iwdgwt ; 
pnlrie  dog ;  intenctiof  Uuffl ;  old  iMtie ;  Um  ohimncy,  or  bea. 
oon ;  AB  alknn ;  OgallaUah  ladiani,  their  lodgo* ;  Blaok  Hi!la. 


4S 


CHAFTEE  IV. 
Blabk  HUla  ■,  day  of  iadnlganeo ;  bnflUo  dance  (  the  dMira  of  !■• 
diant  for  inatracUon ;  mat  the  ohieft  in  cwmeil;  re.4<0Bsmeneed 
our  Journey  for  rendeirona ;  antliraoite  eoal ;  apeoioa  of  worm- 
wood; Red  Bui* :  traoea  of  griasly  bean;  giwiogy ;  Book  la. 
dependenee  ;  Rooky  Monntaina  ;  perpAnal  anow  ;  vaUay 
throngh  the mountalnn ;  "thonder  apiritiT  gone;  an  alarsir 
watera  of  the  Colora.*o.  .       .        ........ 


C9 


CHAPTER  ▼. 
Arrive  at  rendexroua ;  trappera  and  huute/a;  fonr  Indian  nationa; 
Flathead*  and  Nei  Perc^  no  leaaon  why  so  called ;  aurgleal 
<^erationa;  an  intorriew  with  the  Flathead  and  Net  ~  ./«d 
ohiofa ;  their  anxiety  for  religioua  inatruotioa ;  return  of  Doct. 
WhitnuB ;  Sboriioneo  and  Utawa ;  monntai^Iift.        .       .    76 


CHAPTfiRVI. 

Fart  with  my  aaaeeiaia :  arriTO  at  head  watervof  the  ColoBbia ;. 
kindnev  of  the  ladiaaa )  narrow  defilo ;  goiAify  ;,.lB«kiMMF» 
^ilei  wild  flax;  tnpperagooatoB  abiut»  aMMnteia  proa- 
poet;  TroiaTetona;  daag^  fiwm  ai&ighted  baflUo;  Pierra'a 
Bole :  Voloanie  ehaam ;  ehildrea  on  hoiaebaok ;  intereatiag 

'  woi^p  with  the  Indiana  i  imrial  of  a  dbild;  aoaieity  of  Ibod; 
a  timely  aupply ;  Salami  rt^cr ;  expeeted  battle ; ,  gealogfaa? 
ohaatfRtioBa ;  aoeae  of  BM«miaf •  •    ^ 

.  ^si.^;  .  -CKAFTES  VIl. 
Sabftiii  rtWt  'tidmrit-adt;  ehlmney ;  foreet  ti«aa»  mw  mpMim 
of  pioe;  geology;  aolphw  Itdw;  ft  rare  aaimal;  B«w»pa<taa 
of  aqtiirrela  and  pheaaMita ;  eame  to  the  Itowia  brandi  «f  th*  0«> 
litmUa;  ftrrymair;  Baaaltie  Ibnaatioa;  fine  eUmalc}  wriva 
at  WaOhWalht.     .       .       .       ...      V       .      -^  IM 


iililliieMr«tt'»lliili!ia>l 


wknt&Twood; 
SUoslwdgwi; 
imnty,  or  bea^ 
I  BlMk  WOm.     43 


Iw  denre  of  la- 
ro-roBsnoionoM 
•cioaofwonB- 
9g7 1  Book  In. 
•now ;  Tftltoy 
«;  an  tluiiU 
.       .        ..   « 


[udian  nations] 
ailed ;  furgieal 

jtd  Net   '  .rt4 
return  of  Doct. 

ift.      .     ,  n 


thoColunbia:. 

mooatcin  pn»- 
■ftkt  n»Tnfii 
ski  interaotiaf 
luoitjroflbod} 
lle;,|MlofiDn) 


kl;  BowapottiM 
ranohoftk«0«> 
olunate;  nrri«« 
.       .       .115 


TUt. 

I>aaerir(iai  of  Walb  Walln;  tku  yikltimtmait  oftho  ladiaaa 
by  tka  BodMMi  Bay  Company  s  IwTo  Walla  Walk  fiw  fcrt  Va>. 
•ouTor;  iMimorraiatatar;  rapidas  inUodnotlomotheCaynaa 
Indiana;  mowing  proapaota;  k»«rapWajVotoauioB»o«nlaiaaj 
trial  of  Indian  gonoruaity  j  Miital  at  tha  fUla  of  tho  CotnmUn 
rivart  rooainf  ofteta of  oraUxy  i  LaDaOao;  Boalaa  tradiaff 
oompany:  nmarkaUa  anbaUasoa;  Caaoadm;  Chanooka  an 
•Jm  FUUieada  and  Ne«  Parc<» ;  danfreroua  rapida  j  Indian  bo. 
ijinf  plaoea ;  Pillar  raok  i  interMtiag  waterfall  j  aea  fowl ; 
ariiva  at  Fort  Vanoooyar. *** 

CHAPTER  DC.  - 

Doaeription  of  Fort  Vanoonwr ;  dapartwa  for  Fort  Gaarge  and 
noath  of  the  CohunUa ;  moutha  of  the  Multnomah  { Wkppatoo 
Idand  ;  May  Dtero  j  Coffin  Oook  ;  CowaliU  rirw';  IndiaE '  - 
ftiewMiip ;  Pacific  ooean ;  Ormy^  bay ;  Aatorla.    .       .       .  14* 

CBAPT^X. 

Daaerfptlon  or»ortOaorga».«aaBtkorthoColamhin»  daagawma 
bar;  BMmntaiaoaaooart;n<ieti<M  of  timber  t  good  loeatiaa  te 
amiaiiowuy  atati«B{oantiaaadraiaas  daaaa  ftf  mla  tant- 
alMl U* wuMa down  1h» Wy i  ^^««r «# tta «oMi  Awrten at 
tl»iBln*Wof  ftaCk*MiAb;iWpW«lMBMkdA«io;  Mf 
tMMiai  Ihiifafeii  InroMajmiki  nOaoUaBai  wator  *«lt 
latow  to  Ftel  Vtooawar  rtllt  Wt««  X«»«»  *«w  tfca  daad  J 

ladiuUBduia.     ...  •       •  •  ^^ 

CPATTliltja. 

BMiav«i|afni^fiBpi«i)>Ml>J«>»V  wpttaWilb-irtl.;  wniit 

.^  l^as  tiM  peW^ ibom  I  Ma  i  aattbment  oa  tha  WincMatta  t 

iHatiMM  mimkB ;  iftdaorfo ;  voyafe  down  tha  liter ;  Kaapi.. 

UX^  of  Wanaibai  aoaalnafiaa  6i  Ida  bonae;  Fort  V/Uliam 

o>  Mm  WippMoo ?ilaad  -aatwiiaBht  tMtat  fef  aidant aphttat 

a- wj^Hnitot  Fort  VaaooBfwr.  •       •       •  ** 


immiiwfiii'iiii  I  will 


mmmtmmmmmmm 


(xuixm  xiL 

SmiM  w  th«  SaUwUi ;  oUlMlM  itt  ilM  gotH  t  AMM'^'^i^ 
earn ;  u«in«r  ofupanilinr  tfiat  t  dtMriplka  of  VMiMnTWl  rtw 
tad  flunniBf  wtobliihiiKnt  t  g»rd«i  pwdttotfqM  >  huafcw  >  Qgw- 
■i«i«e;  peltriM;  qpiUm  «f  tho  HnAna  Bay  CvnpMy  i  «Mt^ 
of  life  i  htriMiipa  of  a  hoata^  tiA  |  their  perMveraaM  i  Chile, 
tlui  prinelpk ;  worldly  prineipb. IM 


CHAFTBIXIII. 

Indian  popnlatioat  diMaiM ;  nortallt;  t  aUr(b«tad  to  enMirMlHi 
«r  the  MtUt  Indiana  dartitata  af  nadieal  teieaoai  h<sUd«]rat 
owtooM  at  hooa ;  onatoma  of  tha  Indiab* ;  raacaihlaaoe  to  Jaw. 
iah  oaatoma  in  panishmant;  narrlaga  oontraatai  oottdltioB  of 
tha  firnalca ;  alaTCry ;  dividoaa  into  trlbea ;  qm  point  of  diaoia- 
ilarityt  laafoaga.  .....•••  IM 


OHAPTBIXIV. 
Tha  varioOa  aninab  beyoad  the  Mooatolm. 


Ml 


OBAFTlRrr. 

Fiahi  daocripUoaafaalMa«|  aalaaa lAwy | 
drologyiahnhba^l  BotetHfo  nata  t  fatiwphf 
valieja;  piaiaa)  ftcaala;  rirmi  aaUt 


.«lf 


Charaetar  and  ooBditlan  of  tha  MliM  i  IcAwM  af  tha  pkiM  t 
«kair  peraona :  droail  wMltht  kahili  i  jphjiiaalakMMlir  I  naa 

ote^jioB;  Ofrfrnliitoa;  wafaiVtoMI  M«nl 
pawthieiia ;  nwaatoa  mm. 


I'.- 


OHAPTBRXVII. 

Tha  IndioBa  af  tha  la««r  aonkby. 


f^^i^l^i^^Mm^ 


timuti 


Miiiii 


lllipll 


Manraritte 
unlMriOMk 
ttayi  WH*) 
mm;  Oirie. 


.  181 


»MllH«tlMI 

ni  bdUhqrct 
luioetoJcw. 
ooMUtioB«r 
latofiliMiBk 


IM 


.       .       .Ml 


thpltgjr  1 4Mb 
l«fMmtain» 

.      <4tfl 


rihipUMt 


v.;         ^.      ,..J'. 


•  «  • 


I  mmiii.  yiw>ilil>i'Mi"iw"wii .  ■■n.l'W'.mwfUJ.'  i" 


iiiimiii.i»]iiiiiiii>w»fmwwri "  •mmmn' 


N.^iik^ ■  WM'^U 


wsTumu 


«▼ 


CMWWMtiMi  with  MlBtdUfMt  IndlMii  MMting  with  UM»m  > 
mrij  aad  mlM  mhob  i  La  Dallw  Indienat  their  uuia^to 
iMciT*  th«  f<Mp«l;  Kootka  hoauaing  Mfd  (  aumbar  aa4  kaa> 
tiaaoTthaladiaaalathalowcraoitatiyi  Ia4iaaa  of  tba  aottib  { 
tha  agitalad  qotatkia ;  aotUaiiaMa. MO 

CHAPTBft  XDL 
DapaitBM  for  tha  a|for  oooatiyi  AaMriaaa  haatarai  gadogy  at 
tiM  Caan4ao ;  Iwliaii  hoaaaty ;  aacaya  ia  a  dasgnataa  gak ; 
tha  fhBa  a  ftvaraUa  laaatfoa  ftr  a  adaaloaaiy  atattoa  {  tia<» 
■yigathyt  ftmhhiii  ia<lam ;  anhral  lU  Walla  W^na  i  faMiir. 
mUtag  aaaoliBg  of  ladiaaa ;  ^ppactoaitjr  to  giva  tkiaa  r^^oaa 
laatimtion  {  a  walk ;  tha  wtritJeaa  saalitj  of  prairia  gnm.   .971 


oiUFrraixx. 

Stmmf  tatha  Was  Wtnt  eamftfi  fluMral  of  a  ohiid; 
MflMiy;  wanUpoBthaSahhatht  rotnnitaWaliaWalhM** 
4«*7  •'tka  Iiadiaaat  baitfa  gnprti  pwaflaa  If  liiihhi j 


•iliHa  ladhMi  FlKviilMtllniriJ 
m  dM  f laUa  i  MtefriM^}  ipokite  «aa4i  aai  < 
lattHi  ftwy  t  ^lalwii  faflif  t  ywilat  i  uliaalu  lai  IwIMm  tm. 
mkxO^i  w«wM> nPJA^a  i|<hrtnr  Mm  itvar  valtarr;  ar. 
liial  M  VaMtMrtia  1 4HM^Ki«B«'^  I'Ma  t  iMfwCaltaate 
•Mll^tBNi|Ba  (  a  waoiahi  of  httiMa  t  Ofwid  CmM,  m  «U 
haa<ftha(rrihiiiHn<MBWHta»iwMttiit  LoacnfUa)  w-^ 

■  iipartJW^.'Wi«a*,;ii*-,^.- ■".  ;    .      •  ■•    .  --i-'-i:! 

OBAft^  XZU. 

Aaunniyaf  dM  bdhaaaf  thaUffareonatry;  aaaMeof  tha 
Urijii.  tlwli  TatatiwMi  ■ad  imwlian  i  Ihtt  Till-  Trt'-  *-  f-' 


osArnatkxv. 

]>•yut^teaH•«l4»llil4ilii•t<*Hi«U•ltl»U«Mb(W«^ 
>  I  iiiuilpim  «f  mtuMm  t  itWmd  1 1 
iiil,iiul  ||iiil>iilTr'  t  ti^awbt  f*NtaacatilMfaity«f  tt» 

K  4wnMa<irp«ff«l«tiai>:  i»4UrMfotMk)M;  imifft 
Mti«rttj  dMil^MlMili  ■•iiieiiir.iifdt  hnytos  plM««» 

,      caunJOiiBPn,  -is*,?, 

II  tiiif  tmiipHiinflRddi  tmrntam^'^ 


iiVirtiiiBflWiiiifMitiWiiiliMiltlM'BMirWIIWWWlMi^^ 


.       .       .  tlS 


iMnriMfal 


t 


iflkiiitMB 


•  • 


MS 


wiiWi 


wniiip  wnm  w  ^HPPWWPWWiww  m"-  'M-ii^  w  ■ »  jj 


''■■-•  -.  i 


FARKBJt'S  TO0R. 


0H4Pi«ll. 


fesMS'" 


mm 


^^^^\r 


TiMt  ^MkmltlM  umI  dMigvn  would  to  iMidbat  to  •  isor. 
my  tluoagh  •  ooimtiy  of  Mioh  oitont,  unlalMbhod  Motf( 
hf  WMdoriiw  Unda  of  InAhm,  whon  no  prorWoiM  oovkl 
bo  oblaiMd  bMideo  unooitalo  gMM,  oouM  nol  bo  doablo4. 
It  WM  not  0  oonorioiiiiiwr  of  OMhiaalMi  oouineo,  or  ki^ 
fmaoo  to  Mflbrii^,  or  tho  lovo  of  rmimioo,  wMoh  ftjtod  my 
fvafomi  but  hwMdMimportuMO  of  tho  objoot.    Althoogb 
h  WM  poinfttl  to  bU  wUoa  to  fiunily  Mid  fHond%  imoppiiMd 
of  tho  ovonta  of  tho  Aitufe,  yot  oommittiiig  all  to  te  gui. 
donoo  ud  fwotoeUoa  ol  u  alUwioo  ProrkUaoo,  tho  ontw. 
priH  WM  uadoitokoa  without  nlaotonoo,  oa  tho  14A  of 
lfMah,lSa6.    PiuMiB8tbojoumoybythowoy4»fB«iAlo 
MdBiio,lMri«od«tPillibargboathotwMtj.ftfth.    Vbo 
tatomatag dktMHo to«t.  Loaio,  tkroaghtho  gmA  rtXUy 
of  tho  wort,  imi  loot  miioh  oftto  novohy,  aol  hMi  prrHouily 
pMwd  ovar  il»  oaAJa^iiMohoditMMid  tooxoitothttde. 
gioo  of  iotoNiklB^fto  ooramuaitjr,  with  wMdh  k  woo  rogwd- 
od  bolMO  (ho  Bunorooi  daoorlpfioM  of  tho  toariA  ond  timv. 
dkor  iMd  TCBdond  ito  gonetol  ftoturoo  flunUlar.    Only  « 
fuda§  notioo,  thoiotuo,  wfll  bo  givon. 

LoaTlag  PitlAaigh,  wMdi,  firomlto  midtipUed  monufce. 
aoy  bo  itylod  (he  Binniiigfaun  of  AmofkM,  I  took 
I  ia  <ho  ilMugB.boot  Ofakom,  tbt  Canolmuui,  font  hvi- 
M  oad-llfty  mfloo  dfatant,  by  tho  rWor.    Tho  Nosoiy  oT 
tho  Ohlo^  M  h  puniiMitimoMidoriBgooofie  to  thoMWo. 
■^  paoeoti  a  noot  beoutiftil  yaikty  of  femtm  and  oahl- 
iMid  Aalda,  and  (bmfiih&ig  TillaeM.    Cte  the  SBlh,  wo  ar. 
ihadatCinofe  «tf.    ThooleaaibBatonthatdaywaoditoo. 
viMd  to  bo  on  fifo  in  the  hold,  ia  whkb  a  laige  qoantity  of 
•MBbMlIblogoodewaNdaimitod.  ThiiOMatodgraatalani. 
Kb  wymaiig  head  wind  blow  tho  flra  from  the  ftimaoo  down 
dw  hatohway,  whiah,  after  removiag  HBM  foode,  had  boon 


Miiiiiiiliiiiip 


ilMbhad  Motrl 
novtaiona  oovld 
Mlba  dovted. 
unig*,  or  iadUC 
whioh  ftjwd  my 
^.  AIUMmgk 
iMk,  iin«|ipriMd 
I  all  to  dM  gui- 

MMO,  tlM«BtW> 

otttlM  14th  or 
imyofBtiflUo 

ho  gfwit  troHoy 
IhMlpmHoiMly 
laozoilothtt^ 
ih  k  woo  rogwA- 
toaribt  ana  timv. 
oiUiar.    Only  a 


ItipUedi 
Amofioo,  I  laok 
limiBti,  fimr  bm- 
Tho  KMBory  oT 
roB  to  thoMlMli 
IbrMimoadevhi- 
I  the  aeih,  wo  or- 
MttdaywoodiMo. 
loigeqaantityor 
Mtodgraotaloni. 
thoftimaoodoiMi 
I  gooot^  nd  hooa 


u  11  .   ml  miliiilllii  ,  ..I.    II I    .  I     I     I  a^JuailWUlllllMI-lMWim  .11 III.  Ill    Ij 


!• 


■HyahwuiJhmlyi 
WaMo  thi  ihoro.  u4  M  MOMT  woo  k  |olMi,i 
«Mo  0  gMonl  rath  *r  mktf.    flano  o#  tho 

tMW  out  Hull  luilMi  wii  niT-j  ''T"*  * —  **^ ' 
4aoklotholMi4.  Tho  tuajhoworar,  woo  ••>*»*,  Mi  whh 
•onaMarabio  dIAoulty  wo  dioMgafod  tho  boot  ftooa  IM 
giouMlad  pciMoa,  and  firoai  tho  tiMB  MMif -vhiob  it  WM 
awtjig'*^,  and  we  woio  agda  tiBdar  way. 

OfaMiKBail  iMA  hurgo  oity  Ibr  a  oovntry  aa  now,  ndftoBi 
ka  natiiio  appaaiMMa  wmUd  hardly  bo  thavghl  la  hvro 
boaa  tho  giwwth  of  oaiv  half  a  OMlofy.  Ita  piflatlaa, 
M^oaad  of  oolgnato  ftooi  Now  BHlMd,  tho  Middle  ud 
•ano  of  tho  aaotham  aMMo,  oad  flNM  vailoM  pwrta  «r  B«. 
fopo,  io  oBBaafoaady  aoi  »afy  hoaaqpaaoBO  tokaohaiaiiw. 
Ita iohoolo  aid  hutfuiliaaa  af  Utamtwa,  ftimin  mMh  fer 

land  wUg»*  ta  thia  lannrthtf 
i  of  oar  gnwiag  oomkry .  t 

Haia  I  aaohaigad  lay  akaatka  «n  boatd  d»  Ohhaa,  ft* 
tho  ChiM,  OitMhi  lU^MMa,  ftr  It.  Uda^  whiak,  bf  waiar 
tedaboBdiadaadiiMQrBriloa  AooiOhMlaMkL  .Qa  tho 
Mth,  «•  pawid  UaHvilH  MW.  «Ufii.ait«a  Mli  «C  *• 
Ohtok  t««atp4im«lMiki  ha%k^  aad'pttMMa  bjr  koataaily 
kih%|iwaiw,abo«ttwoaNa(ttahitha9«Bt.  IbwwAo 
aapaMO  aaidiligr  or  paMgo  aiwMd  *a  MH  a  oiMl  hao. 
baaa  oaMiniflla*«ith»aonifciida  oflha  ifm,  tw»  nttai  i» 
la^th,  flty  *al  wida,  aad  fci«r  *««  daa^ 

Thowalarbahighlgh,i«afa-dl««»«l»WI*  »  «»- 
asabUMwaoaM.  IlMwaltr about LwikivlBoawvaaatowly 
aad  mtUrl  bat  at  y««  aypaoadi  tho  Mk  k 
tavolootqrMidro*^'  T«iao«*idFo«Mdfi»< 
flittftia  eafiMk^  aad  yoa  am  aaafcnM  l» 
yaw  yilotaaia  watt  akilMbithiiryiiftariPB     TavMiat 


mmtsje 


W  THi  oMio  ttiTBB— 4nilD  AifD  tiirrvorr. 

flMM  td  atm  If  th«y  betray  tmy  hur ;  jroa  And,  th«t  whl!« 
thvfr  attoMion  fa  filed,  theh  ooMntenuioet  *ra  Mrane.  Tour 
Hmn  gtve  w»y  to  emotloM  of  the  ■ubliine.  The  bo«t  thoots 
ItfnhttA  with  aimxlng  feroe  and  Telodty,  and  very  eoon 
you  And  youmlf  gliding  along  lit  6ie  wide-tpread  <»lm 


The  (Mt  ia  a  noble  Hver,  aflhrding  in  iu  whole  oourae 
romantio  and  beautiftil  proapects.  It  flow»  ia  a  smooth  and 
may  oarrent,  and  ia  divenMed  on  every  aid*  «rith  rich  bot- 
tom land,  rolling  Mlla,  and  preoipitoua  blaflb.  Theee  hilla 
and  bloflb,  in  many  plaoee,  rise  abruptly  fVom  the  shore  of 
Al»  rfffer,  In  other  plaoee  they  reoede  some  Miles,  but  in 
a¥Mry'p«rt  are  in  view ;  and  ao  varied  is  thli  scenery,  that 
tilM»ii«evr«arf«eatoaaiaed  by  monotony.  No  where  has 
fhe  ktMlof  indattry  be«a  wantii^  to  add  intereet  in  paai- 
k^  tkroagki  thi»put  of  the  greait  w«atem  valley.  Planna, 
and  towns,  and  Villages,  exhAft  HU  atfvantafe  that  haa  been 
lakefl  of  due  eMuberanee  of  the  soil.  The  muif  tftHUtao. 
vlaf ,  paatlig'  ataatM-boat*  show  iShmt  Imfustry  Airniahea'  the 
anaaM  of  irkl»«(teoded  and  prottidtle  coaomeroe.  The 
■trlUi^  dlftnoee  ia  fhe  taale  and  halrtta  of  ike  people  In- 
lilMUBg  th«  two^idea  of  Hm  ifvar,  ««•  hara  very  appamttt. 
Upo«  the  Ohio  Mt,  Aa  luWa  and  tfeatly  pdated  dwalllagw 
aw  i»  the  Hmi'  BngkuidalyH  wMtaon  fha  Keatnoky  sM», 
aoanttoad  hma  aad  dwva,  you  seaihe  large  log  hotnaa  of  the 
plantera  in  a  grade  of  aiaMiMtiua  eoaaldaMii%^  above  the 
kf  oiftina  of  dNfr  alavea,  by  #hiah  fhay  are  nanoanded, 
yat  jog  heasaa  aHM.  Thoae  are  botlt  two  atoriec  h%h,  vrith 
a  wide  airy  hall  thieagh  the  0Mitt«,  oneof  thei  lowar  rodMa 
bafeigliMrpMlat,  ttdfiha  atter  aervea  the  aamrat  puifmaa 
offtBiMMrfrBleapiBg  and  eating  room.  Open,  firtnk  hoi- 
pitriity  aharaotarisav  tha  Kentuokiaa,  wUoh  li  ^9Vktg  (a 


MiiMiiiiiili 


nnr> 

nd,  that  white 
»rant.  Your 
lie  boat  ahoots 
iiul  wry  noon 
B-«prMul  <mlni 

I  whole  oouree 
I  a  ■mooUi  end 
wi(h  rich  hot- 
r '  Theee  hill* 
ft  die  diore  of 

Milflfl,  but  in 
I  eoenery,  that 
No  where  htH 
(ereet  in  paai- 
Ilejr.  Plamw, 
I  that  haa  been 
lany  awift-mo. 

ftiniahee  the 
imerae.  The 
the  people  in- 
fef]^  appatwit. 
lBt«ddw«llhi|ii 
Keatnoky  aMe, 
{hooaMofthe 
%  «bo*B  the 
fa  uuiTfounded, 
nrieah^,with 

rrwal  pttifMea 
M,  frtnk  hoi- 
H  jileariDg  to 


rmm 


mim 


txamxvMk  or'Muo  aho  Hiaataairri.  tt 

•  etrai^er.  I  oArad  a  lady  in  one  of  tfieee  laanaiow 
KMBe  traota,  whioh  aha  at  ftrat  declined  r»ith  the  enquiry. 
"Do  you  think  we  are  heathenf"  "No,  madami  b«t 
traota  contain  muoh  that  is  intereating  to  all  ulaaeaa 
of  people,  and  after  they  are  raad,  oan  be  olroulalad 
aoMng  thooe  who  may  not  be  well  eupplied  with  booka." 
I  aaw  but  very  fcw  houaea  of  werabip,  except  in  villa- 
fM. 

On  the  ilrat  of  April  we  paaaed  out  of  the  watera  of  the 
Ohio  into  thoee  of  the  Bfiaaiadppi.  The  Ohio  epreada  ou« 
into  a  narrow  aea  and  meet*  the  Miaaiaaippi  in  the  aame 
hnok.  Both  appear  to  expand  themaelTee  Into  their  moet 
pajeatki  fbnna,  ae  though  each  waa  makteg  an  eftrt  to 
claim  the  aupeiioiity ;  and  whan  joined,  they  more  en  with 
united  grandeur.  We  ehould  expect,  at  the  conAMnce  of 
iMce  two  rhwa,  to  find  a  buaineea-going  village,  but  inrtead 
«f  auoh  a  place,  there  ia  only  a  whiekey-aelling  tavern,  aur. 
rounded  1^  a  fiw  miaeraUe  hnta. 

To-day,  a  boy  ten  or  twelve  yean  dd,  plnyhig  about  >thc 
Maohinaiy  of  the  boat,  waa  caught  In  U  by  tlM  I«g<  and  bad 
ha  not  been  fanmediatriy  aeiaal  and  axtrlbntad  hy>«w« 
Mnndiag  by,  muat  have  been  dbrawn  wholly  in  and  < 
topiaoaa.  The  bonaa  w«i«  net  biokan,  but  th»  calf  of  the 
leg  waa  diHiaaaiagly  mangled.  ThMa  baiAg  no-  MUgaaa 
on  board,  I  eOMalad  in  draaaing  hie  woumIb. 

Paaaed,  on  tha  aecond,  Point  Giraidoa»  My  nUaa  above 

the  motMh  of  tha  Ohio.    It  ia  pleaaantty  aitaatad  <pon  ». 

MuiT  on  dia  weet  aide  of  tha  MiaaMppiy    U  haa  a  fine 

praapeot  (tf  die  river,  and  might,  under  the  hand  of  indna* 

try,  baeona  a  deeiiaUe  place;  but  tha  French  OitfaoUoa- 

u«  nol  an  emarpriaing  people,  and  it  haa  the  appearanoa  of 

decay.    Wft  moved  but  elowly  againat  the  wind  and  currentf 

8* 


TIm  •«•  of  lh»  prairiM  oomkiiji  orw  Um  Ualh,  i 
•  tea  MMM  this  «T«aiiig.  ThoM  biufh  mn  two  hoadnd 
CmI  higk,  Md  ntond  ona  or  two  milM  along  the  rhrw.  At 
a  ooMidorabU  dkteiuMi  ihoy  appMrod  liko  aa  aiwniaaMd 
eity,  but  aa  w«  approaohed  and  bad  a  aaarar  riaw,  tba  il- 
luaton  was  diMipat«i.  Th«  flnw  bad  advatuMd  naariy  ovar 
tba  bluflb,  and  curtaia«l  them  with  a  inoderataly  aaoMidiag 
blasa,  drawn  up  on  tba  blulTa  and  let  down  In  foatoom  ha 
tlN  MvkuM ;  and  the  omintarpMtt  raflaotad  frnn  tba  mooth 
walara  of  tho  broad  Miad«tp^,  addad  nraob  to  tba  baMiy 
and  grandaur  of  tba  proapeot. 

Wa  rnvla  a  abort  atay  en  the  third,  at  the  laadlag  of  St. 
Oamevteve.  The  vUkiga  ia  aituated  a  mile  bank  from  the 
river  on  the  weal  able,  and  ia  inhaUtad  almort  entirely  by 
Prenoh,  who  are  alow  to  depart  from  the  ouatema  aAd  man. 
neiB  eelaUiahed  hy  their  feiefMheia,  who  have  *oag  tinea 
paaaedaway.  To  adopt  new  impvoirenieubiwenld  ben  eMf 
next  to  giving  up  their  oathoUo  nlifion  and  tnndngiaMet. 
It  ia  nauiataf  to  aee  the  manner  in  whieh  they  yoke  their 
anen,nadlolennithefeaaoBtheyaaaignfcraodohig.  The 
yehe  to  oonpoaed  of  a  atnkigli  piece  ef  wood,  iMMoed  to  the 
hnek Me ofthehdnM by atrafenT leather.  TheyMy.that 
ia  tUa  wny,  Ihey  anve  dw  whole  power  of  the  anlmalf  Imt 
thm  the  yokei  bnred  to  tfie  ne^,  and  drawn  baek  to  the 
abonlder,  loaaa  thapoarer  of  die  head  and  aeek.  Tbabr  ma* 
sotrinf  Mfty  ntUy  thMaaehree,  bnt  waaM  nil  aonvinee  the 
thofOi^^  New  England  flumer. 

«,  Vo^r  HiWHilaaewni  appeaiedia  aight,  whkih  ia  aituated 
ondM  iMst  aide  of  the  river,  tUr^4hre  milea  hel^  St  Lonia. 
h  ia  alMMl  eavfrntaded  by  high  preoipitaw  httia,  haviag 
oiUy  a  nanww  apnea  Ibr  a  Tillage.  ThMearaaavaralahot. 
towera,  plaead  on  the  brtak  of  high  blufla,  in  wfaioh  oon. 


M>«M«iii»p«^kpaHiip 


)  twn  hoMlnd 
Um  rhrw.  At 
m  fltttmiMMd 
r  vi«w,  tiM  tW 

in  fMloom  igi 
mm  thannooth 

iMdIag  of  Bl 
btokfimn  tht 
Mt  Mtiraly  hf 
tteowwhdi 
k««  Pong 

turniagfaiidbi. 
bay  jrok*  thair 
»ittb^.    TiM 

(fctlMMdtotlM 

IWjrM^itlMt 
iMftnfandif  Imt 
m  bMk  to  tiM 
>k.  TlwIriM. 
•I  aoBvlaM  tiba 

rkMibiitttatod 
bal^StLMris. 

Mhttl^lMTiag 

ira  MTwal  ■bat' 
i,inwfaioh 


>»>i"y 


■VMISM 


MiMUabuduMikdoiM.    LMg«q«iuiUlbHiorU»il,bnNighl 
faoai  tiM  miM*.  mtm  wM  tod  wrriwl  to  diMtni  m»rk«to. 

In  tmv«lUifl  upoit  Umms  waton,  U  i»  |»iaAil  to  m*  h*W 
fcw  boolui  of  any  v»liw  th«»»  •!•  on  bowd  Dm  ■ft  boato 
SooM  oovaU  ftro  found,  but  tlM  moM  of  thMn  AM  of  a  Um» 

tkMB  ohnmotor.    TIwimmmU  of  Umm  who  navignto  lh«M 
liven  ni«  foing  to  tlM  jndgiMnt,  npurdl«w  of  lU  !•««•*■ 
•f  Utoir  ■ouk,  MMl  raoat  of  thMi  nra  dMlkuto  of  tiM  BibU. 
It  gn-o  gtmi  oBmoB  to  wauty,  thnl  wo  shoald  hn*«  loU- 
gtoiM  wonhir  in  tho  UdiM*  onbfai.  m  wo  did  by  invitotton. 
Compkiato  of  obtni^on  w«ro  mido  -•"  Obtruding  religion 
...«» pins*  ior  Mioh  tlOnga."    Bnt  profanity  »n4  £--:tlt 
Mnnoobtnuion;  thoynranlwnys  in  tikno  nnd  nlwnyt  is 
piMM.    C)»i«ti«B«nMMtkn«praUgioao«tofaigktMdhMr. 
li^  bm  thn  wiokMl  nwy  bn  «•  ofM  and  ofamMivn  ••  thny 
piaaao.    gur^'-f  fai  praoiiead  on  board  tlto  ■taam.beala 
j^MttdMaa  watoia  ton  vary  gnat  extant,  and  b  a  favavita^ 
aawaama*  with  thaaa  wiMaa  Mteda  an  not  anOoianay  anl- 

tivMadtotedaatiafaoikminnading.or  iatoHlf«il  ••^•^ 
•atian.  Tka  nninbai  of  Mank-laga  wko  Mnkn  gMobUng 
tMr  iNiainaaa  in  gmn*}  tbay  aia  adapH  in  tlwir  pnfta. 
rion,a»dtWiBaiw>wadapan*iirafymuahnpaolhakaldH 
indattpiioa,  ua  iadaaoyiaff  tiw  inwipariawMd. 

OBtl»aTaniaforiMfaiirth.«*Mii'^«t*t-  L'"*'^ 
lya  la  •  IlimrW^ng  bnilMaa  pkM>a»  liiniHi  «a  tba  w«* 
aidi  of  tha  Miiikaipp^  two  lumdrad  nilaaahovn  tito  nmitli 
oftiw  Olda,aa«  twa«ly  niloa  babw  tlto  meHlb  of  tka  liln>  ^ 
•e«ii,  and  ia  ita  loanl  pMition  raaiwblae  Altenyt  N.Y. 
Tba  ^eoad  Miwnda  ht  absut  a  knlf  ntta  ten  tha  lifai. 
and  iiwapwdaoqtton^  widely  aartandad  pMi.  pMtly 
oawai  wWi  A«tl*«y»  ta«k  <rf  wfciA  •n  apan  pnlTlaa. 

Intbaputoof  tha  tinm built fagrlht Fiwoh, thi MiMta 


mt 


MM 


•r*  Mrraw.  This  majr  Iav*  Bma  to  •oflonmndat*  thdr 
^noiwMity  to)  b«  wmmaIiU,  l>y  Mi«bMn«  Ummi*  to  oonvvrM  from 
IIm  wMowa  MroM  th*  tlrMt*.  TIm  Fnmoh  popvUlkm. 
Willi  few  •xoAptkMw,  ara  RomM  CsUwIIcm,  aotad  ht  tteir 
bMfet«no«  tiMi  (liMl|MticNi.  OMnbilng  la  UmU  AMrorita 
•inuMmMit ;  ukI  th«y  iMva  houM«  davotod  to  Uik  ob)M«, 
with  ttfM  up,  Ilk*  thoM  of  whUkay  vradara.  A«  gMnblinc 
dk>M  not  imonmm  m—ith,  thara  ar*  but  fow  rieh,  «irt«rpiiiag 
■iMt  Mno«g  tlMi  FrMM)h  populttioo.  Dntpk— n—  b  not 
oemMoa.  aad  tlM  iMnpcmiM*  mum  !•  dokig  muok  to  ramev* 
what  Miala.  Eaitom  MOcrpriM  Mid  Influenoa  an  galaiaf 
f  ra«twl  ■faM*  th*  town  haa  baan  brought  undar  tha  lawa  of 
tha  Uailad  tftataa ;  and  a  mw  impulaa  ia  givan  to  buitnaw, 
TMaiathaoantnUpladaiathawaMfirtka  Air  trada,  whfaih 
koaniad  oo  by  tha  Amarioaa  Pur  Gompany  to  a  eonaidar< 
•hlaaxUtQW  aad  ala(MB«oh  bvaiMaa  ia  doM  ia  laad,  whioh 
laoMaiaad  al  Gkkma.  A|praat  aambar  of  Mmm  boala  and 
adiar  waiMT  omA,  of  varkNia  daaoriplkiM  Md  dwiinatiow,  am 
aaaahaiaaiallaaaaoMortkayaar.  Advaatarora,of  alnoit 
•««rjr  daaoviptloa  oTohwrMlar  aad  natioii,  aueh  aatrapparo. 
hwMMra,  miMia,  aad  anigfsaiat  oollaot  haia,  aa  a  Miftiag 
patet  ftoBwhaMa  to  g«»  faMa  tha  atUl  lur  waM,  mmaj  oT 
whom  aaak  aadiataUa  fertun*  awinff  tha  Booky  Momi. 
tdaa.  Tito  loeal  iitHatioB  af  thb  lows  b  aiMh,  that  It  will 
■njlwhtiilly  ooaHatia  lo  ha  ona  of  tha  tot  plaoaa  f>r  tiada 
in  tha  gimt^mltoy  ofiha  MMalppi.  Thana  ara  Sva 
hovaaa  of  WMriiip,  fwur  Praloataat  aojl  aaa  Raawi  CstheU«. 
Tha  CathoUa  oathadral  ia  buUt  of  a  inn  light  brown  aand. 
atooa,aiidiaaUifa*ip*aaif^btiildiikg.  ThaProtaMantin. 
fluaaoa  ia  iasraaafaif ,  aad  thar*  ara  hara  maay  aetiva,  davo. 
tad  Chriaiiana,  who  asait  a  aalutary  inflnanoa  upon  tha  tot^ 
and  vkktity .    Tha  population  ia  fiiUan  thouMsd. 


iSL 


mmm 


an 


mraodat*  thnf 
ooatmrm  (Wmi 
oh  pofvUlkMi, 
no(«d  for  tlNtlf 
tlMir  AMTorit* 
to  thk  ob)«H, 
AsgMnblinff 
ih,  wHarpWiig 
kouMM  k  aot 
nuoh  to  f«mov« 
«•  art  gftlntag 
l«r  tiM  Uw»  of 
'•o  to  burimWi 
ur  trado,  wKioh 
f  to  •  eoMidor- 
ia  iMd.  wMoh 
tMun-lmito  Mi4 


iron,  of  klaMMl 
MhMtmppBta, 
,M  «  ■Uftiag 
WMl,  HHuayof 
I  Rooky  Mom- 
Mh,  tittt  it  will 
taoMfcr  tmdo 
1mi»  sm  flvo 
MMHiCiltoUa. 
ht  wrovB  sumU 
wPntotlaiitin< 
iyMrtiTO»dovo> 
» upon  Um  W^m 


Dootor  Moroun  Whitman  hul  alrBaily  •rrtvwd  hore,  who 
l«  appoinliHl  hy  th«i  Amorlcan  n««r.l  of  Comml«lon«r«  for 
Foreign  Mlmic»nii  to  Im  my  M«wi«tn.     He  came  through 
the  central  partu  of  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illlnoii,  ami  arrived 
t  few  dayi  in^fon  me.     On  the  7th,  we  had  an  Intervlej* 
with  Ml.  Pontenelle.  who  takee  charge  of  the  caravan  eent 
o«l  hy  tho  American  Pur  Oomjiany.     The  caravan  prooe««J« 
a  ahort  dlitanoe  lieyond  the  Rooky  MoUntaina,  for  the  purpoec 
of  oarryfatg  out  gooda  for  the  Indian  trade,  and  auppliea  for 
tfioir  men  who  are  engaged  in  hunting  and  trapping ;  and 
retuma  with  the  ftini  which  they  have  uken  during  the 
year.     Tliere  are  about  three  hundred  men  oonaUotly  em- 
ployed in  and  about  the  mountaina,  and  more  than  aisty 
frho  conatltute  the  caravan.     With  a  much  leaa  numbar  it 
irould  be  omafo  to  perform  thia  journey,  aa  thero  are  hoa- 
tile  trfbea  of  Indians  on  the  way,  vix :  the  Ariokarae,  the 
Crowa,  and  Blackfeet     Having  obtained  permlarfon  of  the 
prindpal  aganta  of  tiM  oompuiy,  Mr.  Pontmelte  kindly  of 
fored  to  aooommodate  ua  with  auoh  advantagea  aa  Htiay  U 
•flbrded  in  hia  caravan.    Kndlng  It  neceaaary  to  leave  thia 
place  to^lay  ibr  Liberty,  which  la  one  of  tha  moat  weatem 
lowM  In  the  United  Btotea,  wa  were  very  buaily  amployed 
•i  iwaklng  preparation  for  tke  joumay,  and  In  oafttng  open 
•nd  Udding  flmswell  to  Chrlatian  Menda.     A  lira  Tut  night 
deatloy«d  a  Vary  large  livery  aUble,  in  which  we  loet  a 
hona,  MtddK  and  brfdk.    The  old  oathednl,  wWbh  waa 
need  for  a  atow-houae,  waa  also  burnt,  together  with  a  »ery 
hrgo  qtMmtity  of  crockery  which  it  contained. 


:«^aNSS.^S£'  k2'"3:^ 


•fmmmmmmmmmmmmiimmmummimimmm 


AcciMirr^ 


CHAPTER  n: 

Imre  St  Look  flw  Liberty— pMNf*  «p  tiM  MiMnari-auf»--«  walk 
OB  dMM-MlbrMB  dnjh-Vint  ■oeaery— ei>«m.bo«t  Si»m  8i»H 
bMo-Lwilton— Stem  boat  ^uUf-Uhmtr—VtinkM  ladlue 
—ride  to  Ceatoumeat  Leewwerth  em— iny  pnviBflieliHMI 
Canvea  eaanMBOo  tb«ir  jewney  tot  enoeMpamnt— low  InA' 
Mo— BleideBAke  Ulkh-Nodswey  liver-Blk— eieee  the  Neebuu 
WtMMt—Biaheeil  fifid  nee  of  the  north  branoh  ofKeehniheton* 
~arado  orirriBr-mwdK  oTthe  weel    eieee  the  MkMui-Bdie. 


At  fire  o'clock,  P.  M.  w«  went  on  board  the  •teun-boat 
St.  Charles,  Capt.  Shelloraat,  and  ascended  the  river  twenty 
miles ;  anchored  at  the  confluence  of  the  Missouri  and 
Bliasiesip|.i,  and  layby  for  the  night,  as  it  was  dangerous  to 
proceed,  on  aooount  of  the  many  nags  and  sand  ban  in 
the  IfisBouri.   • 

On  the  dghth,  inneeeding  ap  the  Miss&uri  by  raUter  slow 
pngress,  the  ftrst  stop  was  made  at  St.  Charles,  which  is 
twwDty  mike  above  the  confluence  of  this  river  with  the 
Missisiippi,  and  die  same  distance  nordi.west  fimn  St  Lonia. 
Ilk  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village,  upm  the  north  side 
of  the  river.  The  country  aroiuid  is  interesting,  and  the 
soil  of  superior  quality.  An  enterprising  Christian  popuhu 
tioB  would  make  this  ow  of  the  lopst  desinhle  pl>>ces  in 
theweM.  Soen.^fkrwAleft'tbeshpra,  aboysixyeanof 
age,  fell  overboard,  but,  from  die  swiftness  of  thn  eurrent, 
and  as  the  boat  was  under  ftiU  way,  thsre  was  no  qqiortu* 
nity  to  save  him.  He  was  seen  floadng  a  short  time,  but 
before  the  yawl  could  be  loooed  from  its  ftstening;  and 


•JBlKlfe*"*""--  -  -.  >- 


Moori    im*— •walk 

itty—NaTalMa  Ia4l>u 
!>{■(  pfoviBflialknt" 
MBpaMBt— Iowa  Indi. 
Ik— orwa  Um  Wntoi 
«neh  of  KtahsaboUiia 
H  tha  Mkraui-Bdlo- 


oard  the  steun-boftt 
led  tlie  river  twenty 
if  tKe  Minouri  and 
it  WM  dangeroiM  to 
I  and  aand  ban  in 

i&uriby  nUterilbw 
.  Charles,  which  ia 
thia  river  wMi  the 
ireet  firom  St  Looia. 
iipm  the  north  aide 
intereetiog,  and  the 
Dg  Chriatian  popala* 
deairalrie  pl^Hjaain 
I,  a  boy  MX  yean  of 
neee  of  thu  eonrent, 
in  was  no  qqiortu* 
g  a  short  time,  but 
\  its  ftstenhig;  and 


■■PHI  mf^mi'mmmmimm'^llim'llinfllWKf'W 


JBIfMSON  OITTi  wf 

manned,  he  sunk,  and  was  seen  no  mora.  His  mother,  a 
widow,  and  her  fiunily,  wera  ramoving  firom  Kentucky  to 
Franklin,  Mo.  The  mother  and  the  children  lamented 
greatly  and  loudly. 

Near  the  mkklle  of  the  day,  on  the  ninth,  we  struck  a 
snag  or  rook,  so  deep  beneath  the  turlnd  water,  that  we 
could  not  determine  which  it  was,  and  it  became  necessary 
to  npair  one  of  the  wheels  of  the  boat,  which  was  much 
injured.  This  afibrded  an  opportunity  to  go  on  shora. 
Several  of  my  fellow  voyagen  and  myself  ascended  one  of 
those  high  blufi,  which  fiequently  skirt  this  river.  This 
was  accomplished  by  olimlnng  on  our  hands  and  feet  up  an 
elevation  of  several  himdred  feet.  Hen  we  had  a  delight- 
ful view  of  the  surrounding  country,  with  its  intermingled 
prairie  and  wood  land,  its  cultivated  s|;<>t8,  and  its  hills  and 
dales.  But  in  attempting  to  raturn,  a  new  difficulty  inter* 
posed.  I  said  we  ascended  on  our  liands  and  feet— could 
we  ratum  in  the  same  way  ?  We  wera  compelled,  by  de- 
scending backwards,  to  use  much  caution,  and  letdng  our- 
selves down  by  the  grass,  or  sometimes  a  shrub  ov  tree,  and 
asajbrting  each  other,  we  caniD  safely  to  the  shora.  We  also 
visited  a  plaoe,  some  distance  below  this,  whera  Lewb  and 
Clarii  encamped  three  days,  the  state  of  the  river  being  such 
that  they  could  not  aaoend  with  their  batteaux.  Many  wild 
turkeys  wera  seen  along  upcn  the  uninhabited  shores.  On 
tb^  tenth,  our  boat  discharged  a  part  of  her  cargo  at  Port- 
land, a  small  newly  built  village.  A  fellow  passenger,  a 
merchant  of  this  place,  on  landing,  immediately  put  in  ra- 
quiskion  sMne  thirty  colored  men,  women,  and  ohildran,  who 
readily,  without  the  aid  of  horses  or  carts,  transferred  bis 
merohandiM  to  its  destination.  '^ - 

The  boat  stopped  on  the  lllh,  at  Jeflbrson  City,  the  cap- 


siKSfr' 


-r- 


niiii>iiiMiiiiiMi.^rifiiriniiiiifl'^ 


M 


BANS  urn* 


ital  oftlMttiU*,  aitiuaad  on  the  wuth  dd*  oftlM  rivar.  upon 
»  bigli  tmlweuo*, «  littl*  abov*  tb«  Onigc  river.  It  hM  • 
gimtiiMMJbraonmllapUKM.  Th*  Mt«  Imum  ia  of  » 
siM  whioh  would  be  deoent  for  •  waM  eMdemy }  aad  tht 
goTfitor's  JMHiee  would  do  rerjr  w«dl  for  a  oomnmi  flumer'a 
houM  in  Uie  oountrjr,  bui  ie  aotauob  aa  we  riiould  axpaot 
for  a  govemor  in  J^tmm  Citg.  But  Um  alaU  of  If  iMOuri 
ie  oompaiativaljr  new,  and  thie  plaoa  may  in  time  aupport 
ite  name. 

Sabbath,  the  ISth,  I  nmainad  in  n^  atate  room,  and  eS' 
deavored  to  obaerve  tlM  day  aooording  to  the  ooBunaiw|ni>a|. 

On  Monday  we  paaeed  Boonavillo  and  FianUin.  anall 
villagae,  which  bava  a  ooufttry  of  rich  land  around  then, 
and  when  it  ia  biought  under  good  cultivation,  they  muat 
riae  in  importance.  The  eoenery  up  thia  river  iaauAoiently 
diveiiifled  to  excite  intereat  and  to  ohami.  The  treee  along 
the  fhoroe  an  moatly  oak  and  ootton-wood,  with  aome  hao- 
berry  and  buolceye,  and  it  is  intereating  to  aee  how  eaail^ 
uid  how  deep  they  take  root  in  the  free  rich  aoil  along  the 
river.  Frequendy,  where  the  banks  are  washing  away,  die 
roots  of  the  treee  are  exposed  to  ftiU  view,  and  ganei^ly 
then  is  only  a  large  central  root  descending  ten  or  twelve 
feet,  with  small  onee  branching  out.  pieaenting  the  Appear, 
anpc  of  an  inverted  cone.  The  river  makes  nothing  of 
washing  away,  and  forming  islands.  Sand  ban  and  snags 
^n  BO  comipon,  that,  becoming  aocustomad  to  thun,  we 
hardly  think  of  danger. 

On  the  Uth,  we  found  the  sleam-boatSiam,  Captain  L.,  at 
Chariton,  on  board  of  which  the  St  Charlee  put  her  flraight 
and  passengers,  and  returned,  both  boate  ha^  so  t^, 
disohaiged  their  ft«ight,  that  one  could  proceed  with  the 
remainder.    When  under  way,  the  boat  ran  upon  a  aand 


»ftli«iivwriU|iOB 
river.  It  hM  • 
i\0  hmtm  is  of  • 
«d«nqrs  mi4Um 
oaaatucmtumtt** 
w  dhould  MpMt 
KAUof  MiMOuri 

In  tilM  MippCMtt 

ite  rooa»  tad  tn< 
le  ooBMn»iw|nwa|. 
1  FnnkUo,  Maall 
od  arouod  tbMDf 
ivatioD,  thay  mwt 
IverianiAoieatljr 
ThttTMi  along 
1,  with  wnM  liM- 
o  M*  how  OMil^ 
ioh  Mil  along  the 
raahiag  away,  the 
iw,  and  geneffdly 
ling  ten  or  twelve 
mtingtheiHNPMur. 
oaakes  notUng  of 
id  bare  and  nagB 
imd  to  tbaoi,  we 

am)Ca|i|ainL.,at 
iee  put  her  flraight 
Is  having  ao  flu^ 
piooeed  with  the 
ran.  upon  a  wnd 


I  f^  iniinim— »— wl«BII»IW!f<H 


A  OOMTtAtTa 


'M 


,?S"ii;J«|g!r~t- 


bar,  whkih  gave  It  a  midden  rhirl  about,  apparently  threat, 
ening  a  diaaeter,  but  the  quiokMod  of  whioh  the  bar  waa 
oompoeed,  lodh  waehed  away,  and  we  went  ahead  again. 
Running  aground  in  thia  river  is  a  very  diflbrent  thing  fWrni 
what  it  would  be  in  meet  waten ;  fbr  the  bars  are  so  gene, 
rally  formed  of  quicksand,  that  in  most  instances  the  current 
around  the  boat  sets  all  dear. 

Soon  alter  gettfaig  under  way,  on  the  10th,  we  ran  upon 
a  bar,  where  we  were  detained  two  and  a  half  hours,  and 
•0  ftequently  were  we  upon  these  obetruotions,  that  we  made 
<»(y  Ave  mOee  before  one  o'clock,  P.  M.  Called  at  Lex. 
ingtos.  a  village  pleasantly  iituated  one  mile  back  ftom  the 
landing,  and  enrrounded  by  a  line  oountry.  We  made  only 
about  ftfteen  miles  headway  to.day,  whiwh  is  eo  slow,  that  it 
would  have  been  ikr  more  pleasant  travelbug  by  land ;  and 
to  have  been  flree  from  imprisonment  with  shookhigly  pro. 
Ihne  swearers  and  gamblers,  most  of  whom  ai«  intemperate. 
,  It  was  neoeasary  to  spoid  the  nineteenth,  another  flaMtath, 
on  board  the  steam-boat.  Row  great  a  contrast  to  the  mu 
credneesof  the  day  when  it  is  enjoyed  in  the  Christian  fom. 
ily  dlrolo ;  or  in  the  sanctuary  wlwre  God  is  worriiiped  in 
the  great  ooi^regatlon  {  or  fat  the  quiet,  ttnofaitrtidve  sabbath 
sohool,  where  attentive  minds  sit  down  to  study  the  word  of 
Ged,  Aat  they  may  praotioe  Us  precepts,  and  where  the 
teadMra  #re  heard  expfahiing  and  enforcing  divine  truth 
upon  the  young  and  tender  oonsoienoe. 

As  we  passed  along,  I  saw  many  children  standing  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  thought  bow  benevolent  persons  at 
the  east  had  deeired  their  religious  faistrnotion,  and  how 
mueh  had  been  done  for  the  enterprise ;  but  it  had  fittled  to 
readi  theee.  I  also  reflected  on  die  examples  of  infidelity 
find  vice  around  them,  by  which  they  are  educated  for  dct 


■wiiii 


im 


iiiiiii 


•truotkn,  and  endeavond  to  Hk  th«  Gwat  Bene&otor  ol 
all,  to  do  that  i9r  them  which  It  wm  not  In  my  power  to  do. 
I  oontraatMl-  In  my  mind  the  diflerenoe  between  kindred 
eoole  in  Bweet  communion  in  the  eervice  of  God  to^iay,  and 
the  unrestraliM  wiokednen  of  ungodly  men,  which  my  eye* 
•nd  ear.  were  witneedng,  and  aaid,  when  will  the  kingdoma 
of  this  world  beoome  the  kingdoma  of  our  Lord  and  hiaChriat. 
AJMut  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  oafitain  and  hi*  men  ap- 
pearad  to  be  given  up  to  blind  mfiituatiaa.    The  Btam  waa 
a  new,  welUbuUt  boat,  had  imr  boUera,  and  it  waa  her  firet 
aeaaon.    Thay  appeawd  lo  K«a»d  no  bounda  in  raialag  and 
applyii«i»M««    Suoh  waa  the  power  under  which  the  boat 
laborad,  tWi  aka  mora  than  tremUad.    For  a  kng  time  I 
expwwad  aomadiiart.r,  and  looked  at  the  cap«i» ta.ee  4f  I 
could  diaaovar  any  an>ralMMMion  of  danger.    Ther©  waa 
BO  want  of  ayideiwa  that  thfw  waa  a  free  uae  of  aideit 
qiirita.    SbonthadiMMtereaiiM,  though  kaaasleoave  than 
I  had  ftaiwl;  the  main  ahaft,  which  waa  lane  and  made  of 
Iran,  bidia,  and  ftrther  progveaa  waa  impoaaible. 

Monday,  9Qth.    Theday  wasapontinwideavoringtQflnd 
•oaw  ramody  for  the  diMalar.  hot  all  to  »o  purpeaa. .  ft 
only  renvjoad  to  diaohaige  liMr«argo  upon  the  wildemeaa 
■ho(«,latharpai8engeratakacai»of  themaalvea,  and  return 
with  ona  wheal,  like  a  oripplad  winged  fowl.    Two  milaa 
uphove  ua  Uy  the  ■team.boat  Nelaon,  upon  a  aand  bar  high 
anddry.    She  ran  aground  upon  the  Sabbath,  and  being  left 
hy  a  fraahet  in  the  river,  ia  waiting  for  another,  p  be  libera- 
ted.    Our  captain  remariced.at  dinner  to^y,  that  moot  of 
theaccideata  which  iMpp*^  to  ■laam.boala  uke  place  on  the 
«|fly^*K ;  and  that  he  djd  not  believe  it  would  be  long  before 
they  would  not  run  on  Ukat  day.    We  engaged  a  man  to  take 
us  in  a  wagon  to  Liberty,  wd  toward*  evening  went  out  into 


ttKimmiiiiiiwiii 


tt  Bene&etor  oi 
I  my  power  to  do. 
betweea  kindred 
'  Ood  to-day.  and 
Q,  which  my  eye* 
rill  the  kingdom* 
rdandhiaChriit. 
I  and  hi*  nien  ap- 
TheStemwo 
id  it  was  her  first 
ads  in  raising  and 
lerwhioh  the  boat 
or  a  long  time  1 
oapMiBl»«eeifl 
ger.    There  was 
ree  use  pf  ardead 
eseezleasive  than 
laigeandmadeof 
oasible. 
odeavoringtofind 

0  9»  purpee*. .  ft 
on  the  wildemesa 
selves,  and  return 
fowl.    Two  milsa 

1  a  sand  liar  high 
h«th,.and  being  left 
other,  ^  be  libera. 
D^day,  that  most  of 
itake  place  on  the 
ould  be  long  before 
agedamantotpJce 
ening  went  out  into 


■fAti 


UBU'lff* 


It 


a  small  neighborhood  of  Mormons,  where  we  lodged.  They 
had  fled  from  Jackson  oounty,  which  they  oall  their  promisitd 
land,  and  to  which  they  say  they  shall  return.  They  are  a 
poor  deluded  people,  and  when  they  speak  of  their  persecu- 
tions, they  seem  not  to  possess  ths  spirit  of  our  Saviour,  who, 
when  he  was  reviled,  reviled  notagain,  and  when  he  suilbred, 
threatened  not. 

We  rode  on  the  21at,  twelve  miles  to  Liberty,  through  a 
very  pleasant  and  fertile  oountiy,  thinly  inhabited,  well 
supplied  wfth  woods,  and  sufllciently  unduladng  and  hilly  to 
render  it  healthy.  It  was  at  that  opening  season  of  the  year, 
when  nature,  aiousing  itself  from  the  sleep  of  winter,  appears 
with  renovated  beauty.  Not  only  man,  bat  flowers,  and 
traes,  and  birds,  seemed  to  enjoy  the  eeasM  and  the  soeoe. 
I  was  much  charmed  with  Ae  wood  duok,  (A.  Spoiisa)  which 
Imm  were  numerous ;  the  variety  of  their  oelom  were  adapted 
to  the  beauty  of  die  soensry  which  surnMOidad  us.  And 
the  spriglrtly  deer  did  not  seem  to  aooelerat*  Us  movements 
•omuehfhmi  fear,  as  from  knmof  flight.  ^^ 

Liberty  is  a  small  viliaga.  aitaaled  thasa  aiUeB  uMk  at 
m  tilMfy  aisd  iiitlfe  oeontgrtami'of  Oay;  K  ha*  a  aourK 
bouse  of  hriek-««everd  slorss,  which  do  eearidembb  busT. 
neas,  a  Mfcwalk,  and  a  numhar  of  dooent  dwdling  housss. 

W*  ooMlMMd  her*  aboot  three  weeks,  waiting  for  the 
caravan  <»  get  hi  readiness,  At  this  place  it  forma— men. 
horsee  and  mutes,  and  wagons,  are  collected  and  put  in  read- 
faiess ;  and  from  this  plaoe  aomraences  the  long  jonmeyfor 
the  west.  While  we  remaned  hen,  we  had  an  opportuidty 
to  odilaot  much  infermatkm  from  thoae  who  have  been  to 
and  beyond  the  Rooky  Mountains,  in  regard  to  the  country, 
mode  of  traveling,  uid  oonoerning  the  various  Indian  tribes 
Ml  the  wa;f .    Captain  Ford  and  Lieutenant  Stein,  from  Fort 


iiiiii 


ivjAai'e.mcmi!ui».M,.,.wii«ia-ja')M.'. 


ft  titiitfHKi  ■  ;,>iT»nro»«. 

LMYMiWorth,  wen  alto  h«rt.  They  are  both  profewon  ot 
ivligioo,  end  appear  to  be  well  aoquaioteJ  with  (he  Indian 
ooiutry.  Lieut.  S.  haa  been  much  among  the  Indiana,  waa 
out  with  the  dragoons  the  laat  year— «nd  waa  aniong  the  Paw. 
nee  Piota.  He  givea  a  very  fitvorable  aooount  of  them,  and 
thinlca  the  way  ia  open  to  eatabliah  a  miaaion  among  them 
with  fiiir  proapeots  of  auooeaa.  He  alao  thinka  the  way  ia 
prepared,  or  ia  preparing,  fbr  a  miaaion  among  the  Caraan- 
ehea,  who  heretofore  have  been  hoetile,  but  now  wbh  for 
peace  and  trade  with  the  Americana.  I  law  alk>  a  Mr. 
Vaughn  of  thia  place,  a  Baptial  profeaaor,  who  haa  made  two 
tripe  to  Santa  Fe,  and  haa  reeided  two  yeara  in  that  ptaoe. 
He  givee  •  very  inteieating  deaoription  of  the  Navaboea,  • 
tribe  who  number  about  two  thousand  warrkm.  Their 
country  Ilea  betwe«>  the  Rio  Del  Norte,  and  the  eastern 
brsnohea  of  Rio  Coioradot  They  carry  on  agriculture  to 
a  very  ooo'idwrable  extent;  have  large  herda  of  cattle  »nd 
hones,  and  fiooka  of  sbaep;  and  hare  many  domeatie  nia». 
ufaoturaa,  and  faousea  of  good  construction.  They  at* 
friendly  to  the  Americaas,  but  not  to  the  Spaniards.  Mr. 
V.  thinks  they  would  readily  receive  Protealaat  misstona* 
ries,  and  would  prefer  them  to  Roman  Catholtoa,  beoauae  of 
their  hostility  to  the  Spanlarda,  He  alan  apeaks  well  of  tha 
Paehea,  or  Apachea,  a  small  tribe  on  the  Del  Norte  towards 
old  Mexico.  These  have  been  at  war  three  years  with  tha 
Spaniards. 

Saturday,  May  Oth>  rode  twenty-aix  ndlea  to  Oantonment 
Leavenworth,  which  is  situated  on  tlie  west  side  of  the  Mia« 
souri  river,  nearly  twmty  miles  out  of  the  United  States. 
The  way  ia  through  a  fertile  section  of  country,  part  of  the 
distance  is  an  open  prairie,_otlier  parts  are  handsomely  wood< 
ed,  and  all  are  well  adapted  to  cultivntion,    I  had  an  intnb 


i. 

both  profewon  ot 
with  file  Indian 
thft  IndiMi*,  WM 
■  among  th«  Paw. 
Mint  of  them,  and 
■ion  among  them 
linluthe  way  i« 
nong  the  Caman' 
ttt  now  wbh  for 
',  Nw  atto  a  Mr. 
irhohaa  made  two 
re  in  that  place, 
the  Navabcee,  a 
iraiTiun.  Their 
i,  and  the  eajrtern 
OB  agriculture  to 
iida  of  cattle  (nd 
ly  domeatio  man- 
lion.  They  are 
Spaniards.  Mr. 
atealaat  miariona* 
holioa,  beoauaeof 
ipeakswellofthd 
)el  Norte  towards 
ee  yearn  with  tha 

les  to  Oantonment 
itsideoftheMia« 
lie  United  States, 
untry,  part  of  the 
landscunely  wood< 
1,    I  had  an  introt 


duotkm  to  aeveral  of  the  officers,  and  made  my  home  at 
l4eut.  S's,  an  agreeable  and  religious  family. 

I  preached  three  times  on  the  Sabbath,  and  moat  of  the 
people  of  the  garrison  assembled,  and  gave  good  attention. 
There  is  a  very  considerable  number  of  proftason  of  nli. 
gion  attached  to  this  station,  but  they  have  no  chaplain 
to  teaoh  and  lead  them  in  their  devotions,  which  is  a  defi- 
ciency in  our  military  establishments.  Colonel  Dodge  and 
some  of  the  other  officers  appear  disposed  to  maintain  good 
order,  and  I  should  think  they  exerted  a  ealuUry  influence. 
I  had  an  c^portunity,  before  I  returned  to  I^iberty,  to  take 
». view  of  the  fort  and  the  a4jaoent  countrjr.  .  The  buildings 
of  the  fort  are  situated  within  an  enclosure  around  a  large, 
beautiful  square,  which  is  covered  with  grMs.  and  adorned 
with  bhade  trees.  The  vhole  is  on  an  elevation  of  »ibw 
hundred  ftet,  and  has  an  interesting  prospect  of  the  majestic 
river  flowing  Q»  silently  below.  The  fertile  country  around 
preeents  a  wide  and  fine  prospect,  and  whan  settled  hy  an 
industrious  population,  will  equal  S«  most  fiivored  parts  of 
the  earth. 

Liberty,  and  the  surrounding  country^  ia  inhabited  by 
pec^le  of  considerable  enterprise,  and  when  it  shftll  be 
brought  under  Christian  influence,  then  will  be  but  few 
places  raon  inviting.  There  is  but  one  Praabyterian  min. 
ister  in  this  county,  a  man  of  talents  and  very  respectable 
attainmants,  who  it  exerting  a  good  influence.  The  Bap^ 
tisis  iB<thi8  section  of  country  are  unlike  those  of  the  MM. 
laiey.  aro  exposed  to  .the  benevoltat  operations  of  the  day. 
Elder  H.  the  pastor  of  the  church  in  this  place,  invited  Rev. 
Mr.  Merril,  a  Baptist  missionary,  located  among  the  Otoe 
Indians  of  the  Platte,  and  myself,  to  preach  for  him  the 
first  Sabbath  after  our  arrival.    His  people  objected,  ap. 


•  ■', 


0MP 


N  niovtitcuunn. 

pn-hDiirive  that  Mr.  Menril  would  wy  tomMhing  about  th« 
cauM  of  Temperance,  or  miMionary  eflbrta,  and  Elder  H. 
had  to  withdraw  hit  invitation.  They  profeMi  to  act  frotn 
Chriatiiui  principles  in  reftiring  to  give  their  miniater  any 
thing  for  support,  lest  they  should  make  him  a  hireling. 

It  is  amusing  to  obt«rre  the  provincialisms  which  are 
common  in  this  part  of  the  country.     If  a  person  intends  to 
commence  a  journey  some  time  in  th<  month,  for  instance, 
in  May ;  he  says,  "  I  am  going  in  all  the  month  of  May." 
For  a  large  assembly  of  people,  they  say,  "  a  smart  sprinkle 
of  people.'*    The  word  "  balance,"  comes  Into  almost  every 
transaction — "  will  you  not  have  a  dessert  for  the  balance 
of  your  dinner  ?"— "to make  out  the  habmee  of  his  night's 
r«st,  he  slept  unUl  eight  in  the  momhig."    If  your  baggage 
is  to  be  carried,  h  will  be  asked,  '^ahall  I  Me  yoar  phmderf" 
This  use  of  the  woitl  plunder  is  said  to  have  originated  in 
the  early  predatory  habits  of  the  borderers.    They  also 
speak  of  a  "mighty  pleasant  day**— "a  mighty  beautiful 
flower"—"  mightg  wedt."    A  gentleman,  with  whom  I  form- 
ed some  acquaintance,  invited  me,  when  I  should  make  "  on 
outing"  for  fxercise,  to  call  at  his  houae ;  for  hia  fcroily 
would  be  "  mighty  glad"  to  see  me. 

During  our  continuance  at  this  place,  we  were  hoqNtaUy 
tfnterutned  at  the  houae  of  J.  Bird,  Esq.,  one  of  the  judges  of 
the  county  court.  We  were  under  many  obligatioas  to  him 
and  Mrs.  B.  not  only  for  tfieir  liberality,  but  also  for  the 
privilege  of  i«tirement  in  so  kind  and  intelligent  a  fiunily. 
Nor  would  we  be  unmindful  of  the  hospitality  shown  us  by 
Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Yantis. 

May  lOth,  all  things  being  in  readiness,  we  commenced 
our  journey  for  Council  Blufft,  directing  our  course  north- 
vest.    We  did  not  get  to-day  beyond  the  boundaries  of  the 


m 


ithing  about  th^ 
ts,  and  Elder  H. 
ifeM  to  aot  from 
iflir  minist«r  any 
n  a  hireling, 
llema  whloh  are 
Mraon  intends  to 
ith,  for  inatanoe, 
month  of  May." 
>  ft  nnart  sprinkle 
into  almost  every 
rt  for  the  balance 
nee  of  his  night's 

If  your  baggage 
teyowfhmderf" 
lava  originated  in 
pers.    They  also 

mighty  beautiful 
irith  whom  I  form- 
should  make  "on 
B ;  for  hla  ftunily 

e  were  hospitaUy 
ne  of  the  judges  of 
obligations  to  him 
f,  but  also  for  the 
telligent  a  ftunily. 
»lity  shown  us  by 

IS,  we  oommenoed 
'  our  course  north* 
I  boundaries  of  the 


pMi    —iiii       III        — ^iBp^B— — w—     »  i»«^wiiM>— —■ ^w^i»»— mil       II  , 


mMAM 

United  States,  and  for  the  last  time,  for  a  long  period  to 
come,  I  lodged  in  the  house  of  a  oiviliied  fomily. 

Th«>  next  day,  we  traveled  twenty  miles,  which  brought 
us  beyond  the  limito  of  oiviliiatien,  and  into  the  Indian  ooun>. 
try,  and  encamped  on  a  prairie  surrounded  with  wood.  The 
sensations  excited  by  the  circumstances  of  our  situation 
were  peoMliar,  and  such  as  I  had  not  before  folt ;  in  a  wi|. 
demeas,  inhabited  by  unseen  savages  and  wild  beasts,  en- 
gaged  in  setting  our  tent,  preparing  supper  with  only  a  fow 
articles  of  ftimiture,  the  ground  for  our  chairs,  tabic,  and 
bed.  But  all  was  conducted  in  good  style  ;  for  I  would  not 
dispense  with  attention  to  dlsoenotes,  bsoause  beyond  the 
boundaries  of  civilintion;  and  having  adjusted  every  thing 
hi  good  ordbr,  and  oflbred  up  our  aveaiag  devotions,  we  re- 
tired to  rest.  But  how  to  adjust  all  the  anxieties  and  feel- 
ings of  the  mind,  so  as  to  obtain  the  deslrad  repose,  was  a 
more  difficult  task. 

On  the  17th,  I  crossed  over  the  east,  or  little  Platte,  which 
is  a  very  oooaUerabia  river,  and  wpmoA  tba  Sabbath  with  Mr. 
Gilmore,  a  Methodist  proftssor,  and  governmental  black- 
smith for  the  Iowa  Indians.  Saw  many  Indiaas  of  the  lows, 
Sioux,  and-  Pox  tribes.  Among  thaas  a  Fox  Indian  and  his 
wifo  were  noble  looking  persons,  havinig  their  fiioes  painted 
with  unmixed  vermilion ;  the  former  entirely,  and  the  latter 
in  stripes.  They  folt  too  important  to  be  seen  noticing  what 
was  transpiring  around^  and  seemed  to  think  themselves 
the  oiriy  objects  worthy  of  notice. 

Here  is  an  excellent,  fertile  tract  of  country,  and  nothing 
discouraging  for  a  missicmary  station,  exoe|rt  the  contami- 
nating iailueBoe  of  vicious  white  men.  TIio  natives  wiah 
to  cultivate  their  land,  probably  more  from  necessity  than 
on  any  other  account ;  for  their  game  is  mostly  gone.    One 


oftlMm  oaiM  to  Mr.  Oilnior*  to  g«t  wmm  ploufha,  and  r«. 
iiMrked,  "  It  ia  hard  tprork  to  dig  up  our  ground  fbr  oom  by 
hand."  Th*  Sioux  bar*  ar«  only  a  Mmall  band,  who  would 
not  join  Blaek  Hawk  in  hia  war  againat  tha  Unitad  Stataa, 
and  who  ara  now  afraid  to  return  to  thair  own  country. 
Thdir  condition  in  becoming  more  and  more  wretoiiad ;  for 
while  they  have  not  the  knowledge,  the  meana,  nor  muoh 
or  the  inoliaatiou  neoeaaary  to  cultivate  thai?  Unda  advaa* 
tageoualy,  they  have  an  inaatiable  thirat  for  ardent  apirita ; 
and  there  are  too  many  unprinoipled  man  on  our  firontiera, 
who,  for  the  aakn  of  ^ain,  will  aupply  them  with  the  meana 
of  drunkeoaeaa  and  deairuotkMi. 

Leaving  Mr.  Q.,  grataftdly  remembering  hia  hoapitality, 
we  rode  on  Monday,  18th,  twelve  miles  to  Blaokandke  Hilla. 
At  thia  plaoo  Mr.  Rubedoux  haa  a  trading  poat,  and  an  ub- 
oomroonty  ine  (arming  Mtabliahment  on  the  Miaaouri  river. 
Hia  buildinga  are  on  a  wmall  elevation  ot  land,  having  a 
dalightful  prospeot  in  (roal  ^taore  tiian  a  tbMMnaad  aorea 
of  <^)«n  bottoan  land,  iying  along  down  tha  river;  and  hilU 
on  the  north  and  eaat  partially  ooverod  wifh  wood*.  What 
haa  nature  not  wrougHit  without  the  labor  of  man  7  The 
berda  of  oatUe,  and  other  doiaeatia  aoinala,  have  aa  wida 
a  range  aa  they  ehooaa,  and  fenoea  an  neoeaaary  cnly  to 
aeoure  fields  for  oultivatioa. 

The  IndiaiM  here  have  a  new  mode  of  diifoaing  of  their 
dead.  A  aoaffbldiaraiaed  about  eight  feet  high,  upon  which 
the  dead  are  plao()<<  in  rudely  oonc^ruotad  eoAaaoverapread 
with  akina. 

Having  obtained  a  aupply  of  milk,  I  eno.\mped  out,  pre* 
ferring  the  field  to  the  houae,  where  I  might  have  been  aub- 
jaoted  to  iaany  kinda  of  annoyanoea. 

For  several  daya  nothing  apeoial  ocourrad;.   On  the  33d, 


iiiililiii''  I ' 


^■jii^ff" 


plouflht,  tad  n- 
round  for  oom  by 
b«iid,  who  would 
ttM  Unitad  SuIm, 
sir  own  country. 
ir«  wretohod ;  for 
moMM,  nor  muoh 
htit  UtndM  adv*n> 
br  nnWni  ipirit* ; 
I  on  our  firoation, 
m  with  Um»  ine«n« 

ag  hU  hoipiuUty, 
BlaokmcJte  HU1«. 
I  pout,  and  an  un- 
fa* MiaKNiri  rivvr. 
4  Unit  hnrinf  « 
«  tbounad  Mm 
«  rhrwr ;  Md  hill* 
ifh  woodi.  What 
»r  of  mka  ?  Tbfl 
bb,  hnv*  M  wid* 
aeocMMy  only  td 

diiposing  of  tbair 
t  hifh,  upon  which 
ooffina  ovenprMd 

loiunped  out,  pr«. 
|ht  h»v«  bean  sub* 

rnd;.   OnthaSlld. 


■PMia 


••"ir 


COMflWrnOK  9V  A   BAfT.  vv 

We  ofOMid  tlM  iKadnwny  rivtr  'villi  n  imft ;  iIm  oocMtrtioUon 
of  which,  and  tnwporting  our  bafgng*,  ooeupi«  d  anoal  of 
tha  day.  To  oonatmot  a  rai,  a  numbar  of  dry  lofpi  are 
oollaotawi,  and  aaourad  togatlMr,  Mm  by  itd*.  wHh  bark* 
Mrippad  fbm  aim  traaai  Mma  fow  man  awim  aeioH  th« 
river,  taking  with  them  ana  md  of  a  rope,  whil*  tha  other 
end  ia  faalanad  lo  tha  raft ;  it  ia  tlian  shoved  o4;  tha  men 
upoti  tha  other  akia  of  the  river  puliinn  upm  l'mi  rope, 
The  raft  k  genaraUy  drifted  oooaidaraUy  down  alraam,  be- 
fore it  ia  bionght  M  tand  upan  the  oppoiita  ahore.  In  this 
nanaar  they  owMaad  and  ra^ruaaad,  until  tha  baggana  waa 
oanriad  over.  Then  followed  tha  swimmii^  over  the  hotaaa, 
whjoli  ia  attioded  witft  noiae  aoeugk— haliooinii  of  men, 
anortinf  of  thd  horaaa,  and  throwing  Mioka  and  atonea  la 
fmvdM  th«ro»  «Aer  havfaiB  gone  part  the  way  over,  tnm 

Wa  aav  many  elk,  but  they  were  too  wary  to  be  a|b 
pnaehed,  and  loo  Heal  to  be  ahaaad.  and  our  haman  wn 
not  aufloi^Hly  auooaaafti!  to  obtain  any.  Thay  ara  T«ry 
laifc,  and  whan  tbair  home  are  on,  have  a  wry  majeatie 
appeanuiee.  We  flrMjuantly  found  rindr  bona  on  the 
prairie,  aoaae  ofwhkth  ware  four  foot  long,  with  laige  wMa 
tprmSng  btaaahaa. 

Sabbath,  the  twenty-fourth,  painrfng  over  a  broiA  naur 
whioh  wa  had  amwinped  the  evening  before,  my  ooiifpanion 
and  myself  rrmained  for  the  day,  while  the  oara«an  went 
on.  The  movamanta  at  tha  oaravan  are  so  alow,  that  we 
foil  oonfidMit  we  <Sould  overtake  them  without  any  diiHculty, 
and  aa  there  waa  no  danger  from  the  hoatile  Indians,  we 
oonsidarei!  it  our  duty  to  raat  «i  this  holy  day.  The  day 
was  very  warm  for  May,  the  thermometer  stapdin^,  at  two 
|p  tha  aftemooo,  at  88", 


mifi^immmmmmitm 


mmNABoTANA  imni. 


TIm  Mnt  dkjr  w  overtook  Um  o«r*ir«ii  (mIim  nifiM,  itnd 
enmmi  th*  (wiith  branoh  of  the  ffoaiMHibotiuM  oa  »  rtft. 
Sbmo  of  the  inen  of  the  oeramn,  If  not  kU,  were  mrnh  die. 
pieeeed  beoeuee  we  did  not  trsrel  with  them  on  the  Cabbalh. 
To  eipreae  their  dieplAMure,  they  out  wnim  of  the  bftriie, 
vrith  whioh  the  raft  they  hftd  mede  wm  bound  together,  end 
e»t  it  adrift.  Profidentielly  it  did  not  drift  Air  before  it 
lodfed  efrainat  a  tree,  end  without  muoh  loee  of  tine,  w« 
repaired  it  end  peaaed  over. 

After  our  arrmngemeutM  were  made  l^r  the  night,  one  of 
the  deaperadoee  came  to  our  tent  wilh  a  baain  of  alcohol,  and 
■taied  to  ua  that  they  had  taken  the  oA^noe  of  our  reftidng 
to  travel  with  them  on  the  Sabbath  into  ootuideratkNi.  and 
had  oonoluded  to  paaa  it  over,  if  we  woald  take  a  fl^endly 
drink  with  them.  Hiia  of  eoanM,  we  declined.  He  aald 
the  men  wero  highly  diipleaaed,  and  he  oould  not  aay  what 
wouU  be  the  reeult — giving  lu  to  underatand  that  if  we  re- 
fiMwdl  tlMiv  laraM  <^  reooooUiatiaB,  our  iivee  were  in  danger. 
WealiHiwfbMMi.  He  then  Mid  if  «•  would  put  the  bMia  t9 
our  lipa  and  wet  them,  they  wotUd  aooopt  that  aa  aatiafco. 
tiin.  Bat  kia  aignmenti  and  thveata  noi  avaitt«g  l»  akaate 
our  temperaao*  priiMipIee,  lie  went  away,  but  aa  we  aftfer- 
irardfl  learned  without  giving  up  the  purpoae  of  rarenge  on 
■oflM  other  oooaakm. 

On  the  twenty •eixth,  we  cam*  to  the  nwin  braneh  of  the 
If eehnabotana,  and  oommenoed  making  a  raft,  tba  totehing 
t>f  whioh  and  oroeeing  took  moat  of  ^  following  day.  The 
aoU  of  thi*  part  of  the  ootmtry  ia  rieh,  and  the  graaa  for  our 
horaee  ia  esoetlent ;  but  there  are  none  here  to  till  the  ground, 
nor  to  gather  in  the  ten  thouaand  tone  of  hay,  whioh  might 
be  made  from  the  apootaneoua  growth.  Thia  part  of  the 
country  doea  not  yet  anawer  the  ei|d  for  whioh  it  wm  ontk 


mmm 


htthn  niflii,  und 
nuuM  on  a  ftft. 
I,  w«i«  ni«")h  (ii** 
m  on  th<i  Cabbalh. 
fiM  of  the  bark*, 
Dund  to|fp«ther,  vnd 
lirift  Ikr  bafbni  it 
I  low  of  liaa*,  v« 

r  Um  night,  on*  of 
Minofsloohol,  and 
DA  of  our  r«fti«ing 
oo(uid«ratioa,  (UmI 
ltd  t«k«  »  fHandlj 
MliMd.  Ha  Mid 
3ould  not  My  what 
mnd  that  if  wa  r«< 
M  wan  in  dangar. 
old  pot  tha  baiiii  to 
t  that  aa  Mtialbs. 
i  av«Uteg  la  ateba 
r<  but  a«  wa  aftkr> 
■poM  of  faranfa  M 

lain  hiaiMth  of  tha 
i  raft,  tha  toMdnf 
lowing  day.  Tha 
1  tha  graM  ft>r  our 
« to  till  tha  ground, 
hay,  which  might 
Thia  part  of  tha 
which  H  WM  orwtt 


vmaaweTiB  mvneoLraa.  |§ 

tad.  Tha  tima  will  ooom,  whan  a  daoM  population  will 
oovar  thia  oouiury,  who  will  randar  tli.»  Miorii)o«  of  prayar 
and  pnUM)  to  uur  (Jod. 

On  tha  aeih,  wa  roda  alavan  nUlM,  aiid  oame  to  tha  north 
brmmh  of  tho  abova  mantiuafld  rivar.  After  wa  had  oon- 
■traotad  a  raft,  wa  had  a  vary  diflioult  tima  of  oitMaing. 
The  water  waa  continually  and  rapidly  rising,  ami  baibra 
wo  fiai«had  eronung,  the  iiaalu  were  uverdowed  to  oonaida. 
rahla  daplh ;  and  tha  alluvial  aoil  waa  landared  too  eoft  lo 
auatain  our  ho  raaa,  and  thay  aunk  ao  daap  that  wa  could  not 
praoaad.  After  aaarohing  fcr  a  loug  tima,  a  piaoa  waa 
fcuod  auOoiantly  hard  to  bear  up  our  aairaala  whan  ua. 
UMdad.  Wa  had  to  oarry  our  baggage  iqwn  our  abouldara 
about  flftaaa  n»dm,  part  of  the  wav  in  wata^  mU  deep,  goiag 
forward  aad  ratarriiog  until  aJl  waa  oanM  to  batter 
ground ;  and  then  we  had  to  ride  a  mile  lo  the  dry  prairie 
in  WMtar  one  and  two  ieet  deep.  We  rajoioed  to  Und  ouf . 
Mlvaa  oww  mora  on  firm  fiwiiag.  Enoampad  by  a  itveaM 
of  olaar  water,  which  ia  ram  m  thia  part  af  the  uountry,  and 
aapadaHyatlkkaaaaonoftheyear.  Tha  watera  of  all  thia 
portion  of  aountry,  aapaoiaUy  of  the  Miaaouti  river,  and  ite 
larga  tributeriea,  are  wary  turbid,  owing  to  the  natuia  of  tha 
Mil  over  whioh  they  pa«.  A  paU  fuU  of  water,  atandiag 
Uslf  an  hour  at  the  aaaaona  of  fraahet%  will  depoait  thma- 
«ighta  of  ao  inaii  of  aadlmant;  and  yet  tha  water,  whan 
wttlad,  appear*  to  be  of  good  quality. 

Our  mode  of  living,  {torn  day  to  day,  had  already  nec«» 
Mrily  beoome  uniform.  Dry  bread  and  baoon  oonaUtuted 
our  breakftat,  dinner,  and  au^iar.  Tha  baoon  we  oookad, 
when  we  oould  obtain  wood  for  firo;  but  when  "out  of 
sight  of  land,"  that  ia,  when  nothing  but  graen  graaa  oould 
ba  aeen,  we  eat  our  baoon  without  cooking.    Some  of  the 


1 


.......,i.waP 


M 


MotmM  or  m  wnr. 


•impImtArtiolea  of  Aimiture  were  guiSoient  for  our  culinary 
purpoaes.  The  real  wants  of  life  are  few,  artificial  ones  are 
numerous. 

30th.  We  drew  near  to  Council  Bluffii,  and  pasMd  down 
from  the  high  rolling  prairie,  through  a  vale  two  or  three 
miles  long,  and  a  half  mile  wide,  into  the  rich  alhifial,  and 
widely  extended  v«Hey  of  the  Missouri,  through  a  section  of 
country  of  uncommonly  interesting  scenery.  The  mounds, 
which  some  have  called  the  work  of  unknown  generatfams 
of  men,  were  scattered  here  in  all  varieties  of  fimns  and 
magratodes ;  and  were  thousands  in  number,  and  perhaps  I 
may  say  ten  thousands.  Some  of  these  mounds  were  coni- 
oal,  some  eliplical,  some  square,  and  others  jMirallelognuns. 
One  group  of  these  attr-cted  my  attention  more  than  any 
others.  They  were  twehe  in  numher,  of  conical  form,  with 
their  bases  joined,  and  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high.  Tliey 
formed  about  twiKthirds  of  a  cirole,  wiUi  an  area  of  two 
hundred  feet  in  diameter.  If  these  were  isolated,  who  Wold 
not  say  they  are  artificial  1  But  when  they  are  -only  a 
group  of  ten  thousand  others,  which  have  as  much  the  ap- 
pears'soe  of  being  artificial,  who  will  presume  to  say  they 
are  the  work  of  man  1  But  if  they  are  the  worit  of  ait, 
and  attest  the  number,  the  genius,  and  perseveranoe  of  de> 
parted  nations,  whose  works  have  survived  the  Iflpee  of  ages, 
their  history  is  riirouded  in  darkness.  <'  Hie  mind  seeks  in 
vain  for  some  clue  to  assist  it  in  unraveling  the  mysteir)'. 
Was  their  industry  stimulated  by  the  desire  to  protect  thorn* 
selves  against  inroads  of  invaders,  or  were  they  litem- 
selves  the  aggressors  V  "  Are  they  the  monuments  of  wes- 
tern Pharaohs,  and  do  they  conceal  treasures  which  may 
yet  be  brought  to  light  ?"  There  is  nothing  plainer  Uuui 
that  they  were  never  designed  as  woVks  of  defenoe,    But 


"mi^ 


I  ■iK"ilUi>.wiA«.*M«iil>V«ii 


•"IJMiHiri'aefo'^ 


»nt  tat  our  oulinary 
IT,  trtifkswl  ones  are 

El,  and  pMMd  down 
vale  two  or  three 
16  rich  alluf  ial,  and 
through  a  aeotion  of 
ery.  The  mounda, 
iknown  generatimia 
ieties  of  forms  and 
mber,  and  perhaps  1 
mounds  were  ooni- 
ers  parallelograms, 
tion  more  than  any 
>f  oonioal  form,  with 
y  feet  high.  Tliey 
iUi  an  area  of  two 
I  isolated,  who  would 
in  they  are -only  • 
^ve  as  much  the  ap- 
resume  to  say  they 
ire  the  woric  of  ait, 
perseverance  of  de> 
'ed  the  Ifipse  of  ages, 
"  The  mind  seeks  in 
veling  the  mystair)'. 
•ire  to  protect  them- 
were  they  them- 
» monuments  of  wes- 
)asures  whioh  may 
lothing  plainer  Uuui 
u  of  defenoe,    Rut 


I  nvm>mmml^ll»mmmmm>'''fmmii<iifi/tfm 


Nommr  or  iw 


seKXP"' 


flonM,  whli*  they  admit  diat  diese  mounds  were  not  designed 
foroflbnsive  or  defensive  operations  of  belligerent  powers, 
have  supposed  that  they  were  erected  as  "mausoleums,  and 
t)»at  tha  difierenoe  in  their  size  was  Intended  to  convey  an 
ideaofthe  diflerenoe  in  thervlative  Importance  of  those  whose 
bones  they  cover."  If  this  theory  is  true,  th«  La  Thippe  on 
the  Missinippi,  which  I  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  on 
ray  northern  tour,  whioh  is  as  much  as  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  Mgh,  and  covers  about  lix  acres,  must  inclose  mighty 
bones,  or  the  booes  of  a  mighty  monarch.  I  would  not  be 
UDHlersMod  to  dissent  ttmft  the  belief,  that  then  ai«  artiAclal 
nMHmda  in  the  gitat  valley  of  the  west,  but  I  believe  there 
are  great  mbtakea  in  the  theories  upon  this  subject.  It  is 
8«i<^  fey  those  who  advocate  dke  belief  that  they  are  the  work 
of  aaolent  nattions,  that  they  present  plab  evidence  of  this, 
from  the  fiwt  that  they  contain  human  bone^  articles  of  pot- 
tery, and  the  lile,  whteh  evince  that  they  were  oonstruoteA 
Aor  burying  places  of  the  dead.  That  some  of  them  have 
been  laed  for  burying  places  is  undoubtedly  true ;  bur  may 
it  not  be  qnastiooablv  whether  they  were  o(Mistruoted,  or  only 
selected  for  burying  places.  Besides,  if  these  mounds  were 
wwfcvof  human  art,  I  coniiMB  myself  wholly  at  a  loss  to  dis- 
cover the  traces  of  dmttgn,  whidi  are  always  chaimoteristio  fl# 
every  human  eflbrt.  The  abetoce  of  every  other  vest^e  of  a 
race  extiac^  such  as  monmnents,  walls,  cities,  or  raids  of 
any  description,  lead  us  to  believe,  that  such  a  people  must 
have  lived  <Hily  to  burrow  in  the  earth,  as  these  mounds  are 
the  only  traces  they  have  left  of  their  existence.  Depopulate 
any  portion  of  the  world,  with  which  we  are  acquainted,  and 
save  Uw  savages  who  roam  the  desert  or  the  prairie,  many 
oentaries  mint  elapse,  before  all  monuments  would  en- 
tirely cease  to  exist.    No  one,  who  has  ever  seen  the  im- 


■■■liiP 


^mmmmm 


DMBM  Diambtr  of  mounds  ■aottond  duov^  tbo  vftUoy  of  tko 
Miwiwippi,  will  evor  bo  w  oiodaloui  m  to  boUovo,  tkat  m 
Avo  huadioddi  port  of  thorn  ore  tho  work  of  mmi. 

Wo  oroModthe  Mangino  rivor,  whtoh,  thoufk  vory  doop^ 
wu  not  00  wido  but  that  wo  ooMtruolod  a  bridgo  ovor  it. 
Prooooding  many  miloo  throi^  tho  rioh  botton  lands  of  tbn 
Missouri,  wo  orooiBd  this  nobis  ritorwwr  against  BaUwiio> 
ui  a  laifo  oanoo,  and  swam  our  horsss  and  nmlos  tuom, 
whiob,  on  aooountof  tho  width  ^tho  eivor,  and  tko  olvittgth 
of  tho  ourrsnt,  roquirsd  mooh  tflbit  I  ^SMt  io  tko 
ogoooy  bouse,  wksio  I  wao  hsppy  la  fiad  bnthvon  Jhm 
bar  and  Allis,  misskmaiiss  to  tho 
dirootian  of  the  Amorioaa  Boafdof  < 
dgn  MhwionB.  1VwBlsaBa|Misti 
of  Sov.  Moooo  Monil  and  wifc.  Miss  Brown,  and  a  Gkiii^ 
tian  Indtaa  woman,  a  douondaat  of  Ro¥.  D.  Biainard'a  In* 
diaao.  They  aro  Tinprinilinfl  by  dia  Baotfst  Boai4  to  lahoi^ 
auMaig  tho  Otoo  la^an^  about  twoaQr4vo  mttos  Aqm  tUa 
plaoo^  on  tko  riror  Platla.  Thsoo  ladkns  am  away  fimn 
Ooir  intondod  msidsooo  about  kalf  tko  tinio>  o*  kunUi^ 
oacouzaons. 

A  Utdo  mors  than-a  kalf  milo  bo'ow  tko  agonoy,  tk* 
imorioan  Fur  Company  karo  a  fort,  jod  in  eonnwian 
they  have  a  fiurming  oolablishmsnt  and  largo  numkon  of 
oattlo  and  horsss,  and  a  horse  powor  mill  for  grinding  owii 


■(^■C>i  = 


)«»    *#^.i  r 


iriftMwtiliii 


iiiirrMifflyiiMitriliiiifrWfi - -' '■■■■■-'■'-■■■^■■■"'-'■'^ .m.^^ 


PIP 


mt 


mm0m^- 


o  htlkv*,  tlMt  m 

houfh  very  datp^ 
i  bridga  ovwr  it. 
lOonUndaoftlM 


id  KMllw 

,  MdtlMMmttgib 

I  INBt  40    th* 

d  BnuNtt  Swi' 

tiM 


wa,«MlAGhiiiN 
D.  Bmiaard'slB' 
1  Board  to  kkor 
allw  flmntUi 
I  «n  away  fima 

"■■■■■PI    ^^    ^■'^^^^^p 

Um  tftaoy,  tha 
nd  in  coBiMiloii 
uga  aiunbaia  of 
br  griodiag  own. 


wmnavh 


CHAPTER  m. 


e«aliafl 


I  ftl  CwaoU  Bhdb- 


nf— iBdiuMntMi^ 


— tafimution  abtekiwl  aboot  atMnl  ladiui  teihw  By>iinmi>c 
Cbolm.-«a  ladka  Chief  kUlMl--lMTC  B«UeTM  <br  Iht  BiMk  Hllb 
I  of  nJii  h— Ty  tbniMlw  ■tarm— Elkhorn  rirar,  tke  oaaatrf 
I  Pwii  a^the  W»tt»  — awir  cf ww—i^t  Wg  Ak, 
Ohtof   IntfiM  tUitJut    ftwUfc  «r  idy— M— i.  Dmtar 


Mo—bito  of  ft  rfctUMMlM    haftla  mw    ytttiU  hw(|y    ftfto 
rflfctriiiMi  ii»Mrtrf»nwl    jwUtoMiioftMt 


MfW-BlMkHUb.  ^ 

'"'^s  QontiiHMd  In  thit  {ilaoa  thiM  waaks,  waiting  tiie  more. 
OMnti  ofdMoaravan,  who  made  ilow  pragiMi  in  pnfwring 
tiMrpaoftagca  Jbr  ilw  matnrtaini.-  Dari^  oar  JoWBioo 
lott^  r  ft«|ttiMly  walked  ovar  tte  un*  bafdoritag  tipaii  Ae 
wMt  of  Hm  vallay  of  tha  MiMOoii,  to  «i^  tlM  pttia  air  of 
dM  rolHng  pvairioo,  and  to  tiaw  tiw  flMgadfioont  pioqMots 
wdbUMInteTakrbalow^  PronllMMiaBikofthoMiino. 
wtaiiwai,  dtoirdlay  of  tho  MImoiuI  may  be  tiaoed  tmtit 
laitittilefcrwiBdiiigeoane  among  tlieUiilft.  ThiMndles 
Mow,  ie  leen  die  Papillon,  a  oonrrideraUa  etvaam  flmn  the 
neilli>waitr  winding  it*  way  round  to  the  eaat,  and  nnitfaig 
wiA  tlM  MbmoaaA,  six  milea  above  the  conflnenoe  of  the 
na^  ottabtfi^  fion  the  wait.  Theee  flow  througli  a  rich 
allnvial  plaiB»  opening  to  dw  eootii  and  eouth^weit  ae  far 
aa  the  aye  aan  reach.  Upon  theee  meadowa  are  aeen  fitod- 
lag  eone  finr  hundreda  ot  heiase  hnd  malee,  and  a  lierd  of 


»^WP»SHPmpipiwini»ii.iJW)iiji  ipi|iiiWHwppwwwi4>W 


m  tumoKAMr 

Mttle;  •ndiomehaldiofooradiveniAMltKeMMmiy.  The 
north  is  covered  with  woode,  which  ere  not  le«  falut- 
ble  than  the  rich  v»lee.  But  few  placee  can  preeent  •  pros- 
pect more  intereeUcg,  and  when  a  ciTiliied  population  shall 
add  the  fruits  of  their  industrjr,  but  few  oan  bo  more  desi- 
rable. • 

In  reepad  to  efibrts  for  the  religious  insiruotioa  and  eon- 
veriion  of  ths  Indians,  I  am  oonvinoed,  from  all  I  oan  learn 
of  their  native  character,  that  the  first  impressions  niliioh 
the  wiseionary  makes  upon  then^  ai*  aUogethet  important 
in  thdir  bearings  tm  sueoesdbl  labors  afterwards.  In  ddiigs 
about  which  they  i^re  ooaTersant,  tfiey  are  men ;  but  about 
other  things  thi^  are  childivn ;  and  like  obttdnn,  the  an- 
iwnnoement  of  a  new  sufajeot  awiJiMis  disir  atteMini)  their 
euriosity,  and  their  eoeigies;  MMflt  has  bean  rMnailrad  by 
a  Methodist  miiwioM^  wfio  has  labored  among  the  Indiane, 
that  mmf  fsened  to  embnMie  the  gospel  on  its  flnt  Mng 
oifemd»  and  tlMU  those  among  the  adults,  who  ihfled  to  do  so, 
weiMtarely  oonvertad.  I^  from  luiy  tnotiires,  or  from  luiy 
oauae,  fautruotias  is  delayed,  and  tbek  npeotatSone  vm  die- 
appoictad,  they  rdapae  iiiloth«ir  nMive  apatl^,  final  whi«h 
itiadiAotdttp«rmMitl«Nn.  «' 

W«  had  w  o^ortoaity,  whilst  wo  oontinned  in  tUs  plte*, 
to  oolleet  muoh  iofonnttloBNlatiBg  to  die  Indians  la  Ae  Si- 
ouK  country,  from  BfajorP^  the  agent  appofaitedrbygomtt.. 
raenttotheYanktons,abaadoftheSioiuc.  Aappsantobt 
)^  only  intelligent  and  oandid,  but  also  waH^  dMpesed  to- 
wards Indiw  inqprovmnent.  The  IbUowhig  k  dw  subBtanee 
of  the  biforraation  whidi  he  gave  us  in  renidto  sevai«1 
tribee  to  the  north  and  aotth-wesl  of  thk^oa:  that  the 
Omahaws  are  situated  upon  the  Miasouri,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  above  this  plaoe^  and  nupbar  about  two 


iiiiiNiiliiiyaiii^^ 


Ppmhi 


tK«  MMmiy.  1!1ie 
I  not  !•«  Talus- 
Mui  piMMit  •  pros- 
d  population  shall 
an  ba  mora  daai- 

ilruotiaa  and  «on- 
mti  all  I  oan  learn 
impraanona  a^oh 
9f«thaB  important 
ward*.    In  Mtiga 

0  men ;  bat  about 
obildraii,  the  an- 

•ijr  attaatkii)  their 
fteon  reoMiilMd  by 
mong  the  Indiana, 

1  OB  its  fliit  being 
hoAkOedtodoeo, 
tirea,  or  from  «By 
paetat&PiM  •?»  dia^ 
latl^,  final  whi«h 

BoedintUeplaea, 
IndlMMlatheSi. 
nlntoitbxgorenik 
Ai  appears  to  b* 
well' diepoeed- to-' 
iglidwtvbBlanee 
reflMid'to  eevend 
ieptaoa:  that  the 
iboutonehuadrad 
upiber  about  two 


uovx  uuuin.  #«• 

thouMMd.  They  have  been  well  diqxMMMl  towards  the 
whitee,  but,  owing  to  their  Interoourse  with  traders  and 
trappers,  and  abuees  whioh  they  have  reoeived  from  them, 
they  are  becoming  more  vicious  in  their  habits,  and  lees 
friendly.  Yet,  kind  treatment  would  ooocUiate  their  favor, 
so  that  there  would  be  no  reason  to  fear  but  that  a  mission 
night  be  esUblisbed  among  them  with  iair  proapects  of  sue- 


J  The  Yankttms  are  an  intereeting  band  of  the  Sioux,  of 
aboottwe  thousand  people.  Their  village  is  to  be  looated  on 
the  Vennilioa  river,  wh«re  it  unites  with  the  Missouri  firom 
the  UHth.  Maj.  P.  thinks  this  will  be  a  very  eligible  fdaoe 
for  •  raiaHOBary  statkm,  and  says  he  will  do  all  k  ^'  ^ggmir 
to«idsueh«ff«Bterprise.  .,« 

The  PoBoa^  Indians,  on  the  aouth  side  oftbe  liiasoiiiit.«l 
the  OQoAuenoe  of  the  L'emu  pd  esare,  number  sU  or  eight 
buadied,  and  ^eak  the  same  language  as  the  Omahaws. 
^^Timni^  <^  oouotry,  Oram  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux 
rfTc^and  that4»  tise  south  of  Mm  X'som  pd  emn*  as  liigh  w 
the  oountry  of  the  Maodan  Indinns,  may  be  olaaseiuador  tha 
gMenUhtad  of  the  Sioux  ooontry;  and  is  hihabited  Igr  |ii» 
following  bands  of  Ooux,  vix^  the  Tanktona*  alreMy  »>«>• 
tifliiadi  Stota%  Yanktonas,  Tetaos,  OgalUUaha,  8lQMs,.and 
the  HankFiffffi  who  oourse  east  and  west  fiopn  the  Miacb> 
sippi  10  the  Blaok  Hills,  and  sometimee  as  fiir  south  af  Uta 
ri*«r  Platte.  The  real  number  of  the  several  bands  oaimol 
b«  oorraotiy  asoertiunedt  but  probably  it  is  from  forty  to  sixty 
tboaaaiid»  Tlwtr  habits  are  wandering,  and  they  rely  ex. 
elusively  upon  the  chase  for  subsistenoe.  Tlieir  principal 
tndaisinbuiMorobes^  .  The  traders  have  for  many  yearn 
„^n,^l,jf»^  ^frinadly  mteroourae  widi  them,  and  generally 
speakini^  they  are  much  attached  to  white  men.,  ^  _^^.^ 


li 


THl  irAMMmo  OIDURA. 

The  Mtnclana  are  •  much  mora  Btadonary  p«o|M  tRMT 
•Imoat  any  other  trilw  in  thh  whole  icigkm  of  ooontry,  and 
the  opportunity  to  eatabli«h  ndaifamariea  among  them  is 
gooA ;  but  on  aooovnt  of  repeated 'ilT  treatment,  whtoh  they 
hate  experienced,  they  are  beginning  to  grow  suapioioua, 
and  are  loeing  confidence  in  white  men. 

Our  atay  In  diia  plaoa  haa  beeir  pralraoted  muoh  beyond 
our  expectationa.  Two  weeka  after  our  arrival,  the  apaa* 
modio  cholera  broke  out  with  a  great  d^pree  of  malignity. 
The  weather  waa  Tory  warm^  and  thiare  were  dwwera  from 
day  to  day.  The  intemperate  habita  of  Uie  men,  and  their 
nunmer  of  living,  probably  Kad»  tendency  to  induoe  the 
diaeaae.  Three  of  Um  company  died ;  and  aeveral  othen 
b«raly  aurvived,  through  the  bleaaing  of  God  upon  the  ••• 
iridaooa  atleatfona  of  Doot.  Whitman,  my  aaaooiate,  and  the 
Area  nae  of  powerfbl  medioinea.  MoA,  had  it  not  been  for 
Ma  auoueaaftil  praotioa,  the  men  would  hava  diaperaad,  and 
the  CAraYwi  would  have  fkiled  of  going  to  the  ]Aaoa  of  ren* 
detvotta.  TMa  wIm  plainly  aem  and  frankly  adtnowl^dgad . 
Thia  alarming  diaeaae  waa  tfia  maaaa  of  aAodag  met  dm* 
parture  aooner  than  It  odwrwiaa  woirid  have  taken  plaoo. 
iff  iHu  neeeatary  to  -haaten  to  tiie  higher  pvairieo,  aa  the 
only  praapeot  of  eaoaping  the  4krtkeT  ravagea  of  the  dia<> 
aaae.  Not  a  aingle  new  oaae  oeourred'  after  w»  laeom* 
menoed  our  joum^.  Thia  ailifotivo  aooaiga,  ao  ftur  ••  it 
reqieotied  Dr.  W.  and  myaelf,  waa  providaiitial.  The  a«> 
riatanee  we  rendered  the  alek,  and  ^  medical  akfll  of  the 
Odctor,  ooaveited  thoae  into  permanent  firieada,  who  had  ao 
dirfiked  the  restrainta  which  our  preaenee  iialpPaed  upon 
them,  diat,  as  they  afierwards  oonftaaed,  tb&y  had  plotted 
oar  death,  and  intended  on  the  flrat  oonvenient  ocoaaion  to 
put  their  purpoee  in  ezeoutioii.  *  s  j4^;,vi*^»*t  * 


mm&smmmmmmiiMi^^ 


I»»«ll" 


Mry  {wopi*  tiMn 
I  of  oountrjr,  and 
■mong  them  U 
nent,  whtoii  th«y 
grow  ■uapioiou*, 

ed  much  beyond 
arrival,  the  epM* 
;i«e  of  malignity, 
ire  ehowere  from 
e  men,  and  their 
oy  to  indnee  the 
nd  aeveral  others 
Gkid  apoB  the  as- 
aMooiato,  and  tlie 
id  it  not  bee«  fer 
if  diipened,  and 
the  ]Aaoe  of  ruio 
lyadtnowl^dgwi. 
•Aoting  0»  d». 
liaTe  taken  piaoe. 
'  pvairiei^  as  tiie 
ivagee  of  thadte- 
after  tM  laoon* 
Mife,  as  ftur  aa  it 
lential.  Tike  aa. 
dieal  ridll  ot  the 
(ends,  who  had  ao 
>ee  finpoeed  upoA 
thiy  had  plotted 
enient  ocoaaion  to 


mmmimm 


MvasM  09  A  oanur.  m 

WhUst  at  Bellevua,  a  maa  by  the  name  of  Qarrio,  a  half 
blood  Indian  ciiief  ofthe  Ariokan  nation,  waa  ahot  under 
very  aggmvatad  drounetanoea.  Oarrio  and  hia  fiumily 
were  residing  in  a  log  oabin  on  the  Ptpillon  river.  Six  or 
•even  men,  half  intoxioated,  w«nt  down  to  hia  houae  in  the 
night,  oalled  him  up,  took  him  away  a  half  mUe,  and  ahot 
him  wbh  fix  balla,  aoalped  him,  and  left  him  onburied. 
The  reaaon  they  aarigned  for  doing  so,  waa,  that  ha  waa  a 
bad  man,  and  had  killed  white  men.  If  he  waa  guilty,  who 
authoffiaed  them  to  take  hia  liAi  t  The  Ariokara  nation  will 
remember  this,  and  probably  take  revenge  on  lome  inno. 
eentpemma.  Thia,  I  apprehend,  iatha  way  Indiaa  wan  ara 
often  praduaad.  While  wa  oharge  tba  Indiana  with  iny»ta. 
rate  feraoioiMmeaa  and  bhiunan  brutality,  we  Ibifat  tljfe  too 
numarotts  wroBga  and  outragee  oonunitted  u  Km  thann,  wUoh 
Incite  tkian  to  wvai^.  They  aaanot  arfrahaod  aa^  do 
juatioe  to  auoh  oftndera.  Or  if  they  oould,  wwiMit  notbe 
published  aa  a  gKoaa  liidian  BMvrdar  and  aggiaadnw,  and  a 
wtt  of  anatmlnatlwi  baoomwaoadagaiaa»thamf  When 
Indian  oftwoai  a»a  paoalalmad,'  wa  hear  only  one  aide  of  the 
•IM7»  aodlba  other  willnot  bo  hMfd  untU  tM  UmI  fiaotday. 

Monday*  Jteo  9M.  After  ao  Ung  dalfty,  wo  io^ooto' 
RMOood  ow  JQwnoy  kf  tho  «« fcr  west."  Tho  BUwk  HUls 
are  to  bo.ow  M«t  stoppit^  ^m*.  Tho  oanvan  atMrtod 
yoolontoy.  Wo  paassd  over  a  rioh  oxtansivopmirie,  but 
ao  poorly  watered,  that  wo  ^  not  find  a  aUroaro  through 
tho  whole  day.  In  the  aftonoon  wo  had  lo  ride  ia  a  he§vy, 
ooU  ndn,  io  oonsequonoo  of  whioh  I  booamo  muoh  ohillod. 
OvortoA  tho  oaravani  and  ehoampod  before  night  on  o  high 
piairie,  whofo  wo  oould  tod  hut  Uttk  Food,  and  it  Wfo  dif* 
ftottlttomakeafiM.  We  had  for  supper  ooaraa  bread  mMe 
of  com,  and  soma  baeoo.    Tho  ohange  from  the  comforts  to 


iWiii'Wiiii'MTC"'^ 


I 


iF*i|i.i| 


41  AMOM. 

the  bara  nsoMMrlM  of  lift  wm  tiyiag;  but  whtn  \h»A 
wmpp«d  myaelf  in  my  blanksts  wad  laid  down  upon  Um 
ground  ta  rapoM  for  th«  night,  I  fiiU  thankAil  to  Ood  ht  hi* 
goodaoM. 

Bbing  now  beyond  all  whita  inhabit•ntl^  in  an  Indian 
country,  and  not  knowing  what  the  eventAil  future  may 
unfold,  I  thought  I  oould  give  up  all  my  private  intarealB 
for  the  good  of  the  periehing  heathen,  if  I  oould  ba  inatnt. 
HMntal  of  their  temporal  and  eternal  welftM.  Come  lift 
or  death,  t  oould  aay, "  thy  will  be  done."  I  felt  etreag  oook 
fidlmoe  that  Ood  would  protect  and  provide  for  u%  and  da* 
rived  great  oonaolation  from^the  promiee,  '<  Lo,  I'  am  with 
you  always."  The  very  pelting  of  the  etorm  upon  our  tent 
had  aomething  in  it  eoothing,  and  oaloulated  to  awaken  the 
feeling  that  God  was  near. 

On  the  9M,  the  storm  still  oontinuad,  and  we  did  not  M> 
move  our  woampmsnt. 

T6r/aRlvnooii'on'tito  S4tlt{  went  forwwrd  os  oar  way  and 
oRMHuI  the  Fapilkm  river,  which  oooasioned  mooh  dalay  to 
get  the  ba^fage,  wagons,  and  animals  ovar.  We  dUd  nM 
fioid  a  suitable  plaoa  for  eaoamping  where  we  ooald  be  ao. 
oomnMNktMl  wMi  wood  and  watwr  until  aboot  suoiat;  and 
before  wa  oould  pitch  oar  twit,  a  thondnr  storm,  wUoh  had 
been  gathering  for  a  long  time,  eame  down  upon  us  with 
gnat  violence,  aoocmpwiied  with  wind  and- Hail.  The  ani- 
mals of  the  caimvan  fled'iardUfcnnt  dlireeticms,  some  paokMl 
and  some  unpacked.  P  h|Ml  only  time  to  unpack  my  mole 
■ad  let  him  go,  and  it  was  with  much  difficultjr  I  ooaM  faoM 
my  horse,  which  luui  become  almoat  fhtntk  under  the  beat- 
ing hail,  nor  did  I  escape  without  some  cmUnsiaos.  The 
lightning  was  very  frequent,  and  the  thunder  was  almost 
ene  continual  roar.    After  a  while  the  fury  of  the  storm 


ftiWiililiij»i|ii'.ifilt»'*- 


»iiMt4{  mt'  ^f!«; !;.;,"'■,  .t'-i^'".'  i  \^y^i^J^^^^fl^''''*^^^>^'^^ 


MfetOTWM 


mm 


mumtm 


*«MS|^!«9l||r 


but  wbM  IlMd 

down  upon  Um 

^1  to  God  l»r  hU 

Its,  in  an  Indian 

itftil  future  may 

private  intarMto 

oould  ba  inaUru< 

bo*.    Cona  lifc 

I  faltatraagoo»> 

»  for  u»,  and  d«* 

«  Lo,  I  am  with 

irm  upon  our  tant 

id  to  awalien  tha 

nd  wa  did  not  !•• 

I  o«  oar  way  and 
lad  muoh  dalay  to 
•r.  Wa  did  not 
I  wa  oonld  ba  ao« 
tout  suBsal;  and 
itonn,  wUohhad 
iwn  upoB'  UB  with 
rHail.  Theaiii- 
iona,  soma  paeind 
unpaak  my  male 
lulQr  I  oottM  hold 
ic  under  the  beat- 
oontuaiaaa.  The 
inder  waa  almoet 
Fury  of  tbe  itorm 


A  vuon».T  HnnM.  w 

abated,  and  la  tha  dark  wa  pitohed  our  tent  and  get  our 
bagfafe  into  it,  but  were  not  able  to  make  a  fire.  We  took 
•uoh  aupper  a«  we  oould  pirovide  with  our  ooaree  btaad  and 
baooo,  without  light  and  without  Are,  and  laid  ounwivea 
down  to  reet.  During  the  night  there  were  eeveral  ahowera 
wMoh  created  rivulate,  eome  of  whioh  found  th«ir  way  un. 
dw  our  tent.  Toward*  morning  we  alept,  and  aroee  aoaoa- 
what  refreahed. 

The  morning  of  the  SlStJi  waa  very  ploaaant,  and  afibrded 
a  good  opportunity  to  dry  our  baggage,  and  for  the  caravan 
to  colleot  together  their  paoke  of  gooda,  which  were  eoat> 
tared  over  the  prairie.  After  having  epent  the  forMioon  in 
dryfaig  and  adjoating  them,  we  went  forward  and  arrivad  at 
the  Blkhom,  a  very  oonaidarabla  river.  For  oonvayanoe 
over  this  rivwr,  wa  oooatruoled  a  boat  of  a  wagon  body,  ea 
oovared  with  undiaawd  ddna  a*  to  makj  it  nearly  water 
ti|^.  The  method  waa  very  good,  and  wa  oommanoad 
oraaaing,  biM  night  eame  oo  bafera  we  flniahad,  and  there- 
fera  wa  aaoampad  on  tha  aaat  aide.  Tha  oouotry  haia  1* 
aBeallaat,  and  loiarably  auppUad  with  wood. 

0«  tha  iMMi^  we  eaatinaed  eanying  over  our  baggage, 
and  fiahhad  ofawlag  at  half  after  twelve,  after  whioh  wa 
traveled  tan  mllaa  np  tha  EUkhom,  and  alopped  for  tha  algM^ 

On  the  avth,  aroee  very  early  and  poreuad  our  jouin^, 
and  made  good  pragraea  until  three,  P.  M.  when  we  mat 
Meaek.»  Can^rbeH  and  SuUette  with  a  amall  oaravan,  re- 
turning ftom  the  Blaok  Hilla.  When  mountain  tra^re 
meet  under  aoeh  olreumataaoee  there  muat  be  mutual  ax- 
ohaagee  of  flrieodahip,  more  eeramonioua  and  oompUoatad 
than  oan  be  gone  through  with  in  the  paaeing  *<  how  do  you 
do.**  The  two  earavana  encamped,  in  due  form,  and  at  a 
re^fMOtful  dietanoe  ft<om  eaoh  other. 


■fw" 


f'' 


v9  %VfVM  FMWWTSt 

«  ttUwUi,  Mth.  Th*  Mwvam  oontiiiuatf  h«T«  t)irMif(tr<lia 
d«y.  TiuM  g«v«  us  an  opportuntty  to  rcwl,  snd  to  fttlMi  lb 
dtrotkm*]  escwroiwa  in  our  tent. 

Ob  tfto  Mlh,  pMMd  •y«r  mhT  tr»vel«d  «  good  (fliMuir?  «p 
SImH  OTMk.  Aa  ■  trarelcr,  f  thetnld  \m  guilty  of  iMfkiot 
of  duty,  if  r  did  net  glv*  •  dctoripiion  of  thld  Motkin  of 
•owntry ,  twlongiiig  to  th«  OtOM  on  tha  Mat,  wid  th«  PftwnaM 
on  th«  wodt.  For  about  twentv.fiv*  milM  Binoe  we  oroMwd 
th«  Bikhom,  betwsm  tlliii  riv«r  and  the  Platte,  whieh  an 
iMreabou*  ten  mile*  apmt,  there  ia  not  a  einfleMH.  Ittorioh 
hettonr  land,  oovered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  gnm.  Ift* 
oountry  oould  be  more  inviting  to- the  Humer,  withoeily  OM 
exoepdan,  the  want  of  wood  land .  The  latlttt^  i«*uflMeaU 
ly  h%h  to  be  hMlthy  ;  and  aathe  olhnale grewe  wannerito 
we  travel  weat,  until  we  appraaoh  the  anow-topped  mooB' 
taina,  there  ia  a  degree  of  mildoeaii,  not  experienoed  eaM  ef 
the  Alleghany  moiMtainw.  The  time  will  oone,  and  pvohtifc 
bly  M  net  Ihr  diataat,  when  Uiia  oountry  wll)  be  asveved  wMl 
•  deoee  populatfoa.  The  eartii  waa  onMAed  fer  thehaMmi 
don  of  man,  and  Ibr  a  theatre,  oMwMelt  Oed  will  oMuittM 
JvlipmrfimtieaMki  hie  menl  govewaaat  •nuerng  hii  meml 
eiMtviw,  and  tberefiNV'  the  eartii,  aooovdrif  to  dhrlae  jm- 
dfothm,alMll  he  given  to  the  people  of  CM.  Ahkoo^  te. 
Mela  may  aneor,  and  aooflbra  mookj  yet  God  will  aoeoro- 
pUah  Ma  daaigna,  and  fulfil  ennry  promiae  ooUkafaiad  ii»  hb 
woid.  Then  tMi  amashg  cxteafof  moel^fcitlle  tend  will 
net  eontfaiHe  to  be  die  wanderiaft  grmmd  of  a  Ibw  thenanod 
bdiaea,  with  only  a  eery/Mt  aeree  onder  oultivatioa ;  nor 
wiHmillkmaof  toneof  graoa  grow  ap'to  rot  upon  the  gfowid 
or  to  he  btHnifld  up  with  the  film  enl^Aed  t»«we4^  over  iia 
prairie,  to  diaenoumber  it  of  iter  apoahuMotiet  bwPdNi.  Tb 
herda  of  b\iflklo  which  on«e  fitftened  upon  tfieee 


■■  i 
»  ? 


HHI 


mmm 


I,  mod  to  mtimad  lb 

I  good  «fMMin;  «(> 
guilty  of  ti«|lMM 
of  Ihlfl  MetkHH  of 
,  wid  the  PkwiMM 
laJiMMwe  opowd 
PUtto,  whieh  »n 
ifl«MH.  IttorMi 
«rtli  of  grew-  Nb 
RMr,  with  only  mm 
)$k\3fi*  imnifftoimt* 
I  giovt  wtnmr  m 
iiow.to|ip«d  mouB* 
«p«rknoed  eMt«f 
I  ooow,  aad  pvote* 
illbeaovvvdIwMl 
MdferthalwMtai 
6ed  vtti  oMuitllM 
MiMiaf  hii  menl 
|i  If  to  dhrla*  pM> 
9d.  Ahkoo^  la- 
God  will  MOOIB- 
MMt^ailMHl  illllll 

of  a  fcw  thenMod 
r  oultiTntfoB ;  nor 
«t  upan  tiM  ffowd 
I  l»swM^  OT«r  Hm 
Tt» 


HN^N 


1 

i  J 


too  ywe  modi— 


uMnt 


"•?-* 


OV  TU  VLATn 


M 


•M fOM ;  mmI  tlw4kMr  wihwii  omw  oraf^MKl  tlN»  gmM  Imv* 
Mmfftmnd ;  awi  tiM  MitekipM  h*v«  lUd  away  }  uMi  alMll 
•olkwl*  raign  Iwra  lUl  iIm  a-Ml  of  Hum  f  No:  Imm  iImII 
te  hMwl  tiM  did  of  biMiiMaa,  and  Um  o<i  ^h-golag  haU  rhall 
MMMd  &r  and  wida.  Tha  quaation  ia,  ky  whom  ahall  thia 
ragiun  af  oountry  ba  iniiabltad  7  ii  ia  plain  tliat  tha  ladi- 
MM  uadar  thair  praaaot  oirouinataaoaa  wltl  navtir  nwllipty 
•ad  All  tUa  land.  Tkay  muat  ba  braufht  undwr  tha  inlltt. 
mmol  <dwiUiAtion  and  Chi4atiaiili|y,  or  thay  will  ooolimM 
ton«ilaw«y,  lutil  aolUim  mill  ramala  of  tham  but  tha  i«l. 
iaa  IxHd  in  mnaaama,  aad  acna  Mataaioal  raw>nla.  Phi. 
iaathionraadtha  aMKoy  of  (;hxi  plaad  in  thair  bahaif. 

Wa  w«M  awakanai  an  Iha  tOth,  at  Iha  «f«t  bnaUac  of 
iha(lay,hythaaaaalaall,*<oat,a«»;  fMfitpy«wrBMilaa)" 
W«  tnwe!«d  oalfl  ana  oU>laaA(,  P.  M.  Hwra  than«ight  ho«f% 
wWb  «a  iaaltad  aad  braakflulad.  Wa  want  agaia  an  oar 
misf*  •wi  cama  to  tha  Lou|»  fork  of  tha  Platta,  aad  ato^tad 
ferihaJtight.  lfa«of  tha«iaaBtry.a««rwhidii»atiavaM 
to.4ay  ^m  a  lolliag  imitia.  Thaia  ia  lui^off  ia  thia  aa»> 
tka  of  ooontry  to  iatanai  tha  faah^.  I  did  aot  aaa  a 
aingla  atona,  afiaryaaaiBg  tha  Papttlaa  to  tUa  piaoa,  exa^p*. 
ing  a  Ihv  an^l  onaa  ia  tha  plaaa  what*  wa  oioaMd  thai 
auaaah  aad  whkifa  oo  that  aoeouat  ia  «>aUad  ttooUbid.  It 
ia  oaa  of  Ow  pa<!uUaritia««r4ha  dialaoti^  tha  paqpla  in  tha 
waitommoata^ataa»  to  oali  maaa  stooa^  raoka.  Aad  thcia. 
iua  thay  ipeak  of  throwing  a  rook  at  a  bird,  or  at  a  man. 
Thaia  aia  no  foraata  ia  thaae  waatam  ragiona.  Tha  ataad- 
owa  upraad  out  alnwat  without  bounda.  Thera  an  only 
bara  aad  thara  wMna  olu«B|w  of  traea;  and  tha  rirer;  aad 
aaoaUar  atraaraa  ara  akirtad  with  ootton  wooa.  Uiaa  and  wi]. 
Iowa.  Whatovar  piopriaQr  thara  onoa  waa,  thare  ia 
iiow,  in  oaUing  tha  Indiaaa,  ohildren  of  tha  ibreat. 


il  luitiiaii  6*  wmutnm, 

TV  UMitmomMwr  •Mod  Uhdmy,  at  notm,  at  M*. 

W«kM«i«y,  July  !■«.  I  r«tt»a  the  Im(  night  m  qaJi^y 
M  I  thoaid  h*v«  doM  uimh  •  food  Iwd,  hi  •  oiviUMd 
tamnry  ;  mmI  wm  ehMrftil  in  oommittkig  mywJf  to  G<id,  ts 
■w«1m  in  thia,  or  in  tha  •Mnwl  warlil,  m  hm  thtmH  diwwi. 

W«  h«v«  •  ■mall  twit  nMd«  of  otmrm  iwtton  olo«h,  ferm- 
faig  •  oonff.  AlWir  •Btllnff  thli^  w«  iitow  aw.y  o«r  bufgtg* 
•0  M  to  le«v«  »  ■!>«»  In  the  cmttn  for  our  lodnlngt.  Mjr 
kid  !■  imuW  hy  ««t  iprMiding  d<»*n  t  lKi«hlo  •Wn,  ufM 
thiR  •  h«nr  Ain,  then  two  or  three  Haoliinew  blenkete,  nnd 
my  poitmuiieAu  oonetitutea  my  |tillow. 

We  proceeded  to-dey  •  ftwr  milee  up  the  Loupe  hrk,  end 
luitfipeetedly  found  •  goad  fer^g  pi«».  where  we  orawed 
the  tivm,  whteh  in  this  plaoe  ie  neerly  •  ndle  wide.  After 
Hoing  n  fow  mllee  op  the  rirer,  we  heltMl  for  the  nij^ht. 
The  mMiMr  of  our  enoMoping.  la  to  form  •  inrge  hollow 
•quwre,  enoompaeainf  en  area  of  about  an  aore,  having  the 
Hft  on  one  aida ;  three  wagona  ftmnhn^  a  part  of  another 
aide,  eonUng  down  to  the  river  ;  and  three  more  in  Hm  mmm 
manner  on  the  oppoaite  aide ;  and  tfte  pa<A»geeao  arranged 
in  paraab,  about  three  re^  apart,  aa  to  Ml  up  the  rear,  and 
tlM  aidae  not  oooupied  by  the  wagona.  The  horaea  and 
mulea,  near  the  middle  at  the  day,  are  turned  out  under 
goard,  to  feed  for  two  houra ;  and  the  aame  again  towarda 
night,  uattfl  aft«r  aunaal,  when  they  are  taken  up  and  brou^-M 
iMo  the  hollow  aquare,  and  featened  with  ropea  twelve  feat 
leng,  to  pioketa  driven  firmly  into  the  froimd.  The  men 
ate  divided  Into  rnnall  oompaniea,  aMtioned  at  the  aeveral 
pMoeis  of  gooda  and  wagona,  where  Uiey  wrap  themaetvea 
in  tbdr  Manketa  and  reat  for  the  night ;  fm  whole,  haw- 
tver,  are  formed  into  afac  diviaiona  to  keep  guard,  relieving 
each  other  every  two  houra.     Tbb  ia  t»  prevent  hoetile 


^mgn^ 


•lit*. 

t  night  M  qui«f1y 
4,  in  •  oiviliMti 
nrjrwIftoCkid.io 
h«  ilMMiUi  (Hr«el. 
mtton  olo«h,  term. 
w»3r  our  lw«g«f(e 
If  loHftlngt.  My 
uAlo  tMn,  ufmi 

t  Loapa  fturk,  Mid 
wh«ve  w«  ofMMwl 
nil«  wl«i«.  Aft<«r 
Itad  <br  the  t^y 
m  •  large  hollow 
r  Mf*,  havhig  ^w 
•  (wrt  of  siioihor 
»  more  in  tfw»  mrw 
ImgMtoarnuigadi 
I  ap  the  rmr,  uid 
The  home  and 
tamed  out  under 
me  again  towarda 
[en  up  and  brou^-Ht 
I  ropee  twelve  fcet 
roond.  The  men 
tod  at  the  Mveral 
f  wrap  themeelvee 
;  Am  whole,  hew. 
pguaid,  relievinf 
t»  prevent  hoetile 


we* 


Indiam  fram  fkiling  upnn  im  hy  >urpriw»,  or  (doming  into  tiw 
•  amp  l>x  aiealU)  aitd  taJiiNg  mwmy  rMtmr  horwHi  or  p«:luigr« 
«f  good*.  We  were  permilleil,  by  fevor,  to  pttoh  our  (eii( 
n«'«t  to  the  rivor,  half  way  bttwAt^n  Iho  two  wingn,  whirh 
made  our  aitiiation  a  little  more  retired. 

Nothing  of  apeoial  intorsat  oocurreii  on  thr  imymd.  On 
the  thiid,  wfl  pMMil  the  vilUgftit  of  th»'  Tepegn  «n<i  KepuMI- 
oan  Pawneo  IndiniM.  Thews  Imtiann  have  dwelling*  whioh 
appear  MbitlMtial  and  Homt*wh«i  a<l«|it«Hl  to  o«>infi)rt.  Many 
of  the  Fawn<N)  Loupn  isenir  to  u«,  and  rtw««ivr><l  ua  with 
•great  civility  and  kimlnMH.  Big  Ax,  their  aeomMl  ohief,  had 
uharge  of  thia  party.  He  ia  a  man  of  dignitUxl  appearance, 
aiid  hie  oauntenauoe  is  expreaaive  of  intelligence  and  bepev. 
uienofl.  Ho  ia  very  Ari«ndly  iv;  ,vlUUi  mm.  Tlieae  IndiaiM 
were  going  out  upon  their  Nunmier  hunt,  by  the  aame  routo 
we  wePB  purauing,  and  were  not  willing  wo  ahould  go  on  be- 
fore them,  Icet  we  should  frighten  away  the  btitfalo. 

They  manifested  their  friendship  by  inviting  un  to  fraats  ; 

and  as  we  may  attend  half  a  iloxf^n  in  a  day  without  Ijytng 

surfeited,  an  explanation  may  not  be  out  of  place.     Big  Ax 

gave  the  first  invitation;    and  as  it  is  not  customary  Ibr 

those  who  provide  the  feast  to  sit  down  with  their  guesta,  ho 

and  his  associates  sat  in  dignitiod  Hilnnoe  on  ono  side  of  the 

lodge,  while  tliose  of  us  who  partook  of  tho  fesHt,  occupied  the 

oontre.    The  daughters  of  Big  Ax  served  us  on  tho  oceaaion, 

ami  bountifully  helped  us  to  boiled  corn  and  boanti.     Such 

are  their  oustomH,  that  to  avoid  giving  offence,  wo  must  Mt 

nil  that  is  set  b««foro  us,  or  take  it  away  ;  and  Mr.  Pontenello 

tnok  what  remained.     In  the  evening  we  were  invited  to  two 

others.     The  first  consisted  of  boiled  corn  and  dried  pimip- 

kins.'and  the  other  of  boiled  buffalo  moat.  '  The  next  mora* 

ing  we  also  gavf  the  principal  chiofM  a  feast,  setting  before 

ft 


/m 


4, . 


14  CHAMOBS  or  TBI  SIVBt. 

them  all  the  variety  which  our  baoon  and  ooarae  brwd 
oourd  furnish,  having  it  in  our  power  to  add  a  dish  of  ooflRw, 
of  which  luxury  we  partook  for  this  once  on  our  whole 

journey. 

Amidst  the  uniformity  of  praiiie  scenery,  there  is  yet 
riome  variety.     It  was  curious  to  marli  the  alterations  which 
time  and  flood  have  made  in  the  channel  of  this  river. 
Formeriy,  perhaps  not  a  few  centuries  ago,  the  river  ran  a 
hundred  feet  higher  than  at  present,  and  it  is  owing  to  the 
yielding  nature  of  tl»e  soil  that  its  waters  are  so  very  tur. 
bid.    The  water  of  the  Loupe  Fork,  however,  comparative- 
ly  faking,  is  quite  clear.     This  section  of  country  ofiers 
•n  interesting  field  for  bounical  research.    Since  crossing 
the  Elkhom,  I  have  noticed  nine  different  species  of  graw, 
moel  of  whifeh  a«5  entirely  new.    The  flowering  plants  are 
very  numerous  and  beautiful,  and  especially  tiie  roue,  which 
is  found  of  almost  every  hue.    Thermometer,  at  noon,  90®. 
July  4th.    This  is  a  day  of  great  noise  and  bustle  in  the 
states.    Oratott  speak  of  the  deeds  and  aohieverttento  of  our 
fore&there:  tiieir  audiences  catch  the  spirit  of  patriotism. 
Kot  sc  wlUi  our  company.     Having  almost  expatriated 
themselves,  they  had  forgotten  their  nation's  birth-day ;  and 
knowing  that  Uieir  days  of  indulgence  would  bo  seasons 
of  reveling,  I  forbore  to  remind  them  of  it.     How  suitable 
would  be  a  rational  religious  expression  of  gratitude  to 
Heaven,  iriBtcad  of  tfie  confusion  and  riot,  which  are  the 
common  demonstrations  of  joy  on  such  occasions.    Ther- 
mometer at  96®  at  noon. 

On  the  fifth.  Which  was  the  Sabbath,  the  caravan  went 
forward  a  few  miles  and  then  encamped.  The  Indians  were 
constanriy  calling  at  ou,r  tent  Uirough  the  day.  It  wrt  pain- 
ful to  witness  their  poor  degraded  conditio^  ignorant  of  God 


iNp*' 


4^ 


and  coarse  braad 
ddadishofooiiira, 
Bce  on  our  whole 

lery,  there  is  yet 
B  ftltenttioiM  which 
Del  of  this  river, 
go,  the  river  ran  a 
it  is  owing  to  the 
Bare  so  very  tur- 
ever,  comparative- 
a  of  country  ofibrs 
h.    Since  crossing 
(It  species  of  grow, 
bwering  plants  are 
ally  the  rose,  which 
meter,  at  noon,  90". 
m  and  bustle  in  the 
lohieveilients  of  our 
spirit  of  patriotism, 
almost  expatriated 
on's  birth-day ;  and 
»  would  be  seasons 
f  it.     How  suitable 
ion  of  gratitude  to 
riot,  which  are  the 
I  occasions.    Thar- 

t,  the  caravan  went 
.  The  Indians  were 
le  day.  It  waS  pain- 
tio%  ignorant  of  God 


■mm~:P!'msrr  -giRssr-.® ; 


MtanoRAkiM.  m 

and  salvation,  and,  for  want  of  a  knowledge  of  their  lan- 
guage, to  be  unable  to  point  them  to  the  Savior,  or  teach 
them  their  obligations  to  their  Maker,  and  their  duty  to  turn 
to  him  with  their  whole  heart.  I  hope  and  pray  that  the 
Pawnee  mission  may  prosper ;  that  the  disposition  which 
Messrs.  Dunbar  and  Allis  manifest  to  go  with  the  Indians 
and  live  as  they  live,  may  be  followed  up,  until  their  t>  >.- 
ing  and  influence  are  felt,  and  the  Indians  shall  locate  them- 
selves upon  their  lands,  under  the  influence  of  Christianity 
and  civilization.  The  mode  which  Messrs.  D.  and  A.  have 
n.6ofAed  of  going  with  the  Indians  where  they  go,  appears  to 
be  the  right  one,  and  must  be  generally  adopted  to  bring  the 
numerous  wandering  nations  and  tribes  to  the  knowledge  of 
Christ. 

It  is  all  impo^rtant  thkt  the  misslcmary  should  be  able  to 
speak  to  the  heathen  in  the  language  in  which  they  were 
bom.  It  is  also  important  that  the  Indians  settle  down  and 
cultivate  the  soil ;  but  how  can  they  be  induced  to  do  this 
before  they  are  taught  ?  An  interpreter  may  be  employed 
for  awhile,  but  the  missionary  must  become,  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, his  own  interpreter.  And  why  can  he  not  learn  the 
Indian  language  as  well  as  the  trader  and  hunter  ?  He  can, 
if  he  will  exercise  as  much  self-denial. 

On  the  sixth,  we  left  the  Loups  Fork,  very  early  m  (he 
morning,  in  company  with  the  Pawnees,  and  direotf  i  our 
course  south-west  for  the  Platte  river.  Towards  evening, 
we  had  a  thunder  storm  with  heavy  rains,  which  continued 
through  most  of  the  night ;  but,  protected  by  our  tent,  we 
slept  so  soundly,  that  our  meat  was  stolen  from  us ;  and  in 
our  circumstances,  though  aa\y  about  six  pounds,  it  was  a 
sensible  loss. 

After  we  came  to  the  Platte,  we  pursued  our  way  up  the 


^ 


m  MO  juc,  A  VAvmi  oiur. 

riwr,  which  is  broMl,  hut  not  vtrjr  d««p,  m  Ito  bum  Mi- 
catM.  The  oountry  bsgiiu  to  diminish  in  its  Ibrtilltjr,  but 
still  is  very  good.  We  were  prerented  flma  nuddng  the 
pragrvM  we  might  have  done,  if  the  Indiuis  woyld  have 
permitted  us  to  go  on  and  leave  them.  Themeuoftheoara* 
van  began  to  complain  of  the  delay,  and  had  reason  to  do  so, 
having  notliing  to  eat  but  boiled  oom,  aad  no  way  to  obtain 
any  thing  more  beibre  finding  hufiklo. 

The  intellectual  powers  of  theae  Indiana  are  very  good, 
but  need  cuhivation.  They  are  food  of  ornaments,  and  not 
having;  the  same  means  of  gratifying  their  vanity  as  civilised 
people  have,  they  resort  to  almost  any  thing  to  decorate  4heir 
peiaoos ;  suoh  as  poroupina  quills,  beaih,  wreaths  of  graas 
and  flow(»rs,  brass  rings  upon  their  wrists,  birds'  feathen, 
and  claws  of  wild  beasts.  The  daw*  of  a  griisly  bear  are 
aa  omaoiant  of  the  first  order,  and  the  tails  of  white  wolvee 
are  in  high  ntJrrffAvtif  But  their  iavorita  aad  aUnoM  uni> 
veTsal  omamant  is  painting  their  fttoes  with  vermilion. 

Th«se  heathen,  like  all  others,  are  ignorant  of  the  benign 
influence  of  dm  gospel,  and  therefore,  while  they  have  many 
interesting  traits  of  character,  are  cruel  to  their  old  men  and 
women.  The  women  are  compelled  to  do  all  the  work— 
the  men  only  hunt  and  go  to  war.  Having  but  few  horses, 
when  they  journey,  they  place  burdens  upon  the  old  men  and 
women,  and  even  upon  the  Uind  and  lame— and  upon  their 
dogs.  I  did  not  see  among  these  Indians  a  single  person 
having  any  natural  deformity,  not  may  one  who  appeared  to 
be  deficient  in  common  sense. 

July  9th.  To^lay  Big  Ax  came  to  my  tent  and  sat  by 
meatongtime.  Never  did  I  so  much  wish  to  converse  with 
any  man  and  tell  him  about  the  Savior,  and,  ftom  the  ex« 
pression  of  his  countenance,  I  tliought  he  desired  to  be  in- 


.-*,. 


I  it*  BUM  imii' 
ill  Ibrtilily,  but 
Dfoia  makiiigthe 
iaiw  woyld  have 
I  OMNI  of  the  earn* 
1  raaaon  to  do  ao, 
lo  vajr  to  oUain 

la  are  vory  f[ood, 
naoMiita,  and  not 
anityaaoiTiliaed 
( to  deooimte  their 
wreathe  of  ipra* 
I,  birds'  feathen, 
,  griisly  bear  are 
B  of  white  wolves 

I  vermilion, 
ant  of  the  benign 
B  they  have  many 
their  old  men  and 
lo  all  the  work— 
ig  but  few  horses, 
n  the  old  men  and 
H-«nd  upon  their 
I  a  single  person 
B  who  appeared  to 

r  tent  and  sat  by 
htoocnveisewith 
utA,  firom  the  ex* 
B  desired  to  be  in- 


ATTEMUrr  TO   KOSDIS. 


W 


struoted.  But  the  gift  of  tongues  was  not  imparted  to  me,' 
and  we  could  only  converse  with  the  language  of  aigns« 
whioh  is  &r  more  intelligible  than  I  had  anticipated. 

Capt.  Fontenelle,  by  a  large  present,  purshased  of  the  In- 
dians the  privilege  of  going  on  to-morrow  without  them. 
Our  men  oould  hardly  have  been  kept  in  subordination,  if 
they  had  not  consented. 

Towards  the  night  of  the  10th  we  had  an  uncommon 
Rtorm  of  thunder,  hail,  rai'\  and  wind.  The  horses  and 
mules  could  not  be  controlled,  and  turned  and  fled  in  all  di- 
rections before  the  storm.  The  whole  caravan  was  scatter- 
ed over  the  prairie ;  but  when  the  storm  abated,  they  wore 
again  collected  without  much  difficulty,  and  notliing  was 
lost.  If  any  hostile  band  of  Indians  had  been  about  us,  it 
would  have  been  easy  for  them  to  have  made  us  a  prey. 
But  the  Lord  not  only  rode  upon  the  storm,  but  was  also  near 
for  our  defense.  The  scene  was  alarming,  and  yet  grand 
and  truly  sublime. 

Sabbath^  12th.  We  are  in  a  land  of  d8<3ger8,  but  Qod  is 
our  preserver,  and  how  desirable  it  is,  that  his  mercieashould 
be  had  in  grateful  remembrance,  and  that  tha  portion  of  time, 
which  he  has  set  apart  as  holy,  should  be  obserrod  as  .suoh. 
The  caravan  traveled  a  part  of  the  day,  but  were  ondor  the 
necessity  of  stopping  in  cmsequence  of  rain,  whioh  wet  their 
packages.  It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  there  have  been  vari- 
ous providences,  which  have  thua  far  prevented  them  from 
traveling  much  upon  the  Sabbath.  But  tJils  day  iiaa  been 
one  of  great,  cmfusion  and  wickedness.  In  consequmoe  of 
the  HMD  bemg  drenched  with  nuny  whiskey  was  dealt  out 
freely^tokeepthaai  flromtakiBg  oold;  Most  of  Uiem  became 
much  ex«ited,  and  one,  wiio  iaok  an  active  part  in  killmg 

Garrio,  slabbed  a  man,  vitk  full  intent  to  have  pierced  his 

6* 


M  xtmcnfAL  puirr. 

Iieart ;  but  the  knife,  by  ■triking  a  rib,  tuimed  t^jide  »n<I 
only  made  a  deep  flesh  woun'*. 

I  think  I  know  the  feeling*  of  David,  when  he  expressed 
a  stnmg  desire  after  the  sanctuary  of  God,  and  to  dwell  in 
his  tabemaoie. 

July  ISth.  We  are  not  traveling  through  forests,  nor  a 
Bolitary  desert,  but  through  ^nMst  boundless  meadows,  that 
have  the  appearance  of  being  under  good  cultivation.  We 
see  no  fields  of  grain,  nor  habitatkms  of  civilised  men,  but 
meadows  adorned  with  a  great  variety  of  plants,  some  of 
which  appeared  to  be  gregarious.  CH\en  some  acres  are 
diversified  with  great  variety  of  colors  and  species. 

There  are  two  iqpeoies  of  plants  which  are  said  to  be  • 
sovereign  remedy  for  the  ^ison  of  the  rattle'Snake,  (he 
virtues  of  one  of  which  we  haJ  an  i^iportunity  of  testing. 
One  of  our  men  was  bitten  in  the  foot,  and  uefore  we  knew 
it  the  poison  had  so  for  progressed^  that  both  the  foot  and 
leg  had  become  much  inflamed  and  very  painful.  One  of 
these  plants  was  applied  to  the  parts  afiboted,  and  at  once 
the  man  was  convalescent,  and  in  a  few  houra  was  well. 
The  leaves  of  the  plant  re8end>le  those  of  the  blue  flag, 
except  that  they  are  serrated.  The  healing  properties  are 
ccotained  in  the  roots,  which  are  bruised  and  applied  to  the 
aifocted  parts.  Rattle-snakes  are  not  numerous.  These 
and  other  reptiles  are  prevented  fnmi  multiplying,  by  the 
fires  which  every  year  run  over  the  prairim. 

On  the  14th,  the  announcement  of  buSalo  i^Mnead  cheer- 
fulness and  animation  through  the  whole  caravan,  and  to 
men  whose  very  life  depended  on  the  droumstance,  it  was 
no  indifferent  event.  From  the  immense  herds  of  these  wild 
animals,  dispersed  over  these  beautiful  fields  of  nature,  we 
were  to  derive  oua  subsistence.      Although  several  were 


mmm 


1^91^'" 


W<IMIlfl|ii  .i"'^' 


ikned  kjide  and 

len  h«  •xpressed 
,  and  to  dwell  in 

|h  formta,  nor  k 
M  meadows,  that 
jultivation.  We 
iviliwd  men,  but 
r  plants,  some  of 

■ome  acres  aro 
I  species. 

are  said  to  be  a 

rattle-snake,  the 
tunity  of  testing. 

ucfore  we  knew 
loth  the  foot  and 
painful.  One  of 
ted,  and  at  once 

bourn  was  well, 
of  the  blue  flag, 
ng  properties  are 
ind  applied  to  the 
umerouB.  These 
iltiplying,  by  the 
iea. 
alo  iquread  cheer- 

caravan,  and  to 
lumstance,  it  was 
«rds  of  these  wild 
»Ids  of  nature,  we 
ugh  several  were 


WcrtAio.  m 

seen  i»>(i»y,  yet  our  hunters  wore  not  suooemful  in  obtain- 
ing many. 

I  had  heard  of  the  prairie  horse-fly,  but  was  not  awaro 
that  it  would  be  so  very  annoying  and  even  tormenting  to 
our  horses.  Its  bite  is  like  the  thrust  of  the  point  of  a  lan- 
cet, au<l  wlien  the  fly  is  surfeited,  or  is  brushed  ofi^  the  blood 
iiniiiediately  gushes  out.  When  the  caravan  is  in  close 
company,  there  being  about  two  hundred  horses  and  mules, 
the  number  of  the  flies  are  so  divided  that  they  are  more 
tolerable  ;  but  when  for  any  purpose  a  hors«  it  separated 
from  the  company,  he  is  severely  bitten  by  them.  On  one 
occasion,  when  I  rode  forward  to  And  a  oitMaing  place  over 
a  deep  muddy  stream  of  water,  they  oame  around  my  horse 
in  such  swarms  that  he  became  irantio,  and  I  was  obliged 
to  return  in  full  speed.  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  horse  '  -ft 
alone  in  the  season  of  these  flies  would  be  killed  by  them. 

The  next  day,  we  journeyed  as  usual,  and  about  noon 
arrived  at  the  Forks  of  the  Platte.  We  saw  a  large  herd  of 
bufialo,  from  which  we  obtained  a  good  supply  of  excellent 
meat.  These  animals,  with  their  shaggy  shoulders,  neck, 
and  heads,  make  a  very  majesti(!  appearance,  and  if  their 
natures  were  unknown,  would  bo  terrific.  But  they  arc 
timid  and  inofiensive,  showing  no  disposition  to  injure  any 
person,  except  in  self-defense  when  wounded  and  closely 
pursued.  Their  strength  is  great ;  and,  although  they  look 
clumsy,  they  run  very  swiftly,  h  requires  a  horse  of  more 
than  ordinary  speed,  to  outrun  them  for  any  considerable  time. 

llie  section  of  countiy  about  the  Forks  of  the  Platte  is 
very  plensant,  without  any  high  nxNintains  in  sight ;  but  at 
a  distance  beyond  the  widely  extended  rich  bottom  lands, 
blu&  of  various  forms  present  a  picturesque  scenery.  The 
entire  absence  of  forests  in  the  large  space  of  country  around, 


!^'S^f^ 


M  DBFBIfSIVI  nnAIATIONS. 

is  ft  defioionoy  which  cannot  be  easily  remedied  ;  but  prob- 
ably foreot  trees  might  bo  cultivated  to  advantage.     U  it  not 
highly  probable  that  mineral  coal  wili  be  found  here  as  well 
as  upon  the  prairies  in  the  western  states  ?    We  found  no 
wood  yesterday,  nor  to-day,  and  probably  shall  not  for  some 
days  to  oomo ;  and  therefore  we  have  been  under  the  neces- 
sity of  making  our  fires  with  the  dry  dung  of  the  buffalo. 
lyj  most  thoroughly  weather-beaten  is  selected,  and  proves 
to  be  a  better  substitute  for  common  fuel  than  we  had  anti- 
cipated.     Although  we  are  now  where  we  had  fears  of  find- 
ing the  Arickara  Indians,  the  death  of  whose  chief  has  been 
mentioned,  and  who  have  been  residing  near  this  place  for 
several  months  past,  yet  we  have  seer,  no  Indians  since  we 
left  the  Pawnees.     It  is  snpposed  they  have  gone  far  up  the 
south  Pork  of  the  Platte,  to  avoid  the  United  States  draggons, 
under  the  command  of  Col.  Dodge,  who  are  on  their  way  to 
call  them  to  account  for  their  conduct  towards  white  men, 
and  to  form  with  them  a  treaty  of  peace,  although  they  are 
not  fond  of  treaties  when  peace  is  to  be  observed  by  only  one 
of  the  parties.     They  intend  to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  the 
dragoons,  and  therefose  we  hope  to  pass  unmolested. 

We  took  our  course  up  the  north-west  Fork  of  the  Platte, 
and  towards  night  encamped  upon  its  bank  in  our  usual 
form,  using  particular  caution  to  bo  prepared  for  an  attack 
of  the  Ariokaras,  should  any  of  their  war  parties  be  about  us. 
Every  man  was  required  to  see  that  his  rifie  was  in  order, 
and  to  have  a  good  supply  of  powder  and  balls.  We  all 
slept  with  our  clothes  on,  so  that,  if  called  by  the  centincl's 
fire,  we  might  in  less  than  a  moment  be  tt&iy  fsir  aotk>n  ; 
but  the  night  passed  away  in  quietude,  and  M  ihe  first  break- 
ing C'l  the  day  we  were  awakened  by  th^  customary  call  of 
the  guide. 


AKTSUUVa. 


•I 


idied ;  but  prob< 
ntaffc.     Is  it  not 
iind  here  M  well 
We  found  no 
hall  not  for  some 
under  the  neccs- 
:  of  the  buffalo. 
!Cted,  and  proves 
lan  we  had  antN 
lad  fears  of  find- 
le  chief  has  been 
nr  this  place  for 
indians  since  wo 
I  gone  far  up  the 
States  draggons, 
)  on  their  way  to 
ards  white  men, 
Ithough  they  are 
irved  by  only  one 
if  the  way  of  the 
imolested. 
brk  of  the  Platte, 
nk  in  our  usual 
red  for  an  attack 
irties  be  about  us. 
ifle  was  in  order. 
I  balls.    We  all 
by  the  sentinel's 
bA'dy  r»r  aotk>n ; 
M  ihe  first  break- 
;u8lomary  call  of 


flaw,  on  the  lOtk,  the  buflklo  in  greater  numbera,  and 
nearer  than  previously.  They  are  loss  shy  than  thoae  we 
finl  found.  They  are  mora  majestic  than  the  elk,  but  icsii 
beautiful.  The  antelopes,  aom*  of  which  we  have  seen  for 
several  days  past,  are  becoming  veiry  numct  -ua,  and  their 
Hpeed  exceeds  that  of  any  animal  I  have  ever  oen.  Our 
hounds  can  do  nothing  in  giving  them  the  chase ;  for  the 
dogs  are  so  soon  left  far  in  the  rear,  that  they  do  not  follow 
more  than  ten  or  twenty  rods,  Iwfore  they  return,  looking 
ashamed  of  their  defeat.  Our  hunters  occasionally  take 
Momo  by  coining  upon  them  by  stealth.  When  they  are 
surprised,' they  start  forward  a  '  ery  small  space,  then  turn, 
and  with  high  lifted  heads,  stare  for  a  few  seconds  %t  the 
object  which  has  alarmed  them,  and  then,  with  a  half  whis- 
tling snuflT,  bound  off,  seeming  to  bo  as  much  upon  wings  as 
upon  feet.  They  resemble  the  goat,  but  are-  far  more  beau- 
tiful. Though  they  are  of  different  colors,  yet  they  are 
generally  red,  and  have  a  large,  fine,  prominent  eye.  Their 
flesh  is  good  for  food,  and  about  equal  to  venison. 

Ju!y  17th.  We  did  not  go  on  our  way  as  early  this 
morning  as  usual,  Laving  been  ietained  by  breaking  an 
axle-tree  of  one  of  our  wagons.  The  country  is  becoming 
more  hilly,  and  the  blutla  in  some  places  come  down  to  the 
river.  Herds  of  buflhlo  an  seen  in  almost  every  direction, 
and  they  are  so  numerous,  that  our  animals  find  scanty  pas- 
ture.  The  thermometer  stood  at  noon  at  86**.  Encamped 
a  little  below  Cedar  bluf&,  so  called  from  the  few  cedars 
ticattered  over  them,  which  promise  a  better  supply  of  fuel. 

Commenced  our  journey  on  the  18th,  at  our  usual  early 
hour,  to  travel  on  until  near  noon  before  broakfiut.  From 
the  change  of  vegetation  of  various  kinds,  and  birds,  &c. 
it  is  evident  we  are  ascending  into  higher  regions  of  coun- 


mmhmf 


n 


nKMfnW  WW9AUt. 


Uj,  mi  ut  fttmoiplMni  mora  rMomblinit  ^t  of  tb*  lf«w 
BnglMid  (iMtm.  At  we  mIvmioa,  the  flowering  plaiHe  •»• 
■beooming  lees  nnnuroue ;  vad  elthough  the  middle  of  the 
d*y  ie  rery  werm,  yet  the  nighte  end  moniiBg*  are  man 
eool.  The  eeoent  ie  m  gradtiel,  thet  the  change  ie  not  p«r- 
oepUble.  Rooka  begin  to  eppeer,  end  etill  we  ere  &r  tnm 
the  Rooky  Mountains.  Limeatone  of  light  brown  oolor  ii 
ibimd  in  the  blaflk,  laying  in  horijKintal  strata,  whioh  naigbt 
be  easily  worked  and'  to  any  extent.  Very  snail  Maek 
gnats,  hardly  dieoemible  by  the  naked  eye,  ha»e  been  nu- 
raeroue  and  very  annoying,  and  for  several  <Miye  we  rode 
with  silk  handlwroMeib  oloaely  tied  over  our  iwea  to  pro. 
teot  us  tnm  their  poieooous  bite. 

July  90th.  Thousands  of  buffido  were  seen  to.day,  and 
our  men  amused  thMuelvee  with  chasing  and  shooting  at 
them  ;  but  it  was  well  ibr  the  bu&ldthat  they  made  poor 
shots.  I  Mn  hardly  leooncile  it  with  a  good  eonsoienee,  to 
trills  with  the  life  even  of  the  moet  insignifioant  a.::naals,  yet, 
for  onoe,  I  felt  myself  powerfully  inolined  to  try  my  horse 
in  the  chase.  The  noble  oreature  enjoyed  the  sport,  and 
would  have  rushed  fearlemly  into  the  midst  of  them,  had  I 
not  held  him  in  check.  At  that  time,  not  being  sufficiently 
acquainted  with  this  •  niiee  of  amusement,  and  hitoiding 
to  make  sure  of  my  victim,  I  dismounted  in  order  to  take  a 
more  steady  aim  than  I  oould  otherwise  have  done ;  and  by  so 
doing,  as  our  guide  afterwards  informed  me,  placed  myself 
In  imminent  danger ;  ibr  the  animal,  when  wounded,  oAeii 
turns  upon  his  uMagooist  to  retaliate  his  injuries.  Fortu- 
nately^  though  I  wounded  one,  he  did  not  rise  upon  me,  and 
I  ratumed  to'  the  caravan  unccmsoious  of  danger. 

Badgers  iahaUt  thi*  part  of  the  country,  and  from  the 
Dvany  holee,  which  they  dig  in  the  ground  for  their  dwell. 


llgiiMiiiiiiii^^ 


Mil 


that  of  tlM  !V«w 
m0riaf(  pUnta  are 
ha  mi(tdl«  of  th* 
ttniufft  titt  mofF 
Bhang*  ifl  nek  par- 
II  we  an  fkr  flmn 
[ht  brown  color  ia 
rata,  which  nright 
/ary  Hnall  MmA 
lya,  hava  baaa  au> 
aral  daya  wa  radt> 
r  our  fMiaa  to  pro< 

B  asM  io-d».j,  and 
g  and  ahoodngat 
at  thay  mada  poor 
■ood  eonaoienca,  to 
leant  a.^mal%  yet, 
1  to  try  my  horaa 
«d  tha  aport,  and 
dat  of  them,  had  I 
t  being  auffioiantly 
mt,  and  intending 
in  order  to  take  a 
vedones  andbyao 
ma,  placed  myaelf 
en  wounded,  often 
injuriea.  Foirtu- 
\  riae  up<ni  me,  and 
danger. 

try,  and  firom  the 
d  tor  their  dwell. 


■Apawaa- ■wiini  nooa.  ft 

iaga,  thay  Muat  be  vary  numaroua,  though  w*  have  aean 
only  a  few,  and  have  killed  but  one.  Thay  keep  near  their 
burrowi,  and  run  into  iham  on  tha  laaat  approach  of  danger. 
Tha  badger  ia  of  the  genua  araiM,  about  tha  die  of  the  mar- 
mot, or  what  is  often  called  the  woodohuok,  of  a  eilvery  gray 
color,  with  abort  Iaga,  aad  ita  whole  aapeot  ia  interetting.  I 
did  not  have  an  opportunity  to  learn  many  of  itahabita.  A 
ffiiall  animal  called  fin  prairie  dog,  abounda  in  thia  Motion  of 
country.  It  takea  ita  uame,  not  from  ita  appearance,  but  trom 
iu  balking,  which  ia  like  that  of  a  vary  miall  dog.  It  ia  of  a 
brown  ookK,  anid  iu  fiir  ia  of  auparior  flaanaaa.  It  ia  vary  shy 
and  diSiesilt  to  be  taken.  Waa  it  not  for  thia  laat  oiroum. 
■taooa,  I  ahould  think  it  might  ba  an  important  aitiola<tf  traflfo. 

Wa  paaaad,  on  the  31at,  many  uncommonly  intereating 
bluffii  compoaed  of  indurated  clay,  aituatad  on  a  wide  qiraad 
plain;  many  of  them  very  high,  with  perpendicular  akiea^ 
and  of  almoat  every  imaginable  form.  Soma  appeared  like 
strong  fortificatkma  with  high  oitadala ;  aoma  like  stately^, 
ifioaa  with  lofty  towers.  1  had  never  before  aean  any  thii^ 
like  them  of  clay  iimnation.  And  what  adda  to  their  beau, 
ty  ia,  that  the  clay  of  which  they  are  oompaaed,  ia  nearly 
white.  Such  ia  the  amoothneaa  and  whitaneaa  of  the  parpen* 
dioular  sides  and  cfiets ;  and  such  tha  regularity  of  their 
Mraight  aad  curved  httt^w,  that  one  can  hardly  believe  that 
they  are  not  the  worii  ufart. 

It  waa  a  very  warm  day.  The  thermometer  stood  at  noon, 
at  90«,  and  at  6  o'clock,  P.  M.  at  I00».  Tbers  were  «o 
prairie  winda  as  usual.  Almoat  every  day  winds  blow  over 
the  prairies  like  sea  breezes,  or  trade  wmds.  They  gene- 
rally comoiMioe  tboat  eight  in  the  morning,  and  continue 
thfrough  tha  day.  Theaa  winda  rsydar  tha  travelfaig  com- 
foftable,  although  the  thermometer  may  mage  high. 


m 


*!f 


•ml  ovrio^y,  wWoli.  fof  Um  wIi«  of  a  aMM,  I  A»U  ««U 
Um  oU  oMlto.    It  ^  aitiMM  upon  th*  MMlIt  lU*  of  ib« 
PJatlB,  on  •  pbki,  MM  nUlM  dM«»Bt  from  Mty  •bvatad 
iMid,  Mid  oov«n  mom  tli»«  «n  acre  of  gro«ui4,  and  <■  mom 
than  ftfty  fca«  high.     Il  tiaa.  rx  tho  dktoiMo  of  Um  wklili  '«f 
die  riwr,  all  tho  e.p|MamiMO  of  an  oW  mmnwoim  biiildinf, 
■omawhal  dil«^dal«i ;  but  •till  you  wa  Uw  ilaiMUtiii  wall% 
tha  loot,  ^  iurtota,  enibfaaurao,  tba  dome,  and  aloioal  tkt 
vary  wteiiowi ;  and  largo  gtwid-houaM,  lAaading  wwa  roda 
io  trv.A  of  ^  main  building.      You  unoooaoiou^y  look 
aTfKmd  «» the  oooloauraa,  but  thoy  am  all  iwoi*  aca;,  >  7  tho 
|«4M  of  Ifane— fi»r  tbo  iniiabitanta,  but  they  hare  dkmp> 
pearad;  all  laeilaMt  and  eolitarjr.    Although  you  oonmct 
your  knagiaatiani  and  call  to  mmamhraiwe,  that  you  a»a 
beholding  tha  work  of  nature,  yat,  befom  you  are  awara^ 
the  ilkMon  Ukae  you  again,  and  your  ourioaity  iaeioitod  to 
know  who  built  thb  frbria,  and  what  haa  beeoma  of  tho 
^.gtma  gonaratMM.    I  ibund  H  imfMwiibla  to  diveat  myaalf 
of  iiich  impremknui.    Tho  longer  and  Um  mora  ndnulefy  J 
axamined  it,  Uie  more  I  eawto  admire  ;  and  it  ramindedma 
of  iboee  deeoriptkMM  of  power  and  gmndeor  in  ruina,  of 
wMeli  wa  road  of  anoie»tt  timea  and  nrstknia. 

Encamped  at  noon  of  the  S9d,  aeur  anoter  of  natttra'k 
wonder*.  It  ha«  been  nai'.tid  Uie  ohimney ;  but  i  ahottM 
«ay,  it  ought  to  be  ealled  beacon  Ull,  from  ita  raaamUanee 
*  io  what  waa  beacon  hill  in  Borton.  Bfeiiq;  tnxioua  to  have 
«  near  view,  although  in  a  land  of  dangei  I  condudad  to 
take  anaHiMtant  and  paaa  over  Um  rivwr  to  It.  The  river 
whore  we  cro«d  waa  about  a  mile  wkle,  AaHow  and  tiU 
of  quiekaand,  but  we  paaeed  it  wHibeut  4ny  difieuMoa.  We 
rode  about  thraa  milea  over  a  level  plain,  and  otme  to  Uir 


MM,  I  itMll  ««ll 

mui,  muA  ia  roorw 
«  of  th«  wki«ii  »r 
omioiM  buildingt 

0,  and  aloKMl  tkt 


iw«pt»c«>  ythw 
ihey  lwv«  difwp- 
Dogh  yon  oorvect 
Me,  th«t  yott  »>« 
e  yon  are  «w»r» 
riorityM  excited  to 
M  iMMome  of  the 
lUtodiveetmyarif 
» man  mioiilely  ^ 
lad  it  ramiiided  me 
idear  in  ruina.  of 

MM. 

Mdwr  of  natttra'n 
ney;  but  i  alHnikl 
m  iti  nMnmblaBoe 
ig  tiixioiM  to  have 
K  I  oonduded  to 
r  to  It.  The  river 
e,  ahallowMidiiH 
rdtffeiiMee.  We 
I,  and  (HMie  to  thr 


haae.  The diataaoa  ftom  thaothar  aiida  of  tha  rivar  4id not 
•jppear  more  than  a  mile,  m  daoefitive  are  diaMMCen  mV 
fkJBB  wkhout  aoy  i  ulmarlu.  Thia  hcaooa  hill  haa  •  oq«- 
iaal  (armed  baae  of  aiiotit  half  a  mile  ia  oinmmfcnwHia,  aNfl 
ie  one  hundr«Ml  aiul  My  leet  in  heifhl ;  aud  above  Ihia  ia  pt 
perpeadioular  ooluum,  twelve  &at  aquare,  and  ei^ty  fiwt 
hi|^  i  makiag  the  whole  height  about  two  hwdiad  twl 
thirty  fipat.  Wa  left  our  horaaa  at  the  baae,  and  iMMtAM 
tr  the  parfMMidiioular.  Jt  ia  ibriaad  of  indurated  olay  or  maxU 
aiMi  i»  aoroa  fwrta  ia  petrified.  It  ia  of  a  light  ohooolata,  (tf 
nifoita  oUor,  ia  auftia  pmgu  white.     Near  the  U^  ware  h«i)4- 

piaaa^af  whkih  I  haya  tiAan  a  amaM  fpanwmi.    ^# 

«vr  boM«  whM  wt  Mw  two  baiMhi  of  MMo^  4i  If  ^k# 

their  oourae  down  th«  rivar.  Wa  hsMW  aovMlw^y  PNWt  V 
fiB(«iii«  th«in>  Md  Ml  (Wmo  iiidU»tt<wa  for  two  jujrp  ta^. 
nw  hM  eMpaatad  Indiana  naai,  wa  thou^  H  wo|iU  h*^ 
Mftai  for  ua  to  neJM  and  secure  %t9f9ijiPHnmlL¥ftk¥im- 
nvai^MMliai9ffitthaa|n  forM»*4mr*«l)|i(^*t4lWDi»liit 
point  waa  two  miim  dkl«il.  Vary  aoon  we  «iaw  »  owp  xp 
hoonhtdi  oomiig  rapidly  towania  4i»-t4m  ftoppad  iM  fRva 
a  •%tial/k>r  i)iii»j>ehi||4  him  to  hp^lan  on,  $^  §^,mm  m 
mm%imaA^imm  ^laiw  AiU  riiah.  Wap^towAMMP 
to  tfMdr  utRMBt  ifMndf  VaA  whan  we  thpvffte  owr  ratCwM  J|p 
the  river  Ailly  leowrad,  wa  atoppad  imdtook  an  obaanff^^ 
with  ^  lM«a  cpy-i^MM,  whiob  w«  hid  t/»ktia  t^  pmiwHiW 
to  hayn  with  m,  and  found  they  wtr%  whUa  man,  wbp  j^ 
ooma  fysm  »  foit  (^the  Ain«ric«n  Fur  Compf^y  H^  t)Mjpif#: 
ililie,  to  otoat  the  caravan.  Mr.  Fontaiidlla,  the  tsvmmr 
di»i>f  tbe  onravan,  eaw  tha  imvai)|i«pt,  wm.  •l»«Wl4  Iv 


^"I'gpr 


ool  is  dl  hMM,  wWi  •  ■ambw  of 
MM  IB  our  iMtKBiin      Rot  all  tmmlud  fan  fVkadb 
frtMAi.     TImm  vara  looM  0|*lklld)  luUmm 
M«r««i  wliooMMl»o«r«MNptatlM«v«nnf.    Tlifm— 


Oa  iIm  ttd.  ftlUr  tisvallag  •  hw  mikw,  w* 
ilMr  Seoll's  Muflb.  T)mm  mw  th«  UirmiMHoa  of  •  M(h 
iMftoTlaad  nawkmAtMRKmUitoaMth.  Thtj  mf^frf 
MM  Um  rlvw,  Ugh  sad  akrapl,  Mia  wUMto  wwtlijr  <^mm1m. 
tlMi«to«paatkrQU|fktlMirMif«  «  ibfOrti^iilMMiBteoJi  Amb 
tiM  rivw,  tlM  wMtli  of  •  oooMMB  RMd,  wttk  ftfmMmiat 
MMtvoOT  Urn*  kokdrjdfiMlMgli.  ftafpwnMOMMi^ 
ft  fMt  of  (iw  bliA  ted  bM«  out  oC  mmI  movad  •  ftw  rali  tP 
tte  aortk.  hiliiiii  of  JouiMjriaf,  Ite  ■wfndtrt  wmM  4*. 
rfM  WMdn  la  oxuttiM  tte  iMwiiM%MiMMry  ol  dito  MOllaQ 
timmtay,  and  tte  nmr«  ndaiM  hk  •uuaiBitk4t,  tte  i 
WMli  teindioKivlMy  MioiuiiNitjr. 

mitiriHl««owti]r(kppMn  t»  atevad  is 
ttet  tfavm  Mte  •■«  Itead  la  »lmm  •vary  pMt ;  to 
ptooM  b  terg*  ^iMoOtlM  ia  a  oiyrtaHaid  alala.  Oar  ter- 
■M  aad  OMilaa  i*wa  dkaoaad  to  ntdu'  tiMM  a  aalMMliila  4tt 
ooMMaaa  adt.    TtenBonwtar  KMhty  ilood  at  M*. 

Wblla  w  WW*  •noampad  at  ooon  of  dM  Mtk,  aad  our 
tecMt  aad  niulca  war*  tantod  out  oiMJhHr  gnardf  and  wa  waia 
pwpariB|oqr  brwakfcat,  or  wtet atenM  tedianar,  wa  waia 
alannad  whh  tte  call,  •'Saoaia  jroor  aaimalaf  aaoiua  your 
aniaMlal"  I  looted  around  to  diaoarar  tte  oauao  of  tte 
alana,  and  aaw,  at  about  a  mila  and  a  telf  djatanoa,  aome 
thiilj  or  forty  IwUana  ooming  on  lioraabaok  at  AtU  ipoad. 
Wa  ted  not  nion  tten  telf  aaoturad  o«r  aaimaU  aad  |na> 
paiad  tu  dafiHiaa,  wtea  tte  Indiana  wara  dooa  upon  na ; 
wtelter  firianda  or  fooa  wa  ooold  not  tall,  unlU  ttey  wara 


9 


ilb  •  aombwof 
iMltod  in  MMik 
f\\»aah  laikum 
Mg.    TkuniMMi- 


Mtfam  of  •  Mfh 


kk  p<fpw#iml»r 
fpMniMtlw«tli 
>T«4  •  few  radi  to 

teMk^tiWMM 


ia 

rftii   in 
■IM*.    Our  hor- 

•I  ST. 

dM  Mth,  Hid  our 
iwdfMMlwointfo 
dioMr,  wo  woro 
Mklol  ooottiOToar 
tbo  oauoo  of  tile 
Jf  dialMMo, 
okot  f^U 

MtiOMllOMMl   |»»- 


untU  thoy  won 


m  ooAuutiuuH.  if 

noMrly  wiiMa  riflo  iIm,  wlwn,  •ooontiag  to  Om  oiMlWMfy 
•xprMiuu  of  flriMMkhip,  tlwy  Ar«4  iMr  gam  kmikadk^ 
Mi  Umo  nurfiad  iatoour  oomp,  •nd  MolUMffod  wlwlottnM 
of  poMO.  Thoy  wwro  OgalUillolw,  ImmM  hy  oiglit  of  iMff 
obiofc,  olad  in  thoir  w^r  lMbilliiMiit%  And  proMatiag  mom. 
wknt  of  •  lonriflo  mffmnmaa.  Tko  okioli  dinod  wink  m, 
•nd  w«i«  Tory  talkativo  •mmg  thoiMwiv«o(  tat,  not  knvk 
iag  My  good  intitrprolor,  w«  otmld  not  join  kit  vmfmiuilim 
wHh  thorn.  Rrory  thing,  hofWoror.  w«at  onplooinlly,  tmi 
to  mutma  M^olMtidB.  Th«y  told  «•  thek  wh^  vilkfo 
WM  only  »  fcw  hnon' tfmvvlahood  of  uo,  going  to^  Binds 
RHh  htOtt  fUTfom of  tm^ag. 

On  tho  Mth,  tht  hMU  w««  vory  iip|inwiw  ia  iU  mIMU 
orthn4iy,th*ra  not  boingunMoli  wind  noWMt  Hht. 
mcaMtrM*.  Tofimi^  ovwUag.woonowtoflMiMlnTilk 
lAft  of  tho  Ogdinllnho,  ooMtMiBf  of  moM  than  two 
«ad  poiMM.  Thaoo  Tillngoo  nro  not  atatkanry,  h«t  i 
Ami  plaoo  to  plaoe,  aa  hwilaartBii  or^oTwitoma  iwy  die* 
tMo.  TlMirM[gMamooml«aUa,aadoarfIytnai|M«M. 
Thay  tura  ooMlntotod  of  eight  or  tan  polao  ahoM  ■igjtiw 
fert  ki^,  Ml  up  hi  a  oiroidar  tma,  the  (mmI!  aads  i 
togather,jnakta|f  an  apes,  and  the  laiga  Mdb  aia 
oat,  IB  ai  to  aadoif  aa  aiw  of  ahoot  twenty  Imi  to  diaMM> 
tar.  The  ^iMa  k  dbvared  wUi  Umb  ooana  dUm,  whkk 
•re  elk,  or  hoftlo,  lakan  whea  thr«y  are  not  good  Ibr  rehoe. 
A  llm  fa  made  in  the  oontre,  a  hole  beii^  left  Id  dm  top  ef 
thebdgetwtheanokatffpaaioirt.  All  that  they  hai*«  fir 
houaehoM  ftimitare,  ehNlitog,  and  ekilna  iw  hade,  k  deporf- 
led  ttroond  hooenlhig  10  their  ideaa  of  propriety  aad  mnve- 
nieaoe.  Oenerally  not  man  than  one  flnnily  ooeopke  a 
lodge.  ThetM  are  the  flaeat  lookfaig  Indiana  T  have  OTtt 
eeen.    The  men  are  generally  tall  avd  well  proportiotted ; 


m- 


A   SABBATH   AXONO  THBH. 


the  wonr.sD  «♦•  trim,  and  less  peP'^nlous  than  it  ooinmon 
among  Indian  women,  and  all  wore  well  drcMod  and  cleanly. 
They  came  around  us  in  multitudes,  and  manifissted  groat 
tiurkiflity  to  see  whatever  we  had.  I  did  not  know  why,  but 
my  boota  were  particularly  examined  j  probably  they  had 
never  seet)  any  before,  as  moooasons  are  worn,  not  only  by 
Indtani^  but  also  by  traders  and  hunters. 

SkUMth,  96th.     The  oart-ran  moved  on  a  little  way  to 
the  crowing  place  of  the  Platte,  near  Larama's  fork  in  the 
Bladk  Hills,  and  enoampdd  for  the  day.     This  gave  tts  an 
i^partunlty  for  reading  atad  devotion,    fiom^  of  the  Ogal- 
lallahs  oame  to  my  tent  while  I  was  reading  the  Bible,  Mid 
oMMiWI  toe  atMBtively,  as  though  enquiring  the  reann 
why  I  waft  iiSktyaHy  employed  fWnn  ethers.    I  endeavored 
td  nak»  thetn  ondeistaiMl  by  the  langtn^^  of  signs,  that  1 
waa  feadfaig  4to  boolit  of  God,  which  teacbta  us  how  to  wor- 
Mf^  Milh-    Aftei*  spending  some  ^me  in  teaching  them  to 
r«id,  and  bow  God  is  to  be  worshiped,  I  sung  a  hynm, 
Which  greatly  interested  them.    They  tatk  me  by  the  hand, 
and  (he  expressioii  of  their  couctenanoo  ewmet^  to  say,  We 
Want  tO'ltpew  WhiU  all  this  meai««.    My  spirit  was  pained 
Within  m«|,  aodri  anxiously  demred  to  underatand  thoir  lan- 
guage dwt  i  mf|;ht  tell  them  about  Christ,  the  only  Savior. 
Tiw  enquiry  arose  forcibly  iti  my  mind,  why  will  not  some 
of  tiM  m&iiy  C  hristian  young  men  of  the  east,  exercise  so 
hioeh  self-denial,  as  to  come  and  teach  them  the  way  of  aal- 
v«tioB  ?    What  Christian  would  not  glory  in  such  labor  ? 
And  if  there  should  beany  tribulations  attendant  on  the  enter- 
prise, would  they  not,  like  St.  Paul,  glory  in  tribulations  ? 
■i'Jki  avening,  w«  passed  over  the  Platte,  and  went  a  mile 
and  a  half  up  to  the  fort  of  the  Black  Hills,  and  encamped 
near  the  fort  in  our  umal  form. 


thftn  i»  common 
ewed  and  clMnly. 
I  m«nifinted  groat 
lot  know  why,  but 
robably  they  had 
worn,  not  only  by 

on  a  Ihtlfl  way  to 
rama's  fork  in  tha 

This  gave  vm  an 
omo  of  the  Ogal- 
iog  the  Bibla,  uid 
uiring  the  reaaon 
m.  I  endeavoMd 
;«  of  signs,  that  1 
tta  ua  hoiw  to  wor- 
I  teaching  them  to 

I  sung  a  liynia, 
A  me  by  the  hand, 
ewmet^  toaay,  We 
■pirit  was  pained 
deratand  thult  Wn- 
t,  the  only  Savior, 
frhy  will  not  some 
e  east,  exerciae  so 
emtha  way  ofaaK 
}ry  in  sooh  labor? 
tndant  on  the  water. 
f  in  tribulatloas  7 
I,  and  went  a  miie 
ilia,  and  encamped 


ai^cK  HIUS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Btaek  Hill*— day  ct  indnlgmoe— boflUo  dinoe^-tbe  deairii  of  Indiaiu 
for  iiwtruetion — mat  the  ehieft  ia  ocanoU — ra^oomuonoad  oar  Jo«ir* 
aey  for  rendesTovo— anthraeito  ooal  apactaa  of  wormwood—Sod 
Bat»->4ra«ea  of  griatly  baar»— geology^-Book  Iiidej,j«nd<oo*— 
Booky  Mountaina  perpetual  anow—valley  tturoufb  the  moootaina 
_••  thonder  apirila^  gone— an  alarm— watera  of  the  Colorado. 

Thb  Black  Hills  4I0  not  derive  their  name  60m  any  thing 
peculiar  in  the  oo16b  of  the  soil  and  rooks  of  which  they  are 
composed,  but  ara  so  called  from  being  covered  with  skral^by 
cedars,  which  give  them  a  dark  appearance  when  seen'  at 
a  distance.  The  alluvial  soil  upon  the  rivers  and  in  tiila 
valleys  is  very  |[ood,  but  upon  the  higher  lands  and  hills, 
it  is  thin  and  rather  barren,  and  in  many  parta  full  of  stones, 
which  jura  worn  smoodi  by  Jie  action  of  water,  and  are  of 
various  kinds  and  formsi.  Ona  spur  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains is  aeen  from  ^  this  phtoa,  which  is  ibrtf  or  fifty  miles 
distant,  and  is  probably  five  tUbusaadfeet  high;- 

At  this  place  the  c&ravan  halted,  and  according  to  imme>- 
morial  usage,  the  men  were  allowed  a  "day  of  induilgMMta^' 
as  it  is  called,  in  which  they  drink  ardent  spirits  as  much  as 
thay  please,  and  conduct  as  they  choose.  Not  unfirequently 
the  day  terminates  with  a  catastrophe  of  some  kind,  and 
tcday  one  of  the  company  shot  another  with  the  full  intan* 
tion  to  have  killed  him.  The  ball  entered  the  back,  and 
came  out  at  the  side.  The  wounded  man  exclaimed, "  I  am 
a  dead  man ;"  but  after  a  pause,  said,  <'  No,  I  am  not  hurt." 

The  other  intmediately  seized  a  rifle  tp  finich  the  work,  Iwit 

1* 


■M 


ft-  BurvAiA  aJMtm. 

WM  prevented  by  the  bystanders,  who  wreated  it  firom  hiirt 
and  discharged  it  into  the  air. 

July  28th.  The  day  of  indulgence  being  past,  a  quiet 
day  aucoeeded.  The  exhilaration  waa  followed  by  oonae- 
quent  relaxation,  and  the  tide  of  spiritR  which  aroae  so  high 
,  yesterday,  ebbed  to-day  proportionally  low.  The  men  were 
seen  lounging  about  in  Iistles<i  idleness,  and  oould  soaroely 
be  roused  to  ttie  business  of  making  repairs  and  arrange- 
ments for  the  long  journey  yet  before  us.  The  Indians  were 
active,  and  manif'^-^ted  a  disposition  to  be  sociable  and  kind, 
and  also  to  oper  .  rade  with  us  in  various  articles,  such  as 
moocasons,  belts,  and  dressed  ddns;  !\nd  desired  in  return, 
tnives,  awls,  combs,  vermtUon,  dec. 

Although  the  nights  were  oool,  yet  the  thermoaieter  stood 
in  the  middle  of  the  day  at  96%  but  tJM  he«t  was  relieved  by 
the  usual  prairie  winds. 

On  the  29th,  th»  Og«U«Ilah  Indians  who  aooompanied  as, 
had  a  bnialo  and  a  dog  danoe,  the  real  object  of  which  1 
ooidd  not  satis&otorily  ascertain.  Whether  H  was  firom 
aotr>A  superstitious  notion  that  their  auoeeas  in  hunting  de* 
pendeti  on  these  rites,  or  whethor  the  custom  originated  in 
tlie  gratitude  of  their  hearts  for  past  suocesMS,  or  nose  pro* 
bably  as  an  ^^musement,  or  neither,  I  cannot  tell.  I  wit- 
nessed  the  first  mentiomd  oerenwny,  and  was  uootont  to 
dispense  with  the  latter.  In  the  buflMo  danoe,  a  large  aum* 
bar  of  young  men,  dressed  with  the  skins  <^  the  nook  and 
head  of  fiaflolos  with  their  horns  on,  ntoved  round  in  a  dan*  , 
cing  march.  They  shook  their  heads,  imitated  the  low  hel- 
lowing  <^  the  bu&lo,  wheeled,  and  jjunqMd.  At  the  same 
time  man  and  wtNnoMi  sung  a  song,  aooompanied  with  the 
besting  ofa  sort  of  drum.  loannotsay  Imsroudiamuaedk 
to  see  how  well  they  oouki  imitate  hnile  beaal%  whfla 


itfld  it  from  him 

ng  pMt,  a  quiet 
lowed  by  oonae- 
oh  aroM  bo  high 
The  men  were 
I  oould  soaroely 
rs  and  arrange- 
Ite  Indians  were 
loiable  and  kind, 
artioles,  such  as 
laired  in  return, 

ermoaieter  flood 
;  was  relieved  by 

aooompanied  M, 
i^eot  of  which  1 
lier  H  was  firom 
■  in  httntiag  de- 
«n  originated  in 
MS,  or  mom  pro- 
not  tell.  I  wit. 
:  trmt  oomtont  to 
loe,  a  large  num< 
of  the  nook  aad 
I  round  in  a  dan- 
ated  the  low  hel- 
d.  At  the  aame 
npaaied  with  the 
rasraudkamund 
lie  beaafl%  while 


•mffwmmim 


THS  OBXLLALUlMU. 


71 


ignorant  of  God  and  salvation.  The  impressive  enquiry 
was  constantly  on  my  mind,  what  will  become  of  their 
immortal  spirits  1  Rational  men  imitating  beasts,  and  old 
gray-headed  men  marshaling  the  dance  I  and  enlightened 
wliite  men  encouraging  it  by  giving  tliem  intoxicating 
spirits,  as  a  reward  for  their  good  performance.  I  soon 
retired,  and  was  pleased  to  find  that  only  a  small  number 
of  the  Indians  took  any  part  in  the  dance. 

An  Indian  whom  I  attempted  to  teach  last  Sabbath,  came 
to  me  again  to-day,  and  manifested  that  he  wished  me  to 
instruct  him.  I  endeavored  to  communicate  to  his  mind 
some  ideas  of  God,  and  sang  the  hymn,  "  Watchman,  tell 
us  of  the  night."  He  and  those  with  him,  shook  hands  with 
me  as  a  token  of  their  saUs&otion,  and  left  me.  He  soon 
returned,  however,  bringing  others,  that  they  too,  ntight 
hear  what  he  had  heard  with  so  much  apparent  pleasure, 
and  they  again  shook  hands  with  me.  This  was  beveral 
times  repeated.  These  Indians  appear  not  only  friendly  to 
white  men,  but  kind  in  their  intercourse  with  each  other, 
and  in  no  instance  did  I  witness  any  quarrels  among  them. 
Their  minds  ^m  unoommonly  gitiad  and  noUe,  their  per- 
sons are  Anely  fimned,  and  many  of  them  are  truly  "  na- 
ture's greaadieis."  The  women  are  graceful,  and  thoir 
voices  are  soft  and  expressive.  I  was  agreeably  surprised 
to  see  tall  young  ohieis,  well  dressed  in  their  own  mode, 
walkiag  arm  iu  arm  with  their  ladies.  This  is  wb«it  I 
bad  not  expected  to  see  among  those  whom  we  tefm 
"aavages."  It  is  true  that  they  are  heathen,  in  all  the 
gnilt  of  sin  and  destitute  of  the  knowlec^  of  (3od,  and 
the  hopes  «f  th«  goqtelt  but  in  politenese  and  deteney,  as 
well  a»  m  Many  othpr  rsqiects,  they  are  very  unlike 
the  frontier  Indians,  who  have  been  corrupted  and  degra- 


B9 


iBaa 


■«l 


■■ 


fl  cOTWcii,  WITH  rm  siotrx. 

ded  by  their  aoquaintanoe  with  ardent  spirits,  and  wicked 
white  men. 

On  the  80th,  I  met  in  council  with  the  ohieftof  this  tribe, 
to  lay  before  them  the  object  of  our  tdur,  and  to  know  if 
they  would  wish  to  have  miasionaries  sent  aroong  them  to 
teach  them  to  read  and  write,  and  especially  how  to  worship 
Ood.  They  expressed  much  satisfaction  with  the  proposal, 
and  said  they  would  do  all  they  cduld  to  make  their  condi- 
tion comfortable.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  this  commu- 
nity of  the  Sioux  would  be  a  promising  field  for  laborers. 
They  are  inquisitive,  and  their  language  is  distinct  and 
sonorous. 

On  the  3l8t,  thermometer  stood  at  81*- 

August  1st.  At  half  past  eight  in  the  morning,  we  re- 
commenced our  journey,  and  the  next  point  to  which  we  di- 
rect our  course  is  across  the  Rooky  Mountains,  where  the 
general  rendezvous  will  be  held.  Our  wagons  were  left  at 
the  fort  of  the  Black  Hills,  and  all  our  goods  were  packed 
upoii  mules.  Several  of  our  company  went  out  into  various 
parts  of  the  country  to  hunt  and  trap,  but  as  many  more 
joined  us  Sat  the  mountains,  so  that  our  number  is  not  di- 
minished. Mr.  Fontenelle  etopped  at  the  fort,  and  Mr.  Pitz 
Patrick  took  his  place  in  charge  of  the  caravan.  We  had 
received  during  our  journey  to  this  place,  many  kind  atten- 
tions from  Mr.  F.  as  well  as  the  privilege  of  traveling  un- 
der  his  protection,  fdr  which  we  offered  him  a  remuneration, 
but  he  dcclhied  it,  saying,  "  If  any  aue  is  indebted,  it  is  my- 
self, for  you  have  saved  my  life,  and  the  lives  of  my  men." 
We  staXt  grateftilly  remember  their  kindness. 

SaUiath,  2nd.  I  enjoyed  some  opportunities  for  oevo- 
tional  exercisee,  but  feltlhe  loss  of  .the  privilege*  of  God's 
house: 


-8^(&*!rv-S«— 


I  inf^lM|,{p^pMM^>- 


rita,  and  wicked 

liefr  of  this  tribe, 
,  and  to  knnw  if 
ftrnoDg  them  to 
^  how  to  worship 
ith  the  proposal, 
lake  their  condi- 
hat  this  oommu- 
»ld  for  laborers, 
i  is  distinct  and 


morning,  we  re- 
t  to  which  we  di- 
ttains,  where  the 
^ns  were  left  at 
Mis  were  packed 
t  out  into  various 
t  as  many  more 
umber  is  not  di- 
)rt,  and  Mr.  Fitz 
ravan.  We  had 
many  kind  attnn- 
of  traveling  un- 
1  a  remuneration, 
uiebted,  it  is  my- 
ves  of  my  m^i." 
ess. 

unities  for  devo- 
ivileges  of  God's 


Mi^  M.  ^i^iMt^tm 


lilljlifcw 


Airrmucrra  coal. 


n 


We  found  on  the  8d  but  very  little  grass  for  our  horses 
and  mules,  owing  to  three  causes ;  the  sterility  of  the  soil, 
the  proximity  of  the  snow-tOpped  mountains,  and  the  grazing 
of  numerous  herds  of  buflalos  and  antelopes.  To  save  dis- 
tance in  following  the  bends  of  the  river,  we  pagised  to-day 
over  rough  and  somewhat  dangerous  precipices.  I  had 
found,  before  I  arrived  at  the  Black  Hills,  some  loose  speci- 
mens of  anthracite  coal  on  the  banks  of  streams,  but  to-day 
I  found  a  r«)gular  "  crapping  out"  .'  coal,  the  same  to  all 
appearances  as  I  have  seen  in  the  coal  basins  of  Pennsylva- 
nia. The  existence  of  a  coal  basin  here  is  alao  confirmed  by 
indications  of  iron  ore.  Certainly  an  invaluable  substance, 
should  it  prove  abundant,  to-the  future  inhabitants  of  a  coun- 
try m  destitute  of  other  fuel.  This  was  the  first  disoovei  /  of 
coal  in  this  region.  A  range  of  mountains,  a  spur  of  wfaioh 
is  seen  firom  Larama's  fork  in  the  Black  Hills,  runs  paral- 
lel with  the  river,  ten  or  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  some  of 
the  peaks  are  very  high. 

Aiigust  4th.  The  country  was  more  level  and  fertile. 
I  discovered  more  anthracite,  indicating  It^rge  quantities  ; 
also,  m  one  place,  yellow  sand  stmie  of  remarkably  fine  tex- 
ture. It  undoubtedly  would  answer  ac  cx4«llent  purpose 
for  polishing  metals.  A  species  of  wormwood  grows  in 
great  quantities  in  this  region,  where  the  soil  is  gravelly 
and  barren.  Some  of  it  grows  oight  or  ten  feet  high,  and 
four  or  five  inches  ir.  diameter,  and  is  an  obstruction  to 
traveling,  h  is  genera Ih  called  wild  sage.  Scarcely  any 
animal  will  taste  it,  u,  -  <  spelled  by  extreme  hunger; 
The  prairie  hen.  howfir  jrv  -yifB  the  iiuds  or  leaves,  which 
render  its  flesh  bitter  atKi  '  ipalatable  for  food.  I  saw  some 
ffftaiiH>  M-4ny  of  a  dark  gray  color,  like  the  granite  in  parts 
ctilM  Atlantic  i4ates.     What  I  had  «eeo  before  in  boulders 


■»«»i- 


._-_»5¥i£ 


WM  of  the  i^A  oart,  like  that  which  is  found  about  Lake 
SupeHor. 

On  the  t^K  we  aroae  at  the  first  breaking  of  the  day,  and 
procfteded  o.     ^ .  route,  making  forced  mR-ches  through  this 
bnrren  regi         Encamped  towards  night  at  a  place  called 
the  Red  Bi(    .  which  is  a  high  bluff  of  land,  resembling  red 
xihre  in  cole  v,  but  compot^  of  clay  somewhat  indurated. 
TWt  Ifi  a  central  place  for  Indians  traveling  eart  or  west, 
north  wr  souil^      ¥i^9  the  noitii-west  branch  of  the  Platte, 
along  which  •*  %  liave  b«en  traveling,  comes  flfom  a  aouthem 
direction,  tht  head  of  which  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  distant.    Fjrom  the  Red  Bute  we  pats  overt©  the  Sweet- 
fcier,  a  brvj   >  of  the  Platte,  whick  comes  from  the  west. 
Wd  MW  to-^hy  tracks  of  fritzly  bears,  which  were  perfect- 
ly  fresh,  aai->  were  indicative  of  their  formidable  slae  and 
strength.    i-M»  with  two  large  cubs  passed  out  of  some 
gooe^trry  fead  currant  bushes  near  the  rivflr,  as  we  pro* 
O'^ed  around  to  an  open  spot  of  ground  for  an  encamping 
place.    Lie^it.  P.  of  the  dragoons,  a  man  of  undoubCed  ve- 
racity, told  a.«  he  saw  several  buffiilos  passing  near  some 
budies,  wherw  a  grizaly  bear  lay  oonoeaied,  and  the  bear 
with  one  stroke  tore  three  ribs  from  a  buffiilo  and  laid  it 
dead.    It  has  been  said,  if  you  meet  one  of  these  bears, 
you  must  cither  kill  him,  or  be  killed ;  but  this  is  not  true, 
unless  you  come  upon  them  suddenly,  or  wound  them.     If 
you  let  them  pass  off  unmolested,  they  will,  in  most  cases, 
withdraw,  drawing  that  the  fear  of  man  is  upon  them  as 
well  as  upon  other  beasts. 

August  6th.  The  geology  of  these  regions  is  becmnnig 
more  interesting,  as  we  approach  the  mountains.  I  saw  to- 
day, not  only  granite  m  tUu,  but  also  a  quantity  of  the  mo^ 
beautiful  serpentine  I  ever  beheld.    It  was  semi-transparent 


mi 


««nM»*«lMMV>n9MMi.' 


nd  kbout  Lake 

of  the  day,  and 
hea  through  this 
t  a  place  called 
,  resembling  red 
what  indurated, 
g  east  or  west, 
)h  of  the  Platte, 
firom  a  southern 
undred  and  Aky 
vertotheSweet- 
I  from  the  west, 
oh  were  perfect- 
kidable  size  and 
Kd  out  of  some 
TvW,  as  we  pro- 
>r  an  encamping 
»f  undoubfied  ve- 
issing  near  some 
ed,  and  the  bear 
fitlo  and  laid  it 
)  of  these  bears, 
t  this  is  not  true, 
(round  them.     If 
1,  in  most  cases, 
[s  upon  them  as 

;ions  is  becoming 
itaina.  I  saw  to- 
antityofthemoyt 
;  semi-transparent 


■  finisilfc 


Moi  -mawBimiiioi. 


n 


and  of  a  deep  grsea  hue,  veiy  much  reasmbliiig  tpeoimens 
of  emerald  which  I  saw  in  the  mineralogioal  cabinet  at 
New  Haven.  I  regretted  the  neoeosity  which  i  long  jour- 
n«y>  yet  before  me,  impoeed  «f  paasiag  by  opportunities  for 
makinfr  ooUections. 

Passed  Rock  Independence,  on  the  7th.  This  is  the  flrst 
massive  rock  of  that  stupendous  chain  of  mountains,  which 
divides  North  America,  and  forms,  together  with  its  barrens 
on  each  side,  a  natural  division.  This  rook  takes  its  name 
from  the  circumstance  of  a  company  of  Air  traders  suspend- 
ing their  journey,  and  here  observing,  in  due  form,  the  an- 
niversary of  our  national  fteedom.  It  is  an  immonsely  huge 
rook  of  solid  granite,  entirely  bare,  and  covering  aereral 
«ei«t.  Advancing  a  little  distanee,  we  pame  to  a  strram 
of  no  inconsiderable  die,  which  has  its  orighi  in  the  moun- 
taifis,  and  to  which  the  name  of  Sweetwater  has  been 
given  on  account  of  its  purity.  We  followed  up  the  course 
of  this  river  for  several  days.  In  one  placo  it  passes  a 
small  branch  of  the  mountains,  through  %  mrr  m  chasm 
only  thirty  or  forty  feet  wide,  and  mors  than  thre,^  hm.i'^ml 
feet  high.  The  caravan  passed  around  the  point  of  tl*is 
mountain,  and  to  obtain  a  better  prospect  of  this  natural 
curiosity,  I  left  them  and  rode  to  it.  A  deep-toned  roar 
is  beard  as  the  river  dashes  its  way  through  the  rocky  pas- 
sage. The  sight  is  soon  intercepted  by  its  winding  course, 
and  the  darkness  caused  by  the  narrowness  aed  deepness 
of  the  avenue. 

Passed  to-day,  several  small  lakes  of  crystalized  epsom 
salt,  from  which  the  water  in  the  drouth  of  sununer  is  evap- 
orated. I  rode  into  one  of  them  to  examine  the  quality  and 
depth,  but  finding  my  horse  sinking  as  in  quicksand,  I  was 
glad  to  make  a  safe  retreat.     Whatever  may  be  beneath, 


9 


*|B         A?ntOA0V  TO  Tin  MOOMTAINi. 

wImUmt  Mlt  In  »  lew  "olUl  •tato  than  on  the  •urfcc*.  or 
quiokMind,  yet  large  qutnUtioe  of  good  quality  might  be 
easily  col)«oted. 

The  mountaini  are  indeed  rocky  mountabu.  They  are 
rooka  heaped  upon  rocks,  with  no  vegotaUon,  excepting  a  few 
cedars  growing  out  of  the  crevioee  near  their  ba»e.  Their 
tope  are  covered  with  perpetual  enow,  which  are  eeen  on 
our  left  and  before  u«.  As  we  advanced,  the  atmoeplierc 
wai  inoreaungly  more  chilling  through  the  night  and  moet 
of  the  day.  exoepUng  l>e  middle,  which  to-day  was  very 
warm  ;  the  thermometer  sUndtng  at  84°. 

Sabbath,  eth.  I  endeavo'ed  to  supply  the  absence  of  the 
privileges  of  the  sanctuary  and  its  ordinances,  as  well  •■  I 
oould  by  readkig,  and  recalling  to  mind  portions  of  tke 
soripturas,  hynms,  and  the  dootrinea  of  our  excellent,  but 
negleotad  oat«)h»sm.  One  needs  to  be  on  heathen  ground 
to  reaUxe  the  wUtarioeas  of  abseooe  from  the  eooial  wo»- 
shipi  when  -■•J'' 

••  The  oliesrfttl  Mmfs  and  •olemn  vows 
M  ska  tbair  oonmunion  awaat" 

On  the  10th,  cold  winds  were  felt  from  the  snow-topped 
mountains  to  an  uncomfortable  degree.  The  pasMfe 
throvgh  these  mountains  is  in  a  valley,  so  gradual  in  the 
•scent  and  descent,  that  I  should  not  have  known  that  we 
were  pa«iing  them,  had  it  not  been  that  as  we  advanced  the 
atmosphere  gradually  became  cooler,  and  at  length  we  saw 
the  perpetual  snows  upon  our  right  hand  and  upon  our  left, 
elevated  many  thousand  fee.  above  iw— in  some  places  ten 
or  twelve  thousand.  The  highest  part  of  these  mountains 
are  fouwi  by  measurement,  to  be  eighteen  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  aea.  This  valley  was  not  discovered 
until  some  years  since.    Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  more  than 


th«  turflio*,  or 
uality  might  be 

ihu.  They  »re 
,  exoeptiog  a  few 
Bir  ba»e.  Their 
loh  are  seen  on 
,  the  atmcwptiera 
B  night  and  most 
to-day  wa«  very 

lie  abeenoe  of  the 
loes,  as  well  aa  I 
1  portions  of  the 
ur  excellent,  but 
1  heathen  ground 
n  the  aooial  wo»- 


rrraa.* 


I  the  snow-topped 
I  :  <The  paaaafe 
o  gradual  in  the 
)  known  that  we 
we  advanced  the 
at  Iragth  we  saw 
md  upon  our  left. 
a  sontD  places  ten 
f  these  mountains 
)en  thousand  feet 
iras  not  discovered 
3  party,  more  than 


TRtTNttu  sPiaiTt  oir^ano.  W 

twenty  years  ago.  went  near  but  did  not  And  it,  though  in 
aearoli  of  some  favorable  passage.  It  varies  in  width  from 
two  to  AAosn  miles ;  and  following  iu  course,  the  distooQc 
through  the  mountains  is  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  miles, 
or  four  days'  journey.  Though  there  are  some  elevationH 
and  depressions  in  this  valley,  yet  oomparativoly  speaking, 
it  is  level.  There  would  be  no  difE^uUy  in  tlte  way  of 
constructing  a  rail  road  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific 
ocaan  ;  and  probably  the  time  m»y  not  be  very  iar  distant, 
when  trips  will  be  made  across  the  continent,  as  they  havo 
been  made  to  the  Niagara  Falls,  to  see  nature's  wonders. 

In  paaaiag  the  Blaok  Hills  &nd  the  Rocky  llountaina  we 
heard  none  of  those  "  suooessife  reports  rosejubliug  thn 
discharge  of  several  pieces  of  artillery,"  mantioaed  by 
some  authors  as  common  "  ip  the  most  cAlm  and  aerwe 
waather,  m  all  times  of  the  day  or  night :"  opr  did  wo  wit- 
neas  "  lightning  and  thunder,  pealing  from  floods  gathering 
round  the  summits  of  the  bills"  or  mountains.  **  i'he  thun- 
der spirits,  who  fabricate  storms  and  tempests,"  appear  to 
have  dosed  theit'  labors,  and  the  Indian  tribes  no  longer 
"  hang  ofierings  on  the  trees  to  propitiate  the  invi«bl«  loxds 
of  the  mountains." 

The  geology  presents  some  variety ;  for  while  the  main 
ridge  of  the  mountains  is  granite,  yet  to-day  parallel  ridges 
of  red  secondary  Sandstone  have  abounded.  They  appear 
to  have  been  affected  by  heat ;  and  some  elevating  force 
has  broken  them  into  dyke-like  ridges  at  different  distances 
from  each  other,  running  from  east  north-east  to  west  south- 
west. The  strata  are  mostly  vertical,  but  some  have  i^ 
Blight  dip  to  the  south. 

We  had  an  alarm,  while  we  were  encamped  for  noon, 

and  the  men  were  called  to  arms.    They  al  1  rushed  forth 

8 


w^siStmMvJimmmimn 


H  aw  BAitiiT  iiTn. 

Aill  of  oounm<»,  r«ther  rtlmulaUnl  than  •fipallod  by  «!«n<^r. 
Only  one  Indian  made  hia  appearance  upon  the  hill,  at  the 
foot  of  which  we  were  encramped.  Thi«  waa  Ukon  aa  an 
indication  that  otheni  were  near,  which  waa  the  fact  j  but 
he  and  they  retreated. 

Auguat  11th.  The  laat  night  waa  very  cold— we  had  a 
heavy  fVort  with  ice.  A  Httle  before  nunriao,  the  thermo. 
meter  stood  at  24".  Our  early  momiag  ride  waa  not  very 
comfortable  for  myself,  and  leta  ao  ffor  Bome  of  our  men 
who  were  not  ftimiehed  with  over-coala.  Our  horaea  and 
mulea  began  to  ahow  that  conirtant  labor,  without  sufficient 
food,  waa  not  fkvorable  to  strength,  and  some  of  them  failed. 
To^ay  we  came  to  the  dig  Sandy  river,  one  of  the  upper 
branohea  of  the  Colorado,  which  emptiea  into  the  gulf  of 
California.  Along  ita  banka  are  aome  Norway  and  pitch 
pina,  and  a  vary  few  small  white  pines,  and  clumpaof  com- 
men  poplar.  In  aome  of  the  low  vales,  there  were  beautiiVil 
littie  fW»h  roeea,  which  bloomwi  amidst  the  deeolationa 
utNind.  "  How  ornamental  are  the  works  of  natureJ  She 
aaema  to  decorate  them  all,  aa  If  each  spot  waa  a  garden,  In 
which  God  might  perohanoe  walk,  aa  once  In  ESden." 


4- 


jlfld  by  Anntftr. 
I  the  hill,  Kt  th« 
u  taken  m  m 
■  th«  f«ot  i  but 

eold~-we  had  a 
iao,  the  thermo- 
(le  waa  not  Tery 
ime  of  our  men 
Our  honea  and 
rithout  HufTicient 
lo  of  them  failed, 
ne  of  the  upper 
into  the  gulf  of 
)rway  and  pitch 
d  olumpa  of  com- 
re  were  beautifiil 
t  the  deeolationa 
lofnature-l  She 
was  a  gardeo,  in 
)  ia  Bden." 


axMonrooa. 


n 


CHAPTER  V. 

Antf*  kt  rendaiTou* — tnipp«n  and  haat«r»~fi>ar  Indi«a  ii»tio«e 
VtaUwkik  Kod  N«t  Paroda,  no  raaaon  wbjr  ao  oalM — aurgiaal  ape- 
laUoaa    aa  ialarviaw  wiUi  tlw  FlaUiaad  aad  Na>  Parc^  ehlafc 
Ihair  aniielj  for  rcligioua  inaduolion — ralurn  otDooL  WhUman 
Sboahoaea  anii  L'Uw*-— mouataln  UA. 

Arm  atopping  for  the  night  upon  the  New  Pork,  • 
branch  of  Green  river,  we  aroee  on  the  ISth,  at  the  firat 
brealiing  of  the  day,  and  oontinued  our  forced  marohea. 
Although  we  were  emerging  flrom  the  mountaina,  yet  p«Uu 
covered  with  perpetual  anow  were  seen  in  almoat  every  di- 
rection, and  the  temperature  of  the  air  waa  uncomfortably 
Mid.  I  found  to-day  aome  beautiiiil  caloedony,  of  which  I 
took  a  specimen,  and  aUo  green  atoacr  quarts,  vnd  trap  in 
large  quantities.  In  the  aibmoon,  we  came  to  the  Gi«en 
river,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado,  in  latitude  42**,  when  the 
caravan  bold  their  rendezvous.  This  is  a  widely  extended 
valley,  which  is  pleasant,  with  a  soil  sufficiently  fertile  for 
oultivatim,  if  the  climate  was  not  so  cold.  Like  the  coun- 
try we  have  passed  through,  it  is.  almost  entirely  prairie, 
with  some  woods  skirting  the  streams  of  water. 

The  American  Fur  Company  have  between  two  and  thtt 
hundred  men  constantly  in  and  about  the  mountams,  enga- 
ged in  trading,  hunti. :g  and  trapping.  These  all  aawmble 
at  rendezvous  upon  the  arrival  of  the  caravan,  bring  in  their 
furs,  and  take  new  supplies  for  the  coming  year,  of  clothing, 
ammunition,  and  goods  for  trade  with  the  Indians.   But  few  of 


'    1 


HI  icMWAt  onniA-noiti. 

theae  aunx  ever  wturo  to  their  country  knd  fHendt.     Mo«t 
of  tham  •ro  ooniiUiitly  in  «lobt  to  the  comp»ny,  and  tre  un- 
willing to  return  without  a  fortune ;  and  year  after  year 
(«MM  away,  while  they  are  hoping  in  vain  for  better  «uooe«M. 
Here  were  aMoinbled  many  Indiaim  iMslonging  to  four  dif- 
ferent nations  ;    the  Utawii,  Sti.tshonee,  Nez  r«rc*ii,  and 
Flatlieadt,  who  wore  waiting  for  the  caravan,  to  exchange 
fun,  horMw,  and  drnitaed  skins,  for  vario«ia  artiolea  of  vmt- 
chMid.je.     I  waa  dleappolnted  to  see  nothing  peculiar  In  the 
Flathead  Indiana  to  give  them  their  name.     Who  gava  it 
them,  or  for  what  reason,  ia  not  kn.)wn.     The  name  given 
them  by  tbe  .Nem  P*<rt(m,  which  ia  Saikp,  doea  not  aifaify 
llathead.     Boom  auppoaa  it  waa  given  them  in  dertakm  for 
not  flaUMiiog  their  head*,  •*  the  Chenooka  and  aonM  other 
ruiUoiu  do,  near  the  ahorea  of  the  Paoifio.     It  may  be  ao, 
but  how  will  thoee  who  indulge  thia  imagination,  aoooant 
for  the  Nm  Parous  being  so  called,  sinoa  tfaay  do  not 
piMoa  their  noaoa  1    Thia  name  could  not  be  given  tham 
in  derision,  because  those  near  the  Pacifto,  who  flatten 
their  lieada,  aluo  pierce  t)ieir  noses.     That  those  names 
have  been  given  by  white  men,  ia  evident,  sinoa  they  do 
not  call  each  other  by  the  names  which  signify  either  flat- 
head  or  pierosd  nose. 

While  we  continued  in  this  place,  Doot.  Whitman  was 
oalied  to  perform  some  very  important  sui^ical  oparationa. 
He  extracted  an  iron  arrow,  three  inches  long,  from  the 
b«ok  of  Capt.  Bridger,  which  was  received  in  a  akirmiah, 
thf«s  yo»n»  before,  with  the  Blackfeet  IndianM.  It  was  a 
difikiuh  operation,  because  the  arrow  was  hooked  at  the 
\yHni  by  striking  a  large  bone,  and  a  cartilaginous  substance 
had  grown  around  it.  The  Doctor  pursued  the  operation 
with  great  self-poaaession  and  perseverance ;  and  his  pa- 


JU«M».^ 


fW«ndt.     Moat 
ly,  and  «ra  un> 
ear  after  year 
r  better  Buooeea. 
I^ing  to  four  diC' 
••/.   P«rc*ii,  and 
m,  to  exohangn 
irtiolee  of  m*r- 
( peculiar  in  the 
Who  gave  it 
'he  name  k'VO 
loea  not  ■ifBify 
n  in  dertaion  for 
and  aoma  other 
It  may  be  ao, 
ioation,  account 
M  tbay  do  not 
t  b«  given  thain 
Ao,  who  flatten 
lat  thoae  namaa 
It,  aino*  they  do 
ipify  either  flat- 

.  Whitman  was 
{ioal  oparationa. 
long,  from  the 
I  in  a  akirmiah, 
ianH.  It  waa  a 
■  hooked  at  the 
B^inoua  aubstanoe 
id  the  operation 
06 ;  and  hia  pa- 


■Ma—'' 


y 


••i^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATiON 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


f/. 


4(1 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


-    6" 


M 

1.8 


U    III  1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WE<iT  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

;716)872->»03 


-^^^ 


#'4 


O^ 


«■ 


^ 


i/l 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Instltut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiques 


O^ 


Aif  nrmtTisw  with  nu  cnxrs.  91 

tient  nwnifeBted  equal  firmneM.  Th«  Indiant  looked  on 
meuiwhile,  with  countenanoes  indicating  wonder,  and  in 
their  own  peculiar  manner  expressed  great  aatonishment 
when  it  was  extracted.  The  Doctor  also  extracted  another 
arrow  from  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hunters,  which  had 
been  there  two  years  and  a  half.  His  reputation  becoming 
iavorably  established,  calls  for  medical  and  surgical  aid 
were  almost  incessant. 

After  spending  a  few  days  in  collecting  and  digesting  in< 
formation  in  regard  to  this  country  and  the  ocmdition  of  the 
people,  we  had  an  •interesting  inlemew-  with  the  chieft  of 
the  Nes  Perote  and  Platket^  and  laid  before  tkem^oeb* 
jeet  of  our  appointment,  and  explained  to  them  the  beaero* 
lest  desires  of  Christians  oenceming  them.    W«  then  so* 
quirad  whether  they  wiahsd  to  have  teachers  coma  amoog 
them  Mid  instruct  them  ia  4he  knowledge  of  Ood,  his  wor* 
sUp,  and  the  way  to  be  sared ;  and  what  they  would  do  to 
aid  them  ia  their  labors.    The  oldeet  chief  of  the  Flatheads 
arcw,  and  said,-  '*  he  was  oU,-and  did  sot*  expect  to  know 
muoh  more ;  he  was  deaf  and  could  net  hear,  but  his  heart 
was  made  glad,  rery  glad)  to-aee  what  he  had  aevftr  i 
before,  a  man  near  to  God^"  (meaaiog  a^  minisier  of  tha 
goqiel.)   Next  arose  Inaala,  the  moM  influential  diiefaniMf- 
the  Flathead  nation,  and  said,  "he  had  heard,  that  a 
nan  near  to  (3od  was  coming  to  visit  them,  and  he,  with 
some  of  his  people,  together  with  some  white  men,  went 
out  dues  days'  journey  to  meet  him,  but  foiled  of  find* 
ing  the  oaravaa.     A  war  party  of  Crow  Indiana  oame 
upon  them  in  the  night,  and,  after  a  short  battle,  tlwu([^ 
no  lives  www  lost,  they  took  away  some  of  their  horsea, 
and  one  from  him  which  he  greatly  loved,  but  now  he 


mtmmmi 


1 


fe' 


*  -m  «fil  oMrf  of  dki  N«t  ?>«««%  •lW.iirfMi».w«iWi, 
iMW,  Mdl  mM,  <«Im  iMd  iMni  from  wWl*  mM  •  Ifttl* 
•kwH  CW,  which  li«d  only  g«»li««» Mi  •Mil  h»whht*»i 

towrtwi^lB  !»▼•»*  go  *««'te*>W«*'W«»*>*"*^"' 
htalMb,Mrft9ii*olihhrp«>rl«."  Wb0nif^¥H^mm^ 
hmpoit,  ud  th«y  all  "mUU  m  «My  pi««lii»«  *»  •■■** 

ahig  Md  to  mtaiowtfy  fcibor,  wMeh  li  wMl*  fer  th*  iM-i 
^m,  mi  tfw  maiertlBM  ^  <IM>»  |«wrWww»ti  »tgw<t». 
it  m  pldii,  hy  thdr  --li^  10  <AliJ«aWrti«  tawrWiJ* 

yivyMftll  «nMidinik»i  !■  iig««l»1hiw  n»wm  w#««» 
to  tf«  ooitolMto,  thaVtiNglf  «»«V  «««»•  «»'*o*«»^  ■•^ 

tteasiirfsi*  i»  •»«»«.  twi^»«*ii.«^.  umnM^m 

^m  i#Nst  ipfMiur,  thit  Dr.  WhltMM  rrapond  to  mMM» 
ivMiilM  MEf»vtB,«Dd  obMlB  MwohrtMr  <  aoMWrt  «l*  Mm  ' 
tfikMBt  y«tf,  wW»  *•  tl»  fBtWtttaf  o»w«,  •«*  •ilrtll* 

•  iiiaiM  aiaoiv  A)*M  fM|ile,  titd  by  w  doittgk  ««•  at  IM^ 

•  ygwjIlibrintagtlwgoipolMioogthMi.  '•'***^''*J 
toyXtew  of  tfw  ol^ot.  1  rmAOy  vetmmuiib  tte  |U  jMW» 
M»to  go  «lode  whh  tht  Indbas  tho  feoMtMor  of  «h«  xpk** 
li%toa».  Dr.  VThHiBMi,  OB  ita»theroOiMtd»»«tfc»ii,  ^**^ 
rnkgiTfaaga  about  iMving  a*,  li^f-lf  ••y  ialMilty  i»««M 
Mill  MM,  ho  ihoBld  bo  btuBodby IhoChfUtiMiMbtto.  It 
wm  vof  dMfato  tet  Boditqpilatado  ohOttM  bo  Mt  *r  wo,  iv 
-mv^MA  Mt  aoMy  gologoihor  without  divtoo  jwloctftti, 
•rf«HhllI*wMOoottwtt«oiyol«nrtloo.  Thio naiiAwoo 
iMffwd  no  with  OB  tbb  oowi«o  I  Boododi  •nd«o*i«pooo4i»y 


'■- 1  triif''!'' •-"'"• '^'■^•^ 


-1 


M  •  mut 


Ml  IwwMwdiM 
palMtotlMwn* 


|iiiiMr>ywBi». 
rMi«fertk*ter* 


p'- 


«||ignd  to 


I.    ]*irkiwor«i* 

teMtkm,Mt 

finHiyttMtot  -  K 
toMt*rM»,ibr 


ikIm 


HMMGRMP 


mif 


■fad  ii  wg»fJ  to  wtl  Jtwf^n,  m  tt  M 
isWbr  «Ims  that  «M«  pMl. 
Iht wMilto dritft hM* >y  ■fpntotiMt,  — *  1 

iMtamofDr.  WUiiMui.  Thajr^ 
iw<  ill  trnkt  MM.  ■■<  m  imM  ■  i 
v«j  wftb  BN  ftvn  tlMir  oowtrf  10  PM  Walla  Wallm  w 
tteCUaaMallrar.  Tlwy  wiaoiri  o— «f  tiwir  ffiaalyal 
yowifWB  fcr  ay  partoaV  '  iiiirti,  a»  bag  aa  I  AoaU 
bawMa<ofiilaHwi»waa«allaiIwte:9|  aadlmgitii 
a  Miliar,  wImi  Mrifemosd  B^UA,  aad  ak»  Mm  Maa 
Mni  iH^wga  ■afldiiiilly  wall  M  lalaipial  iiiuaaaBB  boii. 
aaa^  an^  aaoM  «r  Iha  H**^*****^  *"* '■'7  ""Nf*"**  ^  i" 


•paaptaalaai*] 

Mllaa,aadaiipaarMndlf.  TtwfanpnkaUjr 
ilM  lawl  iliiilali  af  «ha  Ma«ni<aa  of  ««b  afaajr  Mkaa 
wataftWawamaiM  TMraowbjrHwawikwaMartka 
of  llM  CUaaAia,  aaili  «Mla  ba  lba«aat 

af  a^r  fan^  tka  aooatty  ia  Ana  mtttam  wilnai 
TiMy  asa  «i|»a*fiiAlBakaa  and  Boat  Oiggm^  *«m  Wag 
driMBtollMaanaMiitaaaaiainUfti  and  parte  aflhaiwar 
dwrfaftagiaal^iraiahawwAMleold.  Thasraiapava 
iliaUiliMaiaay  MiawlhavaiaM;  kot  Aiir  fOTM^f 
daaa  aol  laMa'lhik  aadliaf  aalvaliaB  tlnai^  CMm. 
^fha  IWasaaKwa  4bai«i  ia  afiiwwani>  ■ad  iWr  MwMy* 
viriakia Mfaid  SMta  F^is  «U «» ba tolaaaMy  f»«Ai^ 


liiifJiMiiilliiMi^^ 


Md  whMiAll  tlM  mountAln  ium  hMUMMnbted;  MMrtlwr  dajr 
of  lodMlgMM  WM  gnwiad  to  IhMB,  la  wlOoh  ftU  nrtrklnt 
IfeMwid*.  TlwiMdajnarttlwoliaMoriiMlMBlw'B 
I  will  nkto  M  ooeafSMM  wWoh  took  plaoo 
MM  MMdag,  M  » iiiWiiiiMn  of  mouBlAiB  Ufc.  A  humor, 
who  fow  tooiuiioolly  bjr  tho  Mn^a  of  tho  gnat  ballf  of  th» 
moiwlAiii^  mpiMtod  Irfi  IMVM  witli  ft  ImmM  riio,  a»l  ohaU 
lMg«l  Mir  FfMMdMMft,  AmorioM,  SfMiaid,  or  OttlolMMa) 
to  Ight  Urn  la  aiiiglo  woriMM.  Kit  Cmoob,  on  Amoriooft, 
toM  hta  if  IM  wlriwd  todie,  ho  wottM  Moopt  tfaoohftUaag*. 

od  plMt^l,  nnlMd  into  ohM  oMrtaot,  tad  bodi  ftbiMM  «t  Hw 
Co  hall  «at»Nd  8*0  iMad,  oaaw  out  ftt 
t)M  irrtH,  mi  pttMi  ttuwih  tho  ana  akoro  tho  olbotri 
aiHMMff^hallpMNdovwtlM  hMdofOMna;  aad  wlifio 
iM  WMl  ftr  aMilMr  pMol,  ihoaaf  bigpdtiiat  Mft  Ufc  aiigll 


1 


oft>«lNb«iUaai 

Ufc.    Tbtjr  fptmx  lo  haw  ooagM  fcr  a  plaee 

iHwg»aMh4y  wmM  mif,  hcaiaa  aataw  lo  it  ufpriwid 

hf  tht  tjriftaaj  of  MUgida,  aod  fManm  !■  aot  awod  bgr  tho 

fiMTO  of  vlftao»    Tho  finiilr  ara  riilUa  hi  aU  tho  vailod 

to  wUoh-hiHnaa  natim,  whhoottho  VMtimtatforoivil 

aad  oultWaiod  aad  poltalMd  Moiatjr,  bmj  bo 

to  yiold.    la  tibe  akooaeo  of  all  thMo  aioilvo^ 

vhMi  thof  trottld  fcol  la  mural  aad  faUglow  aoeio^,  m- 

a  mawof  tho  worth  of  dunaotor,  aad ovta 

.  fba  phoo  to  aarmtialiiod  dlmnlmwi     Thd 

toitoaad  privatloaa  art  00  gVMt,  thm  thojr  mora  madUjr  ooaii 

thimwlrao  bjr  plaaghif  hilo  moh  wmmii,  ao  fe 


mM 


■WiiiflCwiiNlw 


•^ 


RIP 


wiiiiilWii 


of 

[•dtMMdwrdajr 
oh  ftll  rMMtint 
loTliMlraalof'o 
Moh  tMJk  plaeo 
Ufc.  Xhwitr, 
MatbollfofUM 
lriii,awlolwl. 


ivght  fcr  ft  plaoe 

kBBi 

aot  ftwod  bgr  Iho 

iBftHtlMVMM 

HMtrilnHofoWl 
■ooio^,  noy  be 
II 

lOViB 

TMr 
loioiMdUjr 
It  wmiMi.  ••  fat 


■HIMMMNIIIIIMWWMMWMPtH 


IOBAU0M  nWWMOM. 


thiir  mbtftkM  jvdfaMM  oTUiiiVi.  MMft  moot  ftdftplod  to  flirt 
them  ploMura.  Thejr  ||Mftia  the  oommon-plftoe  phneee  oC 
prafcatty  whioh  pntmtt  Mnonf  the  inpioiM  Tulgor  in  oivU- 
iaed  ootntriee.  and  have  mMiy  net  phnaee.  whioh  thoy  ap* 
pear  to  have  maaufholured  amoog  themeelvee,  and  whioh, 
in  their  iw^woatioaa,  they  bring  into  almoet  eveiy  itBtoaoe 
aadenaUeooaiiuae.  Byvaryinf  thetoaeaoftheirT<doee, 
tlMty  bmJm  them  espieirive  of  joy,  hope,  giid;  mi  ftsger. 
li^hoir  hKiUe  among  themeelvee,  titii^  do  not  happen  every 
day,  they  would  not  be  ui^ieneroua.  They  would  aet  •' fltir 
play,"  and  would  "jpare  the  laat  eye ;"  and  would  not  tole- 
rate murder,  onleee  drunkennem  or  great  provooation  oould 
be  pleaded  in  extenuation. 

Their  demoralising  influenoe  with  the  Indiana  haa  been 
lamentoble,  and  they  have  praotioed  impoaitione  upon  them, 
in  all  the  waye  that  einful  propenaitiee  diototo.  It  to  eaid 
they  iMve  eold  them  paoke  of  oarde  at  hi^  prioee,  oalling 
them  the  Bible ;  and  have  told  them,  if  they  diould  reAiee 
to  give  whito  men  wivee,  God  would  be  angry  with  them 
and  punieh  them  etomally;  and  on  almoit  any  ooeaiton 
when  their  widiee  have  been  reeieted,  they  have  thieateaed 
then  with  the  wrath  of  God.  If  theee  thingi  are  true  in 
many  iaHanoee,  yet  fnm  peraooal  obeervation,  I  ibouU  be- 
lieve, their  more  oonmon  mode  of  aooompliehiag  their  wiehp 
ee  haa  beM  by  flattery  and  preeento;  fer  the  moi*  <4  them 
Muaader  away  their  wagee  in  omamento  for  their  women 
aad'ohiUren.  ,  ., 

During  our  Hay,  I  witMend  a  eoane  of  monning  amoag 
the  Shoehoeee,  on  ihe  oooaekm  of  the  death  of  a  eUef 
who  waa  kUled  by  the  Bapahoee,  the  new*  of  whtoh  hid 
but  jiMt  arrived.     The  women  made  loud  lammtattoiM, 


■i 


mmmmmm'F 


eat  mmI  <IWIgu»*<l  them-elvM,  until  Um  Mood  fMi  down 
tMr  ikoM  and  •ewitlly  ol«d  bodii* 

The  IndUin*,  wHh  whom  I  Mn  to  tf«*«l,  li«Ttng  •«»*"• 
•d  tlM  «ln  to  oomiwMW*  tliB  journey  fcr  their  oauB^,  • 
fcw  dayt  weie  ooouirled  In  wrlttag  to  my  fcmlly,  the  Amer- 
loan  Boeitl  of  CommMoiMn  fcr  PorBlga  Mtafcoe,  and 
other  Mndi ;  and  al«>  hi  making  preptfotloaB  for  my  Jour, 
■ly  to  Walla  Walla.  While  we  oortinaed  totWe  plaee, 
theogh  In  the  middle  of  the  day  H  was  warm,  yetthenlthte 
weie  frorty,  and  tea  waa  flw|««»iy  ■»»«^- " 


.■■4.-' 


■^  -^ 


^IftKiM-. 


Hk:- 


liff*^-^-"-  -^"^-^ 


mHaWiMHiM 


mii'ipi 


i***« 


wsssm 


MVAVfWI  'JV  MOf •  WtBftMAMt 


ilood  nui  down 

iMTliig  appoiat- 
iMir  eouDtiy,  • 
mily.tlMAiMr- 
1  MhaioiM,  ami 
OM  for  my  Jour* 
1  ia  thta  plAM. 
■,7«ttlwBl|iMs 


«» 


OKIAPTBR  VI. 

PM  wMk  ay  •MdM»--wri««  M  Im4  wtiM  af  dM  Col«MU»-kM. 
*^  MMsrikcIaAuM-^Mrrawi 

I  g«  Ml  M  ft  I 

t  ftw  OMglUdl  fcdfcW-  HwwWi  HaU—VBlwiito  tknm 
•kMmi  M  kofMkMb-latMMliBi  wonMp  with  Um  1 
Hal  cT  «  eUM— Mwally  cf  fo«l-^  UoMly  MpriT— iala 

I  UMh    gwil>ji|twl  atorrrtl>«»    wmh  tt  aMniliig. 


Aownrr  Slit,  eommMMMd  oar  jounMy  in  oonpaay  with 
Otpl.  Bridgor,  who  |om  with  about  Afty  hmd,  iix  or  dght 
4ayi'  jouriMy  on  owr  lootd.  hrntrnd  of  gola|  down  on  tho 
■outh>WMt  aid*  of  Lowia'  rirar,  wo  oonoludod  to  tako  our 
ooviM  northerly  for  tho  Troia  Tatoaa.  wMoh  ara  thraa  rary 
U|h  Bioiintain^  covarad  with  perpetual  hiow,  aapaiatad 
fton  tiba  naiaahaia  of  the  Booky  liiNiiMaiB%  and  ava  aaaa 
atatrai]rii«at4ii«aaea;  and  ftom  theaoa  to  Salnioa  river. 
Wavtonly  aiwot  thraa  milea  (Srom  the  p'tao^  of  rendeivouo, 


Ob  tha  sad.  I  puM  with  Doet.  WUtmaa,  who  ratnraed 
to  tha  oarnvam  a^  wiOi  theailo the  Uaited IMatoa.  My 
•Mhpa  deaiw  wa%  that  the  Lord  would  go  with  him  and 
mtfrn-Vf,  vay  pioaparoua,  and  make  him  iCeadfaM  to  tha 
«||jMt,of  hJa  reUim,  until  it  ahould  ba  aoooropUdiad ;  i^d 
ttal,  «|th  B«t  yaar'a.oaraTan*  ha  mig|tt  omna  with  aaao- 
aialaa  i0n  thia  promiiiBg  field.  aa4  with  thnn  nap  a  plan. 
tjUm  liaifaal,.  TcHlay  we  iraTeled  twenty  mik^  tjuwigh 
a  aofiiawSiat  btnen  oowntiy.  and  down  aeTwal  M^  da- 
and  anrivad  at  what  ia  oalled  Jaokaon'a  Hfde.  and 


iliiitil'^ht  I'.liAl 


iH 


«noMiiped  upon  •  •"«»  •»'«""  of  "•»•''  «•»'»'»•  »»"*' 
hrmnoh*.  of  th«  Columbi.  riwr.  4t  wm  lnler«-tiii«  fo  find 
my^lf.  fcr  Um  Am  U«e,  upon  th.  wat.r.  of  this  nobU  ri»«r . 
The  Indluu  w«r«  wry  •ttontlra  to  mil  my  w*at»-<ook  th« 
«nUf«  cm  of  my  |»ok«d  •nlm.U,  cooking,  ^.  They  pw- 
Mrve  p»rtlouUr  onier  in  thoir  moremwiU.  Th«  Aral  ohtaf 
iMib  tlw  w»y,  the  ■Mt  ohiefc  follow,  theu  th«  oommoo  mw, 
.nd.ft«llM-th.wm««i««dol»Ud««i.  TUi4M.M<iifn- 
ed  me  WM  with  U*  «n*  chief. 

Found  tome  buflWo  to^y,  cf  which  our  mm  killed  « 
MiMll  Bumber.  The«c  ftin»W»«l  «  timely  wpply.  m  our 
protieion.  were  booominj?  *)eroe.  The  prinolpel  chief  of 
(he  Pletheede  kindly  ftimiehed  me  with  •  hofee  to  relievo 

mine.  _^„ 

Sftbbeth,  9M.  Had  •n  opportunity  for  reel  end  derotten- 
»l  exercieee.  In  the  afternoon  we  h»d  public  worehip  with 
thMe  of  the  oomn»iny  who  undenrtood  Englieh.  The  men 
oonduoted  with  greet  propriety,  end  llrtened  with  ettwillo*. 
I  did  not  feel  eny  dtapoeitlon  to  upbimid  them  for  tbek  eine, 
but  endeerored  effeotlonetely  to  ehow  them,  thet  they  ere 
unfit  for  heeyen,  end  thet  they  could  not  be  heppy  in  the  em- 
ploymente  of  thet  holy  place,  unleee  they  ehoaW  «i«  e«pe- 
rience  •  grwit  morel  ohwige  of  heert  by  the  ^'•^''[^ 
■bee  the  only  eouroe  of  heppiaeee  in  heeTBO  eood^  in 
■erring  end  glorifying  God  forever.  The  jAmm  of  our  en- 
oampment  wee  euch  ee  would  neturelly  fill  the  mind  with 

8olemnltyH«w*  •^»*«  •  '•'^  ''••<*  "*  ^"^  ^^*  ""*'' 
we  had  to  pam,  called  by  the  huntere  Kenyan.  So  Mgh 
%ere  the  moontaine,  that  eome  of  them  wew  tipped  wHh 
perpetual  enow,  and  eo  narrow  the  peemge.  that  twilight 
Aadee  obeourwl  the  view.  The  diitoaoe  throogli  «■*  oe- 
cupy  more  than  a  half  day'e  journey. 


rtiiMieMfMl 


MM  of  the  upper 
itenwting  to  find 
thhinobU  river. 
WMita— 4ook  the 
Am).  They  prc- 
Th«  Ar«t  chief 
Moommoa  mm, 
h«  pUoeMoifa- 

ir  men  killwl  » 
f  rapply.  M  our 
trinoip*!  chief  of 
k  hone  to  relievo 

reet  Mid  (tovotion- 
blie  worihip  with 
glieh.    The  men 
k1  with  ettMitloa. 
am  Ibr  their  eiM, 
im,  th«t  diey  ere 
I  happy  in  the  em- 
■hoaM  fliM  •>?•- 
he  pmoe  of  Ood, 
m.rm  eoneiale  in 
I  plaee  of  our  en- 
HI  the  nriad  wMi 
trrow  defile  wMeh 
myma.    So  Mgh 
wen  Uppedwitfi 
•ge,  thst  twiUght 
tiuroagh  mw*  ee- 


Amm  very  ew^  m  the  tiik,  •mi  iBiwiimi  e«r  vtj 
tknagh  ilM  Mtnvw  44|ti  Ib^tieaily  eiwiiHf  end  nh«rw»> 
iH  •  Mr*  MnHMH  eTwAltv  viyoli  ioira  imo  liw  fltefce  river. 
The  eMMVy  ie  wiM  wid  la  mmy  ptfta  wihHw  mnm 
lalM  of  raek,  aimeal  perpeodieolMr,  alMeUiig  their  headi  tip 
into  the  mfcw  of  perpet—l  mww,  end  ia  one  plao*  pii^ie«|> 
iaf  over  e«r  peth,  if  e  >!§■«  tmll  een  he  ealled  •  paili. 
QHm  we  had  to  paia  over  the  iidee  of  mouatalA^  wMah  ia> 
fNaed  at  an  angle  of  40"  towards  the  etream  of  waier  bekm, 
aad  dowa  wMeh  paoked  malea  have  Atllen,  and  heaa  dialled 
apoa  the  laakt.  I  eodaavoied  to  guide  my  ladiaa  hone  ao 
eautioualy  that  he  heoame  unmaaaf^hle,  haiag  raaolved  to 
ha«ahiiao«raaialhadofohooiti!f  the  way.  I  waaaadairthe 
iiamailiy  af  dJawai^tii^  aad  making  the  heat  of  aqr  waff. 

tian  <ialr  dailiif  laoda  of  §bU^  nhuid,  evea  la  dimaiiiiia 
iri^aea.  vea  ■aadarahla  to  tlia  maat  eautiaae  mmMammumtmt  at 


>of(rfsari 


itimii 


nli  apart,  i»d  fW«B  lis  1*  IM : 

MUftuMOf  A 

If  lajlat  la 
All 

rtt  aw  aagla  of' 


ihi' 


widtk  «f  • 


^ 


tMfe 


1 

mm 


m  im  unw. 


dMk  bMvo  gypMn,  Uka  Umi  tomk  in  tk* 
UMalftU>orN«wYoril.  HvraisrMMaMtMiiaMMl 
•moyad  wMk  Um  lUvi^t  MMH  of  wilphun«fta  hfdragM.  Mrf 
(WW  pw  »t  th«  JBot  of  Ike  OMMMtain  lUMtmr  lk«  bad  of  ffjrfh 
Mv  A  Uif*  Mlphu  -  apriag.  wkkk  Mat  up  mow  Umq  thir- 
ty §iXMm  of  wia*r  per  M(aut«.  Arotui4  tki*  apiriag  w«m 
Uqpi  <i|MatUiM  of  imruHwl  aulpktir,  mmI  m  rtfwgljr  U  tkk 
wtMif  jpUimMd,  that  it  oolon  tha  wMm  oCtkt  fi«M  •gMkii' 
iik  y(iUoir«  on  tb«.  nid*  Mxt  to  lb*  •priag .  fix,  mom  tkM  • 

W^^pMiM  mora  fbiMtt  MnUy,  tkao  iimw  «•  loA  BfMk 
IMHiMwin^i  •iiioiiiwkWiMiNonr*yp*«»,b«i*Mi», 

ioir«|ji«xMpkorry,  mmI  vMkMM  apMl^aoCaknikktfy  WkMk 
M«Mi4b«Bdiiitk«Uait«18tMM.  XkalatfMMwwiVMy 
kind,  apl  Memwl  to  via  whk  «Mk  otkar  lo  Ma  wka  «o«M 
4g^g|tpo«  Ibr  qqr  «mfi>«t.«>  tk^  Owy  M«N  ik>«  MlUi. 

lllBW»l»rt«%«i»#»dyi&fikiaMa(M»«(tlk»itM.  ijy 
i^||i(||pi  kNxgbt  n^iMnii  a^i**  bafito*  wkiak  aw  It^p^ 

wen^liilJN  kv  %  lOMlU  w«i  •fitity^ar  Wlgihtm  J 

mm^  waia  fiiVMi  wf  uMi-kiiiiian%  ^m  wiip^Mijr  i^n,iiM 

i^^fiiWHMf'W'kl' WP*r'W"P^lWpMMMIW%*"*  op^^^^l 
^^laUaMA  Ika  JadiMH  telk»  MimiL  M^LdmnkMi^ktB 

^  !▼'  W  H^^yfwl^W  Rriilfr  MWVMV  ^^'J  ^BPf  jW^fmiM^^^  w^^^WIPW.  iBIBlw^^^p^^ 

Uwii'  9r  Mia  fifar,  fnA^iMMpipad  ki«  iMf*  fliMHt 


l:..i  ririr-^-""  -*>'■""<' '-"'-'■■^^ 


tiismrtTkU 


mmm 


1 


Im  iMd  of  farfu 
•Of*  th«o  Ui4r- 

•iNflffljrtoilii* 


mmti 


■HMaHMH 


ily  mIM  iMkam't  t«ff»  hehi.  It  is 
mm!  ««n  iralM«(l  with  m  bmoh  o^  Lavla*  riv«r  oomtnf  froM 
Um  wotlMiMt,  and  MKMtMr  of  ■nntii  m«fnilo<i«,  oomlng  fimm 
tiM  monk  mm,  wMoli  is  Um  oiitl««  of  3mokmm'»  lah*.  ■  body 
of  wM»>  ^^r.^*^  yam  MHith  of  th*  Trok  TtloM.  TiMi* 
•r*  •Im  nuiny  rwy  Urfo  •frinft  of  water  of  tt^MOMMMi 
olMrntw,  whioh  kwi*  fWxn  th«  bM«  of  lh«  raiTMUMiklf 
nWMiaiiM.  Thk  valUy  ia  w*Il  awppiiad  with  (frMi  •#  •>• 
wllimt  qwility,  which  «m  wry  giateftil  to  our  karaM  sad 
Md  tfw  aridity  with  whioh  th«y  hatpadl  thanwalyw 
llnaB)r,th«]r  would  bo  ramuMratod  ibr  paat  df  riy. 


Flai  la  •  afoiHa— Qua  pioduotioh  of  thla 
IfciiwMii  tJM  flax  «riiioh  lioalthraiad  In  tha  ^JaHtd  I 
l»«v*rytMi^r,«n«|NtliatitiapMmuyal— dtealalh.  Mm  hall, 
iwaaad,  th«  bitt*  flowar  oloaad  in  tlw  day  tiiM  aaiafpaa  is 
iw  avaniaf  aad  iwmiag.  Tha  Indiaaa  naa  it  ftr  laaktaf 
Mia.  FlaUioftliiBllaiMdgiMhanfiMradUhaffaaa; 
Matoo  ht§»  td  nm  tm  4mf  taia  ika  mifk, 
Uk^pAl^iVlfoimi  a«daBadvaaia«a,iriMMl«Mi«MM 
iMMt  ii^  itellkara  «i«M  ha  a  aaviaf  «r  I 
kt$.  It  h  Ml  wtffiky  tha  a»|^ifaBal  of 
I 


J^-MHy  J^^-Jftm 


_.. ^ 


t*  Wa 

iailaad 
and 
af 


ia  tUa  laad  waia  Midow.    TImm  «• 

yalkw,  pala  mI,  md  hlaak.    Ths  fMilMr 

waw  tba  kaal  flavwrad.  ^^ 

i  Ai  Ma  «»MM|mMM  tbnta  day%  laf^air 

aypuWlty  »  faawdt,  — d  far  OapMiB  Brilpr 

■d  att  aaww^  of  Ma  aMii  hrta iM  iMiilalaate 

Whwl  Kiflaoiad  t^aslha  »foh«tfliiy, lh»t 

M  woiiM  Mvar  latomto  tiwir  MmAi,  bm 


siattj 


\mnmt 


M  nOVMAW  tMinOTi 


wfuM  And  tMr 


latik* 


Mjr  hMft  VM 


thrir 


About  Hit  ffwltMafi  of  flM0H7Mlww!d.  l|wr««Mk«r 
Umoi  ft  Ibw  tiMto.  tor  whtoh  thay  •ppwi^  gwitlki'^  mm! 
mM  tbcy  wobtd  Iw owopMqr  fcr  thMtttethdr  Um\y  imM } 
Md  M  tkiy  lod*  awajPt  I  oould  only  pviy  fiw  tlwir  Mfttjr 

Mid  MlVtiliMi!' 

Dttri^  our  oomiiiaMMo  Hfw,  I  toA  AR  liidiMP  i»«N»> 
■k»Nrt.  maA  Mwdod  <■»  uftka  Mglmit  mooMliUw  k  te 
vMdlyv  «  «iMv  <1m  MinMiadbig  ooofttr*.  :^  piwpMt 
iMMMaitMMa*  m  *•  ty*  >««  iMaiii  dirwdit*  wiik 
inMiiiiyM,liUb.piiaiii,«ad  valleys.  Moit  of  the  moiwlrtii 
«»M  MtWNd  with  woodbi  iMt  tiM  plaiMi  aod  «dl«y»«rM» 
jM««Mid  with  gittM,  ynMDiiaf  »«i  •!  Wgfct  CMisli^MMfMK. 
;*i»^f^jt«  «ipMiMl  «>kM»  «h*«:<«<M«  It  inwiii^vlft 

.fT^ -    Atealiiity  mBw  to  tlM^«>l  tkniUil^HniM^ 

takHfi^^lNloSMd  thra^  tM  'vhA»n»m'i  «rviite>i|iM 

■  "^urik  tlw  TH»  IMoM,  ftdhMW  of  M|h^qiai»^  lAiiWlihn, 

>iiiimd^«rM.fMptai«i^M«^  <ftM^£MMt 


7»-i 


feiHtHiii  iriiiimwiijiiiif'DMiniiK^iiiiM  iiiHiiifiWil 


^bMi»  ^  ladihwi  •■w^tiwi  <Ni'iMf  "n«#ii#«» 


jmMIMm 


I.IW  1)11  II I  \tmmmmmmwmm\  iii  \\\mnmmmmmm 


nMiM>aiiM|*pm 


||WlfS«Mll«f 


ocmttiw  k  Am 
>ftli»aioiuim>i 


m 


MlpddbMMrt,  la  viMKli^  tbcasMMM  fa) 
4n  dMir  wAjT,  MdwinMM  by 

iMvn  ooet^tfi  te  iliii  MwiMiai^  I  immM^  m  IN 
autokfiMUM  iritis  whrt  j,  IH|  piij  rflfc» 
4<oilu>  at  004  t)i9  m41  k  Urif  fMllqr  Md  «iw  thi  littli, 
k  bbukaad  do|^«id  lh»  tfn*  will  «aiiw»  mkmtimwiltwit 
wlkkwnrfMfAUivlUhrlMliatiM  lowiag  tf  Mkiwi 
ymkc^if  floolu.  tMJ  *»»»  -J-^^K  Kill  at^MMikftal^M^H^Mi 

^jrtk^cd  ygJi^;  naAliwwi  ■way  aljMiJrtU  iiw^ji.  <lp  il|» 

,^'hi(ll|ll»^.|]M^f.ilMhi  oC.4lwxir;Wfit;,lpiiiA  dlMl 

mwhiftiftiiflMit  irhinh  wMBtMUM^i^ndBr 
mwifif ^wtHft  mAiiMf  <faM>-itfa  ihk  nf  Iha  aw ^iliiliitiMii 

'i^UKf'''''W**fl*''  WP'PiP'PipJN*-  ''■•'''^owpawppilljjpjpillli- 

'^P|P|^WH^,'VmO^'Vvv»  V,.,^«|^^^  p^^^^.,pi^  .^^^^^MP  l^^p^^^K^' 

liiiahiHiiF4aE»«  Tim  hikBikr  am  ntttfiaBT  tfafclrfiit  tIm 
sMHiatliHi'Jaid -thair  flaaBM^aailMaa  aAadkMkaMli''aMk 

'jaotkukulWiiiHiar  -Iil  JHiJaaK«i 
daaMBt'-atasi^nBaak^^vaodt  aHaa-^taaia 

[,^*JWT^^^*^^F' j,  ^^^^'  ■  ^^^^  ^T^^jP^-  7^^^^^^^^^  '^^T^T^w     w^^TWI^p 


Wl 


mffm*. 


mm 


mmmmmm 


i\  ;■■» 


m\0  mmmmt:  t""  ' '     ''  if "  ' '  '"f " '" "  *^^*''*^^ 

■  ^u.  ^     ».  ,-..».w.,ai..fj»-^.:>     /»..        tmt  -'liifft'rTiiitoB 


iir  iiiiiliiiiiii  niii  iaiw«  nfHrtM"^  iiiiiiiiii«i:%ife 

ii|flliflffiii--mir-trt|f^-*' 

'MM^  ■■WW*  ^p»  w^^^w  I 


iiiMtfWliiiMMill)'iTMiW 


I.II  mi  iipiiwuiii 


lwiippiiiiinniH.wiifiii.iiii  1 1  III 


am-*-  ■ 


ri^-'WrMifriiiilit'' 


na  MVMi  "ir  raoadi's  aoti. 


ihrivmfd  t»  iliiNilMl  tmar^TpaiW  ^nm*  ivad  «|Mi  and 
MMld'i  Whm  tii»  latfiaa  i«»  tMr  Jaagar,  llwy  Itdl  Ip 
dhr  iMIfllMrood'  irM*  wi  wMow»  wMdi  i»m»  MMtMd 
•Mjl  «lip«lrMuJi'«r  ivitM',  Md^  takkig  •dvHMag*  af  mmm 
iailMi  tMMi  ooMtimeiwr  !••  gaof  ddfaw  m  tkw  aiii  «!»• 
tiiui—liie^a  wwrii  fttrmS^'  Ttey  ir»w  pwniy  ym»  Wrf  wUh 
fHJal%  aiir  ««ir6  atRl  moM  ikMiMto  orMmmnMaik  71m 
«lfpM  IfiMpfa^p  Mt  of  tll»i««0i»ertlliir  aniMril  t^^ 
'VlM'ai'iliBd  with  th»  lwr«r  MImi  msdi  tht^oiUBit  miiq— M 
<iiB  HtceiflM Hill  Umto  uaaqoal,  «Hbc«t^  «*  wmiiMrtiiat 
WltaiMiiiUwt,  iBiy ^iWi  wriBfcroed'  by  ftiinii  tai  iww- 


'^immmrttf^  tf |WH  \M%ii  '<!» 


^N|'«M^||iM«i:%Mll»  '«!•.  fkiiKlivillfe 


f^^' ,' 


,wi<feurMia;M.!ii^«ai,iiu  i^y  iijii 


Miri 


wpppiiHHiPP 


iplHli 


a 


;;.<^y.      "MW.- 


■■r?C^Srn:*rr^^^ 


'nH^ifii^^i^Siime 


^ 


i^»  mA<b«i 


^'■«t-  :^fe^>i|<>^ 


jiniiiinii 


•Kip* 


«  b  tMt  fkM  I^Mid  «Mi  OipiriB  BrMpt  aid  Urpwt^ 

PlW  VMM  BOrliMMliMVlll*  BmMMM  to  tMv  iNOMiiHr 

gMOBdy  wMoh  tha  BhioMbtt  «Wn,  nd  fcrwkMiihafvttl 
■liwd.  Tlw  im  dMafef  Hw  PbMhMib  aii  Mr  iMott^ 
«idi»ft(vof  lil»pe«plv«wt  withOartda  lMdfw,llMM 
tk^  nigk  oomUmi*  iHtMa  tiM^xwigvor  iMflUir  tfaKMgli  (iM 


"»^tIW  NtB  Fto(o4%  Md  tiM  FlithMidi,  vlik«v|M»il<i 
wrfl  oiNMM  JM^mMttftgnkm  ai 


ilim'm»«fcl-fMt  <f  UMiiDil  Midi  would M  .^^ 

iiiii|j'itj:#»Pi#liiiri)fiaiiiiiiiriiii<i«tiwllijpi^.'iiii^ 


itiliipiiMiliM 


i^iiiliiV^Mt^&ItX^S^ 


mmnmm 


•lmfol^«MlU»««fM«fMUikM.toO«l.    kwwplMii. 

ioM*^  tkto  imnM  Hwlt  bMHM  tiM  kiBjplBiM  oPUm  ht$A 
•rMt«#M«€lnM^*nlh0alMMMignfer»iwr;  todtlMtifaA 
tlM«  wfll  oMH*^  wtMB  *U  «MI  kaMT  the  Urdr  ted  <M 
•tell  te  MiNlAil  49  ilMir  OBfigMieaiBM^  Md  tMr  iIm 
■ad  ini^iiMM  h0  will  ramember  no  more. 
mmi»fi  Itlit     Wkll«tlMbidiu»<w«MpMkiagMd|pf»- 

.«ii^yiifMl«#^  d«rUi|  *nMi  of  fcwhfa  «*»«•*« 


'Hit 


«it  «oih#'MMkrliii*'i#M*  M«l 


iftn^f 


,,  ;♦,.,■.  %,ftv»i»; 


.ilM>^«lfc«b--««lt  wtm-miA 


fUMMvU* 

thiir%iiiiw'iV-1gi» 


•MM 


•i  MHiMMiiwiiJHiMMr  «tfii«^'fii^*"<i#*>iiW 


liWuM— Ifi 


wmm 


^HMHlwkbif: 
am  t^HtfUMA 

MkingMilrili' 

Mo'^wMmf-iii 


>■   '-c-!! 


i»  (M|(*aii'llto, 


lion  ViPWWP" 


m 

»«•  fMk«4  up)*  Jmhm.    tHMBoMMMi,  mi 

IftUy  MpM  Mlii.  TktjMalMlM4Mp«BtlM«Mlai»kM9 
Ihipi  Snm  MUng  lAm  Aiy  iImp^  ^rliMi  Ihiy  oAm  «• 
wkM  ttejr  hMNNM  &t%iM4.  Thay  tlm  iwUm  «pM  Iht 
hanm  ikoiiM*i«j  mmI  vImi  thtf  awAlM.  l»y  M4  oT  tlw 
whip,  whioh  is  fiMMMd  (0  the  wriM  of  tiMto  i^tehwKl,  iM4 
•pplg^  i|«|Mily  «o  (Mr  kmw^^Md  it  i»  lilnalriMit  to 
«•§  Jioir  timm  mh  omtMM  wMl  fuid*  wri^^M  tte^ 
QUUfiMi  wMok  AN  itiU  yoM«M»  •!«  imt  iMa  pt  t&MMi* 
«liM  m^  wi»h  •  bniMk  at  (U  -took  (iai  lunHblmr  «pw|| 
«iWl>4  *•  otter  fMt»»  ««««rad  whb  ohNli  witWa4ioii|4ll|* 


^  ^^^w'^^i^^p*'  W'^lliHF 


ifMfTriflHlllfflftlftiTI'  TiUBt-f  !■#  talwa  aiii  In  ^M^te. 


■•         ••'. 


"iMIif" 


mmmmm 


mmmmmmmtimm* 


tfwK  ia  ail  tlH*  Oii  iM 

Htm 


«if«ityitoviltarlMHU».    Oi«iidHiaiy*«Fwk,«*«Aw 
MtMh  of  L««Hi'  rtwfi  wirtrfi  taltoidf  •  fkwaf  •«•  ■•§• 

llB'l ;  ^iw  '"•"J  wdiwifciitlilt »!«»»««* •»«»•>*• 

t  mm  jjcri  *•  ^aak  of  Iht i'l^'*'i tnntHmmvf  «mmi> 
wZtwSkm  6mm  gwrth  of  Awbbvf  -    ®T  *^  •f 


W  itiiJBm.'tiii'^w  ito 


itBiiiiiiiciiiiMiijiitjMiigiMiie^^ 


kirlltft 


Bur.    ThiiT  ^ 

MMgqr  wwii 

o«rJoaiM]r  ^ 

•rermMflMr 
dlKdaftfirntflM 

MMlIf  hOMi  III 


^ 


mrnMvmm  i* 


Ml 


■nhrtmlly  dHvMtd  ia  iIm  Motra,  m  Um^  m  Mplo. 
■iM  iMd  taken  ptao*  a^^  thty  «•(«  iMiHuH.  At  m>mc 
^■toao*  from  na  w*n  Mvaml  Mils,  rWag  in  h%ii  oemm 
mum  kimdrad  fct  two  of  tiMm  I  ahoiibl  judgo  to  «m  aot 
iir  from  tkrM  thouMiU  6«t  high.  I  did  not  havo  m  «pp«». 
tunily  oraumiaiair  their  fjaologiodi  foniMtion. 

Wa  arrived  at  evening  at  a  amall  branch  of  the  Salmon 
river,  which  waa  the  firet  water  we  had  fiMind  through  the 
day,  and  upon  which  waa  good  gnua  for  onr  horaee.  Hera 
Kentuo,  mj  Indian,  caught  aome  exoellent  trout,  which  waa 
»  very  gmteAil  ohaage  of  food. 

Our  prograea  during  the  next  day  waa  through  a  banaa 
(vaet,  aa  yaatoiday,  where  there  ie  no  vcKotatioo  eseefit 
wemweod,  wMali  gnwa  very  hurgai  A  aioggiah  atrana 
bofdeNd  wMi  wiUowe,  aflbfded  ua  aoroc  oonveniemee  for 
Mtoffing  at  night.    Thenaometor,  at  nooa,  W. 

Wa  Havalad  on  thelfourth,  five  hoora,  and  eaoanped  by 
ftatiaaaa  of  water,  ia  CotA's  da«ie,  whioh  Qoaaaa  out  of  tha. 
nMUBlaiaa  aad  b  loal  in  the  banea  piaina  below.  Col^a 
daila  paaaaa  through  a  range  of  Ufh  mouaiaiaa,  and  aaoM 
of  tfMfar  aanmito  are  ooveiad  wkh  mow.  IfootoflWday 
waa  uaoomfortably  ooU  with  Mow-aqualk.  Theffmoawlar, 
at  MOB,  64f>. 

iiidagr,4tk    Ta^Uy  I  raeeivad  a  letter  ftuai  Fort  Hall, 

iMt'iliiiH>a  inritalfain  Aent  Mr.  A.  Baker  to  apaod  tiw 

itelBr^willi  W»i  but  the  (itfaai  for  whkh  I  had  paaMd 

tk»  Baaky  MowntakM  vafniied  me  to  punaa  my  lour,  aari 

tf  poarikiala  nadbHw  Raoifla  Oaaaa,  and  to  ntnm loPb0 

Vaaaopmi  kaApa  arialar. .  Wa  ptevidaathHy  laamad  thai 

•ilM«»<kMMl  oCHiw  Ftoote  waa  a  fow  aiUea  hatow  ntf  aoi 

tMMfU  eoBMt  to  oa  ta^aoRwr.   -We  had  baeonaa  akamt  daa- 

titute  of  proviaipna,  but  to-day  Ulled  a  fow  bufllilo. 

10 


(iiiiiHia^MaMiiiiii 


Tl»  monUiHr  ti  ^h»  mk  wm  wry  mU.  W«  < 
ia  «ur  •noMnpmMH,  lo  glir«  Um  band  of  Nw  Pm«4«  aa  of. 
portiuiHy  lo  Jote  im,  umI  aboat  Um  nMdU  of  «Im  day  th^ 
raiM  ;  Um  prindpal  ohief  marohlnff  in  froat  wttk  kk  aM, 
aarrying  an  Amarioan  flag  by  kii  Mm.  Thay  all  miag  A 
marah,  whlU  a  fow  baat  a  lort  of  drum.  At  thty  inm 
AMr  they  diaplay«d  oolamna,  and  mad*  quite  an  impoitng 
appearance.  The  women  and  children  fcUowed  in  the  rear. 
Tfei-qain.4U-wi.tleh,  and  other  ehiefli,  arranged  their  people 
ia  the  Mme  order  and  went  out  to  meet  them ;  and  whaa 
we  had  approaobed  within  tm  rode  of  each  other,  all  halted, 
awl  a  aalute  waa  fired,  in  which  I  had  to  take  the  lead. 
Thay  then  diemounted,  and  both  bamhi  fcrnied  into  eiagle 
ila,  and  meeting,  ehook  hand*  with  ma  and  each  olhar  in 
token  of  friendehip,  andto  expieee  their  joy  toeeeooaaanM 
among  them  to  teach  them  reepeetiag  Gkid  and  ■alieliM. 
The  principal  chief  of  the  other  band  who  ia  called  ChafUa, 
Md  ia  the  fliat  chief  of  the  Nea  Percd  natkn,  ia  a  gaad  lack. 
lag  man,  hia  coantamnce  rather  alara,  inllllig«rt,  aadM. 
pnaaiTC  of  maoh  deoiaian  of  character.  I  Baver  aaw  joy 
vptaaaed  in  a  more  digniiad  manner,  than  when  ha  look 
mm  flrnily  by  the  hand  and  welcomad  ma. 

In  the  afternoon  I  took  Keatuo  and  rode  five  milaa  la  aaa 
■  promiaence  of  inleiMting  appaaraBoa.  It  ia  dataafcad 
from  the  makk  mountain,  alaada  on  a  plaki  (HMBtha  aaat  (Ma 
of  OMi'a  defile,  k  about  a  half  mUa  in  oirounAniica  at  tka 
baaa,  and  riaaa  i^  abruptly,  haviov  BMal  of  Ma  vaal  aMa 
parpaadioular.  It  ii  moia  than  two  hiadtead  Aal  U^  Mid 
haa  a  level  horiaontal  atwumit  of  eighty  vadb  leaf,  aoKii 
aad  aoiith,  and  twenty  roda  wide.  Tba  la^ge  i|iia»liiiaa  of 
lava  aad  anygdnldd  which  naialy  eonpoaa  ft,  hxakk 


mmmtMimimtmmmtm 


«mKmm'!'*f'"^ 


w« 


of  tiM  day  tbay 
mt  wttk  hk  aM, 

Ii«y  ftll  Miaf  '• 
AsUity  draw 
lito  an  imfodng 
iwedintlMnar. 
gad  their  paople 
wm ;  wkI  whan 
otbar,  all  kaltad, 

0  taka  tha  kaad. 
nnad  ioto  aingla 

1  aaoh  oHmt  ia 
'  to  aaa  ona  ooaM 
i  aadaahrallM. 
BoalladCtwrUa, 
ik,iaa|aadlaak* 
lllisaa«,aiirias. 

navar  aaw  Jogr 
I  whan  ha  look 

fiva  milaa  lo  aaa 

poB  tha  aaal  M» 
mfiNMioa  at  dH 
orMa  waaliUa 
ad  ftalhi^Mid 


ijga  (pMuMWaa  of 
ipoaa  k,  AuaUi 


ifmrn 


A  i4Mf«A>«  Ul 


mmmmmmm 


<  atlm  havfaiff  baaa  Ibaad  aad  Ihwwn  up  hf 
I  flraa. 

In  tha  avaniag  I  mat  tha  ohJafc,  and  aa  many  aa  oohM 
aammhla  ia  tha  lodge,  and  aiplaiaad  to  thoee  whom  I  had 
not  aaan  bafcia,  tha  ob^  of  my  miaiOon.  Charlie,  tha  AnI 
ohiaf,  aroaa  and  apoke  with  muoh  good  wuiao  fcr  aome  time 

nwtfcmed  hie  igaoranea,  hia  deaire  lo  know  more  about 
Ood,  Mid  hia  gladaaaa  of  heart  to  eaa  one  who  oan  toMh 
hkn  I  awl  aaU.  "  I  have  been  like  a  little  ohild,  uneaay, 
Ibalhm  about  in  tha  dark  after  aomethi^^,  not  knowing 
what ;  but  now  I  hope  lo  laam  «mething  which  wiU  ba 
■abatantial,  and  which  will  help  me  to  teaoh  my  people  to 
da  light."  I  loldthamioMMmwwottId  be  theflabhalki 
aai  asplainad  to  tham  tha  natnra  of  Iba  bMlitiiliaa,  aiid  thafr 
ohUgattoo  to  nmienahar  and  keep  it  holy.  They  ax| 
thair  teira  to  obey,  and  ■ahl  they  would  not  raoaora  i 
b«l  attand  to  tha  woraUp  of  Clod.  PravidaiMiaUy  thaM 
onma  to  aa  thk  aAamooo  a  gaod  iataipwtot  finooi  FactBall, 
wkia  was  wUlia|  to  lanaia  with  m  over  Sabbath,  aa  th«t 
I  dbaU  ba  able  to  piaaoh  to  tha  pao|4a. 
ilk.  Bariy  tkia  OMfiiing  om  of  I 
abaul  aae^  tha  people,  aMi  with  a  hwd 
i  to  than  tha  iaatruoUaaagivaa  laat  avaniag ;  told 
thaasMwaa  tha  8abbath,aadthay  moat  prapara  fcrpMbUa 
w«NUp.  Abaut  eight  b  the  nwmiBg,  aoeM  of  the  oUaft 
OMM  to  am  aad  aakad  where  they  ahould  aaaanhla.  I  aa. 
^Mlnd  if  IhayaottM  not  baaaoonraodatad  under  thaahata 
of  the  icUloaw,  wMeh  akiitod  tha  atraam  of  water  on  whiah 
w  van  waifig.  They  thoi^  they  oould  aol  an  a*, 
oonal  af  tlwir  nan^an.  I  than  anqniiad  if  they  oonld  not 
tidw  te  poke  efaoBM  of  their  lodgaiaadoaMtniotadbada; 
and  wHiwnt  tuf  athiw  diraotiona  they  want  and  made  pra- 


f  / 


% 


itm 


Hawiuiiiwaiiiiiiiiliiiiili 


psntlan«  mm  nwwb  MCfMi  •'oiobb  mmm  mw  mm  wiKf 
w«m  ready  (br  wurahip.  I  fimnd  them  all  •*■»•'  '  • ',  aiMt, 
woMMi,  Mirf  oyUnin,  batwMm  (bar  tmi  At*  iMmdiwd,  in 
wiMkt  1  wmU  oftll  •  MkaotiMry  of  Uod.  ooafllnMt«d  willi 
llwlr  Wii%«t,  aMrly  on*  huiwirwi  tiMt  Iodk  umJ  about  iwwity 
(••(  wkU ;  and  all  w«r«  arnutifcd  in  rows,  throuffh  Um 
leoflUi  o(  Um  buikUitf  upon  Uiair  Iumm,  wteh  •  nwrrow  apM* 
ill  Uw  rokkll«,  UngUiwiM,  raMiabUnp  m  siala.  Th*  whoU 
•r»«  within  WM  oarpctad  with  thair  draaawi  akiiia,  and  thay 
war*  all  la  thalr  baat  attira.  Tha  oiuefii  wara  amagad  tei 
•  aamidrsla  M  thm  and  whioli  I  waa  to  oocmfj.  1  covld 
not  Imv*  Miavad  lliey  had  tha  maaiM,  or  oould  hara  known 
iiOW  to  aivot  H>  oDnveniant  and  ao  deoanl  a  plaaa  for  wor* 
aMp,  and  ai|iaei«lly  aa  It  waa  tJia  Arat  tima  thajr  bad  avar 
lind  poMk  worahip.  TIm  whola  irigirt  affaotad  ma,  and 
AUad  ma  with  admimtion ;  and  I  lalt  na  ihoticb  it  waa  tha 
hoMi  of  Qod  nod  tiM  gata  of  hanvan. 

Th*)r  all  eontinuad  is  a  taiaaUng  poritka  during  ibigtag 
and  pmyafi  and  whan  I  oloaad  prayar  with  Aman,  thay  all 
Maid  what  waa  aquiTalont  in  thair  langnago,  to  Aman.  And 
whan  I  oofnmanoad  aarr>oa,  thay  aotad  thamaalvaa  baoJc 
•»fNn  (hair  haala.  I  ai».  '  •«  «"■  tha  ori(^nal  oooditian  r" 
lona  whan  Ant  craalwV    ••>  d  tha  nu.'  ^  .uid  ainftri 

oaaditiwi  of  all  hmoIu^  ,  .^  la»  of  Ood,  and  that  all  ara 
tiMMgroMeri  of  thia  law  and  aa  auch  ai«  aipoaad  to  tha 
wrath  of  Ood,  both  in  thia  Ufa  and  tha  lifa  to  eoma ;  and 
thantold  thamofthamaray  itfGod  in  giving  hia  Son  to  dia 
for  ua»  and  of  tha  lovaof  tha  Savior,  and  that  though  ha  da- 
■iaaa  our  aalvation,  ha  will  not  mvo  ua  unteaa  w*  hata  da 
and  put  (MIT  traat  in  him,  and  lova  and  obaj  hin  with  nil 
our  haart.  I  alao  andaaTWMd  to  ahow  than  tha  aaoMatty 
of  nnovatioo  of  heart  by  tlia  powar  and  graoe  at  tha  Holy 


•M 


mwTirtinpi 


r«  Imudmi,  in 
omnmUtA  mink 
li  aboMt  iwantjr 
i,  through  Um 
I  BMrrow  apM)* 
ir«,  TlMwh«l« 
ikiaa,  wkI  they 
M  amiigcd  in 
ttpy.  I  ooiitU 
lid  Imt*  knows 
plaaa  for  wor« 
thoy  iuid  evor 
MitM  nM|  niid 
igh  it  WM  tlw 

kama,  Umjt  all 
a  Amen.  And 
momIvm  bank 
ml  oonditian  p" 
u  -'  Mfi  iinM 
knd  tiinl  nil  tarn 
npoMd  to  tW 
toeomo;  and 
I  liit  Son  to  dlo 
t  though  ho  dn> 


7  hin  with  nil 

tiM  nonnMny 
oe  of  iho  Ho^ 


411  tnetAH  tvBui:-  Hi 

Spirit.  Told  thorn  th«y  mtun  pray  li>  (hi  fbr  th«  forgive. 
nom  of  thoir  sin*  anil  fbr  Mivalion.  Tb«y  gave  th«  utmooi 
SMMRtlon,  and  cntira  MilliMai  proraUod,  Mooptinf,  whon 
cuno  truth  anrwtad  thoir  mindi  forcibly,  a  littU  humming 
sound  paaaod  thrmigh  tho  whoU  aaaembly,  oooupying  two 
or  thrM  aeoonda. 

I  noTar  apoho  to  a  more  iatereating  aa«mbly,  and  would 
not  hava  ohangnd  my  audinnoo  for  any  othar  upon  aarth ) 
and  I  folt  tliat  it  waa  worth  a  journey  aomaa  tite  Rooky 
MouBlaina,  to  enjoy  thia  one  opportunity  wi«h  tittmt  heathen 
who  are  ao  aniioua  to  obtain  a  knowledge  of  God.  I  hope 
that  in  the  lairt  day  it  will  be  found  that  good  was  done  in 
the  name  of  Jk"<u»  If  Christiana  oould  have  witnessed  this 
day's  serrioe,  n  would  have  enlisted  tluir  sympatMas,  and 
thay  would  be  willing  to  do  soaethinf  adequate  to  tha  ooa* 
vanisn  of  thseo  perWiing  sonltk 

An  Indian  boy  about  sixteen  yean  old,  who  belonged  l» 

Iha  band  wMeh  Jotned  us  yesterday,  died  this  momii^.    He 

was  spssohlaas  when  he  waa  brought  tiere.     We  attended 

his  Aineral  in  the  afternoon.     They  buried  him  in  a  very 

dassnt  mannar,  without  any  heathen  r^f$,  eaoepling  that 

rtiey  buried  with  him  all  his  clothee  and  blankets.     I  ad. 

drasBsJ  the  panple  at  the  grave  upon  the  subject  of  the  ra- 

•urraetion  and  of  the  judgment.     This  was  entirely  new 

to  them  and  vary  bilaresting.    Tai.4|uin-su<wA.tish  oaroe  (o 

my  tsm  towards  evening,  and  saM,  what  I  had  said  was 

"  (ti»,**  k  was  s|^ritual,  and  now  he  knew  mora  about  €k)d. 

Bo  de^  was  the  hrteieat  awaksned  by  the  fow  idea*  thair 

banightad  mfaMis  had  obtained  of  this  most  preoioua  tmlh  of 

onr  relifiQa,  that  they  oama  to  my  tant  after  I  had  relfared 

to  rest,  and  awakened  me,  to  go  and  oonversa  stM  iailher 

with  them  on  the  subieot 

10* 


MMNM 


mmmi 


^  ^ 


Mi'  OVUM  womrKAun. 

"<1lbBi»y,  Wi.  W«  tntelfld  «▼«  hww  to^y.  The  In* 
Mnw  nwkn  «k>ir  pvogrcM  in  tn.*«liiig  with  their  vfllege ; 

ibi>  it  tekwi  thMa  •  <o^  *{">«  t>  P*<*  "^  ^P*^' ^  "^  ^ 
Mid  ttdM  down  their  lodgee.  Thie  is,  however,  of  little 
coiMequeMe  to  them ;  fat  whererer  they  ere,  that  ptaoe  ia 
their  home.  "^ 

They  are  <refy  Uad,  and  maniftet  their  ItiMbieae  in  anti- 
tiipatinfall,  and  more  than  all  my  wmnta,  «iiioh  they  have 
the  fwwer  to  aapply.  They  oonenlt  me  apea  all  dMtr  iw- 
pomnt  brndaeae,  cod  are  ready  to  fi>Ilow  nay  oiiiMnle. 
tlmr  am  atteMive  to  flindeh  littfe  tjomfevta.  If  AeMm 
ahlMe  wMi  nitfoh  warmth  into  my  tent^  they  will  ootgreMi 
Itsabea  and  eet  them  up  fi>r  ahade.  A  few  day*  riaoa, 
w«  miiaiiiiniiil  where  there  wf  eome  ftagtant  plaate  of  it 
i|eal(M«rmittt,  and  the  wife  of  Tai^^iniMS^wt-flrih  wl*% 
iinr  other  women,  eolleoted  a  quantity,  «ni  irtfowed  Unmi 
faiiajtaaii.  ^    ' 

We  p«Md  loAy  mevntaiue  of  "ndonia  Mofte,  «id'^c««r 
«  ImMtMi,  Uadk  aoil«  wkafte  we  fiwmd  «  good  eapipry  of 
ftttn  iNT  ow  faonwr«t«i|^. 

<iJOMMamii,oa  jjygdii  wae-ooatiaued  a»  neoal.  My  health 
HlhMto,  iiMe  I  oeotmmeed  nqr  joameyt  hae  heea  imMer. 
Mptadly  good  witil  lo4ay,  whM  I  eiiflbnd  »  abghf  aimit 
terinfliBDMMBtiflB  <^^  ltmg%  ih  •oBamoMHe  afs  aelk 

Hw  ladiatt  mde  of  liviofr  b  vevy  piwailMa,  aai^ 
AeyH»aeyeaBatttioae«l»ittbeftMara.  Wkmbey^m* 
n  pleMy,  Oey  «re  not  epari^ ;  «ad  wtea^My^w*  la  wttHT, 
thiydottatwsaid^i.  The  laftaaa  ail  tide  lima  (Witali^ 
JMNI  doalitiile  f^  pwvMwi^  *n^«e  ww*  ippwuiMli  tl» 
aUnni'irfvttr HHiuntaiQ^  «o  paea  mw  «Mh  immi'iia* 
tucen  twaliw  iu4  ftftendi^  aa^wHew  ftei*  «m  i^lMi^^ 
&I0  aad  aoaroely  tacy  odier  fame*    I^Mi « | 


gjipii 


<iiapMii'mi|i.i..niwiiiiii 


•CAacirr  or  rMTuwnw—TautL/  suntr. 


l«f 


ity.  The  !#• 
their  vfllege ; 
|Mok,  toeeti^ 
rever,  of  Iktle 
e,  that  plMe  te 


inftiiti- 

hioh  dwy  b*Te 

SB  ell  their  iw- 

my 

t»i  If  the  Mm 
'Will  out  glMM 
liw  ihty*  riooe^ 
mt  pUtato  af  li 

I 

Rl.   MykMlft 

lebMA 

•  Bli^Mmii 


eem  fcr  tfiem,  tiaat  Oed  would  aetd  a  eopply  befiwe  we 
iriMnild  |«t  be^aad  the  noffe  of  bu&lov  end  wea  oonfident 
tiuit  w»  ■heuld  es{i«rieaae  the  tnrth  of  Hi*  WMdj  that  he 
providM-fer  all  their  pncat  in  <hw  eeaeoa ;  Md  aa  the  eattle 
upon  the  tfaouaaiid  hilla  are  Ua,  he  wtiOd  not  wfthhoM  hie 
pMvidaotial  oare  fiom  na.    -  ,  < 

We  oentinued  to  paaa  bamltie  ^aMmtaiae;  aad  abo 
paaeed  eome  very  white  marl  olay,  which  the  Indiaae  uae 
^teleaoaiiig  their  nibee  and  other  gamwnta  made  of  dres*. 
•deUaa. 

Theb  4MKie  of  do^  tUa  ia  to  oake  the  alay  into  a  pagl^ 
Mid  ntl>  it  opcM  the  garuMili,  aod  wfc^r^  it  beooroea  dsy 
Hmf  nbUvt,  wUek  praoeaa  leaTeatha  gwtmeat  eei,  cleaia, 
%iMi  wUta.  We  eveaiapad  t»^hjr  trtMM  the  bdktm  had 
hate*  Mide  aa  eatevpmeu'.  a  Sittto  belov  *  aieifr 
Naar  aigte  I  waa  aiaKaMd  hjr  ahoati  vt  Iattui»aad<«  i 
eari  nub  uplhe  haak.    I  haalaned  ap  aad  aaw  gnat  i 

tBWavdaonr  ean^.     it  pgrovad  to  ha  a  ftnt 

race,  aisoli  ae  th^  frequeatfy  exereiea  thaawelfaa  ia^  te 

thaparpeia  af  tepvoving  dvb  agHiQr. 

;  i-flq^tamhar  M^  I  waa  aieMiaMNiH*n^»4a9r  vanaax. 

fMUMlIf  «aw  hiftnMHli  teiga  haod  of  baOila)  aad  halMd 

:ilriaalMr.-pMpai«tia»  Aa  'tha'^MMff.-  ■■  The^  joimg  ■  aiia  aail 

idl  d»  ^sad  hamm  fiapaNi  ihiMiiwil»aa»  aaiaolM  Ato 

(tml^m  ha-iaw,  ■roailarf  ^  ft^  jtaaa  l^  ha^-altiriMk 

iiiaiqppljp  of  anowa  n^  tiM^  hafWBb    €w  omtfUaa-^aaa 

H  liiiairi  ilihl  aar^ma  aJawai  dapaeilil' a^m 

'kaA^iftMlmitmf  waM--pamMfti^<liaaliMlt' 


>^ 


iiiiiiiiaiii''iaiiiiiM 


diBgaiiitiikliiijiiiiiigiiiyiiiiwaiitiia 


Mm 


WiMMMiy  to  Wpg #tow  «W niqulrfrtw.  WM»  4l» 
UAl*  UMik«t«lUBi«|«isi,tlM  nA  wu  mUttmA 
MlM  Mlaolim  fcr  MnNlf  •  «ow  with  wUoli  h»UiiypMi< 
tootlMtetotlwaMiMtoentaot^  AU  irera  te«»Ulluirtl«i, 
wowfiac  tilt  T»ll«3r— •  eloud  of  dart  WgM  to  tim  <(hi 
flrii«  ttf  fOM  and  llM  ikooliiif  of  utoira  Mtowwl  Ia  etow 
■umwtcm  11111  htn  and  tham  bdMo  ««•  wmi  fMiai- 
iMiad}  cad  tiM  w«aw,  wlw  feUowad  alaaa  te  iha  law. 
batan  tba  wwrk  of  iMiuiof  dw  valnaMa  MM|ttkiliMi^'«ai 
H^aaa  waaaaway  afaia  ki  imumM  afHw  tMiag  MM. 
flwaalB^a  abaHi  wiMa  tka/  oooia  ateaart  af  tte  boMa 
aad  M  Hw  diaiaaaa  tvT  taw  Md%  riMOt  aad  irliaal, ' 
Iha  aimiil  aalaial  to  torn  nprnHbiim.  Tha  1 
faawd  to  Madiwtand  Hw  way  to  vmU  daagw.  Aai 
toa  woondai  M»lo  flaa  afaH  Um  ahaaa  la 
aaali  to*a  aJKwu  wfciiMagaa 
yataklwth  Ma  umaida.  ^TOiy  attolaii  Vmmim»  Mr 

ImiMmt^ti  toaaaJwaraajpartl^tha  tallaaa  iiaiid  Aa 

bm<mtmn^0^'  kMP>«aU^th»i««ib«M«llMMi«pi(lM 


>«MlltaalianiteUMli'«r  iaiMi«i««»ii^«iiM''lt.li<«tr4M(l* 
liiliMlJIHii^iilii    ^TStofttai iR>alir'l 
iliM  li'tor  haid,'  <»r:«»ilgkl  iMii  - 
:«'«#B«aMl^iar'lMdli»:%aa«alMttai^4kia  I^' 
tMlaadaiyarfr  told  laaiM  to  toadWaK    I 
«lM  ftotel#«ii  %Mim4aitmmimftf 
■Mi'Tr.- j|N«i>«it«iHMi«"to4q(%i'iir  iNMHa 
'«iifeilala«i«4if<'ttafar  aMai-liymfWMia^ 


'Jfe- 


ii*!"-- 


mmmmmm 


"tmmmmmim 


iW 


ikUmM 


iih»liiifpmi 

1  M 

fM    AMU  jMlH 

M  tt  IMI  -NVt 


|^0Mi«|p4lM 


ItM  |pte%  •nd  i^M  dMM  fliwi  aliek*  J  »ad  thta  «  ModM^ 
•l»As»  i»|dM«i  hiirtli,  wkWi  yutlf  oiohMy  «aolv>  and 
4dwi  ll»  HulU  it  iam  wril  Awd  ftom  bmIsMm^  thM  it  om 
h»  pMJnwI.anil  thM  it  will  kaap  witiaoat  iajufjr  akiMMt  mqt 
iMtglhof tiBM.  Umn ws owd* piapumtiM fer tha nm^b- 
dMr«raqrjMuawf  «»  WsUa  Walla,  wliioli  wiU  panbaMy 
oaavpf  alMmt  tWMMy  days. 

JEtopiiMnlwr  llti».  To^j  HMiat  of  tha  Has  ^rate  aad 
ilatlMa^B  laft  w  ta  oootama  witiria  tba  nnga  of  NAM; 
thattbay  odgirtaaaaia^laifMr  tiiiia  of  prorialMa  baftpf 
mfaMHW  laMrisB.  JMnmvar.  aboot  ana  Imidi^  aad  Mv  ta  ait 
adtkawtowaida  Walla  Walla.  Bataatkajrlafta^Ia^ 
I' of  >dMit' Mgavi  Ja  «' VM^ 'VatoaUa 
^wki^  AMk.  a  aiaai 
n  w%nmt  adiit  a  kufi  ^oMMiQr  oH Aiad  iaMti>  ^1 
btMrJ 
iHaqr-^faaaC'to^ 
la thafint oUei; vWoh ba MgUy  valaad^  Aad  IgRvattw 
awaa  anitiaKpqNi^  laqaaatfagUattopmaatitladMaili^ 
idwuphi  aitaai  I  ImmI  aaaoaiafed  Uai  toa||»at  naat  yaain 

i^MMk-cClha  £hriaMa,4riMi^«a.'fi«t'^:  iadbaa  -  aa  offas 
taii^4»-d>f ^feairaaMit-amta'^tfMNwa^iJ^. . '^  ..  >.,<-.  4i^ 
a»lK».-gnaf>iaiid;<iar-j|oitw»y,  aa  tba  MOitdowaflMiiami 
jbaaah of 'fialBMB ijfart  ffha  valky  tlumgk  «|daliiliii 
liaaywBWiagMif rally  JfcatJlaf  aad  variaa  ften  ana  la  thuM 

■■mtum 


iiii 


mmmmmmmmm 


imm,  Inmtm^mmlXj umimtthMhMnmatimi  itktt 
Mtioo,  «r  tiikt,  wm«  •hoiit  as;  md  thw««iM  ■■«•  liHUi 
mwliuMnbmor  our  bimi  w«n  aaaUmf  Md  albmL  Oi 
tki  huks  of  tiM  iItw  (kMm  wUoli  w«  wwMtmTtUBf,  tlMn 
wM  •4ti|«»  fiWMlli  of  «rUkwo  MtMMttag,  bevwror,  oiiy  • 
1^  rods  into  tlMbaOom.lMMis.  Abowt  two  to  IkmtAiumam, 
wo  won  all  Tvy  nuoh  slomod  to  lOo  oar  ntii,  wlio  wore 
out  M  huBton  ood  gvanio  «p^  tkB  hUK  rawdng  thiir  homo 

MfbUapood,iB»a<>i>UqH«<luwti»^<nMPd*  w*  Twoof 
tl»pi>owbwpri>BlfioMofc.  Wo  faMW  that  thqr  kid 
dheovfuwl  flooMthtot  moio  Il«a  oidiMry,  b«t  wkot  ./^ 
«liild«ot  oeifjootpuro.  Boiqg  to  *  < 
tilt  of  WooliAMt  ladtoM  oA«i 


oiiJMI^oaid  to  tko  ohioiiio  dteaoo,] 
(ip^  ootlMirkoaoooaald  fpa.  Thir  iw»  ooftr  off 
ttHiW ooidd Jit dilwriM  1*» tfcijr woi^  At tho  tmm 
tiiM«MVtwofli|^  OBtiio  UHolMdtoi  Mid  aMido  j%Mto 
wMiAdidMlaBdontoBd.    b  additioBtoihH««oof 


.wt  4ir  oft  kit»M»jp  Md  «•  oUol^j  oiil  mt  Umikm 

^•.^WBBiBBw  ^^wB^'^WBiWo*'*~o^^^oii '"^^^m^^^-  w^^^^    ^^w^w  "  •^^^^^^^^p---!«^^^^^P'^^^^f 

li^  «idr  dooltood  •  Uikto  ip  tfi#  kC  Mi^faMi^  M^ 
lliMt  ifMn-  WNMO  to  Mf  4BtaAp»ingr  teo*  tlwokMi 

AiW.rtinji  i||piiliJtofNo.wo:twiit«i.<»f4ipiif.i  >.>JBMi« 
AjikiMidilM  dMc^hit  thqr  nMlM(l«iiitow«ii»«#f^W4 


MM 


mmmmmfm 


tiimmmmmmmt!'^ 


,Mt'  '•«*««■; 


ttt 


HofMBatllMr 
Id  shMtf.    Oa 

m 


bw.    Tmof 
thtft  they  kiKi 

I    but  VMk-e'^H^ 


i    At  Um  mmw 
talUilMMof 


«ti  A*««4UfeiikMirla  wte  pMt  «f  4»  wWotm  » 
iiMkMk»«llMk,^^  wwM  vrtlnfe  *r  our  AMiriM  to  eoM. 
■HMWlh*  i«%  «Mi  wm9  Miimlin  vvny  liMnit  to  iwvi 
ttdrhdtapwndfaiapMiH.    k  i*w  •  Momcot  of  «wlU 

<i|M,  !»«•  wkM  tiMf  «wM  dinoTwr,  ladtiMjr  Mea  raturi^ 
«d»ilhoiilteTioriMlMy«iaariM.  TlMt««olii«ft  119011 
tkthOHwko  WW*  aowjoiaadbjrtiMMwhonHbeilAMni 
tk»BMNialaiM,  and  svho  proved  to  b*  ioim  of  <Mi>;>im  aM, 
•ppiMtlMirwU|MtotlMirlionM,Mdfai  ftillap««loMM 
tow;  uid0ii«rtto»tlMfintohM;RMlettpto4MkMidwiit. 
i«i  IMMkMl  oat  Irfi  iMad  «Bd  Mid.  ••  MMfi;  cMifi;'' (bMftto> 
My»>)  TimiaiMMtlwbMlo;  udtiwiwtoiiido^oriito 
d^  «M  ipMt  te  kttya«  Md  diMiiqr  MMa^  i^lfak  «i« 
^  mw  |)l«uMH  titoa  flglMlkf  BlMkftot  lidiiBW  ttfe 
»•  dMinUo  iddWoB  to  tiMfr  gtook  irf^pmiliiw  Wo 
MpodtetUtplMO,  wMoh  np|diod  a  ploai^  of  |^ioi 
IMM  At  ow  iMM%  and  whoit  UtMa  ««•  no  want  «ir  iMi 

-' TIaiBlaiBiMiiatt  k  mjr  Itoad  atOl  ooMlaiiid  wiib^tbok> 
Mm»  VikiB,  aad  ftvoiwRiy  pniM  <tt«  imadMd  a 


i  Mt  titat  an  w«v  i%M,  aad  tliaf  1  Mali  m 

■raailvakfit^gaglagte  Ab  iaMoii,aiid%iMtef  labili 

0b<»«|»^al|3«pGMto  to  erwwi*  hH  k%lwi  ia  tte^^oUt 

«H  into  tho  hailiii  of  Ged»  M^ 

•,M«a^rlMdjrtol*latM  hy'ibmi 

ft-  ftlt.a»itoiiffc  fc'^wiriiitt'a^ 

ii^  ittt  Miani  and  malto  ai3r>i«|Ml^  Mi 

of  nitolQaariw  inhr  thb  Md,  «ldA  li 


'%. 


^%a;. 


. >"-.  'a 


'wiiti  iiii(iiyii>iiiM#'ii 


mmum 


mmmmmmmtiti»t(m0iitm 


vpmmkh 


lit 


eSOLOMOAIi 


kTATioys. 


(VMlftibrdMlMfVMliMiiag^  toOMtay  fintty  Md 

biitMy,«l»«ttl«nii»baidl»doM.  Tk«*  IndiMM  pm- 
■iVM*  te  thiiff  kki4MM»  and  M«  Ycry  n^MlAil.  Mi  iMdy 
#  otoy  M IMI M  I  ««n  impMt  iminioliaa  (  nd  tkqr  wy 
|h«t  what  I  t«U  thtm  b  diftrant  ftwii  aay  tyag  tiwy  !«▼• 
•VM  iMMd,  Mi«  tpJAiiftl,  •«!  tM  thty  wlA  to  h«»e 
SMt^  (AawioMi)  toMhon.  K  tba  AiMrioM  Oauekm 
will  Ml  MBd  lh«w  tMdton,  ofiniMklity  »«"•  >«*  »»•» 
Owp  fcr dlMMIwnt >o Ctoll't willwrity.    Amdwoaamr 

iMilhMIJIMM  MWiOM  tkMI  tiMM  to  b*  tMlght  tlM  wajT  of 

Mlpgttoii,  wlMM  tlwM  an  ■»  ibw  otMlMdw  to  the  InlNdiW- 
iM  of  th*  foaNf  H«f«  AM  ao  idola,  m  worifiaa%»» 
|9V«rof«a«ato<xHntel;  Boivaay«l»tkaAMlnMliwiBA»> 
IMP  whWi  «iiMi  apw  Uw  AwtiMW 


omM  Av«  kwM  iin»  tiM  rim*  aad  ilofVid  a  fc«  I 
f*«f«  dw  Maia  biMeliaf  aUaM  tliMv  wUak 
tkaaMUli,  aiA  kaa  to  aaoroa  la  tw  anall  late,  to  tl» 
MowUiaa  aaMfeaf  Bmut^i  fetk. 
,,F«r  jMNtodtManoa  oa  owr  ««y,  w  tito  IMh,  tha  ommi- 
toiaa  eoiBa  denra  BMT  tiM  river,  randailBg  tiw  Talkgi  te^ 

laldikMii^wUal^iaaMuqr  plMaa 
Into,    na^  lovwil 


1} 


M  iWa  *  mm 


»Im|{ 


fMirl7.«aitH«li|Mf 


PNfiWatwtodd 


lofabaiit 

'■"'^Wg  4PB^^"'aa' 


na 


mm\ 


t>fi'' 


H. 


mm 


H  ay  fintty  m4 
gr«ill*faqr«ws, 
CktM  IndkuM  |wf - 
fMlAil,  Mi4faad)r 
BB  {  and  tiMjr  «iy 
y  tUag  thqr  Imt* 
My  wish  tB  Iwve 
OMriOMI  oliiuwli«i 
y  wiMl  swk  ttpw 
^.  AmUmmvKf 
» tMight  the  imir  of 
Iw  l»  the  faiUadiM' 


whtduiiwHMm 
■att  WkMi  l>  the 

holMwtheoMMi. 
tiia  Talky  Jiwiigh 


«t>«'" 


lit 

^NMte.  No(t«ing  MMM  umhNiet  eppeenneee  neer  the  fcoi 
(^Ihe  mewitaiiM,  on  the  left,  I  rode  to  the  ptaoe,  end  fiiund 
•  daater  ot  voloenio  eniptfcim,  whksb,  though  enolent,  «p- 
peered  more  leeent  than  »ny  I  hed  previously  seen .  A  little 
wey  down  the  deeoent  into  one  «f.the  ereten,  I  (bund  %  pet- 
rifled  stump,  standing  in  ite  natural  podMob  ;  lis  raets  and 
the  grain  of  the  weed  entire.  I  thinit  it  waii  oedar,  and 
aboat  eighteen  inohes  fai  diameter.  This  stood  undeuhtedty, 
tt|Aa  what  was  the  natural  surftwe  of  the  earth,  and  tlNr 
ntmnti  lAave  and  around  was  thrown  up  by  toh»nio  flr«f 
'  WhHe  time  la  nmildering  the  lava  intft  duet,  the  whrf  ts 
seattsffing  it  wvt  the  eooatry  around,  to  rHMw  flw  sMI 
whMi  vaa  deiireyed  by  the  gtMt  oonflagratiM,  #hid)  oikde 
AMd  iMa  fHwia  nglan  of  tka  eettim  son.  TMapelfflM 
wHfwifi,  leaMi  n  xtm  poMimi,  firovee  tnai  tms  oouuiry,  wmmi 
it  MHT  ioiartUmi  of  wood,  was  onoe  suppUed  ir«Bl'«Of  erei 
mm%mm.  Fmiiv«rleMsoAltwioreYiAMki^1t1i|ilil^ 
tnHiMse  ipfMni'  rugwwe  ^'otwiBViBMPl^f  MMer  Mp]^in  wHn 
wood  thaa  at  praasoti  WMl  klso  diat  tfie  present  atipply  it 
niinrtghHy^MHaiAfa%.  "^' 

W*  pmii,  t»iliy,  a  plaee  wh«re  two  yean  ago  thlit/ 
MMi  RhnM  yooiig  OMB  were  buriecf,  #ho  ivere  killitf  C^ 
dioBlatAfcet  They  were  all  active  young  men,  gotog  out 
upm  aoraa  oxpedHtioti,  Uie  nature  of  whioh  I  oonid  not  learn. 
Vmf  had  goM  but  a  lilUe  iKstanoe  fttm  the  vniage,  wfiloh 
•neamped  herer,  iHien  passing  tfirough  a  very  narrow  dellla 
on  a  small  stream  of  water,  walled  up  on  both  rides  wfth 
perpendieolat  roeka,  tha  Blaokfiwt  Indians,  who  had  way- 
laid  them,  atHidted  them  ftwn  before  and  behind,  and  killed 
all  bat  one,  iHio  mounted  a  horse  boloaghig  to  die  Raok 
ibet,  and  nuiied  thRM^h  the  opposite  enemy.  Alter  ^ 
^iilaBf  had  rotbed  from  tiie  plaoe  ^  daa|^r, 


■MttawiaMwiiiisiwii      rtoiwMiiiii 


wWrtlMiillaMilWiniiii  I  i  « 


IM  aoMM « 

dM  Mm  P«m«*  bra^lH  mmmf  tiM  imi  MUm  mi  burM 
Umm  ia  dd«  ptaM.    AMOfdiof  to  iMr  no4t,  tlwjr  ImiM 
wtt  thMn  tlMlr  ckMlMa,  MMdMta,  m4  Wflyo  rabM,  to  gfftVM 
•bMt  time  IMdMp,  puttfa«  iv«  or  iia  bodk*  toto  •  gmw. 
Am*  tkM  Aibr  tlii%  Um  BtMkflMi  Iii4iMM  omm  and  <hiK 
tiM«  i^N  •ad  BMUb  plundar  oTUMlr  MmImIs  mhI  wlMtovw 
tiMf  dwuglil  wortk  toktog.    Th*  Nm  P«f«ii  •hnwvi 
OMM  tM«  way  aad  oollMldl  thalr  booM  aed  barM  diMi 
•gala.    TIm  giKfim  in  whloli  Hmy  war*  flnl  buriwl  wm« 
I  w«  faMMl,  and  fragnMBti  of  ganaanli  waia  lytaR 
ana  ny  tadtaaa  hatedt  and  oMNmiad  to  MlMoa 
«Mt  Iktfar  oMiidwfad  mmm  and  brallMra.    Tha  whola  mmm 
«a»aAaltoc,  aad^I  ooold  aoi  toit  long  fcr  U»ttoiatooaM» 
mkm  tlMy  atodl  aMle  (towa  to  a  ChiMan  onwiawnhy,—* 

pal  ikall  ba  «Hl  to  tha  BiaaMbat  laiHaa^  tbattitoy  mr, 
HaJUiaiiiapifilarpMeaflnaaMkaBdgaQdadllioivv       ^ 

jsBBV  0QHM  liHM  MMNK  Mk  sVHNMBIIOBS  WBB  VBMNKw-  «<Mw«tii' 

«a  M.  tta-ftnaa  aad  ■ipaiidid  dawn  Aa  livar,  iaa  < 


to  ft  mad 
I  VMld  ba  fcnofaUa  fet  ftir  1 
idwlMfa* 


Tallqr.    TMs 
,inMitaol«Blhiv 


•adMriMi 
•emimm  tmtilmitB 

I  iBDk  M  ohMTVMiMI  eTlBilM^  Mrf*wMl k  4«« 41'. 
s»^  lipliMtir  M*.    Hmk^  «  nil*  dmm  4lM  ihw^  ^ 
to  •  loMlicNi  •!  MlMMl  mk.    It  M«p«  o«l  «r  ite 

'illkM»,«BllM«MlllfMiOr«k»4rfvW.     Oi 

oTthft  teptf»«  Mto  of  njr  iMalti^  M«  lMHi«  Ml 

UMH^Mkl 

oCpMibighirkhMK 

Tlw«yiJa.| 
iag  Imp  «r  Hm  witor  af  ^rjnlftUntiM  1km  < 
Mb.    I  look  •  4|iiM%  to  xarlMikb  Bf  mmdji 

TlMkl  tlto  mlM  JMqr  l»«itoMif«  h  praktUt  Itmi 
tito  nfroniiitoiiM.  tlwif  ili>  gtriMJcitl  iiwBtUimi  muuwI  $m 
Jih*  dM«B  about  the  ntoM  to  Vi»iMid,«wlkMUMhJiteiiM 
viaiBi^  of  iIm  (pMt  fait  liOt^  whoM  vaton  •!•«»  (ilPD^lljr 
—mwitod,  Aatofyatob  fcwn  wfon  tlw  riioi». 

▲iknr  fOMrfng  Aura  (ho  livor  two  Immim  fai  a  MMb-inMt 
Uboetion,  wo  onteiod  into  tho  Moy«Hia%  loavji^  SokBHto-^ 
ISm  livor  Utomlljr  po«od  iato  tlM  aioqntokM ;  ht 


0 


mmmmkmmmlittli 


wtLm 


tiM  ofMiiat  to  tlM  ptrpmdlMlar  rook*,  two  •r  tkfw  hiw- 
dnd  feM  higlh  mkI  Uk«Mi«h  thMs  mounlaliM  mvw«1  Ukmi. 
mum!  fc«(  higb,  WM  wkl*  Miougk  ontj  for  Um  fivar  to  Hod  • 
pMM«».  It  Aowfld  iMo  tiM  dark  obMm.  Md  w«  «w  M  ao 
nor*.  Daring  Um  Uro  boun'  ride,  b«far»  w«  Mtored  tlM> 
mountaiM,  th*  atanmry  wm  grand.  WWU  thara  «aa  wemm 
leval  bolloi».laad  along  tha  rivar,  ia  avarjr  difaatkm  mow*- 
tahM  wan  riaing  abova  movrntaiai,  and  padu  t^itof  paaka, 
up  10  tha  lagkna  of  parpalual  mow.  Thaaa  Mouatafaii  ara 
not  an  mtteh  ia  ohaina,  aa  of  oaaioal  forma,  wHk  Iwaaa  to 
meal  InitaMM  mall  to  piaportlmi  lo  tMr  haiglR.  80 
niiMk  aabUmkjr  and  grandaar,  oombtoad  wkh  ao  maali  «•• 
rtotx>  to  nniy  ptaaantad  to  vtow.  Uortoanlnl  alfmta,  wM 
iaiaraliaagaa  of  wblta,  graan,  rad,  and  knrnn,  wan  atoittnr 
to  tfHoo  ■••■  yaaUfday  ;  and  to  ono  ^aoa,  for  mt&n  tea  a 
arila,  a  forttoal  frort  waa  prwili  i,  foeiag*a  aoaa^taaat,  of 
CM  Wndfad  and  ifty,  and  two  bondiad  foal  hi^  raateg 

opon  a  touw  of  ownlaraaimd  10^  unif""*  •f  >»»' 
•taMaoT  pttotMra  arigto,  aamaatod  wM)  mafiy  aloy  «rika 

wteaoolanalmadjrnMiittaMd.    IfcaofpaahaitdaofHia 

mm  to  aluddad  witli  dark  kMall. 

AlWr  toa^tag  ialmon  river  wa  travaraad  •  dnair,  Mr. 
mar,  aad  wto«i«  aonraa  for  arraral  honra,  nalil  an  flfM 
apMo  *pi«ad  oirt  bafora  oa.  Hara  I  bahald  wlM  appaaMd 
at  a  tfrtMoa  like  a  vlllago  of  ikiny  or  forigr  Itonaaa  wktok 
tha  Am  had  daaolatad,  toavtog  tha  daoayad,  hnlMi,  ami 
toMartog  Afatmajn  yal  atandtog.  On  a  nonvar  appNoah 
ttey  pravad  to  ba  maama  of  atoly  rook,  tan,  twwMy,  Md 
eron  forty  foal  to  height.  Tha  Arm  and  AmUo  toxtUM  of 
thdr  matartol  |H«aanrea  thmn  from  batog  emnbled  to  a 
Ipvel  with  the  earth  anmnd  them. 

Fiomthk  plaoa  wa  tamed  mora  waoMriy,  tid  p«Mi  a 


^p 


UAMtlD  MM. 


aiT 


d  •  drMrjr,  Mr- 

I  wiMt  ^ppMMNMl 


I  ervaibM  to  « 
Ijr,  Mid  fumi'm 


high  mowuio,  |wittQrwhk>h  M*  »«ry  •bw|s  mmJ  MMMn|Mtf 
In  •  v«ll«y  by  •  MnMun  o(erymt.l  wauir. 

Cte  Um  17th,  w*  purwMMl  OMr  journey  ovtr  Mgli  mmhi. 
fim,  whJoh,  in  aooM  pUim  wm«  iotarwotod  by  dMp  m. 
vkM,  vary  dUBouh  Id  h»  f^mti.  Ea<Mioi|MMl  oo  •  uaati 
pUin  in  •  f  rovfl  ol'  large  Norway  pioM. 

SiiptoaUrlfMh.  TtMvillagMorindiuunMlwakmpro. 
gNM  in  travaling,  and  being  deeirous  to  expedite  my  jour* 
■ejr  ta  kmm  of  the  poeta  of  the  Uudaoo  Ba^  Company.  J 
took  tan  lodlMia  and  went  forwaid.  leaving  the  laoaindr  • 
19  fcilow  at  their  leieure.  We  paicMi  over  a  roouataia  ^ 
thooeaad  C»et  h%h,  ooeupying  mora  than  half  a  d«/  M 
•wive  at  the  ewnmU.  Theae  mountaine  are  oovered  with 
wood*,  axaapliog  Mnall  portioae,  vhioh  are  open  and  Auvidi 
gra«  for  our  ftanea.  Tha  waode  an  oon^natd  OMua^  at 
fir,  ipruoa,  Norway  pine,  and  a  aawepaoiee  of  pine.  Vht 
leavee  of  thie  new  iipeoice  raiemhla  thoae  of  piioh  pino, 

SM»J«g  in  buMlwa  at  tha  ead^af  the  UnOim  but  am  ahortar 
aM  ■ni»II«r{  tha  bfttk  and  tka  body  of  the  traa  MeamMa 
thf  larohj  tlM  WMd  ia  Ann  and  MTf  alaitio.  t)n  exptpu 
nmm  whkh  I  ««de,  I  found  U  dUBQult  to  break  etiche  «p 
iaoh  la  diamlar.  On  aoaoiiai  of  thie  laet  and  pi»uUiir 
prRparty,  I  have  called  it  |ba  tlutie  pm.  It  growa  v^y 
tall  and jlipjift^  aod  wjth()|it  branchee  axoept  asar  tha  t^ 
ThMR  pipi«a  would  nadouhiadly  maka  eM«Uai4  miple  ^ 
ipaiaforab^piag.  AAar  paai^g  part  of  the  way  down  thip 
«iwiwtaia,  wt  ipopp^d  for  Ikm  iMfbt. 

JTa  AlMt  ai^ly  dA  tha  18lh,  and  oomroenoed  our  di^> 
laV9r>.^  by  diMpaww  want mim  than  twioc  the  dittaMo^ 
fliMB  «kM  Jra  wan  with  Ike  vttlaga.  ITa  wei«  im»oh  |p- 
jKywikrtaeaa  that  had  fiabiiaoroai  tha  trail.  Bi|Q|ui|M»( 
i9P^  Iha  jnuMpt  aida  «f  Mi%h  «9««|alt).  wNn  thp* 

4 


mmumi 


taiumm 


lit 


■trUKTNNIt. 


wm  •  larfii  opmiBg,  «  •prinf  of  wator,  awl  •  g«mi  aupfiy 
of  gtmm  fer  our  honHM. 

HmMmmA.  Mik.     W«  oomlnuw)  In  il»  mnrn  •no«mfniiM«. 
I  «xpnMWMl  my  wMi  m  lh«  ohlaf,  that  Iha  d«y  thnuM  b* 
■fMrt  f»l%kHHly,  mod  thai  Iva  ahould  fMNnnronkMito  M  Mi 
lOM,  M  wall  aa  h«  WM  aMa,  Iba  aoHptuni  tratha  ha  hU 
laaraad.     Tlila  waa  (IwlUlAilty  dona  on  hla  paH,  and  ha 
prayad  whh  tham  with  mnoh  apparaol  davoUon.     I  waa 
lirtaraatad  to  aaa  how  raadiljr  thay  wara  diapoaad  ¥t  okay' to 
llM  asiaal  of  tMr  knowla^ga,  and  f  waa  alfcolad  whh  (ha 
tho«igM  ^tM  m  few  wara  wilHng  to  coma  asd  teaeh  theae 
hanlglMad  rotada.     A(W  thajr  had  oloaad  thair  wonthtp,  I 
wng  •  h3mui  and  prajrad,  and  oonvaiaad  wMi  tham. 
^'  TIm  teflananation  In  my  hmi  oontlnulngt,  I  hiad  myaalf 
■aylaualy,  whMi  radtioad  my  polaa  fbr  awUla,  hot  bwmaaad 
my  wathnam,  ao  that  I  oouM  wvlk  only  a  few  rada  wMimM 
MMMk  MgtM. 

Somatimaa,  amidal  all  tha  avklMMaa  o#  CM^  maiay  t^ 
wk,  I  %mi  my  kawt  aiaklac  bi  iliiyaadatoy,  aai  «rw 
MklytaHy.lMlfwrMi  In  tfMM  wfld,eoM  motmlailH. 
It  aaamad,  that  aaok  waa  my  lorn  of  atfaiHph,  aad  I  wm  h». 
somi^  ao  amaoiaiad,  that  I  ooald  not  mdm*  tha  fctigtM  «r 
mvaUsf  alfkt  dny«  kogar  «*«t  tkaaa  movnmina,  wkMk 
Mkott  aa  avM«g*  •kMrt  aii  HMmaaad  ftal  higli;  Mias 
'dkay  iMf»  Bortk  and  aeoA,  widionly  vary  mmm  nXkym 
iM^aM.  aad  aa  o«ur  oouna  waa  aaly  a  Ifitla  imrtk  af  ««!, 
w  waw ooaatatly  aaaaa^ ud  ifiwaaihn |  aiklmiaMdl 
•ot  diaoontinoa  oar  jouHwy  fcr  tka  wmM  o^  piuiyMH. 
Tha  HMwgilt  that  I  moat  M  af  aoooaspttriiiMt  dm  al^  of 

my  miiilM,  aad  olaaa  my  JHb  iHihottt  a  ajiiyaikhl^i  <M>«d 
wMi  wheal  I  aouM  eoavwraaaadl  pray  {  aai  ha  kwriai  in 
lkm  aMmrj  mooBlaha,  AIM  ma  wM  a  ffiam  wlMH. 


id  •  goad  mipfly 

m  tkiy  thnuM  Im> 
iMironioato  M  Hi» 
m  tnitlM  h*  ImmI 
Kt«  |WH,  Md  It** 
UvotkMi.  I  VM 
ipoMd  mobay'lo 
tIfeoMMl  whli  th* 
ksd  teach  these 
tMr  wonklp,  I 
rMithMn. 
B^,  I  bM  Mfwlf 
lito,  hot  inoiMMd 


rcM'b 


,  eoM  motmiallHi. 
|th,  and  I  wM  b>. 

■OWllMIWi   WMM 

7  tanw  viAtjra 
ittolHrdiofvwi, 
tif  {MidiMaMri^ 

of 


wgrf  ha  biifMia 

IgteMvMelr' 


WMP 


4  oTttiMfTT. 


tit 


kntir  waa  »mnf .  My  jwlipnMt  wan  oUar,  but  I  omild 
not  malMi  it  influanoa  Iha  filings  of  my  haart.  At  nifhl  I 
■oraatiiMM  tlMNight  a  pillow  daalrabla,  u|«on  which  to  lay  my 
aahing,  ihrobbinff  haad,  hat  my  |innm«ntt>au  waa  my  only 
Mibatituta,  and  I  mtad  ^^uiatly  upon  tha  ground,  and  nvary 
morning  araaa  raftaahed  by  aktfh 

Monday,  Slltt.  At  an  aarly  hour  wa  raaumad  our  jour. 
■ajr,  and  our  horaaa  baing  raaruitaii  with  lh«  reat  and  good 
Ihr*  ihay  had  ycatarday,  tnmit  a  long  day'*  ioumay.  I 
had  nottoad  tha  mountain  ovar  whiah  wa  paand  to-day, 
whieh  kt  mhtmt  neren  thousand  teat  high,  two  days  bafeia 
ira  arriVad  at  tha  top ;  and  quariad  in  my  mind  whatbrf 
ClMrHa,  my  gttida,  would  not  dapart  in  thia  imtanea  from 
tlM  aumwun  cualam  of  tha  Indiana,  whkih  ia  to  paaa  over 
Ihahighmt  parte  of  mouiMaina,  and  to  daaoand  hrto  tha  law. 
•■I  vslkjra.  Bol  wa  paaawi  tha  highaat  point,  aic«p«inf 
whWi  ia  oaariy  parpandioular,  and  rima  Uka 
aMila  or  pyfwidd.  It  to  oompeiad  of  haaah  { 
tmi  wmuti  it  voiaaaio  rook»  Ua  (MaMarwl  in  grant  poAi. 
At  tha  hiaa  than  ara  alao  aaoavaiiflna,  araami  and 
whiah  thaia  ia  a  larga  quantity  of  lava.  That*  la  a 
nin,  nam.  of  wMoh  ia  in  ila  natural  alata. 
Tha  way  kf  whMi  I  oalenlaldl  tha  haight  ef  thaaa 
taiM !»,  thM  aanta  af  tham  aia  tippad  with  parpatnal 
aadaaatghidmiMMl  fc««,iB  Irtkwda  48*,  iaiha  lagfan  of 
patpalMl  awv,  tkata  oao  ha  no  doubt,  aa  thtaa  do  not 
vwrjr  iiwiljr  Amn  aaob  fl«her,  that  thajr  avafaga  ib 


I  wta  nntah  iaftaftaalad 


glaaa*    It  vaa  waMNHrnUi 


wiOi  a  oorioaliy  a|poa  thia 
grasMa  roeka,  aaah  waighfaig 
^  attar,  Uka  tha  parto  of  aa 

,  how  aiealy  tha  upparmoat 


■«MMaMaiiMMMMiiiMiM 


ii— -       i^tunmm 


miviiwpi 


mm 


wmw'^m 


«pn" 


PWBWWIPW 


mmm. 


IM 


iHDUJi  ■wruornr. 


WM  btlMoed  upon  Um  oUmt.    It  wduM  cotm  UmI  •  fMiff 
of  wind  would  blow  h  off  it«  oentra.    Ciwrlie,  tls*  ohi«C 
«Ming  me  one  day  evMnining  mkienJ%  wilb  ft  nMgnifying 
g UuM,  wid,  "  theee  white  men  know  eve^  thiqg.    tXVjr 
Jinow  what  rooka  are  made  of,  they  know  how  to  mftheinM\, 
and  how  to  make  watohei,  and  how  to  make  the  needle  «1- 
waya  point  to  the  north.''    They  had  seen  a  compasa  be- 
!£>!«,  and  whec  I  showed  them  mine,  they  aakl,  "  that  would 
ikeep  me  from  getting  loet. '    A  waterfall  waa  seen  de- 
wending  down  a  high  point  of  thia  mountain,  whk)h,  by  Jta 
oontinuiU  ibaming,  looked  like  a  white  belt  girding  itaaide. 
We  l0ft  our  encampment,  on  the  SSd,  at  an  early  hour 
«ud  oontiaued  our  mountaiaoua  jonriMy .    Parte  of  the  way 
the  aaoent  and  deaoent  waa  at  an  angle  t^  4&***  and  in 
■aaweplaow aven more  ateep;  aoroetiniaa on  the  veife  of 
dincy  piveoi^boee  j  eonetiipea  down  shal«eaof  ntohi  vbftee 
^ny  Indian  Iwrae  would  jump  from  one  to  anatbeiii^nd  in 
aOmt  plaeea  would  brace  hlmaelf  upon  all  firaw  and  aUde 
.d»wa.    I  had  beoorae  »o  weak  that  I  nonld  nol  ««lk  .fip 
feet,  but  waa  obliged  to  keep  upon  bia  iwok.    Fiequei^ 
between  ithe  mountainB  there  would  be  only  q^aoe  eaau|^ 
for*  niahing  Rtream  of  die  purest  water  to  find  ite,  way ; 
the  bank  O"  o»e  ^^  of  whioh  would  lerminate  the  deaoent 
of  one  mountain,  «Bd  the  otbev  bank  omninenoe  the  aaoent 
ofanotber.    The  quaation  «ften  aioee  u  my  m^  qifn  thia 
aectkm  of  country  ever  he  inhaWted,  unleaa  tbflpe  mwiutoJi^ 
ahall  be  brought  lo«r«  and  theee  valleys  ahftU  ^  ^loultiid? 
But  they  may  be  designed  to  perpetuate  a  supply  QC«|pod 
for  the  widea|>iead  prairies ;  and  they  may  contain  jninea 
oftwasttna^  which, -when  wrought,  will  netpd  theaa  N""^ 
Cnr  fuel,  wd  these  ntahingstieanM  for  ti^lrterp^^     ISfifM 
amy  ha  ^onatruoaed  miming  nortih^ndi  JXiMAy  ao  diat  tnA>- 


^^i^iiiij^aiaiiiHiitltsmti&KiitiiHi'i'  I  iii'iMiWinii 


M»JM>ilil'il 


•o«n  that  •  iMiff 
b»rUe,  tlw  ohi«( 
ith  ft  nMgaifyuM; 
y  Vnh^.  T1m» 
ow  to  mdMinq, 
lie  Uw  newJUe  «Ji- 
n  a  coinp«abe- 
aid,  "  that  would 
ill  waa  MM  d«- 
kiq,  whioh,  byJti 
t  finliog  its  side- 
t  an  aarly  hour 
PartooftlMway 
of  4&S  an4  4ii 
on  tha  vaive  of 
■  of  ntoktvlMiie 
>  anotlMi^4knd  in 
,  firant  and  alide 

l|d  not  «^k  .<i» 
ok.  Frequa^ 
ily  spaoe  enough 
to  find  its  iray; 
inate  tl^  deaoent 
nenoe  tiia  Moent 

B  tbipB  moMnttdiv 
hall  ^  fzattddt 
I  aopply  oCwfMd 
ly  contain  jnines 

»r,{Oir^r.,  8Mid« 


HOVHTAm  tABI. 


Xtl 


pOTtadooa  may  be  made  aooth  to  the  Salmon  river,  and  north 
to  the  OMa-oooto-ke.* 

After  a  ftitigoing  day'e  maroh,  we  enoamped  in  a  low 
■tony  plaee  whera  thera  was  but  littie  grass,  fer  the  want  of 
which  some  of  our  horses  strajred  away.  Our  men  killed  a 
deer,  whioh  waa  a  very  agreeable  exchange  for  dried  buffiilo. 

The  mountains,  over  whioh  we  made  our  way  on  the  SSd, 
weM  of  primitive  formation,  with  'ihe  exception  of  some  parts 
which  were  volcanic.  Granite  and  mica  slato  predomina- 
ted. In  one  plaoe  diere  were  immtnse  quantities  <^  granite, 
oovwrfaig  mors  than-a  hundred  aores,  in  a  broken  siMe,  aa 
though  praparsd  for  making  walls,  mootly  fai  onUe  forms. 
In  soaae  placea,tfieohangeflfom  granite,  in  its  natorri  state, 
to  awygJak>M>  waa  so  gradual,  that  it  wouM  be  diflohh  to 
siy  whera  the  one  eadad  and  the  other  began ;  Ifte  te 
chalbga  flmn  day  to  n^ht.  While  riding  akng  vjfon  a  nar^ 
row  rk^  of  tfda  mountain,  I  saw  two  small  lakes  a  litlia 
down  the  sUes;  one  on  Ae  ri»rtit  hand,  whksh  appeared  to 
b«  vary  bi^k,  and  tka  other  upon  the  laft  waa  very  yisHdw 
wMi  aolpbnr,  isimlng  fltm  a  ^ring  fai  the  monnlaia  sMe. 
lltose  tw^  lakes  were  direeily  oppndto  «a^  other,  and  not 
fw  distant.  I  should  have  enonined  tMm  mora  Minutely, 
had  my  «lr»ngth  psmHttadma  togodown  to  theni,«ad^again 
asoend  to  iriiere Imust  have  left  my  horse;  There  waa 
alsOmnoh  in  tte  soanery  arouikl  to  admire ;  mountain  risbig 
above  mounH^,  and  pveoi|^oe  above  preoipioe. 

We  spent  tiw  night  hi  a  valley,  where  there  waa  a  «natt 
meadow;  <w«ll  so|ftod.witfi  graas.     Hie  woods  around 


■v^'-  ■.-<■ 


•fbi  MiM  eruite  river  ia  the  jmmua  oTasHt  uid  I«Wk.  tad  lb 
■M  etiwr  wfttiap  l^kmn-mm,  h  wriltsa  C»M.eQos  km.   TWi«igak 
Sm  the  watn  wslar.    Bat  Com.oooI«Jw  aicBiiM  Um  Iktle  walab. 
Ce«i^wst#r«wl%Httl»{k*,dM.   mwUMTrivw.  , 


■f 

4 


«MikgMii»iim«tii> 


■HflMpWP 


whioh  h»n  were  Twy  l»ll  wid  *»lgli*,-«t>  *««•*»•»  •WT 

crtad  fcy  *•  «wl  «lw», -n*  l»3r  «1»  fc«AW  WII1.WI  «i  *• 
gU«Ma.    Tli»  ladtoat^MOBf ht  in  •  wpl^ftrtae  wW«k  tkmf 


■«liiMi»goodpN«i««itliN«8litliB4^r.    Ahouttte 

widMHllMM>lM  Ami  li^it  obitnioled  t(f  mmmMMMi  mm  ■ 
to  1»^  •  piBiytrt  BfMiiMe  lH>th«^Hi>  wmM. 

IT,  miilliiri    »ir    -".'—**  «•  MM*  brio «^fillqr 4f 


tti»jiii-iii.'wi<tK-  -A 


\gf,  will  a^  i»  ,<»  ^iiWM  w,  ^i«>^  Mmuy  <«»  ■  «r^f» 

Wgl!  imHiBlrf^  d«*ly  oofww*  wiA  wi«*fc  AwoBg  Aff 
krgoil  tiMs  is  •  mm  ip«^  of  fti^  Ai#»  htW,  Ito  l-»fc 
iUok«na  roMkHii  il»*^  «*  |i*«l«ir*«ita  %d«»  « 


kf  Him  1lfKt0t0ttB^ 

tlii»4^r.    Moutth* 
m«twf»bnMk^ 


tkHMgil  Wllioll.  i  lM«fHnd 


.Cow  wnnti^  <*Mi 


tte  aagpiiy  Mdi  •MiiiMM •  Mv ipMiM  of  bM  akoM M 
lM|*MtiwaMmptettooolortiaifenit7aiiiill  M(i,«M. 
«teli«nmbliB|[ahoooiiU^    TlMnMiMler  stasd  at  M*. 

Ob  tka  MA,  w»^ooMd«d  but  about  fear  houn  «o  our 
w«]r»«ad  «MMip«4  M  th»«idU  of  a  iMoataiR  BMr  to  nm. 
■ait ;  fk»  diMUMM  ta  awMlMr  mOttkU  ^ace  fer  oar  hsnea 
owMrHabbB<h>  bdng  too giaat.  Saw  ttnlay  a  iMW^apaeba* 
of  anfaaal,  aaoJi  aa  I  aa«ar  aaw  bafeva.  It  was  abaat  W 
lufafaaa  aMMlBt  and  piabaUf  of  that  gaMa.  ita  aalsr 
«<M«  bfiglit  oMafB  nii  laaaMbUat  •  M^^  <»^  •f^iM  t  H* 
teappaaiadtobaiMf  kirhmAffmwudmi^lmgn  •>* 
n]NM,bladh,  pwmiwt,  aai  vafyt  ptamiafi 
of  nqr  liriiaia^  and  wiMi  it  aair  m^  it  t 
fiMi d^a tiaa» Nwpaiiaitiwvajr «|^  km mmmi  aftdd 
ta  aaoend  kiglMt.  Attwopta  imm  mada  taiaMiribii,  hm. 
▲n  Ia4iib  hit  it  «ilitaB«na«»  hM  m 
iilaaBaadMW'aad'aaoaiwi.  J-aaw^ilMaa! 
» »  waa  «aria^  of  atriped  a^aimi^  origr  aba«t  iMlf 
■^^^^■wa"tiBaaa  maNaj  aairattMMP 
'  wiwaibllin  'tka  n4ua,«|M«i^'  hti^i^: 
oai«>   It  itaiaai^  Wanfc,  wmfftk^  i 

mt>Mmmti^^'*Mi$imflmmuL     It  ia  HMsfc  MNOIar 
Mf  aoaMwbat  l^fhtar  aafenwi  Md\, 
U  HM  aiagirteiia  lifca  «a  ninawwa  ^aail.    it 

■mm    |#. MM^fMM^^^^^  wllk 

ml  wlMtt  aattiiad  wMi  ( 


bat 


oaiNf 


aaf 


Mi 


fiiiiHiiiPiraw|aMK«i«iNPf^^ 


i 


8abbMli,9Viii.    W«  «MitiBtMd  in  oar  MWMBpmMt.  •  My 

bMddi  «M  BO  btttw -wrart  praAiwfy  ImI  ai^  and  y«t 

tlw  tniaiiiaMitinii  wm  idc wiiig .  ■  took  flram  my  arm  a  pi>t 
of  blood,  wMok,  while  H  weakcaod,  ((««•  no  raUof. 

Wo  had  mHfioiu  MvioMi  both  in  the  momiiig  aad  a*»r- 
aeon  of  this  day,  a«  laat  Sabbath.  Chariio  pray*  etwry 
■MMmiag  and  evening  with  hie  men,  and  aeka  a  bieaeing 
whan  they  eat.  In  the  afteraooo,  he,  «Hth  Oompo,  ny  in. 
tavpiretar,  came  and  Mtt  by  me,  and  raid,  *•  wo  am  new  near 
ouir  oooatry,  «id  when  we  oomo  into  it,  I  with  you  lo  look: 
over  it  «nd.,aoo  if  &  ia  good  for  mtadhwarioa  l»  li?o  in.  I 
Imow  h«t  Uttlo  about  God-my  people  kaofw  hat  Uttle— 1 
wWi  nyiiMplo  40  know  moM-«boat  Ood."  He  Mid  ho 
wfaliadH  ^alh  with  mo  maek  moM,  and  waa  aony  I  Jnd 
Mi  a- hoMoir  ^HaUied  tnteipfaier. 

lloBdqr»Mlhi  my  imalth  wao  frnpnovad*  asd  na  nadaa 
kt^  ^Kfummnh  and  «nwi|ged  ftom  the  woMntatwa  abotst 
tiNio'aledkiBdiaaftamooB.  Not  iadUag  walat  ao  wvok* 
,«•  wem  obUgad  lo  travel  oa  wMttBaatalghtitrh— 
» to  aaothw  bmaoh  ofdM  Ooo»«oota4t«k  at  iHddb  we 
laivttmllodgaaorNoBi'lMMAIadiaaa.  AMkrtaWaa 
im^  and  tiMn  wa  weve  w^eoroed  widi  a  oafttnoniaM,  but 
hawlyahahkigorbaiida^  ^hayftaatodna  wttfa«welliM 
Mad adMM,  for  wbioh I  mado^tWem aome amall fiiiiBii 
r-waa  wjatoad  «»  fold  myaelf  aafoly  thioagh  tiia«aimMi 


for  BMMo  dtfktait  to  pam  than  Aa  E?dqr  MottataiBBraapi 
doMaattako  advantage  of  any  valloy^lMt  oat  1%  wUah 
iMlounayad  oaly  two^hirds  of  a  dfty.  EMeptiofla^ko 
ttdd^oTtiia  dayisA*  atoMapheiv  waaoeld^aad  firm— dif 

foo ' wao'  fonaau;  -«:' .<«<'<<«  the  afghl. '  ^hm»-»1Ur»4mm* 
hadaeaMNr,  whioh  oAen  folb  apeb^  &>po  of  dpori 


iiitaaa 


'iiiM»ifiiiiiiiiiHii>iiiii»iw 


wa 


iHaMMi 


I 


My 

Ml  B^il,aiidy«t 
oni  my  turn  a  pint 
RM  roltef. 
momiBg  aad  aAtr* 
wrii*  pc»y«  avwrf 
d  Mks  »  bUaing 
ithOompo,  mjr  iiw 

't  W*  •!•  MNrBMtf 

[  wiih  you  10  look 
uriMtoUvoitt.  I 
nMw  km  IHrte  I 
s«."  HoMiilte 
d  WM  Mmrl 


4^aB4T^B>MMto« 

I  mo MBteiM  ttbftut 
If  walot  M  v««r* 

M.    AaUMtnTM 

IMlimODiOMi  iwit 

at  wMniaoMtat 
iMfnioH 


mmm 


mm 


''SinMptiai^:#» 


lUMtum  wna  ehbuni. 

taiaomyoMrlykitiioMitiMM;  •erkMlwoMy( 
uaploMut  woMlioff  i»  our  ymmrngt.  Fn^tM^ty  koavy 
g»lw  of  winda  iweep  through  th«M  mouotoin^  aad  pnou 
tmto  pMto  of  the  fccMl;  but  we  h^l  none  to  enfteager  lu. 
Oi  the  aoih,  we  pvooeeded  down  thk  bimiidi  aera  ihaa 
half  the  day,  end  frond  the  eeil  black  uid  good,  well  eev. 
•fed  with  gnua,  bat  dried  into  hay  by  the  ettaMner  droatfi. 
Here,  ae  on  nKwt  prairiea,  there  k  mitoh  want  of  wood, 
thaae  being  bat  little  beeidee  what  iefeaad  akng  theetnanM 
of  water.  Thia  ooonUry  oonthiuee  «e  be  vcrfoaaio,  ae  ii 
aviaoed  by  the  abuadaaoe  of  lava  aad  baealu  .  Ckuae  at 
aoM  to  eix  ledgae  of  ladiaaa,  who  welaomed  ua  with  Hm 
eame  friendly  expraMiaaa,  as  tboae  did  wheia  we  aaeaai^ 
laK  alight.  We  left  the  braaeh  of-lhe  Cooe.oool»te  airi 
aaoMded  weilarly  to  the  upper  pniriee,  wUoh  aia  ao  ftftUe 
aaAekwar.aaddoBOlsaibramrawiththadfaaik.  After 
a  loag  and  fatiguing  ride  over  theee  piaiiiea,  w»  daneaiad 
iaio  a  deep  gulf;  alaMol  eaeloaed  with  petpeadlaalar  tialle 
oTbaialtf  ia  the  boMoia of  whioh,  wa  foaad  a  lai«»ipi4^ 
of  walMV  wbaae  wa  eaoaa^. 

▲voaa  very  eaify  oa  the  «Olh,  set  fbrwavd,  aad  aMMlagood 
prqgNsa,  ooaaideriag  the  exhaasisd  olala  ef  aw  iMNsa. 
Masl  «f  the  atiMma  wove  dried  «p^  aad  oaeb  wUak  is  gao- 
eta^-,  la»ga»  and  iriMBBs  wa  faitended  H  hava  sarritad  test 
night,  was  whdliy  <lsatitati  af  water  aad  glass.  Aaciail 
tag-out  of  Ihp  gttU;  we  Aittnd  lawMd  tibe  saaaA  af  the 
high  pmiri%  a  good  spriag  of  water,  wkh  sutiuhaaj  af 
gtas^  whara  wa  rsfiashid  aaiaehrea at  nana.  Thahonss^ 
osanaiy  «»  mf  aifastatoas,  yafewad  the  dried  giMati 
thagiasa,  la  the  aftewwbB,  wa  wsb<  thwwgh  a  isorisM^ 
eeaBlifweUaappUa«withwoodiboUeflyaHdea|iar9«iMr 

^r  vrima  aNMh  af  iha  ssii  aaasaMNi 
IS 


f^ 


1 


mfmmimmtHl 


to  Twy  good.  Towuda  ni^  w»  «um  to  a  atNMa  of 
wttltr  nianiBg  WMt  wImn  w«  «BOMnpad.  ThtniioiiNtor 
M"  at  noon. 

Thunday,  Ootobar  lit.  Aroae  early  with  wibdaiitiaUir 
hatter  health,  for  whioh  I  cannot  ba  too  thankful.  Aftar 
travaling  a  few  nilaa,  wa  came  to  Mveral  lodges  of  Nai 
Parote,  who  gare  us  their  kind  welcome,  and  aekmed,  aa 
at  the  other  lodges,  much  pleased  to  see  their  first  ohiaf. 
TiMjr  manifested  the  same  feeliage  on  learning  who  I  was, 
and  the  object  of  my  coming  into  their  country,  as  their 
OMintrymen  did  whom  we  met  at  the  rendesvous.  With 
tkoaa  Indiana,  I  left  two  of  my  horsee,  whioh  were  too  muok 
oBhauaiad  with  the  fatiguea  of  our  long  jonmay  to  prooaad 
mf  flurtlMr.  I  had  fears  that  they  would  not  endure  the 
daprivatkiao  of  the  oomiog  wiMar,  without  any  aheltar  flrom 
tlw  oold  and  stonns,  and  with  nothii^  to  eat  axoept  what 
llMjr  ooald  find  open  the  pimiriao. 

Wa  anhrad,  two  o'doek  in  the  aftawoca,  at  the  Lawia 
fcniaoh  of  Iha  Columbia  rirar,  near  tha  oonfiaoaoaof  dM 
Oooa400t8-ka.  Though  this  io  a  laifaiivar,y«t  on  aaoamt 
af  tfia  awnniar's  dioiith  thava  ia  leaa  walar  flowing  down 
ill  dnuUMl  than  Iikatioipalad. 

▲  aqnalld  kwUng  Indian  took  ua  ovar  dw  fenry  In  a  an- 
•■fk  aMeb  appoavod  aa  waadm^^beaiaa  aa  himaal^  and  f- 
iMad  ma  of  fcUad  Oharan  and  hh  oamlaan  boat. 

Tha  oooBtry  diflbia  ntaeli  fiom  what  I  had  wtpaclad ; 
ftff  whtta  tha  aoil  ia  ganarally  goad,  and  AiraialMa  aaapfily 
ftr  fMiiagi  yet  ao  gloat  ia  tha  destitetka  of  atmnaar  iaka% 

Tha  oiopa  sawn  in  tha  fell  of  tha  year,  or  vary  aariy 
hi  tha  qwiiv,  irould  piobaUy  be  no  feradvaaoad  hatoo  iha 
aaiwdty  af  tha  dwiiA,  that  thay  weaMdo  waU>-  IafiA.wal 


iUta 


liBiiilrttttiiiiiiiiMMMiiiiiaiiifiii 


ill lilH  IIW»[lllUli>i|- 


•  to  •  iUMMI  of 

1.    ThwmonMtor 

rith  ■ubrtantially 
thankrul.  After 
kl  lodgM  of  N«i 
B,  and  Mknied,  m 
their  first  chief, 
ming  who  I  wu, 
country,  m  their 
odesvoiu.  With 
ih  were  too  oMioh 
mmey  to  praoeed 
Id  not  endure  the 
;  nny  eheher  flrom 
eat  oxoept  what 

»r,70tonaec«iin( 

tier  flowing  down 

dw  Ibnry  in  a  o*> 
I  hinwelf^aadiO' 


eepeeially  Indian 
Bar,  «Mr  vary  oariy 
vaooed  hefbie  ihe 
well^-  In  fHural 


there  it  a  great  wnat  of  wood  (br  building,  ibnoiag  and 
fWel  ;  but  at  the  confluence  of  thea«  river*  a  aupply  may 
be  brought  down  the  Coo»-ooots-ke.  Thia  place  combiMi 
many  advantages  ibr  a  missionary  Mstioo. 

I  began  to  doubt  the  oorrectnen  of  the  statements  of  some 
travelers,  in  regard  to  the  great  numbers  of  wild  horses,  and 
the  immense  multitudes  of  wolvee,  which  they  say  they  saw 
this  side  the  Roclty  Mountains ;  ibr  as  yet  I  had  eeen  no 
wiM  horses,  and  only  a  very  few  wolves.  We  passed  the 
night  upon  the  west  bank  of  Lewis  river,  or  ae  it  is  mora 
commonly  called,  the  Snake  river. 

On  the  9d,  we  aroee  early,  but  wera  detained  some  tiaMi 
beflwe  alt  our  honee  oovM  be  ibund.  We  started  abovt 
eight,  and  prooeeded  three  heun  down  the  river  to  a  ptaot 
whera  it  tahee  a  notdwrly  bend,  through  a  eeotien  of  moan* 
mine  wMeh  ate  difloult  to  be  pawed.  Our  diraot  oovhm  to 
Walla  Walla  being  west  norlh-weet,  we  hora  loft  tlto  rhnt 
and  Mlowed  a »  «11  atioam  up  a  valley  nea^y  to  He  MWnw. 
The  eeotton  of  o>,untry  throi^  wliieh  we  journeyed  lo4ay 
wwnMuNalMiUK  Ono  part  of  dwriiwraloBf  uidokvo 
traviM  waa  walled  up  with  v<rieanio  roeka:  The  towwt 
port  waa  «lr|^{daleid,  about  thirty  ftet  high  and  V^ mtti. 
lar,  tonaiatlinf  In  a  nanow  hofteontal  plidB.  Ahofo  tMo 
to  eupirimpwad  ocdtimnar  huMOfi  dto  ookmuto  Of  «Mili 
aio  <agito  pontagona,  varying  from  two  to  ibur  fttot  fci  di. 
nmitor,  iWng  Ibrty  fMt  h^,  perpendleular  oMoptii^  In 
CM  plaoOk'whaM  they  wera  a  little  fanlined.  Above  thb 
•Mtsatfon  of  oolumne  tkera  wa»  a  stratum  of  foloanio  MBM 
a»d  disintsyfatad  bnaoH,  of  some  eia  or  ei^  itet  thlntaiitob 
lyteginaooBAtoedstaia^  Then  upon  this  aaothor  bnUm 
«f  haMit  and  amygdaloid  of  flfty  itet  depth,  and  ao  on  to 
tiw  h^ht  of  tluoo  hundred  fcet,  neariy  perpendioultr. 


iiiiK 


liittifii  ijiwiii 


ii|iMmi»piiw— w— npi  I  »  w'liinrii 


"'"'  "-l-JMJBg 


-l».JJMIIIIIl4 


At 


•M  M  ngvlfifljr 


Md  !«▼•  nMoh 
jtlMCUuiraokM». 
«i^  !•  IraUad.  FramtlMbMtoiiMrvalioMlooaldaiak*. 
f  wu  lad  ft)  ooaolMdttlMUdMdtfbfMit  MotioM  WM«  raiMd, 
ti4  dMbvMt  pwriodt  oftinM,  bjr  wkbljr  wtMMbd  miblMtMMii 
itvi.  Tb«  bMAlt  is  thia  pluM,  aad  aUo  ia  klnMwt  all  odMr 
plMM^  wUeh  I  Imt*  jr«l  mm,  teof  vary  dark  color,  ooat»to. 
i«g  Mifits,  or  blMk  oBjrd  of  Iron ;  Mid  te  what  Clark*  aMl 
Lawlib  aad  thoaa  wko  har*  oopiad  fitMtiihan,  hav*  oallad 
klaakrooka. 

Saloniajr,  ad.  Wa  took  aw  aariy  dapartaia  frow  ogr  aa. 
>  aad  had  thimigk  the  day,  aa  lUMoauiiaaly  Ugb 
I  Iha  ««at,  k«l  a  plaawM  aM  and  aaiaBa  atwia. 
W*  ka^xa  kad  aa  rate  liMa  tka  ISlk  af  Jnly,  wkUa 
«  Ika  aaat  aida  af  iha  MMaiat^  aad  aol  aMia  thaa  l«a 
«iM4r  ^¥^  Ab  vMw  Ikfa  aUa  tka  Boaky  Moantataa 
la.taadlaati  aad  a»  nuatty  aaa  faaraaa  a  aHa»ta  oMia 

jafaraBiaMwkatk% 
Wmi  .aaaifad  ^iMi  (ran^  wa  aaaaofpad  Af '  tfto 
•iik^Mi  *r  Ika  Sakhilkt  fa  a  fama  Tak  apaa  aa  appar 
I  if  tiba  WaUa  WaUa  trivar.    Baw  ira  *«d  Araa 

tcaakaatftrdaar.Md 


iaiMliaadi 


Ika  OMB, 

Wkat 


,«aikia 

Tka 

of  iHaaihkii  waia  JBliHkii^ii,  aad  t^ 

•  a  ikara  of  aaak  iMd  aa  Ikay  tkaawalfit  iMd. 

Ostdlk.    WahadpaUiav«MUp»'atwUakal! 

wmaa  aad^oUkbaa  af  Araa  k)%aa  aiiaaiad. 

waa  of  a  traiy  aplritaal  aataia  la  oat  ww»^> 


liMiaiiittiariMMMiiai 


TAUJn 


WALLA  WALLA. 


IM 


;mi4  Imt*  omoIi 
dMateaTsoMM- 
kNM  I  oottld  wmAm, 
ytkmwwnJmd, 
mM  niblMmuMAn 
la  almoat  all  othtr 
urk  color,  ooataia- 
what  Clark*  awl 
tham,  have  oalM 

fsn  flnMBow  as- 
■MonuiMaly  Ugh 
■4  niMMalwia. 
tthafJvljr.wUla 
Mt  Mna  thaa  iv« 
Roaky  MovnlriM 
I  a  aUnata  aww 
a  aMMwhai  kffljr 
-nrmpiil  ftr'Hi 


Ifc  TMi  NoiiB 
hri  pminHlM  III 
ir*ai*rlhah. 

■naalilaa     Hw 

rtifMlft  iai. 
rfy^atwfcMal! 
Miaa  aminjurl 
•  i»  o«r  wairyM^ 


waa  InowB  to  tha  Baawlur  of  keaita»  bat  tlMra  waa  ika  ap> 
paaiaaoa  of  davotioa,  aad  good  attanUoa  waa  paid  to  what 
waa  aaid.  It  is  aflaoting  lu  •*•  tha  aoxiaty  thaaa  ladiaM 
naaifeat  to  know  what  ihay  miut  do  to  pUaae  God,  and  Iw 
obtain  Mlvation. 

I  amployad  part  of  tha  day  in  raading  Viooenl's  Bxpk^ 
naUon  ot  tha  catoohiwn.  This  ia  an  axcallant  oonpandiuai 
of  divinity,  and  ia  too  muoh  peglaoted  in  fiMuiliaa  and  Sab> 
bath  Sohoola. 

Early,  on  tho  5th,  w«  puraued  our  journey  down  thr 
Walla  Walla  river,  through  a  beiuUful  yalley  of  thirty 
nilas  in  extant,  parts  of  which  are  overgrows  with  tha  ooni< 
roon  trees  and  ahniba  of  auoh  locations,  interspersed  with 
wild  loass.    The  prairie  hen,  the  avoaet,  tha  robin,  and  va- 
riatiea  of  smaller  Urda,  seem  to  have  seleotad  th|a  aa  a  fiu- 
varitaratraat;  while  tha  animals,  which  we  hanra  bean  aaak- 
lag  for  game,  deeert  this  delightfiil  plaoe  aad  ind  their 
dwdliogs  on  more  ruggwi  tracts.    This  spot  imprassad-me 
bvoraUy  aa  tha  situation  for  the  misskmariea  who  should^ 
suocaad  ma,  and  in  every  thing  but  its  populoiMBeas  would* 
ftiimisli  advantagee  beyond  any  I  have  as  yet  saan.    Indi- 
ana of  dlflbiaBt  tribaa  border  on,  and  around,  this  valley, 
aad  tha  laeatioB  ia  therefore  less  oantral  for  any  one  of 
tbsaa.    They  might,  however,  be  brought  by  dagraea  t»> 
eoUaol  aad  aaitla  down  around  a  mission  station,  when  oooa' 
it  siwuld  ba  astaUiahad.  .^   . ,  ^  ^, ,  ^ 

Oelober  6tk.    We  aroaa  early  and  oemiMaoad  our  jooT' 

nay  with  the  -aaimatii^  hope  of  reaching  WalU  Walla,  and) 

afaaaiagoivlUasdpeo^  before  noon.    Asoanded  the  Uufli 

and  passed  ow  an  undulirting  prairie  of  good  aoil,  leaving 

tha  Walla  Walla  river  to  our  leA.    As  w*  drsw  near  te 

Columbia  river  tha  soil  became  mora  and  wtf*  Mady- 

13* 


V- 


.,,  .# 


*•' 


•Mtaf  «o«n  m4  oilMr  eMll«,  ia  Im  enlw,  IMliig apMiilM 
kmmmlm^t  mm! Um dgkt  wm aoKMly aovvl, aAw !»«% 
Vmb  w  loag  abMst  fWm  drUia^  lift,  b«H  «m  Um  mim*  in. 
t«rMiiii(b«o«iiMaiiM|Motod.  A«w«ouiMaMrtb««wi,tlb 
MiMM  Amd  tiMir  OMliNMry  mIM*,  uid  tliM  riMlMii  fer- 
'tnri  to  Ik*  gate.  Mt.  P.  C.  Pttmbnu,  tfw  mfwkumdtm, 
mtt  iM.  Md  gaf«  iM  •  kiad  wtlooa*.  I  .««•,  Mt  tto«» 
jojr  in  Mitoriiif  •  ftabitttkm  of  «i«i)iMd  nMn,  itIwm  Urn- 
fUfs  WM  not  Hmnge.  I  ftli  tfwt  I  M  mom  of  iliMk. 
MaMM.  that  Ood.  fa  Us  gn^t  nvroy,  mM  ^  iy«  wmoIU^] 
^RHrldme*,  had  litmgki.  ma  ia  w^  and  wMi  riatoiiid 
htaltk  to  tliia  plao*.  Sooa  I  waa  invited  into  aaotli«faf»ft. 
HMrt  to  bTMkilMt;  and  it  wa*  truly  jplaawat  aga^b  todtfti 
a  e»iir,  at  a  lilto  ^laad  wWi  rbroitaia,  and  Bwl  Immiim 

a.  iiaad  and  l»«itlar,  ■ugai' and  ««1,  af  wkkA  I  liad  lw« 
dvprii»ad  Amt  aLavt  tbiaa  maathi. 

t  a^ritad  Wi«  la  irfi  moMlw  and  twanty^kraa  da^a  alWr 
latving  trnm-^-htty-tv  day*  flraai  ^^-^Vtrmia  and  twaii. 
tjr  fifom  antfirbig  tlia  ialnon  rivaa  awmualaa, 


iHiflilliiMMiMiii 


mvl,  siWr  iMvIm 
Umm  hmM  fer- 
mm,  whoM  hm. 

I  MOM  of  tliMllt. 

1  ^  lib  wMelifcl 
«ii  wMi  NatBMd 
oloaiMKlMfafMi. 

vMok  I  1m4  Imh 


VillAAf 


CHAPTER  Vni. 

i«rw«ibW«ii»-a>»M<4ii tiru»i«4i»->ftfc» 

HaiBfti  Bigr  inwfMiy  teiw  Wali*  W«n»  Cm  UmI  Tma^wtr  h- 
^maiwm  w»«r>»-wyMi  hit*«<— itwi  to  Um  Ci^«m  !■<!■■■  WW. 
itf  ymyirti  »■■§  wyUte  Toloiiito  NMnntatM— It  jti  af  ImiUmi 
iwwwi^y  ■wtfiJ  •!  ^  Mb  of  tiM  Oalankb  iliw  trntkag  •#■ 
Ms  «r««*wy>4«  IhXkm-  Wtmm  umiim§  a— >Miy~f>w>rf»Mi 

I  aM  Ikt  FUUmUi  Mi4  If  M  riin4i 
I  mpM*— InilMi  Vtryhi  y law    fHW  iwih    tii>—il. 

I  Nlll"""Ulif'>  (III  Pitt  THMMnrMt 

Pasr  WdU  Wall*  k  Mtmlmi  em  tkm  •wth  tUa  ol  tk» 
ColiMiMa  fl«w,  tm  iiOm  Ukw  Um  pwiaxw—  of  iIm  Go. 
NAM*  tad  Uwk'  liw,  wUok  Imi  it  aawMoiy  mUmI. 
^  tiM  pMpb  {MkAfiric  to  tlM  Hiidwm  B»y  CkiaifMjr,  Mm 
f^R»A  ifiv«r{  tnA  MM)  nil*  abov*  tlw  W*1U  Wa^k  tivw, 
to  htftad*  4r  f,  l«ifitM<fe  110"  ao«.  TtMfertiilMiUt«r 
kfi,  and  is  immoMy  anmagsd  to  tmwt  Om  fWfnmm  af 
tiadb  ar<4  dnnaitio  ooKifert,  aad  axtomUly  far  daten,  bav- 
ii^  nvo  baMiooa,  and  ia  wnmndad  hf  a  i«woad>.  Tim 
milM  bakfw  Um  fen  Umi*  tea  nage  <^  ouuotaiiM  nmofaig 
BOrtii  aMi  mmkt  mhdoh,  Uto^lr,  aot  h^i^  an  y«t  of  oaarid' 
«aUa  BNifrilwia  j  aai  wImh  UMCotiUinUi  paaea  tivougli, 
it  k  araUfid  tq»  on  boUi  lidMi  viUi  basalt,  fan  naoy  pkMon 
dwealMBdiadfeetiMfpMMiieularlMigbt.  Tba  ooO.  fer  om- 
MandU*  dirttjai*  aioaad,  willi  Um  aaoaftioa  of  mmm  ali^ 
of  tetto»-laad,  kMMlj,  ood  ftv  Um  vaal  of  mnaMr  ralM 
it  not  pnduedTe.  Hii*  eaiabtiriiimMl  is  aol  umij  mf^lM 
vMi  th»  Blip— ariin  of  life,  bat  alao  viUi  owiqr  of  te  oon- 


"I— I'  ■ 


▼wiknoM.  Th«y  twv*  oowa,  boraw,  bogs,  (bwla,  4«.  mM 
ouiltvB*^  oorn,  poUktoM,  mmI  •  vnrurty  ofgcnkin  vagfUblM ; 
•ed  mif  ht  enlarga  (b«M  mhI  oth«r  produoliurw  to  •  gr««l 
MtMl.  Thmy  alio  kmf  on  luuid  dry  good*  and  iMrdwaA*, 
not  only  for  Uwlr  own  ooawnimoe,  but  tlm  for  Indian 
U««k.  During  mtm  of  tb«  year  thoy  h«v«  «  good  aupply 
of  A«b,  and  an  abundaoo*  of  lalnKm  of  Um  Ant  quality. 

WadniMday,  Tih.  Conlinuad  in  tbia  ptaoa.  flMtlad  with 
my  intarprautr,  gava  prMonlt  to  my  Indiana,  and  mado  ar. 
rsngvnianu  for  leaving  to  morrow,  in  a  oanoo  pn^ll«d  by 
Indiana  belonging  to  tba  Walla  Waila  triba,  for  Fort  Van- 
Muver,  which  ia  two  hundrwi  mile*  down  the  Columbia. 

Thua  I  am  putting  myself,  without  faar,  into  the  bandaof 
Indiana,  whara  a  few  yaara  ago  an  eaoort  of  fifty  men  waa 
■aoaaaary  for  aafoty,  and  aball  hava  to  paaa  placea  which 
hav«  baao  batlla  grounda  bet  wean  tmdara  and  Indiana. 

Tha  gantlamaa  belonging  to  tha  Hiidaoa  Bay  Gumiiaay 
•f  worthy  ot  ooaumrodalioa  for  thair  good  traatmaot  of 
tha  iMUaiM  by  which  they  have  obtained  thair  (Handahip 
and  iwnfldaaoa,  and  alao  for  tha  ellbrta,  which  aoma  few  of 
than  hava  made  to  inatruot  thoao  about  tham  in  tha  flnl 
priaaiplaa  of  our  holy  religion ;  aapaoially  in  n^  to 
•qiaity,  humility,  and  morality,  lliia  ooiapany  ia  of  loi^ 
Madfaig,  have  baoooM  rich  hi  tha  Air  trada,  and  bitMd'  t* 
paqprtaal*  tha  boainaM ;  Iharafora  ihay  oouault  tha  proapar. 
ity  of  tha  Indiana  aa  httinataly  oonnaotad  with  thair  own. 
I  hava  not  haaid,  aa  y«t.  ofaifa^a  inataaoaofany  ladlBea 
haiag  wantonly  kiUad  by  any  of  tha  man  balonging  to  tUa 
oorapany.  Nor  have  I  haaid  any  hnaatlng  aaioag  than  of 
tha  aartaftntton  taken  hi  JUlling  or  ahdriiif  Indianab  that  I 
hava  akawhora  haard. 

Tlu>nday»  8th.    My  thira  Walla  Walla  Indiana  havlif 


«■■ 


MHi 


m 


Oliuiw  lo  •  gTMt 

da  ftnd  lMniwft^>, 
t  •Im  fi>r  Indian 
v«  •  good  supply 
I  Anrt  quality. 
M.  8«ttliMl  wlUi 
n»,  and  madn  ar. 
inoe  propellad  by 
bo,  for  Fort  Van- 

the  Columbia. 

into  the  hands  of 
of  fifty  men  wa« 
•«  placca  which 
and  Indiana. 
>  Bay  Gumpany 
ood  traatflMot  o( 
1  ihair  fHandiMp 
liich  wroa  few  of 
tham  in  tha  flm 
lly  in  Nfafd  to 
npaay  ia  of  Umg 
b,  and  bit«id  t* 
MvUthapraipw. 
witk  thair  own. 
wofanylMttaca 
baloBfiBf  to  dUa 

among  thorn  of 
lladiaoa^OMU  I 

I  hdlaiia  havlif 


gol  alt  thiifa  fan  w dinaw,  maia.  pnnrMoM,  4m>.  IWmiahad 
by  tha  kiadwNa  of  Mr.  Pambrtui,  and  ha  haviac  uivan  tham 
thair  iajlniotkMM,  I  want  on  board  tha  oanoa  at  nio«  o'olook 
in  tha  morning,  and  having  pa«MMl  tha  uaual  MluUtiona, 
wa  ihovad  off,  and  gaotly  glt«i«<l  down  tha  rivar,  whtoh  hara 
ia  thr«afourth«  of  a  mil*  wida.  I  fait  myaalf  in  a  naw 
•ituation — my  honna  diainiaMNi— in  a  fVail  oanoa  upon  tha 
wida  watara  of  tha  Columbia,  aubjaot  to  winda,  and  with 
rapida  and  fhlia  on  tha  way,  and  among  •rtranger  ItMUaa% 
two  haadrad  milaa  by  watar  baft.r«  I  oould  aipaot  to  (tod 
any  whita  nan  ;  to  paaa  through  aararal  natioaa  whoaa  laa. 
guagaa  aia  antiraly  diibrant;  yat  tha  ehaaga  tnm  bona. 
hMk,  tm  oMatlw  ovar  mountaiaa  and  plalna,  through  daAhw 
and  nrimm  vaa  aiUMpalad  wHh  aatiafiMitioa. 

My  dma  IndiaM  wan  wall  aoquahMad  wHh  tha  rivaraad 
vHh  tha  ait  of  naMgiag  tha  oanoa.  Ona  of  ihaai  oadar. 
■load  tha  Ifaa  Pkiwd  tanguag*  tolarakly  wall,  wm  ^mf  U> 
qaaotmia  aad  vaia,  and  wiaiMd  to  ha  thooght  a  Ma  oT  taa. 
HataldHMhawaatodotha  talkliig.  and  tiw 
•tvowaNlodaaahaiihoalddlnMt.  OaaoomnlarMi 
I  md  lo^waelatti  hahlta  I  aallad  fate  my  aMtor. 
OMoflkaatkortirobwIwiBok  tha  nam  and  itoaiW  tti 
otmm,  waa  a  itoot  hmway,  tvagaloeidf  laaa,  lampHi 
III  lapiiMlM  iif  Mi  iiiiiKiainiii,  hliiTi  -^^t  ■-^'-'^  of 
[■HWgiaiiMil|nniniiT-t  ThatMid,«hataor  *ahew, 
waaaUaMdwalldiaroatdyowgMui.  Tha  ofaaiMwl 
UtiwghUw  volouils  notuilaia, a UtUa holmw  js!  < ftirt, haaa 
dTliMWiiadanoraalara)  how  k  wm  fcnaad  thimigh  thaaa 
iwi— lly  haid  haaaWa  loefaa  to  tha  depth  of  ahoot  thiaa 
huadrad  iMt,  aad  fcr  tha  diataaoa  of  two  or  thfoo  nHaa, 
ramafaM  imexpiaiBad.  Bnt  my  attontioa  waa  lo  mooh 
takaa  ap  with  the  boilteg  addka  and  the  varying  ettrranta, 


W.JHipii 


•Jm 


that  I  did  not  take  tlwM  obMrratiooa  which  under  dHftrent 
oiroumstences  might  here  been  mede,  end  which  tlMWfldery 
Mad  phenomena  demanded.  In  one  plaoe,  as  we  paand  out 
of  the  mountain  channel,  the  river  ran  so  impidly  .over  A> 
rooky  bed,  and  the  water  was  so  broken,  that  I  thoi^ght  it 
unsafe  to  continue  in  the  canoe,  and  requested  my  Indians 
to  put  me  ashore.  My  talking  Indian  said,  <<  toit,"  (good.) 
I  told  him,  toaiitu  taUi  hapteU,  (not  good,  but  bad.)  But  still 
be  said,  low,  Ip^,  and  I  concluded,  that  they  would  not  de- 
olitte  putting  me  on  shore,  if  there  was  any  partioular  dan^ 
gwr.  The  man  at  the  stem  put  off  into  the  mkidle  of  the 
river,  where  the  water  was  the  smoothest,  but  when  the 
euirent  was  equally  strong,  and  with  his  keoi  eye  fixed  upon 
the  varying  eddies,  applied  his  bnAfniy  arms  to  the  work ; 
and  whenever  a  ohaa^  of  hie  paddle'fi«m  one  akie  d^  the 
oanoe  was  neoMsary,  it  was  done  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye. 
Any  AUlure  of  right  management  would  have  been  disis> 
but  thfsy  kiqit  the  eanoe  in  the  right  direoikii^  aad 
w«  ahot  dow«  with  MhJi  vefedty,  as,  togetfwr  with"<Ae 
biMktaf  in  of  some  water,  to  oaiin  aoUoitade.  '  Bat  this 
served  to  mi^  the  smooth  part%  wbaa  ira  arrived  at  dMn, 
mere  pleasswt,  and  to  natix^  way  mind  nON  ti«UM|«il  l»«ki 
gaid toifatuw danferfc.-ti,;;,v...v; ;.,=  :;■;,--;■. -•  ■''•■m 

At  tweo'elopk  in  the  aAefnoon,  we  «iall«d  at  in  eMao^ 
iiMMt  of  Cayuae  ladiaoe  of  about  a  dsMi  kidgea.  When 
we  had  oo«ie  widria  hearing,  m]r  onier  ayMoiraoed  ear 
ajpproaoh  and  infiMrraad  them  who  I  wa4^  and  die  oUgiMt  «f 
my  tour,  mad  that  Hmy  must  prepam  to  reeeive*  me  wtth 
all  due  reipect— that  I  was  not  a  tra^r,  aad  that  I  had  «ot 
oome  with  goods,  but  to  teaeh  then  how  to  weMAdp  ^kid. 
They  arranged  themselves  w  sin^  file^  die  ohidb  and 
prinoipal  men  finrward,  diea  the  mom  ooiuaqa  Man,  aMct 


iiiiiliaiiiifiiiiir 


•WPP 


MOUnM  »BO«IOT. 


115 


bh  under  dUftrent 
IwhiohthSMStfiery 
B,  M  we  pMwd  out 
eo  impidlyjsver  ■ 
I,  that  I  thoiight  it 
nested  my  Indkiu 
id,"to»»,"(good.) 
utbud.)  Butatill 
bey  would  not  de- 
ny partiouUr  dan>> 
the  mkidle  of  the 
Mt,  but  where  the 
een  eye  fixed  upon 
ame  to  the  work ; 
Hn  one  aide  (^  the 
rinklingofMieye. 
I  have  been  diiis- 
ight  direaiioii^  aad 
iDgeliwr  with-lhe 
ioitode. '  Bat  Ab 
mtanvndmtAma, 
ON  ti«aq«il  l»fe* 

II«d  at  tok  aaeaaq^ 
■I  lodges.  mMB 
»r  aiMoiraoed  our 
and  tiw<4liiHrt«r 
It  reeahw  dm  irHh 
aadtlMtlladMt 
'  to  wonUp  ^hid. 
1%  dta  dydb  and 


the  woBMO,  aooordfaig  to  their  rank,  the  wivee  of  oMeA, 
the  old  women,  the  young^-and  then  the  ohildrao  aeeor- 
ding  to  age.  All  things  being  made  ready,  the  salute  was 
ftredf  and  I  landed  and  shook  hands  with  all,  even  the 
youngest  ohildren,  many  of  whom,  when  they  presented 
the  hand,  would  turn  away  their  Amms  through  fear.  I 
made  them  some  presents,  and  bought  of  them  some  dried 
salmon  and  oranberrias.  These  were  the  first  oranber- 
rias  I  had  seen  west  of  the  Rooky  Mountains,  and  dtey 
were  a  grateful  aetd.  The  Indians  expressed  much  satls> 
faction  in  seeing  me<  and  the  obieot  of  my  ooming  among 
tham.  I  told  them  I  oouM  not  explain  to  them  all  I  wished, 
bat  they  most  meet  me  aaxtq|wfa^  at  Walla  Walla,  iriiere 
I  siwnld  have  an  interpreter,  and  than  I  w«dd  tell  thans 
about  God*;  AAar-again  shakktg  haub  with  Aen,  w»w«ai 
on  oor  waj»»"  y- "•  -■■»■ 

▲t  five  o'oleok  we  landed  upon  the  noidi  ahina,  and  em- 
oamped  near  a  laige  anmber  of  Nan  Parad  bkUansb  wha 
oaaw  about  nw  witk  the  tokens  of  fHsndsUp  and  hinteo8% 
wUeh  ohaiaelMiae  th^  aatkin.  Among tiwir  aoteof Un^ 
naas  thqr  biought  no  mud,  wfafoh  in  tya'aaothitt  af  iim 
ooantiy ii  aoaioa;  aad  gathand  sawll  hnJiia  and  giasi# 
make  nqr  bed  ufon. 

Ootober  9^    We  arose  bafim  day,  and  as  aooo  as  any 
light  i^ppaared,  taauaaed  our  Tuyi^  down  the  civar.    Hm 
nMmkiigwtaa]^eaMnt^^oottntry  arsund  openand  Avar. 
aified  arlili  rotUng^  j^akries,  and  the  dfalant  mountain  tepir 
wars  melloiwed  wiA  tha  (qpaning  beana  ot  the  rising  sul|r' 
It  waa  a  lina  in  pleasing  oontamphtisiis,  aaoh^aa  baa^' 
idtedidl  fidbi0r<rfairfttada,alAoug^iwsoiU9dtMleei^Qa 
the  «ar,  axespt  tka  vagidariy  tfanedabndMs  of  te  pad^ 
of.:nqp  Indiaii%^«iK»  «IM«  urging  teward  dw  oaaoa  with 


■M 


mm 


fwrn 


fmm'um'm 


m  l>BBihirti<  wl— ity,  giMMr  dim  Uw  tmnmi  «f  dw 
vIvMr  would  hKf  ouiM  w. 

Abom  Ih*  BiMl«  of  Um  day,  dM  (rilflOM  WM  iatemipiid 
by  Um  iwur  of  «  diotant  rapid,  dM  niHid  of  whieh  ooadaood 
10  inoiMM,  MtU  dM  wUte  braalriBf  water  was  pwwted 
to  vitw.  Fbr  flwaiml  milM  die  bad  of  dio  river  waa  iUed 
widi  iQck%  and  eeveral  rooky  islanda  and  rinala,  aiiMag 
whioh  die  wUrliag  and  fiMuadog  water  waa  fendng  te  way. 
Tim  only  part  of  the  river,  wUdi  preeented  aay  appeaiwice 
of  Mklbty,  waa  along  near  the  aoothdiore.  TUehadioaie- 
what  the  appaaiaaoe  of  a  wake.  My  Indiaiia  made  no 
MovenMt  ibr  laadhnj,  but  kept  near  dia  aiUUle  of  the  livar. 
On  my  aipn— iwg  aeoM  apprahendkine of  dangar,  thtqr  point, 
ad  tewMd  dM  waka  and  «iid,  **9oiaJ'  I petatad  finward 
"^Mid  tonraid  the  nmtii  ahewe,  and  mtd,  liyaffa,  (bad.)  They 
•aawMad,  "«<,  InpMit;"  and  widi  the  language  ef  ajgns 
neoompanying  their  wonh^  icid  ma  they  weuld  heap^lhe 
I  Aa  gaod  w^er,  and  it  would  net  iU»  ner  hndianm 
liy  niiidMtnii  hi  dMir  ikill  nf  miwigB 
ibeiMt-waU  eatBbUdMd,  I  made  no  otaeetkm  to  Ikttit 
gaiflg  ftvtMwd,  and  hi  a  vuty  ahoit  thna  wa  iMd  ppamddw 
appaMnI  dangavy  nnd  wara  Riding  along  cnar  the  amoedi 
:  auHhoe  on  the  aoath  tide  of  a  large  iidand,  lAont  aix  tiOm 
long.      ■     ■  __.  ■■ . 

M  During  the  day»  the  country  around  waa  oompaantifely 
)avei«  ««vered  widia  hbekaoO,  wMdi  appeara  to  hniw  heen 
tinned  by  atuMfharle  agMta  deannywiwg  the  inriaaaie 
aubdtanaee^  «Uoh  aa  generally  abound.  Hie  aeotfoa  of 
the  opuntry  ie  ihXi  aiqpplM  with^fMaa,  ^wliiah  dniing<  dM 
BuninevdmidiiaaenVMtadhyHifany.    Wha«an«deulM 


'    I  MiiiniiiiMuiiinifti  iii'iii  wiB(w*ininin<iiWBMiii<^ 


wmmifmmmm 


pmupipi  I     - 


'V, -'!•.• 


.1*1" 


itr 


i«r  dw 


M  WM  iBterraptad 

b*  rivtr  waa  ilM 
md  rinalsi  MiMwg 
M  forafaag  ita  way. 
id  aafjr  ajppaaiWBce 
I.    TUahadaona- 

Tn4tnm  aoada  no 
aUUIaofthaiivar. 
d— gar,th<qryoit. 

I  pataiad  fiMwaid 
M<^(bad.)  Thasr 
laafiiaga  af  aigaa 

Att^aarb^dnMni 
draUUataNtn^ia- 


ig  ovar  \k0moBA 
ad,  abnit  aix  iMilaa 

i^aa  OBifiaaaiifaly 

iPaara  (n  haiia  Iwan 
wiflg  the  iRriaaak 

,mhUk  dMiB«.  tha 
W]w«a*Mle«kM 
eh  nigiA  ba  Jm|K 
lahiw  ihm  tha  aawi 


af «  fcw  kanfaMn  aad  ahaphank  Wa  ( 
north  aida  of  tha  ihrar  aaM«f  aaaM  aaad  hilia,  c^  Ihtia  bahMT 
aawand  hid|aa  of  tha  Walla  Walk  lodlaaa,  to  wham  i  had 
iha  aaual  and  fennal  httradnotfoa. 

l^vaa  idaMiad  to  find  Indiana  baloDgiag  todiAsranttribaa 
■ea<lawid  alaag  tUa  timt,  IMag  ia  bamoojr  whboot  any 
fenda  OT  jaahMaiaa.  It  qiaaka  maoh  in  finror  of  thair  Und 
Md  paaeaabiedlapoaitiona. 

Da  tha  10th,  wa  araae  baiiMW  day,  aftar  a  night'te  eon. 
iwtabla  raat,  and  by  tha  fint  broaking  light  had  oar  batfi^ 
gaga  on  boanl  and  wara  uadMT  way.    TiMranla  tha  nridA* 
«f  tha  day  waoanMtoa  mora  momtainooatraetofoomitry, 
and^  a  plaoa  whare  the  mnmitaina  oiwaad  ^  Hvar^  w«f» 
twy  100I7  mpida,  bot-by  winding  «Hr  ««y  among  Itiaadi 
naarthaaafthahoia,  wanHdasMifedMeMrt.    Abontnoni^ 
a  haad  mia^  whkdi  oommanead  in  tha  fciapait  of  m 
dagppJMMl  haooBM  Aaa^  «nd  the  watrea  bagan  to  mMfIfy 
thrfrwUta-oapa^aothat  it  waa  dangarana  natigatidii  «t 
a«r«ama,  aad  w«  had  to  land  aiid  wait  fcv  n  now  ftvw*; 
U#liaM.    fl^aMampad  on  tha  north  aida  of  tha  tHM^ 
iMMhr  •  vnry  h%h  and  ronai^  baMMe^-uwaitfaitt;  m 
aonnafMlaiMar  oa  tha  raeky  waUa  wara  ttiiw  thm  l#|| 
hnadrad  feat  in  pavpMidionlar  heigb«-'-4n^aia  piMa  hi^hipr 
aver.    In  aoaaa  plMaa»  aad  at  diflbrent  ahkodaaoftfaialm. 
nwM»^rftU^lhara  wwa  aaviUaa  of  oonaidankblaniagni^dB^ 
awMB.adpar%  widoMMidaai^flaniiaa}  throfq^onaoririMi 
fMHMM  tharaad  trawM  by  pedaatrteaa  and  AoaaonlMMi* 
baak*    Hda  idaea  ia  tna  wflaa  abera  tha  Mb  of  tte^QI^ 
lanrida*whMi  tha  Indiana  eall  tha  (wm  timtt  tha  aania  'm' 
|>W»wia>th^4M»-ftarAabaating^afttw^>aatl.  ■^•'y-* 

Abaat*niila  lOioav  tt^aoHM' Wa^  1)^^ 
oappad,  Many  af  whom  aaaw  la  my  taM  and  wiahid  t»««. 

la 


1 


•VP 


lit  TBUi  or  iMNAii  «BinHU>arr. 

A  JMmM,  a  chief;  and  wouW  wptot  •  pwMrt.     A«  •  ,»ri»i 
of  their  diiporiUeo,  I  U»W  Wmlhty  hwi  Ml  bitmght  ■•  any 

wood  for  a  ftra,  and  I  would  not  give  them  any  thing  vM 
they  ahoved  their  kindneie.  But  he  eaid  I  mual  make  the 
ohief  a  pieeent  and  buy  of  them  wood.  I  replied,  weita, 
if  he  is  a  chief  let  him  ehow  the  geneioeity  of  a  chief. 
Very  aooo  they  brought  wood,  and  a  fit*  wee  made,  wWch 
I  fiilewed  with  eome  preaent*.  4jM^  ■*' 

Sabbath,  llth.  We  continued  in  the  «ama  woanpiasai, 
wi  my  heart's  desire  was  much  excited  for  the  salvation 
(^  these  poor  heathen.  There  was  a  oufiioient  number 
•^hei^lo  haw  made  a  decent  oongregation  ifi  had  poMaaad 
MI7  medium  of  ooromunioation.  Their  languafe  diftra 
ftom  the  NeaFerois,  ao  that  I  oouW  hare  no  oomnmnion. 
tj^  1^  them  exoept  throuf^  my  oralor„who aakad  naif 
h»  sbottW  to«A  A^  Indiana  whnl  hn  hndJsnnW  ahsnt 
Qai  and  his  worship.  1 1*'*  W*  fwwisrftm,  though  1 
Hwnd^n  was  induenoed  mow  by  k»»a  of  distinction  thM 

Wg  higher  aa&f}  bul  stIlU  I  would  r^joioe*  if  any  tnin 

Udhftsbottld  be  inqfwrted  to  them. 
'     Tl  aroee  the  latter  part  of  <he  night  of  the  Mlh»  and  the 
.   ipather  being  oaUn,  and  the  moon  shining  {pleasantly,  wa 

took  oiiK  depftrtoyn  for  the  Falls,  where  w«  anivad  soms 

tinn  befoia  day.    AUw»  the  Falls  the»  is  a  large  island, 
,     «pUi»'«nth«de  of  whiob  is  a  commodious  bay,  near  which 

MmI  upon  the  river  De  Shutes,  which  here  unites  with  the 
Columbia,  there  is  a  Tttlage  of  the  Fall  Indiana  of  ahont 
thirty  lodges.  Hew  we  landed,  and  my  talhat  raised  Us 
mt»ML:fo^  ttt  motk  a  note aanmiMdlha  whola ^fB^m* 


mmmmm 


r. 
ilMrUMUBtobtqr 

OMOrtbMMWM 

mt.  A«»|rMa 
Imwgtit  ■«  uiy 
I  uy  thing  oBitt 
I  mini  malw  Um 
I  rapUed,  iMtfta, 
oAj  of  •  ohicf. 
iTM  made,  wUoh 

kHM  9H0aSip^^MH| 

for  the  MlvttiM 
luffioieBt  numbw 
lfJh«dpo«MMd 
lMifftti««  diftn 
t  ao  oamMmvamf 

.VhDMlMiMif 


wMMmnMi 


thought  1 
»C  dMDetkm  thM 
»it>ioe»  if  My  tnw 

the  MlhiMMithe 
lag  |^l«M»atl]r,  «• 
I  iPD  Miived  MBW 
liealMge  iafawd* 
iisbfty,iieftrwUali 
m  uBilMwithtk* 
lidttaM  of  ahofot 
rtalketMiMdhie 


■  ****••■  jji  A4tftit.  ■'■w<**«» 


tM 


oftlliog  npm  the  oMe*  w  hriee,  ud  with  their  people  i*. 
oelte the  penoMge  whh  Um  te doe ftm.  hiraab«l» 
■bort  tioM  bettre  their  Ifaie  «m  •mned.the  tnl  ohief  iMd. 
ing  the  way,  Md  olhen  acoofdUBg  to  their  mA  and  ago 
Mtowing,  and  the  oeremony  of  ahaking  haadi  waa  per* 
ftmnad;  and  an  retii«d  to  their  ledgee  agate. 

Then  ia  a  great  iraM  of  Boataeae  among  IndiaDa  in  g«». 
etal,  hot  mon  eepeoiany  among  thoae  on  this  rhrer,  who 
im  by  flahtog. 

Bare  wa  left  oar  oaaoe,  and  took  hoiaes  and  pnoeedad 
hy  land,  upon  the  aouth  tide  of  - -'rar,  paaaiiig  by  the  Falla, 
aftd  down  the  La  Iklka,  wtx  iMm.  Piom  the  lower  and 
of  the  iriand  where  the  rapldi  begin,  to  tiia  peipandlodk» 
Ml,  ia  about  two  miiaa ;  and  here  Oe  rfVar  ooMMOti,  i*Mb 
the  arat^ii  tow,  to  a  taiy  nanow  apnea,  and  WiOk  aniy3^ 
4MM  dlMiMBa  of  iwm  wmar,  U  mdMa  ibi  plnnga  twenty  ftm 
or  IMM  p«»t»MdleaIar;  and  then,  after  a  ahoit  dhiaad*  «r 
MpM%  daihtag  agrinat  the  toeis,  movaa  on  hi  *  aatMw 
pWMgo.  MM  WMrfapidB  And  addlaa,  among  toleattie  iMl% 
•iitad  the  LtfPailga,  Ilii  wiiia;  and  than  apraadaoMinio 
ngoMlateeidohaniiel.  At  the  Pklla  and  the  La  DalMa 
balMr,  dMra  ttra  mvanl  portagee,  where  boati  and  oaaMM, 
aa  wall  aa  baggage,  hare  tftbalMaapDfMd.  Thi  gaolDf . 
ioat  fbroiotion Homr  thia  diatanoe  it  alagtiUr.  Wllkiia 
oMepOen  of  a  Anr  h|(h  hilli  and  Uuft,  Iha  Am  IM 
liildaaMnilidiirabntHKle  abotn  the  riter  in  tM  ftaAit 
irfM  ,^and  jrat  the  ohuuwl  of  the  ritar  ia  lhtoi%h  thk  Miitt. 
m  baaah  and  iHhygdifcld.  Hha  thia  ohanntol  wteft  Ml 
aolM  rook  Mtti^iont  tf  afl^  it  trhit  titeaf  Thartii  iM» 
i#iiuittM  «Hha  flhaatnl  havin|  ikon  patMpHbtjr  daapar, 
fltaooihirrodb^  fteu  ihiir  melted  iNata,  Wata  ainaad  Mt 
ma  tiia»  pmm  ^mmatt,  whfah  at  ha^^b  Mtoh  |ilMa 


/ 


MNP 


I  I  4liw« 


14t 


MMToir  nAMiM  ceiirAifT. 


wntiwUt  and  OMBtiniM  ago.    A*  I  kav*  no  oonlldenM  in 
tlMoriM  foundtd  upon  oonJMtur*,  oor  in  Indian  tradiUooa,  I 
laa\a  tha  aubjaot  for  olhan  to  tell  u«  how  thaoa  Uiiogt  took 
plao«.     Fomwr  viaitara,  among  whom  I  nama  Doct.  Qard- 
nar,  a  laaraad  Bngliah  naturaliit  whom  I  mw  at  Oahu. 
Sandwioh  lalanda,  axpreMod  hia  antira  inability  aatia&otor- 
ily  to  aooount  for  thia  paouliar  pbaoomenon.    Nor  doaa  tha 
Indian  tradition,  that  the  Grtai  Woff  mads  this,  togatbar 
with  all  tha  toanary  that  delightad  my  aye  as  I  par  id  down 
tha  rivar,  raliava  tha  mind  of  ita  iriepraMibla  ourkxity. 
Tkie  ia  ooa  of  tha  baet  looationa  for  salmao  fiahh^;,  and 
great  numbari  of  Indiana  ooUaot  in  tha  Maaon  of  taking 
tbam,  which  oommenoaa  tha  laat  of  April,  or  tha  ftrrt  of 
May,  and  oootinuaa  aaveral  montha. 
%,  Mtba  lower  part  of  tha  La  Dallea,  I  found  Capt.  Wyatb, 
ftam  Boaton,  with  a  noall  oorapany  of  man  going  up  tha 
rirar  to  Fort  Hall.    Capt.  Wyetb,  who  w  an  intolligant  and 
aaoiabla  man,  had  the  charge  of  the  buainaaa  of  a  oouqiaBy 
fomad  in  Boaton,  for  ulmon  fidung  on  tha  CdumUa,  and 
for  trade  and  trapping  in  tha  ragkn  of  the  HMnrntaina.    The 
plan  af  the  company  waa  to  aand  a  abip  annually  around 
Cape  Horn  into  Columbia  river,  to  bring  out  gooda  for  trada, 
and  to  take  home  tha  aalmon  and  fura  wbwh  ehould  be  ob- 
tunad  during  the  year.    It  waa  expaotad  that  tha  profita  on 
tba  ealroon  would  defray  all  common  axpenaaa,  and  that 
Um  pioAta  on  tha  fttia  would  be  clear,  and  yield  »  haadaome 
inooaMt    But  thua  for  the  eaterpriaehaa  been  attended  with 
many  diaaatera,  and  the  loaa  of  many  llvaa    ■aTwal  of  tha 
OM^wara  drowned,  andothera  killed  by  Indiana. 

Hepa  I  dianoiMMd  my  Walla  Walla  Indiaarto  latnn,  and 
TUkI,  tha  firat  chief  of  the  La  Pallaa  Indiana,  engaged  ^ 
ftunjbb  ma  with  a  canoe  and  men  to  carry  ma  to  Foit  Yan^ 


MiilittMiiiNllii 


•Jmrn* 


no  oonfideoM  in 
Bdkn  tnditiom,  I 
tlMBM  thiogt  ttxA 
MM  Doot.  Gkrd* 
I  WW  at  Oftliu. 
lUlity  Mtitibotor- 
m.    NordoMthe 
ids  thla,  together 
I  as  I  pMT  id  down 
rMeible  ourioiity. 
Innao  fiahhif ,  and 
ffffffla  of  ti^tw 
rU,  or  tbe  Aim  of 

undCapt.  WyetK, 
nen  going  up  the 
an  intelligent  and 
taeaofa  oonqiany 
iha  CdumUa,  and 
nMHintaint.  The 
annually  around 
lutgoodalbrtrada, 
>ich  ahottld  be  ob- 
that  the  prodts  on 
ixpenaee*  and  that 
1  yield  fihandeonie 
been  attended  with 
ee— eevwral  of  the 
Indiana. 

liana- to  retting  and 
idians,  engagad  *> 
yBMtoFcHctVw- 


tn<VMfAt>  niMUMlNON  • 

•owrer.  I  epent  the  night  with  Capt.  Wyeth,  and  obtained 
Aam  hi«  a  short  vooabiilary  of  the  Chenook  language,  to 
enable  me  to  do  oommon  baainem  with  the  Indiana  reaidlng 
along  on  the  lower  part  of  thie  river. 

TUeaday,  18th.  I  left  at  nim  o'clock  in  the  morning,  in 
the  oanoe  with  three  men  ftjimiahed  by  TilkT,  and  madf 
good  progress  dowti  the  river,  which  here  flows  in  a  wkfe 
and  gentle  current.  Many  parts  of  the  way,  the  rhrer  Ui 
walled  up  with  MgK  and  perpendicular  bamilt.  At  the  La 
Dallaa  oomnwncw  a  wooded  country,  which  becomea  mote 
and  more  dense  as  we  desrtend,  and  more  broken  with  high 
Mils  and  preoiploee.  I  otaerved  a  remarkable  phenoMe- 
BOa— trees  standing  in  their  natural  position  In  the  river, 
in  many  places  where  » la  water  ia  twenty  6et  deap,  aiid 
rising  to  high  or  ktOttt  water  mark,  which  is  flfteali  fbaC" 
above  the  low  water.  Above  the  lireshet  rise,  the  topri  of  Aa 
trees  are  decayed  and  gone.  I  deferred  Ibrming  an  optnioo 
in  regard  to  the  oauas,  nntU  I  should  oollect  mon  dMt. 
About  the  middle  of  the  day  a  south  wind  b^^an  ti>¥k»#, 
and  continued  to  Increase  until  it  became  neoeaaafy  tt 
go  on  shore  and  encaimp,  which  we  did  about  four  la  die 
afternoon. 

On  tfie  14th,  we  did  not  make  much  progress  on  aooooirt 
of  wind  and  rain.  W«  encamped  in  a  cavern  under  a 
large  projecting  rook,  the  upper  part  of  which  waa  ftrmed 
of  basalt,  the  lower  of  oonglomerate.  Although  thia  waa 
at  leaM  eix  miles  from  the  Cascades,  yet  the  roar  of  the  €i,i 
tar  ooold  be  dMnotly  heard.  The  samo  pheoomea6^  il^ 
the  trees  continued.  I  paid  particular  attention  to  tlia  oon- 
dMoD  of  the  shdites  of  the  river,  and  the  adjacent  hilla  and 
mountains,  to  toe  if  there  were  any  eaoarpmenii  preaenting 
sueh  condition,  as  would  furnish  evidence  of  their  having 


■RHP 


mrnm 


148 


UHillUNJI  Wll*IIMmT«< 


imMoM  by  ImiUHpt  ;  but  m  than  w*r«  bo  swh  kppMr. 
aaoM,  and  Um  ooodHiou  of  Um  troM  wm  Um  mom  wImiv 
tbwr*  wera  no  hills  mmI  mountakit  omlt,  I  wm  Ud  to  ooa* 
jMtura,  th»t  I  ahould  And  tba  ritor  at  th«  CMoadM  dMBiMd 
up  with  Yoloanio  produotioM ;  aod  I  wm  iaduood  to  be. 
liova  it  would  ba  round  ao,  fVom  thtf'&ot,  that  the  rivar,  tha 
whole  diatanoa  (Vom  tha  La  Dallaa,  ia  wida  and  daap,  and 
laovaa  with  a  aluggiah  ourreni. 

On  tha  l&tb,  tha  wind  and  rain  oontinaing  through  Iha 
laoraing,  I  did  not  leave  my  encampment  until  noon,  whan 
wa  aet  forward  and  arrived  at  the  Caaoadaa  at  two  o^olook 
in  tba  afternoon.    The  treea,  to^y,  ware  still  mora  mu» 
tnaioua,  in  many  plaoaa  etanding  in  deep  water,  and  wa  had 
to  pick  our  way  with  tha  oanoe  in  some  plaoea,  m  through 
a  foraat.    Tha  water  of  the  river  ia  ao  oleart  that  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  examining  their  poaition  down  to  tha  apread. 
ing  roots,  and  found  them  in  the  same  oonditkio  m  whan 
ataading  in  tba  eatural  forest.    As  I  approached  the  Caa- 
eadaa,  instead  of  finding  an  embankment  formed  frqm  vol- 
oaaio  aruptiona,  the  abores  above  tha  fltlls  were  low,  and  the 
valooity  of  tha  water  began  to  aooalerate  two-thirda  of  a 
mile  above  the  main  rapid.    On  a  full  examination,  it  ia 
plainly  evklent  that  here  hM  been  a  mMdena  of  a  tract  of 
land,  more  than  twenty  mileain  iMglk,  and  about  a  mile  in 
width.    The  treea  standing  in  tha  water  ara  found  moMy 
towardaand  naai  the  north  ahora,  and  yet,  from  tha  depth 
•f  Uie  river  and  its  sluggish  movement,  I  should  oooolude 
tfie  subsidanoe  afi(«ted  the  whole  bed.    That  the  tiaea  are 
not  wholly  decayed  down  to  low  water  mark,  provaa  that 
the  aubaidenoe  is  comparatively  of  reoent  date ;  aad  their 
undiaturbed,  natural  poaition,  proves  that  it  took  plaoa  in  a 
tranquil  manner,  not  by  any  tremeadoua  oonvulaicw    f  na- 


%. 


tJmm 


■W 


Mi 


mm 


TBS  CASff,^  WM» 


14S 


■0  tueh  appMir- 
Um  mom  wImiw 

WM  l«d  to  OOB- 

I  iiiduo«d  to  bd- 
hat  the  riv«r,  tha 
a  and  daap,  and 

Dtag  through  Ih* 
until  noon,  whaa 
w  at  two  o'olook 
ra  atill  mora  bu* 
rater,  aad  wa  had 
laoea,  aa  throiigb 
»art  that  I  had  an 
wn  to  tha  apraad* 
jonditioo  aa  whan 
roaohad  the  Caa* 
fcnnad  frqm  vol- 
were  low,  and  the 
le  two-thirda  of  • 
examinatioo,  it  ia 
deuce  of  a  tract  of 
ad  about  a  ndla  in 
are  found  moatly 
et,  fiom  the  depth 
ahould  oooolude 
rhatthetnea  are 
mark,  provea  that 
kt  date ;  and  their 
;  it  took  plaoe  In  a 
ooovulaion    fna* 


ture.  The  cauee  Ilea  oonoeated,  but  the  Oust  i«  plain. 
That  parte  of  foreela  may  in  this  way  eubiiiergo,  ia  evident 
from  aimilar  &ota.  The  noted  one  on  the  eastern  ooaat  of 
Yorkahira  and  Linoolnahire,  England,  ia  about  fifteen  fcet 
below  low  water  mark,  extending  eastward  a  oonaiderable 
diataooe  from  the  shore,  in  which  stumps  and  roots  of  treee 
are  seen  in  their  natural  position.  So  manifest  ia  the  evi- 
dence of  great  changes  having  taken  place  by  voloanio 
power,  in  these  regions  west  of  the  Rooky  MounUine,  both 
by  upheaving  and  subsidence,  that  we  are  led  to  enquire 
whether  there  are  not  now  such  agents  in  operation,  and 
upon  auoh  materials,  that  the  valleya  shall  be  literally  ei- 
aked,  and  the  mountaina  be  made  low,  and  waters  spring  up 
in  tha  deeerta. 

The  Caacades,  so  called  to  diatinguish  them  flmn  tha 
Palla,  do  not  differ  materially  from  them,  exeept  in  tha 
wild  romantic  scenery  around.  There  is  no  perpendioular 
Adl,  but  tha  water  oonoentratee,  fnmi  its  wQe  spread  form, 
to  a  very  narrow  compaaa,  and  then  rushes  with  great  im- 
patuoaity  down  an  alaoost  perpendioular  praoipioa  twenty 
or  thirty  foet^  and  oontinuea  in  a  foaming  and  whirling  de- 
scant nxMt  of  the  way  five  milaa  farther,  where  it  mcala  the 
tide  watars  (irom  the  Paoilio  ocean.  Above  the  folia,  ia  the 
r|ver,  there  are  many  ialand%  but  none  of  them  luw  very 
large— -aome  are  only  voloanio  rooka.  The  country  about 
the  Caaoadee,  and  many  milea  below,  ia  very  mount^inoua, 
aapeoially  on  the  south  aide.  The  voloanio  peaks  ar«.  as 
diventfied  in  their  ahapea  aa  they  are  numarou*,  baing  oon* 
icai,  denticulated,  and  needle-pointed,  Haii^  from,  one  to 
filtoen  hundred  foet.  While  imagination  generally  over- 
dmwa  her  pioturea,  nature  tMa  haa  fiimiahed  abundant 
scope  for  all  her  powera.  ^. ' 


mmm 


•VMPMM 


144 

A  littl*  abov*  ih*  CukmIm,  upon  Um  north  Aon,  ihmm 
iaawnall  vi)l«f0of(ltieDoolii.  ThtMW  IndfauM  •!•  iH«  only 
real  FUtjH>«da  aad  N«>x  r«rote,  or  (H«ro(Nl  imms,  I  hare 
tMtnd.  TiMry  bo<h  flattan  thair  iMada  aiMt  |>iara«  thair 
Roaea.  Th«  flattening  of  thair  haada  ia  not  ao  f  iwU  a  da. 
(brmity  aa  la  gnnarally  auppoaad.  Prom  a  litil«  abova  tha  , 
•yaa  to  tha  b|i«x  or  onmn  of  tha  haad,  thare  ia  a  dapraaaiaa, 
but  not  grncrally  in  adnit  pannna  very  notioaabla.  Tha 
piaroing  of  tha  noae  ia  a  grratar  daftmnity,  and  it  duoa  by 
Inaiirting  two  amali  tapering  whila  ahalla,  aUrat  two  inohaa 
kmg,  thmugh  the  ioirer  pan  of  the  eartllaginosa  dirision  of 
tha  noae.  llieae  ahella  »ni  of  tha  genua  €h$^tkim,  thay 
inhabit  tha  Piaoifle  diore,  and  are  an  article  of  tmAo  aaMOf 
tha  aativaa.  I  oailad  at  thia  village  to  obtain  man  to  emrtf 
aqr  eanoe  by  fhe  portage  of  the  Chaeadea.  They  wiidtadlo 
ei^age  in  trade  with  m*>  in  aeTem!  aftielea  of  ntmll  value, 
wMmh  I  daalinad,  inforaWing  them  that  my  boatneaa  w«a  of 
a  dUhrant  n^ure.  While  detaimd)  tha  du^ghlar  of  tha 
iMef,  iuioiAilly  decked  out  in  ornaments,  and  in  all  her 
pfide  and  native  ha^htineaa,  walked  to  and  IVo  to  exhib^ 
10  tha  beet  advantage,  hn  ilne,  areot,  and  atataly  pafMa. 

AHar  oonaidemble  dv  lay,  I  obtained  fcur  Indiana  to  Mny 
tha  canoe  about  me  hundred  rada  by  tha  prittoi|p«l  vafMa, 
or  flilla,  lor  whioh  1  gave  tneh  flva  ehargee  of  powder  and 
bnlla ;  e.ad  an  additional  reward  to  eae  to  carry  a  part  of 
my  baggage  a  mile  and  a  half  paat  tfM  moat  dangeitma 
rafMa,  to  a  baain  jnat  below  anotfier  rapid,  formed  Iq^* 
ittga  rock*  conffayng  the  river  to  •  very  nnrrow  paaaaga, 
thro^  which  it  mahea  wif^  great  Impetncahy.  My  Indian 
ran  tlia  cuwe  over  tMe  raj^.  I  waa  moeh  eooocmed  ft>r 
thair  aafety  ;  birt  they  ehoaa%>  do  it.  Two  yanva  befnf , 
tlie  men  of  the  Hitdaon  Bay  Coaapany  torMk4  aevanri 


lOftli  ilMnWf  thcrv 
Ikuw  •!•  iH«  oqIt 
hkA  noMs,  I  hatA 
Mi  pt»n»  tMt 
M  to  f  NNU  «  dr- 
k  iittl«  tAforti  tho 
B  is  «  deprMrioe, 

MltiOMlbl«.      Th« 

,  and  k  dutM  ly 
•Iwut  two  inohM 
l^inosa  dirfdon  ?>f 
I  ^Mrta^teiii,  tiMty 
loftrafloanwap 
tfaa  nMn  to  Mrr^ 
The7  wkdiadto 
lof  amnlt  valnv, 

buniiMM  waui  of 
du^gMtr  of  tfM 
^  mm!  {a  til  her 
id  fWtfiaxhiMt, 
itaUily  pwrsoa. 

ladhuMtOMny 

w  of  poird«r  and 
>  oarrr  a  part  of 
■MNrt  daag«roa> 
apid,  fonofld  by 
iMirrow  |MMaB|[a« 
ity.  MyladJaM 
eh  cooocnrad  R>r 
wo  jmn  be#»f, 
«or4ttk4  •etanl 


ntsiAii  OTsmis  fKAAi.  mH 

IwMeaax  down  thk  mpM^— fian  of  Um  xnen  golaff  in  iIm 
boaiM,  and  part  on  tlw  tkon  e»dtiling  The  ropa  of  ma 
brokfl,  MMJ  iho  battoau,  in  apito  of  Um>  ofibrta  of  tho  men  in 
M,  waa  hurriad  out  into  tha  aurging  and  whirling  wavaa 
among  tha  rodka— oapaiiad  and  all  war*  ioat. 

I  walked  about  four  miles,  until  I  had  paaaad  all  Iha  rap. 
ida  of  any  speoial  danger.  About  titrea-fourtka  of  a  mil* 
bak>w  iha  uppermoat  oaaoa4i«,  following  an  Indian  path,  I 
oama  U>  a  piaaaant  riaa  of  ground,  upon  which  ware  aavatal 
houaea  of  a  viilaga,  inhabited  only  in  time  <  f  takini^aalmon. 
Thay  wan  both  larger  and  far  better  conwtnicted  than  any  I 
had  aaan  iu  any  Indian  country.  They  were  about  Mxty  tt^ 
long,  and  thirty-iva  witle,  tha  (Vama-work  very  well  aos- 
■miotad  and  f«Jvof«d  with  aplit  plaoka  and  oadajr  bark.  A 
UttU  back  of  theae  houaea  a  email  beautiAil  lake  apraada  it- 
aalf  mit,  on  the  aurfaoe  of  which  aome  rbaena  of  wild  duoka 
ware  enjoying  the  quietneaa  of  ita  aolltuda.  Am  I  oontiaued 
down  tha  Indian  path,  at  no  great  diatanoa  Aimi  th<«  Tillaga, 
I  came  to  aavaral  di^poeitoriee  of  their  dead.  They  w«r« 
built  of  plank  aplit  from  balaara  Ar  and  oadar,  about  eight 
feet  kmg,  ail  wide,  ami  five  high,  ind  wall  covered.  At 
oaa  and  ia  what  mny  be  oiUlad  a  door,  upon  wMeh  M« 
paiatiafa  of  vtrioua  davioaa,  whtoh  do  not  appaar  (o  ha  d»> 
•ignad  for  any  otfMNrpurpoae  than  io  I- ornament.  SonMhad 
paintfaif  upon  tha  aidaa  aa  wall  a«  upon  the  doora.  I  had 
with  ma  two  Indiana  who  paid  no  partienkr  attantioo  lo 
tham,  naon  than  wa  ahould  in  paaaing  a  bwying  graoitd 
llbay  puiated  ma  to  them,  and  made  a  abort,  aoleraa  pauaa, 
witiMNtt  aaiy  aotiona  whiofa  would  iadioato  their  p«  ing  bmn 
RWfa  to  *M  pkuniaa  or  any  other  obj««ot.  T^  •^  number  oi 
tbasa  depoaitiHiaa  I  did  not  aaoertain,  aa  many  of  than  wan 
•0  flur  daoayad,  aa  to  ba  hardly  diatinguiabable  ;  but  diara 


mm 


MUlVTtfVl  WATnTALt. 


wwr*  eif hi  <nr  iMi  In  Rood  otindltton.  Batow  thb  w 
MTwnil  iMOMa  <tf  hM  nwfnhuda  tUn  ttwM  abov«  ;  and 
wMl#»  Um  floofi  of  thorn  wew  on  «  l«wl  with  iM  mtHket^ 
nf  th*»  fmund,  th«M  w«ri  ronk  tboot  four  ftwt  b«low,  ud 
the  walla  roM  only  about  thrm  ftwt  ahov*  (h«  gnwari.  It 
would  aMin  that  th«aa  w«r«  dmignfld  (br  wtntor  haMtatkina, 
kiH  at  thto  tlma  their  oocu]»nta  wara  M  afawat.  At  th(> 
diilan««t  of  ftfiir  milaa  bolow  thfl  main  cataract,  t^  ooan- 
try,  on  tha  north  dflm,  iprwida  out  Into  %  l«rf«l  ftirtlla  plahi. 
whieh  nMF  tha  rirar  b  a  prairk,  a  little  diatMioe  bwik 
•orarad  wMi  dbniMi  fermli ;  whiU  on  thi;  iouth  aide  of  th«« 
rlmr  h  la  vary  mountalnoua. 

Toward  tha  lower  part  of  Brant  island  I  ra-ambarind. 
and  wa  proeaadad  a  fcw  milea  Airther  i!  ^noampad  balow 
PIHar  rook,  ©far  agabial  an  eJrtraor4iii«ry  oawada  of  water 
wMeh  daaoaadi  rtw  mountain  from  thm  aooth.  nitar  roek 
ia  of  hanahie  twmaHon,  ritnatad  on  tha  north  lida  of  tha 
itmt,  a  fcw  rwJa  from  tha  ahore,  on  a  narrow  atrip  of  rich 
boft(Mn.i«Ml,  wholly  ko\t^,  riaing  ftva  himdrad  ftat  on 
tha  rivwr  ikhi  parpaadioiitar,  aad  en  dia  odwn  iwarty  ae. 
Upon  alt«  axoapl  tha  rirar  idde,  there  ara  narrow  oAata 
«paa  whleh  grow  aoAie  oedara,  and  alao  a  few  upon  tha 
higbaat  potot.  Tha  htm  in  proportiaii  to  tha  hUgM,  it 
VMpy  aMall,  ghring  Mm  whole  tha  appearance  of  aa  attor. 
nwua  pillar.  .  Thi^  h  ana  of  tha  aataniahiag  wcadara  of 
volaaaia  apawmtoaa. 

Tha  oaaeade  upon  the  mutfi  aido  of  tha  rivar  Ant  alrikai 
tha  view  at  mi  oleration  of  not  leaa  than  a  thooMUid  Aiat ; 
MidbyaaTMraloAetothi^'  ^«ar  deaeea^  io  a  whHe  ftaaAig 
aheai,  at  an  angle  of  rixty  &r  eighty  degraee,  fnaaeatlagtlw 
'  appaaraaee  of  a  heit  aid  vipon  tha  afcte  of  Uia  Aoonlahi. 
In  two  plaoaa  tha  <kBaci«nt  it  p«<ptiiMHoalKr,  tlM  towart  h 


r  thkw 
NM  9!bOfi  nd 
*{th  lH«  rariuw) 
knH  below,  Mid 
Am  gfouari.  It 
ntor  li«b<t«tkiM, 
bwnt.  At  thf 
irao^,  the  ooan- 
rnl  (Siftile  plain. 
9  diaunoe  bwik 
outh  flfafe  of  t)n> 

I  I  K-WRM rkwl , 
iiMunfwd  Mow 
D«wmil«ofw«tor 
ith.  flltsr  roek 
KMrth  M0  of  tb* 
row  tfrip  of  rfoh 
himdrMi  %tn  on 
otlwni  OMriy  M. 

9  BklTOW   CMMta 

•  ibw  upon  tit* 
to  the  IM1.4M,  {• 
■ao«  of  aa  mmmt 
hii^  woadm  of 

ri v«r  Ant  ilrikM 
«  thouMUidftNM; 
lAwhitolMnltag 
M,  pifmmtng  th> 
of  tlM  nmmaria. 


ip«Mes**8<f#**'* 


MM 


enriusATMx 


(M^ 


w 


yrotebly  not  Imi  Omb  two  huodnd  ^t.  aod  Ufura  iW 
«r««in  r««ch«a  tha  bottom,  it  m  duHNfMUod  iuti>  aprky  and 
diMp|M•^^  uaUl  jrou  mm  it  •gain  oolliwtiog  iuntr  a\  iIm 
Ink  of  tlM  mountaia,  and  allar  wvndioK  >>■  w*y  •  "li^rt  di*. 
taiKM,  it  uaiiM  with  tha  Columbia.  Tba  whal«  «wm,  ooMi 
lining  »hf»  rugg«<diMMH  and  wildn«M  of  natura'a  moat  ronuw. 
tie  forow,  with  ita  moat  magiii^oaat,  Sllod  my  mind  with 
admiration  both  of  the  woik  and  it*  Author. 

Od  the  morning  of  the  lAth,  I  aroae  before  day,  called 
my  lodiana,  and  aa  mooii  aa  any  li^jht  appeamd,  we  agaia 
lauoohed  into  the  broad  river,  in  our  frail  uanoe.  Par 
abr>ut  ten  milea,  the  aurrounding  oouotry  waa  mouatainoua, 
(bnnlag  bold  ahorea,  after  whioh  the  mountaiiia  reoede, 
and  the  river  spread*  out  in  auma  piaooa  Dram  <me  to  thr«« 
sailee  wide,  and  an  exteoaive  rogi<Mi  around  preaapta  the 
•ppearaooe  of  a  rioh  aoil  well  adapted  to  agrioultur*. 
Thar*  are  aome  doe  prairiea,  but  the  greataat  part  ia 
thiokly  wooded.  In  thia  part  of  the  river  are  OMoy  Atr. 
tile  ialanda,  aome  of  whioh  are  large ;  the  current  roovea 
on  gently,  and  the  whole  aoenory  around  (■  fiuwinating. 
Aa  I  deaoended  towania  the  Pauifio  ocean,  water  fowl,  auoh 
aa  faaaa,  arnwa,  and  a  very  great  variety  of  duoke,  b^^an 
to  multiply ;  alao  every  now  and  then  aeala  made  their 
appaaranoa,  ao  that  I  bcoame  cheered  with  the  inoreaaing 
exhUiitiona  of  animated  nature,  greater  than  i  had  nitneai 
od  aiaoe  leaving  the  buflalo  country.  Unexpectedly,  about 
tha  mkklle  <^  the  day,  on  the  north  ahore  in  a  thiok  gioira 
of  laiga  fin,  I  aaw  two  white  nuui,  With  a  yoke  of  ozan, 
drawing  Iqga  for  sawing.  I  hailed  them,  and  enquind  of 
theiR  the  diatairae  to  Fort  Vanoouver.  They  r^liad, 
"<^y  seven  miles  around  yonder  point,  down  that  prai- 
rie."   Boon  we  oame  to  a  large  saw-mill,  around  whioh 


] 


V 


ffW 


mmm 


mm 


IM 


FBOTtMRICIf 


wen  Urge  pile*  of  lumber  end  Mveral  oottagee.  Thie 
looked  like  busiiieee  upon  a  much  larger  aoile  than  I  had 
expected.  I  called  a  short  time  a^  thia  eetablMuoaent, 
where  I  found  eereral  Scotch  laboren  belonging  to  the 
Hud«»  Bay  Company,  with  their  Indian  fiusiiliea.  Al. 
though  it  waa  then  about  noon,  they  oflfered  me  a  break' 
feat  of  pea*  and  fieh,  Uking  it  for  granted  that  men  who 
travel  these  weetem  regions,  eat  only  when  they  can  get 
an  opportunity.  At  two  in  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at 
Port  Vancouver,  and  never  did  I  feel  mora  joyfbl  to  set 
my  feet  on  ritora,  when  I  expected  to  find  a  bosj^tablo 
people  and  the  oomfbrts  of  life.  Doot.  J.  McLaughlin,  a 
chief  factor  and  the  superintendMit  of  this  fort,  and  of  the 
basing  of  the  Company  west  of  the  Hooky  Mountaiaa, 
received  me  with  many  exprasions  of  kindoesa,  and  invited 
ni9  to  make  his  residence  my  home  for  the  winter,  and  as 
lOMg  as  it  would  suit  my  conveniraoe.  Never  could  podi 
aa  invitation  be  mora  thankfully  received.  ii't*^*,* 

'  It  was  now  seven  months  and  two  days  ainoe  I  left  My 
homa,  and  during  diat  time,  excepting  a  few  delays,  I  hid 
baen  oinstantly  j()umeyihg,  and  the  last  fiily-six  days,  with 
Indians  only.  I  felt  that  I  had  graat  reason  for  gfatltiidl 
to  Clod  for  his  meratfbl  providences  toward  me,  in  defind- 
ing<and  so  providing  for  me,  that  1  had  not  greatly  tmftrti 
a  ^le  day  for  the  Want  of  food.  For  months  I  hsid  no 
bread  nor  scarcely  any  vegetables,  and  I  often  feU^diat  a 
ohai^  and  a  variety  would  have  been  agreeable,  but  in  no 
ibslance  did  I  nffw,  nor  in  any  case  was  I  brought  to  the 
naoeanty  of  eating  iog*  or  hortejteth.  In  every  exfgandy 
BomeUiing  wholesonM  and  palatable  was  provided. 


-  ■0?^*:'''f0^- 


-nii*#^ 


mum 


m 


rmm' 


.u<«iniiM»ll 


mmmm 


oottagM.  This 
aoals  than  I  had 
I  eflUbiidun«nt, 
^longing  to  the 
I  jAuniliM.  AK 
red  me  «  bf«ttk- 
I  thftt  men  who 
en  they  can  get 
I,  we  arrived  at 
>M  joyAil  to  wt 
Ind  a  boefrftable 
,  McLaughlin,  a 

I  fort,  and  of  the 
Boky  Mountaiaa, 
nen,  and  invited 
n  winter,  and  as 
fever  could  pndi 

•inoe  I  left  ni^ 
»w  delaya,  I  hid 
^■•ix  days,  with 
KMi  forgfaiittldi 
rd  me,  in  deftnd- 
t  greatly  salbwl 
oobnths  I  hid  no 
oftto  feU^diai  a 
leeable,  but  In  nti 

I I  brought  to  tlM 
I  every  tidguky 
irovided. 


roBT  TAMcoirvn. 


140 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DaMriptton  of  Fort  yatieoaTefxHlepartui  t;  for  Fort  G««rf«  and  mootk 
of  tlM  Columbia— moatlM  of  Um  MuIUioBMli— Wippatoo  ialaii4— 
Ma/  Daerc — Coflln  rook — Cowalita  river — Indian  friandahip — fk- 
cifie  ocoan — Graj'a  bay — Aatoria. 

FoBT  Vancouver  is  situated  on  the  corUi  ride  of  the  Co- 
lumbia river,  about  sixty  rods  from  the  shore,  upon  a  prairie 
of  some  few  hundred  acres,  surrounded  with  dense  woods. 
The  country  around,  for  a  great  distance,  is  gMterally  level 
and  of  good  soil,  covered  with  heavy  fc-vats,  excepting 
some  prairies  interqiersed,  and  has  a  pleasant  aspect.  It 
is  in  north  latitude  45<>  87',  and  longitude  122*>  SO*,  weet 
ftom  Greenwich— one  hundred  miles  front  the  Padfie 
ocean.  The  enclosure  is  strongly  stoocaded,  thirty-seven 
rods  long,  and  eighteen  rods  wide,  fkoing  the  south.  There 
are  about  <MM  hundred  white  persons  belonging  to  this  ee- 
tablishniMit,  and  an  Indian  population  of  three  hundred  In 
•  small  compass  oont^foous..  There  are  tight  substantial 
buildings  within  the  enoksure,  and  a  great  nnndwr  of 
small  ooee  without. 

October  ITA.    After  a  night's  rest  in  fliis  fort,  I  leftifor 

Port  Oeoige,  situated  nlnety^me  miles  below,  near  the  ooMk 

flueaoe  of  tiie  Columlria  with  the  Paoiilo,  known  in  jhe 

United  States  by  the  name  of  Astoria.    I  took  diis  eariy 

depasture  that  I  might  virit  the  lower  part  of  the  river  and 

theaea  coast,  and  return  before  die  rainy  eeaaon  riwuM 

commence ;  and  also  to  avail  myself  of  a  passage  In  the 

May  Daore,  from  Boeton,  Capt.  Lambert,  a  brig  belonging 

14 


•  ■ 


•  '  1 


npMMMwnpi 


mmmmmmmmmmmiifimmiffii>i 


\m 


WAfTATCO  msjMn. 


feyS- 


to  CvfUin  Wysth  and  Company,  whioh  wm  lying  twsnty. 
thrae  milM  below,  at  the  loweaMpmuth  of  the  Multnomah. 
Mr.  J.  K.  TownMnd,  an  ornithologiat  from  Philadelphia, 
aooompaniedmetothebrig.  Our  canoe  wae  large  and  pro- 
pelled by  Sandwich  lalanden,  of  whom  there  are  many 
in  thie  country,  who  have  come  here  aa  Mdlon  and  laborers. 
Five  milea  below  the  fort,  we  paeeed  the  main  branch  of  the 
Multnomah.  It  ia  a  large  river,  coming  from  the  eouth,  and 
ia  divided  by  islanda  into  four  branches  at  its  confluence 
with  the  OolumUa.  Here  oommenoes  the  WIppatoo  island, 
ao  called  from  a  nutritive  root  found  in  the  small  lakes 
in  the  interior,  whioh  is  much  sought  for  by  Indians  as 
M  Mtlole  of  food.  This  island  is  about  eighteen  ndles 
long,  and  five  mUes  wide,  formed  hy  a  part  of  the  Multao^ 
«nah,  hnadiing  off  about  sis  miles  up  the  main  river,  rac- 
■iif  iM  a  westerly  and  north-weateriy  diMctico,  and  uoi. 
tim  with  the  Oolumbia  eightseo  milea  below  tlM  main 
haMKh.  The  hranoh  which  flows  around  and  formsthe 
talMd,  is  about  fAeen  roda^wklo.  and  of  auiioiant  4|pth  for 
«BMdl  abiniiag  most  of  Ae  year.  It  was  upon  this  island 
tiM  MidlMMMih  Indians  fomerly  lesidod,  but  they  have 
%'iwww  me  a  t)Nibe  axtinot.  Hw  tauad  te  very  fenfl^  «■! 
iMal  at  H>  soAoiently  high  to  ho  itee  flon  faijury  by  the 
Jimo  freshet.  Some  parts  of  tt  are  prairie,  but  die  giM$Mt 
pfiH  is  w«ll  wooded  with  oak,  ash,  balsam  fix,  and  tiho  epe. 
«iBe  of  psffaur  often  oallod  bakn  of  Gilea^  and  hf  awat 
tihvolem,  ootton-wood.  At  Oo  aoadi.west  of  iliis  idaad^ 
llMto  is  a  riiBge  of  mountains  wbiek  render  a  spaoe  of  tfio 
Mwntry  brokM,  but  beyond  dMoe,  it  is  said  by  InintMa,  4ttt 
diiMW  is  an  estendve  vall  -y  well  adapted  to  agiicuUHm. 

We  arrived  at  tiie  landing  place  of  Ae  May  Dftoio,  at 
five  o'olook  ia  the  afternoon,  and  wcro  politely  roodived  on 


I 


m 


mm 


J. 


mmfi^ 


rtM  lying  twsnty- 
the  Multnomah, 
xn  Philadelphia, 
raa  large  and  pro- 
there  are  many 
Ion  and  laboran. 
tain  bnnoh  of  the 
om  the  aoath,  and 
at  its  confluence 
WIppatoo  ialand, 
the  small  lake* 
nr  by  Indians  as 
It  eighteen  ndles 
rtoftbe  MultaiK 
main  river,  roe- 
(raetioo,  and  uai* 
below  tlM  nwia 
id  and  formsthe 
Hffioiantdkipthlbr 
upon  this  ialwM 
,  bat  tiiey  have 
vary  fertB«k«ai 
m  injury  bf  Iha 
»,  but  dM  glMSM 
>fiivandte«pe< 
wif  mad  if  Most 
at  of  dii*  idaad^ 
sr  a  spaoe  of  tfM 
lbyiniBt*ia,4wt 
toagiiettUHm. 
e  May  DftON,at 
Utely  nodlved  on 


lillPiPMMNIIM 


nil 


liPMIIIIPii 


tut  BAffiU. 


Ml 


board  by  Capt.  Lambert.    The  brig  was  mooted  aloagaide 
a  natural  wharf  of  basalt^i 

Sabbath,  October  18th.  Part  of  the  day  I  retired  to  a 
■mall  prairie  baok  from  the  river,  to  be  free  from  the  noise 
of  labor  in  which  tiie  men  were  engaged  in  preparing  for 
their  voyage ;  and  part  of  it  I  passed  in  tbe  state  room 
which  was  assigned  me.  There  is  much  reason  to  lament 
the  entire  disregard  maniiested  by  many  towards  Ood's 
holy  Sabbath.  His  justice  will  not  always  be  deferred. 
Those  who  will  not  submit  to  divine  authority,  roust  reap 
the  fruit  of  theii  disobedience.  None  can  slight  and  abuse 
the  meroy  of  Qod  with  impunity. 

Mwday,  liMh.    The  Wg  foil  down  the  river  with  the 
tide,  about  three  miles,  but  for  the  want  of  wind  aaoborad. 
In  the  afternoon,  I  went  <m  shore  for  ezerdae,  taking  with 
me  a  kaitaka,  that  is,  a  Sandwich  islander,  for  assistanoe  ia 
any  danger.    I  made  a  long  ezoursion  through  woods  and 
over  prairies,  and  found  the  country  pleasant  and  feitilt. 
The  grass  on  the  i»airiee  was  gseen,  and  might  fiimiall 
subeistenoe.  for  hMds  of  cattle.    When  will  this  immenaely 
eitended  and  fertile  country  be  brouglu  under  cultivation, 
and  be  filled  with  an  iaduatrioas  population  ?    From  Hum 
iiamnmorial,  the  natives  have  not  stretched  forth  a  hand  to 
tUl  the  grfrcml,  nor  made  an  effi>rt  to  cause  the  earth  to 
yield  a  single  aiiinle  of  produce,  more  than  ^rings  Uf 
spontaneously ;  nor  w^  they,  until  their  minds  are  enUf^ 
tened  by  divine  truth.    No  philanthropist,  who  is  not  under 
the  influence  of  Christian  prin^^iples,  will  ever  engage  in 
the  eelf-denying  work   of  enligiitening  their  minds,  aai. 
arousing  them  from  th*ir  indolenoe.    As  on  our  £roBtieM(^ 
so  on  tfwse  western  shores,  the  work  n{  destruotkn,  intrqlM 
duoed  by  those  who  would  be  called  the  friend*  of  man,  k 


r 


WW 


mmmm. 


Dxxi  XKLsm-^^nnm  bock. 

going  fbnrard.  The  IimUm*  in  this  lower  oountry,  thftt  is, 
below  tho  CMoadee,  an  only  tho  r«imMiiitf  of  once  numer- 
00*  and  power  Ail  nations. 

The  evening  was  clear  And  pleasant,  which  gaTe  us  m> 
opportit^aty  to  see  the  oomctt  which  was  observed  by  Hal> 
lay  in  the  year  1683,  and  which  was  seen  again  in  1799, 
and  now  in  1685,  protring  its  tikiw  of  revoltitkon  to  be  about 
seventy-six  and  a  half  years.  Its  train  t/t  light  was  vary 
perceptible  and  about  twelve  degrMs  in  length. 

We  had  a  fevorable  wind  on  the  iMhh,  which,  with  tba 
current  of  the  river,  enabled  us  to  make  good  progress  on 
our  way.  Anwng  the  many  islands,  with  which  the  lower 
part  of  dus  river  abounds,  Deer  Islaiul,  thirty-three  miles 
below  Fort  Vancouver,  is  worthy  of  notioe.  It  is  large,  and 
while  it  is  suflkiently  wooded  along  the  shores,  the  interior 
is  chiefly  a  prairie  covered  with  an  exuberant  growth  of 
graai  and  vhtea  of  diflbrent  kinds,  exoeiHing  the  grape,  of 
which  there  is  no  indigenous  species  west  of  the  Rooky 
Mountains.  In  the  iutarior  of  this  island  there  are  setieral 
small  lakes,  the  resort  of  swans,  geese  and  ducks.  TUa 
island  was  formerly  the  residence'  of  many  Indians,  but  they 
are  gmie,  and  nothing  is  left  except  the  remains  of  a  lai|p» 
village. 

Among  86me  interesting  islands  of  bualt,  there  is  MM 
called  Coffin  Rook,  twenty-three  miles  below  Deer  island, 
situated  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  rising  ten  or  fifteen  feet 
above  high  freshet  water.  It  is  almost  eutirely  covtved 
with  canoes,  in  which  the  dead  are  deposited,  which  cireum- 
stance  gives  it  its  name.  In  the  seotkm  of  oountry  ftfom 
^kf^HHan  island  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  the  Indians,  instead 
of  oommittfaig  the  dead  to  die  earth,  deposit  thnrn  in  ca- 
noes, and  these  are  placed  in  such  situations  as  are  moat 


llpgllpK^ 


i^PMH" 


CAPT.   LAMBERT  AHO  TSS  8XILL00T  CHIir. 


l&S 


Mintry,  that  1% 
if  once  nuHMr- 

ih  f|«Te  vm  mii 
»rved  by  HftI* 
gain  in  1709, 
on  to  be  »*mW 
ight  WM  vefy 
th. 

rhich,  with  tte' 
id  progrew  oa 
hioh  tlie  lower 
ty-tbree  mUM 
h  is  Urge,  wd 
M,  the  interior 
mnt  growth  of 

the  grape,  of 
of  the  Itookf^^ 
ire  an  se«er«l 

ducks.  Tilt* 
dians,  but  they 
line  of  a  lai|[» 

t,  there  is  otte 
r  Deer  island, 
I 'or  fifteen  feet 
tirely  oovtied 
which  oireunio 
'  country  ftfom 
ndians,  instead 
it  thMta  in  oa- 


secure  from  beasts  of  prey ;  upon  such  precipices  as  this 
island,  upon  branches  of  trees,  or  upon  scaflblds  made  for 
the  purpose.  Thebodlesof  the  dead  are  oorered  with  mats, 
and  split  planks  ars  placed  over  them.  The  head  of  the 
canoe  is  a  lltUe  raised,  and  at  the  ibot  there  is  a  hole  made 
tor  water  to  escape. 

A,  few  miles  below  Coffin  island,  the  Cowalitz,  a  riter 
ooming  from  the  north-eaat,  flows  into  the  Columbia,  which 
is  About  thirty  rods  wide,  deep,  and  navigable  fbr  boats  a 
▼eiy  ooDsiderable  distance.  The  country  up  this  river  is 
said  to  equal,  hi  richness  of  soil,  any  part  of  the  Oregon 
Territory,  and  to  be  so  diversified  with  woods  and  prairies^ 
that  the  farmer  oould  at  once  reap  the  fruits  of  his  labor. 

On  aooouni  sf  numerous  si>jad-ban  and  windings  of  tt« 
navigable  channel,  we  anchorad-  fi>i!  th*  night.  The  evening 
was  cloudy,  and  there  was  the  appearanoe  of  m  gathering 
btonn ;  but  we  were  so  surrounded' with  high  hiHa,  that  tfie 
ritnation  was  considered  safe. 

TThe  wind,  on  the  91st,  was  light,  and  our  progress,  Uier*^ 
fore  was  riow.  This  section  of  the  country  k  raonntaii^ 
00%  the  ranges  running  nearly  flrom  the  souA-east  to  Ae 
north-west,  and  covered  with  a  verf  dense  and  heavy 
growth  of  wood,  mostly  fir  and  oak.  A  chief  of  thejlkll. 
loots  with  a  few  of  his  people  came  on  board.  He  was  very 
talkative  and  sportive.  When  he  was  about  to  leave,  he 
told  Capt  L.  that  as  they  hftd'  been  good  friend,  and  were 
now  about  to  separate,  he  wished  *  present.  Ckpt.  L.  told 
his  steward  to  give  him  a.  shirt  The  chief  tooK  it  and 
pal  it  on,  and  dien  said^  *'  how  much  better  wouWa  new  pair 
of  pantaloons  look  with  thto  shirt '^  The  oaptAin  ordered 
him  the  atfiole  asked  for.    Now,  said  the  chief,  "a  veet 

» 

would  become  me,  and  increass  my  influence  with  my  peo- 

14* 


•<l 


immm 


mm 


Wi 


mm 


nUJM  BOCC. 


1 


pit."  ThbWMalao  given.  Thm  he  aikkd,  "  well,  7V«,* 
I  euppoM  we  thai  I  not  tee  each  other  tgain,  can  you  nee  me 
go  away  without  a  clean  blanket,  which  would  make  me  a 
Aill  dreia."  The  oai^ain  answerH,  "  go  about  your  buci- 
neaa ;  for  there  i«  no  end  to  your  aaking  eo  long  aa  I  oon- 
tinut)  to  give."  Then  the  chief  brought  ibrwaird  a  little  aon, 
and  wld,  "  he  is  a  good  boy ;  will  you  not  make  him  a  pres- 
ent t"  Capt.  L.  gave  him  a  few  small  articles,  and  they 
went  away  rejoicing  over  the  presents  which  they  had  re- 
ceived, instead  of  regretting  the  departure  of  the  May  Da- 
or».  We  paescd  to-day  Pillar  rock,  which  stands  in  the 
river,  isolated,  roose  than  half  a  mile  from  the  north  shore, 
composed  of  basalt,  and  is  about  forty  feet  high  and  fifteen 
In  diameter.    We  anchored  a  few  miles  below. 

On  the  morning  of  the  32d,  we  waited  for  a  favorable 
tide  until  nine  o'clock,  when  we  got  under  way  with  a  brisk 
wind  firom  the  east.  Here  the  river  begins  to  spread  out 
into  a  bay,  but  owing  to  many  shoals,  the  navigati<»  is 
diffiouU.  We  ran  aground,  but  the  increase  of  the  tide  set 
us  afloat  again,  and  soon  the  great  Paoifto  ocean  opened  to 
007  view.  This  boundary  of  the  "  far  west"  was  to  me  an 
objeot  of  great  interest ;  and  when  I  looked  upon  the  dark 
soiling  waves,  and  reflooted  upon  the  vast  expanse  of  five 
thousand  miles,  without  an  intervening  island  until  yau  ar- 
rive at  the  Japan  coast,  a  stretch  of  thought  w«£  required, 
like  oontemplatiag  infinity.  Likajtia  \*i^Mog  lines  of 
peropeotive,  so  is  oontemplatma  lost  in  this  e^ttent  of  ocean. 

As  we  proceeded  on  oir  way,  we  left  Gray's  bay  at  the 
right,  extending  inland  tv>  ijic  aorth  some  few  miles,  in  which 
en  a. voyage  of  disoove'T,  the  ship  Columbia  anchored,  and 


t'Chicf,  or  ssatlsBiaa. 


T 


PW"*-!* 


s«n  you  NM  m* 
iild  make  me  » 
tout  your  buci* 
long  as  I  con- 
a'.'d  a  little  son. 
tke  him  a  pres- 
ides, and  they 
li  they  had  re- 
)f  the  May  Da- 
1  stands  in  tha 
the  north  short, 
liigh  and  fifteen 
low. 

for  a  favorable 
iray  with  a  brisk 
I  to  spread  out 
e  navigati<m  is 
m  of  the  tide  set 
)o«an  opened  to 
i"  was  to  Bie  an 
I  upon  the  dark 
expanse  of  five 
otd  until  you-  ar- 
\t  w«£  required, 
ajshing  linee  of 
extent  of  ocean, 
ray's  bay  at  the 
'  miles,  in  which 
a  anchored,  and 


* 


mmmmmmfmmmm 


Mi 


aymaaAJJinMw^^ '"*"    ----^^i 


Aimu. 


lU 


from  whose  oommander  the  bay  took  its  name.  Nearly 
opposite  we  passed  Tongue  Point,  which  extends  about  two 
miles  into  the  bay  or  river,  from  the  south.  It  is  consider- 
ably etevated,  rocky,  and  covered  with  woods.  Soon  after 
this,  Astoria  was  an.  ounoed.  My  curiosity  was  excited.  I 
looked,  but  could  not  discover  what  to  all  on  board  was  so 
plainly  seen — I  bUmed  my  powers  of  vision— and  reluo* 
tantly  asked  the  capuin,  whore  is  Astoria  ?  «  Why,"  be 
replied,  "  right  down  there — that  in  Astoria  !"  I  saw  two 
log  cabins,  and  said  within  myself,  is  that  the  fkr- Aimed 
"New  York  of  the  west  ?" 


mmmmm 


IM 


rOKT 


■  l 


CHAPTER  X. 

Dww»p«lwi<rF«rtO»r|»    mmtOndHbu 

<  mma»»ku»u  aoMt-^rvMSM  at  Htuhtf-tooi  ioMtioalbr  a  •!•. 
■ioMij  itolioa  ■PaU«a»d  raiM— dnM  AfMl»-«aMwri«i  ia  • 
wuMM  ioma  Um  toy— ^w  of  lk«  aaMl~4kMl«Pt  st  Om  ralruM 
•r  tto  CM— M>  iMy  WUMmi  m4  A«m— abiy  iMMto—Tw^ali 
«-J»yw»jwi|i  wi«otio«i  waUr  l^l-HM««n  WWmi  Vmmmu 
T*r— tlM  nsard  ladiMa  tbam  tiia  tfMd— ladiu  ktwdaiw. 

WoM  wa  arrived  ia  Um  Knall  bay,  upon,  which  Fort 
OwMf*  (Aatoria)  ii  dtaatMi,  Ckptain  L.  nMumtd  \  boat  to 
mJm  UM  on  Aon,  in  whioh  h*  niia  Mnbarlied  to  pay  hi* 
iMfwota  to  dM  fOTvnwr,  who  hwl  Um  politoniM  to  moet  lu 
•t  Um  landing,  and  iavitod  tn,  wiUi  hmty  woIooqk,  to  hi* 
dwolUng.  Afbr  having  iotoioh~4.g«d  Um  oiMtomary  nUo. 
taUo^  and  mad*  a  thort  itaj.  Um  Miptain  M-ambaskMl  and 
HMdo  hia  way  Ibr  Qipo  INMppointaMat ;  and  Um  wind  aJMl 
tido  biiag  &Torahlo,  ha  paaaad  Um  danganma  bar  wiUMM 
aaf  dalay,  and  ah^pad  hia  oourao  fcr  Boatoa.  Port  Gaoigo 
iaaitm^  1  on  Um  aeuUi  aida  oTUm  bay.taa  milaa  from  Cf 
Diaappointmaat,  ia  wiUiout  anjr  ibrUAoadaaa,  haa  only  tW9 
aniall  boildinga  mada  of  hawad  loga ;  about  two  aona 
olaarxl,  a  part  of  whioh  ia  ouldTatad  wiUi  potatoaa  aad 
gardan  vegatablaa.  -Itiaoeenpiacl  by  twowUtouMnoftha 
Hndaon  Bay  Company,  fer  Um  porpoaa  of  trado  wiUi  ih» 
few  remaining  Indiana  who  naida  about  UMaa  aboiaa. 
Though  Uiia  ia  Um  preauit  ooodMoo  of  Aatoria,  y«t  Um 
tima  muat  eoma,  wheoatUMnMu&of  Uiia  noUa  rlvarthara 
will  ba  a  oommaroial  city,  and  aapaoially  omy  Uiia  ba  as> 


movrm  of  m  oolvmbu. 


187 


ku 

itioa  fcr  a«i». 
■«a«wii«i  la  • 
sttlMMitraaM 
Ml*— Tm^vIb 
i*Fwt  VaMMu 


.  which  Fort 
wi-  \  boot  to 
•dtopojhio 
M  to  moot  US 
looD»s,  to  hi* 
tomoiy  Miltt* 
nbairhod  mmI 
the  wind  oad 
bar  without 
PortGooifo 
•  firoinCope 
M  only  two 
It  two  aoMs 
potatooo  Md 
omanoftho 
do  with  Am 

iria,  7«t  tho 
BrivorthoM 
thia  ba  as* 


pootwl,  aa  thia  bay  aiferda  th«  only  good  harbor  (br  a  loi^ 
diaUnca  on  thia  ooaat.  I  ahould  think  tho  north  aid*  of  tha 
bay,  a  littla  abova  tha  oapa,  adjoining  what  ta  oallad  Ba. 
kar^a  bay,  would  ba  tha  moot  dadrabia  looation  ibr  a  tows, 
aa  that  ia  tha  aafeat  plaoa  l>r  ahipa  to  rido  at  anchor ;  and 
on  that  aida  ofUia  Columbia  bay,  tha  country  ia  mot*  opaa 
and  plaaaant  for  a  oommaroial  town.  On  tha  aouth  aida, 
whara  Aatoria  waa  iooatad,  tha  mountaina  or  high  hiila  oona 
down  vary  near  tha  ahofa,  ara  rocky  and  piaoipitoua,  pia. 
vantiaf  a  aoutham  proapact,  and  in  tha  abort  wintor  daya  of 
a  north  latitude  otiS^  17'  thay  almoat  azoluda  tha  aon. 

A  diflloulty,  of  a  nature  thai  ia  not  eaaily  orerocme,  exiala 
in  lagaid  to  the  naTigation  of  thia  river,  namely,  the  aand. 
bar  at  ita  entrance.    It  la  abent  Ave  milee  acnaa  the  bay 
firom  Cape  DiaappofaitmaBt  out  to  aea.    In  no  part  of  that 
diataooe  ia  the  water  upon  the  bar  over  eight  ikthoma  deep, 
li  one  plaoe  only  ftve,  and  the  channel  ie  only  about  half 
anilewfcle.    And  ao  wide  and  open  ia  the  oeean,  that  thaw 
it  nlwaya  a  heavy  awell,  and  when  the  wind  ie  above  a 
gaoda  biaaM,  there  are  breakera  quhe  aerooa  tha  bar,  ab 
that  thera  ia  no  paMring  it  exoept  when  the  wind  and  tide  an 
both  very  fcvoimbla.    Without  tha  bar  thaia  ia  no  anohoiw 
aga,  and  thaia  have  baea  faMlaaoe%  b  the  whiter  aeaaon,  of^ 
ddpa  laying  off  and  en,  thirty  daya,  waiting  ibr  aa  oppDftn. 
nity  10  paao ;  a  good  pilot  ia  alwaya  needed.    PeritapatheM 
have  been  nMm  litea  loat  hare,  in  proportion  to  the  number 
of  thoae  who  have  entered  tUe  river,  than  in  eirtaring  ilmoat 
anyctherharbor  hi  tha  world.   But  the  oalamiiiee  have  been 
leaaftwiMatftrBOaieyeaiopaatithanlbnnerty;  aadahouU 
a  ^aamboal^  atatkaed  at  tha  oapa,  to  tow  vaaeab  ever, 
whan  bnahtaw  Aall  ha  euik   >atly  multiplied  to  warrant  the 
espenaa,thadelayaaBddai^r»wpuIdbegNadydiadaMMd. 


*.«••■ 


V 


K 


i 


4n 


^ss 


r4>sam8  9»  t»ss. 


Th«  mala  Uy  ia  four  milM  wlO*  at  iIm  mouth  of  tiio 
river,  betwcon  Capo  !)iuppointin«nt  mud  Vaint  Adamai 
estomla  autMii  tntlM  up  tho  riv«r ;  ia  nioa  milaa  wU\m  b*. 
twaao  CiMBuok  bay  on  tha  north  and  YcMing'a  bay  on  tha 
aouth ;  and  tavan  milaa  wida  b«twam  Fort  OaorRa  and 
Chaoook  point.  It  ia  Allad  with  many  aand-ban,  and  ona, 
whioh  ia  oallad  Band  lalaod,  a  liula  within  thn  cap«w, 
only  whao  tha  tida  ia  down,  ia  dangaroua  to  ahipa  when  sal 
in  tha  oharga  of  akilfiii  piloto. 

Tha  aaotion  of  oouotry  about  tha  aaa  ooaat  ia  rough  and 
mmintaiooiia,  and  oovarad  with  tha  noia  haavy  and  daim 
forattpf  any  part  of  Araarioa  of  whkh  1  hava  any  knowl- 
•igt.  Tha  traaa  ara  almoat  all  of  tha  ganua  fimw,  bat  I 
«^w  wxM  of  tha  apaoiaa  oommoniy  CMllad  pina,  any  whaia 
baiow  tha  Ca«)adaa.  Tha  baiMm  fir,  of  <vhkh  thara  aiai 
threa  apaciaa,  oooatituta  tha  graataal  part  of  tha  forKat  traaa. 
Whita  oadar.  apruca,  haniloa,  and  yaw,  ara  intanparaad. 
Thraa  qiaoiaa  ol  oak,  of  which  tha  whita  ia  moM  ( 
pravail  4q  both  wokiaoa;  and  in  aouia  low  battoHi.4a«di» 
the  apaoiaa  of  popUr,  oallad  tha  balm  of  Qilaad,  or  Utiar 
cotton  wood,  pradomiaalaa.  Tha  balaam  fir  growa  rary 
larga ;  not  unfraquantly  four  and  dz  faat  In  «yan«ti«,  «wl 
two  hoaJrad  laat  high.  I  maaaurad  im  wfaieh  w.**  ai^ 
fiMt  in  diatnotar,  and  about  two  kundjrad  and  fifty  fnt  Mgk. 
Aa  I  do  rtn  hnre  intaml  to  antar  upon  tha  dmdfology  of  iMi 
oountiy,  I  omit  fiirthmr  rwnarfca  upon  thUi  aubjeot  for  tb* 
pBMcnt. 

Tha  quality  of  tha  land  ia  good ;  an^^  Mma  traoltof  tJMa 
niounlaiiious,  iron  bound  ooaat  might  eaaLly  ha  braughh  wm 
dar  oultivation.  One  aaatioo  liaa  about  Young'a  bay,  as* 
tending  to  and  about  Point  AdanM.  Thia  would  ha  a  hivttk 
ahta  looatkm  for  a  miaaionary  atetion,  vkeM 


■■r^p: 


mouth  of  tiM 
oinl  AtUow; 
ilM  wiii«  b*. 
I  bmy  on  tiM 
Ooorit*  and 
•n,  uid  MM, 

lip*  when  sol  ^ 

kroufh  mmI 
vy  and  dan* 
•  any  knowl- 
I  pimta,  bat  I 
•,  liuiy  wtMva 
ieh  than  am 
Ml  (orrM  traatr 
intanparwd* 
ioaloomna% 
boltoai.ia«di^ 
ead,or  Utiar 
r  growa  my 
UaoMtor,  MMt 
bh  v.*'!  ei^ 
lAyfcethiik. 
lologyof  Ihb 
ibjeot  fer  tU« 

toaolaof  tfate 
ihraogkiui* 
ng'a  bay,  ax« 
IdfaaafcvQi^ 


ha  had  to  tKa  Clataof  and  KUIamook  fiMliaiia,  who  am  mM 
to  be  nuriMroui 

At  this  Miaaon  of  th«  y«ar,  thera  ara  bat  few  Indiana 
who  raaida  about  tfik  trading  poat,  finding  it  mora  ihr  thair 
ooaafcrt  lo  ratlro  into  tba  IbrMta  during  tha  rainy  aeaaon  of 
iha  winter,  looatii^  thitmaolvM  upon  «nall  prairie*  along 
rivan  and  atraanui,  whera  (Vial  ia  oaaily  obtained,  and  whera 
gam*  ia  fcuod  to  add  lo  thdr  wiatar'a  atook  of  pro. 
vMoM. 

During  my  contiiraanoa  in  thia  plaoa  it  waa  my  Inian- 
tkm  to  oroH  tha  bay  ov«>r  to  ChoMok  point,  and  (Vom 
thanoa  down  to  Capa  Diaappointmant,  which  it  ia  wid  aflbrda 
•  fary  aitaaaiva  and  interaatiag  pcnapent.  But  firam  day 
to  day  it  raiaad,  and  tfia  high  wtida  eraatad  auoh  a  aa« 
la  tha  whola  bay,  that  it  waa  not  lafe  to  aMampt  a  pai^ 

ti4)n  tha  S4th,  Uia  wind  waa  Mgh,  and  tha  waathar  vary 
«noarofi»lahla,  and  fai  tha  aAatnoon  tha  atom  faiareaaad, 
ataiwipanlid  wtMi  anow,  whfioh,  how  w,  maltad  aa  (hat  aa 
it  M.  Hn  aaft  favl  appaarad  to  b«  dannad  by  tha  iavar. 
ity  of  ao  anriy  aa4  aneipaoUNl  a  atorm  of  mmw,  and  rmm 
in  ftimi  Hm  oaaan  in  grant  awnbafa,  flying  and  aotaamin;, 
aa  If  hi  MOMdi  of  •  aafh  Ntvant. 

Tha  atom  baii||  aomowhat  i^mlad,  on  tha  Mth,  M^ 
Doan,  dM  aiiyarintwriMt  of  tha  feit,  and  myaalf,  took  oaf 
riieo  to  go  book  into  ^  wooda  to  hunt  daor  Ibr  asardoa. 
Bntao  ttaaa  waa  tfca  fefoat,  ae  ftllad  and  intorwofviL  uMi 
vaiiona  vlaaa  aad  ahrabhafy,  that  it  waa  naat  to  impoaAlo 
tontoha  any  pfograaa>  and  wo  did  not  paaetrato  Um  woodi 
moro  than  a  laito,  boAiro  wo  gavo  op  tha  objaet,  and  toinad 
our  oowoa  hook,  but  owratum,  with  diilignnt  aflbria,  aoeo. 
piadaoinahottm    If  a  luxuriant  growth  of  tioea  and  ahnib. 


m^^ 


.' 


mmmmfm 


[|qpwaiMMMiiwi«<nMaiHa«MaA< 


!«• 


A  WATIt   nrVMMMk 


Wmr  !■  imUMHiv*  (^  •  riok  «on,  do  |wr(  «r  (Im  worM  OM 
•urpM*  th«  oountry  aRHiiMl  iIi«m  ahora*. 

TiM  raorninf  of  tko  87Ui  wm  ploManl  aad  iavMinfr  for  • 
irMtr  Mottrak)!!  {  y«t  in  vi«w  of  Um  Middoo  ohatifMi  of 
WMUlMr,  whioh  am  oommon  •!  thia  mmmwi  of  the  y«»r,  I 
did  INK  think  bMl  lo  orow  tho  wIkU  b«y,  but  took  four  Clio> 
aook  indiMW,  mmI  «  Iwlf  br««t  nMMd  Thoo.  Piah  Kiplin, 
who  oould  apMk  Bnnlbh,  and  wo  wont  in  •  largo  oaoeo 
down  to  Clatsop  and  Point  Adama,  nino  milna  from  tho  fort. 
TliM«  waa  a  goatio  wind  from  tho  «aa(,  whioh  favorad  boia- 
dag  a  amall  nU.  Tliia  gavo  ua  a  plowMnt  aail  until  it  i». 
nuiiiit  to  th*  rate  of  aight  milaa  aa  hour ;  by  this  tirna  lh« 
wavas  had  baoome  so  high,  and  tha  whilo  oapa  won>  ao  nu. 
Mwvus,  that,  teoM  DOl  aoquaimad  with  nautkwl  advaotttrasi 
iIm  daagar  ia  a  oaaoa  appearsd  imnUiMiit.  Wa  oouM  oaly 
tm  bofora  tha  wiad,  and  »  hoa  wa  wan  mftm  Um  top  of  ooa 
wava,  U  aacMMd  tlw  mm  plmga  wiwld  ba  fhtal.  PaMi 
I  af  BO  avaU  ia  thk  atoiaiioa,  aad  I  th^raiMa  kap*  ap 
I  ooaTaraatka  aa  waa  ealoalalad  to  supfraa^aay  whiali 
•iaaiailMmMsofthanisa.  h  waa  iotoroMiag  to 
M  how  tha  ladkuM  would  taka  tha  wawaa  with  thair  pad. 
dfaa  soaatofovorthaaafotjroflhaaaaua.  Bat  «ur  rapid 
pragiaai  soon  brought  oa  to  tha  ahoia  aaar  Poiat  AdaoM. 
HMa  a  aaw  aad  tiaawpantod  difloufcjr  praaantod  ilaalf,  uai 
thto  waa  tha  alanat  attar  Impimotfaiahllhy  of  a&otiag  a  laa4 
fa^  hi  tha  high  aarf;  bat  B17  •UIM  oMriaara  watohsd  aa 
opportunity  to  shoot  dw  oanoa  forward  aa  fltr  aa  poaribtaott 
a  iawittg  wava,  aad  aa  aooo  aa  k  broka,  thajr  laapad  loto 
tha  wator,  aaiaodtha  oaaoa.  lightaoad  K  ovar  tha  rstoiaing 
8ai9a,aBddrawitHpbafoadtharaaoh(^thawaTaa.  Thio 
oMaagammt  waa  aa  oooular  damoortratioa  of  tha  skill  of 
ladtaaa  oa  dai«anNia  aaaa.     I  took  KipUa  with  aa  a»d 


tmmtmm^it^ltt 


•wxaiMwaWM 


tiMworM 


kd  ktvUiair  <br  » 
dan  ohauifOT  of 
I  of  the  ymt,  I 
I  look  four  CIm- 
M.  Piah  Kiplin. 
I  a  Urn*  OMKW 
M  from  th*  fcrt. 
loh  favorMl  boia- 
I  Mil  unUI  it  i»- 
by  this  Ums  the 
Mfw  wera  ao  nu- 
ioal  MivaatUfM, 
WaoouMoaljr 
m  tlMtopofoiM 
•  fktftl.    P«Mn 

piM^aay  wiUoli 
M  intaraatiag  tB 
I  Willi  tiMir  ftd- 
Butwir  mpM 
r  Point  Adtnw. 
Mtod  ilwir,  Md 
dbotiiig«lMi4> 

ifc*    ■HP  ^W^^^Wi^BW  ^^W 

tliey  kMp«d  lolo 
tr  th»  ranuving 
htwKfm.  TKis 
la  of  ilM  akill  of 
ta  with  BM  Md 


"•r 


|«M  0#  fW   WtLU/UI 


AN1II. 


Ml 


wiklhod  a«v«r»l  nUlas  on  Um  hM«i  w*  amoMH  wndy  bMMih, 
•0  iir  awund  to  tho  aowih,  that  I  had  ft  vtow  «f  Hta  oowt 
north  and  mwith,  aa  &r  »«  th«  ay*  could  m*eM.  Hljth  ha- 
aaltio  rooka,  i«  moat  porta  parpaixMouUr,  lin#d  tb.  •bora*. 
Who  nmttid  tItMa  volcaoio  waila  bMt  that  Betag,  wbo  aa«a 
boonda  to  tb«  aaa,  and  kaa  aaid,  "  bMMrrto  ahalt  thou  eoma. 
but  no  flwUiar,  and  hmn  ahall  thy  proud  wavea  b«  •uv«d." 
Thia  Taut  aipanaa  of  wwan  and  tha«i  atupwidetta  work*  of 
Uod  (ill  tho  mind  with  awa. 

la  lotuming.  I  walkad  awvaral  milaa  boyond  th«  plao# 
wh«r«  wo  landed,  along  iha  ahoro  towarda  Young'*  bay,  aofl 
want  on  board  iha  brig  Lama.  Captain  MoNail,  which  wan 
on  ito  way  up  to  tb«  fort.  In  my  etouraloo  about  Ctataof 
and  Point  Adama,  I  aaw  aoveni  oanowa  containing  th«  daod, 
dopoattad  aa  I  have  almady  doaoribed. 

I  have  mentionad  tho  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colitmtta, 
and  Hand  laland,  aa  dangoroua  to  thooa  who  were  not  wall 
aoqoaiatod  with  tha  antraooo  into  thia  river.  In  tho  yoar 
IMS,  «ho  ahl'p  WllHam  and  Anno  waa  oaal  away  a  littlo 
withhi  the  bar.  All  on  hoard,  twont/-aix  in  number,  wore 
tool,  aad  it  ooald  not  he  aaoertained  what  were  tho  oirotmi. 
atanoea  of  tho  lamontahlo  oataatrophe,  aa  no  one  waa  loft  «o 
tell  the  Btory.  Thai*  wore  oonjeotuno  that  alter  tha  ah^ 
hwS  rwi  agnrand,  Um  IndiaM,  for  Uio  aako  of  plnnder,  kUlod 
tho  eraw.  Thia  b  oaJir  oonjeoltifo  |  bat  it  b  very  atraano 
thai  aeao  onoapod,  aa  Ikey  wore  not  flir  from  tho  ahoro» 
and  tha  beaoh  waa  «andy.  The  Indiam  earriod  off  aad  ••• 
orotcd  whatofBT  of  the  gooda  they  ooald  ilad.  ITio  mm  of 
tha  HadMi)  Bay  Company  aent  to  tho  ohloft  to  doUvor  up 
what  thoy  had  takea  away.  They  aent  to  Dr.  MoLaogMia 
at  Port  VaaootiTfr  two  amall  artiolea  of  no  wloe.  Dr.  M. 
w4th  aa  unad  iMw  wont  down  to  the  Cheaooha  and  do. 

lA 


\ 


) 


i- 


i  r 


V. 


"|>  '■'■"""  ""pniwWIWPPPPIH 


IM 


TW^ 


TaiB8i.i4  Axs  xenquiN. 


I  umpiimmi 


nutdedtsurreaderoftlMgoods.  Hm  ohief;  with  hk  war. 
rioni,  put  hioMMf  in  m  attitude  of  ramtaiMM,  and  firad 
upon  the  men  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Oonqpany.  They  re> 
turned  the  fire  wiih  a  swivel,  not  to  injure  them,  but  to  let 
them  know  with  what  force  they  had  to  oontend,  if  they 
peraiated  in  their  reantance.  On  thia  the  Indiana  all  fled 
into  the  woods.  Dr.  McLaughlin  with  hia  men  landed  and 
aearohed  for  the  gooda,  many  of  whioh-tbey  found.  Whilst 
they  were  searching,  the  chief  waa  aeen  akulldng  and 
drawing  near,  and  cocked  his  pun,  but  before  he  bad  time 
tt>  fire,  one  of  the  white  men  shot  him  down.  None  besides 
W9re  hurt.  This  waa  done,  as  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
•ay,  n(^  so  much  for  saving  the  value  of  the  prop  rty,  as  to 
taaoh  the  Indians  not  to  expect  profit  from  su<;h  disasters, 
and  to  lake  away  temptation  to  murder  white  men  for  the 
sake  of  plunder. 

On  the  SSd  of  May,  1880,  the  ahip  Isabella  was  oaat 
away  upcm  a  8and.bar  projeoting  fronts  Sand  Island,  which 
in  a  little  within  the  mpea-  As  soon  aa  she  struck,  the  men 
all  deserted  her,  and  wiUiout  stopping  at  Fort  Oeorgev  nmde 
thair  way  to  Fort  Vancouver.  It  is  thought,  that  if  they 
had  remained  on  board  and  waited  the  tide,  she  Biigbl  ha.f» 
bean  preserved.    The  cargo  waa  moatly  eaved.      ^  "^ 

la  1811,  the  Tonquin,  sent  out  from  New  York  by  Mr. 

Aator,  to  form  a  fur  trading  eatahtiabmant  at  or  aaar^ba 

jUrirath  of  tlua  river,  loat  eight  men  in  eroaaing  the  bar. 

1|ha  calamity  resulted  fram  the  ignManoe  of  Oaptnte  tham 

nCthe  dangera,  and  hia  great  want  o>f  pwdenoe. 

About  thirty  miles  south  of  thia  river,  aM  Ae  ramaias  of 
ftalOpsuB^not  fiir  from  die  shonk  It  is  not  known  by 
whom. she  was  owned,  nor  froin^^at  P*%|rf  ^  world  ska 
oama,  nor^when  east  away.    t?he  IndbMi  fr»|Qeatly  get 


iiii»i%iiMlilihtii«riiniiiiiiiiiriii-«»iOTii>iiri"[iriilltflir«liiiM^ 


i»*JlHI 


njii— iiiiiimmi  I 


taniMi,  and  firad 
KDj.  Tbej  rs- 
them,  but  to  l«t 
oontend,  if  they 
Indiana  all  iM 
I  men  landed  and 
r  found.  Whikt 
m  akulldng  and 
ifora  ht  had  time 
I.  None  beaidea 
in  Bay  Company 
le  pro;  ty,  as  to 
m  811.  n  disaatera, 
liite  men  for  the 

[aabella  was  eaat 
nd  Island,  whioh 
6  Struck,  the  men 
>rtCkorgev  nmule 
ight,  that  if  tliey 
»,  ahe  m^  iutfo 
aved.  -'■■:''«'■.■ 
ew  Yoric  1^  Mr. 
It  at  or  near  ^%ha 
»roasing  the  bar. 
ofOji^^tafaiTlMHni 
enottt  .•■■.i.■;,■;>1^^- 
M  Ao  raeaiiaa  of 
b  not  luowii  by 
.^  the  world  bIm 
■ii  fimfneatly  get 


■  iiwlbi 


nmmmftimmmmm 


mmmmm 


skfAHwm: 


U^ 


beeswax  Irom  her,  and  it  la  highly  probable  that  she  was 
from  some  part  of  Asia. 

A  Japanese  junk  was  oast  away,  fifteen  miles  /K>uth  of 
Cape  Flattery  in  March,  1833.  Out  of  seventeen  men  only 
three  were  aaved.  In  the  following  May,  Captain  McNeil, 
of  the  Lama,  brought  the  thr^te  survivors  to  Port  Vancouver, 
where  they  were  kindly  treated  by  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Hudaon  Bay  Company,  and  in  the  following  October,  were 
aent  to  England,  to  bd  forwarded  to  their  own  country  and' 
home.*  Thia  junk  was  Icwl(»i  with  rich  China  ware,  cot-' 
ton  cloths,  and  rice,  kk  the  same  year  eleven  Japanese,  in 
distress,  were  drifted  in  a  junk  to  Oahu,  Sandwich  Islands. 
It  is  not  very  uncommon  that  junks  and  other  craft  hava 
been  found  by  whale  diipe  in  the  great  Pacific  ocean,  the 
crews  in  a  state  of  starvation,  without  the  naatical  instm* 
ments  and  skill  nooeMury  to  enable  them  to  find  their  w%f'' 
to  'tk,'iy  port  of  safo^.  Undoobtodly  many  are  eiUirBly 
lost,  while  othera.diift  to  unknown  shores. 

Bfay  not  such  foots  throw  light  upon  the  question  of  die 
coginal  pai^Uag  of  America,  whioh  has  engaged  the  attM- 
tionufnum  for  a  loiog  period.  While  ooa  man  denwaiNfatee 
to  his  own  satisftotioB,  that  dte  first  inhabiianta  of  this 


^'ftom  lUiewtimta  whioh  lik>a  ootje  i»  head,  ^aeatha  B^Beatiaa 
of  tiw  fint  aditkm  of  thia  week,  ibsve  haaa  M  to  adaiin  Um  wMooi ' 
«f  |hrori4aaa>,u(iev«ilopedia  UwoaMoftheaethrae  JaipsMM.    Oa 
thdfWa»t»tl»lreoiiiitiT,th«»w  .->   —  . 

Wh  Mslica  flaM«fi«a.  wata  sAiM  ta  CO  to  their  own  e«aai9^ 

•St 


„  IMUMMihl^tef 


iliiniiil|iiiiiiilliirr  •- 


t«a«lwn.aa4  to 


for  dktribufioa  among  t 
flo 


Mv  hi  MMhdtiac 
the  otlMTwiaa  f     ' 


)|QfMy|fVJ^M,andttKMtainptrt 


tiwq|the  Hehea  af 


m 


■■ 


miniiipmfimRwppwpwiiiiiiiin  wn 


I.  •  n  »m  I  nmwmmmmmm'' 


•pUmp" 


PPI 


>.IIIPI»"< 


I 


DimUMT  TUOBISS. 

omUoMit  must  hav«  orou^  flfom  the  north-^ast  part  of  Aiii«» 
beonuae  of  the  resemblanoe  of  the  {>c>ople  to  each  other,  and 
tho  «aaa  with  which  the  atrait  is  poaMd  io  oanaea ;  an<rtber, 
^vilh  no  l«w  oert£t»ty,  proves  from  the  diversity  of  langua- 
£•8,  from  the  impossibility  of  tracing  tlieir  origin,  and  from 
other  re&sons,  that  an  equatorial  union  of  Africa  and  Amer- 
ioa  musii  have  existed  jn  some  age  of  the  world  sinoe  tha 
uaivarsal  deluge,  and  that  some  violent  convulsion  of  na< 
tiiM  has  sinoe  dissevered  them.    Others  would  recognise  in 
the  aborigines  of  this  continent  the  desoeodanta  of  the  Jews, 
and  ioduatriousl/  tiraoa  in  their  euMoms,  the  ancient  wor> 
aUp  mmI  litM  of  Ocd's  peculiar  people.    But  from  whatever 
aiagte  m  nuoMrioal  causes  they  have  had  their  origin» 
tMr  oaw  ^raditioos,  aad  the  hietortea  of  more  civilised  na- 
tiiM%  lean  alike  uiuibla  to  iafonn  Ma.     Physical  cauaea 
4mb^  Wft  tkiafc,  affa  adleqiMla  to  aeoeiiBt  for  tba  many  fta. 
tvMtof  naanUaaoe  wiiidi  thay  possess,  tlMugh  they  nvlght, 
at  diflbrent  and  diataal  perieda  of  tima  l»«a  Imwb  diifiad^ 
9t  ii^  aoasa  asManar  feoad  their  way,  fiqaa  remote  countries. 
Smmi  see  in  tha  aborigiiMa  of  thia  eouatry  the  eoafirmation 
af  tM»  AtvMfiM  tbaory,  tlMt  hunan  instkatioiis  and  stalaa, 
Uin  hwwaft  apd^meiable  MtuM,  hava  theb  Urtb,  gitnrtK 
maturity,  aiv)  decay;  and  believe  tluit,  as  it  respects  dMfs 
tiiba%  theiM  taodnioiaa  liave  already,  ibr  oenUiriesti  been  in 
ifimHaB  to  ptaduee  their  aaiinoflafi. 

About  tkii  tine  of  Om  year,  vdter  fewl  of  iraifoua  (pmnia 
and  ifaoiaakig!»  to  vlrit  the  bay*  awl  hgoem,  fad  aa  «iie 
««MMkMNiioe^  they  gradually  proeaad  into  tba  inters  of 
tlie  9Mart(f,  tnM»  the  riven  and  lakca  aboimd  wi^  dM^i. 
Itean,  «vaB%  diMka,  «Ml  galls,  isiaf  tlwfe  imr  over  ua,  iind 
tMr  aeraamp,  paitioularly  thoaa  of  the  swIK  ftn  ai  t^ 
almo^  deaftning.    The  swan  isnotoftheapeeiesooanKMi 


,. 


ag^y-,^^.,,^,^.,.,...^,^.,^ 


Muit  p»rt  of  Ani*. 
I  eachoUur,  and 
mnoBH',  another, 
>rnty  of  langua- 
origin,  and  from 
frica  and  Amer- 
world  since  tha 
OTuUion  of  oa- 
inld  raoognize  in 
intaof  the  Jews, 
to  ancient  wor- 
It  from  whatever 
ad  their  origin, 
>re  oiviliied  oa- 
'hyvcal  oautee 
r  tbe  many  fim- 
ughUiey  might* 
>•  heea  ditfiad^ 
anaote  oouotiies. 
he  eoafinDttioii 
ioBsaad  atalca, 
»  UrA,lprenrthy 
it  reapeote  diafB 
Dturie%  been  tin 

>«i$oinginii, 

lOOi^tBdMtk* 

a  (he  teterifK  oC 
imdwlthtlM(^ 
Mroveriw,ii|. 

peoiee  oonKnon 


mmm 


MTOtN  TO  »o«T  rAncomruL. 


MS 


ill  the  United  States.  It  ia  the  Bewick's  swan,  and  is  ohar- 
aoterixed  by  the  same  unsullied' plumage  ;  its  attitudes  and 
motions^  while  sailing  over  its  liquid  element,  are  equally 
graeeAil,  and  its  voice  is  even  louder  and  more  sonoroua. 
or  the  geese  there  are  four  kinds ;  the  white,  white  fronted, 
the  Canada,  and  Hutchins.  Of  the  ducks,  there  are  the 
Maok  or  surf  duck,  the  canvass-back,  th«  blue-bill,  the  long, 
tailed,  the  harlequin,  the  pin-Uil,  and  the  golden-eyed. 
The  number  of  these  water  fowl  is  immense,  and  they  may 
be  seen  on  the  wing,  swimming  upon  the  waters,  or  search- 
ing for  food  along  the  shores.  They  constitute  a  large  item 
of  Indian  living  and  trade,  and  find  a  o(»spiouous  place  ap> 
on  the  tablsaof  the  gentlemen  engaged  in  the  fur  bosineaK. 

Wednesday,  October  38th.  I  took  passftge  on  boards 
OMMM,  gcring  to  Port  Vancouver  on-an  express  frmn  the  £#<: 
m«,  reoMrtly  arrived  from  a  northern  voyage  to  and  tiiOK^r 
Cfcueen  Ofaarlotte'a  Island.  The  oaaoe  waa  Iwge,  cvrryteg 
IHieot  fifteen  hiluidred  weight  including  men  uid  baf^gnge-r 
MMnncd  1^  three  whits  men  and  three  ladittw.  *]%•  (tey 
WM  more  {deassat  than  for  some  tinrie  past,  a  fovorable  oir- 
eniBataooe  for  passing  through  the  bay,  and  around  Toogoe 
BdBt,  where  the  einrent  was  so  strong  that  it  requind  the 
ftdl  eaertfou  of  tite  men  to  double  it.  Ten  miles  fbithei' 
we  passed  Pillar  Rock,  a  few  miles  above  which  we  an* 
oamped  on  the  north  side,  where  the  mountains  came  down 
so  elow  to  the  ribore,  that  I  hardly  foend  space  to  pitch  my 
iMt  lAova  ^  tide  water.  Hie  men  made  a  large  fii# 
Wfaidi  waa  ohaering  and  most  welcome,  and  the  sapr«>r 
wfaioh  th^  pnepered  was  eaten  with  a  keuMr  ap]^rtiMi 
dHoB  ttiany«MP<  wnidst  all  the  appUanoea  of  waaltii  nai 
Iwniifjr.-,  "'^^P'-''  i^.'         ■  ■■'*. 

On  Out  SMh,  we  arose  before  day,  and  vara  wUUng  to 

Iff* 


iiiii 


'^ 


iiiwii^   iiiiiiwmim 


■HII'IK'Hg 


apimuppiii^i  ■  ■ 


tdM  an  Mrly  depvturt  fipom  «  plaoe  where  tide  uad  mooii- 
uUns  dinpirted  the  teniuny.  By  dilifMMly  pumiiiif  oar 
way  until  eight  in  the  evening,  we  nade  ibrty«five  milM. 
TMe  waaa  gveat  (toy's  worii  in  going  up  the  river  againet 
the  oarrent,  whioh  is  atrong  i|hen  the  tida  ie  aetting  oat. 
I  notioed  on  my  return  a  angular  rooky  point  on  the  nmrtb 
shore,  a  short  dietanee  below  the  CowaUts,  ima%  nearly 
perpendioular  about  one  hundred  feet,  asperated  from  the 
ac(itteent  Ugh  Ulla,  and  very  muoh  in  the  fcrm  of  CdOb 
Borii.  b  was  covered  with  oanoee  oootaining  the  dead« 
Theae  depoaitoriee  are  held  in  great  veneration  by  the  In- 
dians. They  are  not  ofaoaenibroanvenieiice,  but  for  aeeu- 
r^  against  ravenous  beasts ;  and  are  often  examined  bgr 
th«  friMide  of  tW  deceased,  to  see  if  tb»  lenaine  of  thb  AmuI 
rapeae  fak  undiMurbed  quiet  And  such  is  their  watohAil 
eare,  that  the  anatootist  could  rarely  make  depredations 
witliont  dsteotkxi,  or  with  inqiuniiy.  And  if  tftey  iwve 
soeh  vegan^  for  the  dead,  are  they  without  Mieotfam  ftr  their 
Uvingr^ativesaiid  firiends?  Ate  thsy  ^<  calbus  to  aU  the 
passioas  but  rage  /"  Are  they  '<  steeled  against  vfmpathy 
ai«l  feeling  ?"  And  have  they  bo  hapjHneas  exoefrt  what 
"  eadata  in  ^  visiOBary  dreaming  of  those,  who  never  oon- 
tem^ated  their  actual  condition  ?"  Have  those,  who  charge 
upon  the  Itudian  character  *<  sullen  glomn,  warn  of  ouriosity 
and  surprise  at  what  is  new  or  striking,"  had  extensive  per- 
swal  acquaintance  wiffi  many  difierent  Indian  natmmaad 
(ribes  ?  and  have  they  gained  their  &intliar  fViendship  lad 
imsfdmee  /  I  am  firm  in  the  be&f,  that  thip  oibaraots*  «f 
vnabused  and  uneontamioated  Indiwis  will  ao(  toes  in  o«r- 
pM«»  with  any  other  n«ti<m  that  can  be  ^ned  J  m^Hm 
only  materi^  difibrenoe  between  man  and  iKi,  is  prodvoad 
l^  the  imbibed  principka  of  the  Chnatian  wligten. 


mm. 


•"^fPWWWW 


^trn'tm 


mmi 


me 


tide  ttni  matai- 
r  pumiiiif  oar 
brty«fiv«  milM. 

i  k  mating  vm 
Bton  the  nofth 
i»  luung  noarly 
intod  from  the 
fonoof  Cdflb 
niog  ike  dttd* 
ioo  by  the  In- 
e,  bat  for  mou' 
I  examined  by 
kiiwofttotfbad 
their  wetohihl 
e  de]H«datiam 
1  if  tfiey  hftf* 
feotkmftfr  their 
AtooB  to  aU  the 
kinst  symiMvthy 
IS  exoefrt  what 
vho  never  oon- 
weywhoohAVge 
int  of  curiosity 
I  extensive  pet^ 
ran  n«tmm  aad 
frimdahip  tad 
ip  (M«iftot«r  of 
KX  loee  in  oeta- 
j»ed ',  and  Mw 
bi,  is  pnadvoai 
ilglon. 


n 


mMAM  KIMMntM. 

Wishing  to  aviUl  oureeWee  ofoalna  waat^;4r  and  a  flivor< 
aUe  moon,  we  kept  on  our  way  in  the  evening  until  thick- 
ening oloude  and  deioending  Tain  ad>noniehed  us  of  the 
aeoeasity  of  finding  an  eneamping  plaoe ;  and  while  doing 
this»  we  ran  upon  a  kg,  wbioh  came  very  near  upaetliog  us 
in  deep  water.  But  by  two  men  getting  out  upon  the  log 
and  liftJ!]^  the  oanoe,  with  much  eurtkm  we  got  off  safely. 
After  paat^-T  round  a  point,  we  saw  a  light  en  the  north 
ibors,  \o  wnioh  we  directed  our  course  and  landed,  whew 
we  found  a  small  oompaay  of  Indians  encamped  under  a 
large  prajeothig  rook,  giving  shelter  from  the  storm.  Th^ 
kindly  shared  their  aeoommodations  with  us,  and  my  tsirt 
was  pitohed  under  the  conoa  ty  of  ^  rooks ;  and  mal% 
skins,  and  Uankets,  though  spread  upon  small  stones,  madb 
Me  a  oomfoftable  bed.  A  good  fire  aad  a  refresUnf  m^ 
p«roUiviseited  the  labors  of  the  day  aad  the  daogett  of  tha 
evening. 

^  We  arose  on  the  SOdi  before  day,  aed  although  the  moni' 
ing  was  rainy,  yet  it  was  suflioiently  oalm  for  the  expteas 
toipieeeeale  A^  '<roy«go.  I  arranged  my  mats  and  sktes 
so  as  torideld  B!r;Tjif  and  baggage  from  the  rain  ;  but  tk» 
HBso,  whose  business  it  was  to  propel  flie  oanoe,  were  exposed 
to  the  sterm.  After  a  few  hours'  labor  and  eiq|>oeara,  wf 
arrived  at  the  place  where  die  May  Daore  had  mad*  her 
hwrbor,  near  which  the  smxthera  section  of  the  WiHailUs 
diwharges  its  waters  into  the  Columbia.  We  branigli^jlm' 
t  Vw  into  a  small  bay  indented  in  the  basahio  rooks,  and 
r!  *  tV  it  so  tiatf  uptm  the  shore,  that  it  was  thought  m%  with- 
pjl  any  other  security ;  and  all  hastened  to  kindle  a  fire  in 
%  thatohed  baii^silg,  which  was  constructed  by  son>e  Ktum^ 
ihw  for  ^  9>«^iimodation  of  the  May  Dacre.  This  ritel- 
ter  was  very  desirable  to  protect  us  trm  the  storm,  and  to 


*mmc 


l|IW,.ip.|li,^ijii 


IM 


Auwriu.  AT  vifreMfvn. 


give  the  men  an  opportunity  to  dry  their  olothec.     WliiUt 
we  were  preparing  end  eating  our  breaUfkst,  the  flowing 
tide,  which  ewelis  the  river  and  alackens  the  current,  but 
doee  not  etop  it,  toolrour  oanoe  from  ita  moorings,  and 
drifted  it  a  considerable  disunoe  down  the  river.    Some 
Indians  whose  residence  was  far  up  the  Cowalitz,  and  who 
were  descending  the  river  in  their  canoes,  saw  it  and  re- 
turned  with  it  before  we  knew  that  it  was  gone.    This  act 
proved  them  to  be  susceptible  of  kindness,  and  increased 
my  confidence  in  their  integrity.    The  canoe  contained 
vaiuable  b«ggage,  and  we  should  have  been  left  without  any 
meant  of  going  on  our  way.    We  could  not  have  crossed 
the  Willamette  nor  the  Columbia  rifet,  and  if  this  had 
hem  accomplished,  still  to  have  attempted  •  letdm  by  land 
would  have  been  an  olmost  hqwless  undertaking,  as  tf« 
forest  had  ao  undergrowth  which  rendered  it  ^uite  impas- 
sable.    The  Indians  ar«  so  much  accusttmed  to  timvel  in 
oaaoM,  that  even  the  poor  acoommodadon  of  a  trail  was  not 
to  be  found  here,  and*  we  should  have  been  compelled  to 
^^ute  every  inch  of  the  way  with  our  hatohei<).    Before 
the  middle  of  the  day,  the  storm  abated,  and  the  remainder 
of  our  way  to  Fort  Vancouver  was  {ideasant,  at  which 
place  we  arrived  before  evening.    We  wwe  lesK  than  thnee 
days  in  accomplishing  the  passage  from  mie  fort  to  the 
other,  and  these   were  the  cmly  throe  oalov  di^»  for-  a 
long  time  before  and  aftar.  «- 1^) 


-M?a 


■If-  w.;fs  ,.,ii 


, 


mmmmmmmmmumtliiiftttmiMitua 


ipl 


irtiiiiiii 


wt 


olotIi«i.    Wiilltt 
Ifkat,  the  flowing 
the  current,  but 
•  moorings  •nd 
he  river.     Some 
>wa]itz,  and  who 
,  saw  it  and  re< 
gone.    This  act 
9,  and  inoreaaed 
canoe  contained 
left  without  any 
lot  have  oroHwd 
and  if  thia  bad 
ft  return  by  land 
ertaking,  a«  thto 
I  it  ^uitp  imfMs. 
nedtotrmvel  In 
fa  trail  waanot 
n  compeHed  to 
toheiq.    Before 
1  the  remainder 
Mmt,  at  whieh 
I  leai  than  three 
one  fort  to  the 
iln^  day»  for-a 


>•# 


•*<n0/f 


mm 


mm'wxmmifF 


. 


wufTU  qvAama* 


CHAPTER  XI. 

# 

Review  of  joorneyinge — eehool — Joumoy  np  the  Wlllnmette— wtlk 
>  apon  the  pebbly  ihorco — fftlla — tcttlcment  on  the  WiUametle— M«* 
thedbt  miMion — epidemic — ^voytge  dowa  the  riTe^-ho•pit•llly  ef 
Wanaxka — construclion  of  hie  houce— Fort  William  on  the  Wa^ 
patoo  LilanA — aatoniabiDg  tbiret  for  ardent  apirita — return  to  Fort 
VancooTor. 

Hkhi,  by  the  kind  invitation  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  and 
lir»kx>med  by  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  Hudaon  Bay  Com* 
pany,  I  took  up  my  residence  for  the  winter,  intettdinf  ta 
malw  snob  axcarnons  as  the  aeason  will  admit  and  the  e^ 
jeeta  of  my  tour  demand.  At  this  ib  the  principal  tfadllig 
peat  of  the  oonqMHiy,  weat  of  the  Rooky  Mouatain%  it  umy 
be  expected,  that  B&^fy  Indians  firom  dMbrant  parta  of  tlie 
oonntry  for  eoasideraM<ii>  dU5i»ce  aroosd,  will  be  aaen  hef« 
during  winter,  and  mewe.  ."sf«)rin4!ti<^  tmf  be  obtalwMl  ef 
their  eharaotar  and  oondition  than  in  any  odiw  oawva*! 
feuld  foxwoB.  Here  alao  intdeia  iVoaa  diflferent  atatioM 
west  of  tfie  aaouBtaios  will  oome  in  for  naw  auppliea,  of 
wboae  peaioaal  aoquaintaaee  with  Iik&a»  I  my  vmll 
mymlt.  '| 

Sabbath,  November  1st.  By  iBvitatio*,  I  preadiatl  to  4 
congregation  of  those  belonging  to  iMn  eataUishnapC  «^ 
undentaiki  English.  Many  of  the  labcwen  are  Preaoh  0«* 
ttadiaae,  who  are  Roman  Catholics,  and  andenrtaad  only 
tfM  Pnoeli  langnag*. 

J   IThia  tradlBf'  post  {Hwaents  ma  important  field  e4  labor, 
•nd  if  a  duriatian  influttnce  can  be  exerted  here,  it  may  be 


iiiiiMi 


MS 


mmmmmmmmmm 


■XPIMMIII 


■'l|W|||..Hii« 


ITO 


asri»w  09  JiKfiuguTorM. 


of  looalculvUe  bmefit  to  th^  •urroundlng  Indian  popult. 
tten.  L«t  •  br«noh  of  Ch.Srt'.  kingdom  be  eiublkbed  h«r», 
wfth  lu  conoomitont  exj^nrtve  benevolenoa  exerted  mnd 
dlffiwed,  Md  thi»  pl«09  uoiM  he  n  centre,  from  whioh  d|. 
vin«  light  would  shine  > nt,  tad  illumine  thi.  region  of 
darkneM.  Thi.  ie  an  object  of  w  muoh  Importance,  th«it 
all  my  power*,  and  energiea,  and  time,  mutt  be  employed 
fcr  ita  aooompliahment;  ao  thai  I  do  not  f«el  that  I  have  a 
winter  of  Idle  oonfinemoiit  bsfom  me. 

Monday,  2d.     In  taking  a  review  of  my  journeying. 
«noe  I  left  my  home,  I  o«n  my,  though  long  in  Ume  and 
«U^«K«,  yet  tbey  have  been  pteaMuit  and  Aill  of  intereat. 
So  diverrified  ha.  been  the  ooyntr^^  through  whioh  I  hava 
pwawJ,  and  m>  varied  the  iaoidenta,  and  k>  few  raal  hanl. 
•Wp%  that  the  Ume  and  diitoaoft  iiave  both  a,>peaNd  abort. 
Ahhoogfa  thia  miaaion  wa.  thought  to  be  one  which  wouU 
probably  ba  attendwl  with  ui  great,  if  nagmtar  dangan 
•ad  deprivatiooa  thim  any  whJol,  had  be«i  ae«  tato  any 
i«rt  of  th.  world,  yat  my  auibring.  have  b«an  ao  pmall, 
Md  my  mentiea  ao  graat,  that  I  oan  aay,  if  thia  ia  taking 
lip  tha  oroaa,  let  none  be  diamayed ;  for  aurely  Chriat'a 
yoke  i.  eaay  and  hi.  burden  light    I  bad  t)iGught  muoh 
on  the  proapeot  of  having  an  opportunity  to  aee  whether  I 
ooiiU  «  njoioe  in  miAringa*'  for  the  heathen.  "  and  fill  up 
that  whioh  ia  behind  of  the  aflliotioos  of  Chrirt  in  roy  flMh 
for  Ua  body',  sake,  whioh  ia  the  ohuroh,"  but.tbe  pntaot. 
i««  provldanoa  of  <3od  wa.  ao  conapiououa  an4  bia  mer. 
oi«e  ao  oonatant,  that  tb«  opportunity  did  not  appear  to 
be  preaented.     A^  to  want,  I  experienced  only  eoough 
to  teach  me  mon  tentibig  the  meaning  of  the  petitioD, 
"give  ue  tW.  day  our  daily  bwads"  and  the  truth  was 
comforting,  that  "the  Lord  giveth  to  all  thair  meat  ia 


■saitm 


If  II  numi^n'' 


g  Indian  popula. 
iesUiblUhedh«i«, 
no6  exerted  «nd 
»,  from  which  di- 
16  thia  region  of 
importence,  UiAt 
iiit  be  employed 
)«1  Uwt  I  have  a 

rtiy  joumeyingii 
long  in  time  and 
Aill  ot  interest. 
Sh  whioh  I  have 
>  few  real  hani- 
•i:^NMured  abort, 
ne  which  would 
greater  dangan 

0  iaat  tato  aay 
bfen  ao  pmall, 

if  thIa  k  taking 
•urely  Chriat'a 

1  tliGi^ht  much 
0  aee  Whether  I 
B,"aDd  fill  up 
riat  in  my  fladli 
but.tbe  ptotaot. 
■  and  hia  mer- 

not  appear  to 
i  only  enough 
>f  the  petitioD, 
tlie  truth  waa 
their  meat  im 


msmoou  HI 

diM  aaaaoo."     I  oan  truly  aay,  "  Mtharto  tlw  Lord  hath 
helped  me." 

I  am  very  agmeably  aituated  in  thia  place.  Rooma  b  a 
new  house  are  assigned  me,  well  furniabed,  and  all  the  at- 
tendance which  I  can  wiah,  with  aoceea  to  as  many  valu- 
able booka  as  I  have  time  to  read ;  and  opportunitiea  to  ride 
out  for  exercise,  and  to  aee  the  adjoining  country ;  and  in 
addition  to  all  theae,  the  society  of  gentlemen,  enlightened, 
polished,  and  sociable.  These  comforte  and  privileges 
were  not  anticipated,  and  are  tl^erefore  the  more  grateful. 

There  ia  a  aohool  connected  with  tbia  establishment  for 
the  benefit  of  the  children  of  the  traders  and  common  labor- 
era,  some  of  whom  are  orphans  whoae  parenta  were  attach- 
ed to  the  Ck>mpany ;  and  alao  aome  Indian  children,  who 
are  provided  for  by  the  generosity  of  the  reaident  gentle* 
men.    They  are  inatruoted  in  the  common  branohee  of  Uw 
Bngliah  language,  such  as  reading,  writing,  arithmetie, 
grammar  and  geography ;  and  together  with  theee,  in  reli- 
gion and  morality.     The  exercises  of  the  school  an  cloeed 
with  singing  a  hymn ;  after  which,  they  are  taken  by  their 
teacher  to  a  garden  assigned  them,  in  which  they  labor. 
Finding  them  deficient  in  sacred  music,  I  instructed  them 
in  ainging,  in  which  they  made  good  proficiency,  and  de- 
valoped  exoelleot  voices.    Among  them  was  an  Indian  boy, 
who  had  the  most  flexible  and  melodious  voice  I  ever  heard. 
It  ia  worthy  of  notice,  how  little  of  the  Indian  complexion 
ia  seen  in  the  half  breed  children.    Generally  they  have 
fiur  diin,  often  flaxen  hair  and  blue  eyea.    The  children  of 
the  school  were  puncttual  in  flieir  attendance  on  the  three 
aervicea  of  the  Sabbath,  and  were  (Mir  choir. 
«  Monday,  Nov.  2Sd.    The  weather  being  pleasant,  though 
Ifwnriiiljr  vwy  rainy  at  this  season  of  the  year,  as  I  wiahad 


Mi 


JOOMIT  vr 


WILULMBTTt. 


i»  •xfion  tiM  ocmnry  up  «m  WilUiMtt*  riy«r,  I  MnkrMwl 
•n  opportunity  a  going  with  Mr.  Luoiar  mmI  Amiij,  wim 
w«re   ratuming  in  a  oanoo  to  their  reddonoa  •bout   (lAy 
•adlM  up  that  fi?«r.     Doctor  MoUughlin  (Wmi«hMi  and 
mm  on  board  a  atook  of  provision*,  thrse  or  four  timM  mom 
thMi  I  should  n(«d,  if  nothing  should  occur  to  delay  us,  but 
•udi  a  prMwutlon  in  this  country,  is  alwaya  wIm.     We 
left  Fort  VanoouTer  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
•ad  prooeodod  five  miles  down  thw  ColumWa  to  the  en- 
trnnoe  of  the  Mulbiomah,  and  about  fifteen  up  the  Willam- 
ette befi>re  we  encamped.      The  name  Multnomah  iu  giv. 
en  to  a  ■mail  aeotion  of  this  river,  liom  the  name  of  a  tribe 
of  Indians  who  ojioe  resided  about  six  mile*  on  both  sides 
fiwm  its  ooniluenoe  with  the  Columbia,  to  the  branch  which 
tows  down  tile  ■outh«m  side  of  the  W&ppatoo  {iland. 
AbMre  this  it  lis  called  the  Willamette.     The  tMe  seta  ti^ 
thia  river  about  thirty  miles,  to  within  a  few  milea  of  the 
hih,  and  through  thie  distance  the  rirer  ia  wide  and  deep, 
•Mmimg  good  navigation  for  shipping. 

Tba  country  about  the  Multnomah,  and  also  some  miles 
up  the  Willamette,  is  low,  and  much  of  it  is  overflowed  in 
the  June  fraahet ;  but  as  we  uaomA,  the  banks  become 
highwr,  and  ere  more  generaiir  covered  with  woods.  The 
^Mmtif  around  oontains  fine  trkcts  of  rich  prairie,  suffi- 
okmUy  interspersed  with  woods  for  all  the  purposes  of  ftiel, 
ftaoing  and  lumber. 

A.  chahi  of  moumaina  running  from  the  south  so«di.east 
lo  the  north  north-west,  an<^  through  which  the  ColumUa 
riv«r  passes  helow  Deer  (aland,  extends  along  the  west  shorn 
of  this  river  for  aome  distance  near  and  below  the  fiilia. 

There  are  |m>bab!y  aa  many  Indiana  who  aav^ate  this 
ttm  with  tMr  ou»ea,  aa  m^  otfiu,  liveiski  the  knrar 


"f 


mm»tiH»i> 


>  rinr,  I  < 
r  Mil  Auniiy,  who 
(ioiiM  mhrmt  AAy 
lia  (Wrniahed  •nd 
ar  four  tiiDM  mom 
ir  to  delay  us,  but 
w«y»  wIm.     W« 
in  Uio  afternoon, 
imltia  to  the   en< 
n  up  the  Willam. 
fultnomah  iu  giv> 
«  name  of  a  tribe 
lea  on  both  akieii 
the  braneh  whkh 
(^Appatoo  faland. 
TIm  tide  seta  t^i 
ew  milea  of  the 
a  wMe  and  deep, 

also  some  milea 
ia  overflowed  in 
)  banka  beoome 
th  woods.  The 
>h  pmirki,  suffi. 
[Hirpoaeaof  ftiel, 

h  the  GolumUa 
igtheiTeatsborR 
mrthefiklb. 
bo  iiav%at«  this 
N*  ia  tfeia  lo««r 


ooortry ,-  m^y  if  wbo«  I  had  «a  oppwtunlty  of  ohaervii^ 
to^y  in  their  busy  purauita,  the  atrtikaa  of  wheaa  pMMIaa 
broka  ia  upon  the  ganaial  silanoe.  One  cr>mp»ny  overtook 
ua  towards  evening,  and  encamped  with  ua  upon  the  elev». 
tad  ahora  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  Owing  to  the  darop^ 
naaaof  the  day,  and  previeoa  rains,  we  had  some  .liffloulty 
in  making  a  fire,  but  at  length  it  was  aooompjisli^d,  and  the 
wood  was  imaparingly  applied.  With  my  tent  pitched  be. 
fore  a  largo  Are.  under  the  aanopy  of  wide  branching  treea, 
I  partook  of  the  storaa  of  my  large  wicker  basket  with  a» 
much  satislaotion  as  could  be  felt  in  any  splendid  mansion. 
Th«  blaie  of  dry  crackling  fir  thj«w  brilliancy  around, 
"oft^ed  by  the  dark  forest,  like  the  light  of  the  aatml 
Innup ;  and  the  burning  balsam  perfiuned  the  air.  The 
latter  part  of  the  night,  I  sui&red  more  with  the  oold  tha» 
ti  any  time  in  aU  nay  journeying,  not  having  taken  wMi 
ma  m  OMsy  blanknU  aa  tba  aeaKw  imiuiMd. 

Tha  atonibig  of  the  34th  waa  ovaraaat  with  oiouda,  and 
rendered  chilly  l»y  a  mi^  aettled  near  the  suHkoe  of  th* 
riiraf,  which  ooUaoting  ia  a  beauliAil  fttMtiag  apon  the  aor. 
rounding  tieaa,  axhiUtad  ooa  of  tkoaa  pioturaaqua  hnoim, 
wUsk  work*  of  art  aMjr  inultate,  but  wUoh  caly  aatOM  «a» 
pwrfiMt.  Soon  aAar  rawoiiBg  the  Ubor  of  the  day,  «» 
pMwd  aevernl  ba«atio  iabuida,  aoma  of  them  of  auffloianf 
magaitada  toeaoloaaa  ftw  aoraa,  otbara  only  rad^  poiata^ 
betivain  which  tha  otmraot  waa  atraog,  raquiring  auoh  af^ 
fort  for  na  to  maba  haadway.  Part  of  tba  way  flani  oar 
ImI  aooampmaiit  to  tha  foils,  which  waa  mx  milaa,  I  wiUkwl 
along  upoo  tba  pabbM  afaoia,  when  I  found  oaloadoayv 
•ffata»  ja«|iar,  and  oomalian  of  cood  quality.  Two  milaa 
balaw  tk0  folia,  a  Iaiga,ali«am  oomaa  in  ftom  tlw  aoatb-eaat, 

c«)la4  Pudding  rivar.    Ite  antNmoa  makaa  a  atraog  oumM, 

16  — w  •» 


HI 


174 


9 ALU  Of 


WILLAHim. 


Wkloli  w«  found  diflloult  to  iftofn,  ao  that  wn  war*  drifWi 
bauk  in  apita  oC  all  our  aflbrta ;  but  in  'ha  Moond  attampt 
wa  auooaadad.  Wa  arrivad  at  the  ikila  of  tha  Willatnatta 
at  two  o'olooli  in  tha  aftamoon  and  hirad  oight  Clough-a- wall- 
bah  Indiana  to  carry  tha  oanoa  by  tha  falla,  the  diatanca  of 
half  a  mile,  and  prooeedod  about  five  milea  Ikrther  bafora 
avaning .  Thaaa  fklla  with  the  aoenery  around  have  much 
to  oharm  and  intereat.  The  river  nlx>ve  apreada  out  into  a 
wide,  deep  baain,  and  runa  alowly  and  amocHhly  until  within 
4  half  mile  of  the  fklla,  whan  ita  velocity  inomaaea,  ita 
width  diminiahea,  eddiaa  are  formed  in  which  tha  water  tuma 
baok  aa  if  toth  to  make  the  plunge,  but  ia  forowl  forward  by 
tha  water  in  the  rear,  and  when  atill  nearer  it  breaka  iipoa 
tha  volcanic  rocka  aoattared  aoroaa  the  channel ;  then,  aa  if 
Maignad  to  ita  fiite,  amootha  ita  agitated  aurgaa,  and  praoip- 
italaa  down  an  almoat  perpendioular  of  twanty.five  faet,  pre- 
aanting  a  aomewhat  wiiitenad  column.  It  waa  a  piaawtnt 
day,  and  the  rising  miat  formed  in  the  raya  of  ths  aun  a 
kaautiflil  bow  ;  and  tha  graaa  about  tha  fliils,  Irrigatad  by 
tlM  daaoendlng  miat,  waa  in  freah  green.  The  rocka  over 
whloh  the  water  falla,  and  along  the  adjacent  ahorea,  are 
amygdalMd  and  baaalt.  Tha  opportunitiea  hare  for  waiar 
power  are  equal  to  any  that  can  be  found.  There  cannot 
bo  a  batter  aituatk>n  for  a  factory  village  than  on  tha  eact 
aide  of  the  river,  where  a  dry  wide-apread  level  axtaoda 
aome  diaUnoe,  and  tha  baaaltto  ahorea  form  natural  wharrea 
for  ahipplng.  The  whole  country  around,  particularly  the 
mm  aide,  ia  pleaaant  and  fertile.  And  can  the  period  ba  flir 
diitant,  when  there  will  be  heia  a  buay  populatkm  t  I  could 
hardly  persuade  myaelf  that  thia  river  had  for  many  thoo. 
•and  yaara,  poured  ita  watera  cooalantly  down  thaae  (a\h 
without  having  facilitated  the  labor  of  man.    Alworbad  fai 


tfk 


[  w«  wara  drifM 
M  mkxmmI  •ttsmpt 
of  th«  WillMMtt* 
Khi  C)ough-«-wall. 
Is,  th«  diatunoa  of 
ilea  (krthflr  bafcra 
round  hava  much 
iprAada  out  into  a 
ocHhIy  until  within 
sity  inoroaaea,  ila 
ch  tha  watar  turoa 

^roa<i  forward  by 
rar  it  breaka  tipoa 
annal ;  then,  aa  if 
irgaa,  and  praoip 
inty.fi ve  faet,  pre* 
It  waa  a  piaaaant 
«ya  of  ths  aun  a 
<kila,  irrigated  by 
The  rooka  over 
jaoeat  ahores,  are 
lea  here  for  watar 
1.  There  oannol 
I  than  on  tha  eact 
>ad  level  extaoda 
n  natural  whanrea 
i,  partioularly  tha 
n  the  period  be  fiir 
lulatkmf  loould 
id  for  many  thott- 

down  thaae  i^lh 
u.    Abaorbad  io 


mm 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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v 

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1.0 


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1.25 


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Phoiograpnic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  t4SS0 

(716)  U72-4503 


m 


m 


1^'    W<\^' 


V 


^ 


v 


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f/. 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


■  m 


*tii» 


SBTrUltlMT  OR  m  WILLiXITTS. 


176 


theae  oontemplfttiont,  I  took  out  my  watch  to  see  if  it  wan 
not  the  hour  for  the  ringing  of  the  bells.  It  was  two  o'olooki 
and  all  was  still,  except  the  roar  of  the  falling  water.  I 
oallod  to  recollection,  that  in  the  year  1809 1  stood  by  the 
flills  of  the  Genesee  river,  and  all  was  silence  except  the  roar 
of  the  cataract.  But  it  is  not  so  now ;  for  RoohesteV  stands 
where  I  then  stood. 

Wednesday,  2fith.    As  soon  as  the  day  dawned,  we  went 
on  board  the  canoe  and  pursued  our  way  up  the  river,  which 
for  thirty  miles  runs  from -a  westerly  direction,  and  at  haW 
past  one,  we  arrived  at  McKey's  settlement.     This  and  Jar- 
vis'  settlement,  twelve  miles  above,  contain  about  twenty 
fiuosilies.    The  settlers  are  mostly  Canadian  Frenchmen 
with  Indian  wives.     There  are  a  very  few  Americaus. 
The  Frenchmen  were  laborers  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Ckunpany,  but  have  left  that  service,  and  having  fiunilies, 
they  have  commenced  farming  in  this  fertile  section  of  ooon- 
try,  which  is  the  best  of  the  Oregon  Territory  that  I  have  M 
yet  aeen.    It  is  well  diversified  with  woods  and  prairies,  the 
■oil  is  ri^h  aod  auflloiently  dry  for  caMvatkn,  and  at  the 
same  time  w«ll  watered  widi  small  streams  mad  sprifl^i. 
TiieM  hoBters,  recently  tuned  to  fe^men,  cultivate  the 
moit  comrikm  usefttl  produotkms — ^wheatof  the  Ant  quality 
to  as  great  an  extent  as  their  wants  require.    A  small  grist 
nOll  is  just  finished,  which  adds  to  their  oomferts.    They 
have  a  o(»nmon  school  in  each  settlement,  instmoted  by 
American  young  mm  who  are  competent  to  the  businees. 

An  ofrfnicm  extensively  prevails,  that  an  Americafi  oolo. 
ny  is  located  somewhere  in  this  Territory,  but  these  two 
settlements  are  the  only  ferming  establishments  which  exist 
here,  if  we  except  those  connected  with  the  trading  posts  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company.    TIm  attempt  which  was  made 


mm 


I. 


tUfaa 


I'll   iiiiiw««i>i4fii«qpKMit 


MS 


MULITOa— MITHOOMT  MIMION. 


•ome  fcw  yetn  linoe  by  •  oom|Mny  of  men  ftom  the  United 
SlatM,  WM  an  entire  ikilure,  Knd  only  a  few  individuals  of 
whom  I  obtained  any  knowledge,  have  found  their  way  baok 
to  th«  States. 

The  forest  trees  are  mostly  oak  and  fir,  the  latter  grow- 
ing  remarkably  tall.  The  misletoe,  attached  to  the  body 
and  la.-ge  branches  of  the  osik,  is  very  common.  Beautiftil 
dark  green  bunches  of  this  plant,  seen  upon  the  leafless 
trees  of  winter,  exoite  admiration  that  its  verdure  should 
continue,  when  the  trees,  from  which  it  derives  its  life  end 
support,  are  not  able  to  sustain  their  own  foliage. 

I  rode,  on  Thursday  the  26th,  twelve  miles  to  Jarvis' 
settlement,  and  was  delighted  with  the  country.  For  rich, 
nessof  soil  and  other  local  advantages,  I  should  not  know 
where  to  end  a  spot  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  superior 
to  this.  I  saw  00  the  way  a  large  number  of  horses,  lately 
brought  from  California,  fattening  upon  the  fresh,  luxuriant 
grass  of  the  pn^ries. 

Near  this  upper  settlement,  a  short  distance  up  the  river, 
the  Methodist  church  of  the  United  States  have  established 
a  mission  among  the  Calapooah  Indians,  of  whom  there  are 
but  few  ruooaining.  Rev.  Messrs.  Jas6n  Lee  and  Daniel 
Lee  are  the  onfadned  missionaries,  and  Mr.  Bhepanl  teaoher. 

Their  principal  mode  of  instruction,  for  the  present,  is  by 
roans  of  schools.  They  have  at  this  time  fourteen  Indian 
children  in  their  school,  supported  in  their  family,  and  tKe 
prospect  of  obtaining  others  as  fast  as. they  o:ai  aooommo. 
data  them.  Their  facilities  for  providing  for  their  school 
are  good,  having  an  oppdrtunity  to  cultivate  as  much  excel- 
Jent  land  as  thti^  wish,  and  to  raise  the  necessaries  of  life 
in  great  abunisanoe,  with  UtUe  moie  labor  than  what  the 
scholars  can  perform,  for  their  suppott.    Tlie  missioaaries 


■JMiniiittMHi 


•  "I  "•'•""■"V"' r  ir-i  -""liiliillf"'^ 


im 


1. 


fien  fW>m  the  United 
i  few  individuals  of 
und  their  way  back 

\r,  the  lattei^  grow- 
taohed  to  the  body 
immon.  Beautifbl 
I  upon  the  leafless 

ita  verdure  ahould 
lerives  its  life  and 

foliage. 

a  miles  to  Jarvis' 
ountry.  For  rich- 
I  should  not  know 
Mississippi  superior 
it  of  horses,  lately 
lie  fresh,  luxuriant 

itanoe  up  the  river, 
B  have  established 
>f  whom  there  are 
a  Lee  and  Daniel 
'.  Bhepard  teaoher. 
r  the  present,  ia  by 
ne  fourteen  Indian 
>ir  family,  and  tKe 
ey  or^n  aooommo. 
g  for  their  school 
ite  as  much  excel' 
Deoeasaries  of  life 
tor  than  what  th« 
Ilie  miasioaariea- 


,  MpHiWII 


*■■'"     M 


tram-ae. 


in 


have  an  additimal  opportuoi^  of  uaefulnefls,  which  i»  to 
ealablish  a  Christian  influence  aamag  the  people  of  tftMB 
influit  settlements.  Mir.  J.  Lee  preaahsa  t»  then>  on  the 
Sabbath,  and  they  have  a  i«ry  interesting  Sabbath  aohoel 
among  the  half-breed  ohildren.  These  children  generally 
have  flur  oomplexioa%  active  minds,  and  make  a  fine  ap- 
pearance. The  prospect  is,  that  this  mission  may  lay  a 
ibundation  for  extensive  usefulness.  There  is  as  yet  mm 
important  deaid(  im— these  missionaries  have  no  wives. 
Christian  white  women  are  vwry  much  needed  to  exert  an 
influence  over  Indian  females.  The  female  character  must 
be  elevated,  and  until  this  is  done  but  little  is  aooomplished; 
and  females  can.  have  access  to,  and  influence  over  females 
in  many  departments  of  instruction,  tamuch  better  advan- 
tage than  men.  And  the  model,  which  is  ftimished  by  an 
intelligent  and  pious  family  circle,  is  that  kind  of  practieal 
instruction,  whether  at  home  or  abroad,  which  never  feila 
to  recommend  the  gospel. 

At  the  time  of  my  continuance  m  this  place,  a  singular 
epidemic  prevailed  among  the  Indians,  of  which  several 
persons  died.  The  subjeotsof  die  ooraplaint  were  attaoked' 
with  a  severe  pain  in  the  ear  almost  instantaneously,  whioh 
soon  spread  through  the  whole  head,  with  great  heat  in  the 
part  afieoted-;  at  the  same  time  the  pulse  became  very  fee- 
ble and  not  vuy  frequent— s6on  the  extremities  beoame  cold, 
and  a  general  torpor  spread  through  the  whole  systemt  e>- 
oept  the  head— 4oon  they  were  aensdless,  and  in  a  short  pe- 
riod died.  In  some  cases  the  attack  was  less  sevefe,  and 
the  patient  lingered,  and  after  some  days  oonvalesoed,.  or 
oontinued  to  sink  until  death  doaed  his  earthly  exisMMS. 

Friday,  Nov.  37th.  I  rode  with  Mr.^J.  Lee  several 
miles  south  to  see  more  of  the  country.    The  same  riefaf 


tirailria'mrteilK''' 


iiiiliiiiMiiiii 


\ 


Iff 


1I08PITAUTY  or  WARAXXA. 


black  Mil  oontioMd,  ftiiaiMiiag  nutritire  gttm  in  aknm- 
4kii06 ;  mkI  alao  the  Mine  direnity  of  wood  mud  pniirie. 
Thii  vtllejr  is  geoeraUy  about  fifty  milee  wide  out  and 
weat,  and  &r  more  extended  north  and  •outh-. 

Towaide  evening,  we  attended  the  funeral  of  an  fodian 
boy,  who  belonged  to  the  eohool,  and  who  died  laat  night 
with  the  epidemic.  Moet  of  the  ohildreo  of  the  school  and 
the  Sabbath  aohool  att  tided,  and  oonduoted  with  propriety. 

On  Saturday  I  returned  to  McKey'e  eetUement,  to  fnUll 
•n  annintroent  to  preach  to  the  inhaUtante  on  the  Sabbath. 
I  etopped  with  Mr.  Edwards,  who  is  temporarily  attMihed 
to  the  mission,  but  now  teaching  sohoel  in  this  settlement. 

Almost  the  whole  of  the  inhaUtants  of  this  settlement 
Msembled  en  the  Sftbbath,  and  made  a  rery  decent  con- 
gregation, bMt  not  more  than  half  of  them  could  underatnad 
itegUsh. 

After  servioe  I  was  called  to  visH  a  Mr.  Caihre,  who 
was  Uken  severely  with  the  epidemic.  I  bled  him,  which 
gnve  him  imnediate  relief,  and  applied  •  blister,  and,  as  I 
kfterward  learned,  be  recovend. 

Eariy  ca  Monday  morning,  the  80th,  MoKey  furnished 
me  with  two  young  Indians  to  take  me  in  a  canoe  to  the 
Altai  where  we  arrived  safely  at  three  o'clock  in  the  after, 
■con.  Here  I  engaged  two  Ihdians  belonging  to  a  small 
TlHage  of  the  ClougK^>.wall-hah  tribe,  who  have  «  penna. 
nent  residence  a  little  below  the  falls,  to  carry  mein  a  ca- 
nee  to  Fort  Vancouver.  Wanaxka,  the  chief,  came  up  to 
tie  fitlls,  where  I  wns  About  to  encamp  alone  for  the  ni^, 
and  invited  me  to  share  the  hoepitality  of  hishouee.  I  hes. 
Ualed,  not  that  I  would  undervalue  his  kindness,  but  Anrad 
•mA  annoyances'  as  might  prevant  my  rest.  On  the  oJher 
^and  there  wis  every  apfiearmnce  of  a  cold,  heavy  storm, 


iiililliitfiiiiiriiiilWiiliiyiat 


ire  gnaa  ia  •bun- 
wood  wnd  pmlrie. 
ilM  wid*  out  and 
oittli-. 

nenil  of  ttn  fodiaa 
rho  died  lul  aJght 
n  of  the  aohooland 
lad  with  propriety, 
lettlement,  to  foUU 
itsontheStbbAtb. 
nporarily  attached 
in  this  settlemeat.. 
of  this  settlement 
rery  decent  ocn- 
could  undentud 

Mr.  Calhre,  who 

I  bled  him,  which 

blister,  mid,  as  I 

MoKey  furniriied 
In  a  oanoe  to  tUe 
oloek  in  the  after, 
ingii^  to  a  small 
ho  have  *  peraaa. 
eanry  me  in  a  oa- 
chief,  came  up  to 
Nie  for  the  night, 
hJshouse.  I  hes. 
idneas,  but  feared 
It.  On  theolher 
(dd,  heavy  stonB, 


iiiniiiiWnifciM>|MH 


miam 


connivcTioN  or  hu  hocbi. 


ITt 


and  very  little  wood  near,  which  I  -could  procure  for  a  fire 
with  my  hatohet  only,  and  I  should  be  alone,  exposed  to 
ravenous  wild  beasts— the  latter  consideration,  however,  I 
scarcely  regarded.     But  believing  it  would  gratify  the 
ohiei^  should  I  accept  his  invitatimi,  I  went  with  him  to  his 
dwelling,  whioh  was  a  long  permanent  building  on  the  wert 
side  of  the  river,  upon  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  feet, 
and  near  whioh  were  several  other  buildings  of  nearly  the 
same  dimensions.    Besides  the  family  of  the  chief,  there 
were  two  other  femilies  in  the  same  building,  in  sections  of 
about  twenty  feet,  separated  from  each  other  by  mats  hunj 
np  for  parthioDs.    Their  houses  are  built  of  logs  split  into 
thick  plank.     These  Indians  do  not  sink  any  part  of  their 
buildi^pi  below  the  surfece  of  the  earth,  as  some  of  the  In« 
dfams  do  about  and  below  the  Cascades.    The  walls  of  tha 
dueTs  houaa   were  about  seven  feet  high,  with  the  roof 
mote  steeply  elevated  than  what  is  oommoo  in  the  United 
States,  made  of  the  aaoM  materials  with  the  walla,  eroept 
that  the  planks  were  of  less  thickness,    l^y  have  only  . 
one  door  to  the  house,  and  this  is  in  the  centre  of  the  firont 
side.    They  have  no  chimneys  to  carry  oA*  the  smoke,  but 
»  hole  is  left  <q(ea  above  the  fire  place,  which  is  in  the  oen. 
tra  of  each  flunilyV  apartment.    This  answen  very  well 
in  calm  werither,  but  when  there  is  much  wind,  the  wbola 
boildiag  beoomea  a  smoke  house.    The  fire  place  of  the 
chief's  apartment  was  sunk  a  ibot  below  the  snr&ce  of  the 
eardi,  eight  feet  square,  secured  by  a  ihuone  around,  and 
mats  were  spread  upon  the  floor  for  the  femily  to  sit  upon. 
Their  docmitoiies  are  on  Uie  ^es  of  the  apartment,  raised 
foitf  feet  above  the  floor,  with  moveable  ladders  for  ascent ; 
and  under  them  they  stow  away  their  dried  fish,  roota, 
berries,  and  other  edects.    There  was  not  an  excess  of 


*■•«< 


IM 


A  MMLWINa  rOTAM. 


nMtBMi  Within,  and  idll  ima  without.     Th#  ladiaiu  in 
Um  low«r  country  who  fcilon  tbhlng  and  fimliac  fcr  •  Hv«. 

lihood  •!»  fcr  from  boing  M  B«*t  M  thoM  In  tho  uppor  oouB. 
Irjr,  who  dopMid  mor*  upon  tht  ohM».    Tho  iMtor  liro  in 
movMbU  lodgM  And  frM|u«Mly  chang*  thoir  habhstlom. 
But  thM*  IndiMM  w«ro  •!«>  khMi.    Thoy  gnvo  mo  moM  of 
ono  aide  oftho  flre-placa,  aprMtd  down  olaan  naw  mala,  ra- 
planiahwl  their  lira,  and  wara  raitdy  to  paHbrm  any  aarrica 
I  ahould  wiah.     Thay  flilad  my  tai^atda.  alter  whioh  I 
apraMl  out  tha  atoraa  ao  bounUAill.r  previdad  hy  Do«t.  Mo. 
Laughlin,  and  parfbrmad  my  own  oooldnff.    During  tha 
•vening,  tha  chief  manifettad  a  diaooaiUon  to  be  aooiable, 
but  we  bad  very  little  language  oonimon  to  us  both,  baaidea 
tha  language  of  aigna.     Tha  next  thing,  when  the  hour  of 
raat  arrived,  waa  to  fortify  myaalf  againat  a  numaixMia  and 
inaidioua  enemy.    I  first  spread  down  tha  oloth  of  my  tent, 
then  my  blanketa,  and  wraj^  myaalf  up  asaaouraly  a»I 
oould,  and  ahould  have  slept  oomforlably,  h^l  I  not  too  ftiUy 
rsaliied  my  apprehenaiona. 

December  li«.  Aa  aoon  aa  daylight  appaared^  I  left 
the  hoapitoble  habitaUon  of  Wanaxka,  and  with  my  two 
Indiana  proceeded  down  the  WiUameUe  about  aixteen  miles 
before  we  landed  for  breakfast.  I  And  a  great  difference 
in  going  with  or  agahiat  the  cunwit  of  theaa  riven.  EUaoa 
going  up  thia  river,  the  number  of  awana  and  geeaa  had 
greatly  mulUplied  apon  tha  watan  and  along  the  ahoraa. 
Their  noise,  and  eapecially  that  of  tha  awana,  eoboad 
through  the  wooda  and  prairiea.  The  swan  ia  a  beaotiAil 
and  majeatio  bird  ;  ita  laige  body,  long  naok,  dear  wUte 
color,  and  graoeftil  movements  plaoa  it  among  tha  very  ilrst 
of  the  winged  tribe.  The  oommon  aaal  ara  numeitMia  in 
this  rivar.    It  ia  vary  diAcuU  to  ahoot  them,  area  with  the 


^•'JiaAc&gsstwacm 


MSIM 


(III  ii«»i<  111— i— WWOt 


uaiaiirifeiitiMMiMUiUiiH* 


•OT 


iBlimyM 


loru  09  Aumin  nnutn. 


tfl 


.     Th«  Indkiu  in 
d  fewllog  fcr  •  live. 

•  in  Um  nppwr  eoua. 
Tha  latter  liv*  In 

[•  tlMir  IwbHstloni. 
ijr  gave  UM  moat  of 
iImui  n«w  mats,  ra- 
«rfonn  anjr  Mirioe 
itde,  aftar  whioli  I 
idad  I17  Doet.  Mo. 
king.  During  tha 
on  to  be  aooiable, 
t  to  us  both,  baaidea 
,  whan  tha  hour  of 
It  a  numarous  and 
aolothofmy  tant, 
ipaaaaouraly  aa-I 
had  I  not  too  fully 

t  appaaradk  I  leA 
and  with  my  two 
bout  aiitaen  miles 

•  great  diflaranoe 
9»o  rirars.  Biaoa 
u  and  geaae  had 

along  tha  shores. 
M  Bwans,  adwad 
«n  is  a  bsaotiAil 
Mok,  olaar  wMta 
iMog  tha  veiy  first 
are  numerous  in 
m,  area  with  the 


beat  riias,  on  aooount  of  thalr  diving  with  extreme  sudden, 
neas  at  the  flash.  I  had  a  ikir  opportunity  to  shoot  one  to. 
day,  but  with  one  splash  ha  was  out  of  sight  and  did  not 
again  appear.  When  I  oame  to  the  north-westam  branch 
of  the  Multnomah,  I  proceeded  down  four  miles  to  Port 
William,  on  the  WAppatoo  Island,  an  establishment  which 
belongs  to  Captain  Wyeth  and  Company.  The  location  is 
pleasant,  and  the  land  around  is  of  the  flrst  quality. 

Some  inonths  ago,  a  tragical  occurrence  took  place  here 
between  two  men  from  the  United  States.  The  subject  of 
their  dispute  was  an  Indian  woman.  Thomburgh  was  de* 
termined  ta  take  her  fVom  Huobard,  oven  at  the  risk  of  his 
own  life.  He  entered  Hubbard's  cabin  in  the  night,  armed 
with  a  loaded  rifle,  but  H.  saw  him  and  shot  him  through 
the  breast,  and  violently  thrust  him  through  the  door.  Poor 
T.  fell  and  expired.  In  the  absence  of  any  judicial  tribu. 
nal,  a  self-created  jury  of  inquest,  on  examination  into  the 
circumstances  of  the  case,  brought  in  a  verdict  of  "  justifia. 
bio  homicide." 

In  Thomburgh,  was  an  instance  of  a  most  insatiable  ap. 
petite  for  ardent  spirits.  Mr.  Townsend,  the  ornithologist, 
whom  I  have  before  mentioned,  told  me  he  had  encamped 
out  for  several  days,  some  miles  from  Fort  William,  at* 
tending  to  the  business  of  his  profession ;  and  that  in  addi. 
tion  to  collecting  birds,  he  had  collected  rare  specimens 
of  reptiles,  which  he  preserved  in  a  keg  of  spirits.  Sev- 
eral days  aiter  he  was  in  this  encampment,  he  went  to  his 
keg  to  deposite  another  reptile,  and  found  the  spirits  gone. 
Mr.  Townsend,  knowing  that  Thomburgh  had  been  several 
times  loitering  about,  charged  him  with  having  drank  off 
the  spirits.  He  confessed  it,  and  pleaded  his  thirst  as  an 
apology. 


mifiHMiiiiiiiiliilii 


L 


UTVBN  TO   roiT   VANCOITTH. 

On  W«dn««d«7,  ^  5W,  I  retureed  to  Port  VaacouT«»r, 
wdl  pleMod  with  my  Mouraioa.  Th«  wMth«r  wm  gm- 
•riilly  pleuwil,  fnt,  from  winds  and  heary  •torma.  Tha 
whola  country  i«  adapted  by  nature  to  yield  to  th«  hand  of 
cultivation,  and  ere  long,  I  may  aay,  without  claiming  to 
he  prophetic,  will  be  filled,  through  the  whole  extant  of  the 
valley  of  t}to  Willamette,  with  fcrme  ipraad  out  in  rich 
luxuriance,  and  inhabiUnta,  wboaa  character  will  depend 
upon  the  religioua  advanlagea  or  diaadvantagea  which  be. 
nevolent  and  pkilanthropio  individuals  give  or  withhold.  I 
found  the  p«>ple  of  the  fort  in  their  uaual  active  buaineea 
purauits,  and  received  a  renewed  and  ooidial  welcome. 


■««*W>l(M»lll|iMm'rinT.«>n»if>iiii«i.iijMillll» 


mn. 


nmTiev  on  in  tAMATi. 


1«S 


ts  Port  VaacouTer, 
»  wMther  WM  g*n- 
e«iry  tloniw.  Thu 
fMd  to  thfl  hand  or 
rithout  olaiming  (o 
whole  extant  of  the 
•pread  out  in  rioh 
raoter  will  depend 
antagea  whioh  be- 
;ive  or  withhold.  I 
ual  active  buaineaH 
rdial  weloooM. 


CHAI*rER   XII. 

Il«rti«w  oa  llM  flabUUi— obalMlM  to  lk«  gwipol— diwxNinging  < 
■BMnw  of  iiKindlng  time  J—oripttoa  of  V*acoQT«r— far  sad  (hna. 
ia|  «ataMlahiiMat— fsnkn  prodooUoBo— tumb«i^«oiiiin«««-p«l- 
trito  tyitom  of  ttia  Hodoon  Bay  Comp«ny--«r«»U  of  lifc— hatd- 
■UfiofahaiitM'i  Ull»-tiMir  porMWMM— ChriMiaa  pria«trl»- 
warldlf  priaeipl*. 

Sabbath,  Deo.  the  0th.  I  have  attended  three  aervioee 
—morning,  afternoon,  and  evening,  and  etpeot  to  oontlnue 
thein  daring  mj  reeidenoe  in  thia  place.  Through  the 
week  there  will  be  but  few  opportunitiea  to  do  much  for  the 
spiritual  benefit  of  the  oommon  laborun ;  for  in  thia  high 
northern  latitude,  the  daya  in  the  winter  aie  ao  abort  that 
the  men  are  called  out  to  their  work  before  daylight,  and 
continue  thair  labor  until  near  dark ;  and  as  their  familiea 
do  not  underatand  English,  I  have  no  direct  meana  of  ben- 
efiting them. 

There  ia  another  ciroumatance  whioh  r^wr&tes  against 
the  prospects  of  benefiting  many  of  the  population  herfr^- 
the  oommon  practice  of  living  in  fkmiliea  without  being 
married.  They  do  not  call  the  women  with  whom  they  live, 
their  wivea,  but  their  isosiwi.  They  know  th«y  are  living 
in  the  oonstant  violation  of  divine  prohibition,  and  acknow- 
ledge it,  by  aaking  how  they  can,  with  any  oonaistency,  at- 
tend to  their  salvation,  while  they  are  living  in  ain.  I  urged 
the  duty  of  entering  into  the  marriage  relation.  They  have 
two  reasons  for  not  doing  so.  One  is,  that  if  they  may 
wLih  to  return  to  their  former  homes  and  friends,  they  can- 


MrneoiTtM. 

no*  l«k«  ttMir  AimiUM  with  them.  Th«  othar  k,  that  thiMM 
Indian  wumwi  do  wjt  un<i«n«an<i  the  obligation*  of  tha  mar- 
riaga  oovenanl,  and  if  thuy,  aa  huabanda,  ihould  wlah  ta 
MM  thair  duliaa,  yet  their  wivea  might,  through  i.aprioa, 
laava  tham,  and  they  ahould  ba  bound  by  obligationa,  which 
thair  wivea  would  diaragard. 

Tliara  ia  no  doubt,  but  that  thia  aubjeot  ia  attand«d  with 
real  diflkultiea,  but  are  they  inaurmounlabla  ?     Haa  Oo.l 
glran  a  law,  whioh  ifobeyaii  would  not  aaoura  our  greataat 
and  beat  good  I    Can  a  ratioral  mind  balance  for  a  moment 
the  pleaaurea  of  a  ainful  life  againat  intereata  whioh  atand 
eonneoted  inicparably  with  permanent  happinew,  and  with 
%  durauoo,  compared  to  whioh,  the  whole  of  thia  mortal  life 
la  but  •  apaok,  a  nothing.     My  heart  ia  pained  whan  I  wit- 
nmi  tha  ihinga  which  are  »eaa  and  temporal  praferrad  to 
thoae  that  are  unaeen  and  pure,  and  whioh  ara  oomroaiiau. 
rale  with  exiatenoe  itaelf.     I  cannot  belieTa,  that  if  thaaa 
man  ahould  marry  tha  women  with  whom  thay  live,  and  dp 
all  Uiay  oould  to  iitatruot  tham,  and  traat  tham  with  tender, 
neaa  and  ra^Mot,  that  there  would  ba  many  oaaaa  of  thair 
leaving  their  huabanda.    And  whatever  might  be  the  raaulla, 
it  ia  alwaya  battar  to  «/«r  wrong,  than  do  wrong.    But  thair 
■ooial  oomforta  ara  ao  atroogly  bound  with  tha  oonla  of  ain, 
that  they  feel,  aa  thay  aipraaa  thair  own  oaaa,  that  it  ia  uaa. 
leaa  to  make  any  afforta  to  obtain  apiritual  ftaadom,  unUI 
they  aball  be  placed  in  diflarent  cirouo-.8Uaoaa. 

Aa  much  of  my  tima,  through  tha  weak,  vaa  oooupiad 
in  iludy,  and  in  digaating  facta  oonnactad  with  the  natuml 
hiatory  of  the  country  weat  of  tha  Rooky  Mountaina,  and 
the  oharMiter  and  condition  of  tha  Indiuia,  whioh  oama 
under  my  obaariation  at  different  limea  and  placea ;  and 
alao  that  whioh  I  obtained  from  perKos  wbow  taatimooy 


mm 


I  othar  ia,  ih«l  tli 
igatioiM  of  th*  m«r* 
(ia.  ahould  wlah  (o 
t,  through  uaprica, 
f  "bligaUoiu,  whiok 

>t  ia  attanded  with 
niabia  ?     f  faa  God 
Mcura  our  greataat 
lanoa  (br  •  monant 
tereata  whioh  atand 
appinaaa,  aud  with 
e  of  thk  mortal  life 
painad  whan  I  wit- 
iporal  praferred  to 
oh  ara  oomroanaii. 
lieva,  that  if  thaa* 
n  thay  liva,  and  do 
tham  with  teodar. 
•ay  oaaaa  of  thair 
ighl  ba  tha  raaulla, 
wrong.    But  thair 
ii  tJia  oordaofain, 
oaaa,  that  it  ia  uao. 
ual  Apaadom,  until 
aooaa. 

«k,  was  oooupiad 
1  with  the  natuml 
y  Mouotaina,  and 
lana,  whioh  cam* 
and  plauaa ;  and 
wboaa  taatiroooy 


m  atroaoN  bav  comtamv. 

nnijld  hn  r«lio<<  tipnn,  and  whioh  oama  uixtar  thnir  paraonal 
obaarration,  I  shall  giva  tham  without  particular  dataa. 

I  havn  alrrady  matilioneti  my  agraaabla  diaap(*ointn)«nt, 
in  (tnding  mo  many  of  th«  comforta  of  lifM,  at  dlflVrant  trad- 
ing pnata  of  thn  Hudaon  Ray  (/ompany  ;  I  have  alao  givan 
a  brief  drwjription  of  the  local  ailuation  of  Fort  Vanoo'    nt. 
Thia  waa  taknn  frmn  auoh  obaervationa  aa  I  could  ntako  in 
a  haaty  view,  aa  I  waa  praaeouting  my  joum«'y  U»the  ehor»»a 
of  th«  Paolflo  ooean.     ThIa  eetaljliahmenl  waa  oommenci^ 
in  tha  y(>ar  lH<i4.     It  hoing  nnooiwary  that  the  gentlemen, 
who  are  engaged  In  tranaaoting  tha  buainMH  of  tha  Compa- 
ny waat  of  the  mountaina,  and  their  laborera,  ahould  bo 
battar  and  leaa  pr«cari«ualy  nuppUe^l  w<th  the  niiceaaariea  of 
life,  than  what  game  Aimiakea  ;  and  the  expvoae  of  trana> 
porting  suitable  auppliea  from  England  being  too  great,  it 
waa  thought  important  to  connect  the  bualneaa  of  (hrming 
with  that  of  Air,  to  an  extant  equal  to  thoir  necraaary  de- 
manda,  and  aa  thin  fert  ia  the  central  plaoe  of  buaineia  to 
whioh  ahipping  come,  and  frori  which  they  depart  for  dif* 
ferant  jArta  of  tha  north- weat  mwat,  and  to  which,  and  fWm 
whioh,  brigadea  of  hunting  partiea  com*  and  go ;  tha  pria- 
oipal  fkrming  buatnaaa  waa  aotabliahod  here,  and  haa  bean 
profreaaing  until  proviaiona  are  fbmiahcd  in  great  abund- 
anoe.    There  are  large  fertile  prairiea,  which  they  occupy 
(br  tillage  and  paature,  and  foreata  for  fencing  materiala  and 
other  purpoaea.     In  the  year  1685,  at  thia  poirt,  there  were 
four  handred  and  Afty  neat  cattle,  one  hundred  horaea,  two 
hundred  aheep,  forty  goata,  and  three  hundred  hoga.     They 
had  raia«d  the  name  year  Ave  thouaand  buahela  of  wheat,  ot 
the  beat  quality  I  evar  ■•* ;  oo«  thouaand  three  hundred 
buahela  of  potatooa  ;  one  thouaand  of  barley,  one  thouaand 

of  oati,  two  thoaaand  of  peaa,  and  a  large  variety  ofgard^ 

17 


iMiiii 


^nmm' 


m 


■VMOlf  %Ar  (MHiPAWT. 


f«g«tablM.  Thla  eatioMto  doM  not  ^Iti4«  the  Imhm, 
honiMl  oattl«,  in.  and  poduM  ndaed  at  other  etatione. 
But  little,  however,  k  done  at  any  of  the  others,  ezceptlig 
CoWile,  the  uppenpoet  poet  vx  the  northern  brancii  of  the 
ColiunUa.  The  garden  of  this  nation,  enolodng  about  five 
•ores,  ia  laid  out  with  regularity  and  gooA  taate.  While  a 
laige  part  ia  appropriated  to  the  oommon  eeoulent  vegeta- 
bles, omanwnul  ,/Iants  and  flowers  are  not  neglected.  Fruit 
of  various  Idnds,  euoh  as  app.^ee,  peaches,  grapes,  and  straw- 
berries, for  the  *iine  they  have  been  introduced,  flourish  and 
prove*  ibat  the  climate  and  «oll  eie  'rell  adapted  to  the  pur- 
poses of  hoitiouita)  ^.  Various  tropioal  fruits,  such  as  figs, 
oranges,  and  lemons,  have  also  been  introduced,  aiul  grow 
with  about  the  same  care  th&t  diey  would  require  in  vte 
Ifttitade  of  Philadelphia. 

In  oomteotion  with  ttda  business  and  fiwmiag  establish- 
nwnt,  the  Company  have  a  flour-aiill  worked  by  ox.poir«r. 
which  b  kept  in  oonstaat  qwration  and  frobooes  ibuf  of 
•Rcellaot  quality.  Mx  niles  i^  the  ColwnUa,  «t  the  «oii. 
fliMnde  of  a  Bmam^Qoming  frmu  the  rartheast,  tK»y  iuive 
A  law^aill  with  several  aawii,  which  is  kept  in  operatfon 
loftiieyear.  This  mill  though  large, does  not  fiunlsh 
Jnmbei  th»  a  onumca  mill  would,  %lth  cam  saw,  ia 
the  Ibited  States.  Titere  Mag  ar  fb»  betow  the  Cas- 
<0¥iM,  aad  but  very  little  withir  ehriadfTd oiilas  of «!» 
atMith  of  ihe  CMumhia  river,  ^ily  timbar  sawed  ia  this 
^U  is  fir  awl  aak.  JMiiak  a*  hmber  Is  used  in  thf 
cooanon  bnstBeei  about  tUs  statie*..  QiMat  and  smnetlniM  two 
ahi^  loadaaie  se»  aaatttUy  to  Oahu,  4?  Midwieh  Islaard%  aad 
It  la  there  Aidil«|  piae  of  the  aordi-weet  tvaat,  anil  iell»  fbr 
about  fliVdotlwe  the  tfionsaadftet,.  %wnaadtiaAwiMr 
shi]^k^(  are  also  Beat  to  thct  market.    Boaiwaoffir.     not 


itmitmmimiitiHMiMmmimm  tHiiVi 


liMMlpliMlliRlWiiiin J 


HOHMUt  BAY  COmAXyt. 


187 


«Iti4«  the  hoHM, 
at  other  atations. 
B  othen,  ezoeptlag 
ern  brancii  of  the 
noloaing  about  five 
>d  taate.  While  a 
n  eeoulent  vegeta- 
»t  neglected.  Fruit 
grapes,  and  straw, 
dboed,  flourish  and 
idapted  to  the  pur- 
fruits,  sttoh  as  figs, 
roduoed,  abd  grow 
H)Id  ?equire  in  ite 

fiunniag  estabUsb. 
trked  bv  ox-fower, 
I  piofaooM  fbur  of 
lonbia,  «t  the  «on> 
rth  eaet,  tfey  !uiva 

kajM  in  operatkn 
(^  does  not  fiimish 
I,  with  one  saw,  ia 
le  below  the  Ca»> 
mind  miles  of  t}m 
Dabar  sawed  in  this 
ber  is  used  hi  thp 
lad  MoinetlBiiM  Mvo 
idw{dilslaiid%and 
vast,  and  mih  tor 
mnandtiaribwiMr 
^Muvaof  fir .      not 


so  durable  when  exposed  to  t^e  weather,  as  those  of  pine, 
nor  so  easily  woriied.  One  half  of  the  grain  of  each  an. 
nual  growth  ie  very  hard,  and  the  other  half  soft  and  spungy, 
which  easily  absorbs  moisture  and  oauses  speedy  decay. 
There  is  a  bakery  here,  in  which  two  or  three  men  are  in 
constant  employment,  which  Aimishes  bread  for  daily  use 
in  tho  fort,  and  a  large  supply  of  sea  biscuit  tor  the  ship, 
ping  and  trading  stations  along  the  north- vest  coast.  These 
lire  also  shops  for  blacksmiths,  joiners,  carpenters,  and  a 
tinner. 

Here  is  a  wall  regulated  medical  department,  and  a  hoe. 
pital  for  the  aooommodation  of  the  sick  laborers,  in  which 
Indians  who  are  laboring  under  any  difBoultand  dangerous 
diseases  are  noeived,  and  in  most  casee  have  gratuitouv 
attendance. 

Among  the  large  buildings,  there  are  four  for  the  tndfaig 
department.  .One  for  the  Indian  trade,  in  which  are  dspo*- 
itad  their  peltries ;  one  for  provisims ;  one  for  goods  opeiw 
ed  for  the  current  year's  burinees ;  and  another  for  $^miag 
goods  in  a  year's  advance.  Not  less  than  a  ship  lead  of 
jsoods  is  brought  from  England  annually,  and  always  at 
least  one  in  advance  of  tiieir  present  use,  so  that  if  any  dis. 
aster  should  befell  their  ship  on  her  passage,  the  business  of 
the  Company  would  not  have  to  be  suqmided.  By  dds 
mode  of  management,  there  is  rarely  less  than  two  sMp 
loads  of  goods  on  hand.  Hm  annual  ship  arrives  ia  Ae 
spring,  takes  c  trip  to  Oahu  during  the  summer,  fre%hted 
with  lumber  to  that  idaad,  and  bringing  back  to  Vanoonver 
-  s«|t  and  ether  oommoditiee,  birt  generally  not  enoogh  for 
ballaat;  andin4he  last  of  September,  or  hi  the  first  of  Oo. 
tober,  she  sails  for  England  with  ih»  peltries  obtained  4u' 
ring  the  preeieding  year. 


■niwiii-iiiiii|iM[tiliiiaaiiiifi>^^ 


-f 


gmmmm 


mmmmm 


ii««i*iimi^. 


vaxmoin  >at  covrAinr. 

'  >JnM  fur  buaiiMM  about  •od  w«st  of  the  Rocky  Mountain!, 
ia  beooming  far  1«m  luontire  than  in  yean  paat ;  ibr  ao 
extondirely  and  oooataatly  ha?e  avary  nook  and  oornor 
bean  aearohed  out,  that  beaver  and  other  raluable  Atr  an- 
imala  are  beooming  eearoe.  It  ia  rational  to  oonclade,  that 
it  will  not  be  nuuiy  years  beibre  this  busineae  will  not  be 
worth  pursuing  in  tbs  prairie  country,  south  of  the  60**  of 
north  latitude ;  north  of  this,  in  the  colder  and  more  densely 
wooded  legkoa,  tae  business  will  not  probably  vary  ia  any 
important  d«)gree. 

But  very  few  Amerioans  who  have  engaged  in  the  Air 
business  beyond  the  Rooky  Mountains,  have  vyw  succeeded 
in  making  it  profitable.  Several  companies  have  sustained  • 
great  loss,  or  entire  fidlure,  owing  generally  to  their  igno- 
rance of  the  country,  and  the  best  inode  of  procedure. 
The  oooduolon  of  these  enterprises,  mainly,  were  inexpe- 
rieaoed  in  Indian  trade,  and,  Hka  Americans  genenJly, 
they  parinpa  enpeeted  tha  golden  flruHs  of  th^  labor  and 
Maatry,  without  the  time  and  patience  raquiaite  to  ensure 
ft.  Hence  die  results  have  fte^uently  been  disan»intment. 
The  Hudson  Bay  Company  have  reduced  their  busineiM  to 
such  a  system,  tfiat  no  one  can  have  the  charge  of  any 
impoftaot  tiansaottons,  without  having  passed  through  the 
inferior  grades,  which  constitute  several  years'  appreiMioe- 
«Up.  Their  lowest  order  are  what  diey  call  servants, 
(ommnon  laborers.)  All  above  theee  are joal}ed  gentlemen, 
but  of  dBfibrent  orders.  Tlie  lowest  claaa  av^  clerks ;  the* 
diief-derks;  next  traders,  and  ohiefltraden ;  feotors,  and 
oMef-feolmrs ;  and  the  bigiiest,  govemsn.  Of  the  last 
named  oiBoeM  ^lere  are  only  two ;  one  reddes  in  London, 
who4s  at  the  head  of  the  whole  bunneBs  of  the  Company, 
and  the  other  resides  in  Montreal,  l^ower  Canada.   .There 


mUilimdmmmmmmMiM 


■iiniiiiium 


B  Rooky  Nountoiiw, 
yean  put;  for  ao 
y  nook  and  corner 
r  valusble  Atr  an- 
lal  to  oonolnde,  that 
buainew  will  not  be 
outh  of  the  50°  of 
)r  and  more  densely 
obably  vary  in  any 

engaged  in  the  Air 
lave  ever  auooeeded 
aiee  have  muftained  • 
trally  to  their  igno- 
wde  of  procedure, 
■inly,  were  inexpe- 
lerfoane  generally, 
of  iheit  labor  and 
raqoiaite  to  eaaure 
een  diaaj^pointinent. 
id  their  biuineke  to 
the  ohaige  of  any 
IB— ad  through  tike 
I  yeara'  appreotioe- 
hey  call  senranta, 
ejoaI}ed  gentlemen, 
■aai^elerfca;  the« 
iden;  fiustort,  and 
Ml*.  Of  the  last 
reeidea  in  Loodeo, 
s  of  the  Company, 
srCitnada.    .There 


••WMMlin 


HP 


TSB  un  or  TUB  ■mma. 

are  only  two  ohieHflustora  west  of  the  Mountaina,  John  Mc 
Laughlia,  Esq.  <nd  Duncan  FinUysoa,  Esq.  and  with  them 
are  assoohtsd  in  buaineas  sevsral  chie£4raden  and  trader*, 
and  otaief-olerka  and  clerks.  The  salariss  of  the  gentle, 
men  are  propoftioned  to  the  stations  they  occupy.  This 
being  their  systeM  of  businsaa,  no  important  entorprise  is 
ever  intrusted  to  any  iliMperienced  person. 

It  ia  worthy  of  remark,  that  oonparaUvely  fow  of  all 
thoae  who  engage  in  the  ftir  buainess  about,  and  west  of  the 
Rooky  Mountaitas,  ever  rotum  to  their  native  land,  and  to 
their  homes  and  fiiendh.    Ut.  P.  of  Fort  WaUa  Walla, 
trid  me,  that  to  iDeepup  their  number  of  tn^PP*'"'  '^  ^^^' 
en  near,  b«t  waat  of  the  mountains,  they  were  under  the 
necessity  of  sMiding  out  recruits  annually,  about  ene  third 
of  the  whole  number.    Captain  W.  has  said,  tUt  of  more 
than  two  hundred  who  bad  been  in  hie  employnwnt  in  less 
than  thrae  years,  only  between  thirty  and  &>rty  were  known 
to  be  aUve.    From  this  data  it  may  be  eeeo  that  the  life 
of  hunters  in  these  lar  western  ragtons  averagee  ahswt 
thiee  years.    And  with  these  knpwn  feots,  still  hundreds 
and  hundieds  are  willing  to  engage  in  the  hunter's  ltfe,aad 
expose  thenselvee  to  hurdsbips,  famiBe,  daqgecs,  and  death. 
The  estimi^e  has  been  made  from  sources  of  correct  infor* 
mation,  that  there  are  nine  thousand  white  men  in  the  north 
and  in  thegieat  weat,  engaged  in  the  variosys  -departmenls 
of  trading,  trapjang  and  hunting,  including  Americans, 
Britons,  Fienoinnen,  and  Russians.    It  is  mora  than  coe 
hundred  and  &t^  ymn  since  white  men  penrtrated  fiur  ibto> 
the  finasts,  in  their  canoes  fireighted  idth  goods,  eoastipig 
ths  sbonsjof  the  remote  lakes,  and  following  up  the  stilT 
mom  nmm  liven,  to  traffic  with  the  Indians  ii>r  their  fun, 
not  ngardiag.hunfer,1pils,  and  dangen.    These  entoiprir 


ite 


•mm 


T 


frnm* 


wnmJmStmimmw 


no 


oiRnmAif  raitfciPLi. 


Mt  have  b«en  exteaded  and  punued  with  avidity,  until 
•vary  Indian  nation  and  tribe  have  been  vieited  by  the  trader. 
What  ia  the  power  of  that  principle  wMoh  draws  theee 
thooaanda  flnom  their  country,  and  dieir  homea,  and  all  the 
tie*  of  kindred  t    I»  the  love  of  gain  and  hope  of  wealth 
the  motive  by  which  ooarage  and  daring  are  roused,  and 
dangers  defied  T    And  shall  Christianity  be  a  less  powerful 
principle  f    Has  it  only  furnished  twenty  or  thirty  mission, 
arles,  whose  sole  motive  is  to  carry  the  gospel  to  the  many 
ten  thousand  Indians  in  the  widely  extended  country,  over 
which  are  ranging  nine  thousand  traders,  trappers,  and 
hunters  t    Are  these  the  only  evidences  the  church  of  God 
can  give  of  sincerity  in  her  professions  of  attachment  to 
Christ,  and  to  the  interests  of  the  immortal  soul  1    If  so, 
then  ChriMians  surely   must  suffer  in  comparison  with 
worMly  men,  and  our  heaven-desoended  religion,  if  judged 
of  by  its  restricted  Anits,  must  be  deemed  unworthy  of  its 
name  and  origin.    But  this  want  of  ehristian  enterprise, 
ohaMtoteriaed  by  die  late  period  in  which  it  is  begun,  and 
otnM  fbrward  whh  such  slow  and  faltering  stepe,  is  not 
only  10  be  lamented  aa  a  blot  upon  the  Christian  name,  bat 
teocMnparably  more  b  it  to  be  lamented,  that  in  consequence, 
geMiatioa  after  generation  of  the  heathen,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  thousands  who  are  trafficking  among  them,  are  left  in 
their  ignorance  of  the  fitevior  to  peri^  eternally.    How 
loi^  ahail  it  be,  that  when  an  adventnretn  man  ferms  a 
plan  he  traffic  in  ftir  distant  wilds,  i»  a'riiert  time  a  com- 
p«By  ia  ftunned  with  a  capital  oi"  fifty  thousand  doUan,  and 
•  huBdrsd  men  are  fimnd  to  Awe  baiddlips  and  dai^on, 
and  thay  am  awa^  t    But  when  a  Chriatifcn  heart  Is  adr. 
rad  up  lo  go  and  carry  the  gospel  to  some  fiir  distant  Indiair 
■atlon,  be  may  plead  and  plead  for  fiwr  men  and  two 


M 


imMimmimiM 


■■".lUiHllUMlllllll'fllSSiBIW. 


ith  kvidity,  until 
dted  by  the  trader. 
rMoh  dr»W8  them 
omes,  and  til  the 
d  hope  of  wealth 
g  are  roused,  and 
be  a  lew  powerful 
'  or  thirty  minion, 
ospel  to  the  many 
ded  country,  over 
tra,  trappers,  and 
he  church  of  God 
of  attachment  to 
tal  Mul  1    If  so, 
comparison  with 
wligion,  if  judged 
d  unworthy  of  its 
Istian  enterprise, 
k  it  is  begun,  and 
ring  steps,  is  not 
iristian  name,  but 
it  in  consequence, 
I,  to  say  nothing 
;  them,  are  left  in 
eternally.    How 
•tn  man  fermaa 
diert  time  a  coin- 
land  dollars,  and 
ips  and  dangers, 
iu  heart  Is  stir, 
hr  distant  Indiatr 
IT  niMi  aa4  two 


kapxil 


mmm 


«•" 


^ 


CIBUTIAN  PIIMOIPU. 


101 


thousand  dollars,  and  perhaps  in  vain.  But  it  is  said,  a 
great  deal  is  now  doing  for  the  heathen  world.  How  much  7 
A»  much  at  to^w  Jhe  minutert  to  the  Ututed  State*.  All 
that  is  doing  ibr  the  conversion  of  the  heathen  is  not  mora 
than  it  would  cost  ta build,  and  man,  and  defray  the  expen- 
se* of  one  ship  of  war. 


■':;^ff:s?^¥X'-'fii?'> 


atmrnrntiummimlllliik 


**mmtm 


idftaNMiw 


■wMnii  mmmimiitmteiiit 


itMIM 


IM 


WMAtr  rOFCLATHMI. 


CHAPTER  XUI. 

ImUsii  popttktton— <Mmmm    mortolity— attriboUd  to  evhivkUM  of 

Um  MU-daMitato oT modieol  -' Vi"1nji    omilDMi  at ln»» 

wrtoBM  of  the  Inilliin  wotmhlmo  to  Jowiab  OMtoaa  ia  pukh. 
OMDl— owrkgo  ooatrftota— ooodition  of  Uw  Analw-oUrMry— 
dirioiou  into  trib«H-ono  point  of  diwimUaritj— langiiago. 

I  HA VI  found  the  lodiu  population  in  tlio  lower  coun- 
try, thet  ie,  below  the  ikili  of  the  Columbia,  i«r  lew  Uuui  I 
hMi  expected,  or  what  it  wae  when  Lewie  and  Clarke  niade 
their  tour.    Since  the  year  1839,  probably  eeTen-eighthd, 
if  not  ae  Dr.  McLaughlin  believea,  nine-tenths,  hare  been 
iwept  away  by  diaease,  principally  by  foyer  and  ague.    The 
malignancy  of  thia  diaeaae  may  have  been  inoNaeed  by 
prediepoeing  oauaes,  such  aa  intemperance,  and  the.influ. 
ence  of  interoourae  with  aailon.    But  a  mora  direct  cauae 
of  the  great  mortality,  was  their  mode  of  treatment    In 
the  burning  stage  of  the  fover  they  plunged  themaelvea  into 
the  river,  and  continued  in  the  water  until  tlie  heat  was 
allayed,  and  rarely  survived  the  cold  stage  which  Mlowed. 
So  many  and  so  sudden  were  the  deaths  which  occurred, 
that  the  thonm  were  strewed  with  the  unburied  dead. 
Whole  and  large  villages  were  depopulated ;  and  some  en- 
tire  tribes  have  disappeared,  but  where  there  were  any  re- 
maining persoos,  they  united  with  other  tribes.    TUsgieat 
mortality  exteaded  nM  only  ftom  the  vicimty  ot  the  Oba- 
cades  to  the  shone  of  the  Pacific,  but  for  north  and  south ; 
it  is  said  as  ihr  south  as  California.    The  forer  and  ague 


'^mmm 


■•"■""w 
€. 


•d  to  rahhraliMt  of 

I  OMtoaa  ia  poaUi. 
ftmalM    tlarwy-- 
tj— luifnago. 

I  the  bwer  ooun- 
•,  &r  leM  than  I 
tnd  Clarke  made 
ty  MTen-eighthe, 
snths,  hare  been 
rand  ague.  The 
en  ineiMMad  by 
e,  and  the.influ. 
lore  ditieot  oauae 
r  treatment  In 
1  themaelvee  into 
til  the  heat  was 
which  Mlowed. 
whioh  ooonned, 
onburied  dead. 
i\  aiidaomeen< 
re  were  any  re- 
bee.  This  great 
lity  ot  the  Oas- 
Kurth  and  aouth ; 
ibrer  and  ague 


BOLISATS. 

was  never  known  in  Ihie  country  before  the  year  1620,  and 
Dr.  McLaughlin  mentioned  it  ae  a  eingular  circumetanoe, 
that  this  was  the  year  in  whioh  fields  were  ploughed  for 
the  Ant  time.  He  thought  there  must  have  been  some 
connexion  between  breaking  up  the  soil  and  the  fever.  I 
informed  him  that  the  same  fever  prevailed  in  the  United 
States,  about  the  same  time,  and  in  places  whioh  had  not 
before  been  subject  to  the  complaint..  The  mortality,  after 
one  or  two  seasons,  abated,  partly  Trom  the  want  of  subjects, 
an^  partly  from  medical  assistance  obtained  from  the  hos- 
pital at  Port  Vancouver.  The  mortality  of  Indians  and 
their  suflerings  under  diseases  are  far  greater  than  they 
would  be,  if  they  were  furnished  with  a  knowledge  of  med- 
icine. Indian  doctors  are  only  Indian  conjurers.  But  I 
shall  have  occasion  to  say  more  upon  this  subject  when  I 
describe  Indian  customs. 

December  26tb.  The  holidays  are  not  forgotten  in  thee* 
fiir  distant  r^pone.  From  Christmas  until  after  the  New 
Year,  all  labor  is  suspended,  and  a  general  time  of  io- 
dulgeno'9  and  festivity  commences.  Only  this  once  in  the- 
whole  yr<ur  are  ardent  spirits  given  to  the  laborers,  wbMi 
tbdy  have  a  free  allowance,  furnishing  them  tba  opportu- 
nity to  exhibit  fully  what  they  would  do,  if  spirits  were 
easily  and  always  acccHible.  On  Christmas  morriing  they 
drees  themselves  in  their  best  attire— accelerated  movements 
are  seen  in  every  direotim,  and  preparation  is  made  for  din- 
ners, whioh  are  sure  to  be  furnished  in  their  first  style,  aqd 
gieatast  |»oftisi<m ;  and  the  day  passes  in  mirth  and  hilar- 
ity. But  it  does  not  end  with  the  day  J  for  the  passioos  and 
appetites  pampered  through  the  day,  j^pare  the  way  for 
the  o^ht  to  be  spent  in  dancing ;  and  loud  and  bcMsterous 
laughter,  shouts,  and  revelry,  consume  the  hours  designed 


MhsMMH 


■MMMMMH 


HMM 


mmm 


wM 


••"•iliwMi 


■^  cviTom  AT  son. 

fcr  nt».  Thty  ooaUntM  Umm  htKh-itniiif  oonvivialidM 
until  they  pM«  th*  portela  oTUm  mw  j4tr,  whm  labor  mhI 
foil  ramime  th«ir  pUoo. 

8ooh  are  oftan  th«  cualonM  of  thoM  who  ptokm  to  b« 
wiaar  and  better.     The  expirlnf  year  vaniahea,  nmidat  the 
mrfae  and  revel*  of  many,  who  pratrnd  by  tuoh  method* 
to  honor  the  birth  of  our  Savior,  and  the  introduction  of 
that  only  religion,  which  require*  peribot  purity  and  peribet 
order.     And  too  many  give  a*  they  profe**,  but  a  d«oen< 
Iwoor  and  reapeot  to  thoae  feeUvat  day*,  when  from  houee 
to  houae  of  thdr  beet  or  hidiflbrent  friend*,  the  wine  is  dr. 
oulatMl  onUI  they  beoome  genteelly  inebriated.    And  i*  it 
■0,  that  tlM«e  day*  are  baptiaed  with  the  name  ot  Mp  tfaf*  / 
The  piety  of  priroiUve  Chrietian*  undoubtedly  led  them 
to  obeerve  the  *uppo*ed  aonivenary  of  our  flavior'a  birth, 
but  whenever  *uoh  unoommanded  obaanraooe*  are  grvatly 
•boaMi,  the  *ame  piety  will  exert  itaelf  to  bring  about  a  ref. 
ormation ;  and  if  thi*  cannot  be  done,  then  to  aboliah  the 
otMtom  altogether.    Heaekiah,  king  of  Judah,  in  th«  oaae 
of  the  braien  aerpent,  which  wa*  preaarved  aa  a  memorial 
of  the  aalvatioa  wrought  inMntmentally  by  it,  ibr  thoaa  who 
ware  Mtton  by  the  flery  aarpenta,  deatrr^  it  when  the  pac 
pie  kkriised  and  burned  inoenae  to  it. 
*  The  queation  whether  there  ia  any  evidenoa  that  the  In. 
«*M  are  deaoended  from  the  ten  loat  tribaa  of  laraal,  thoi^ 
fr«|uently  and  largely  diaouaaed,  haa  not  been  aatiafiuitorily 
anawered.     Prom  all   the  pemnal  obaervationa  I  oouM 
make,  and  eiferta  at  eraminatkm,  I  oould  not  obtain  any 
thing  oonoluflive  upon  the  aubjeot,  bat  am  induced  to  be- 
lieve that  their  origin  Will  remain  aa  problematloal  in  fti. 
tuie,  as  it  ha*  been  in  time  paat.    But  we  know  enough  of 
thrir  origin  fcr  all  praotioal  parpoaes,  ainoa  wa  koaw  that 


HMMMHl 


Mii 


mm 


BaoHnuuKa  19  ti 


unf  oonvlvialitJM 
ir,  whMi  labor  and 

irho  profeaa  to  b« 
niahaa,  nmidat  th« 
by  «uoh  methods 
•  introduoUon  of 
purity  and  perfect 
feai,  but  a  dnoen^ 
whan  from  houae 
h  tha  wine  is  oir- 
iatad.    And  ia  it 
itmbotholpimfif 
ibtadiy  lad  tham 
ir  flavior'a  birth, 
inoaa  ara  graaUy 
iring  about  a  raf. 
tn  to  aboUah  the 
dah,  in  tha  eaaa 
d  aa  a  manMrlal 
ritfibrtfioaawho 
I  it  whan  tha  pao- 

noa  that  the  In. 
of  laraal,  though 
lan  aatisfiuitorily 
nrations  I  ooaM 
not  obtain  any 
n  induoad  to  ba- 
lematloal  in  fti> 
know  enough  of 
9W  kmw  tttax 


UMy  ara  a  part  of  tha  Mian  fcmily  of  aaan.  and  tharafcra 
■aad  Id  kaaw  tha  way  of  aalvatfam  throi^h  JaMs  Christ. 
There  ara  aoroe  thinga  ia  their  belief  and  ouatania  whioh 
&vor  the  idea  that  they  ars  of  IsraeUliah  desoeat.  Their 
entire  fVaedom  from  idolatry  is  a  peouliar  oharaotariatio,  by 
which  a  ay  ara  distinguished  from  all  other  heathen.  Where 
can  anodiar  heathen  nation  be  found,  who  hare  no  idola  or 
idol  worship  f  It  will  be  remembered  that  thia  propensity 
of  the  Jews  to  idolatry  was  entirely  subdued  from  Om  time  of 
thair  oaptivity  in  Babylon.  Among  the  Indiana  beyond  the 
roountaina,  I  found  no  idola,  nor  any  appearanoe  of  idol*, 
try.  They  believe  in  only  one  God.  and  all  tMr  worahip, 
«>  Akr  aa  they  have  any,  ia  oAbrad  to  Him.  They  believa 
in  tha  iouBort  Jity  of  tha  aaul,  and  i\Uura  rawaidaand  pun. 
Wmama.  It  waa  predicted  by  the  prophet  Hoaea  U  tha 
oUMnb  of  kraal,  that  "  they  ahould  abide  nMuiy  daya  with- 
out a  king,  mod  without  a  prinoa,  and  without  a  aaoiUloa." 
Tkay  haw  no  aaorifieea,  no  kinga.  and  no  pdnaa.  TMr 
knowledge  of  theee  Important  trutha  is  very  iaadaquata  and 
impartet,  aa  might  ba  auppoaad,  since  they  «m  daadtvla  of 
tha  Nfht  of  divhto  ravalatkn.  Thair  govanunant  is  invaal. 
ad  aBtlraljr  ia  thair  ddaft,  no  ooe  of  whoafi  haa  aay  apa> 
oial  oeotRd  over  the  othara,  or  over  the  paopla,  birt  thay  al. 
«»ya  aot  In  uaitad  oouaaUa.  Thair  miada  aia  parfcetly 
ayaaloneaivaany  truth  in  ragard  to  tha  oharaoiar  and 
woaaUp  of  Oad.  Thay  have  many  tiaditiana  and  anpar. 
MMona)  MMlaoeaaparMiiB  can  hardly  aea  the  diatiaatkmba^ 
twaan  a  aavaiaaoa  for  Ihaaa,  and  idol  worahip^-lbr  inatanca, 
thot«gh  thajr  nay  baliave,  that  tha  Giaat  Wol/aad  tha  Omy 
Bawaoiamhlad  togadMr  tha  nouataias  in  a  fight,  yet  they 
do  aat  worship  either. 
Thair  oualom  of  puniahing  tha  crioM  of  muidar,  if  U  doea 


* 


liiMH«i 


"tmmtn 


mmm 


IM 


muratANci  TO  ntwtMi  oorroMi. 


not  (Hfliir  fttNTi  that  of  all  other  h««th«n  nationa,  yet  ooin- 
oidiw  with  what  waa  th«  ouatom  of  th«  J«wa.  Th«  nearaat 
relativea  of  thn  rourdnrcd  paraon  am  tha  "  avengara  of 
blood,"  th«  axaoutkmera,  or  "purauara  of  blood."  Thay 
kiH  th«  murdarer,  if  they  can  And  him  ;  and  in  their  own 
tribe  or  nation,  thay  do  not  extend  the  puniahment  to  any 
other  peraon,  ao  that  "  the  raihara  are  not  put  to  death  (br 
the  children,  neither  are  the  children  put  to  death  for  the 
(kthera;  every  man  ia  put  to  death  for  hia  own  ain."  Aa 
the  Jawa  did  not  regard  other  nationa  with  the  lame  benar. 
olanoa  aa  their  own,  ao  the  Indiana  nwka  a  diatinottoa  b«> 
twaan  their  own  tribe  or  nation,  and  othera.  If  ona  ia  kill- 
ed by  a  peraon  belonging  to  another  nation,  if  they  cannot 
obtain  and  put  the  murderer  to  death,  thay  will  take  the  life 
of  aoma  of  the  ralativea  of  the  murdarer ;  or,  if  they  fliil 
of  thia,  aome  ona  of  the  nation  muat  atone  for  the  crime. 
And  if  thia  cannot  be  dona  immediately,  the  debt  of  blood 
will  atill  be  demanded,  though  yaara  may  paaa  away  before 
it  ia  eanoallad. 

Thara  ia  alao  aome  reaemblanee  ia  their  marriage  oon- 
traela.  The  negotiation  ia  oommanoed,  if  not  oomplalad, 
with  tha  parenta  of  the  intended  bride,  aa  in  the  caaa  of 
Iiaao'a  nnarrying  Rabekah.  Abmham  directed  hia  aarraot 
to  go  to  hia  kindred  and  take  a  wife  for  hia  aon  laaao.  Ha 
went,  and  when  God  had  ahown  him  that  Rabekah  waa  the 
appointed  peraon,  he  flrat  eonaulted  her  father  and  brother, 
and  when  thair  approbation  waa  obtained,  Rebakah'a  ap. 
proral  cloaed  the  oontraot,  and  praaenta  ware  made  to  the 
aararal  memben  of  the  femily.  Hie  onatoma  of  the  In- 
diana are  aubataqtidly  the  aama.  The  bridegroom  nagoti- 
atea  with  the  parenta,  and  the  approbation  of  the  daughter 
being  obtained,  the  atipulatad  oommoditiaa  are  paid  and  the 


i.ialiifwiiiii  ^Jiiiiiiyiiii 


rTom« 


iMAMSt  1*  imwtm 


iMtionii,  yM  ooin- 
wi.  The  n««rMl 
thn  "  Kvengeni  of 
j^  blood."  Th«y 
ftnd  in  thflir  own 
jniahment  to  any 
t  put  to  dmth  for 
t  to  (loath  for  th« 
Is  own  lin."  At 
I  the  MnM  bencv- 
a  dktinolloii  be- 
«.  If  one  it  kill, 
n,  if  they  oannot 
r  will  take  the  life 
;  or,  if  they  fliil 
se  for  the  erime. 
Jie  debt  of  blood 
pui  away  before 

Ir  marriage  ooo- 
If  not  completed, 
•  fat  the  oaae  of 
voted  hie  eerrant 
I  eon  leaao.  He 
Rebekah  wae  the 
iher  and  brother, 
I,  Rebekah's  ap. 
ere  made  to  the 
fltonie  of  the  In> 
Idegroom  negoti- 
of  the  daughter 
are  paid  and  the 


man  lakfa  Ma  wifo.  But  a«  miioh  or  more  is  given  ia  iam- 
ry  to  the  daughter.  The  preaeale  aad  dowry  ar^  prapar. 
tkwed  to  th*  rank  and  wealth  of  the  ooatraotiag  partial 
Waoaxka,  iho  first  ohief  of  the  Clough-ewall-lah  Indiaa^ 
hae  raftieed  nioro  than  one  hundred  dollan  for  a  beaulilUl 
daughter,  whom  I  aaw  when  I  ■hared  the  ikuepilalUy  of  liie 
liouae.  A  ohief  at  the  La  Dallna  refuaed  two  horaea  and  4a 
blanketa,  togetlter  with  aeveral  other  articl«a  of  amaller  vaU 
iM.  It  ia  not  to  be  underatood,  (bat  marriage  la  a  man 
meroeaary  iranaaotion  ;  for  iaaoy  and  choioe  have  their  i»- 
flueooe  with  them,  aa  well  aa  aroor,g  more  refined  people. 

Another  reaemblanoe  between  the  Indiana  aad  the  Jewa 
may  be  traoed  in  the  eatimation  in  which  the  fomalee  aia 
held.  No  doubt  the  degradation  of  Indian  women  ia  to  he 
attributed  in  a  large  degree  to  hea^niam,  abd  that  uaeiv. 
iliaed  and  aavage  atate  in  which  we  find  them ;  yet  in  th«i> 
reapeotive  oooupattoaa  we  Aad  aome  foaturee  whioh  tM 
not  diaaimilar.  Among  thoee  natioae  and  tiibea  who  4o 
not  poaaeaa  alavea,  the  women  out  aad  gatlier  wood  for  file, 
AS  well  aa  prepare  food  for  their  bmiliea,  they  pack  and 
uapaok  the  horaee,  aet  up  and  take  down  lodgee,  gathai 
roota  and  barriea  for  food,  dreea  the  akina  for  ebithiflg,  luid 
make  them  into  garmenta.  So  the  Jewiah  wooeen  draw 
water  for  iocks  and  oamela,  4nd  watchml  over  them ;  they 
gleaned  the  fielda  ia  harveet;  they  aJlao  parfonaed  liie 
work  of  grinding  ia  4m  miU-  Our  Savkir  refon  to  tlM«« 
whan  he  foretold  the  detruotion  of  Jeruaalem.  "  Two  we. 
■Ma  ahall  be  grinding  at  the  mill,  oae  shaU  be  tahaa  ani 
the  other  left." 

Slavery  was  auftred  amoeg  the  Jews,  aad  uadeabtad^ 

foe  the  same  reasnne  that  polygamy  waa,  and  the  puttlag 

away  their  wives  by  writiag.«  bill  of  divoioement.     MThile 

18 


iiJi.rij»iiiiiii1<iiiaMitfH*ii' 


MM 


mmmm 


i 


RMMtMUNOa  TO  ilWMR  eV0N»U 

tiM  OfMt  law-Kiv«r  did  not  «i  one*  abuibli  th<>  pnt^M,  Im 
brouKht  It  undar  mndiAmi  ntHrioUom-.  Tha  autallng  and 
Mllinit «  man  waa  puniahabia  with  il  ,'  '  If  a  man  boufhl 
ft  liobraw  aervani,  (ho  lima  of  hia  aarvioa  waa  not  to  eao««d 
•li  yaara.  Intarnwrriagea  tnok  plaoa  botwcan  thaM  aar- 
vanta  and  th«  (kmiliaa  of  their  maatara ;  and  tha  bctrothad 
maid  waa  to  b«  trnated  lilie  a  daughtar.  Tha  aaina  rcatrio- 
tkma  wora  not,  how«var,  anjuinad  in  ralation  to  thoaa  bond- 
man who  ware  bought  of  tha  Iwathan,  until  tha  daya  of  tha 
prophata,  wh«n  thay  war*  commandad  to  break  a  vary  ycA« 
and  lat  tha  oppraaaad  go  tn:  Ho  alao  alavary  axiata  in  • 
modified  form  among  tha  Indiana  weat  of  tha  mouDtaioa, 
not  fanarally,  but  only  among  tha  natiooa  in  the  lowar 
ooualry.  Thay  are  bought ;  takao  priaooara  in  war ;  takaa 
in  paymant  of  dabta,  if  thay  ara  orphana  of  tha  datrtor  ( 
tad  aall  thamaalvaa  in  pladgaa.  They  are  put  to  tha  aaoM 
aanrioa  which  women  parform  among  thoaa  Indiana  who 
IwTO  no  alavaa.  Thay  ara  gaDaraliy  treated  with  kind* 
nan ;  live  In  tha  anroa  dwelling  with  thair  maatara,  aad 
oAan  Intermarry  with  thoaa  who  are  <Vaa.  Thay  are  a»> 
ampt  from  one  onial  practice  whioh  their  maaten  laflkBl 
«pea  their  owp  '  ild'-'-a,  tha  flattening  of  their  heade.  TiM 
raaaoo,  whioh  iM*  >  **>  ooaaaaa  alavca  aaaign  Inr  flatloa* 
leg  their  ow-  .'  ,«  >.  hat  they  <k.*y  be  diatinguiabad 
Awn  their  alavea  who  have  round  heada. 

Folygamy  ia  practiced  among  tha  Indiana,  and  with  near 
Ijr  the  aame  ragulationa  with  whioh  it  waa  pnwtioed  among 
iIm  JewR.  Though  they  do  not  write  billa  of  divoroemant 
and  put  away  their  wivca,  yet  they  aend  them  away  oa 
alight  oooadona.  Rut  thia  bringa  no  dii^raoe  on  tha  wo- 
man'a  charaoter,  and  generally  aita  ia  aoon  married  to  as- 
other,  and  often  aa  advantageoualy. 


mmmmm 


MKIiill'il) f 


X 


im 


i  tfi«  pmt'HMk  Im 
Hm  atDclIng  and 
Ifa  Ruin  bought 
was  not  to  excaod 
twiMin  th«KM  Mr- 
knd  tha  betrotiiwl 
rhe  Minu  reatrlo- 
HI  to  thoM  bond- 
I  tba  days  of  lbs 
ireak  «v«ry  yok* 
very  exists  in  a 
f  th«  mouataiss, 
OS  in  the  lower 
irs  in  war ;  takan 
is  of  the  datitor  ( 
I  put  to  tbe  aama 
oa«  Indians  who 
sated  with  kind, 
lair  maatara,  aad 
They  are  mi* 
IT  maetrra  infliot 
Mir  haada.  The 
mlgn  k,t  flatlaa* 
be  diatinguiahad 

a,  and  with  near- 
praetkwd  among 
I  of  divoroemant 
them  away  on 
■aoe  on  the  wo- 
o  married  to  an- 


ANoa  TO  ttwmm  ovatnam. 

Anoihnr  rtiMiinhUnofl  between  the  Jews  and  the  Indiana, 
is  the  division  of  their  nations  into  tribes.  Th«  tribes  ot 
the  children  nf  Israel  were  the  itesoemiaiita  of  diatiiiKuished 
familios,  and  ilieir  govsmmtint  was  patriarchal.  The  irihea 
among  the  IiKlians  are  oonatiliitfil  much  in  the  samn  way, 
Some  important  personage  gains  an  influenoe,  numbers  ha- 
oome  altaohed  lo  him  ;  and  though  they  do  not  separata 
from  their  nation,  nor  at  once  beoo.nn  a  distinct  tribe,  yet 
they  are  denominated  a  band,  and  these  bands  in  maojr 
cases  grow  up  into  tribes. 

How  muoh  allusion  there  may  ba  to  the  anoient  Jewieh 
custom  of  wsaring  «  frin{(fis  to  the  borders  of  their  gar* 
ments,"  I  am  not  able  to  determine  by  eliciting  any  liusta 
fWmi  Indian  trati  tion,  but  the  praotioo  is  univeFaal  among 
the  tribea  west  of  the  mountains,  as  far  as  my  obaervation 
evtanded— and  su  fond  are  they  of  tliii  ornament  to  their 
drsaa,  that  every  seam  in  their  garments  is  (bmiahed  with  it. 

There  is  one  consideration  which  should  not  be  paaaad 
over,  and  which  may  appear  to  ba  againat  the  evidenoaa 
that  the  Imnaus  are  of  Israelitiah  origin. 

Bvary  dilKirent  nation  has  an  entirely  distinct  languaga. 
Thaaa  languagee  are  mora  dislinot  than  the  different  lao- 
guagaa  of  Europe  ;  for  in  all  the  diflbrent  languages  of  Bu. 
rope  thara  are  worda  derived  from  Latin,  oommen  to  each, 
whioh  prove  a  common  relation.  Now,  if  the  Indiana  arc 
deaoaaded  from  the  Jewa,  and  of  oourse  once  had  a  oomnAon 
language,  vis.  the  Hebrew,  notwithstanding  their  departure 
hy  diilkrent  dialaota  firom  their  original,  might  it  not  be  ex- 
pected that  there  would  still  remain  words  and  idioms  indJ- 
oative  of  their  oommon  origin.  But  it  is  not  ao,  aa  may  ba 
seen  in  a  vooabulary  of  a  <aw  languagee  whioh  I  shall  anb- 
join.     They  have  aome  worda  in   oommon    with   Latin, 


SM 


■M 


"Mam 


•«M>BR«aik 


MSMMIa 


iriiiliHilri 


mi^mmmmmtnmmmm»m* nimmmrnrmt^imimmfmmm-mm  «w*  '^ '  •^p^mmrmt^^^'m nil.* 


NVVtM^^M^WMMlp 


iiM  ii..Ni;i«i||iiii 


tnp 


«0 


a— Bk,  smI  B«bnnr,bottlMM«M  itnd  in  aa  MBtirely  diAr- 
«nt  Mnwe  from  Hat  in  which  thejr  am  wnd  in  thoM  Iwagua- 
fa*.  Aafitf  as  it  ravwta  language,  UMptoofof  a  Jawkk, 
«r«vieji  of  a  oomnM»  origin,  ii  net  only  doobtful  but  highly 
iraprobahle. 


ir» 


1111  I  II  I iiiiiiirjMI       |||.fi*...--..^-ii^»^'''j<ifc*- ..    .  ....t.^>^|iaaM- 


'■■IIIIHIM  I 


•«s4liMlM^ 


AMWAUI. 


SOI 


la  0Btirely  difibr- 

in  thow  Iwngua- 

tool  of  A  MWnn« 

Mul  but  Ughly 


.l-vVdCi. „'     .. K.y.r'-'   " ' *•  *■^•  •  ^!^^ 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
Tha  TariouM  aniinab  b«jond  the  If  ovnUiiw. 

It  u  generally  suppoeed  that  wild  animals,  in  all  Indian 
oountriee,  and  eepeciwUy  in  ihe  far  regions  beyond  the  moun- 
aun%  are  very  numerous;  but,  excepting  bufialo  within 
their  range,  which  is  becoming  more  and  mora  oiroum- 
scribed,  game  is  scarce.  In  giving  an  aooount  of  animals 
beyond  the  mountains,  I  shafl  not  gointwa  mMiula  desorip- 
tion  of  those  which  are  familiar  ;a  all  olaseerof  psrsons. 

Among  the  animals  of  the  genus  eervm,  the  elk  is  the 
largest  and  mortJnajeslio.  It  exists  in  ooosideraUe  num- 
ben  east  of  the  Rooky  Moui  tains,  but  is  less  numerous  on 
the  west  side.  It  combines  beauty  with  magnitude  and 
strength,  and  its  large  towering  horns  give  it  an  imposing 
appearance.  lu  senses  are  so  keen,  in  apprehension,  that 
H  is  difficult  to  be  approadied ;  and  its  speed  in  flight  is  se 
grMt  that  it  mocks  the  chase.  Its  flesh  resembles  beef, 
though  less  highly  flavored,  and  is  much  sought  for  by  the 
Indians  and  hunters.  Its  akin  is  esteemed,  and.muoh  %u^ 
in  artioles  of  olething  and  for  moooason»j 

I4id  not  see  the  moose;  they  aresaid  tobe  foundfatrtlisr 
north,  in  the  colder  and  woody  regions. 

ThM»ar»  three  speciesxjf  deer;  the  red;  the  bl*ek4ailed; 
and  tfwooromon  American  deer.  Like  those  found  in  other 
ootmtries,  they  are  of  a  mild,  innocent,  timid  aspect  j  ele- 
gant in  form,  with, slender,  nervous  limbs.  When  any 
ofcMMt  or  Boise  alarms  them,  they  throw  up  their  heads. 

18* 


Hi>iiftiii>  I  IliittWil 


f 


mm* 


rr 


fn^mmmfmn 


i. 


.umij 


Ammussr- 

eraot  and  i»ot«  their  ears  in  every  direction  to  oatoh  tlie 
■oundi ;  snuff  op  the  wind,  and  bound  off  mth  great  oeler' 
ity.  The  deer  wMt  of  the  mountain*  are  more  lean,  and 
the  fleah  i«  leea  inviting  than  thoae  finind  in  the  United 
Rtatea.  This  may  ariae  ftom  tlM  nature  of  the  food  to 
which  they  are  confined,  having  leas  opportunity  for  brows- 
ing, especially  upon  such  shrubbery  as  is  congenial  to  their 
Mitttivs,  there  being  but  vary  few  of  the  saoohariferous  kinds 
Smmd  in  their  oountry. 

Tin  vad  deer  are  generally  fowul  about  the  Rooky  li«Nifr« 
taina  and  tqmn  the  head  watese  oTtha  Columbia. 
.  Tha  black^iUled  deer,  while  they  are  of  a  dusky  sallow 
«rior,  lika  the  comnrm  Aaaeriaan  deer,  are  Nomewhat  dark- 
er, and  tMr  tails  an  lai)ger  and  nearly  blank,  wfaiok  gnea 
thaai  their  name.  Thaiv  ayae  are  kifa  and  prominent, 
^Mir  eara  an  alaa  larya  and  k>ng,  and  Ridging  tmm  thaaa  I 
saw,  they  aie  aoMller  than  the  eoaoarMNi  ieev.  When  tkagr 
mowa  feater  than  a  walk,  they  bound. 

The  anialope,  which  I  hate  already  deawifaad,  pafa^lsl, 
an  BMiwawina  in  tha  upper  and  pniria  oaatalry.  lliey  aae 
a  lyeefaa  of  the  gaiella,  but  differ  at  least  in  variety,  from 
any  deaoribed  1^  zoologists  aa  inhabiting  the  eaatan  ossti* 
ae&t.  Than  an  aakl  to  be  bvowa  upoa  tha  head,  bank,  aad 
iaattride  of  their  Umba— tha  bnaat,  belly,  and  iuaida  af  te 
Hmba,  an  white>-«nd  their  horna  an  aixisan  inokea  lang. 
Bat  Iha  antalapen  of  this  oountry  an  of  diffi»«ot  oofaNDs,  of- 
t«D  red,  or  red  and  while  in  imgttlar  patohea.  Their  hooM 
an  similar  to  thoaa  9{  the  goat  ir  aiae  and  laagtfi,  bat  an 
raeurvad,  and  an  not  deoiduoiMi.  like  all  the  variatiaa  af 
their  gaatt%  thajf  an  beandMly  fbroied,  and  an  efaaraa. 
taarimd  by  a  praaUiecH  nuld  and  beaotiAd  eye ;  exeeaitfag 
swiftness  k  running,  and  agility  in  all  their  BqptMMia.  TMr 


m  ]iM)ln 


iiii>iii«ii,iFiii!w»ii»i>iimiitHii 


wmfmm 


Hiiilili  illlWP 


ticm  to  ofttoh  tlie 
vrith  greftt  oel«r' 
)  more  lean,  and 
td  in  the  United 
•  of  the  food  to 
tuaity  for  brows- 
congenial  to  their 
ichuriferoas  kinds 

the  Rooky  li«N«. 
imbia.  \-  -m^. 
f  a  doaky  nAkw 
eNomewhatdark- 
laok,  arliioh  givea 
I  and  prao^aeDt, 
Igiag  from  tkaaa  T 
teic.    WhM  llMf 

NAry.  llMy«a« 
a  IB  Tarie^,  uoin 
lbs  caaten  «sBti« 
» baad, back, aad 
and  iuaide  af  te 
wen  inohea  leog. 
i^neot  oofaNDB,  of. 
tea.  Thairhonn 
id  la^gtii,  bat  are 
JltlwTarieliHar 
and  are  dMWWk 
i  eye ;  axeeMtfig 
uTByMMMia.  Tlieb 


1 


fcat  are  cloven,  and  their  lioba  are  slender  and  delieate. 
They  an  gregarious  and  are  often  seen  feeding  in  Bocks  of 
twmty  or  more,  or  sporting  upon  the  hilbi  and  in  the  TaU 
Kaya.  They  seem  to  take  a  middle  place  between  the  goat 
and  the  deer,  though  entirely  distinct  from  either. 

in  ennmarating  the  animals  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, I  am  not  able,  as  ndgfat  be  expected,  to  describe  the 
Soeky  Mountain,  or  big-horn  sheep.  I  am  unwilling  to 
state,  as  feota,  the  desoriptiaiui  of  others,  especially  as  there 
ara  so  many  wrong  statamenta  made  in  natural  history.  I 
did  not  see  any  of  thaae  animals,  which  probably  I  should 
have  done,  if  they  were  as  numerous  as  traTelers  have  said 
they  ara.  I  saw  thai/  boms,  which  ara  enonnously  large, 
%tm  U  is  said,  their  bodies  ara  aotnmch  latgmrthan  a  com- 
■m  dear.  A  horn  whibh  I  measoMd,  waa  filre  inofaM  ite 
dianMMr  at  Us  jwctora  with  the  head,  nd  eighteen  hag. 
hi  flesh,  of  which  I  had  an  opportunity  toaat,  wna  ferpra^ 
embU  to  the  best  mutton.  They  inhabit  dw  mmmtain^ 
and  an  said  10  select  the  most  rough  and  predpitonB  parts 
wfaei*  fimai  k  fcond.  Tbey  ara  not  covered  with  wool, 
hot  with  hair  so  borderb«  1VQB  wnd  as  (e  render  their  coat 

wnim  in  the.  winter. 

The  ffloumain  goat,  wmk  sheep,  dMI  not  oome  nnder  my 
uhnsnaliim  I  waa  anxions  to  obtain  spesimena  of  tbsm 
br  asse^tkn,  but  ensoeedsd  in  obtaining  only  smidl  parts 
oftbeirabina. 

/<|Hs  bMay  neeaawry  to  say  that  the  beaver,  ao  noted  fer 
ita  valnaUa  fiir,  far  its  a<rtivi^  and  perseverance— ila,  an- 
cial  bnhtek  ki  MfMity  and  skill  in  eooatiueting  ita  village, 
e«d  pM|Mii«  ito  neat  and  ooniertable  dwelliBfl^  ii  an  ift. 
Inbtent  of  tUa^oeiatvy.  It  baa  been  saoi^  vdtb  avidi^, 
and  bna  been  •  aowee  ef  weahb  to  many,  bvt  to  aDultitndea, 


ap«nHMlniiw 


k 


1 


SM 


xvxxkU. 


of  pottrty,  miMry,  and  dMth.  It  would  be  difficult  to  Mim 
up  the^  woM  of  the  iMt  olMe  of  adventuren.  Iti  fledi  ia 
Teiy  good  for  (bod,  and  the  trapper  and  hunter  depend  al- 
noat  entlraly  upon  it  for  rabdalence,  while  in  itR  pursuit. 
Although  I  ate  asveral  timea  the  flesh  of  the  beaver,  yet  I 
discovered  no  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  assertion  often 
made,  that  while  the  flesh  of  the  fore  parts  is  of  the  quality 
of  land  animals,  its  hind  parts  are  in  smell  and  taste  like 
fish.  I  should  think  it  would  require  much  assisumoe  from 
imagination  to  discover  the  fish  taste. 

Here  also  the  land  otter  is  found,  and  is  somewhat  numer- 
ous, and  next  to  the  beaver  is  sought  with  avidity  by  the 
hunter  and  trader.  The  shades  of  ito  oolor  vary  from  a  light, 
to  a  deep,  baauaftil  brown.  The  fur  is  rich  and  in  great 
demand,  and  there  is  none  found  in  any  country  of  better 
^utdity  than  the  skins  Isaw  at  diftreni  trading  poM  uf  tha 
Httdaoa  Bay  Company.  Ha  fomatisa  Is  adapted  to  land 
•ad  water,  having  short  and  musoular  legs,  so  arttoolat«i 
that  h  oan  bring  them  faerisDotal  with  its  body,  and  use 
them  aaftaa  in  the  water;  and  it»toea  are  webbed  like  wa* 
ter  fowl.  It  subsists  principally  upon  fish,  ftogs  and  other 
aquatic  animals.  It  has  a  peculiar  habit,  which  seems  to 
be  Hs  pastime,  for  we  know  of  no  motive  it  oan  have,  un- 
lesait  be  the  love  of  amusement,  which  la  to  aseond  a  high 
lidga  of  mow,  and  with  its  legs  thrown  bad^  slide  down 
head  foremost  upon  its  breast.  When  there  is  no  snow,  it 
will  far  the  same  maaher  slida  down  alaep,  smorth,  grassy 


The  sea  otter,  eo  highly  and  juady  valued  for  ite  rioh  fii«| 
is  found  only  alof^inhe  Amerloan  oeast  and  adjaoent  jitenda» 
ftom  opposite  Karatohatka,  to  Upper  GaUfemia.  They  vary 
in  siM,  an  generally  about  fear  laKlong  when  foil  grow*, 


'ia*iiii)iii:i 


1 


MPMr 


t 


mAM^t^dtd^BHsmA 


MdiAouUtottim 
ran.  Iti  flesh  ia 
untor  depend  al* 
le  in  itii  punuit. 
the  beaver,  yet  I 
le  aawrtion  often 
lie  of  the  quality 
U  and  taate  like 
ih  aaeistanoe  from 

■omewhat  numer- 
h  avidity  by  the 
vary  from  a  light, 
rich  and  in  great 
oountry  of  better 
rading  poet*  uf  the 
r  adapted  to  land 
ge,eo  arttcalatad 
Ite  body,  and  uee 
B  webbed  like  wa> 
I,  ftoga  and  other 
t,  whioh  eeene  to 
e  it  can  have,  un- 
I  to  aaoend  a  high 
bad^  elide  dowa 
ere  ie  no  enow,  it 
)p,HBocth,  gnsy 

radibriteriohfiiffr 
dadljaoentJiteadet 
bmia.  They  vary 
{wiMBfoUgvomi* 


AHOUU. 

Mid  nfaie  inoiws  hi  diameter.  Ite  kgi  are  very  ehort,  and 
ite'ieet  are  webbed.  Ite  flir  ie  of  the  fa*  qiwdlty,  k«g 
Mri  g\0M7>  extienely  fine,  intermixed  with  eome  hain ; 
die  outride  ie  Uaok,  aometimee,  howevwr,  doeky,  and  the 
iiMide  a  ohierous  brawn.  They  are  am^ibioaa,  apottive, 
and  often  baak  upon  the  ehore  for  repoee,  and  when  asleep, 
the  Indtene  approach  and  slay  diem.  They  have  been  so 
■moh  hanted  for  their  valuable  ftir,  that  they  an  rapidly 
iiminishing  in  ntonbeta. 

The  hair  seal  is  v«ry  frequently  seec  ia  the  wataia  of 
CManUa  river,  bs  head  ia  liffe  and  iwnd,  Hi  ayes  ftill 
wd  fldld.  I  oftan  saw  H  awfanmiag  after  our  oMioe,  pm- 
iMfiiv  to  view  to  iMad,  neok,  and  abouMaia,  aniaariiV  in 
«iwedt8na,likatka«BBMiffdag.  Its  iialr  la  af  variow 
ael«nB,eaiisnUy  a  dappled  grny.  ItNanlf, 
its  Met  Miami  elemMit,  wslar;  hittfai 
iii(  «rM  looka  en  tin  ahaee,  aadthia  ie  tha  aoetAMm. 

ila>#pMlwHy  tbr  kBlbig  it;  *rJlinM*Ma»aao^i** 
in  the  water,  that  H  will  aaliingii  «  tii^  «Hh  «f  lbs  fl- 
fla,  atid  if  Itflled  in  *a  water  ft  aiafci,  aai  la  diOoait  to  be 


and  tofMla  iWan 


The  rataiin  ia  wwawlMt  nuaiarrwi  in  piata  cf  drfi< 
try,  uiwe  iapadally  tawwii  the  ttpean.    I  ocMld  flo 
^Mirtuqr  diAraioa  in  thtf  appMia 
dnwiBtbaOniliiaMlBa. 

■fitlin^r  MwUli Hii  ooaatry« and  ivAnnd  on  «n 
^|ftkw#««tefAifiialdttiB«>rMaaBlateB.    Bavinsfivan 


oftyaaabnaU 

iarheia1t< 


ftfanoti 


ilit  plaae  la  anke  any  ibrtbar  ranarlu. 

The  weaae!,  the  poleoat,  tto  wannot,  the  mink  and  nmA- 
i  not  namisaaa  in  tfaiaeooatry,  and 


^^ 


k. 


not  dllfering  from  thoM  on  th«  eaatern  pert  of  this  oontioMit, 
they  <lo  not  need  deaoription. 

The  prairie  dog,  briefly  deBcribcd  on  page  08,  ]■  found 
both  on  the  east  and  the  west  sidea  of  the  mountains.  It  is 
about  fourteen  inches  long,  and  is  rather  heavily  formed, 
and  is  undoubte<lly  a  distinct  spades  of  animal.  It  has  re- 
ceived its  name  from  a  barking  sound,  like  that  of  a  very 
small  dog,  which  it  utters  when  any  danger  Is  apprehended. 
It  is  covered  with  a  rich,  dark  brown  ftir.  They  live  in 
communities  and  burrow  in  the  ground,  and  their  villages 
often  extend  over  some  miles  of  territory,  which  is  so  per- 
l>rated  as  to  endanger  both  horse  and  rider,  when  passing 
vmt  them.  Some  one  or  more  are  selected  for  sentinels, 
and  are  seated  upon  the  small  mounds  formed  by  excavating 
their  dwellings,  and  while  the  principal  part  of  their  com- 
riluitity  are  busy  in  procuring  food,  these  sentinels  are  on 
the  lodi<4Nit,  and  as  aoon  as  danger  threatens,  they  give  die 
abim  by  a  shrill  bark,  when  all  instantly  fly  to  their  sab- 
lamuiaan  habitations,  for  satey. 

TbMfetem  small  spaoiee  of  the  marmot,  of  which  I  hafe 
keen  no  desoripdon  in  any  work  on  natural  history,  which 
is  probably  peculiar  to  this  country.  It  is  called  by  the 
Nm  PeNte,  IAmI  ;  is  Ave  fanchee  long  flrom  the  tip  of  its 
BOM,  ezoloaive  of  ita  tail,  wUbh  is  two  fai.  I«q[tb-~4ts  body 
.ii  one  inch  and  a  third  in  diamalM',  die  odor  is  brown, 
biMudihlly  intermixed  with  small  n^iite  spots  tipon  it*  hick ; 
dM  nadar  parts  of  its  body  are  of  a  dull  white.  It  h«a  %fat 
loi^  hairs  projecting  from  the  noae,  on  each  side,  and  two 
over  each  eye.  Its  hdbits  resemble  these  belonging  to  its 
genus.  It  is  reqiaAably  nimbi*  in'  its  movements.  The 
fiadkns  esteem  its  flesh  a  luxury. 

The  wolverine  is  said  to  inhabit  these 


Imm* 


rrifihiiiiiii 


k 


rtofthicoontiiMiit, 

p«g«  08,  ]■  found 
moantaiiu.  It  is 
r  heavily  formed, 
knimal.  It  has  re- 
ka  that  of  a  very 
;er  Is  apprehended, 
r.  They  live  in 
and  tlieir  villages 
y,  which  is  so  per- 
der,  witen  passing 
9ted  for  eentinels, 
med  by  excavating 
part  of  their  com. 
I  sentinels  are  oo 
tens,  they  give  die 
y  fly  10  thair  sab- 

i«,  of  which  I  have 
ral  history,  whidi 
t  is  calM  by  the 
ftom  the  tip  of  its 
B.  lMq[tb—4ta  body 
m  odor  is  brown, 
pots  upon  it*  biok; 
hits.  Ithasi^t 
ia«fi  side,  and  two 
B  belonging  to  its 
movements.    The 

I  weaten  ngiow, 


ARUUU. 


Wl 


and  I  saw  one  in  the  Salmon  river  mountains,  which  my 
Indians  killed.  The  animal  diflbred  in  several  particulars 
from  the  description  given  by  Richardson.  It  was  one  foot 
nine  inches  from  its  nose  to  its  tail ;  its  body  was  not  large 
in  proportion  to  the  length,  short  legs,  small  eyes  and  oars  : 
tho  neck  short,  and  as  large  as  the  head,  and  its  mouth 
shaped  like  that  of  the  dog.  Ita  color  was  uniformly  a 
dark  brown,  nearly  black ;  and  its  fur  was  more  than  an 
inch  long  and  coane.  I  had  no  opportunity  of  observing 
its  habits. 

Hm  liedgehog  is  common  in  all  parts  of  the  Oregon  Ter- 
ritory, does  not  differ  from  those  found  in  other  parts  of 
Amarioa,  and  for  its  quills,  is  held  in  high  estimation  ^ 
tha  Indians.  It  is  interesting  to  see  with  how  rauoh  inge- 
nuity, and  in  hew  many  various  forms,  the  Indians  manuflM- 
turs  these  quills  into  ornamental  work,  suoh  as  moooasoMii 
belts,  and  various  other  articles. 

There  are  three  kinda  cf  squirrel*— two  of  which  I  hava 
already  described.  The  third  is  the  gray,  which  dMfen 
from  those  in  the  United  States  in  being  larger  and  its  color 
nwie  beautiftally  distinct.  I  saw  many  of  their  skins  made 
into  robea  and  worn  by  the  Indians  about  the  Cascade*. 

Of  the  feline,  or  cat  kind,  there  are  the  panther,  the  lonf- 
tailed  tiger  oat,  the  common  wild  oat,  and  the  lynx.  Hm 
panther  is  rarely  seen,  and  the  difference  of  climate  and 
country  produce  no  change  in  ita  ferociousness  and  other 
habits,  from  those  found  in  other  parts  of  America.  Tha 
long-tailed  tiger  oat  is  more  common,  very  large,  and  of-^ 
dull  reddish  color.  Also  the  common  wild  cat  is  often 
nem.  It  is  much  smaller,  ita  tail  is  short  and  its  bolor 
is  like  the  above  named.  I  can  only  name  the  lynx,  a* 
thay  did  not  come  under  my  observation.      It  is  in  tiie 


iftutm 


,^, 


j.iibu'XMl'iS^iiiiiiMiMmnr^m^a 


'f'-J^^yj  "r-iTtntf^'v^  a 


illiW'liii  ■•"• 


lower,  woodad  oountry  Umjt  am  feund,  sad  iIm  ImUmmmjt 
Umjt  mm  BunMroua. 

TtMr*  »r*  live  difliirMt  aiwoiM  of  woIvm  ;  lb*  oomnon 
gmy  woir,  Um  blaok,  blue,  white,  and  the  uirnW  prairie  wolf. 
The  oommon  gray  wolf  ia  the  aame  aa  thoae  found  ia  the 
United  Sutea,  and  haa  all  their  oommon  habita.  The  bUok 
wolf,  I  did  not  aee,  but  aa  deaoribed  by  Mr.  Brmitinger,  a 
gentleman  be'.onging  to  the  Hudaon  Bay  Company,  ia  larger 
than  the  gray  and  more  noble  ia  ita  appearanoe,  and  ia  the 
Rtrongeat  cf  the  wolf  kind.  Thoee  which  the  aamn  geolle- 
man  called  the  blue  wolf,  are  rarely  aeen,  aa  alao  the  white, 
and  eo  for  aa  their  habita  an  known,  they  do  not  materi- 
ally differ  trom  others.  The  amall  prairie  wolf  is  the  moat 
oommon,  and  bean  the  greatest  reeemblance  to  the  dog, 
tad  baa  been  oalled  the  wild  dog.  It  diflbn  firom  the  def 
ia  all  the  peetiliaritioa  of  the  wolf  kind  aa  muoh  »j  Um 
othera  do.  It  ia  aa  unifona  in  ita  ooltMr,  aiaei  ana  habita. 
They  are  of  a  dull  reddkdi  gray,  never  pr '  '"'^'><«id{  Uw 
hair  ia  alwaya  loaf,  blended  with  broT.  i;i^  >» 

«ad  like  other  welvee  they  are  alwaya  prowltuy  ▼- 

ardly.    They  are  more  numeious  than  the  other  & 
in  cooaiderable  numbera  follow  the  oaravana  to  fet^  ^'.jfm 
the  oflkla.    Although  we  frequently  heard  them  howl  and 
bark  around  our  enoaaproeata,  yet  they  naTor  diaturbad 
our  real. 

Muoh  haa  been  said  about  the  iaunenae  number  of  wolvea 
beyond  the  Eeaky  Mountains,  but  I  did  not  And  them  aa 
•uaaerous  aa  I  expeotad.  I  do  not  make  this  asaartten 
solely  from  the  Bui  that  I  saw  or  heard  only  a  fow,  but 
from  the  teatinM|By  ai  those  whose  kmg  rewidenoe  in  iMs 
oouatry  eatitlee  them  to  credit.  It  is  the  travrier  who 
never  saw  the  oouatry  he  deaoribasi  or  tho  lover  of  the 


Itefti 


•*«M«aBMMaMMaaMMiMaMMMiMMIHa 


I  )]iBi|li!i  ■»■' 


IiIm  ImUmmmjt 

m;  tlMoomnen 
mil  prairi*  wolf. 
MM  found  in  tb« 
iiu.  TIm  bl*ok 
!r.  BrmiUngcr,  • 
unpany,  in  larger 
rmnoa,  and  is  Um 
the  Mmn  geotU* 
M  •Iw  Um  white, 
ly  do  not  nwtari- 
)  wolf  is  the  moet 
in«e  to  the  dog, 
kn  flroM  thedeg 

eiaei  era  habile. 
If    ■-  '""Nidi  the 

I  other  £ 

urn  to  fetu  k.pM 

d  them  howl  tiid 

nerer  dieturbed 

lumber  of  wolvee 
DOt  Hod  them  ee 
Jce  thie  aMeilioa 
d  only  a  fiw,  but 

reeidenoe  in  lUe 
the  travrter  who 

the  lover  oTth* 


':^«A:' 


ANOIAia.  109 

marvelous,  or  he  who  doee  not  expect  soon  to  be  followed 
in  his  route  through  dreary  and  uninhabited  wilds,  who 
sees,  and  minutely  ralatee,  adventures  with  the  reptiles  and 
monsteni  of  the  desert. 

The  6ix,  which  is  gpnerally  dlnporsed  through  the  world, 
Is  found  hero  in  thne  diflercnt  Icinds ;  the  red,  gray,  and 
silver.  They  do  not  diflTor  from  thoea  found  oast  of  the 
mountains.  The  silver  gray  fox  is  soaroe,  and  highly 
esteemed,  and  takes  the  highest  rank  among  the  furs  ot 
eommnroe.  Its  color  is  dark,  sometimes  nearly  blaok,  the 
ends  of  the  hairs  tipped  with  white,  and  in  addition  to  the 
uacommonly  fine  texture,  the  fur  presents  a  beautifUl  gloaey 
•ppearanee. 

Martins  are  not  abundant ;  some  are  9mmi  about  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia  in  woody  mountaina,  but  they 
afe  more  numerous  and  of  superior  quality  farther  north. 

The  inoflensive,  timorous  hare,  in  three  diflbfent  speoiee, 

abounds  in  all  parU  of  this  country.     Its  natural  instinot 

for  self-preservation,  its  remarkably  prominent  eye,  its  large 

active  ear,  and  its  soft  Air,  are  iu  oharacteristice  in  this,  aa 

in  otlier  regions.    The  three  species  are,  the  large  oommoa 

hare,  which  is  generally  known  ;  the  small  chief  he-e  witil 

large  round  ears ;  and  a  very  small  species,  only  five  or  six 

inchea  long,  with  pointed  ears.    If  the  first  named  diflbre 

in  any  paitioalar  firom  thoee  in  the  United  States,  it  te  in  its 

manner  of  running,  and  its  speed.    Its  bomid  is  not  ragii' 

lar,  but  its  motions  are  an  alternate  running  and  leapiag 

at  an  almoet  incredible  distanoe,  and  with  auch  swiftness 

dMt  I  frequently  mistook  it,  at  first  view,  for  the  prairie 

hen,  which  I  supposed  was  flying  near  the  surflMM  of  the 

ground.     Its  flesh,  when  used  for  (bod,  is  tender  and  of  a 

pleasant  flavor. 

19 


RPW 


1 


Mi 


AVflUM. 


Th«  only  itmt  whlok  may  of  the  ImUm*  Iwv«  to  |w» 
tMt  thMii  from  Dm  ooM,  is  m«d«  of  Um  ■kiu  of  theM  ani- 
tmla,  patolMd  togMhcr  into  •  msuHj  iob«. 

Th«i»  are  four  v»rietf«i  of  bMra,  though  It  b  mppoMd 
dwra  tir*  only  two  diiUnot  e|Moi«i.     Th«»  are  th«  white, 
griuty,  brown,  end  black.     The  white  beer  !■  ferooloue  end 
powerful,  but  their  numbera  ere  eo  enwll  in  the  region  of 
the  Oregon  country,  that  they  ere  not  en  object  of  dreed. 
But  the  grizxiy  bear  ia  far  more  numeroua,  more  formk'jble, 
and  larger,  eome  of  them  weighing  eix  or  eight  hundred 
pounds.      Their  toeth  ere  formed  for  atrength,  and  their 
olawe  are  equally  Urrlftc,  measuring  four  or  flre  inohee ; 
and  their  feet,  which  are  artoniehlngly  large,  exclusive  of 
the  daws,  measuring  not  fcr  from  ten  inches  long,  and  five 
inohee  wide.    There  are  some  even  larger.     The  shadM 
of  their  color  vary  from  a  very  light  gray  to  a  dai*  brows, 
always  retaining  the  griuly  charaotaristio.    Among  a  mul- 
tituda  of  their  skins  which  I  saw,  there  were  some  baauti- 
Ailly  dappled,  and  as  large  as  buflWo  robes.    These  wn 
Mid  in  high  Mtimation.    Their  hair  and  fur  is  longer,  flner, 
•nd  more  almndant  than  of  any  other  speoiee.    They  da- 
pawl  nora  upon  their  strength  than  speed  for  taking  tMr 
pi«y,  and  therefore  generally  lurk  in  wUlows  or  nOm 
(hloketa,  and  suddenly  mize  upon  any  aoimal  which  nay 
ha  passing  near.    The  nountoia  maa  tell  as  maay  woo. 
tefbl  stories  about  their  enoooatera  with  theae  prodigfaa  of 
ilNBgth  and  fcrooity,  as  some  mountain  travelers  tell  aa 
•boot  oonataat  battles  with  the  Blaokfeet  IndiaBa,  and  iter- 
vntioa,  aad  eating  dogs.    Now  I  may  he  eonrfdered  diA- 
«lsat  in  ajbiJW  and  fniitfbl  imagiaatian,  if  I  do  eoteatar- 
.I^B  my  readers  with  mu  bwir  story,  after  haviag  travalad 

thousands  of  miles  over  prairies,  and  roouataias,  thfoa^ 


nil iiinMiuii  I  lUiiijilfclHlt 


mumntimmmmmi  .imwuaeweasMI 


▲JIIMAUI. 


Ml 


imImit*  to  |M» 
M  of  iheM  ani- 

jh  h  iaauppoM^ 
I  are  th«  white, 
r  it  ferooioua  •ml 
In  the  region  of 
object  of  dread, 
more  fonni<'»ble, 
r  eight  hundred 
ength,  «nd  their 

Mr  Are  inohee; 
rge,  exclusive  of 
«« long,  and  Ave 
er.  The  ehMlee 
to  •  darii  brown, 
Among  a  muU 
p«r«  eonie  baauU- 
•e.  Theee  were 
ir  is  longer,  finer, 
Boiee.  Theyde- 
1  for  taking  thair 
wUlowe  or  otliar 
imal  wbicli  oMy 
It  aa  many  woo> 
thaaa  pvodiglM  of 

travelen  tall  on 
[ndiana,  and  ilar> 
I  eonridarad  dei- 
,  irIdoea(aatar• 
r  having  tnvalad 
Mrantaiae,  tlmM^ 


valleye,  ravines,  and  amoogst  eaves,  ohasras  and  dsserti.   . 
Bnt  as  I  did  not  myself  have  any  wtmittfnl  enoountom,  I 
must  borrow  from  a  gentleman  of  esUblished  good  oharao. 
tor,  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  gavs  na 
an  account  of  a  case  which  he  witnessed,     tie  and  a  nusk 
bar  of  others  were  traveling  in  canoes  up  the  Alhabason 
river,  and  one  morning  one  of  their  hunters  shot  upon  tlto 
shore  a  large  cub  of  a  griuly  bear,  which  they  took  on 
board  a  canoe,  and  of  which  they  made  their  supper  on 
encamping  for  the  night.     While  seated  around  their  Am 
in  oonversatkm.  the  supposed  mother  of  the  slain  cub  ap- 
pniached,  qirang  across  the  circle  and  over  the  fire,  seia*l 
the  hunter  who  had  shot  the  cub,  threw  him  aonMs  her 
shoulder,  and  made  off  with  him.    They  all  laid  hold  «l 
thtir  riAee  and  pursued,  hut  Ibarad  to  fire  last  they  should 
mura  thab  oompankm.     But  ha  requested  thnn  to  fiia, 
wUoh  one  of  them  did  and  wounded  the  bear.    She  thw 
dropped  the  first  oflbnder,  and  laid  hold  of  the  laat  in  like 
»r  as  the  first,  but  more  roofhly,  and  aooaUrated  hir 
triure.    Thara  iras  oo  tioM  to  be  hut,  and  savaral  find 
•t  the  ■ema  time,  and  braugte  her  to  the  ground.    The  laat 
wmm  was  badly  woundad  but  raoorarsd.    The  "fy««l  ai«l> 
Mm,"  or  myMery  in  this  case,  I  shall  not  attempt  to  an- 
plain,  but  let  every  ooa  aooount  for  it  in  Ua  own  way. 

TIm  brown  bear  ia  less  feneknis,  more  solitary,  an^  Ml 
MgUy  sateamed  ateher  for  food  or  for  ite  skin.  Tha  blank 
baar  is  sooDawhai  slniUar  bi  ito  habto  to  tha  brown,  but  Uvea 
nvnupon  vsgstahla  food,  and  ia  more  in  astimntko  for  ils 
pnro  biaok,  wall<«oat4d  dcin. 

I  oleee  with  the  buflUo,  whkdi  iaoftha  htftim  genus,  and 
fo  tha  laifcM  and  the  most  important  for  food  and  oorariaf 
•f  any  of  tka  aaimala  ia  our  oouatry.    I  natd  not  in  this 


rl 


iMIii 


liMII"f!'«» 


wmmif9w  .*  '1  Mn  *iii 


4litN4UIU 

^•M  go  Into  w  lonf  dMoriptkia.  m  ollMrwtM  would  b*  im- 
portaiM,  having  alrMwtjr  npuliwn  of  ih«*m  m  I  wm  (Muwinft 
through  tiMir  rang*  c»f  eotmiry.  Aftar  having  B^n  thouir- 
•nda  and  ton  IhouMmln  o{  th«m,  and  having  had  mnntha  of 
lima  In  axaniine  their  form*  and  hahlla,  I  do  ikH  ihinli  thiiy 
should  ha  claaaod  with  ihe  buflklo  or  biaon  of  iha  rantem 
oontinanl.  No(  with  the  bufliilo,  if  hiirtoriana  have  given  a 
oorreot  draoription  of  Ihoaa  on  that  oontinant.  Th'^  fleah 
of  thoaa  ii  Mtid  to  ba  •'  black,  hard,  and  very  un|ialatabto ; 
ihair  hidaa  impenetrable,  making  soft  and  amomh  leather— 
thair  race  ia  ao  Aaroe  and  fimnidable,  that  there  ia  no  math* 
od  of  eaoaping  their  puniuit  but  by  olimbing  up  aome  lm» 
manae  tree  ;  for  a  moderate  tree  would  ba  broken  down  by 
them,  and  ntany  travelera  have  inatantly  bean  gored  to  death 
bjr  them  and  trampled  to  piecaa  under  their  feet."  It  ia 
•aid  *'  thair  vnioa  ia  a  hidaoua  loud  bellow."  But  none  of 
thaaa  thinga  are  tma  of  the  buflklo  of  our  country. 

If  ft  trua  ftooount  haa  baan  given  of  the  biaon  of  tha  MM- 
em  oofttinent,  our  buAlo  differ  ftnom  rhem  in  aavofml  mal»> 
ri|il  traita  of  oharaoter  and  habtta.  T.ioae  of  tha  ea^aro 
oontinant,  ara  Mid  to  have  "  amall  heade,  with  home  ao  wida 
Mpraad,  that  three  men  can  eit  between  thenv—that  thair 
«jm  ara  amall,  red  and  Aery— that  they  have  a  hump  upon 
thair  bauka  like  a  camel,  and  which  is  preferred  lobe  eat. 
an  lor  ita  dalioaoy— 4hat  they  are  fiarue  and  vindictive,  ao 
ttm  men  have  to  fly  to  treea  for  safety — that  tha  bulla  and 
oows  live  in  aaparate  bands."  Thcae  thinga  do  not  oorraa* 
^ood  with  tha  buflklo  or  bison  of  our  weatem  prairiaa. 

Tha  buflkloa  or  biaons  of  our  ooantry  are  generally  about 
B«  large  aa  our  dotnastio  neat  cattle,  and  the  long,  shaggy, 
woolly  hair  which  covers  profuaely  their  head,  neck,  and 
ohouldera,  giveathem  an  impoaing  appearance,  at  •  diataooa 


mtm 


M  would  b«  Im- 
I  I  wa«  |i«a«ln{[ 
'ing  MN>n  thouv- 
I  hud  month*  of 
>  ikH  think  th«y 
t  of  ihfl  rantern 
iia  hav«  k'voo  * 
int.  Th'j  fleah 
ry  un|MiUt«bt0 } 
nooth  t^»•th«»^— 
ttmn  i«  no  nwth< 
ng  up  aoTM)  tin> 
arokan  down  by 
n  gored  to  d«*th 
Rir  foel."  It  b 
"  But  noiM  of 
ountry. 
imm  of  th«  Mai- 

of  th*  oMtfm 
th  horiM  K>  whb 
benv-othat  tlMir 
ve  ft  hump  upon 
ferrad  tobeaftt. 
id  vindictive,  ao 
•t  th«  bulla  wad 
^  do  not  oomM* 
rn  pnitriaa. 
generftUy  about 
M  long,  ahaggy, 
h«ad,  n«ok.  aitd 
oe,  at  a  diatanoo 


AMMIIJ. 


MS 


.Uiing  Ilk.  ih«  llo«.     Probably  thara  ia  nol  any  animal 

k  Iha  world,  that  praaoota  ao  appwiranoa  ao  (brmWakU 
•ad  l.irriflo,  a«  tha  buffalo  bull,  whan  asuilad  and  datarmi«' 
ad  upon  raaiatanoa. 

Thalr  oolor  la  a  dark  brown,  whan  ihay  ara  in  tha  bail 
oondition  for  rt^baa,  which  ia  from  Novombar  unUl  Janua- 
ry.     Am  tha  aaawo  advaiioaa,  their  woolly  fur  Incroaaaa  in 
laogth  aitd  aaaumea  a  palo  color ;  but  aftar  ahod4ling  thair 
ooat,  their  fur  ia  very  nhort  awl  nearly  black.     Ia  many 
partioulara  th«y  rcaemblo  our  homed  cattle  ;  they  are  oUi- 
van  looted,  chaw  tha  cud,  and  aeleot  the  aaine  kind  of  fixxl. 
Th«lr  ilesh  U  ta  appea-anco  and  taite  much  Ilka  beef,  but 
of  auparior  flavor,  and  remarkably  eaey  of  dlgcetlon.    Thair 
baada  ara  formed  like  th*  ox,  perhapa  a  lltUa  more  round 
•ad  broad,  and  whoa  runniag,  they  carry  them  rather  Uwr. 
Thalr  h<wna,  aara,  and  oyoa,  aa  aeea  through  their  ahaff/ 
balr,  appear  aroall,  and  when  cleared  from  thair  oovorlng, 
they  are  not  large.     Thair  l^a  and  feet  are  aroall  and  trim. 
Ham  for*  loga  covered  with  tha  long  lialr  of  the  ehouldera 
M  low  down  aa  th*  knee.     Though  their  figure  la  olumay 
b  appearanoe,  yet  they  run  awlftly  and  for  a  long  tlroo 
Without  graaUy  alaokening  their  apeod  ;  aod  in  aacendiag 
■Map  hilla  or  nouatalna  they  more  than  equal  the  beat  bor- 
aa*.    They  uoile  in  herd*,  and  when  feeding,  scatter  over 
a  larg*  apaca,  but  when  fleeing  (Vom  danger,  they  collect 
tniA  deaa*  columoa,  aad  having  once  laid  their  oourao,  ara 
not  eaaily  divertwl  fh>m  it,  whatever  may  oppoae  ;  and  in- 
daad  It  ir""««  b*  done  with  aafety  to  tbomaelve* ;  for  ahould 
the  fcrwVMt  halt,  or  turn  directly  from  their  oourae,  \in 
dawe  mrr  ia  th*  rear  raahiog  on  would  overthrow  and  da- 
ftroy  them.   They  can  change  their  direction  only  by  uking 
a  oinMiitouft  oourae.    Their  aenae  of  amelling  la  very  acute, 


mtn'^ 


fW^ri^.i  iPW'i"  ""M"!!  "■  mW" 


■MHiiii.n  miiiiin  iiwiijwwninwiwrwiiwwWjwwuiWBiii 


I 


til 


AlflKAU. 


•nd  they  perceive  the  hunter,  when  he  i»  on  the  windw»rd 
side,  at  a  great  distance,  the  alarm  is  Uken,  and  when  any 
of  them  manlfert  fear,  they  are  thrown  into  oonfuaion  until 
•ome  of  the  cows,  from  the  instinct  of  fear,  take  the  lead  to 
flee  from  the  pursuer,  and  then  all  follow  at  the  top  of  their 
•peed.    So  far  are  they  fK)m  being  a  fierce  and  revengeful 
acimal,  that  they  are  very  shy  and  timid  ;  and  in  no  case 
did  I  see  them  offer  to  make  an  attack,  except  in  self  de- 
fense  when  wounded  and  closely  pursued,  and  then  they 
always  sought  the  first  opportunity  to  escape.     When  they 
run  they  lean  alternately  from  one  side  to  the  other.     The 
herds  are  composed  promiscuously  of  bulls  and  cows,  eK- 
oept  some  of  the  old  bulls,  which  are  often  found  by  them- 
selves  in  the  rear  or  in  advance  of  the  main  bands.     SMme- 
times  an  old  blind  one  is  seen  alone  and  separated  from  all 
others ;  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  their  constemaum  when 
they  apprehend  the  approach  of  danger.    The  natural  in- 
stiDcto  of  fear  and  prudence  lead  them  to  fly  alternately  in 
every  possible  direction  for  safety.    I  was  pleased  to  find 
our  most  thoughtless  young  men  respect  their  age  and  pity 
their  calamity ;  for  in  no  instance  did  I  see  any  abuse  oflfer. 
ed  them.    They  are  fond  of  rolling  upon  the  ground  like 
horses,  which  is  not  practiced  by  our  domestic  cattle. 
This  is  80  much  their  diversion,  that  la^e  places  are  found 
without  grass  and  considerably  excavated.     The  use  of 
dieir  skins  for  robes,  and  the  woolly  fur,  with  which  they 
•re  covered,  are  so  universally  known,  that  a  description  ia 
entirely  unnecessary.    Another  peculiarity  which  belongs 
to  them  is,  that  they  never  raise  their  voice  above  a  low 
bellow  ;  in  no  indtahce  were  we  disturbed  by  their  lowing, 
even  when  surrounded  by  thousands,  and  in  one  of  our  cn- 
oampments,  it  was  supposed  there  were  five  thousand  near. 


I 


iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 


iiwiiiiawiiMiBtiss^^ 


nmm 


1 


mmtm 


I  the  windward 
and  when  any 
oonfuaion  until 
take  the  lead  to 
the  top  of  their 
and  revengefal 
and  in  no  caae 
lept  in  self  de< 
and  then  they 
e.    When  they 
the  other.    The 
s  and  cows,  ex- 
found  by  them- 
I  bands.    Sbme- 
[«rated  from  all 
iatemati<m  when 
rhe  natural  in- 
ly alternately  in 
I  pleased  to  find 
eir  age  and  pity 
any  abuse  ofSbt- 
the  ground  like 
domestic  oattllB. 
places  are  found 
d.     The  use  of 
with  which  they 
t  a  description  is 
ty  which  belongs 
}ice  above  a  low 
[  by  their  lowing, 
in  one  of  our  en- 
re  thousand  near. 


Km  .III 


Jill   I  'III         J 


AHlXJiLS. 


ii* 


It  has  been  said  they  do  not  visit  any  of  the  districU  formed 
of  primitive  rooks.  This  is  said  without  reason,  for  I  saw 
them  as  frequently  in  those  distriolB,  in  proportion  to  their 
extent,  as  where  other  formations  existed.  It  is  also  said 
that  as  they  recede  from  the  east  they  are  extending  west. 
This  is  also  incorrect  j  for,  as  I  have  before  said,  their  lim- 
its are  becoming  more  and  more  circumscribed.  And  if  ^ 
they  should  continue  to  diminish  for  twenty  years  to  come, 
as  they  have  during  the  last  twenty,  they  will  become  al- 
most extinct. 

•  It  is  unpleasant  to  co&template  the  period,  when  this  no- 
ble  animal  will  be  seen  no  more,  and  will  be  known  only 
in  history  and  seen  only  upon  canvass.  Thousands  and 
hundreds  of  thousands  are  slain  yearly,  not  for  food,  but  for 
lobes,  to  gratify  the  luxury  of  civilized  men,  as  is  seen  ia 
almoat  every  vehicle  for  business  or  pleasure. 


1 


,; 


..|l>l|>,l.«.M<mM,H>lll»l»MliP<»»<l»l|l,li|^l»» 


.  itiiwi   itmvM  »!■■ 


sia 


CHAPTER  XV. 

fUi— <loMriptioa  of  MklmoD— nimon  fiaher/— ornithology —dendroU 
ogy— •brablMi7<— nnuitiva  luoU  g»og>«phy— -mountiiiM— Tmlioy 
— i^aiii»— foreato— HriTera— loil — waaonii. 

I  FASs  to  %  brief  notice  of  the  fish  found  in  th*  watera  of 
the  Columbia.  Their  number  is  great,  but  their  variety  is 
small.  The  salmon,  sturgeon,  anchovy,  rock  ood,  andttout 
are  all  that  came  under  my  particular  observation.  Shad 
have  not  been  found  in  tltese  weiAem  waters.  The  stuT' 
geon  of  good  quality  and  in  large  nnmbers,  ccmtmenoe  as- 
cending the  rivers  in  the  fore  part  of  Aprit,  and  furnish  food 
to  the  suffering  Indians.  I  say  suffering,  for  before  the 
opening  of  the  spring,  their  stock  of  provisions  is  consumed, 
and  they  are  seen  searching  for  roots  and  any  thing'  which 
will  sustain  life ;  and  though  I  do  not  feel  authorized  to 
say  what  others  have  said,  that  in  the  latter  part  of  the  win< 
ter  and  beginning  of  spring,  they  die  with  starvation  in  great 
numbers,  yet  they  are  brought  to  extreme  want,  and  look 
forward,  with  great  solicitude,  to  the  time  when  the  stuiigeon 
shall  come  into  the  river.  A  small  fish,  like  the  anchovy, 
about  six  inches  long,  very  fat  and  well  flavored,  come  into 
the  river  in  great  numbers  about  the  same  time  or  a  littla 
before  the  sturgeon.  The  Indians  obtain  large  quantitiea  of 
oil  from  them  b]i[  putting  them  into  a  netting  strainer  anS 
exposing  them  to  gentle  heat. 

The  rock  codfish  were  not  known  to  inhabit  the  watara 


ll/)|iiLilMiii,  ■■tj«icai4!kSiiMMtia.".J  J.U  JJIIililllimiii^Ml 


Hiltt 


ijiijiii^liaiiliiirft' 


nitbology  -  dend  roU 
moontiiii*— Tmli«7a 


I  in  Um  watera  of 
It  their  variety  is 
wkood,  andirout 
senratioa.  Sliad 
ten.  The  etur- 
8,  commeMse  as- 
,  and  furnish  food 
g,  for  before  the 
lone  is  consumed, 
any  thing  which 
sel  authorized  to 
r  part  of  the  win< 
tarvation  in  great 
e  want,  and  look 
rhen  the  Btuigeon 
ike  the  anchovy, 
ivored,  come  into 
le  time  or  a  littla 
uge  quantities  of 
Ing  strainer  anS 

nhabii  the  watars 


p""^ 


ruM. 


317 


about  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  unUJ  the  present  year. 
They  are  very  fine  and  easily  caught. 

The  salmon  is  far  the  most  numerous  and  valuable  fish 
found  in  these  waters,  and  is  of  excellent  flavor.     It  is  well 
ascertained  that  there  are  not  less  than  six  different  species 
or  varieties  of  the  true  salmon  that  ascend  these  waters, 
commencing  about  the  twenUeth  of  April.     Their  muscular 
power  is  exceedingly  great,  which  is  manifested  in  passing 
the  falls  and  rapids  which  would  seem  insuperable.     They 
are  never  known  to  return,  but  are  constantly  pressing  their 
way  upwards,  so  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to  find  them  in 
the  small  branches  of  the  rivers  near  the  very  sources. 
We  found  them  in  September  near  theRocky  Mountains, 
where  they  are  said  to  be  as  late  as  November  and  Decern- 
ber.    I  saw  some  with  parts  of  their  heads  worn  to  the  bone 
and  the  skin  worn  from  various  parts  of  their  bodies,  which 
appeal*  to  be  the  result  of  efforts  to  ascend  until  they  per- 
ish.    Late  in  the  season,  great  numbers  are  found  dead, 
furnishing   food   for   crows,  vultures,  eagles,   foxes  and 
wolves— and  even  Indians;   for  I  have  seen  them  drive 
away  the  oiows  and  appropriate  the  remnants  to  them, 
selves.     Whe»  the  salmon  become  much  emaciated,  the 
fledi  loses  its  rich  redness  and  it  is  seen  in  the  skin,  which 
gives  the  fish  a  beautiful  appearance ;  but  when  in  this 
■late  it  is  hardly  edible.    It  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  th« 
salmon  has  its  preferences  of  water,  selecting  some  branoh- 
as  of  the  ColumUa  river  and  passing  by  othets ;  and  those 
taken  in  some  of  the  tributary  streams  are  for  better  then 
thoM  taken  in  others.    While  those  which  ascend  the  riv- 
ers never  returai  the  young  are  seen  in  September  descend- 
ing  on  their  way  to  the  ocean,  in  immense  numbers.    It  Is 
believed  these  return  the  fourth  year  after  their  desoeitt ; 


tii^f^imimmmn 


MS 


but  thia  iMy  be  only  oonj«onii«.  It  k  difBoult  to  Mtinwt* 
how  many  Mlmoa  might  b*  Uken  intheM  riven,  if  proper 
iiMMunM  were  pursuod ;  and  alw  what  would  be  the  re. 
Milta  upon  the  number*  which  would  continue  to  enter  mm! 
Moend.  I  think  without  doubt  »  plan  might  be  deviaed 
and  adopted  to  carry  on  a  Mlnoon  fiahery  in  thie  river  to 
good  advantage  and  profit.  The  experiment  was  made  by 
a  company  from  the  United  States,  which  failed,  for  it  con. 
tained  the  elemente  of  ite  own  overthrow.  The  company 
■ent  out  large  quantities  of  rum,  probably  calculating  on 
the  &ot  that  the  Indiana  are  fond  of  ardent  spirita,  and  if 
they  should  gratify  thia  appetite,  they  ahould  enlist  them  in 
their  fttvor,  and  aa  Indians  will  do  anything  for  rum,  they 
would  oatoh  and  aell  fiah  to  them.  Whatever  the  object  of 
ik»  company  might  have  been  in  aending  and  dealing  oat 
80  much  nun,  the  Indiana  were  highly  pleaaed  with  receiv. 
ing  it  in  pay  for  their  aalmon.  But  when  they  had  thus 
obtained  it  they  would  become  intoiicated  and  diaqualified 
for  labor,  and  mova  time  was  wasted  in  druakannaaa,  than 
mmfiayd  in  fiahing.  Beaidaa,  the  salmon  were  ohm  auf> 
iiiMd  to  lia  in  the  hot  aun  unil  they  were  much  injured,  if 
not  wdKriily  spoiled.  The  saault  waa,  that  the  oenpany,  aa 
I  WM  intensd,  obtained  only  about  imr  iMBdved  barreb 
of  salmoB,  and  made  a  kdag  ▼oyage ;  and  the  sapwintend. 
fM  of  Fort  VaBooavar  toM  lae,  that  when  the  eompmy 
abandonad  tiiair  business,  thay  atored  many  banala  of  ruai 
at  his  fost.  My  infomatiaa  was  not  wholly  darived  tktm 
tlMie  who  had  been  in  tfie  «nti|HoynMnt  of  that  oon^paay, 
aad  gaatlnnaB  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  but  in  pait 
from  the  Indiana,  f1*>  oAen  spoke  to  ma  npea  the  suhjoel 
by  way  of  praise,  lliey  would  say,  «<  cte9,  ilnw  Am,"  aig. 
Bifjring,  good,  phiity  of  ram. 


ssnecanan 


mtm 


k^. 


Boult  to  MtiiiMto 
I  riren,  if  proper 
rould  be  th«  ra< 
loue  to  enter  wad 
night  be  deviaed 
'  in  thi«  river  to 
Hit  WM  made  bjr 
failed,  for  it  con* 
The  company 
y  ealoulating  on 
nt  apirits,  and  if 
lid  enlist  them  in 
ig  for  ram,  they 
tver  the  object  of 
and  dealing  oat 
ued  with  reoeir« 
n  they  had  thus 
and  diaqualifiad 
•unkrnneaa,  than 
k  were  ohm  tuU 
mttoh  injand,  if 
Ihs  oenpany,  as 
hondrad  bamla 
tb*  MperintendU 
n  the  oompaay 
rtemlaof  ran 
ly  dMitred  flnwa 
f  tl»t  oon^paay, 
lay,  bnt  in  pan 
ipoa  the  aakgael 
»,  Mm  Am,"  aig. 


OSKITBOUMT. 

The  bird*  of  Oregon  are  not  aa  numeroua  ae  thoae  which 
inhabit  civilized  oountriea,  probably  beoauae  they  have  not 
aooaae  to  the  ^rain  and  firuit  of  oultivated  fields,  and  the 
wooda  and  groves  are  more  widely  dispeised.     But  they 
are  sufficiently  numerous  to  employ  an  ornithologist  profit'' 
ably,  for  a  great  length  of  time  in  collecting  and  preserving 
specimens.     This  region  is  particularly  interesting  from 
the  fact,  that  in  this  as  in  other  departments  of  natural  soi> 
enoe,  it  has  hitherto  been  an  unexplored  field— -iw  compe- 
tent  scientific  poraon  having  visited  ttiis  country  to  classify 
the  difierent  genera  and  species.     Mr.  J.  K.  Townsend,  of 
Philadelphia,  an  ornithologist,  has  spent  two  years  in  ex. 
amining  scientifically  this  field,  and  will  probably  give  to 
the  public  the  result  of  bis  labors.    I  am  indebted  to  him 
for  assistance  in  the  following  summary. 

The  largest  part  of  the  feathered  race  are  migratory, 
and  are  seen  only  a  part  of  the  year ;  there  are  many,  how- 
ever, Uiat  reside  here  during  the  whole  year.  Among  these 
are  the  majestic  white-headed  eagle,  and  the  golden  ea^, 
and  three  or  four  species  of  hawks,  two  iqpeoies  of  jay,  the 
magpie,  Comu  fka,  and  thooaaads  of  ravens  and  orowa ; 
several  species  of  small  sparrows,  and  two  «r  three  species 
of  grouse,  the  oommou  partridge  of  the  United  States,  and 
the  dusky  gnmsa  of  the  Rooky  Mountains;  and  also  an  in- 
ttfcating  species  of  the  dipper  or  water  ousel.  The  hafate 
of  this  bird  are  very  curious  and  peculiar,  particularly  that 
of  descending  to  the  bottom  of  ponds  and  swiftly  ninoing 
^roanw.  and  thare  in  aeaioh  of  small  shell-fiidi,  remaining 
inder  water,  for  at  least  two  minutes,  during  which  time 
it  will  aourae  about  upon  the  pebbly  bottom,  with  aa  muoh 
apparent  eaae  and  satisfiwtioa,  as  if  upon  dry  land.  The 
xed.wioged  blaok-l^  ju^Lt}ioj»bi||  cm^^  throogb  tiw 


f    "■■' 


iii 


^fmmmmtt^fwm"'''* 


'•mm<m—r<''Mmmmmm 


OlITTBOLOtfT. 

y««r.    Th«  notes  of  th«  latter  are  heard  even  in  the  chill 
of  the  winter,  though  in  fiseble  straina. 

Ae  the  Autumn  advances,  the  number  of  awnne,  geeae, 
.  and  ducks  multiply.  1  have  already  mentioned  these  wa- 
ter fowl.  The  black  cormorant  is  common  upon  the  Co. 
lumbia  river,  and  there  are  other  species  of  the  same  genus, 
seen  about  the  shores  of  the  Cape,  which  do  not  ascend  the 
rivers.  Among  theae  is  the  violet  green  cormorant,  the 
moat  splendid  of  all  the  known  species  of  cormorants.  The 
loon,  or  great  northern  diver,  is  very  plentiful  in  this  river. 
Gulls,  terns,  auks,  and  petrels,  in  great  numbers,  visit  this 
river  to  seek  shelter  from  (he  violent  storms  which  agitate 
the  ocean  during  the  winter. 

The  spring,  with  rising  vegetation  and  opening  flowers, 
brings  its  hosts  of  lovely  feathered  tribes,  which  remain  for 
different  periods  of  time ;  many  of  them  continue  only  a 
few  weeks,  and  then  retirs  to  other  parts  for  nidifioatkm. 
There  are,  however,  great  numbers  that  remain  through 
the  summer,  and  their  delightful  songs  add  to  the  obartna 
of  a  fine  morning  of  April  and  May.  Among  these  are 
hundreds  of  warblers,  wrena,  titmice  and  nuthatohea.  Of 
the  wvrUera  there  are  eleven  apeoiea,  aix  of  which  are 
new ;  the  other  five  are  common  to  the  States.  Several  of 
the  apeoiea  are  but  transient  visitors,  but  moat  of  them  re> 
main  through  the  seaaon.  Of  the  wrena  there  are  aix  ape- 
oiea ;  three  of  the  titmice,  and  two  of  the  nuthatchea.  And 
in  the  train  follow  the  thrushn,  of  which  there  are  aeven 
apeoiea,  two  of  which  are  new ;  of  theae  Wilaon^a  thnah  is 
pre-eminent  in  aweetneaa  of  song.  The  fly  catchers  num- 
ber eight  apeoiea,  three  of  which  are  new ;  and  there  are 
thirteen  apeoiea  of  the  finch(>s,  three  of  which'  are  new. 
Theae  are  a  large  and  muucat  bond,  among  r^hich  are 


iiiilii 


iiiiili 


gggl^jgglggil 


ven  in  the  chill 

>r  awnns,  geeae, 
toned  theae  wt- 
m  upon  the  Co. 
the  same  genua, 
>  not  aaoend  the 
cormorant,  the 
innorants.  The 
ful  in  this  river, 
mbera,  viait  thia 
t  which  agitata 

tpening  flowera, 
hich  remain  for 
sontinue  only  a 
for  nidification. 
remain  through 

to  the  cbarma 
mong  these  are 
luthatohea.  Of 
(  of  which  are 
M.  Several  of 
aat  of  them  re- 
ere  arc  aiz  ape- 
ithatchea.  And 
here  are  seven 
ilaon*^a  thnah  ia 
'  catchers  nam> 

and  there  are 
trhich*  are  neir. 
long  vhich  atfe 


■HP 


■•■IM 


OBJfOBOLOOy. 

aevonl  of  the  fiwNrt  aongHlora  linown  in  the  world.    Ia  no 
inaUnoe  do  we  find  more  riohnew  und  delicaoy  of  plumage, 
with  the  moat  aroet  melody  of  voice,  than  in  a  new  apecies 
of  largo  bullfinch,  which  visiu  thia  aeotion  of  country  in  the 
apring.     If  theae  were  domostjoated,  they  would  form  a 
moat  valuable  addition  to  any  aviary.     There  are  eight 
apeoiea  of  woodpeokera,  four  of  which  are  new ;  and  of  the 
awallow  tribe  there  are  five  apeoiea,  one  of  which  ia  new, 
and  ia  the  most  beautiful  of  the  family,  characterized  by  a 
aplendid  changeable  green  plumage  on  the  head  and  back, 
while  the  other  parta  are  purple  and  white.     About  the 
middle  of  March,  the  splendid  little  Ndotka  humming  bird 
makea  hia  appearance,  coming  ao  auddenly  that  you  won- 
der from  whence  he  came,  aa  the  fact  of  hia  performing  a 
long  migration  of  week*,  with  his  delicate  little  winga,  over 
a  cold  and  flowerleaa  country,  or  acroaa  the  aea,  aeema  in. 
credible.    The  neck  of  thia  beautiful  bird  presents  fine  va- 
riationa  of  color ;  now  it  ia  ruby  red,  with  a  metallic  luatra ; 
turn  it,  ai     tho  tinU  vary  from  purple  to  violet  and  crimaon, 
aooordmg  aa  the  light  falla  upon  it. 

I  paaa  over  the  mention  of  many  genera,  aod  still  more 
aumerooa  apeoiea  of  the  different  birds  of  this  ragioo,  as  it 
is  not  my  design  to  attempt  a  history  of  them,  but  only  to 
give  a  suooinot  sketch,  that  aome  idea  may  be  ^rmed  of  the 
ornithological  treasures  of  this  interesting  country. 

Having  frequently  made  menticm  of  the  trees  and  shrub- 
bery west  of  the  great  mountains,  I  shall  in  this  place  only 
enumerate  the  principal,  describing  a  few.  I  have  mM 
there  are  three  species  of  fir,  and  that  they  ooasthute  flir 
the  greatert  part  of  the  forest  trees,  and  are  very  laiKe. 
The  three  kinds  are  the  red,  yellow  and  white.    They  dif- 

fiir  not  oaly  ia  the  oolor  of  the  wood,  but  also  ia  their  Miage. 

80 


.   \ 


m^pnwittiimHffiilfft 


HilHWr  • 


Mi       *  SKraMLoer. 

TIm  fcliag*  of  UMrtdia  MMttoradoo  all  iidM  of  the  branch, 
late  in  Um  mum  fonn  m  Umm  found  in  th*  UniUMi  StolM ; 
the  7«llow  only  on  th«  upper  tidn,  or  Um  upper  half  of  the 
twige ;  the  white  ie  oppoeitely  pinnated.  The  baliam  ia 
alike  in  the  three  diflerent  epeciea,  found  in  bliaten  upon 
the  bark  in  the  eame  form  as  in  other  oountriee. 

White  pine  ia  not  native  in  the  lower  country,  nor  ftur 
weet  of  the  main  chain  of  the  Rooky  Mountain* ;  a  few 
pitoh  are  found  in  the  eame  region  with  the  white.  Nor- 
way and  yellow  pine  are  native  flirther  weet,  but  not  below 
the  Caacadee  of  the  Columbia.  The  new  speciee,  which  I 
have  called  the  elastic  pine,  is  for  the  rooet  nnmerous,  but 
I  did  not  sse  any  of  theee  as  for  west  as  Walla  Walla. 

The  oedar  is  the  common  speciee,  grows  very  large  and 
tall,  and  is  the  best  of  the  forest  treee  for  various  mechani- 
cal uses.  The  yew  is  also  found  among  the  evergreens, 
though  it  is  scarce.  The  tamarisk  is  found  in  small  see- 
tkNM  of  the  country.  The  white  oak  of  good  quality,  and 
often  large,  is  a  common  tree  of  tne  foreet,  and  also  the 
black,  rough-baiked  oak  growo  in  some  of  the  mountainous 
parts.  In  an  excursion  down  the  rich  prairies  below  Port 
Vancouver,  where  there  are  treee  scattered  about  like  shade 
trees  upon  a  well  cultivated  flirro,  I  measured  a  white  oak, 
which  was  eight  feet  in  diameter,  continued  large  aboot 
thirty  foet  high,  and  than  branched  out  immensely  wide, 
under  which  Mr.  T.  and  mysslf,  with  our  borMs,  found  an 
excellent  shelter  during  a  shower  of  rain.  There  are  tvo 
kinds  of  ash,  the  oontmon  whiu  ash  and  the  broad  loafed. 
The  latier  is  very  hard.  There  is  also  alder,  which  I  have 
mentkned  as  g*o«ring  vory  large,  and  on  dry  ground  aa  well 
as  on  that  which  is  lew  and  swampy. 

Tbaro  are  three  species  of  poplar,  the  oonuaoB  aqten,  the 


•  of  UwbnkDoh. 
I  United  StolM ; 
ffmt  hair  of  Um 
The  Ulwm  ia 
n  bliaton  apon 
riM. 
country,  nor  tkr 
untnina ;  a  faw 
M  whits.  Nor- 
It,  but  not  below 
•peciea,  which  I 
t  nnmaroua,  but 
ralla  Walla. 
i««ry  large  and 
arioua  meohani. 
the  eTargreeni, 
id  in  nnall  aee* 
ood  quaUtjr,  and 
et,  and  alao  the 
the  mountainoua 
iriee  below  Port 
about  like  ahade 
red  a  white  oak, 
ued  large  about 
mmenaelx  wide, 
borMe,  found  an 
There  are  two 
he  broad  leaM. 
w,  whioh  I  have 
f  ground  aa  well 

RunoB  aqten,  the 


cotton,  and  balm.    The  Artt  is  oommon  in  various  parts  of 
the  United  States,  and  is  well  known ;  the  second  is  common- 
ly called  ootton-wood,  skirting  rivers  and  strsams  as  in  the^ 
western  States ;  the  third  is  the  Popuhu  haUamtfera,  often 
ealled  the  balm  of  Oilead.     Ita  distinguishing  properties 
are  ovate  leaves,  and  a  bitter  balsam  in  a  glutinous  stale 
found  in  the  small  twigs,  but  mostly  in  the  buds.     This  last 
species  in  some  places  spreads  over  large  sections  of  bottom- 
land, where  the  soil  is  unoommonly  good.     White  maple  is 
found,  but  only  in  sm  ill  quantities.     Willows  of  various 
species  are  oommon  in  all  para  ef  the  country.     There  is 
a  tree  in  the  lower  country  which  grows  much  in  die  form 
of  the  laurel  or  bay  tree,  but  much  larger— 4he  bark  ia 
smooth  and  of  a  red  bay  color,  ita  leavee  are  ovata.     It  has 
been  called  the  strawberry  tree,  but  I  do  not  know  with  what 
propriety.    There  are  no  walnut  or  hickory  treee  west  of 
the  great  mountains,  nor  chestnut  of  any  species,  or  hard 
or  stigar  maple,  or  beach,  linden  or  baas- wood,  black  oherry, 
cucumber,  white  wood,  elms,  or  any  kind  of  birch,  except 
a  species  of  Mack  birch  which  grows  sntall ;  nor  are  there 
any  of  the  species  of  locusts,  hackborry,  or  buckeye.    I 
might  lengthen  out  Um  catalogue  of  negatives,  but  the  above 
obeervatkms  are  suiRcient  to  give  a  general  view  of  the  for- 
eet  trees  of  the  country. 

The  varieties  of  shrubbery  and  planta  are  so  nnnie?0U8, 
that  their  examiuttioB  would  employ  the  botanist  many 
moBthe.  I  shall  only  dtetoh  a  few  of  thoee  which  are  eoattor- 
ed  over  the  prairies  and  through  the  forests.  Among  tReee 
are  several  varietiee  of  the  thorn-bush,  many  of  whioh  are 
large  and  fruitfbl.  Those  bearing  the  red  apple,  prseent, 
when  they  are  ripe,  a  very  beautifiil  appearance.  Hwre  is 
one  speoiee  peculiar  to  the  country  west  of  the  mountains,  the 


-'^■•fllpl 


^m>m 


SS4 


FLAjn*. 


flruU  of  wMoh  i«  black  ami  of  •  delightfully  sweet  Uate,  b«4t 

Dfit  generally  diaperiMMl  through  the  country.     It  ia  prinJ- 

pally  Mtive  about  the  Blue  MounUioa,  the  Walla  \Valla 

and  UmnwtilU  riven.     The  choke  cherry  la  eiiommofi  to  all 

parts  of  the  country,  and  it*  f^uit  in  v«ry  grateftj)  whi^re  aDi> 

null  food  ia  principally  depended  upun  fur  •ubaiat«noe.     IIm 

nlalberry  ia  •  sweet  and  plesaant  fVuit,  of  »  dark  purple 

odor,  oblong,  and  about  the  sise  of  a  grape.     The  asr* 

rioeberry  ia  about  the  alxe  of  a  amall  thoni  Apple,  black 

when  fully  ripe,  and  pleasantly  aweet  lih«  the  whcirtleber. 

ry  ;  and  the  pambina  ia  a  buah  ennbnrry.     The  varietica 

of  tba  gooseberry  are  many — tlie  comfnon  prickly,  which 

grows  very  large  on  a  thonty  buah~-tbe  small  white,  which 

ie  smooth  and  very  aweet — the  large  smooth  pMrpfe,  and 

the  •mootli  yellow,  which  are  also  uf  a  line  flavor.     Alt  of 

theae  attaia  to  a  good  maturity,  and  thdise  growing  on  the 

prairiea  are  vary  auparior.     There  are  three  varietiea  of 

the  currant,  the  pale  red,  the  yellow,  which  is  well  tasted, 

aod  the  black.    Though  these  are  a  pleaaatit  acid,  yet  tbejr 

ara  not  ao  prollflo  and  desirable  ati  those  which  grow  under 

the  haad  of  ouUlvation.    The  boautiful  ahrub  Sys^Aorta 

netmom,  called  the  uiowberry,  which  ia  found  in  aonoe  of 

our  garden*,  growa  here  wild  and  in  great  abundance. 

Besides  the  common  raspberries,  there  is  a  new  species 
which  grows  io  the  forests,  th»b«ny  of  which  is  throe  times 
aa  Urga  as  the  common,  is  a  very  delicate  rich  yellow,  but 
the  flavor  is  less  agrsaabie.  There  is  a  new  species  of 
sw«et  elder  which  I  have  already  described.  The  olimbiug 
hooejrauckle  is  amon^  the  first  ornaments  of  nature. 

Tba  sweet  flowering)  pea  grows  spontaneously,  end  in 
some  places  embellishes  large  patches  of  ground.  In  some 
small  sections  red  clover  is  found,  differing,  however,  from 


.  a^PBBWPiiipWiiSlftMii*.  w*M^^«fc»wr.-. ' 


■■MMm 


SMB 


It  ia  princi 

immnn  to  all 
il  wh<^rfl  koi- 
«no0.  Ill* 
dark  purplo 
,  Th«  mt. 
tppte,  bl*ck 

V  v»ri«ti#ii 
okly,  which 
rhiUi,  whivh 
^•nrpk,  uitl 
I  or.  A.lt  of 
iring  oa  tho 
varietiea  of 
weU  tMted, 
lid,  y«t  lh»y 
grow  Ufwler 

SympAorta 
in  aoiiM  of 
idmnoa. 
MW  apeoies 
thraetimds 
yellow,  but 

Bpeoies  of 
te  olimbiug 
ire. 

ily,  end  in 

In  aoine 

'wx,  from 


i"iii.«»m.i,ifpy,rt.iiiii«iiii 


i 


i>3Mt.im. 


S3& 


Um  kind  oultivatad  by  our  &mMn,  but  not  Imb  aws*!  mm! 
bMutiful  ;  whit*  olovar  i«  fcund  in  iha  upper  and  nxHUi- 
taiooua  parta  fltrawbarriea  ar«  indigenuua,  and  thair  fl». 
vor  ia  mora  dalioioua  than  any  I  i«ya  taatad  in  othar  ooua. 
triaa. 

Sun-Aowars  ara  oontmon,  but  do  not  grow  iarga ;  alio  • 
■paoiaa  of  broom  «iom,  ia  (bund  in  many  plaoac  of  th*  boC 
lom-landa  of  tha  Columbia  and  othar  atraama.  To  tkaw 
nwy  bo  addad  %  wild  grain  aomewhat  r^aembling  b«rlay, 
or  rye.  Wild  fkx  I  have  mentioned  and  deaoribed  mi 
|wgeM. 

Among  the  nutritive  roota,  I  have  mtntioned  the  wlpp** 

too  and  tha  cammaa.     The  wkppatoo,  ia  the  aagMaria,  or 

arrow  h<sad,  and  ia  found  only  in  the  valley  of  the  Coluna< 

bin  below  the  Caacadea.     The  root  ia  bulboua,  and  bcooma* 

•oft  by  rotating,  forming  a  nouriahing  and  agrceaMa  food, 

ia  much  uitad  by  the  Indiana,  and  to  an  artiola  of  trMlt. 

It  grawa  in  ahallow  lakea,  and  in  marahea  which  are  oov. 

ared  with  rater.     The  Indian  women  wade  in  aearob  cf 

thla  root,  Hiel  ii  out  in  the  mud  and  diaangage  it  with  thair 

feet,  when  It  riaaa  to  tba  aurftioe  of  the  water  and  ia  aaourod. 

The  oamnua,  a  tunitwted  root,  in  the  form  of  an  ooioo,  ia 

of  great  im;ortanoe  to  the  Indiana  and  growa  in  moiat 

rioh  grousd.    It  ia  roaated,  pounded  and  made  into  loavco, 

and  dried,  and  haa  a  tarta  feaembling  licorice.     The  mm* 

iah,  or  biaouit  root,  growa  on  dry  land,  jomewkal  iMgor 

than  •  wahurt,  taatart  like  a  aweef  jptmnot  ia  p'vpartd  i« 

the  aoma  manner  for  food  a«  the  camgoaa^  and  ia  a  toW. 

able  aubatituta  for  braafa.      Tb  theaa  may  be  added  tho 

rmrne  amim,  or  bitt**-  root,  wiiiob  growa  on  dry  grouodf 

ia  fuaiform,  ain!  though  not  pleaaant  to  tha  taate,  m  very 

conduoiye  to  health  ;  alao  the  oommon  onion,  and  aoothM' 

20* 


: 


mumt. 

ohmfaUH*t4  by  Its  bMutifbl  ml  Ikmr,  wfitoh  0A**n  gfotr* 
upon  patohM  of  Tolouiio  Moria,  wh«r«  •»  otli*r  trgttotl— 

AhhouKh  «  dMoription  of  tha  <)i«ina  Twrilory  hu  baMi 
n«eMMrily  inlerwovKn  In  th«  narrative,  yrt  ■  non<l«<nar<l  ao- 
•ounl  of  ita  gonfraphy  may  wilh  propriety  ba  Riven  har« 
In  oomparing  Iha  ooantry  wm*  with  that  aaal  of  th«  moun- 
laina,  aapaoially  Iha  RrMi  valley  of  ih«  MMiaippi.  w«  am 
impitMaad  rtry  powerfully  with  th«  ntrong  contrast  whiah 
tkair  (iiatinguishing  featurwa  prewnl.     The  valley  of  tW 
MiasiMippi  mny  be  callw!  th<«  ganJ^n  of  the  worl'l— ovary 
part  abounding  in  rich  mil  inviting  cultivation.    Wa  wldoni 
•aa  any  barren  or  nwky  waatet,  any  Atr  eitended  swampa 
or  roarahea — no-fror^n  mounUina.     Deatltula  of  prominent 
land-marlia  to  oatoh  the  eye  of  the  traveler,  ho  eeea  ia  the 
wide  distanoa  before  him  only  the  almoat  horlaontal  linaa 
of  lava!  or  rolling  meadow.      No  one  polnta  him  to  thn 
paaka  of  dim  mounUine  and  telle  him  that  th«  range  di< 
vldaa  two  eiater  etatee,  or  leparaleii  two  noble  riven.     Up 
■aea  no  clouds  resting  on  the  shouliiara  of  ioAy  Butes  and 
blending  their  neutral  tint  with  the  hazy  blue  of  th««  land, 
aoape  before  him — nor  Telons  rearing  their  bja<!b«  iato  t}t« 
region  of  perpetual  snow — and  day  after  day  ho  pursues 
his  journey  without  any  thing  to  create  in  his  Uisom  emo* 
tiona  of  tba  grand  and  tba  sublime,  unless  it  be  the  vastnasa 
of  iba  expanse.  -*  '■•'♦">   - 

Bayond  the  Rooky  Mountains,  nature  appear*  to  lava 
studied  variety  on  the  largest  scale.  Towering  mountaina 
and  widely  extended  prairi«s,  rich  valleys  and  barrta 
plaina ;  and  large  riv«ira  with  rapUs,  eataraots  and  fiilla, 
preaenl  a  great  diversity  of  prospect.  Tlie  whole  country 
bi  so  mountainoua,  that  there  is  not  an  elevation  from  wbiok 


vrgaMlMi 


i  hM 

ivcn  haro. 
th«  mtNta* 

)p<,  W«  MV 

rmal  whlah 
l«y  or  t)M 
rlii-Hiir«fy 
W«  wldoni 
ltd  swampM 
'  proniin«nt 
M>«>a  in  fh« 
ontal  limw 
him  to  thn 
I  range  di- 
iven.  H9 
'  Butct  and 
f  tiM*  Und- 
id^ iato  t}t« 
ho  p^tnues 
io«om  emo- 
be  vaatiMH 

tra  to  liAve 
mouDtaiue 
ind  Iwmii 
■  knd  flille. 
Die  oouBtrjr 
from  wbioli 


■  p*nen  eimal  mm  eome  of  U.«  ImitMinM  r»im«a  whloh 
Intonwcl  lu  illflhrant  parta.  On  an  •UvalkMi  a  ahurt  dk- 
Umoe  from  Fort  Vanoouver,  Ave  laolatnd  wmtoal  mounlaina, 
fWmi  t»n  to  AAoen  thouaan<l  fMt  hlKh,  whoa*  tnpa  are  ooV' 
(•rad  with  p«rpntual  mow,  may  bo  aaon  riaing  In  tha  aur- 
rounding  valloy.  Thorn  aro  throe  |{«n«ral  rangea,  wnal  of 
tha  rooky  chain  of  fflountaina,  running  in  northern  and 
Nouthem  dlruotlona.  The  A  rat  abcivo  the  Falla  of  the  Oo< 
lumbia  river  ;  the  aooonc*  at  ami  lie  low  the  Caaoadea  ;  the 
third  towarda  and  along  th«  ahorea  of  the  PaolAo.  From 
eaoh  of  theae,  branohea  eitend  in  diflerent  direotiona.  Bo- 
aidea  thrao  tliere  are  othera  whioh  are  large  and  high, 
e^i  aa  the  Rtue  Mountaina  aoiith  of  Walla  Walla — the 
Salr^Hin  river  mountain*  between  the  Haim<fft  and  theOooo- 
(Ktots-iie  rivera  \  and  alao  in  the  regiona  of  Ukanagan  and 
Golvile. 

Between  theae  mountaina  aro  wide-aproad  valleya  and 
plaina.  The  lar|fwai  and  moat  fertile  vallny  ia  inoluded  be- 
tween  Ueor  laland  on  the  weat,  to  within  twelve  milea  of 
tbe  Caaoadea,  and  b  about  Afty-Ave  milea  wide,  and  extend- 
ing north  and  aoutb  to  a  greater  extent  than  I  had  the  mean* 
of  deAnitely  aaoertaining  ;  probably  from  Pugeta  aound  on 
tha  north,  to  the  Umbiquft  river  on  the  aouth.  Tho  Willa- 
mette river  and  a  aeotion  of  the  Columbia  are  inoluded  in 
thi*  valley.  Tha  valley  aouth  of  the  Walla  Walla,  called 
the  Grand  Round,  i*  aaid  to  excel  in  fertility.  To  thean 
may  be  added  Pierre'a  Hole  and  o^e  adjacent  conntry  ; 
alau  Racine  Am6re,  east  of  the  Salmon  river  mountain*. 
On  Mill  rivar,  which  unite*  with  the  Columbia  at  ColvUe, 
from  tha  aouth,  through  «  valley  of  mora  than  fifty  mila*r 
there  are  rich  bottom  land*.  While  theae  arn  open  and 
ready  for  cultivation,  tha  hiUa  00  bcfth  aide*  of  tlM  valley 


iiil 


wm 


^^|^^4f< 


USB 


roissTS—urSBS. 


•re  oovered  with  wood*.  Other  fertile  aeotioiu  of  oontid- 
erable  magnitude  are  dispersed  over  different  parts  of  the 
country.  To  these  may  be  subjoined  extensive  plains,  most 
of  which  are  prairies  well  covered  with  grass.  The  whole 
region  of  country  west  of  Salmon  river  mountains,  the 
Spokein  woods,  Okanagan,  and  quite  to  the  range  of  moun- 
tains which  cross  the  Columbia  at-  the  Fii)te>  is  a  vast 
prairie  oovered  with  grass,  aadtke  soil. !•  generally  good. 
Another  large  plain,  which  is  said  to  be  very  barren,  lies 
off  to  the  south  and  south-west  of  Lewis'  or  Snake  river, 
including  the  Shoshonee'  country  ;  and  travelers  who  have 
passed  through,  have  pronounced  the  interior  of  America 
a  great  barren  desert;  but  this  is  drawing  a  conclusion 
far  too  broad  fion^  premises  so  limited.  So  far  as  I  have 
had  opportunity  for  observation^  I  should  feel  warranted  in 
saying,  that  while  some  parts  of  Oregon  are  barren,  large 
portions  are  well  adapted  to  grazing ;  and  others,  tho'jgh 
leas  extensive,  are  adapted  to  both  tillage  and  grazing. 

Upcm  the  subject  of  forests,  I  would  only  observe,  that  a 
large  proportion  of  the  oo>\mtry  west  of  the  mountains  is 
destitute,  while  some  parts  tre  well  supplied.  I  have  al/ 
ready  mentioned  the  lower  09uutry,  from  below  the  Falls 
of  the  Columbia  to  the  ocean,  as  being  well  wooded,  and 
densely  in  many  parts,  especially  near  the  ocean.  The 
mountains  north  of  the  Salmon  river,  and  the  country  about 
the  Spokein  river,  and  so  on  still  fiurther  north,  are  well 
furnished  with  forests,  and  in  some  other  snotioos  there  at* 
partial  suf^lies. 

;,<  The  country  in  general  is  well  watered,  being  intersec- 
ted with  lakes,  and  by  manydarge  rivers  and  their  tributa- 
ry streams.  This  might  be  inferred  from  the  fi^t  that  tliere 
•re  so  many  mountains,  upon  the  sides  •nd  $i  the  bases  of 


».iw^i|iWM 


47- 

t6  * 


tnrns. 


929 


whioh  are  multitudes  of  the  fineat  «pring8.  No  country 
furnishes  water  more  pure  and  of  such  crystal  clearness. 
As  the  spring  and  summer  heat  commences,  the  snows  of 
the  mountains  melt,  and  begin  to  swell  the  rivers  in  the  be- 
ginning of  May,  and  the  freshet  continues  to  increase  until 
June,  when  it  is  the  greatest,  and  overflows  large  sections 
of  the  low  lands  of  the  valleys,  which  have  the  appearance 
of  inland  seaa.  While  the  rivers  of  this  country  are  nu> 
mcrous,  and  several  of  thorn  are  large,  yet  inland  naviga> 
tion  will  bo  attended  with  difficulties,  not  only  from  the  ma- 
ny falls  and  rapids,  but  from  the  labor  and  expense  neces- 
sary to  construct  canals  through  the  imnfensely  hard  ba- 
saltic rook  formation.  The  C!olumbia  has  three  large  falls 
in  the  distance  of  seven  hundred  miles ;  the  Cascades,  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  the  ocean  at  the  head  of  tide 
water ;  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  forty  miles  above  the 
Cascades ;  and  the  Kettle  Falls,  five  hundred  and  thirty 
ntiles  above  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia.  There  are  many 
rapids,  but  the  Nine-mile  Rapids,  thirty  miles  above  Walla 
Walla,  ars  the  most  embarrassing.  The  other  riven  are 
still  more  oL^ructed  with  Falls  and  rapids,  except  the 
Willamette,  wnloh  has  only  one  foil  at  the  head  of  its  tide 
water,  thirty  miles  above  its  juncticm  with  the  Columbia. 
The  obstruction  to  a  canal  around  this,  is  far  less  than 
around  the  above  named  falls ;  and  when  constructed,  the 
navigation  inay  be  extended  fifty  miles  farther  into  the 
country.  While  such  is  the  condition  of  this  country  in 
respect  to  its  internal  navigation  and  commerce,  the  inge- 
nuity of  man  in  our  day,  has  provided  something  which 
can  be  most  advantageomly  applied  as  a  remedy.  I  mean 
rail  roads.  In  making  observations,  with  reference  to  this 
very  subject,  I  waa  interested  ta  see  the  wisdom  and  benev- 


SM 


Til  nAlOKI* 


r»^ 


olenoe  of  th*  CrMtor,  in  providing  ptMWS  through  thoM 
stupendous  ntngw  of  mountains,  whioh  generally  run  from 
north  to  south,  end  I  thought  how  easily  the  whole  terri- 
tory might  be  traversed  in  this  way ;  and  the  large  pen 
tagonal  basaltio  oolunns  are  ready  at  hand  to  fiioilitate 
the  work.  No  country  in  the  world  furnishes  better  oppor. 
tunities  for  water  power  to  be  applied  to  manufiusturiog 
purposes ;  almost  every  river  and  stream  having  &lls,  oas* 
cades  and  r^>ids. 

The  climate  is  flir  more  temperate  and  warm  west  of 
the  Rooky  Mountains,  than  east  in  the  same  latitude,  there 
bein^  at  least  ten  degrees  diflbrenoe  of  latitude,  as  may 
be  seen  by  the  subjoined  metef/rologioal  iable.  There 
were  only  three  days  in  the  whole  winter  of  my  residence 
in  the  country,  that  the  thermometei'  sunk  as  low  m  38® 
Famheit,  at  Fort  Vancouver;  and  there  were  only 
two  mornings  In  the  whole  mtmth  of  March  when  white 
fhist  was  seen.  Snow  does  not  fiUl  deep  ezceptfaig  upon 
the  mountains ;  in  the  valleys  it  rarely  continues  more  than  - 
a  few  days,  or  at  the  farthest  only  a  few  weeks ;  and  by 
the  latter  part  of  February  or  the  firM  of  Bfarch,  ploughing 
and  sowing  are  commenced.  And  net  only  is  the  climate 
UDCommonly  del%htftil,  but  it  is  also  generally  healthy, 
and  there  are  soaroely  any  {Hevailing  diseases,  except  the 
fever  and  ague  in  the  lower  oountry,  whioh,  as  has  been 
stated,  oonunenoed  in  1639 ;  and  the  opthalmy,  winch  is 
v«ry  general  among  the  Indians  of  the  plains.  It  is  wor- 
thy of  notice,  that  thunder  and  lightning  are  seldom  wit- 
nessed west  of  the  great  mountains,  but  in  the  valley  of  the 
Misrisappi,  they  are  very  frequent  and  unusually  heavy. 

The  seasMis  are  divided  into  two,  the  rainy  in  the  winter, 
commencing  in  November,  and  terminating  in  May ;  the 


"PJIPII" 


nu  niLMNt. 


Ml, 


dry  in  the  aununer,  which  is  entirely  destitute  of  rain,  and 
during  whioh  time  the  «tinoq>here  ie  remarkably  eerene, 
while  the  daily  prairie  winds  relieve  the  heat  of  the  sun, 
and  the  season  is  most  delightful.  The  entire  destitution  of 
nin,  showers,  and  dew,  during  summer,  does  not  exclude 
fertility  ;  nor  is  it  peculiar  to  this  country,  for  the  same  is 
true  of  the  whole  Paoifio  coast  west  of  the  Andes,  and  also 
of  the  Sandwich  and  Society  Island*— yet  by  various  meth- 
ods of  irrigation  the  soil  is  rendered  productive.  In  the 
country  which  I  am  describing,  the  winter  being  ao  mild, 
the  grain  sown  in  the  &11  and  spring  advances  beymid  in- 
jury before  the  drouth  becomes  severe,  and  the  grass  attains 
its  growth  and  dries  into  hay  upon  the  ground ;  and  there 
being  no  moisture  to  decompose  it,  retains  its  nutritive 
properties. 

This  territory  is,  notwithstanding,  well  supplied  with  wa- 
ter ;  for  the  benevolent  wisdom  of  Qod  has  placed  the  moun* 
tains,  oovQred  with  perpetual  snows,  just  where  they  are 
needed,  and  where  the  heat  of  spring  and  summer  so  far 
melts  these  vast  reservtrfrs,  as  to  All  the  riven  and  streams, 
and  tJ^ie  summer  firssbM  continues  for  many  weeks. 


m^*  ■  u 


mKmmmmmmfm 


mwimnmmt^^m^mm^v^*  p m§ 


K 


S 


K 


i    K 


k. 


MS 


iHDUMs  <a  Tss  nains. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

CkarMter  •nd  o«nditioa  of  the  Indian*— Indiu)t  of  tho  plaint— their 
yuMoa—dnM—WMltb— habito— phjpiiekl  obaraetar— nanaftoturea 
—their  raUgioB—wara—vioaa— moral  diapoMUoD— tnpentitiooa— 
niodioino  men. 

As  it  wa*  tha  principal  object  of  my  tour  to  aacertato  the 
eharaoter  and  condition  of  the  Indians  beyond  the  Rooky 
Mountains,  their  aumbers,  and  the  prospects  of  establishing 
the  gospel  among  them,  it  will  not  only  be  proper  but  im- 
portant to  give  a  full  and  connected  description  of  them  in 
^Mss  leqieots.  In  doing  this,  while  I  have  availed  myself 
at  iaiurmatioa  eoUeoted  from  men  of  intriligeaoe  and  in- 
legrity,  I  have  oooAned  my  statements  to  those  things  whioh 
have  beoa  oorroborated  by,  or  came  under  my  own  ob- 
sarrations ;  fcellng  it  a  duty  to  avoid  the  many  ftbakms 
aooounts  which  have  been  given  of  Indian  character  and 
customs.  Romance  may  please  and  excite  admiration, 
fiction  may  charm,  but  only  truth  can  instruct. 
.  I  will  first  describe  the  Indians  of  the  plains.  These 
live  in  the  upper  country  from  the  AiUs  of  the  Columbia  to 
the  Rooky  Mountains,  and  are  called  .the  Indians  of  the 
plains,  because  a  targe  proportion  of  their  country  b  prairie 
land.  The  principal  tribes  are  the  Nez  Percys,  Cayuses, 
Walla  Wallas,  Bonax,  Shoshones,  Spokeins,  Platheads, 
CoBur  d'AldM,  Fbi^eivs,  Cootanies,  Keitle&Ils,  OkanaganS, 
and  Carriers.  These  do  not  include  probably  more  than 
one  half  of  those  east  of  the  Falls,  but  of  others  I  have  ob- 


iinr  ii •"(-"'— "■**'*^*** 


■iitli'iilfrir---^  '  ^■'^-—-■■-  -^— --'i^ 


rtbo  plain»-their 
tar—  nanaftoturM 
I— «npentitioo»— 

to  ascertain  the 
Mid  the  Rooky 

ofeatabliehing 
pnper  but  ini' 
tion  of  them  in 
availed  Biyaelf 
ligeaoe  and  in- 
se  things  whioh 
ir  my  own  ol»> 
many  ftbakms 

oharaoter  and 
ite  admiration, 

lOt. 

plains.  These 
he  Columbia  to 
Indians  of  the 
luntry  b  prairie 
sro^s,  Cayuses, 
ins,  Platheads, 
UsiOkanaganA, 
ftbly  more  than 
hers  I  have  ob- 


mmm 


998 


Uined  but  little  deanite  hMWIedge.  They  all  MSMnbU 
oMh  other  in  general  chaiaolerialioe.  In  their  persons  the 
men  are  tall,  the  women  are  of  oommon  stature,  and  both 
are  well  formed.  While  there  is  a  strong  natural  as  well 
as  moml  reaemblanoe  among  all  Indians,  the  ooroplexion  of 
these  is  a  little  iairer  than  oiber  Indiana.  Their  hair  and 
eyes  are  black,  their  oheek  lienes  high,  and  very  frequedt- 
ly  they  have  aquiline  noses.  Thei?  hands,  feet,  and  ankleib 
are  small  and  well  formed ;  and  their  movementa  are  easy, 
if  not  graoeful.  They  wear  their  hair  long,  part  it  upon 
their  forehead,  and  let  it  bai^  in  tresses  on  eaoh  aide,  or 
down  behind. 

Thwre  is  »great  r oianse  to  thedressof  dilTerent  tribes, 

w>hich  generally  consists  of  a.  shirt,  worn  over  long,  olons 
leggins,  with  moooasons  for  the  <b«t    TheM  are  of  dressed 
leather  made  of  the  skins  olf  Aew,  antelope,  moontam  goat 
,) ;  and  over  these  tlwy  wear  a  blanket  or  a  bu&le 
The  beiders  of  dMir  garments  m»  omamMited  with 
loag  fringes.  .  They  are  fiwd  of  omamants^nd  their  heads 
aad  gamenta  are  sometimMi  deoerated  with  fttttbeis,  baads^ 
bMteni^  and  poreupine  quilts ;  tbees  last  are  ooktrad  rad» 
y^lov,  blue,  and  blaek,  astd  work«d  wUh  great  skill  $ad 
variety  of  design.    They  ajipear  to  have  leas  of  the  props*- 
li^te  adorn  themselves  with  painting,  than  the  Indiana  ea|t 
of  the  mountains ;  but  not.  unfrequently  vennilioB,  miid^ 
Wiith  red  clay,  a  used  not  only  upon,  their  ftoe%  but  uppa 
tlieirhMr.    llie  dress  of  the  women  does  not  vary  muoh  from 
diat  of  the  men,  ese*ptin||^  that  inslefld  of  the  shirt,  Ihejr 
Iwvo  wl»t  we  may  call  a  fifook  ooniing  down  to  tt  5  anklas. 
Hany  of  them  wear  a  laiige  cape  made  of  drsssad  a^'m, 
9Bm  highly  onameat«d  with  lai|$e  oUong  bsaili  u,  oIim, 
rod^  puifle.  and  white,  arrayed  in  curved  linsa  covering 


•wr 


WIAI.TB. 


th*  whole.  Some  of  the  d»iighten  of  the  obieft,  when 
clothed  in  their  olean,  white  dreaeee  of  antelope  akins,  with 
their  fUUy  ornamented  oapea  coming  down  to  the  waiat,  and 
mounted  upon  apirited  ateeda,  going  at  ftill  apeed,  their  or- 
namenta  glittering  in  tlie  aun-beama,  make  an  aopearanoe 
that  would  not  louo  in  compariaon  with  equeatrian  ladiea 
of  the  eaat.  Their  horaea  are  not  leaa  finely  oapariaoned 
with  blue  and  acarlet  trimminga  about  their  heada,  breaata, 
and  loina,  hung  with  little  braaa  bells. 

While  a  want  of  oleanlineaa  ia  a  character' jtio  of  all  hea- 
then, the  Indiana  of  the  plaina  are  leaa  repreheoaible  than 
othen,  and  are  ikr  more  neat  than  thoae  of  the  lower  ooun< 
try  towarda  the  Paoifio.  It  ia  not  to  be  understood  that 
there  are  not  thoae  among  them  who  are  poor,  auflfering  fronL. 
the  want  of  find  and  clothing. 

Their  wealth  oonaista  in  their  horaea,  and  their  oonae* 
qtMBoe  dependa  in  a  great  degree  upon  the  number  diey 
poastaa,  aooie  owning  aereml  hundreda;  and  that  fiuooily 
ia  poor  whoae  fumben  are  not  auflicient  fer  erery  man, 
woman  and  child  to  be  mounted,  when  they  are  traveliug 
ftma  place  to  place ;  and  alao  to  carry  all  their  efiecta.  Ia 
thaae  reapeota  they  are  far  better  aupplied  than  any  tribes 
I  aaw  eaat  of  the  roountaina.  While  their  horaea  are  thair 
wealth,  they  derive  but  little  from  than  ibr  the  nipport  of 
.  tiMnMlrea  and  fiuniUea ;  for  they  do  not  employ  them  to 
oultiTale  the  earth ;  and  the  market  for  them  ia  ao  low,  that 
they  oonmand  but  a  email  price.  A  good  horae  will  not  aell 
fer  more  than  enough  to  purohaae  a  blanket,  or  a  few  amall 
artiolea  of  merohandiae.  For  aubaiatence,  they  neoeaHurily 
depend  upon  huatii^  and  fidiing,  and  gathering  roota  and 
borriea.  llirir  mode  of  cooking  ia  plain  and  aimple.  Moat 
of  their  foodie  roasted,  and  they  axoel  in  naatiogfiah.    Tha 


Mk 


mummmmmmttiimfm 


Muwmmk I 


le  obieft,  when 
lope  akins,  wHh 
to  the  waiet,  and 
•peed,  their  or- 

an  appearance 
fueatrian  ladiee 
lely  caparisoned 

heade,  breaats, 

r'jtioofallhea- 
ireheoaible  than 
the  lower  ooun< 
understood  that 
r,  suflfering  from.. 

\nd  their  oonae> 
lie  number  diey 
ud  that  fiuooily 
fer  every  man, 
»y  are  traTeliug 
heir  dieote.  In 
than  any  tribes 
boraeeare  thair 
rthe  wpport  of 
employ  them  to 
m  ia  ao  low,  that 
one  will  not  sell 
t,  or  a  few  null 
they  necessarily 
lering  roots  and 
id  simfde.  Most 
tstiagfidi.    The 


BABITS. 

process  is  to  build  a  small  fire  in  tlie  centre  of  their  lodge, 
to  fix  the  fiah  upon  a  stick  two  or  thme  feet  long,  and  place 
one  end  in  the  ground  so  as  to  bring  the  fish  partly  over  the 
fire,  and  then  by  a  alow  prooeas  it  ia  most  thoroughly  roast- 
ed  without  acorohing,  or  acareely  changing  the  color.  The 
priucipal  art  conaiaU  in  taking  Ume,  and  our  beat  cooks 
might  improve  by  following  their  mode. 

The  habits  of  Indiana  are  said  to  be  indolent.     Aa  a  g««- 
eral  remark  it  may  be  true,  but  I  saw  but  very  little  toooo- 
firm  ita  truth  among  the  Indiana  of  the  plaina  ;  for  I  rarely 
aaw  any  of  theae  Indians  not  engaged  in  some  object  of 
purauit ;  not  the  most  productive  perhaps,  but  such  as  elicit- 
«d  their  attenUon.     While  I  believe  that  the  reaemblanoe, 
both  phymcaJ  and  moral,  of  all  the  different  naUons  and 
tribes  of  Ind  ana,  apread  over  large  porUons  of  the  oonti. 
nent  of  America,  is  greater  than  is  seen  in  any  people  of 
any  other  country  of  equal  extent ;  yet  if  it  ia  true,  that  as 
a  general  fact,  as  some  authorr.  have  aaid,  "  they  are  mo- 
rose  and  gloomy  iu  their  aountenancea ;  sullen,  or  bwjoha- 
nalian  in  their  disposiUona ;  that  they  are  rarely  ao  joyftil 
aa  to  laugh  unless  exoitsd  by  Ardent  apirits ;  that  they  are 
taciturn  and  never  Indulge  fai  mirth ;  that  they  are  obtose 
in  sympathy,  and  destitute  of  social  affections ;  that  in  proud 
disdain  they  turn  away  from  whatever  would  excite  curies- 
ity  ;  that  no  common  motives  or  endearments  excite  them 
to  action ;"  if  these  things  are  true,  then  the  Indians  of  Or- 
egon are  an  exeeption  to  the  general  fact.    In  all  the  abova 
namdd  particulars,  I  aaw  no  special  diflferenoe  between 
them  and  other  nations.    As  a  part  of  Uie  human  family, 
they  havo  the  same  natuml  propensities  and  Uie  same  so- 
cial  affections.    They  are  cheerful  and  often  gay,  sooU- 
Ue,  kind  and  aflfeotionate ;  wd  anxioua  to  receive  instnic 


HIMMMMIIM* 


Um  Uk  whatever  tmy  ooadiiM  ta  thair  happii 

••••••ftBr.     h  ia  vofM  tlMn  idU  to  tpwili  ot  "  phyaioal  hi. 

•MsiUlity  inwnMiglH  iolo  the  animal  natuia  of  tha  lodiana, 
•0  that  thair   bodiaa  apiHtwimala   to   tha   iiiwiiiiibillty  of 
hfonn'  hoo6."    Tha  influanoa  of  rarnarka  of  thia  kind  ia  to 
pwduoa,  in  the  boaonM  of  all  who  reMi  them,  the  aam*  ia. 
■anaibility  that  ia  oharfad  upon  tha  native  oharaotor  of  the 
Indiana.     To  repraaant  thair  ohanwtara  and  thoir  raatora. 
Hon  to  tha  oommon  ftalinge  of  humanity  ao  hopeleaa,  ia 
to  atoel  the  heart  of  even  Ohriatianity  itaelf,  if  it  were  poa. 
■ibk,  againat  all  aympathy,  and  to  paralin  all  exertiooa 
Md  eflbrt  to  aave  them  ftom  tha  twofcid  daatruetton  to. 
wWoh  they  doom  them,  temporal  and  etamal.     In  thia  the 
r—msn,  that  Chriatiana  are  dtting  in  auch  aupineneaa  over 
tWr  oonditioo,  imd  that  tha  heart-thrilling  appeab  fcr 
toaohari  to  aniighton  thf  m  are  diaragardad  »    la  thia  the 
MMon,  that  while  tha  philanthropy  of  tha  Uaitad  Stataa' 
oitiaana  towarda  them  ia  ao  widely  Uaaonad.  thoaa  who 
•ra  aant  to  toaoh  tbam  tha  arta  of  civiliiad  life,  are  ait- 
tfaf  qulatly  on  tha  bordara  in  govaramantal  pay,  while  tha 
ladiaaa  «m  roaniog  atill  over  tha  pmiriaa  in  aaanih  of 
Moartsk  and  pvaoartoiM  gamaf     I  ferbaar  to  toll  tito 
•holaatorjr. 

Tfcey  ham  but  few  maaufeetaiaa,  and  thoaa  an  thaoMai 
pMn  and  ainpla,  not  aorteodiiig  miMh  bayond  drawing  the 
■>UaaorMii»ala,andnwkingthan  into  clothing;  maUng 
WwaaMi  arKMva  and  aoma  few  artiolaa of  hirnituM.  Ia 
*Mriag  aUaathay  aavar  make  any  vaa  of  bark  or  taooia. 
Thair  pnoaaa  in  to  namovt  tha  hair  and  fleah  AtMn  tha  akiaa 
by  aoimpiag  tfcaai  wl^  ,a  hard  atooa  or  wood,  or  whaa  h 
oaa  be ohtpiaad,  a  piaoa  ofiroa  hoop;  and  than  bearoaariag 
than  irith  tha  biaiaa  of  aoma  aaimal,  tbay  an   »  tbam 


ppil 

r  '<  phydoal  in. 
I  of  Um  IndiMM, 

iawoaibiUty  of 
tfthia  kind  into 
n,  th«  Hun«i  ia. 
iharaoler  of  the 
<<  thoir  nHloni- 
K>  hopelew,  ia 
;  if  it  wera  poo- 
»  all  exertioM 

(loatruotion  to. 
•I-  Iff  thto  the 
upineiMMovor 
g  appeala   fcr 

t  la  tbia  the 
United  Statee' 
ad,  thoao  wfa» 
1  lift,  are  ait. 
Mj,  while  the 

in  aeanih  of 
lar  to  tdi  tin 

•  anthanioai 
I  dreatlng  the 
)ing;  naking 
harnitaN.  fa 
ttk  or  tanto. 
Vomtheddaa 
d«or  whm  H 
Bbeemaariay 
an  'w  tlMMi 


UAtnrfAiffvuBa.  ^^ 

thoroughlj  and  rub  tbem  until  they  are  aoH ;  and  after  ihia 

bleaob  them  with  pure  white  clay.     Their  mode  of  amoliing 

them  ia  to  nxoavata  a  amall  plaoe  in  the  ground,  about  a 

foot  deep,  and  over  thia  to  oonatruct  a  fixture  in  the  form  of 

a  lodge,  a  few  feet  wide  at  the  baae  and  brot^^ht  to  a  point 

at  the  top.     Then  they  build  a  amall  fire  in  the  centre,  and 

plaoe  the  akina  around  upon  the  ft«me  work,  ao  aa  to  make 

the  enoloaure  almost  amoke  tight.     The  prooMn  oooupiea 

about  one  day.     Their  mode  of  dreaaing  buffalo  robea  ia 

diflerent.     They  atretoh  the  akin  upon  the  ground,  Omk 

aide  up,  faatening  It  down  with   pina  around  the   border, 

and  then  with  an  instrument  formed  aomething  like  a  ooop< 

•r'a  ads,  made  of  atone,  or  wood  overlaid  with  a  pieoe  of 

iron,  brought  to  a  blunt  edge  like  the  ourrier'a  knife,  they 

olear  from  it  all  remaining  fleah,  and  let  it  thoroughly  dry. 

After  thia,  with  the  uume  iiiatrument,  they  work  upon  it  with 

a  pounding,  hewing  atroke,  until  they  have  brought  it  to  a 

auitable  thioknees  and  rendered  it  aof\  and  whito,  as  our 

buffiilo  robea  are  when  brought  into  market.     It  ia  a  work 

of  great  labor,  and  ia  performed  by  the  women.     We  little 

think  how  much  toil'  it  ooata  a  woman  to  prepare  one  of 

tbeae  robea,  and  then  how  liule  ia  paid  for  it  by  the  pur- 

cbaaer ;  a  pound  of  tobaooo  or  a  bunoh  of  beads,  ia  as  miidl 

aa  the  Indian  generally  receives.  *^  ' 

Their  bowa  aro  made  of  the  most  elastic  wood,  atrength. 

cned  with  the  tendona  of  animala  glued  upon  the  back  side, 

and  the  string  is  made  of  the  same  substance.    Their  ar< 

rows  are  made  of  heavy  wood,  with  one  end  tipped  with  a 

sharp  atone  or  pointed  iron,  and  the  other  pinnated  with  a 

feikther.    While  the  firat  is  to  pienw,  the  latter  is  to  govern 

the  diieotioB.    Their  bows  and  arrows  perform  aiAoniahing 

execution,  and  they  manage  tbem  with  great  dextarity. 

81* 


D'liftiai 


yiiiiiiiiiiiii mrtf* 


i§mm 


m^immii^mm 


MtH  of  tho  eookiuf  omiuhU,  whiok  timj  wnr  uw,  ai* 
AbtoiiMd  from  tratkn,  ami  do  not  often  Mtcnd  b«]rood  • 
hnm  kettle,  tin  pnit,  nncl  •  very  few  knivoe.  They  Imv« 
bowU  which  they  m&nureoturi  T«ry  injKenktueiy  from  tlte 
horoe  of  buAilo ;  end  MMneUnes  thoee  that  are  larger  and 
I  aoiid.  from  the  homa  of  the  big  horn  mounUin  ■h«ep. 
They  have  apoone  of  very  good  atruotare  RMWle  uf  bufblo 
honM  i  alao  varioua  kinda  of  baak^a  of  rude  workmanahip. 
Their  aaddlee  are  rude,  eomewhat  nreemblinfr  i\m  Spaniah 
aaddle,  havij^  a  high  knob  forward,  and  riaing  high  on  the 
bnok  part;  geaarally  aittinf  uneaaily  upon  th«  horaa'a 
Their  brtdlea  oonaiat  of  a  rope  well  made  of  the 
kalv,  ar  ahag  of  the  buflfkin,  sight  or  ten  feet  long,  faateaed 
in  the  eenue  to  the  under  jaw  of  the  horae,  and  tho  enda 
•ra  brought  over  the  neok  fcr  reina.  The  lawo,  whkih  i» 
«aed  ftw  uetohing  honea  and  eonw  kinde  of  wild  aninmla, 
k  a  long  rope  with  a  large  nooae  at  one  end,  and  the  other 
end  ia  held  firmly  in  the  hand ;  the  whote  m  ooiUxl,  and 
when  the  dktanoe  pemiila  it  to  be  thrown,  it  k  uaually  uo 
4a«teroualy  dose,  aa  to  bring  the  nooee  over  the  animal'a 
Whm  mounted,  they  often  have  a  long  leather  thong, 
or  a  rape,  fiutene^)  upon  the  honie'a  neck,  which  trails  upon 
Ike  giound,  and  'm  frequently  sufiered  to  remain  when  the 
hoiaa  ia  turned  looee,  Hot  the  oonvenienoe  of  mon  eaaily 
•atching  Mm  agaia. 

TiUair  eaaoea,  before  they  obtained  iron  hatoheta  of  the 
tradaia  were,  with  great  labor  and  patienoe,  made  with 
\  of  Mane ;  and  avao  now,  joet  them  noanMll  eflbrt. 
A  eanoa  of  ^^  oonatnwtian  ia  viilaed  as  h%h  aa  om  or 
two  good  hofaaa.  ;i  lieir  fiahing  oeta  are  another  arUele 
wMeh  ia  wall  oooatmotad,  foraMd  of  wild  flax ;  and  ia 
•vary  partioalar  like  oar  aeeap  new* 


MMariM 


f 


f  now  UM,  AM 

itciMl  b«]road  • 
•.  Th«]r  hM9 
r)udy  from  tll« 
are  lkr^«r  and 
KMjnUin  a^MiHOli. 
MKifl  uf  bufblo 

workmMuhtp. 
nfr  itHe  Spaniah 
ag  high  on  the 
an  Um«  hom't 
t  nnadv  of  the 

kwg,  fiuteiMd 
I,  and  Uh)  eada 
laaoo,  whioh  b 

wild  aniDMil% 
,  and  the  other 

ia  ooikxl,  amt 
I  ia  uaually  w> 
r  th«  animara 
;  leather  tHonf , 
iioh  trails  upon 
nain  when  the 
uf  oMn  aaailjr 

latohetc  of  the 
M,  inadr  with 
loamall  eMhrt. 
high  aa  oae  or 
laotber  artiet* 
Aftx ;    and  in 


■iLioion— -Muaf< 

Aa  ragarda  (be  wHflon  of  the  Miana.  I  have  already 
■Mad  that  they  beliava  In  one  Ood,  in  the  ImnMirUlhy  of 
thu  aoiil,  ami  in  future  rewarda  and   punlnhnie  «■.      H«« 
«hil«  thoae  are  the  promlMnt  polnta  of  their  belief,  defiuile 
(deae  of  a  religioue  nature  appear  to  be  exlromnly  llmtod, 
both,  in  number  and  In  ooniprehrualveneee.     A«  much  aa 
thia,  however,  appeaw  to  be  true.     They  believe  ia  cm 
OfMt  Spirit,  who  haa  oroated  all  thlnga,  govenwi  all  impor- 
tant  event*,  who  b  the  author  of  all  good,  ami  the  only  ob- 
ject  of  religioua  homage.     They  bcliev«  he  may  ^  *► 
pleaaed  with  them  for  their  had  .  ondoct,  and  in  hia  di» 
pleaaura  bring  oalamltioa  upo«  them.     They  also  b«l leve  in 
an  evil  aplrit,  whom  they  call  emim  keneki  m>-ohdl  emm- 
9kmo;  that  ia,  the  black  chief  below,  who  in  the  author  of 
•II  the  evila  whioh  befall  Ihcm,  undeaervod  an  a  pimigk- 
meat  fVom  the  Great  Spirit  above.    They  believe  tfiat  th* 
.  aoul  enteni  the  ftitura  work!  with  a  aimilar  form,  and  t» 
oiroumaunoea  like  thoae  under  whioh  It  existed  ia  thia  llli. 
They  beliey«  that  In  a  ftiture  atate,  the  happlneea  of  tha 
good  oonaiate  .n  an  abundance  and  enjoyment  of  thoae 
thinga  which  they  value  here,  that  their  preaent  aourcea  of 
happineaa  will  be  carried  to  perfection  ;  and  that  the  pun- 
iahraent  of  the  bad  will  conaiat  in  entire  oxcluaion  firom 
avary  aouree  of  happineaa,  and  in  finding  all  oauaea  ^f  mia- 
«ry  hara,  gwatly  multiplied  hereafter.      Thua  thoir  !dea« 
of  fature  bappineai  and  imm  y  are  found  to  vary  according 
10  their  diferent  aituationa  and  eroployinenta  In  life.     It  w 
dttkult,  If  not  impofjaihie,  to  aaoertain  any  thing   >f  the* 
itligkNM  belief  beyond  them*  general  notion*.    The  numbe* 
of  woida  and  enna  in  their  language  exj.reaeive  of  abatraol 
•Bd  aplritoal  ideaa  la  very  small,  ao   !*t  thoae  who  wif/rt  W 
iBHrost  tlimi  Itt  tbeae  aubjeota,  are  oompell^  to  do  It  by 


tmimmmm 


|«WW(»    -^ 


140  _^^^ 

mMiM  ol  nioatrklkuM  and  oiraumlooulionfl,  and  Um  inlro. 
duoUoo  of  word,  from  forelKn  l«ngu««««.  R««idM.  cook 
•otou.  of  thsir  iniiormnoe,  lhi»y  «re,  for  thn  mml  part,  un. 
willing  to  «x|K>M  it,  by  ravttdling  th«  littlo  knowlodg*  which 
they  (NMHHiw.  Indeed,  wherever  a  fonllnK  <>f  Ignorance  up. 
oo  any  aubjeot  prevaila,  we  And  (hat  all  ondeavora  to  elioil 
th«  true  amount  of  knowUlge.  are  repelled  or  evaded. 
Even  men  of  lalento,  with  iw.  who  oonv^ine  fluently  upon 
moat  nubjects,  u*>  oAen  ailent  whM  r..|igioua  aubjeota  are 
introduced. 

I  am  far  from  believing  the  many  long  and  atrange  trt. 
dIUons,  with  which  we  are  often  entertained.  It  iii  nore 
than  probable,  thai  they  ar«  in  most  inatancee  the  gralui. 
toua  offering-i  of  dwigning  and  artftil  tradora  and  huntera  to 
that  ourioaity,  which  ia  ever  *wakn  and  attentive  to  nub. 
jeou  of  thia  deaoription.  The  Indian,  themaelvee  would 
often  b«  aa  much  aurpriaed  at  the  reheraal  of  theae  trmdi. 
tiona,  an  liioae  are  for  whoae  amuacment  they  ar«  fabricated. 
My  own  opinion  ia  confirmed  by  that  of  aeveral  gentlemen 
of  integrity  and  veracity,  who  atond  at  the  bead  of  the  Hud. 
aon  Bay  Company,  who  have  long  been  nwident  ia  Uio  In- 
dian  country,  and  have  become  extenaively  ac<]uaint«d  witk 
their  lauguagea. 

The  Indiana  weat  of  the  great  chain  of  mountaina,  hava 
po  wars  among  themaelve^  and  appear  to  bo  averae  to 
then»,  and  do  not  enter  into  battle  except  in  aalf-dafenae, 
and  then  only  in  the  laat  extremity.  Their  only  ware  are 
with  the  Blackfeet  Indiana,  whoae  country  ia  along  the  eaat 
border  of  the  Rooky  MounUioa,  and  who  are  conatanUy 
roving  about  in  war  partiea,  on  both  aidea,  in  queat  of  plun- 
der. When  the  Indiam,  on  the  weat  meet  with  any  of  th«at 
pnrtiea,  they  avoid  an  encounter  if  poaaible,  butif  oom|MUed 


pitfilili 


\,; 


0mk 


<h  •nd  Um  intra. 

n  mcMt  pert,  ua< 
nowlodg*  whioh 
>r  lKnoruic«  up. 
dnavura  to  «ilioit 
JM  or  evaded. 
m  flunntly  upon 
QUI  aubJMta  Mr* 

uid  atrings  tnt< 
m1.  It  ill  room 
ice*  tha  gimlui« 

>  and  hunter*  to 
tt«ntivfl  to  nub. 
•maelrM  would 

of  theae  tradi* 
ar«  rabrioated. 
eral  gentlemen 
»ad  of  the  Hud- 
ident  ia  tlio  In. 
kG«]uaint«d  with 

lountaina,  have 

>  be  avene  to 
a  Mir.cUfeiMh 
only  vrara  are 
Along  the  eaat 
are  oooatantly 
queat  of  plus- 
thanyoftheat 
iitifoompelM 


iil 

to  <lf(M,  l»i«7  rfiow  a  firm,  un^untod,  unocmqtieTmble  apWl, 
(nd  ruah  upon  their  onemlea  with  the  grratr«i  iinpntu  wHy  j 
and  It  la  aald  that  one  Net  Pens*,  or  Flathead  warrior,  la  t 
matflh  fcr  three  Rlaokfeet.     The  only  advanUge  whioh  th* 
latter  have  over  the  former  oonaUrta  in  tlwir  mimbera,  tliei* 
being  more  than  twenty  thouaand  of  thf  Hlackfeet  Indiana. 
When  an  enemy  la  diaooverod,  every  home  la  driven  Into 
camp,  and  the  women  take  oharj^e  of  them,  while  every 
man  aalaea  hia  weapona  of  war,  whatever  they  may  be, 
mount*  hii  horae,  and  walta  Arm  and  undlamayed  to  aee  if 
koetilitiea  muat  cnaue.     If  a  battle  oanmit  be  avoided,  they 
roah  forward  to  meet  their  foe*,  throwing  themaelvea  (lat 
■pon  their  horaea  aa  they  draw  near,  and  fire,  and  wheel, 
and  reload,  and  again  ruah  full  apeed  lotheaeoond  encoun- 
ter.    Thia  ia  continued  until  victory  ia  decided,  whioh  iaaa 
oftan  by  the  fcllnre  of  ammunition,  aa  by  tha  \<m  of  matt. 
Vary  IVequeotly,  when  tli*  Blaokfcet  eee  white  men  with 
.  tiM  Nea  Pero**  or  Flathead*,  they  decline  a  battle,  though 
fcr  miperior  In  number*,  knowing  fhnt  tite  white  men  q«p 
Atmiah  a  large  auppl>  of  ammunitioa ;  and  in  suoh  oaaw 
thay  will  raiaa  a  white  flag,  and  oome  in  to  amoke  tha  |iif» 
of  paM«.    Tha  Nes  PeroA  or  Pladwad  chief,  on  auoh  an 
oooaaion,  will  aay  "  we  accept  your  ofler  lo  amoke  the  p(ye 
of  paaoe,  but  h  ia  mrt  in  ignorance  that  your  heart  la  wmr, 
Bad  your  hand  blood,  but  we  love  paaoe.    Tou  give  ua  iIm 
fipa,  hot  blood  always  Mlowa." 

But  theae  Indiui*  are  not  without  their  fiom.  Oambllim 
ia  ona  of  tha  moat  prominent,  and  is  a  mling  paaaion  wM^ 
thay  will  gratify  to  tha  last  extremity.  It  is  much  ptM- 
tioed  in  runatng  horses  and  ibot  races  by  men,  women  and 
Mldren,  and  thay  have  gamaa  of  chance  played  with  ttioka 
or  bones.     Whan  I  told  the  Net  Pero«a  that  gambling  la 


uaakw 


itttmrnm 


wmmmtm 


■MMH 


i  . 


T 


wmmmmH^ 


h 


143 


aOOO  XOBAU. 


wrong,  and  a  violation  of  the  tenth  commandment ;  for  it 
is  coveting  the  property  of  another,  and  taking  it  without 
an  equivalent,  a*  much  a«  atealing ;  Jiey  aaid  they  did  not 
know  it  before,  but  now  they  know  Qod  forbida  it  they  will 
do  ao  no  more.  Theft  is  generally  suppoaed  to  be  inbred  in 
the  Indiana,  but  I  waa  plaaaed  to  discover  that  the  tribes  of 
the  plains  held  it  in  abhorrence,  and  would  punish  it  severe- 
ly^should  it  occur.  The  Shoshones  are  said  to  be  addicted - 
to  this  habit  in  sonw  degree.  Drunkenness  is  a  stranger  vice 
among  these  nations,  their  remove  from  the  sources  of  this 
evil  being  their  seeurity.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  their 
virtue,  any  more  than  that  of  other  tribes,  would  be  invul- 
nerable if  exposed  to  temptation,  for  thia  habit,  like  flieir 
proverbial  love  for  finery  and  ornament,  is  acquired  by 
Ihe  facilities  for  indulgence  which  ara  thrown  in  their  way. 
The  trader  goes  &r  into  the  interior  with  his  packs  of 
beads,  buttons,  paints,  dec.  to  exchange  for  ftirs,  and  teach- 
es these  ignorant  pe(^le  to  set  the  same  value  <m  Ma  articles, 
that  their  tan  are  iAtrinsioally  worth—but  who  supposes  that 
they  would  not  know  the  cfennparative  worth  of  more  iiseful 
goods,  if  th^  were  offered  them  ?* 

The  moral  dispositiim  of  these  Indiana  is  very  commend^ 
able,  certainly  as  much  as  that  of  any  people  that  can  be 
DMned.  They  are  kind  to  strangers,  and  remarkably  so  to 
eaeh  other.  While  among  them  I  saw  no  contentiokis,  and 
heard  no  angry  words  from  one  to  another.  .They  manifest 
an  uncommon  desire  to  be  instructed  that  tbeiy  may  obey 
and  fulfil  all  moral  obligations.  Harmmiy  and  peace  pre- 
vail in  all  their  domestio  concerns.    But  when  they  have 


•  Am  «tli>iBpt  WM  arada  not  lonf  ainoe,  b^  an  Unitad  StatM  ehiaia, 
.  to  eoutraet  a  diatillaiv  on  the  WUtamatta  river,  bat  Ibr  want  of  aatl- 
aUe  aateriala  hefbUad  ia  Us  ol^eat.'* 


:-■■    I  ■ 


^MiiiataHi 


fitmiMmmtmiU»miim 


dMm 


tt0mMiimm0ilim»^ 


Mil 


mmifiimim 


sonurmoHf. 


i«r 


Mndment ;  for  it 
kia%  it  withoih 
■aid  they  did  not 
■bidi  it  they  will 
1  to  be  inbred  in 
hat  the  tribes  of 
punish  it  serere- 
id  to  be  addicted - 
B  a  stranger  vice 

sources  of  this 
pposed  that  their 
MTould  be  ioTuK 
bahit,  like  flieir 

is  acquired  by 
m  in  their  way. 
th  his  packs  of 
ftirs,  and  teaob< 
i  (m  his  articles, 
ho  supposes  that 
lofmoreiisefal 

very  oonmend. 
pie  that  oan  be 
nnarkably  s»lo 
wotentiotaM,  and 
They  manifest 
thtfjr  may  obey 
and  peace  pre- 
rhen  they  hate 


tadSUtMohiipa. 
t  Ibr  want  of  rail- 


any  dUBottlt  subject,  which  fliey  know  not  how  to  dispoee  of, 
they  go  to  their  oMefr,  and  if  it  involves  any  important  prin- 
oiple,  the  chie'H  bring  the  case  to  any  white  man,  who  may 
be  among  them,  to  obtain  his  opinion,  which  is  generally  fol- 
lowed. They  are  scrupulously  h<»est  in  all  their  dealings, 
and  lying  is  scarcely  known.  They  say  tfiey  fear  to  sin 
against  the  Great  Spirit,  ant  erefore  have  but  one  heart, 
and  their  tongue  is  straight  and  not  forked.  And  so  cor* 
reotly  does  the  law  written  upon  their  hearts  accord  with 
the  writtMi  law  of  Ood,  that  every  infraction  of  the  seventh 
command  of  the  decalogue  is  punished  with  severity. 

I  have  witnessed  but  few  things  among  them  indicative  of 
flttparstitkMi.    The  practice  of  the  Shoshones  of  cutting  them- 
selves for  the  dead,  I  have  already  mentioned.    The  Carri> 
era  bum  their  dead.    When  a  person  dies,  all  the  mlations 
must  be  aawmbled,  which  often  occupies  many  days ;  and 
if  a  httsband  is  deceased,  the  wife  must  lay  her  head  upon 
the  hoaon  of  her  husband  every  night,  to  show  her  aftotbrn 
for  him ;  and  when  the  ibneral  pile  is'ccnstructed,  the  corpse 
laid  i^on  it,  and  the  fire  enkindled,  during  the  boming^  of 
dw  body,  she  must  fireqHently  put  her  hands  through  th« 
flanie  and  lay  tham  upon  his  bosom,  to  show  her  oontinoed 
aAotion.    llieir  first  chief  lost  his  wife.    He  was  asked  if 
be  would  ^w  the  aflbotioB  tot  her,  which  was  required  of 
others.    He  thought  on  account  of  Us  chieftahiship  ha  might 
be  excused.    The  people  were  urgent,  and  he  consented, 
'    and  so  gnat  was  the  pain  which  he  endured,  that  he  was 
willing  tlM  practice  should  be  ameliorated,  and  it  is  hoped 
kwUlsBon  be  abolished. 

They  have  no  unlocky  days,  but  as  a  substituta  for  the 
wh^  man's  Friday,  they  have  a  portentous  howling  of  a 
largo  wolf,  which  Aeycalltho  medicine  wolf.    Ifthfyhear 


mPM* 


iMtfpm 


mmmutmmtmmm 


pipnai 


tUs  wk«n  tmreUog,  MMfaM«i  is  ac  0110&  vWUt  la  thSir 
oounteoMOM,  for  it  k  oooaidand  m  ft>^»H»i^  Min»  oa. 
Itmity  near.  - 

Among  tbair  Ki|»ntitioiw  may  be  olaswd  Uieir  mode  o( 
curing  diMaaM.   Tliey  have  wiiat  ate  called  madioine*  men, 
who  make  no  pretenaiona  to  any  knowledge  of  diaeaaea  or 
akill  in  medicine ;  but  they  have  a  bag  in  which  are  depoaited 
varioua  relica.    The  patient  ia  atretohed  upon  the  ground ; 
•fi  number  of  peraona  enoirole  him  and  aiag  the  medioica 
aong.    The  medicine  man  entera  the  circle  and  coramenoea 
hia  magical  incantationa  by  holding  the  medicine  bag  over 
him,  which  ia4o  «i|ieiata  aa  a  dbarm ;  he  uaea  many  gea- 
tura%.  grimaoea,  and  inarticulate  aounda ;  pata  or  kaepHla 
the  pi^ient  with  hia  handa,  beginning  very  aoAly,  and  grad. 
ually  increaaing  to  a  oonaiderable  degree  of  aeverity ;  blowa 
into  hia  can,  and  praoUoea  other  like  oeremooiea.    By  tbia 
prooeaa  the  patient  ia  often  much  fatigued,  and  throwi^  into  « 
fjpe«pe«8piratioa,andlii8imaghiatiaaiamueh  excited.  Whaia 
tijie  /Uotiuo  Iwa  been  auffioientjiy  employed,  jheimagnatiipi 
f9l]l^K»ii|^  upqn,.a«d  the  medioin«,bac haalnviatbly  vm^ 
l^ptted  1^  yirtue«,  the  medicine  nM^  pnwnta  ac^me^riflia^ 
artioiU^  auch  aaa^anall  bone,  f  adkdt,  a,  pebbly  and  wi^ 
he  Ima  t/»iim  it  from  the  bodyjf  t^  pMie«t,  and  that  it  w«a 
tha,<(Miua9  (!>f  the  diaeaae ;  or  hf^piw  a  heavy  puff  upward^ 
and  aftya  the  diaeaae  haa  oome  out  of  the  patiant  and  gnmi 
tipiqurd.  and dien  aaka  him  ifba doea  not  Ae  1  better,    'pifi. 
patieniaayayea;  for  he  certainly  feela  better  19  MfigreHiir 
ed  from  tbe  proceaa.    And  often  the  relief  ta  pepnywent;  i|» 
the  friction  may  have  been  benefi^M,  and  the  iiMgiaatioM 
often  pedbirma.woader|.    The  medicine  man^ataoda  rmfim- 


•'Ttiir  word  wl 
Maaa^Hd^rai; 


wa  raider  wuikiKt,  u  wadf  by  Induna,  ligil. 


mUHtiiiiim 


HMMiAiMiil^^ 


viaiUft  IB  tlMir 
ioiiag  MOMoa* 

»d  tbair  mod*  of 
1 0M)dioine*  mao, 
»  of  dia«MM  or 
oh  are  deiKwitod 
too  tbegfoundi 
ig  the  medioiM 
and  oqinmeoom 
dioine  bag  ovar 
uaes  OMUty  gea- 
fta  or  kjMpda 

le verity}  blowa 
eoiea.  By  t|il» 
td  thrown  jiitp^i 
excited.  Whfpt; 

tlm  unaanMllaA 

w  iD*id9)ly  Uft> 
uta  aqine4riflii^ 
tbU^aod  aii^ 
and  that  it  wpi 
y  pair  upward^ 
itieot^andgapi 
il  better.  Jk$. 
it)hf)i|igrfli||f; 
nfinwanrnt  7  far 
be  JowgiB^tjai 
iit»Qd»rei|iiin- 

l7liidiuia,atiii' 


p)iMHi|l>»WHil!l.ll|jilllWKII 


iijpiiiiiMp 


WMWWiJi 


mull  iATB. 


M6 


tlM«  for  (he  Hlb  of  hie  patient,  and  if  the  patient  diea,  Mt 
daflreqaently  hia  own  tife  ia  taken  by  aome  of  the  relatfrea 
of  the  deoeaaed.  He  make*  a  heavy  charge  for  hie  aervi. 
eea,  often  a  hnrae,  and  why  ahould  he  not  f  for  who  fai  aueh 
«laea  woald  endanger  hia  life  without  being  well  paMf  In 
JRtone  parts  of  the  coantry,  but  more  especially  in  the  lowwr 
ooantry,  the  lives  of  medicine  men  are  short,  and  it  would 
be  Bteppoaea  this  would  deter  others  from  entering  into  the 
profession.  But  the  tove  of  fame  and  wealth  is  powerftil 
among  heathen  as  well  as'«mOlig  civilized  communitiW. 
Undoubtedly  the  medicine  men,  when  they  begin  their  prtt. 
fession,  know  that  they  are  practicing  deception,  but  by  hab- 
itual deceit,  by  the  conidenoe  others  place  ih  their  AitI, 
ttid  by  the  effects  produced  tliKnigh  the  medium  of  tfttf  ho(k- 
■igfnation,  they  finally  believe  in  the  efficaoy  of  (hdr  (»#• 
eiMfhantments,  and  that  they  «re  consequential  men. 

I  have  eeeit  no  "  root  doetoTs"  in  any  tribe  ei«(  or  WM 
Of  du)  niountaiiia.  Tlie  Ittdiahs,  so  fiir  as  I  httvcr  harf  •& 
djppottimity  of  aseertainfaig,  htve  but  few  diSMuieir,  and  ftir 
tha^ra  of  these,  they  iwe  but  little  tnedioine;  ndrdoflrey 
pfofeaa'to  have  any  knowledge  of  nutoediea  bej^nd  a  fc# 
«peoUioa.  ,.,......,..■     ^^j^fi- 

The  warm  bath  la  used  bddi  by  tdck  and  heafAy  peraoqa 

M  dia  following  manner.  *  »Phey  construct  a  ateMd  hatk  III 

tli  forta  of  Ah  obkH^  oten,  two  or  three  feet  l^lttMll 

^  feet  long,  made  of  willow  bradohes,  eadr  «id  lniM>M 

intbltbe  ground,  forming  an  arch,  which  hr  oowrerf  tHA 

giifla  u$9  nnid,  or  nore  ganerany  with  ddntt.    IntUtr&ey 

^^m  i  iWMiber  of  hot  itones,  upon  which  tfiey  poor  walar. 

Tl^  peroh  who  is  to  go  Arough  Ae  proce*,  entew  atrft 

eneloaed  ti»rty  ttirjight,  and  remihu(  uiitfl  ii  iMfj^a^ 

^««ipir«daii  ii  patodOwsd,  iiid  oHea  tintil  mally  auflBsated. 

23 


iiiiiii 


Hiiiiiii 


Mi 


tfmrmm 


'*"! iiiii'iii'  I  III »iiii,iiiiiiiiiim)niiiiiij .mji j» „■  .,i„.ua. 


H*  Umb  oomM  o«it  ^ad  plnngM  at  oooe  Into  oold  water, 
•nd  no  Ngftid  b  paid  to  the  ■mwod  of  the  year,  whetlter 
MUDmer  or  winter. 

Tliey  are  whoilj  destitute  of  the  means  of  olitaii:ing  an 
aduoMkm,  and  therefore  are  ignorant  of  all  the  eoienoes. 
In  thlngi  with  which  they  are  oonrenant,  each  as  appertain 
tc  bunting,  war,  and  their  limited  domestic  conoeTus,  they 
manUbst  observation,  skill,  and  intellect ;  but  beyond  these 
tkeir  knowledge  is  very  limited.  They  neoessarily  compote 
hf  numbers,  but  their  arithmntio  is  entirely  mental.  It  is 
an  Interesting  fact,  that  of  four  different  languages,  which 
I  atamined,  ihe  mode  of  counting  is  by  tens. 

The  Klioatat  nation  count  with  different  words  up,to  ten, 
Imk't,  one ;  ns^X  two ;  and  so  to  tec ;  then  thoy  add  iaq»- 
JMMI  to  Uk'ti  as  kk*9  wtg^pem,  eleven;  neepV  wiffem, 
twelve ;  iMq»'l  tU,  twenty ;  and  in  like  manner  to  one  hun- 
dred, and  80  on  to  a  thousand  by  hundreds.  In  the  Nex 
PaiQ<  language,  noc  is  one,  btpeet,  two,  «eta^  three,  dM. 
▲A«r  ten  they  repeat  the  radical  numben  with  die  addition, 
ll^asnsa(il,elev«n;  kiaplU,t!ir«a»ji  sulspfii^  tMrty.  This 
may  be  a  suffloient  specimen  for  the  four  langoageo,  as  the 
other  two  proceed  in  the  same  manner. 

They  oonnt  their  years  by  snows;  as,  waOw  etoto,  iiwws 
wtiLt  that  i%  ris  years;  and  months  by  moons,  and  days  by 
•laeps ;  jrinsMMsk  jM-eJegi,  sleeps  four,  (four  days.)  It  is  not 
oonnaion  that  they  know  their  exact  age ;  nor  am  thty  very 
Afoourate  in  ohroaolagy.  '  '  V    .  » 

They  aii»  very  fond  of  singiQg,  and  generally  have  Aexi. 
bb and sweet4i»ed voices.  Mostnf  tfieir  singing isw^. 
out  woidsb  exoqiting  upon  srane  q^ecial  ocoadons.  Thsy 
iiMM,«k»incaiMtantr^etiti(Mi,asweuBefo,sol,la;  and 
inmnd  of  aaventl  di&reirt  parts  harmoniaing,  tb«y  only 


iHkiMMiiMHil 


iMMittiiiiiiilli^^ 


iiiiiii 


ip 


Into  oold  wftier, 
e  y««r,  whetlMW 

of  o^ltaii:iog  mi 
ill  the  toienqM. 
loh  as  «ppertei0 
I  conoerii*,  they 
lut  beyond  theee 
laaarily  oompnte 
r  mental.  K  k 
aguagea»  which 
I. 

irorda  up.to  ten, 
n  thoy  add  map' 
neepV  wifpeim, 
ner  to  one  hun< 
la.  In  theNez 
lUutf  three,  dte. 
iththeadditkn, 
ii^tMity.  Tfaia 
iiguagea,aathe 

ilael0te,aaowa 
I,  and  day*  by 
lays.)  ItkaM 
t  aw  they  tery 

"  ')'  .*;- 
illy  have  flesi. 
nnging  k.iridi. 
mdaoM.  Tbay 
b«aol,la;  and 
ing,  tbay  only 


tinmpfifmwuiwjMiiiijp 


take  eights,  one  above  another,  never  exceeding  three. 
They  are  oonwioiu  of  the  inferiority  of  their  tunee  to 
ours,  and  wished  to  be  instructed  in  this  department  of 
knowledge.  In  this  land  of  moral  j'esolations,  it  was 
cheering  to  hear  even  the  moat  simple  strains  of  melody 
and  harmony. 


-^MiiiiMiiiiMii^^ 


"mugmmmi'mi'mmm  3'  ••f mmnwiiii.  1  niiiii  i  h    hm  ly  mmnmil 


IN  DUMB  or   TSB   tOWIH   COVilTST. 


CHAPTER  XVn. 
The  Indiana  of  the  lower  coaalrj. 

Tri  Indiana  of  th«  lower  country  are  those  between  the 
ahorea  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Fatli  of  the  Columbia  river, 
and  from  Pugeta  Sound  to  Upper  California.  The  principal 
natioiM  are  the  Chenooka,  the  KlicaUla,  the  Callapooahs, 
•Dd  the  Umbaqula.  These  nationa  are  divided  into  a  great 
nonbar  of  tribes,  which  have  their  respective  chiefs,  yet 
"«oh  nation  has  its  principal  chief,  who  is  head  over  all  the 
iNVaral  tribes,  and  has  a  general  superintending  control. 
llMir  peraoM  are  rather  below  a  middle  atature,  and  not 
gMMraDy  aa  well  formed  aa  the  Indians  of  the  plains  or  up. 
p«r  oountrjr.  The  women  are  uncouth,  and  from  a  com- 
Uoatioo  of  causes  appear  old  at  an  early  age.  Among 
thaaa  oauaea  the  habit  of  paintiug,  in  which  they  indurg<;, 
dsatroya  the  smooth  and  healthy  appearance  of  the  skin. 

These  Indians  appear  to  have  less  sensibility,  both  phya- 
ioal  and  moral,  than  thoae  of  the  upper  country.  Their 
d^andenoe  for  subsistence  being  mostly  confined  to  fishing 
•ad  fimling,  they  are  not  so  well  supplied  wflh  clothing  aa 
the  unwr  Indians,  who  hunt  the  hufialo,  the  elk,  the  ante, 
kipe  aad  other  game.  The  lower  Indians  obuin  soma 
guoe,  a  id  clothing  from  the  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com. 
p««y.  I  have  oAt»«  &.«  them  going  about,  half  naked, 
wkea  tha  tbermonioiar  ranged  between  thirty  and  forty' 
dagreea,  and  t!»e!r  children  barefooted  and  barelegged  in 
the  Hiow}  ftiij  yn%  when  exposed  to  &tigue,  they  cannot 


mmtm 


a  between  the 
lumbia  river. 
The  prinoipkl 
CalUpooth*, 
id  into  a  great 
ire  chiefs,  yet 
d  over  all  the 
iding  control, 
turo,  and  not 
plaine  or  up. 
from  a  oom> 
ige.     Among 
they  indulge;, 
f  the  skin. 
:y,  both  phye- 
ntry.    Their 
ned  to  fishinf 
h  clothing  aa 
slk,  the  ante* 
obtain  aome 
on  Bay  Corn- 
half  naked, 
ty  and  forty 


tarelegged  m 
I  they  cannot 


iiiPI  iMi 


iirBfAm  or  nni  uiwia  roENnr.  Mt* 

•ndure  the  intensity  of  the  Mason  as  well  as  civilized  people. 
I  iMive  notioed  this,  when  I  have  had  them  employed  in  con- 
veying me  any  considerable  distance  in  a  canoe.  Their 
and  smelling  are  obtuse,  rendered  so  by  their  filthy 
habits  a.ud  cont.'ninated  food.  But  they  are  quick  to  catch 
correctly  a  distan  sound,  and  remarkably  keen-sighted, 
acquired  by  their  habits  of  closely  and  oareAilly  watching 
for  game.  These  nations,  from  tlieir  mode  of  8ubaiirteR0»r 
being  more  stationary  than  thosA  of  the  plains,  have  mora 
dufable  and  comrortable  habitations,  which  &re  built  of  split 
plank,  after  the  manner  of  Wanaxka's,  near  the  falls  of  tha 
W  Uamette,  which  I  h«ve  dewsribed.  Some  of  them  indulg* 
the  Ihnoy  of  making  thei.i  doors  like  the  face  of  a  man,  tha  ' 
OMMith  being  the  place  cf  entiance. 

The  lower  Indians  do  not  dreae  as  weir,  nor  with  aa  good 
laate,  as  the  upper.    Their  robes  are  much  shorter,  and  are 
nade  of  inferior  materials ;  such  as  deer  skins  with  tha  hair 
on,  and  skins  of  hares  and  of  squirrels.    I  saw  many  woman 
of  the  poorer  class,  dresaed  in  a  short  petticoat  or  akirt, 
made  of  cedar  bark,  or  a  species  of  strong  grnaa  twirtad 
itotc  J&iands,  coe  md  of  which  is  secured  in  a  girdle  or  baai 
wround  the  waist,  while  the  other  is  suspended,  knotted  and 
fringed.    These  are  a  substitute  for  cloth,  wMch  they  ar» 
loo  poor  to  obtain.    The  nations  near  the  ocean,  who-hava 
intaromurse  with  sailors,  and  access  to  ardent  spirits,  am  M 
degraded  aa  those  on  our  ftontiers,  and  fnmi-the  same  cauaaa. 
Bf  tbdlr  communication  with  those  who  furnish  then  wisS 
tha  means  of  intoxication,  and  who  have  introduced  kindnd 
vicea,tfiey  have  become  indolent  and  extremely  filthy  in  ttaair 
habita,  and  OMne  debased  than  the  beasts  of  the  earth.    Bam 
perfectly  neat  are  the  deer  and  the  antelope ;  how  indoMii' 
oiM  the  beaver  and  the  bee;  how  cleanly  ia  tha  plu«»§e 

22* 


mmmmmsmta^Mmm 


mm 


"•i'wppii 


s«o 


iWWJnia  or 


LomwM  oanmt* 


of  Um  bird  ;  how  woU  adapted  to  rapow  ar*  their  habitA* 
ti«M ;  in  a  word,  bow  diflbrant  ara  all  tbair  haUtm  from 
thoM  of  fallm,  polluted  man.  It  ia  not  tha  want  of  rational 
powara,  but  their  abuM  by  iiia  whioh  baa  thua  degraded 
hfan,  and  nothing  but  Chrietianity  can  bring  him  bao|(  to 
Oed,  and  the  ooroibrta  and  deoenqiea  of  lift. 

The  want  of  moral  inatruction,  the  influence  of  bad  ek« 
amplee,  and  unreatrained  lioentiouaMae,  have  brought  the 
lawer  Jndiane  into  a  atate  of  wretehedneaa,  whioh  will  be  ea- 

^  tailed  apon  ftitare  g«Mration%  and  whioh  nothing  but  tlw 
healing  power  of  the  goepel  ean  erer  eradieate.  ThaM 
Ma  aene  exoeptiooa,  but  not  enough  to  aave  theae  remnaate 

"  vf  onee  pupuloua  nationa,  if  benevolence  and  humanity  do 
not  soon  break  their  alumbera.  h  ia  to  be  hoped  the  aria^ 
ilDBariaa  now  iatha  field,  by  tha  bleeaidg  of  Ood,  will  in- 
HrfMB  a  barrier  to  theea  aweeping  deaolationa, 

la  llwlr  nligiouB  belief,  they  doaot  materially  diflbr  floni 
tha  apf Br  ladiana.  Whll'?  they  baliave  ia  «aa  Gfsat  %Mt, 
tkay  ia  addition  beliava  id  aabonyaato  wfhriu,  or  iavlaibla 
■fBBfaat  to  whon  they  aacriba  nooh  tha  aaaw  power  a* 
hai  baan  aaoribad  to  witchcraft.  We  had  »  apeeinan  eC 
liK  wbaa  the  May  Daora  waa  paariag  down  tha.rivar  hi 
^tatober.  Qa  tha  aoith  aide  of  tha  CDluinbia,  near  the  con* 
iaaaoe  of  tha  Cowaliti,  there  are  aome  dark  reoeasea  ip 
lite  baaaltfo  rooka.  An  Indian  chief  oo  board  waia^  Oapt. 
L.  not  to  an>roach  thoaa  dark  plhoea;  for  they  wwa  the 
PBaidteiea  of  bad  qriritewhc^would  daetroy  tha  ahip  aad  all 
m  board.    Oapt.  L.  purpoaely  paaaedaear  thapltwa;  aad 

aiodad  there  muat  have  been  aoaM  great  *'  nwdlolna"  in  tite 
riiip  whioh  defended  ua.  They  believe  ia  the  irambttaU^ 
aC  thaapul,  and  that  ii^tlte  fetaira  atate  wa  ahall  hatalha 


mmi 


immmmimmmmimmiiiiiiM 


ma 


m 


mm 


■h. 


their  lwbiM< 
luibils,  from 
It  of  rational 
UB  (Itfgradod 
him  \mok  to 

•  of  iMd  «>• 

brought  the 

)h  will  be  M> 

hiog  but  tlM 

Mit«.     HWM 

cae  remnaati 
humanity  do 
pad  tha  aria- 
God,  will  In. 
I, 

lydiflWrftom 
GfsatC^pMti 
I,  or  invlaibto 
mm  powarat 
y  apaaiman  oC 
I  tha.rivar  ia 
near  tha  OMH 


waiBfdOapt. 
hay  waia  tha 
I  ah^  aad  all 
i»pl|M)a;  uA 
bait,  aad 
!Uoina"intlM 
I  imniittaU^ 
ImOI  havallM 


t 


*"» 


aiMAN«  or  mm  utwia  covimiT. 


961 


want*  aa  in  tbia  life.  Under  the  influence  of  thia  be- 
lief, tha  wife  of  Calpo,  an  influential  chief  of  the  Chenook 
village  near  Cape  Diaappointment,  on  loaing  •  daughter  in 
tha  year  ieU9,  killed  two  female  alavee  tu  attend  lior  to  the 
world  of  apirita,  aad  for  the  particular  purpoae  of  rowing 
her  canoe  to  the  far  <^  h*ppy  regiooa  of  the  aouth,  where 
they  kwate  their  imaginary  elyaium.  She  depoeited  her 
daughter,  with  the  two  alaia  femalea  by  her  aide  in  a  oanoe, 
with  artiolea  of  clothing  and  domeatio  implamenta.  She 
waa  the  daughter  of  Conoomly,  and  a  woman  of  diatinguiahad 
talanta  and  raapactability,  a  firm  friend  of  white  men,  aad 
had  more  than  oooa  wvad  them  from  djath.  How  dark  waa 
the  f'^'TM*  of  thia  talented  woman,  and  how  diflerently  would  ' 
aha  have  eoodueted  under  the  influenoe  of  divine  ravalatioit  f 
Thiae  Ladiaoa  never  anention  thj  name  of  their  ralativea 
after  they  are  dead. 

it  ia  only  ia  tha  lower  country  of  the  Oregon  Terrilary, 
and  aloog  the  ooait  that  alavary  axiala.  It  waa  foroMrty 
ipraotioed  in  the  upper  oouatry,  but  waa  loag  «noe  aboliahad. 
The  Walla  Walla  tribe  are  deaoeaded  from  alavaa  formerty 
Mrnipd  and  liberated  by  the  Nea  Peiod  Indiana.  They  par* 
■toad,  aa  I  have  atatad  above,  their  alavaa  to  reaide  and  to 
imannarry  in^  thair  flugniliaa,  and  rMaoning  on  the  priaai* 
plea  of  natural  juatioe,  they  eonoluded  that  it  waa  wA  right 
to  hold  in  alaivary  their  own  deaoandaata,  aad  liberated  than, 
and  they  are  now  a  reepecUble  tribe. 

Gaaibling  ia  aho  praotioed  among  the  lower  Indiana,  and 
•anrled  to  pedbotkm.  After  they  have  loat  every  tbiag 
they  poaMaa,  they  wUI  pat  themaelveaat  stake ;  firat  a  hand, 
aad  if  uaenooaaaftil,  the  other;  after  thia  aa  arm,  and  in  tha 
Muna  otaanar,  piece  by  i^eoe,  until  all  ia  loat  axeept  the  headi 
aai  at  laatthair  hea   ,  aad*  if  they  loaa  thia,  they  go  into 


iiaiii 


»¥"■"!  |ii|liW<1<ii 


Ma 


mmAM  or  na  uiwh  eooi 


>»r|wtaftl  ilavary.  If  oiviUat>d  tn«n  will  gambU,  it  ia  Aik» 
rmble  th«y  ahould  oarry  gaming  to  tli«  Mme  perfection,  for 
than  they  woald  ceaat  to  be  peata  in  aucicty ;  and  howevar 
diffisrent  may  ba  our  MUtimrnta  upon  tha  subject  uf  alavarjfy 
in  thie  wa  should  generally  be  agreed,  that  euch  •lavas 
would  not  d-Merve  much  oomniMemion.  Tha  Indians,  Itow* 
avar,  do  not  set  their  sools  at  t)ie  haiard  of  tha  game,  m 
oiTiliMtd  gamblers  do,  whan  tbay  imprecate  the  eternal 
vangf^ance  of  God  upon  themselves  if  they  are  not  su<  oeas< 
Ail.  The  Indian  gambles  away  hia  inaliooable  rlghia  lor 
tiina  only. 

It  ia  an  unive'sal  practice  f;  indulge  in  smoking,  but  thay 
do  it  in  a  dignifled  manner.  They  use  but  little  tobaooo, 
and  with  it  they  mix  fireely  a  plant  which  renders  the  fuma 
laaa  ofiansiva.  It  ia  a  social  luxury,  and  for  its  enjoynit  il 
thay  form  a  oirole,  using  only  one  pipe.  Tha  principal 
obiaf  begioa  by  drawing  three  whifla,  the  Aral  of  which 
ha  aends  upward,  and  then  passes  the  pipe  to  tha  n«at  ^v- 
aoo  in  dignity,  and  in  like  manner  it  paasea  around  until  it 
oomaa  to  tha  An«  chief  again.  He  then  drawa  four  whi&, 
tba  laat  of  which  he  blows  through  his  nose  in  two  ^hqpBnf, 
in  circling  ascent,  like  a  doubla-flued  chimney.  Whila 
thus  amployad,  Mome  topic  of  b'^sinesa  Is  diacusaed,  or  soma 
exploit  in  tha  chase,  or  some  story  of  the  battla-Aeld,  ia  ra* 
latad ;  and  Uie  whole  is  conducted  with  gravity.  Their 
i^paa  are  fariously  constructed,  aiW,  of  diflStrent  matariala. 
8.»ne  of  them  are  wrought  with  nuoh  labor  and  ingvouity 
of  an  argillaceous  stone,  of  very  fine  texture,  of  a  blue  black 
color,  found  at  the  north  of  Quee&  Charlotte'a  Island.  It  i* 
tba  same  kind  of  stone  exoept  in  c(>lor,  as  that  found  upoii 
the  head  wateni)  of  the  Missouri,  which  is  brick  red.  These 
stones,  when  Anrt  taken  out  of  the  quarriea,  are  soft  and 


# 


«iitMMMii||ii 


i\;  it  ia 
crfscdon,  ibr 
and  however 
3t  of  tlnyry, 

Mich  alaTM 
IndisHs,  how* 
the  gawM,  M 
»  the  eternal 

not  (Ut  oc 


il«  righu  lor 

Ing,  but  thejr 
ttle  tobaooo, 
lera  the  fume 
ta  enjoyntt  tA 
'he  prinoipd 
rat  of  which 
the  iK94t  petw 
oood  until  it 
I  four  whiAt, 
wo  ooluiiuwi 
ay.  Whil« 
■ed,  or  aom« 
>-fiold,  ia  re* 
rity.  Their 
tt  nmtariala. 
id  ingHiuity 
a  h!ue  black 
aland.  It  ia 
found  upon 
red.  T&ea* 
1M  msli  wui 


■MMMMMMMmKW 


msuM  or  TBB  LOW!"  cooam.  9M 

•tally  worked  with  a  knife,  but  oa  being  RXpoaed  lo  the  air, 
beooma  h«r<i,  and  are  aiMoeptible  of  a  vitry  gond  polMh. 

The  Indiena  in  the  lower  oounlry  are  m«»re  iwiolent  titan 
in  tiwi  uppor  ;  and  thfl  oomrnon  motive*  for  induHtry  operate 
rarenwly  fmin  thoee  in  civilised  ootnmunitiea.  Th«  more 
they  oan  get  (or  their  labor,  the  leea  they  will  do  ;  the  more 
thay  oan  get  for  an  article  in  aaln,  the  leaa  they  will  bring 
into  market.  Their  wanta  ar<i  but  few,  and  when  theae 
tra  aupplied,  they  will  do  oo  more,  fhay  Kkva  no  diapo« 
afticio  to  hoard  up  treaaurca,  nor  any  enlarged  plana  to  exe. 
cute,  requiring  expenae  and  labor.  If  they  liave  any  par- 
ticular ppeaent  want  to  aupply,  they  will  do  what  ia  eulR- 
oiant  to  aatiafy  it,  and  make  no  further  effort  until  urged  by 
a  returning  neoeaaity.  To  make  them  induatrioua  and  prov- 
klaot,  you  muat  induce  them  to  set  a  higher  ratimate  upon 
the  oomforta  of  life,  and  ahow  them  that  they  are  attainable, 
and  that  there  ia  an  increaae  of  happineaa  growing  out  of 
induatry ;  and  all  thia  muat  be  learned  by  experience,  fbr 
abairaot  reaaoning  and  theoriea  i  e  of  no  avail.  An  Indian 
may  be  taken  abroad  and  inatn  ted,  and  oonvinoed  of  the 
•dvantagea  of  oiviiication,  but  if  •«>!!»  back  to  bia  country 
dkMM,  he  will  become  diaoouraged,  and  return  to  hk  tbrmer 
babita.  Miaaionariea,  and  practical  fkrmera,  and  artiaane, 
muat  go  among  them,  and  make  it  the  buaineaa  of  their 
Uvea  to  do  them  good,  and  identify  their  own  intereata  with 
theini.  Charging  them  with  indolence,  and  inaensibility, 
and  cruelty,  will  never  noake  them  wiaer  or  better.  He  ia 
the  true  philanthropiat,  who,  inatead  of  naasing  by  on  the 
ether  aide,  goea  to  them,  and  does  all  in  his  power  to  raiae 
them  from  their  degradation,  and  bring  them  to  God  and  to 
heavea.  ,    "• 

The  Indians  of  the  lower  country,  although  leas  anxious 


IHIHANt   or  TBI   LOWII   COVHTaT. 


Id  b*  inmruotad  in  the  Mnf^t  of  nUffUM,  than  thnM  of  iIm 
upper  country,  mprtM  •  raadincaa  to  rmmi^tt  liurtructorik 
I  Imv«  not  <liubd  among  tham,  nor  any  Indianii  bayfMid  th« 
inAuonoM  of  fnmltor  unttldmonlfl,  any  thing  lih«  what  haa 
bean  atatad  to  have  talien  place  in  (rther  aeotlona  of  our 
oountry  :  that  they  will  lialen  to  atateinenla  made  by  mia- 
•ionariea,  and  give  their  aaMint  to  what  ia  aaid  aa  very  good ; 
and  then  atato  their  own  theoriea  of  relifioa,  expecting  the 
iame  oourteoua  aaaeiit  in  return.  Neither  have  I  aeen  any 
diapoeitidn  nianifvated,  to  aay  that  the  ChriatJan  religion  !a 
'  good  for  white  nMn,  but  aa  red  men  dtflfer,  they  need  a  dif- 
llimit  religion  and  mode  of  life.  They  have  not  yet  been  in- 
■tlgated  by  infldela  to  aay  auoh  thinga.  They  ai«  oonaoioua 
of  their  ignorance  of  Ood  and  aalvation,  and  of  the  varioua 
•rta  and  aoienoea.  While  an  indiflerence  and  apathy  char- 
ACterise  acme,  which  i«  diaoouraging,  yet  I  know  of  no  in. 
auperable  obataolea  to  their  improvement. 

While  gratitude  ia  a  general  oharaotorlatio  of  Indiana, 
they  have  in  aome  oaaea  their  peculiar  way  of  expreaaing 
it.  An  Indian  had  a  aon  laboring  for  a  !ong  time  undisr  a 
lingering  and  dangoroua  complaint.  Their  medicine  man' 
had  done  all  they  could  for  him,  but  witliout  auooeaa.  The 
fiuhar  brought  hie  aon  to  the  hoapiul  at  Port  Vancoavar, 
•nd  eameatly  dealred  to  have  him  treated  with  care  and 
with  the  beat  medical  attendanoe.  The  alok  aon  waa  re- 
ceived, and  in  about  aix  mmitha  waa  rertored  to  health. 
•When  hia  fkther  came  to  take  him  home,  he  remarked  to 
Dr.  MoL.  **  My  aon  ia  a  good  boy,  he  haa  been  with  you  a 
long  time,  and  I  think  you  muat  love  him ;  and  now  aa  ha  ia 
about  to  leave  you,  will  you  not  give  him  a  blanket  and 
ahirt,  and  aa  many  other  amall  thinga  aa  you  think  will  be 
good  t    We  ahall  alwaya  love  you.' 


■wmmmMN 


■•PP 


If. 

in  thoM  of  tiM 
ivo  iiMtruotor*. 
ina  bflyfMid  th« 

\\h*  what  Km 
wotlona  of  our 
•  made  by  mi*- 
I  M  very  good; 

expecting  Um 
kve  I  eeen  any 
Jan  religion  !« 
My  HMd  a  difi 
not  yet  been  in. 
'  ai«  oomoiout 
of  the  varioua 
d  apathy  ohar- 
know  of  no  ia. 

do  of  Indiana, 
of  expreeting 
:  time  under  a 
medicine  man 
lucoeaa.  Tb« 
»rt  VancoQTar, 
irith  cani  and 
It  aon  was  r«. 
red  to  heallll. 
9  remarked  to 
i«n  with  you  a 
ad  now  aa  he  if 
a  blanket  and 
I  think  will  W 


muM  Of  Toa  utwaa  coommf . 


MA 


Tha  lower  loduuM  "  make  their  m«dk}tiie,"  m  sonM  fU- 
liouUra,  dilTorently  fnm  those  farther  Maat.  Their  pro<lMMd 
objauta  are  to  obtalu  praaent  relief,  if  n«>t  a  radical  cuiv  ; 
to  m»k9  hia  (iiil  more  eaay  if  the  patient  tiicn,  and  that  hia 
•oul  may  be  roiwlered  capable  of  periurminK  ila  jounii>y  to 
Ita  far  diataiit  and  happy  country,  aud  alao  to  aaauage  the 
■onow  of  aurviving  ralativea.  Th^  prooeaa  ia  aunple,  and 
oooupiea  flvo  or  aix  houra.  The  patient  ia  laid  upon  a  b«d 
of  mau  and  blanketa,  aomttimea  a  little  elovated,  and  aur- 
rounded  by  a  frame  work.  Two  "  madioine  men"  placw 
thatnaalvea  upon  ihia  frame,  and  comnnno*  a  chant  in  low 
loeg'drawn  tonea,  each  holdittg  a  waud  in  hia  hand,  three 
or  four  feet  long,  with  which  th«y  beat  uptni  the  fVame, 
keeping  lime  with  their  tune.  They  gradually  inoraaae 
the  loudneaa  and  the  movement  of  their  medicine  anng,  with 
a  oorreapondent  uae  of  their  wand,  until  the  noiae  beoomea 
tlmoat  deafening,  and  undoubtedly  often  hurriea  the  patient 
out  of  the  world.  During  thia  lime  the  near  ralatiuna  afftct 
indifference  to  the  nondition  of  the  nick  peraon,  leat  their 
•nxiaty  ahould  oounteraot  the  influence  of  the  charm,  and 
th«y  are  generally  employed  about  tlieir  oomnnon  buaineaa, 
tho  women  in  making  mata,  baaketa,  and  moooaaona  ;  and 
tlM  loan  loitering  about,  smoking,  or  converting  upon  oom- 
mon  aubjeota.  In  aome  caaea,  eapeoially  if  their  oonfidenoe 
in  tlie  medicine  man  i*  amall,  they  manifoat  muoh  affliction 
mm)  ooaoem ;  and  in  all  caaea  after  the  peraon  dieo,  they 
hmJui  great  lamentation. 

1  have  already  mentioned  the  practice  of  the  lower  na- 
tiooa  of  flattening  their  heada  and  piercing  their  noaea.  But 
aiKAhar  raportad  ouatom,  of  having  pieoea  of  aea-horte'a 
ttiaka,  or  oval  pieoea  of  wood  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  an 
iaoh  wide,  iiMwrtad  into  a  holo  in  their  upper  lip,  made  for 


MiMii 


MlllHiMllte^ 


[ 


I 


f' 


,, 


fmm 


aM 


wi  ,nfmipiij.pwwww 


mfmm 


iMtwy"*" 


moLiHi  or  m  towit  c<wbt»i. 


iks  parpoM,  ia  not  correct  in  regard  to  wy  of  the  Indiuu 
in  this  seotioD  of  country.  Cmptoin  Beeohy  raenUoas  h  m 
A  oomnwn  practice  from  Norton'*  Wand  and  northward  ; 
which  was  notioed  by  Deshnow,  as  long  ago  as  1«48,  that 
this  ornament  was  worn  by  men  and  women  about  Pri»M»e 
William's  sound,  and  which  custom,  Captain  B.  says,  is 
ooi.imon  the  whole  distance  along  the  western  shores  of 
America,  as  iar  as  California.  I  saw  some  specimens  of 
this  ornament,  or  rather  deformity,  which  were  w<wii  by 
the  natives  at  Millbauk  Soi-ud. 

-   The  wealth  of  the  lower  Indians  is  estimated  by  the  nuw- 
ber  of  their  wives,  slaves,  and  canoes.    Every  Indian  of  any 
distinction  takee  as  many  wives  as  he  is     le  to  support, 
and  his  wealth  is  supposed  to  accord  v,.ih   the   number. 
They  are  quite  destitute  of  horses,  and  their  i^lmost  only 
mode  of  traveling  is  in  canoes ;  for  the  forests  are  so  dense 
thattibey  are  nearly  impenetrable,  and  they  do  not  eonstraot 
•oy  roads.    iiS  the  upper  Indians  excel  in  horsemanship, 
so  these  exct.  in  the  management  of  canoes,  which  a?e  un- 
commonly well  made,  and  of  various  timt,  ftom  twelve  w 
thirty  feet  long ;  the  largest  will  carry  as  much  as  a  good 
bateau,  aad  are  generally  made  of  the  fir  tree.    The' 
bow  and  stem  are  raised  high,  so  as  lo  meet  and  ward  off 
Uie  boisterous  waves,  and  the  bow  is  sometimes  de«omted 
with  figures  of  animalfi,  aad  the  upper  edge  of  tfie  canoe  is 
ornamented  wHh  shells.    Slaves  we  employed  In  propelling 
the  canoes,  but  not  exclusively  ;  for  often  the  chiefs  will 
parfomi  their  part  of  the  lahor,  vA  the  women  are  e^«»lly 
expert  with  the  men.         '"-  '-^  ■"'■^'  '"-  '*'*^' 

Jiieir  muLufiictures  do  not  widely  diftu*  from  thoee  of  die 
upper  country,  with  the  addition  of  hats  and  bartets  of  *il- 
fcl  workmanriiip.  made  of  grass  of  superior  quality,  equal 


hfriitrjftrifrffii'^"-f''-"''"'^''""-"-'''  ''  '"""■''■""""■'■ 


aitfBrriai 


^^^^^ilij^ii^i^g^^g^jg^giip^, 


wffmfiw 


■wsf 


pin 


.IliiMW 


m, 


of  the  lodiuu 
roentioiui  H  u 
id  northward ; 
>  M  1048,  that 
I  about  Prince 
in  B.  says,  ia 
Item  thoree  of 
i  speoimens  of 
were  w<Mti  by 

ed  by  the  num- 
^  Indian  of  any 
ible  to  support, 
i  the  number, 
lir  i^lraost  only 
Its  are  ao  dense 
lonot  eonstraot 
I  horsemanship, 
\j  whieh  Km  ua- 
from  twelve  w 
much  as  a  good 

fir  tree.  Thr 
et  and  vard  off 
times  deoonited 
i  of  tfie  oanoa^i 
sd  In  propelling 

the  cMefs  will 
nen  are  equally 

B>om  those  of  die 
Ibasltetsofdkil- 
n  quali^,  tqml 


IMDLANS  or  TH»  LOWfiK  COUimiT. 


Wf 


to  the  Leghorn.  The  naUve  hats  are  a  flaring  cone.  Their 
baskets  are  worked  so  closely  as  to  hold  water,  and  are 
often  used  for  pails.  Some  of  them  are  Interwoven  with 
various  colors  and  devices,  fancifully  representing  men, 
horses,  and  flowers. 

The  government  o!f  the  Indian  nations  is  in  the  hands  of 
chiefe,  whose  oflice  is  hereditary,  or  obuined  by  some  spe- 
cial  merit.  Their  only  power  is  influence;  and  this  in 
proportion  to  their  wisdom,  benevolence,  and  courage. 
They  do  not  exerois*  ai-thority  by  command,  but  influence 
by  persuasion,  stating  what  in  their  judgment  they  believe 
to  be  right  and  for  the  greatest  good  of  their  tribe  or  nation, 
or  of  any  family  or  community.  The  chiefs  have  no  pow- 
er of  levying  uxes,  and  they  are  so  much  in  the  habit  of 
oontributmg  their  own  property  for  individual  or  public 
good,  that  they  are  not  generally  wealthy.  Their  influence 
however  is  great ;  for  they  rarely  express  an  opinion  or  de. 
wire,  which  is  not  readily  assented  to  and  followed.  Any 
unreasonable  dissent  is  subdued  by  the  common  voice  of 
the  people.  Probably  there  is  no  government  upon  earth 
where  there  is  ao  much  personal  and  political  freedom,  and 
at  the  same  time  so  little  anarohy ;  and  I  can  unhesitatingly 
s^y,  that  I  have  nowhere  witnessed  .x)  much  subordination, 
peace,  friendship,  and  confidence  as  exists  amoiig  the  Indi- 
ans,  in  the  Oregon  Territory.  The  day  may  be  rued,  when 
their  «rddr  and  harmony  ehall  be  interrupted  by  any  instru- 
mentality whatever. 

There  are  exceptions,  however,  to  the  general  fact  of  the 
good  conduct  of  the  chiefs  and  the  respect  whieh  is  given 
them.  Cazenove,  the  first  chief  of  the  Chenook  nationris 
one.  He  was  a  great  warrior,  and  before  the  desolating 
sickness,  which  commenced  in  the  year  1829,  could  brinir 

23  * 


^11 


MHB 


mm* 


<m  « "fW 


r 


z. 


{ 


T 


iN  nisuifs  or  thi  lowbe  coomist. 

a  thouMnd  warriors  into  action.    H«  is  a  man  of  talents, 
and  lus  personal  appearance  ia  noble,  and  ought  to  represent 
•  nature  kind  and  generous ;  but  such  is  his  character,  that 
his  influence  is  retained  among  his  people  more  by  fear 
than  by  affection.     I  saw  him  often,  and  several  tiroes  at 
my  room,  while  at  Fort  Vancouver.    On  Tuesday,  Februa- 
ry 2d,  I  attended  the  funeral  of  his  only  son,  the  heir  to  his 
chiefVainship,  a  young  man  who  had  lingered  under  a  pro- 
tracted disease.    Cazenove  departed  from  the  long  estab- 
lished custom  of  his  nation  and  fathers  of  depositing  the 
dead,  in  canoes,  and  had  him  buried  tn  the  cemetery  of  the 
Fort,  in  the  decent  manner  of  civilized  people.    He  had  the 
oo9|n  made  laige  for  the  purpose  of  putting  into  it  clothing, 
blankets,  and  such  other  articles,  as  he  supposed  neoenaary 
for  the  comfort  of  his  son  in  the  world  to  which  he  was 
gone.    Every'  thing  connected  wilth  the  coremony  of  the 
interment  was  conducted  with  great  pnqpriety.    I  was  not 
at  the  time  fiimished  with  an  interpreter,  but  addresMd 
thcw  preeent  who  understood  English.    CaioioveezpraMed 
his  satisfootinn  that  an  address  was  given,  considering  it  a 
tokM!  of  respect  for  his  son ;  and  appeared  solemn  in  his 
affliotioni  ii^ulging  tears  only,  <nd  not  any  load  lameota- 
tkms.    Had  he  conducted  with  equal  propriety  eubeequenlly, 
he  would  have  been  worthy  of  oommeadation^    Bi!t  when 
he  ratumed  to  his  dwelling  that  eveBfav,  he  attempted  to 
kill  the  mother  of  this  deoeased  boo,  who  was  tbe'dai^fater 
of  Conoomly,  and  fcmnerly  the  wife  of  Mr.  MoDoog^. 
The  ohieft  m]|  that  they  and  their  sons  are  too  great  to 
die  of  4i«miaelii%s,  and  although  they  may  be  sick,  and  de* 
cUne,  and  die,  aa  others  do,  yet  tome  penon,  or  some  evil 
spirit  inatigaled  by  some  <»ae,  ia  the  invirible  cause  of  their 
denth ;  und  theivfore  whep  »  ohie^  or  chief '«  son  di^s,  the 


■''-"  -■^'^-- 


MMiltfiteaitrMialkWiNli 


tllffliifiiittiiiiir'^ 


■B 


pi 


""mm 


am  of  talent!, 
httorepreMDt 
iharaoter,  that 
more  by  fear 
reral  times  at 
isday,  Februa- 
the  heir  to  his 
1  under  a  pro- 
\\e  long  estab- 
depoiuting  the 
imetery  of.  the 
B.     He  had  the 
nto  it  olothing, 
osed  neoeeaary 
which  he  was 
remony  of  the 
ty.    I  was  not 
but  addressed 
oove  expressed 
jonsidering  it  a 
i  solemn  in  his 
'  loud  lanteota- 
j^sobeequenlly, 
on^    But  when 
le  attempted  to 
IS  tite'daimfatftr 
fr.  MoDoogal. 
ire  too  g^eatto 
e  siok,  and  cto> 
B,  or  some  evil 
I  cause  of  their 
f's  son  di£«,  the 


wDURs  or  Tn  lowm  cotmniT.  Mi 

supposed  author  of  the  deed  must  be  killed.  Cazenove,  on 
this  occasion,  fixed  on  the  mother  of  this  son  as  the  victim 
of  his  rage,  notwithstanding  she  Jsad  been  most  assiduous  in 
her  attention  to  him,  during  his  protracted  sickness.  Of 
his  several  wives,  she  was  the  most  beloved,  and  his  mis. 
guided  mind  led  him  to  believe,  that  the  greatei  the  sacri- 
fice, the  greater  the  manifestation  of  his  attachment  to  his 
son,  and  the  more  propiUatoiy  to  his  departed  spirit.  She 
fled  into  the  woois,  and  the  next  morning,  when  the  gates 
were  opened,  came  into  this  fort  and  implored  protection. 
She  was  secreted  here  several  days,  until  her  friends  at 
Chenook  Bay  beard  of  her  situation,  and  came  and  secretly, 
took  her  away.  Some  days  after  this,  a  woman  was  found 
killed  by  the  hand  of  violence,  and  it  was  supposed  to  Jmve 
been  done  by  Cazenove  or  some  one  in  his  employ.. 


mimmf^ 


OOlfTgMATION   Vmi   AH  IMDUN. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

ConTwntioa  with  tn  intellipint  Indian— mcoting  with  Indlwi*— 
Mrly  Mid  mild  mukmi— La  DtllM  Indiana— their  anxietj  to  reoeira 
Iha  goapal— Nootka  hanuniaf  bird— nimber  and  ioeation  of  tho 
Indiaiw  in  tb«  lower  ooontry— Indiana  of  the  north— tL«  aciUtad 
quaation — aolltarineaa. 

A  TiaY  intolligent  and  iniluential  Indian  from  the  Cas- 
oadm  ocUed  at  my  room,  on  the  8th  of  February,  to  en- 
quira  about  God.  I  endeavored  to  obtain  from  him  hi*  own 
system  of  religion.  He  said,  he  believed  there  is  a  God, 
and  he  anppoeed  he  made  all  things,  but  he  did  not  know 
any  thing  more  about  him.  I  questioned  hum  in  r^ard  to 
his  twlief  of  a  fiiture  state,  and  what  he  expected  would  be< 
•OBM  of  him  when  he  died.  He  said  he  did  not  know.  He 
Muppoeed  that  he  should  havo  an  existence  aAer  death,  but 
did  not  know  what  it  would  be ;  and  wished  me  to  tell  him. 
I  endeavored  to  enlighten  his  mind,  and  to  jinfold  to  him 
the  groat  fundamental  truths  of  God  and  eternity,  and  the 
way  to  be  saved.  He  listened  with  attention,  and  appeared 
sober.  He  told  me  the  Indians  were  growing  better ;  thnt 
they  did  not  kill  each  other  in  wan  as  in  times  past ;  that, 
they  did  not  rob  and  steal  as  heretofore.  I  told  him  that 
was  good,  but  to  be  saved  they  mast  repent  and  receive  the 
Savior  by  ftjth,  as  the  only  hope  for  ainoera.  So  benighted 
Kf  the  mtnde  of  these  heathen,  and  so  barren  tbeir  Ian- 
gtMge  upon  spiritual  and  invidble  subjects,  ttet  I  had  to 
use  such  illustrations  as  I  judged  best  ada^jied  to  convey 


<iilligriiHfe'Biii>liii  I  ■  'T  mr  ■— — ^ 


iiid'a'ii"Hiiiii»ir»')i»iiii^»*' 


mt 


k 


tA  OALUM  UfDIANS. 


rith  IndUni^- 
jiety  to  rewire 
oeation  of  the 


roA)  the  Cas- 
rucry,  to  en- 
him  hi*  own 
ra  is  •  God, 
id  not  know 

in  i^ard  to 
ftd  would  be- 
it  Imow.  He 
er  death,  but 
9  to  tell  him. 
nfold  to  him 
nity,  and  the 
uid  appeared 

better;  thnt 
m  past;  that. 
toH  him  that 
d  receive  the 
So  benighted 
en  their  Ian- 
ttet  I  had  to 
ed  to  owrey 


Mi 


truth  to  his  mind,  and  I  doubt  not  that  he  received  seme 
Icnowledge. 

The  next  day  he  called  again,  and  wished  me  to  take  ids 

children  and  teach  them  how  to  read  and  write,  and  to  wor. 

ship  God.     I  endeavored  to  explain  to  him  the  object  of  my 

tour,  and  that  wlwn  I  returned,  I  would  use  my  influence  to 

have  oljiers  come  and  live  among  them.    But  he  wanted 

me  to  continue  with  them  and  instruct  them.    And  when  I 

told      >  IfiMist  go,  and  endeavor  to  get  several  to  come  and 

teaoh  in  different  tribes,  he  wished   to  know  how  many 

sleeps  it  would  take  me  to  go,  and  how  many  sleeps  before 

others  would  come.    I  told  him  it  would  be  a  great  number. 

He  wished  to  know  if  it  would  be  moons.    I  answered  in 

the  affirmaUve,  and  told  him  it  would  be  at  least  two  snows. 

He  paused  and  looked  sorrowful.    His  very  look  affected 

me ;  he  arose  and  went  out. 

Sabbatli,  14th.     I  attended  service  as  usual  in  English. 

There  were  many  Indians  from  the  La  Dalles  who  wishsd 

to  know  if  they  might  be  present      We  told  them  there 

would  not  be  sufficient  room  in  the  hall,  but  a  few  of  their 

chiefenught  at*end,  and  after  the  English  service  I  would 

meet  with  them ;  which  I  accordingly  did  in  the  afternoon. 

They  were  punctual  at  the  hour,  and  came  in  single  file, 

the  fintchief  leading  the  way.     When  I  prayed  with  them, 

th^  all  kneeled  down  except  two  or  three,  and  these  wen 

reprimanded  by  the  chief  for  impropriety  of  conduct.    As 

'm  other  similar  occasions,  I  endeavored  to  instruct  them  in 

'.I^  first  principles  of  our  ravealed  religion,  to  which  they 

iimve  strict  attention.     The  first  chie^  at  the  close  of  service 

wished  to  sneak, ;  and  cm  receiving  permission,  spoke  a  short 

time  to  his  people,  and  then  told  me  he  had  prayed  mu(A  to 

the  Ghiiat  Spirit,  and  found  his  heart  was  no  bettor,  but 

28« 


irt'iiiiiH<iih''i''ii*i<*' 


lAtLT  irims. 

worse.    He  said,  a  white  man  gave  ttiem  a  flag,  and  toW 
them  to  set  it  up  on  a  pole,  on  Sundays,  and  meet  and  pray, 
sing  their  songs,  and  dance  around  the  pole  bearing  the  flag ; 
and  that  they  had  done  so  a  long  time.     He  wished  to 
know  if  this  was  right.*   I  told  him  it  was  right  to  meet  and 
pray,  and  sing,  and  talk  about  God,  but  to  dance  on  the 
Babbath  was  very  wrong,  and  would  offend  Gt-u.     I  added 
fcrther,  that  they  needed  some  perw>n  to  teach  them  the 
right  way  to  worship  God  and  to  be  saved.     He  was  affect- 
ed,  and  kneeled  down  and  with  tears  in  his  eyes  said,  if  you 
must  go  away,  do  send  us  some  one  to  teach  us  the  right 
way  to  serve  God.    We  will  now  throw  away  what  the  man 
said  to  us  about  dancing.    We  will  go  to  our  people  and 
tell  them  what  you  have  said,  and  worship  God  as  you  have 
taught  us.     I  never  felt  so  much  like  weeping  over  the 
heathen,  as  oq  this  occasion ;  to  see  this  poor  benighted 
Indian  chief  upon  hia  knees,  with  tears  in  his  eyes  pleading 
for  some  one  to  come  and  teach  them  the  way  to  heaven. 
What  a  spectacle ! 

Maroh  let.  We  have  many  indications  of  the  presence 
of  spring.  The  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the  soft  tern- 
perature  of  the  season  west  of  the  mountains,  render  it  one 
of  the  moM  delightful  portions  of  our  continent.  The  wide 
and  sudden  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  to  which  the  east- 
em  portions  are  subject,  are  almost  unknown  here,  and 
while  this  is  more  agreeable,  it  is  also  more  favorable  to 
health.  Those  who  have  the  charge  of  the  farming  estab- 
lishment at  this  place,  have  commenced  sowing  thus  early 

•The  roaaon  Mugned  for  incluiling  dsncing  in  the  servioM  of  the 
holy  EMibath,  wm  tne  fear,  that  Maging  and  praTing  witbout  dancing, 
would  not  hoJeret^f  the  Indiana  t  aad  to  inolode  it  would  not  be  >e 
great  a  departur»  from  their  common  practice!,  aa  to  excite  averaion 
to  worship. 


iaiM 


i>iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiaii'ii|iiiiilll)5>l 


flag,  »nd  to14 
loot  and  pray, 
tring  the  flag ; 
He  wished  to 
ht  to  meet  an^ 
danoe  on  the 
3ou.     I  added 
laoh  them  lh« 
He  waa  afTeot- 
m  said,  if  you 
I  us  the  right 
what  the  man 
ir  people  and 
xi  an  you  have 
ping  over  the 
KX>r  benighted 
eyes  pleading 
ay  to  hearen. 

f  the  presence 
d  the  soft  tem. 
I,  render  it  one 
nt.  The  wide 
ivhioh  the  east' 
wn  here,  and 
«  favorable  to 
farmiiig  eatab* 
ring  thus  early 

he  MrvioM  of  the 

without  dfencing, 

wouM  cot  be  itt 

to  excite  aTenion 


■no  CUMATI. 

their  spring  ero,js ;  and  the  gardener  is  preparing  his  ground 
for  the  seeds.  The  grass  in  the  yard  begins  to  assume  its 
beauUfuI,  fresh  green.  The  robin  and  blackbird  liave  con- 
tinued  here  through  the  winter,  and  now,  with  some  others 
of  their  feathered  brethren,  resume  their  eheerful  warb- 
lings  in  the  fields  and  groves.  During  the  winter,  the  ther- 
momoter  has  not  fallen  below  22°  Fahrenlieit,  and  to  this 
point  only  three  days.  At  this  date,  it  stood  at  sunrise,  at 
37° ;  at  noon,  46° ;  and  at  sunset,  at  44".  The  rains  through 
the  winter  have  been  less  constant  and  heavy  than  I  antici- 
pated ;  and  snow  has  fallen  only  ten  days,  sometimes  in 
trifling  quantities,  and  at  no  one  time  over  vhe  depth  of  six 
inches,  and  has  remained  on  the  ground  only  a  few  days. 
Some  l»vo  supposed,  that  the  genial  climate  of  the  Oregon 
Territory  is  attributable  to  the  proximity  of  the  great  Pa- 
cific, shedding  the  influence  of  its  soft  winds  far  into  the  ia. 
terior.  Butt  the  fact  is,  that  blmost  the  only  winds  through 
the  winter  an?  ewrteriy  win<<8,  consequently  coming  directly 
from  the  regions  ot  p«)-^tuftl  snow. 

A  number  ot  the  l-*  Dsilfts  Indians  arrived  to-day,  who 
reside  eighty  miles  distant.  One  of  thsir  chiefs  stated  to 
my  friend  Mr.  T.  that  they  had  changed  their  mode  of 
worship ;  that  they  do  not  now  dance  on  the  Sabbath,  as 
they  used  to  do,  but  they  meet  and  sing,  and  pray  ;  and 
that  since  they  have  been  better  acquainted  with  the  way 
to  worship  God,  He  hears  their  prayers,  and  that  now, 
when  they  and  their  wives  and  children  are  hungry ^hey 
pray  for  deer,  and  go  out  to  hunt,  and  God  senda  them 
deer  to  satisfy  their  wants.  It  was  interesting  to  know 
that  they  were- disposed  to  practice,  as  Well  as  luten  to 
what  is  taught  them. 

Sabbath,  18th.     Besides  the  usual  service  in  the  hall  in 


i 


THI   NOOTXA  IVMICim   UID. 

English,  I  nwt  the  Indwns  from  th«  Lt  D»Ue«,  wwleadwiv. 
ored  to  exhibit  to  th«m  the  grant  truth*  of  the  Bible.  They 
listened  with  deep  Intereetto  what  I  Mid,  and  then  enquired 
whether  they  might  expect,  after  I  abould  go  away,  that 
»ome  one  would  oome  and  teaoh  them.  I  could  not  promiee, 
but  replied  that  I  hoped  it  would  not  be  more  than  two 
snows,  before  some  one  would  be  sent.  They  enquired  if 
after  one  or  two  sleeps,  I  would  let  them  oeme  to  my  room 
and  hear  more  about  God.  I  agreed  to  meet  them  on 
Tuesday  afternoon,  and  addressed  them  several  succeeding 
times  before  their  departure. 

It  seems  apparent  to  any  observing  Christian,  that  the 
present  is  the  favorable  time  for  the  introduction  of  the 
gospel  and  oiviliiation  among  the  natives  of  this  wide  inte- 
rior. Soon  the  cupidity  and  avarice  of  men  will  make  ag- 
gressions here,  and  the  deadly  influence  of  frontier  vices 
will  interpose  a  barrier  to  the  religion  which  they  now  ara 
so  anxious  to  embr»oe  and  practice.  Every  oiroumatanoe 
combines  to  point  out  the  time  when  this  work  should  begin, 
and  one  of  the  meet  important  is  that  these  Indians  a>e  en- 
listed in  favor  of  white  men,  and  feel  that  their  condition,  in 
all  respects,  for'  this  world,  as  well  as  the  coming  one,  is 
better  than  their  own.  A  well-eetabli*h«l  Christian  inHu- 
•nee  among  the»«  tribes<  wouW  swrely  be  respected  by  those 
wlK)  otherwise  would  invade  theif  rights,  and  deprive  them 
of  a  home  as  dear  to  them  as  our  own  is  to  us. 

March  a4th.  The  season  is  progressing  m  delightAil 
mildnees.  Flowering  shrubbery  and  plants  are  beginning 
to  send  forth  their  fragrance ;  and  the  Nootka  humming 
bird  hae  arrived,  and  is  seen  darting  from  bush  to  bush, 
feeding  upon  the  open  flowera.  This  mort  splendid  species 
is  not  known  east  of  the  mountains.    The  whole  of  the  up- 


B^laaai-ia. 


w^mmtlmim 


i 


I,  and  endMV< 
Bible.  They 
then  enquired 
1^  «w»y,  that 
d  not  promiW) 
lore  than  two 
ty  enquired  if 
le  to  my  room 
meet  them  on 
ml  auooeeding 

itian,  that  the 
uotion  of  the 
this  wide  inte* 
will  make  ag- 

firontier  vioea 
1  they  now  are 

oiroiunatanoe 
I  should  begin, 
odians  aw  en- 
ir  oonditicm,  in 
joming  one,  is 
ShristiaD  inliu- 
leoted  by  those 
1  deprive  them 

{  in  delightftil 
are  beginning 
otka  humming 
bush  to  bush, 
plendid  species 
hole  of  the  up- 


TD  DRKAir  VAItOHI.  f|| 

per  part  of  the  body  is  rufiNjs,  the  head  greenish,  the  throat 
cupreous  and  metalloidal  orimwMi,  varying  aocording  to  the 
incidence  of  light.  The  throat  of  this  speuies  resembles 
that  of  the  common,  except,  that  it  is  even  more  gorgeous 
in  its  colors,  and  in  presenting  the  metallic  feathers,  forms 
a  broad  ruff  in  the  inferior  part  of  the  neck,  instead  of  being 
wholly  a  component  part  of  the  plumage.  The  swallows 
made  their  appearance  on  the  ISstii,  and  a  new  species  of 
blue  bird  of  uncommonly  beautiful  plumage,  arrived  on  the 
14th.  The  swan,  several  species  of  geese,  and  the  sand 
hill  crane,  ore  passing  to  the  north  for  incubation.  Their 
screaming  notes  are  oonsUntly  heard,  and  in  the  night  are 
not  the  most  fttvomble  to  repoee. 

Before  leaving  the  lower  country,  it  will  be  proper  to 
present,  in  a  connected  view,  the  best  information  I  have 
been  able  to  obtain  of  the  several  nations,  their  locations, 
and  numbers.  There  are  several  triber,  about  whom  my 
knowledge  is  too  limited  to  make  any  definite  statements. 
Among  them  are  those  about  Pugets  Sound,  and  the  upper 
part  of  the  Ck)walita;  also  the  Chlltz  Indians,  north  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  Chealis  rivers.  And  although 
I  have  Been  many  of  the  Klioatat  nation,  who  reside  at  the 
north  of  the  Cascades,  yet  I  have  not  been  ablu  to  learn  of 
them  any  thing  more  definite,  than  that  they  ar«  a  large 
naUon.  The  Chenook  nation  resides  along  upon  the  Co- 
lumbia  river,  from  the  Cascades  to  its  confluence  with  ihm 
ocean,  and  though  oaoe  numerous  and  powerful,  now  mim- 
bers  not  more  than  fifteen  hundred,  or  two  thousand.* 


•  My  method  of  eompating  Uw  number  ofperaoiM  in  a  nstien,  wai 
to  sMwrtua  tb*  uwabu  «f  Umr  lodfM,  wiiiob  muHj  esolsin  UH  one 
tamiljr,  ud  ■Ilowm*  five  pwrnms  to  constitute  a  funily,  which  ia  a 
moderate  ertimate,  the  number  of  the  nation  it  obtained :  m  that,  by 


nw 


WMAN  tTiTfONt. 

TIm  C«Iiit>o(«h  iwtion  mn  luoated  trtuth  of  Am  Chenooin, 
ypon  tliA  WiUitmette  rirer  and  iti  branohM.  They  ara  di. 
vided  into  MV«intMn  diflferent  tribea,  under  their  reapeotivo 
ohiefii,  luid  number  about  eight  ihouaand  reven  hundred  and 
eighty  peraona,  who  apeak  the  Muno  language,  radically, 
uritii  only  a  I'ttle  diflerenoe  in  dialect.  They  are  moatteted 
over  •  territcry  of  two  hundred  niilea  north  and  nouth,  and 
ilxty  eaat  ard  went.     Their  country  ia  unoommonly  good. 

South  of  the  Calapooah  ia  the  UmbaquI  nation,  reaiding 
In  a  valley  of  the  Mme  name.  They  are  divided  into  aix 
tribea;  the  Soonta,  Chalula,  Palakahu,  Quattamya,  and 
Chaati.  Their  number  ia  about  aeven  thouaand.  South  of 
thia  nation  and  north  of  California,  there  was  a  very  power, 
ful  nation  called  the  KincU,  which  before  the  year  18110, 
numbered  four  thouaand  warriora.  But  if  they  have  been 
swept  away  by  sickneaa,  aa  the  other  nationa  of  the  lower 
country  have,  it  ia  probable  their  whole  number  of  men, 
women  and  children,  would  not  now  amount  to  more  than 
eight  thouaand. 

Near  the  mouth  of  tho  Columbia,  along  the  ooaat,  are  the 
Killamooka,  who  are  numerous,  but  their  numbera  I  could 
not  aacertftin.  South  of  theae,  and  at  tho  mouth  of  the  Urn- 
baqu&  river,  there  are  the  SaliOtla,  and  two  other  tribea, 
•uppoaed  to  number  2000  peraooa. 

Thia  estimate  of  the  Indiana,  in  the  lower  country,  makea 
the  number  of  those  known,  to  be  about  twenty -five  thou- 
sand. This  ia  probably'  a  low  estimate.  It  may  safely  be 
concluded,  from  facts  now  collected,  that  there  are,  between 
the  42®  and  47°  north  latitute,  in  what  we  term  the  lower 


this  mtthod  of  oompuUtion,  the  following  Mtiin*i«  of  Intfittrnt  in  aad 
altoat  the  Oregon  Territory,  ii  not  oTer>r«tod,  but  ImIow  the  t*e»l  num. 
ber. 


IWiiiMiMiiiiiiiiMi^^ 


m I  iiiiiiri 


■■I 


mm 


he  Ch«nooka, 
They  ere  di. 
eir  reapeotiv« 
hundred  and 
;e,  imdioklly, 
'  B.n  noattated 
nd  nouth,  and 
nmonly  good, 
ktion,  residing 
ivided  into  aix 
attamya,  and 
nd.  South  of 
a  very  power. 
ie  year  1890, 
«y  have  been 
of  the  lower 
mber  of  men, 
t  to  more  than 

ooaat,  are  the 
mben  I  could 
nth  of  the  Um. 
>  other  tribes, 

louatry,  make* 
enty-fire  thou- 
may  aafely  bo 
«  are,  between 
ivia  the  lower 


tf  Iii«ti«\ns  in  aad 

low  the  i-oftl  num< 


mnuNV. 

country,  ai  many  a*  twenty^ve  thoueand  more,  inakinf^ 
my  thouMnd,  who  prebably  at  the  present  moment  would 
gladly  receive  teaehera. 

Gentlemen  uf  the  Iludaon  Bay  Company^ave  ^le  follow, 
ing  tutemenu  of  the  numbers  of  Indians  north  of  Pugets 
«)und  ;  via.  at  Milibank  Sound,  three  Iriben,  numl)ering*vo 
thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-slx.  At  HygAna  Harbor 
five  tribes  or  bands,  amountiog  to  two  thousand  ninely-two. 
At  Queen  Charlottes  Island,  eleven  tribes,  numbering  eight 
(housanii  six  hundred  persons.  About  Hanaga  and  Chat, 
ham  Straits,  there  are  nine  tribes,  conUining  dx  tliousand 
one  hundred  and  sixty  persons.  Making  the  whole  number 
of  inhabitants,  at  and  about  these  places,  between  the  470 
and  66°  of  north  latitude,  nineteen  thousand  thirjy^fght. 
At  Queen  Charlottes  Island  there  is  a  field  of  much  promise 
for  a  missionary  sUtion,  where  the  necessaries  of  life  could 
be  easily  obuined,  and  for  that  high  northern  laUtude,  the 
climate  is  very  mild. 

Their  summer  and  winter  residenoee  are  built  of  split 
plank,  similar  to  those  of  the  Chenooks.  It  is  said  they  are 
well  supplied  with  Ash,  fowl,  oil,  berries,  and  potatoes  of 
superior  quality  and  in  great  abundance  ;  and  wild  meat  is 
sometimes  obtained.  Their  dreae  is  much  the  same  as 
what  has  already  been  described.  Polygamy  prevails,  and 
also  slavery.  They  do  not  treat  their  slaves  with  as  much 
kindness  as  the  Indiaos  in  the  lower  country  of  the  Or^on 
Territory  treat  theirs.  When  they  kill  their  slaves,  the 
loss  of  property  is  the  only  thing  they  regard.  Sometimee 
when  one  chief  becomes  offended  with,  another,  Instead  of 
ohallenging  him  to  «  duel,  he  goes  home  and  kills  a  num. 
ber  of  daves,  and  challenges  the  other  to  kill  as  many. 
The  challenged  person,  if  he  can,  kills  as  many  or  more, 


t^mmmm 


k 


Sfl" 


TSS   «'KHS!t   aiTWI   IMBUJU. 


< 


ftod  ivitlfi#«  ih«  oh«U«nf«r  of  ihe  numb«r ;  and  thus  ikty 
piuoM><l  until  aa«  or  the  oth«r  gsim  th«  victory  ;  •ai  tit 
oiie  who  yi«lda  in  thia  mode  of  oomb«l  -mmmm^o  b«  »  g«n. 
ilcjnan.  "  Thm  point  of  honor"  with  thtm  »«rl»rou«f«nlry 
i»  &ud  higher  tJmn  in  our  Chriirtiftn  country,  for  h«r«  tho 
life  of  omt  aetiafit*  this  powerful  principle,  but  th*r*»,  blooil 
niuat  (V»w  profuaely  to  «juonoh  tho  noble  fire  of  high-minded 
revenge.  They  ere  mH  unfrequently  engaged  in  ware, 
which  are  often  very  bloody.  They  are  much  addicted  to 
gambling,  and  dancing  ;  and  it  it  aaid  they  eicel  in  aing. 
ing.  The  country  ia  mnuntainoua,  and  i»  generally  oovered 
wiUi  denae  foreaU,  oonaiating  mottly  of  Ar. 

On  and  about  MoKenzie  river  there  are  aix  tribe*  of  In- 
diana, making  a  population  of  about  four  thousand  two 
hundred  and  aeventy-rive.  The  climate  ia  very  cold  and 
unpleaaant ;  but  wiinviting  as  It  ia,  the  Hudaon  Bay  Com- 
pany have  found  men  who  are  willing  to  reaide  thi  ro  in  auf- 
itoient  numbers  to  make  tix  $ttabiiahmmU,  for  the  purpoeo 
of  obtaining  the  peltriea  which  the  Indiana  ooUeot.  Their 
principal  eaUbliahment,  which  k  Fort  Simpaon,  ia  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  river  and  is  a  place  of  much  resort  for 
the  Indians. 


March  26th.  Rode  down  onoo  more  to  the  lower  plains, 
as  they  are  called,  and  was  delighted  with  the  freshnoss  of 
the  wheat  fields,  which  are  beginning  to  wave  in  the  gentle 
broozod,  and  the  forest  trees  arc  beginning  to  show  their 
leaves,  and  tlie  planta  their  flowers.  The  sea  fowl,  which 
through  the  winter  oovered  these  fields,  are  gone  to  their 
summer  residences,  and  the  little  feathered  tribes  are  tuning 
their  notes,  so  full  of  melody. 


iiifliilwmhS 


;  Mid  thiM  tb«y 
victory ;  •n»l  'He 
>•»•  to  ba  ft  g«n. 

b«rb«roiMg«nlry 
itry,  for  hmn  thn 
i  but  th*r«,  blood 
rn  of  high-inkidad 
Rngag«d  in  wtr*, 
much  addictad  to 
ney  *>«cel  in  "ing. 
K(«n« rally  oov«r»d 

B  six  trib«Mi  of  In. 
bur  thouaand  two 
{■  v«ry  cold  and 
hludion  Bay  Ck>m- 
«iid«  thi<ro  in  auC- 
t,  for  the  purpo«o 
m  ooUeot.  Their 
Hmpson,  is  on  the 
f  much  reaort  for 


>  the  lower  platiw, 
h  the  freehnoae  of 
wave  in  the  gentle 
ling  to  »how  their 
le  sea  fowl,  whiob 
are  gone  to  their 
d  tribes  are  tuning 


MM 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1-^^   .if  <.^.^^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


■a  lU    1 2.2 


Itt 


2.0 


1.8 


U    111.6 


'V 


Riotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTE!!,N.V.  MStO 

(716)872-4503 


'^ 


•v^. 


*'>?'^. 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/iCIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


^^ 


THS  AdlTATID  QVnTfON. 

The  question,  to  whom  does  this  ooentry  belong,  hM 
been,  and  ia  becoming  ttili  more  »  question  of  genertl  in* 
tereat,  both  in  Great  Briuin  and  the  United  States.  The 
Hboriginal  population  claim  it  as  their  own,  and  sajr,  they 
merely  permit  white  men  to  reside  among  them.  Before 
the  first  discovery  of  the  noble  river,  which  in  itself  and 
its  branches  waters  almost  the  whole  territory,  these  na- 
tives had  undisputed  possession.  But  their  claim  is  labori- 
ously, extensively,  and  practically  denied ;  for  authorities, 
both  of  written  law,  and  the  opinion  of  living  judges  and 
expositors  of  law,  sanction  the  principle  that  "  unsettled 
habitation  is  not  true  and  legal  possession,  and  that  nations 
who  inhabit  fertile  eountries  and  disdain  or. refuse  to  culti- 
vate them,  deserve  to  be  extirpated."  It  is  made,  then,  a 
question  of  enquiry,  whose  claim  to  this  region  is  best  ee- 
tablished  ?  Our  government  claim  exdunve  dominion 
against  any  foreign  power;  of  all  the  country  lying  between 
the  42Bd  and  49th  degrees  of  north  latitude,  by  treaties  wfch 
nations  who  claim  possessions  contiguous,  and  who  have 
relinquithed  their  claims  to  the  country  included  in  tiw 
above  pwralleU  of  latitude,  except  Great  Britain  ;  by  the 
discovery  of  tha.|»inoipal  river  by  Capt.  Gray  of  the  riiip 
Columbia,  the  14th  of  May,  1799 ;  and  by  interior  explor. 
atioo.  Great  Britain  claims  the  Columbia  river  for  her 
"outhem  boundary,  by  right  of  discovery.  Capt.  lliongh* 
ton,  of  tfie  ship  Chatham,  having  ascended  the  river  widi 
two  boats,  as  fiir  as  where  Fort  Vancouver  is  now  wttgntoi, 
took  pcnessioa  of  the  river  and  country  in  the  name  of  Ms 
Britannic  Majesty,  on  the  31st  of  October,  1799.  Ci^. 
Broughton  was  associated  widi -Capt.  Vancouver  of  the  ship 
Discovery,  on  a  vojn^^  of  discovery  in  the  north  Pacific,  and 

aroattd  tfie-wwld.    The  poeseasion  was  taken  in  his  Bri- 

94 


m 


m^ 


h 


t» 


ns  ((iOicnoM> 


Uonio  MaJMty'i  ntiM  in  due  form.    A  friendly  old  chief, 
who  did  not  underaUnd  a  word  of  their  language,  nor  tbejr 
a  word  of  hia,  waa  invited  to  join  in  the  ceremony,  and  to 
drink  hia  Majeaty'a  health.  Captain  Broughton  aaya  the  ohief 
appeared  much  pleaaed  with  the  tranaaction.     But  it  may 
be  a  aubjeot  of  enquiry,  with  which  the  old  friendly  chief 
waa  beat  pleaaed,  with  the  rum  he  drank  bn  the  oooaaiaii, 
or  with  the  ceremony  which  waa  ao  full  of  import.    And 
farther,  did  the  chief,  by  parUking  of  hia  Majeaty'a  rum  and 
joining  in  the  ceremony,  cede  all  thia  country  to  be  the  io- 
M  jUe  property  of  a  foreign  nation  ?    SUU  Great  Britaia 
"  doea  not  aet  up  any  claim  of  excluaive  juriadiction  or  80V« 
eieignty  therein,  and  deniea  the  claim  of  the  United  Statee 
to  any  auoh  aovereign  juriadiction,"  but  prafeaaea  to  claim 
ibr  ita  aubjeota  the  right  of  joint  occupancy,  indefinitely  de- 
ferring the  aettlement  of  the  queition  of  exoliuive  dominioa. 
But  theae  intricate  queatioM^  ••  often  aaked,  I  leave  to 
learned  diplomatiata  to  decide,  after  oonfeaaing  that  I  am 
ftfr.     k)  to  diacovor  why  the  nationa  who  have,  from  time 
immemorial,  occupied  thia  country,  and  who,  like  other  oa- 
tkme,  have  their  territorial  llmita  tolerably  well   definad 
among  themaelvea,  abould  not  atill  poaaeas  tjie  domain  whioh . 
our  common  Creator  and  Benefactor  haa  kindly  given  them. 
It  ia  a  aubjeot  of  inoreaaing  regret  to  every  true  firiend  of 
humanity,  that  unleaa  the  rapaokma  and  aoquiaitive  i^rit, 
which  uigea  our  nation  to  appropriate  theee  w«etem  tenilo* 
riee,  diall  be  ivatrained  by  the  providence  of  God,  theae  Uh 
dian  natkma  wUl  be  oompelled  to  yield  their  landa,  Hm^ 
•jghte,  •ni  their  livee  to  the  meroileaa  invadera  of  their 
country,    b  there  auoh  rectitude  in  power,  and  aiioh  virtne 
m  .dvHiaatkMi,  a«  to  prove  that  the  bountiee  of  divine  p>«fi- 
denoe  weiw  sever  deaigped  to  be  permanendy  fsmtmi  kjT 


i'lhiifi-r-^'iiiiiitiiiatr^itVYW-'"'^-*''''^'"^^ 


^^^Mar! 


I«ndly  old  •hwf, 
iguage,  nor  tboy 
eramooy,  and  to 
tonMystbeohiof 
o.     But  it  may 
Id  friendly  ckief 
bn  the  oooMion, 
at  import.    And 
ajeaty's  rum  and 
itry  to  be  the  fo- 
il Great  Britain 
rifldiction  or  aov- 
faa  Uoitwl  State* 
iiofeMea  to  olaim 
r,  indefinitely  de- 
sUuive  dominka. 
«lud,  I  leave  to 
Miing  thai  I  am 
have,  from  time 
bo,  like  ottwr  na- 
>ly  well   definad 
i)ie  domain  whioh . 
indly  given  them. 
17  true  firiend  of 
aoquiiitive  i^t. 
n  W9et*m  tertito* 
ofCkid,thea»l0> 
their  lands,  tMv 
invaders  of  their 
r,  aad  such  virtoe 
M  of  divine  pravi* 
tntly  fimmm4M 


t 


■PMVII 


tmmmm 


■mamoMi.  'ffH 

the  defeflwleaa  and  untaught,  and  that  they  are  Ihevttably 
doomed  to  extinotion  by  the  hands  of  enlightened  and  pow. 
erful  men  f  The  history  of  the  past,  and  the  operaiion  of 
preaent  causes,  show  that  as  soon  as  ^he  Indians  shall  be 
induced  to  sell  and  cede  the  best  portions  of  their  country, 
there  being  no  farther  srest  to  which  they  can  be  removed, 
the  Indian  raob  must  expire,  and  in  vain  will  the  voice  of 
humanity  enquire,  what  has  becor^o  of  the  aborig inea  of  this 
country. 

The  time  has  arrived  when  I  expect  to  resume  the  worit 
of  further  exploration.  The  weeks  and  monthc  which  I 
have  spent  here  have  fled  rapidly  away,  while  I  have  been 
feebly  endeavoring  during  the  winter  to  benefit  the  peopla 
of  the  fort,  and  the  Indians ;  and  to  embrace  all  the  oppoN 
tunities  that  should  present,  to  oolleot  information  in  thON 
particulars  which  pertain  to  the  direct  object  of  my  tour. 
I  diall  wander  for  a  length  of  time,  yet  Aiture,  araoof  th* 
wild  scenes  of  nature,  which  have  so  gratified  and  delighted 
me  in  traversing  the  wildismoss  of  ferest  and  prairie}  but 
my  heart  lodes  back  to  a  variety  of  interealing  soenea  of 
civilised  life  and  cultivated  society  in  my  own  Atr  disttat 
land,  and  I  ardently  desire  to  see  the  wide  region  belbre  ma 
brought  under  the  same  beauty  and  oultlvation.  All  the 
social  aflfections  of  our  nature  strongly  desire  the  happin««, 
which  refined  and  Christian  society  and  its  ocooomitant 
blessings  can  alone  give.  A  feeling  of  solitarioesc,  and  of 
deeolatitm  comes  over  the  mind  as  jrou  stand  on  the  buiki 
of  the  noble  Columbia,  and  perhaps  for  weeks,  it  may  ba 
for  months,  no  whitened  sail  becomee  visible  to  the  gan  of 
your  watching  eye.  At  length  a  ship  enters  its  waters,  and 
the  Indians  hasten  fifty  miles  to  tell  you  that  the  white 
man's  gt«at  canoe,  with  its  three  upright  sticks,  ia  OD  its 


t 


•mmm 


"•<«i"«"wi'>«pir» 


tn 


waauun. 


wtjr,  to  briag  «  mv  tnffAf  of  bUak«ts,  be»di»  «ik3  tobuoo. 
TU  most  uolmportut  InoidMte  baooiiM  intoiMtiag  •vmatt, 
whtra  to  muol)  monotony  exiala. 

Monday.  Uth  April.  Having  bmuU  •mnfanMnii  to 
Imvo  thi«  pUoo  on  the  14(h,  I  oallod  upon  the  oUof  ekj^ 
fcr  my  UU.  Ha  Mid  tlM  Company  felt  a  plaaaura  in  gra- 
tuitoiuly  ooutbning  all  tbay  have  done,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  object  in  whioh  I  am  engaged,  n  ji««tioe  to  my  own 
Ibelinga,  and  in  gratitude  to  the  b(»iorable  Company,  I 
would  bear  teetiroony  to  their  uniform  politeneia  and  gene- 
roeity ;  and  while  I  do  thia,  I  would  expreee  my  anxiaty 
for  their  aalvation,  and  that  they  may  be  rewarded  in  apir. 
itual  WeeBing*.  In  addition  to  the  civilitiee  I  had  leoeived 
aa  a  gueet,  I  had  drawn  upon  their  elore  for  olothing,  for 
goods  to  pay  my  Indiana,  whom  I  had  employed  to  ooovey 
ma  in  oanoe«  in  my  variouii  jouneyingn,  hundreds  of  milea ; 
to  pay  my  guides  and  interpreters;  and  upon  their  pravis. 
ion  store  for  the  support  of  these  men  while  in  my  eroplof . 


f 


mmmmtmrn-mmgrnm 


)•<!■»  uu]  tobacco. 
ntorMting  •vmUs, 


DBPAtTvu  wtL  m  vrm  covimiT.  tTf. 


•rnngsiiMDti  to 
I  the  ohkf  oWk 
i  plaMura  in  gm- 
lor  the  boMfit  of 
(Mioo  to  my  own 
»b!e  CompMiy,  I 
itooen  «nd  geno' 
>i«M  my  aiuioty 
"•warded  In  sitir. 
la  I  had  received 
for  clothing,  for 
ployed  to  convey 
iindredeofmilea; 
pen  their  previa. 
la  in  my  emplof . 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

I>«rart«n  for  Um  oppw  aouatrj— AiMriMB  hiiDtMr»->f«oIog7  at  tba 
CuoadM— Indiko  lionMl]r-..«N»p«  in  •  dangerous  gal*— tit*  Falli 
a  fkvorable  looatUm  for  a  aiaiionkry  aUUon— under  aynpathy-. 
(kmW»d  Indlant~arriral  at  Walla  Walla— inleiwUnf  meetinf  of 
iBdiawu-opportanily  to  giva  tbwa  raNgloHa  '-Tmnrtltm  a  walk— 
Um  BUtrltloaa  qnalit/  of  piairia  gnue. 

APBit  14th.  Having  exchanged  ihrewella  with  the  gen. 
tiemen  of  the  Ibrt,  whoae  kindneas  I  thai!  ever  remember,  I 
took  paasage  in  a  canoe  of  an  Indian  chief  belonging  to  the 
La  Dallea.  Our  company  consinted  of  the  chief  and  Ma 
dai^hter,  another  Indian  who  took  the  bow,  a  half-blood 
named  Baptiate  who  took  the  atem,  and  two  white  men, 
who,  with  the  chief,  helped  to  propel  the  canoe,  making 
seven  peiaona.  Theae,  with  the  baggage  of  eevsral  hun- 
dred  weight,  loaded  the  frail  craft  so  heavily,  that  its  aidea 
were  wily  about  Mven  inches  above  water.  This,  upon  a 
river^averaging  about  a  mile  in  width,  with  many  rapids, 
and  anbjeqt  to  winds,  was  not  a  pleaaanrundArtaking.  But 
at  thia  aeason  of  the  year,  when  tKe  Ihdiina  are  about  to 
commence  Ashing,  another  caitoe  could  not  bfe  obtained. 

We  proceeded  up  the  river  abbut  tweWe  miltfa,  to  what 
are  caW«d  tRb  li^wr  plaina  on  thb  north*  sid^  of  the  river, 
and  encamped.  This  is  a  rich  aud  beautifVil  prairie  of  aonie 
raites  id  cifcumibrenoe,  waiFkt  this  early  part  Of  the  apriog 
waa  covered  with  a  coat  of  flreah  green  grass  Ave  or  six 
inches  high.    A  little  back'  from  the  river,  there  b  a  beau. 

84* 


fU 


'f. 


liful  lake,  the  TMort  vi  wtter  ftmt,  whleh  ars  Mm  exhttrft' 
ing  their  uinuHM  plammge;  and  IntberaMr  nr*  lorMiaof 
flr,  whitiwr  the  deer,  which  crop  the  grsM  of  the  pimiiie,  fleet 
when  they  eee  men  Moend  the  rirer'e  beak.  A  getheriag 
•torm  rendered  the  night  dark,  oold,  and  dreary  ;  fcr  ae  yet 
no  fHendly  habiutiona  are  NMed  opoa  theae  fertil*  flelde 
for  the  reeort  and  oomfort  of  man. 

The  rahi  oontinutng  with  lome  wind,  w*  did  noc  d«eanijp 
on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  until  a  late  Iwur';  after  whiofi 
we  paaaed  up  into  the  mountainoua  part  of  the  country  be- 
low the  Ceeoaden,  and  enoamped  near  the  high  Pillar  rook 
which  I  have  mentioned.  Bdon  after  leaTing  our  onoamp< 
meat  this  momiog,  we  met  Captain  W.  with  a  email  oom- 
pany  of  men  in  two  oanoea  iaahed  together,  on  their  way  to 
Port  William  upon  Wtpratoo  Island.  They  were  wet  with 
the  rain  of  the  morning ;  and  their  meagre  oountananoee 
and  tattered  garmente  did  not  epeak  much  in  favor  of  tbe 
happineea  of  mountain  life,  or  indicate  that  they  had  found' 
the  hunter's  elysium.  But  they  were  in  good  epirita  and 
paaeed  merrily  on  their  way. 

The  baealtic  rooka  which  wall  up  the  ahorea,  in  eome 
plaoea  |wo  and  three  hundred  fbet  perpendloular,  and  in  this 
plaoe  for  milee,  do  not  loae  in  intereet  by  review.  For  more 
than  half  a  mile  the  oolumnar  basalt  presented  the  regular 
pentagons.  Niear  tliese,  where  the  shore  was  inaooesaJUe. 
we  found  a  deer  almoat  exhausted  with  swiinning  in  the 
oold  water.  Its  helpless  oonditioa  and  its  mild,  large  black 
eye,  excited  by  fear,  pleaded  for  the  exercise  of  huiaaaity ; 
but  our  men,  instead  of  rendering  it  that  assislanoe  which  it 
needed,  shot  it,  and  stained  the  pure  water  of  the  river 
whh  its  blood.  I  oould  not  help  feeling  a  sympathy  for  thte 
poor,  beautlAil  animal. 


i 


mm 


^tttiti^jjiiii^mMimmk 


MliHiiiikiiuriMMiiiiiMMiwiH^^ 


MliM«p> 


■ni" 


Mur  nr*  lorMtt  of 
rUiepimirl*,  Ami 
k.  A  g»Ui«riaf 
Mry ;  httuyt 


I  did  oof  d«Mnip 
luri  after  whtoh 

the  country  to- 
high  Pillar  raok 
ing  our  onoamp' 
th  a  Mnall  oom- 
,  on  their  way  to 
»y  were  wet  with 
're  oountenancee 
b  in  favor  of  the 

they  had  fouod 
good  epirite  and 

■borea,  in  eome 
Hilar,  and  in  thie 
iew.  Fornove 
otedthe  regular 
raa  inaoooMibie, 
wimning  in  the 
mild,  large  Uaok 
■eof  humanity; 
lielanoe  which  it 
kter  of  ths  riirer 
ympathy  Ibr  this 


mMAif  aoHMnr. 

While  the  men,  on  the  morning  of  the  16tb,  were  eog^ied 
in  iakii^  the  oanoe  up  the  rapida  and  the  Caeoad*!,  I  walked 
five  roilee,  ■omotimee  along  the  ehore  of  the  river,  and  eome. 
timee  olimUng  over  pr«oipioee ;  and  ao  laborioue  waa  the 
uek  to  get  the  oanoe  above  all  the  rapida  and  fblli,  that  it 
oeoupied  moat  of  the  day,  giving  me  time  t>r  oxamining  th* 
aoenery  around.  Almoat  every  variety  of  volcanic  pro- 
(luoUon  waa  eeen,  but  baaalt  and  amygdaloid  praduminatad. 
Large  quantitiea  of  pet/ifiod  wood  were  etiattefed  along  the 
shorea,  eome  of  whioH  preaerved  ita  natural  appearanoe ; 
but  the  large  blooka,  when  broken,  preeented  the  appear, 
anoe  of  mineral  ooal.  The  aoenery  around  la  grand  ;  yet 
■ueh  waa  Ibe  miny  atate  of  the  atmoephere  about  the  tope 
of  the  mountaina,  whioh  were  at  this  time  ooverod  with  anow, 
and  the  ohillnoaa  aoooropanying,  that  the  enjoyment  was 
iMa  than  it  would  have  been  under  other  oiroumatanoee. 
After  having  flniahed  the  portage  by  the  Caeoadea,  wa 
launohed  out  upon  the  gentle  current  above,  and  proceeding 
up  the  river  two  milea,  encamped  upon  the  north  aide. 
Several  Indiana  came  to  our  encampment  and  manifeated  a 
kind  and  aoeiable  diapoaition.  They  told  ua  that  Captain 
W.  the  day  before,  in  eardtUimg  hia  oanoee  down  th*  Caa* 
oadaa,  had  loat  one,  and  with  it  baggage,  of  whioh  they  had 
flmnd  eero*  artielea,  whioh  they  would  deliver  to  him  when  ha 
dxNild-agaicpaaathiaway.  The  Indiana  are  coming  in  Aom 
their  winter  ratieata,  and  are  engaged  in  oatohing  eturgaoo. 

Tha  ITth  being  th*  Sabbath,  we  did  not  remove.  It  waa 
a  rainy  day,  and  in  the  Ibranoon  the  rain  oam*  down  in 
torrent%  whioh  ia  oommon  about  thoee  mountaina  through 
the  raiuy  aaMon  ^the  year.  Wa  were  not  able  to  mak*  a 
Are  tat  preparing  food,  until  after  twalve  o'oloek,  when  the 
storm  began  to  abnl*.  ,>« vn,  „ 


wniaiM 


mm 


mmSm 


Om  NofMhy  th«  WA«lh«r  wm  mora  pl««Mnt,  «iHi  w»  imuIa 
very  good  prngroM  up  th«  rivcir,  llimugh  a  country  of  t*!- 
v«r«ifl«d.M«n«ry.  Though  I«mm' mounuinotM  than  atMul 
llieCMoadM,  yet  hera  wera  mountalna  of  inte raiting  fcrma  ; 
ona  waa  almoat  a  perfnot  oone,  a  thouMnd  feet  high,  rialng 
at  an  angle  of  4A  deKreea,  beautifully  tmooth  and  ooverad 
with  graai.  We  paMwd,  a  few  mile*  above  this  a  bluff 
praaenting  a  perpendicular  Mmioirole,  with  fiaauraa  rag< 
aiarly  radiating  f\tom  the  centra  of  the  dianteter.  In  dif- 
ferent plaoea  thera  were  red  hillii  of  the  color  of  well-burnt 
briok.  We  encamped  on  the  north  ■Ida  of  the  rirer,  upon 
a  pleaaant  apot  just  above  a  small  Indian  village,  where  wa 
found  a  good  supply  of  dry  wood;  which  adclAd'to  our  oooi' 
fort  and  convenience. 

A  wind  which  blew  very  fVesh  through  the  night,  abated 

00  tha  morning  of  the  19th,  and  we  prooeaded'  on  onr  way 
with  a  gantle  breeze,  before  which  w%  spread  a*  ■>il  mada 
of  a  blanket.  The  wiij  oontinued  to  Incream  until  th« 
middle  of  the  day,  wMoh  rendered  navigatioti  rather  danger- 
ooa.  We  oame  to  a  large  bend  in  the  river,  and  to  save  the 
dlatanoa  of  ooaat'ng  around,  the  men  who  rowed  wished  to 
paaa  over  to  iha  aoutk  side  of  the  river,  which  was  hera 
more  than  a  nrila  wtde.  llik  seemed' a  dingereus  eiperi- 
mant,  beoatiee  the  wind  and^wafes  were  too  high  for  our 
deep-ladan  eitnoa ;  but  as'they  were  anxtoua  to  sare  labor, 

1  did  not  penlst  to  ray  objaetioaa.  We  had  not  pMaed 
m(»«  than  ha>f  way  aoroM,  before  die  inoreaalng  wind  raised 
wavea  whldl  rolled  and  broke  three  times  aa  hi|^  as  our 
caooa,  and  threatened  to  overwhelm  us.  At  length  the  men 
ware  not  alria  to  keep  the  eanoe  headed  aoroaatha  wavea, 
and  it  turned  stdewaya  to  them.  It  seemed  that  nothing 
short  of  a  mireoulous  providence  oouM  save  us.    But  t^ 


illMHIi 


mfmmmm^ 


«mmm 


itoiwuiii 


it,  ■nd  w  miA* 
country  of  <•!- 
tnu  than  atMul 
prMtIng  (brmi ; 
'est  high,  ridng 
th  «nd  covered 
v«  this  •  bluff 
h  flMuree  r«g< 
meter.  In  dif> 
ir  of  well-burnt 
the  Hver,  upon 
l«ge,  where  we 
ted 'to  our  oooi< 

'm  night,  abated 
ed'on  our  way 
kd  a  Mil  made 
reaiie  until  tha 
rather  danger, 
and  to  eave  the 
Dwed  wiahed  to 
'hloh  wa«  here 
igeroua  experi< 
>  high  fbr  our 
itoaava  labor, 
lad  not  paaaed 
Ing  wind  raiaed 
aa  hi|^  aa  our 
length  the  mea 
roaatha  wavaij;* 
d  that  nothli^i 
^e  ua.    But  by 


mu«)i  aserUoii  and  earn  abMeaMol  of  tiM  wind,  w  again 
got  the  oanoe  upon  our  oouraa,  and  obliquely  aoivaa  the 
wa»ee,  and  eafcly  arrived  at  the  aouih  ehora.      But  our 
greateat  danger  waa  yet  before  ua.     Aftar  ooaaUng  a  Ibw 
miles  along  the  aouth  ahora,  we  oanM  to  a  ponxmtory  call, 
od  Cape  Horn,  a  name  given  it  on  aooount  of  thn  dangora 
of  paaaiag.     It  ia  of  voloaaio  ferraation,  riaing.  ai  I  albr. 
warda  found  by  nieaaurenMnt,  two  hundred  ieet  pirpendie. 
ular  upon  the  wator'e  edge,  extending  about  a  mile  in  length, 
and  the  lower  part  projeoting  aeveral  hundred  feet  into  the 
rivar.    The  wind  bad  ao  iar  luHed,  that  we  did  not  appra. 
hand  any  danger  in  paaaing  it,  but  when  we  had  doubled 
the  Cape,  the  wind  drew  around  and  inoreaaed  lo  a  gala. 
The  foaming,  brealiing  wavea  ran  high,  and  we  oould  not 
return  againat  the  wind,  and  to  go  forwaid  againat  the  oar. 
rent  waa  to  add  to  the  danger  of  being  filled,  or  daaik.d 
againal  ahorolaaa  rooka.    Sooh  waa  the  ktn»  of  the  wind, 
and  auoh  the  eflbita  of  the  man  to  keep  the  oaaoa  aoraaa  the 
wavea  and  away  fiom  the  rooka,  that  in  the  eame  inataalof 
tima,  tha  bowman  aad  ataaiaman  both  broke  thair  paddlaa, 
and  tha  aail  waa  torn  away  from  tha  Uft  fhrtaninff,  vd 
whirled  ovar  to  tlM  right;  eida  of  tha  oaMa.    It  aaar^ 
that  all  hope  waa  goaa.    Tbaia  ware  only  tkiaa  paddlaa  m. 
niaining.  two  of  wUah  waia  inunadiataly  put  tt  iaia  Iha 
hBoda  of  tha  Haanaiaa  and  hpwoiaa.    U  waa  iaipaoiiUa  la 
return,  and  lo  make  pragraaa  againat  Am  oamat  with  oaly 
•uoh  nmm,  appaaiod  aqaally  ianpnotioaUa.     A  watory 
grave  aaeoiad  inavitabto ;  but  by  tha  prataotiiy  BMMy  of 
God,  wliaa  tbo  wavaa  hiolw,  U  waa  juH  without  tha  oaaoe. 
It  waa  aaoeanry  to  our  aafety  la  bo  oeilaolad  aad  laarla«. 
ud  wa  olaand  tha  aaU,  and  gave  ordara  aa  thougkao  daa. 
g«r  waa  aaar.     CoMrary  to  oar  higbeat  axpectatioQa,  we 


mm 


!■ 


I 


WW 


lo  imM  htmiwmy  up  Um  river,  ■■■iwwi  proiMbijr 

^  OM  of  Ikow  larff*  ■ddlM,  wMob  •faouml  to  Uiia  rif«^ 

Witil  w«  OKMM  to  •  b«y  with  •  mndy  ahor*.  wIwm  w«  mh- 

\y  moorvd  our  fmil  b«rqii«>,  and  wftiled  until  Um  wUtim  m4 

«M4li«r  bwwnM  more  favorablA. 

After  itM  wind  hftd  witmiwlMl  alMUad,  Imliaiw  otm*  lo*M 
Awn  tb«  oppotitfl  ■horv,  of  whom  w«  bought' paddlM,  and 
b«h^  t^in  flquippcd  for  our  voyagn,  wo  prooMdwl  up  ths 
rivar  to  th«  L«  DsIIm,  and  m  Arr  through  them  m  wa  oould 
wfely  go.  Hmnr  wn  landwl  and  enoampeU  on  th«  nortfi 
ilKMW,  and  a  number  of  Imllana  noon  oarn*  to  ua,  whom  w« 
•agagad  tc  carry  ua  with  horwa,  to  thfl  na>igabla  water 
above  the  Falla.  Near  thie  'vaa  a  very  large  «ddy,  where, 
two  yeara  previoualy,  nine  men  were  drowned.  Their 
bateau  wae  drawn  into  it  and  oapaiaad,  and  only  one  man 
iHOapad,  wbioh  he  efieoted  by  clinging  to  a  bag  oontaining 
•ome  empty  kege.  He  wm  carried  a  few  milea  down  tiM 
river,  and  tl;an  takaa  up  by  UkUaim  who  wom  paaiag  ia  • 


Tha  80th  waa  oooupiad  In  p«aaing  %]m  La  Dallea  and  tlie 
Palla,  above  which  we  enoamped.  Thie  place  aflbrda  a  h- 
vomUe  looa(ion,for  miaalonariea.  The  Indiaaa  naort  hare 
la  larga  ntimbara  for  tiahing,  and  ratnain  uaiially  tkroof  h 
tka  atmiiner,  and  aomu  of  them  through  dia  ymt.  Am  ia- 
tarttomaa  would  ba  alwayo  opao  witk  aumunding  tiUiaa, 
•■d  fc(  ilitiaa  would  be  at  hand  both  to  dianmiiMto  IIm 
tratha  of  th«  gottptl,  and  to  obtaia  tha  maaaa  of  oaaifbflaU* 
■abaiatanoa. 

Aa  aoon  aa  we  war*  aaoampad,  the  ladiaiUH  who  are  hare 
ia  graat  oumbeta  preparing  for  Aahing,  oamo  arotaid  tai  and 
thair  flrat  enquiry  waa  Ibtfipi,  (tobaooo.)  I  am  mueh  M*- 
guated  widi  thia  aoxioua  |riant,  aad  am  reaolvadi  aa  laaKtr 


■If-MM 


"MMMMia 


^mm 


uni  ia  Uila  rif«r, 
•,  wImm  wc  mIn 
lUi  Um  wtadi  and 

HUatwokiiM  lo*tn 
ighl'paddiM,  •nd 
proo««d«d  up  Um 
them  M  w  oould 
pcd  on  Um  norUi 

•  to  iM,  whom  w 
iwtigabU  water 

iiK*  «ddy,  wh«f«, 
Irownad.  Tbdr 
lad  only  oim  iimii 

•  bag  oonMining 
(T  milM  down  Um 

U  DikllM  and  Um 
pl«o«  tflbrds  »  fc- 
imUmm  NMMt  htn 
I  usually  tkroogh 
Jm  yMr.  A»  in- 
irraunding  trite*, 
9  dl— iwiiMf  Um 
UMofoMafbfteM* 

lUM,  who  are  here 
me  arotaid  ua  and 
I  I  am  mueh  dU- 
Moivvdi  M  iBlRir 


niiiMlifal 


9JkU.  AT  AH  INMAM   UW«|. 

w  oorndder  it  neenwary  to  4onoillata  th«  ladiane  by 
klBff  the  Mmtdiy  pipe.  If  an  Indian  ia  autlbriNK  with  hun- 
ger and  nak«MlnMa,  hia  Anrt  nM|ueal  ia  (or  tobaooo.  A*  w« 
had  parUNl  wiUt  the  Imliene  who  omnm  with  ua  fWwi  Port 
Vananuver.  we  hero  angagml  two  othora  to  aaaiat  ua  aa  Air 
aa  Welle  Welle. 

Ob  the  mat,  we  took  a  bateau  which  wo  Ibund  hare,  and 
progroaeed  alowly  up  the  rivor  againM  tho  current  and  (V». 
<|ii«nt  rapida.  On  the  morning  of  the  UHd,  whiln  anoamped, 
and  the  tma  were  making  pr«|>eralion  for  break faat,  I  ram- 
bled into  a  litrie  viHage  in  the  noighborhocl,  and  celled  at 
a  ledge,  whoee  inmatea  oonajated  of  an  agMl  woman,  • 
youngOT  one,  aad  Ibur  little  girla.  I  addreaaed  Uiem  in  Um 
Cheaook  language,  but  they  did  not  underatand  me.  Being 
tolerably  (kmiliar  wiUi  the  language  of  aigns,  1  enquired 
whoa*  were  Uioee  children.  The  younger  woman  aignifled 
that  three  of  UMra  were  hers,  but  Um  eldeat  waa  aa  orplian, 
whom  ahe  had  adopted  for  her  own ;  and  in  the  moot  pa. 
UmUo  manner  she  proeeeded  to  relate  her  history,  but  litU* 
of  which  waa  iMelliglbl«.  The  aged  matron  sluing  oa  Um 
grouMd  of  her  movable  lodge,  wiUi  her  head  raolining  upon 
her  haad,  oooasionally  introduced  a  ihw  sentences  to  aid 
the  nirrallon  {  and  so  sad  and  afleoUng  was  the  whole  ac 
omt  and  sound  of  UMir  voices,  that  I  freely  sympaUiiaad 
whh  UMm,  and  nodded  my  assmt  to  all  UMy  said.  I  la. 
gretted  Um  neoeeeity  which  compelled  me  to  leave  than 
wiUwQt  being  able  to  point  UMm  to  Him,  who  is  touohod 
wiUi  Um  ftalbiga  of  our  inflrmiUea,  and  who  binda  up  the 
brr\ea  in^  heart.  I  thought,  as  I  walked  slowly  back  to  my 
breakfiMt,  how  lltUe  of  Um  savage  character  waa  exUbHad 
by  UM8a  feawlea,  and  on  the  ocatrary,  how  Umoo  amiabia 
aeaaiUlitiia  would  have  done  honor  to  any  civilised  sooiety. 


M 


^sm* 


mmmmmmmmmmimKtmmmm'w 


Our  •noampmeiit  on  the  SMth,  wm  on  Um  toudk  tide  of 
the  river,  at  •  pUo«  of  great  roAort  for  Um  fndiajt,  but  they 
had  not  ooine  in  frcm  their  winter  retreat.  Tlwre  were 
nmuy  oanoea  drawn  up  at  a  ehort  dietanoe  from  the  ahore, 
and  left  without  any  i^iipreheniiona  of  their  Lping  atolen, 
showing  the  oonfidenoe  thu  Indians  have  in  each  other's 
honebty  They  do  not  naei  guards  nor  bolts  and  bars, 
and  prisons. 

To  seoure  ou^-selves  fhxA  a  strong,  oold  w  W,  we  selected 
a  place  denmly  covered  with  wild  broom  com  cf  laat  ]rear'j 
growth  yut  stauding^  bad  in  the  rear  of  willows  Mr>\'^'here 
sk'rted  the  shore  of  the  river.  Twc  Indians  came  to  our 
enoampment,  who  were  as  miserable  objeoti  as  I  have  seen. 
They  were  not  mon.  than  half  oovered  with  tattared  Mm 
0f  nUibits  patpbed  together ;  and  were  eviaoiated  wiA  ata^'- 
vatkm.  To  relieve  the  eufl^rings  of  euph  olj^ots  of  pHy, 
the  traveler  noede  to  carry  with  him  a  sloi«  of  clothing  aad 
pioviakna.  It  is  di«treasiag  to  see  them,  withotH  hm\i>t§ 
thoaieaiisoffifmiehingtbeniaabalaiitlttielikf.   . 

Ob  the  9Mk,  wo  made  skm  proigrBss  afoinsi  A«'«ti«iig 
Oiurent  with  our  poorly  mnnned  bateau,  and  failing  of  anv 
viBg  It.  Walla  Waila  as  we  had  hoptAt  eneamped  noder 
tlM  higb  baeSkTtio  rooka.  where  we  fcuod  a  nnaU  epotof  eott 
fbn^idiing  some  wood.  The  next  iBtfmiB$r  wo  air'ved  «t 
the  t>rt,  where  I  ir>et  at  the  laodiBg  $^  mat^t  of  M^tXti 
Imiiana  waiting  loy  arrival.  I  felt  mtto|i  ^  jAttttt  im 
teeing  them,  and  in  witneonnf;  '.heir  token*  o!  jcuob.  Jt 
^»n  like  meeting  old  frifloda ;  a>d  there  appease^  to  bo  >«• 
muoh  uniUgned  pleosur*  in  tha  reooption  thay  g»vc  om^ 
tbat  it  in^od  Uw  bope»*hat  the  diaponkfoatlwy  eoqpiWi' 
to  loam  the  way  of  solvate  ie  based  an  a  fouBdodoft  «UM 
frnMUpent  tiiaoi  jiovelty .    I  had  told  a  Iwrdof  tbo O^^um 


iMiiHiHMieaMMii 


■iiliii 


iiHi 


iiWli 


t 


mmm^ 


I  Um  toudk  aid*  of 
I  iuHmM,  but  tlMy 
Mkt.  Tbero  wen 
m  from  the  ahore, 
beir  Lping  Mok>n, 
e  in  Mush  other's 
•r  bolto  and  ten, 

w\nd,  we  wleeltNl 
com  cf  iMt  year'j 
iUcvs  Mr>\'<qh'lMm 
lian»  came  to  our 
rti  u  I  have  «ee»* 
vitli  tatlsrad  nkklft 
iKoiatad  wiA  etasw 
h  oljsoto  of  pHif » 
>i«ofolotIii«gMi$ 
a,  without  havMit 
ieU*r 

•fAinti  A«'«ti«ng 
ind  fidllng  rf  »n»> 
,  eaoMnped  uodiir 
tnnaUtiMtofMtt 
iB$r  wo  •ir'vod  «t 
chexof  ^  »YrJr»i 
leh  '  iAtifio  im 
as  or  jckM.  b 
sppsuc^  to  W  M 
ion  thay  g»v:  om^ 

•  foUBdodOftMUW 

Mir4of  thtGi^^iiN 


rvmunurr  or  FWMinB. 

Indisos,  on  my  wbjr  down  ths  rivor  last  October,  that  I  would 
meet  them  here  in  the  spring,  and  inforro  them  about  God 
and  tlM  way  io  worship  hfan.  Many  bf  them  were  here, 
ready  to  attend  to  the  fulfilment  of  my  promise,  and  un. 
dot-btedly  my  arrival  at  tha  appointed  time,  confirmed  their 
confidence. 

Ar  the  wnukm  is  yet  eariy,  I  judged  it  expedient  to  oon- 
tinue  here  a  week  or  two,  and  improve  such  opportunitiee 
fts  might  ofier  hr  instruotiqg  the  Indians  residing  near  this 
plt;oe,  and  those  who  might  come  fh>m  more  iwnote  |daees ; 
making  the  best  use  of  such  fiwilities  as  can  be  obtained, 
without  waiUiig  for  the  thorough  knowledge  of  their  Ian. 
guage,  which  the  inrudenee  of  some  persons  would  ooiMider 
indispensable  to  the  commenoement  of  teaohing  them  the 
wf  y  of  eternal  life.  Their  anxioas  onriosity  to  know  whtt 
th«  i»l%M>n  of  the  Bible  ia,  cannot  be  kept  awaka  while  its 
gmtUkwIkxa  ie  postponed.  The  danger  that  delay  wttl  ra. 
3^t  in  iadiftienoe  or  disgust,  is  as  graat  as  tkrt  an  OM^y 
attempt  to  fanpert  instruotMn  may  be  oonnetted  with  imper* 

Oariag^mjr  c«Ki«««£!iaa  in  this  place,  I  proadwd  m  the 
Sabbath  moiukf  l»  Uie  white  people  bddll^|ing  to  the  bn, 
aiMiin.the  Mem^on  to  the  Indians  of  the  Glayuse»  W^ 
WftUa,  and  Ne«  Perai  tribei.  They  always  pnra  good  a»t 
teiMicKfimdeovietppenred  to  be  much  interested.  Aaii^ 
staipiD  f4  oppoaitktt  to  the  truths  of  the  gospel  oMsumed 
hiiet  pfQViilg  tlM  truth  of  the  scriptures,  that  the  Savior 
ilfsl  $Mr  Up.  %11  and  rising  of  those  who  hear.  A  ddef 
of  ttM(  Psiypsc,  who  eereml  times  came  to  hear,  didihed 
what  ir«a«ni|d  about »  plurality  i^  wive»«.  He  said  he  wcuM 
not  pMt  with  kayvf  his;  for  ho  had  allrays  lived  in  sin. 


# 


VPMPI 


wf  mn 


tea 


A  WAu--a«jun>  scauony. 


for  him,  now  he  wm  gwtdng  old,  to  refMot  and  he  «i?ed ; 
•nd  M  he  muat  go  to  that  place,  he  would  go  in  all  bla  ain^ 
and  would  not  alter  hie  life.  ThoM  who  are  ihodliar  with 
the  rarious  methods  to  which  ainneri  reaort,  to  avoid  the 
oonriotioos  of  truth  antl  oooaoience,  may  aee  in  hia  deep  ha- 
tred to  holine«^  that  the  operation  of  sin  ia  the  aane  in 
erery  unaanctified  heart.  Thia  ia  the  only  inatanoe  of  open 
opppaition,  that  I  wkneaaed  among  the  Indiana;  nor  doea 
it  diaraoterice  the  Cayuae  tribe.  They  very  muoh  leaeni' 
bio  the  Nex  Perc^  in  their  peaceable  d^)oaition,  and  deaire 
to  be  initructed,  and  preaent  in  oonneotion  with  the  Walla 
Wallaa,  a  proniaing  field  of  miaaionary  labor. 

May  8d.  I  walked  doi^  to  the  paaaage  of  the  Colanw 
Ma  through  tile  baaaltio  mountain,  two  milea  below  the  fort, 
«>  take  a  more  particular  view  of  the  aoenery,  than  cut  k» 
obtafiied  in  a  haaty  paaaage  on  the  ifver.  laaoeodedtha 
mountaiii,  Arom  the  top  of  which  I  had  a  fine  praaped  of  tha 
ooontry  aiooDd,  opeohig  in  every  direotioB  aa  for  aa  tha  «!• 
could  reach.  All  parts  were  coveiud  with  tha  ftuab  gfaaa 
of  apring  vegetation.  Vaiy  few  foreals  www  to  ba  aMn  in 
any  direction,  excepting  upon  tha  Blue  llbuataiaa  at  tha 
aouth,  and  these,  inatend  of  the  fresh  hu«a  piesanlad  by  h^ 
arts  at  this  seaaon,  wwrs  softened  iigr  ^m  distance  ta  a  faaif^ 
Uua.  Bveoatthi8diatenoe,dMperpatnalaewacrMout 
Haod,  could  be  diatingniahad  at  the  west ;  aad  at  the  aaltik!>!^ 
veat  Mount  Aainiw  noar  Pugeta  Sound ;  and  at  tha  Mii# 
and  tha  eairt  vaiioua  parts  <tf  soattaied  mount»iM.  Afliik 
Bonae  time  cn^tloyed  in  looking  around  upon  1k»  vast  cat.. 

pans^  I  appmaobad  the  patpandioalar  waUa,  Wtwaea  iHiioh 

the  Oolumbia  deeoend^  which  ars  about  three  bimdrad  fon 

^  U^  as  I  aaocrtafaied  by  tha  number  of  aeoondaoeiMipM  Itt 

the  deaoett  of  laiga  atODss,  projeotad  ftuin  tb)  blink  of  tka 


mmmmtimmmmmmmmmmtmm 


mff 


wm^ 


**M| 


^mmm 


It  and  te  w?ad ; 
go  in  all  hia  aiiit^ 
are  Auailiar  wkh 
lort,  to  avoid  the 
ee  in  hia  daap  ha- 
a  i«  the  aame  in 
jrimtanoeofopen 
iidiana;  nordoea 
ery  muoh  reaem* 
option,  and  deain 
D  with  the  Walla 
kbor. 

ge  of  the  Colam. 
lee  below  the  fan, 
lery,  than  can  be 
I  aaoended  the 
nepraqweloftha 
taaflvaetheefit 
h  the  fteah-gvean 
«mto  baaiMiia 
Mountaiu  at  the 
pneMiied  fajr  Jbr. 
iHuee  te  •  haqp 
ImnrsofMout 
■adattfaeaei^ 
•ad  at  the  aoiA^ 
ounttine.  AAar 
ipon  te  van  es. 
%be^eeaiHbh)h 
uTM  hmdied  ft«t 
)OBdeoemi|M  in 
I  the  brink  of  the 


•     nAiiia 

preoipioe,  which  I  dittinotly  heard  when  they  struok  upon  the 
shore  below.  I  found  a  great  variety  of  aooria  and  lava, 
the  latter  varying  muoh  in  color  and  deneity,  aome  of  it  mxC 
ficiently  porous  and  light  to  awim  upon  water.  Two  thirda 
of  the  way  down  thiadeep  channel,  are  two  high  eminencea 
called  the  Pillars,  to  which,  by  a  oirouitoua  route,  I  dc 
soended.  They  atand  upon  conical  baaei^  eighty  or  a  hun. 
dred  ifeet  high  above  the  river;  aad  a&ove  these  basea  rise 
nearly  a  hundred  feet  perpendicular.  They  are  indeed  re- 
markable ;  but  there  are  so  many  singular  formationa  in 
thie  voloanio  country,  that  ourioaities  become  common.  I 
returned,  though  muoh  fttigued  with  my  long  walk  over 
prairiee,  preoipksea,  and  mountaina,  yet  gratified  with  the 
examinatkn  of  the  worka  of  nature. 

My  horaea  and  mule,  which  I  had  left  with  the  Nex  Pezo6 
Indian^  were  kept  hi  their  country,  oae  hundred  aad  thirty 
mike  eaat  of  tiiia  place,  and  were  in  April  brau^  Into  thie 
Mighborfaood.  To^lay,  May  5th,  they  were  caught  andt 
brought  to  the  fort.  I  waa  aoipriaed  to  find  them  in  fine 
oidwr,  with  liew  ooat%  and  In  high  apirita.  They  bad  nm 
out  CD  the  funMea  without  any  dtoher  fh^  the  atonM,  aai 
widi  BO  food,  eaoaft  what  the  ramaiM  of  the  prevtaia  Mim. 
mer'8growihaSiided,tQgether  with  the  earlygraaaofaiiring. 
Who  wooU  have  Mppoaed*  oonaideriiig  their  worn  down 
oooditkairvkenr  I  left  ttein  to  Ootobeir,  tfiat  with  bo  othw 
fore  Ihajr  would  have  fttlsmd  during  th6  winter.  Thia 
fadt  Aowi  Iha  aiqierior  mildneaa  of  the  oliiuaie^  and  A«uBtt. 
tritive  9M%  of  pmirle  graaa,  evM  after  dried  Vf  with  the 
animMrihfiMih.  Aaoiherevkleneafrfidketn^of  thi*HN 
mark  msyhBmm  bx  the  oonditkin  of  the  settle  kept  at  tUa 
fort.  With  bothiQg  more  to  ieed  upon  than  what  they  find 
upon  the  prairiee,  they  are  now  not  only  kk  good  older,  but 


imimmmumfiKfmmf* 


mmm  win*. 


Mins  of  them  kra  Mtudlj  &t,  and  ia  M  good  oondhioa  for 
market,  aa  oxen  driven  flfom  the  etaUa  of  New  England. 

I  rode  to^y  with  Mr.  P.  ten  milea  up  the  river  to  the 
confluence  of  the  Lewi*,  or  a«  it  ia  oallad,  the  Nex  Pero6 
river,  with  the  Columbia.  They  are  both  noble  etreama ; 
the  Columbia  ia  nearly  throo-fourths  of  a  mile,  and  the 
Ne^  Pero6  a  half  mile  wide.  The  proapeot  around  ia  do. 
lightfiil ;  the  eoil  ia  gdod,  aa  ia  evidenced  by  the  freah  verdure 
whioh  ia  apringing  up  luxuriantly;  at  thia  early  seaeon.  A 
large  band  of  horaea  belonging  to  a  Walla  Walla  chief,  are 
feeding  here.  It  ia  a  eurioua  iact,  that  the  Indian  horaea 
do  not  often  atray  from  the  place  where  they  are  leA ;  habit, 
however  produced,  ia  aa  good  a  aaleguard  aa  inoloaurca. 
Along  upon  the  ahorea  of  the  river,  I  found  apeoimena  of 
oalofldony  and  cornelian. 

TIm  iixth  waa  «  vwy  warm  day,  the  thermocneter  atand. 
ing  at  BOOB,  at  84<*.  Diatant  tbnndar  waa  heard,  iHiieh  ia 
an-  uafteqoeut  oeounranoe  weat  of  tha  great  motuMaiaa. 
Towaida  and  tbiough  tha  nigfat  tha  wfaid  Uaw  vary  atnai^y, 
awl  ahpok  tffe  baatkm  wUdi  I  ooeopiad,  ao  tet  ft  aeMoed 
Ml  If  ft  would  be  prostrated  to  the  eaitii ;  but  raoh  wind  te 
tWa  paitioidar  aeotioa  of  oouatry  ia  ooobbim.  <  i  -r  '^ 

IMag  iha  time  of  my  oontiaaaaoa  ha^  1  tall  titiNi 
frafoaot  oniortnaltiaa  to  addnaa  tha  lattaaa,  aad  tat  grwtar 
iwaabw»yUMm  I  hai  antldpaiejl.  Fran  tha  pmuiaa  AM 
tiM'irosd  tf  CM  ri^lBot  ratUB  Toi4  Iwt  ahull  aooaiBiillA 
that  wlMnMalo  it  iaaant,  any  «Bt  the  hopa  ba  ludalgu^  thM 
aauM  good  ftuka  wiU  ha  dia  reaoh  of  thuu  ItliMU.  91w 
Wuiia  WuUa  tribal  flKwgh  tha  dauoendarta  of  awtiitfulad 
aluva%  ura  aot  Ibiaiior  to^oihar  tribaa,  arBd^wotrauHad  villi 


uiiMiMiiiiiii 


.oiMaMMiMnwnmOTii 


wfm* 


mm 


jovsniT  TO  m  mm  na«i  coumtit. 


M5 


■  good  oonditioB  for 
of  New  Boglaod. 
up  the  river  to  the 
led,  the  Nez  Pero6 
both  noble  etreame ; 
of  a  tnile,  and  the 
Mpect  around  is  de* 
bjrthefreehTerdure 
is  early  seaaon.  A 
Ua  Walla  chief,  are 
,t  the  Indian  horaes 
they  are  leA ;  habit, 
uard  as  inoloearcs. 
found  speoimeBa  of 

thermocnater  ataAd- 
raa  heard,  iHdeh  fo 
t  great  moiuMaiM. 
Maw  vary  atraai^y, 
d,  ao  tet  ft  aeMaed 
;  bat  Midi  wind  te 


I  Imhm^  I  had  naff 
ttaaa,  and  is  graatar 
■n  tha  yioittiaa  tet 
iot  1^11  aMMMBnlliii 


ta^WM  traalad  «llll 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Jounay  to  tha  Nm  PMetf  wmntrywAuMnl  oT  a  ahlM-aalaial  m. 
Mi7-worahip  OB  Um  SBbteth-ratara  to  Wklla  Walla— Mairtry  of 
th«  ladiuM— botil*  froand— praoUoo  of  waeklaf  Joanny  t»  Ool* 
vUo. 

In  company  with  aeveral  Nes  Perc€  Indians  who  had 
come  down  fW>m  their  own  country  to  aaoort  ma,  I  oom* 
meneed  my  journey  on  the  ninth,  and  punuad  tha  aama 
route  by  which  I  came  last  autumn.  Nothing  avaetfttl 
marked  our  way,  and  we  arrived  at  the  Snaka  or  Lawia 
rivar,  tha  evenii^  of  tha  tlevan4i,  whafa  wa  found  aavaml 
lodgaa  of  the  Nen  Poro^a,  who  gav^  ua  *  vaiy  ooiiial  Hv 
caption,  and  a  wann.beartad  ahaks  of  tha  haiid,  tha  OMtt. 
man  ezpraaaioa  of  iiidian>frieadskip.  Tha  aigltt  of  our  ar. 
rivid  a  lilllegirl,aho«t  aixor  savoByaM*  of  i%o,  died,  aoi 
ca  tha  oMnfaigofthatwalfththay  buried  har.  Bvarytki^ 
ralating  to  Hia  burial  wMooikhMladwitli  gwat  pwpitHy. 
1lMgiMra«B8«a1yid»att«*ofoatdaap{  fortk^lMvtao 
spadiaii;aud;a  dlaipaaad  adok  waa  uaad  to  looaea  tha  aMth, 
•ndtyawagwrnoyadwiththehandBi  aadwMblMrlwidi 
thqr  iUad  «p  ^  gnva  aAar  tha  bo^  waa  dapoaHad  ki  k. 
A  aM*««a'l«id  j&  il»fnMa»  thaa  tha  hod^r  «nw*#  ^  ^ 
hh«kei,wM> ##  >Mi'a -diteUag aup tad a|Mi  aUt  of 
hom>r-tlMB«iati  oit  wrtia  i|tisii  awuf  tiw  i>iiBla>  laJHHad 

a  otiMB  toaat  ujp  at  dw  gnvo,  iMnt  piobMiir  h»vlmhMK 

told  to  doaohgraoaaalraqMla  ladkuHkk  txwetwkam  I  «nr 

950 


MMa 


wait  of  th«  mounUiiu,  not  in  the  oapftcity  of  teaohan,  but 
M  trappers  Lt  the  employ  of  the  ftir  oompaniea.  One  grare 
in  the  Mme  village  had  a  oroea  atandlng  over  it,  which,  to- 
gethar  with  thia,  were  the  only  relioa  of  the  kind  I  aaw,  du- 
ring my  travels  in  the  country.  But  as  I  viewed  a  oroea 
of  wood  of  no  avail,  to  benefit  either  the  dead  or  the  living, 
•ad  fkr  mora  likely  lo  operate  as  a  aalvo  to  a  guilty  oon- 
soienoe,  or  a  stepping-stone  to  idolatry,  than  to  be  understood 
in  ila  spiritual  sense  to  refer  to  a  oruoiflxion  of  onr  sins,  I 
look  this,  whioh  the  Indians  had  prepared,  and  broke  It  in 
pieeea.  I  theft  told  them  that  we  place  a  atone  at  the  head 
Md  fiMt  of  the  gr»ve,  only  to  mark  the  plaoe ;  and  without 
a  murmar,  they  oheerAilly  aoquieeoed,  and  adopted  our 


Aa  wa  prooeoded  up  the  river  to  the  ooofluence  of  the 
Ooo«>eoola.ka,  ob  aeoount  of  the  high  water,  w«  had  to  paaa 
over  the  huge  preoipioea  of  basalt,  at  the  lbot«f  whMi  we 
tMveled  down  laal  Ml,  and  which  I  have  aaoBtkMd.  We 
w«i«  wcf^led  oAan  to  appnaaoli  Twry  near  tha  hriak^  whOTs 
It  aaoMid  aa  IT  we  woie  alnaat  aaapeadsd  ovartfwdiny  4epih 
aftlmakwdradfiMt.  Waaniv«datthaOooa<oaeiBJwaftiiy 
in  tka  alUraeM  oTtba  tUid  day  aftsr  leaviag  WalU  Walla, 
waMi^t  the  diataaoa  abom  IM  nttaa.  The  wMa^asMlfy 
hadl  ptH  «■  tiM  iBralUwaaof  spring,  aad  AtmImI  ilMif  af 
fka  drairiaaai  of  wintar,  mad  the  giaadeur  of 
■OMHUy  appaarad  to  riaa  bafef*  ■»  with  MW 
Might.  Tba  liidiMa  •■•  ■wathlli^  i»  § 
flrwii  dift  wt  ani  dhiiiil  paits  of  tha  totuutft  te  aiifhie 
tlMitllla  nUgto  HiatiB  to  giii<1a  tkan  to  Oai  — i  taanwr; 
aMi  wkMi  tl»yili»  thtai  haa  power  t»  akwto  tlnaainriJto 
<«oiJa«f  Mria^ia  thia  w«rid»  and  piuoa  them  an  a4«w} 
friili llilliftnfcia  waU  fttChrisliaa  wMlmntn. 


MM 


■%« 


MINHi 


tj  of  teAohan,  but 
nUm.  Om  grave 
over  it,  which,  to> 
the  kind  I  mw,  du- 

•  I  viewed  •  oroee 
deed  or  the  liTing, 
ro  to  a  guilty  oon- 
an  to  be  undenrtood 
Kion  of  oar  eliu,  I 
«d,  and  broke  it  in 
a  itone  at  the  head 
)laoe ;  and  without 
,  and  adopted  our 

oonfluenoe  of  tke 
ter,  w«  had  to  fum 
m  lbot«f  which  we 

•  Mt^OMd.      W* 

lartha  brink,  whewi 
ovwrdwdinydeirtii 
Ogoa-oeetoJMcarijr 
visKWalUWallB, 

riMwi 

idivMlad  ilMtf  vf 
urof 


m  QTvtnxun. 


991 


On  the  north  of  the  oonfluenoe  of  theae  two  rivere,  and 
down  th«^  Nea  Pero4  rivor,  tlie  country  is  diversified  with 
hills  and  mountains  of  a  great  variety  of  forms,  ironi  five 
hundred  to  two  thousand  ieet  high.  The  volcanic  and  ar- 
gillaceous strata  are  generally  horixontal,  but  in  some  plaoes 
thrown  into  various  degreee  of  inclination,  from  horisontal 
to  perpendicular ;  in  other  plaoes  curved  or  graving.  They 
have  all  the  regularity  of  works  of  art,  raised  up  by  human 
skill ;  and  why  should  not  the  power  and  skill  of  an  Omnip* 
olent  hand  be  acknowledged  in  these  stupendous  works  f 

After  having  been  several  months  where  the  Indiana  of 
the  lower  country  came  daily  under  my  obaervatkm,  the 
contrast  between  them  and  these  with  whom  I  am  now,  is 
very  noticeable.  The  former  are  more  servile  and  abjaot. 
both  in  their  manners  and  spirit ;  while  the  latter  are  truly 
digaiiad  and  reapectaUe  in  their  manners  and  general  a^ 
pearanoe,  for  kaa  aaslaved  to  their  appetites^  or  to  thoae 
vioeawhoaainavita'Ue  tendency  is  to  degrade..  They  know 
oaeiigh  to  set  soma  estimate  upon  diaraeter,  and  have  aiueli 
ef  JbapnuidiiBdepMMianoaoffaaeinaB;  and  ara  dasinma  of 
pnasiwing  a  oiwimnnHi  kk  the  eatlmation<rf  tlher  paqpla, 
aai  §ar  this  rMiioa,  wJab  to  be  taught,  and  thay  raoaiTe  any 
inatriMMioB  witb  wmariiaMt  dooility. 
#  JMwda^,  liagr  14tli.    Veiy  MMiy  of  the  oativea  imt" 

kmmlJmn  Jttlkt  pioafMotof  the  aitivtal  of  iqy  iateipMlar, 
I  akdlpuMwtbly  ba  Mk  lo  eommiaarala  their  anne^*  whUa 
it  )»iU  ha  o«t  of  my  poww  to  do  thaaa  good. 
I  i»ji»  AayKat  appttaatiww  to  pwaBtiha  <mc  tha  ophllwil 

jA^«M  «ki«tfc  *-  ~  ».»— .Li.^  sndemin     PehsBinl  aanliad  In 
itowt  iha  (|iainiiiy  of  onofpaia  to  aadi  oyo)  eaoal»fa«<y» 


mt 


m 


MMNM 


MP 


llulliiii 


m§'  WOSSUF  OK  TBS  SASSi^Ta. 

imr  hoarii,  I  feund  to  b*  ait  •OMoioiM  nm»iy.  No  inju- 
riouf  •flhou  w«ra  known  to  Iwvo  ooounod  fWrnn  ita  uao,  mkI 
In  moat  omm  h  wna  miooowAiI. 

Tho  Nee  Poro^  have  Immo  oolabratod  ht  thair  akill  and 
bravery  in  war.  This  they  have  meoUoned  to  me,  bat  My 
Ihay  now  are  aA«kl  to  go  to  war ;  for  they  no  longer  bo. 
liave  that  all  who  fiUl  in  battle  go  to  a  happy  oonntry. 
They  now  believe  that  the  only  way  to  be  happy  Eei«  or 
hereafter,  ia  by  knowing  and  doing  whM  God  raquirea. 
They  have  learned  enough  to  faar  the  oooeequeaoee  of  dyliif 
itnforgiveu,  but  not  aufloiant  to  emlnmoa  the  hopae  and 
oonedationa  of  the  goapel.  I  have  been  intoreeled  to  aaa 
the  raaaooinga  of  their  minda,  and  the  raauk  of  their  rtflae. 
tiona»  amldet  Oie  dinuieaa  ot  eo  imperlbot  a  kaowledg*  aa 
dwy  yot  poaMai.  It  denioMlratea  thai  thay  are  not  iadtf. 
t$9m$  to  what  they  hear,  and  that  thair  ninda  aio  faiqidik 
tlva,  and  eapable  of  thooght  and  hmMtigatka.  TWy  hav» 
obtahiad  liglrtaiiAoiaat,  toahowhoiv.gMatkllw( 
la  whiah  thay  have  baon  aavalopod  j  and  ik Immim  i 
fht  thaw  aftiM  tnaalighlaa  than>wiM  kalbUovad  bytlMiaa 
itill  «wra  aAoiaat,  util  that  maridhm  d^r  faMoid  te  praph* 
aay,4Ml>AiUy  aoom,  and  thaaa  haattan  bo  gHaii  iothatflw 
vfaur  wMi  all  the  ranaota  cade  of  tha  oaidi  h§  a  i 

flabla«h,  IWi.    ThaialMfpratarlhad 
ootMriv^  aad  eeoaaqiMatly  vmskvtwiml  wWtod  laaajr 
to  tiMaa  haadNda  of  ladtaaa^  ooald  aol  ba 
lb*iito«aai«raaMdtea.  IfchdhuaMi 
daaiiad  lo  ealabanii  tha  flabhalli  ate9  a 
Win  Hw  MMb  aaaaaad  aaaBiaa#vtet«»  afcoalidik  4^^ 


tfM»lM«w  of  tUt  aaeiad  dajr  la  fmf»wmA^lm||fi$li^  aadhla 


iMMNi 


Ml 


mmmmm 


MiMdy.     No  inju* 
d  tnm  ita  um,  mui 

t>r|}MirakniMid 
ned  to  md,  bat  My 
hey  DO  Umget  b«> 
•  iMppjr  oovnirjr. 
be  happy  here  or 
bM  God  requifec. 
lequeiMMeefdylnf 
w  the  hopee  •ad 
k  interaeled  to  ••• 
nik  of  theifrtfle** 
It  A  hiMwle(%»  ■• 
they  ara  aol  Mif> 
nfaide  MO  iaqttWk 
MkM.  TlMyhav» 
»t  b  Um  dsriuMM 
litte^bokBpair 
Mknrodl^irtiMiM 
rJMtoMiapwplni^ 
w  gHen  tolln  gi,; 
kfcffti 


■HwW 

II 


i^  HwBMrtjr  ■"!•• 


UTVBll  TO  WALLA  WALLA.  W§ 

■tnioted  them.  They  did  no,  end  it  wm  tnity  aflbotinf  to 
MO  their  apparent  revemuw,  order  and  devotion,  while  I 
oonid  not  but  know  that  their  knowledge  wae  limited  indeed. 
The  voioe  of  their  einfing  echoed  <Vom  the  hille  and  ▼•'  >e, 
and  I  oould  not  but  hope,  that  the  time  will  not  be  graatly 
Aiture,  when  they  will  aing  with  the  apirit  and  with  the  un- 
doTMMiding.  Ae  a  proof  that  they  hare  aoqaired  aome 
oorreot  ideaa  ot  apiritual  woraliip,  in  diatfaibiion  flom  the 
employment  ol  mere, outward  forma,  Kentoo,  the  Indian 
who  attended  me  eo  fbithAilly  on  my  outward  route,  eame 
(o  me,  Mxioua  to  deeoribe  the  dMercat  manner  in  which  he 
regarded  the  woMhip  of  the  two  ohiefr,  Chhrlie  and  Ten. 
lAoue.  He  aaU  Charlie  prayed  with  hia  lipa,  but  TeotAoua 
prayed  with  hie  heart.  Con fcaaioo  of  ain  appeara  to  oeeupy 
nMwh  of  hia  prayara,  and  if  there  io  ono  among  thia  muM. 
tnde,  who  it  may  be  hoped,  baa  been  ererlaaHngly  bMidHed 
by  the  goapel,  I  beHeve  it  ia  thia  man. 

Maaiay.lMi.  I  had  hitherto  been  aonMwha.  ondaeUad 
what  aomw  to  puma  in  my  fbtora  movemeala ;  bataama 
to  Hw  MBoliMiai  to  pfooaad  to  the  plaee  of  RaadMnrwM^  Md 
join^tha  fatmahig  awmrtt,  pnyrided  I  emrid  go  by  the  way 
oTHm  Onmi  Roittd,aMd  to  tha  aooth-iNal  of  tha  tnilw 
rivwr,  aad  aiplora  a  put  of  the  oouMiy  wUeh  I  had  aat 
pMtod  dmMi^  Hw  pnaatUag  aatttaw.  But  the  fnAaiia 
alMa  to  toha  tfto  rallMd  fa«to  of  the  Mimb  tivsr  mam. 
ttiM,toiM«ld  danger  frnaa  hoadia  ladiaB^ iw  k  waa  v»n 
■aaai^iiiii  Aat  thaiv  waa  a  party  of  maokftal  wanlon 
raaglntflMtoifitorywailerdMgraatiMinrtaiia.  Iwiili. 
ai  to  M^plnra  ilw  MMh-MM  bMMh  of  tM€M«BNii»  wMoi 
rwm^fkm^V  m  taipattaM  ptn  «f  tba  oiMuliy,  aiifl upmi ' 
wlirt^  «td^tto>  bmnahaat  nway  oeiidarihla  Itftea  rwMa. 
^rmtmm^m  wtiy  ny  ooMpMiy  wouM  travel,  and  by 


mmmm 


UiDiAJf   iaiJi9«nT. 


vhioJi  I  OMM,  would  b«  to  1mv0  Um  obtjoot  of  my  tour  only 
partially  aooomplUMd ;  sod  mdmr  owiTMtiai  th*  mhiMt 
M  doliboraioly  m  I  oould,  1  ooooludud  to  rotum  to  Walla 
Walla,  prooura  guidaa  and  aiaifltants,  and  go  up  tlia  Co- 
lumbia aa  &r  aa  Colvila,  whkh  ki  tbo  highaal  poat  of  the 
UudaoD  Bay  Company,  about  aeiren  hundrad  mllaa,  by  tha 
tfavelad  louta,  from  tha  PaaiAo  ooaan.  I  informad  tha  In. 
diana  of  my  detarmlnation,  who,  though  thay  avidantly  pra> 
lerrad  that  I  abould  aooompaoy  tham,  aoquieaead  in  tha 
daciaion,  aud  ahowad  mora  kindooM  than  I  had  axpaolad. 
Thay  laadily  appoinlad  Haminilpilt,  om  of  thair  young 
ohiaft,  to  attand  ma  on  my  ratum  down  tha  rivar.  AAar 
writing  Mvaral  lattara,  to  forward  to  tha  Unitad  Slataa  flrom 
Bandetvoua,  wa  tumad  our  Ikoaa  to  our  prapoaad  dtilinn 
tloo,  and  at  night  arrivad  at  tha  viUaga  on  tha  Nan  Pm«4 
rivar,  whara  wa  had  anoampad  on  tha  akvamh. 

At  thia  plaoa  I  waa  pcouUarly  gmtlAad  to  notlnn  the  !»• 
Aulry  of  tbaaa  paopla.  Soma  waia  angigad  in 
(jah,  and  gnva  na  aooM  MMaUant  mUmni  i  tha 
diUdcMi  waM  tariy  otti  on  hcMnabaok  to  p(t»B«k«  Iha  oowfah 
lool,  whkih  thay  oAaa  manulkotura  into  biaad  {  and  whto 
wa  laftr  dy  a  fiiw  oU  paiaona  and  ifty  yonngahUdvMi  «a- 
OMiBadinUMlriiUaga.  FiTaoraisnitlaaikNnthiaviUafa, 
up  •  MMtU  bnnoh  of  tUi  rivar,  wa  pnaad  a  ^kM,  iriMi 
wfm9  Inr  yma^  ago,  waa  a  battla-iaki  batwaan  tha  Nm 

OMtain^  Moartaio,  but  iNrobably  it  waa  tha 

Tlia  ground  waa  jodioioaaly  (riioaw  by  Aa  invadinf  fsity* 

wUoh  waa  jtiat  baok  of  a  point  of  land 

tka  atmaHB  of  walar,  laavii^  only  a 

wUah  thay  opaaad  a  in,  widle  tha  Na«  Paiadi,  aat 

t^if.  tM  •ppTOMh  of  a  fca^  waia  tahw  by  i»rpriw»  mid  tf> 


(iimniniiji 


nkmm 


Bt  of  my  tour  only 
umia§  Um  mi^Mt 
>  Mturo  to  W»ll« 
•d  go  up  Um  Co< 
ighMl  poit  of  Um 
df«d  nUkM,  by  th« 
1  infoniMd  tbe  l». 
bey  •vkkmtly  pro. 

I  I  hMi  Mpootod. 
•  of  tli^  y*MU>f 
t  Um  rivor.  AAmt 
United  aiatM  fWm 
propowd  dtitiiw 
ibUm  Nm  Pm«4 
•vonUi. 

dlODOtlMUM  <» 
|ll|«d  is 

{  Um 

iraoakv  Um  oowMi 

brtMli  aodwlMB 

young  •UUiMiM* 

lAomUiiivUlagik 

■td  A  MOl«  whWl 

bctwMa  Um  Nm 


M  inwdif  frtyt 


r  MUpfiH^  Mi  i£ 


I 

■din 


■MM 


MACTRm  or  nionii*. 


tfl 


l«on  or  tWMrty  of  ihdr  nambor  wara  klllod.  TIm  ?ory  ipot 
whofo  Moh  indJirUutl  Ml.  b  now  dMignotod  by  bMpt  of 
«owM  rabwi  UiPM  and  Ibur  flMt  big b. 

Tho  oountry  ovor  whleb  wo  pMNd  te^y,  t  diatanoo  of 
ferty  miloa,  wm  uncommonly  ploMUit,  dlv«nria«d  wiUi  hlUa 
•Bd  vnlloy.  ud  oownrf  iHth  ito  wif.providod  o«rpot  of 
lowly  grMfl.  BoTomI  Indiana  oamo  on  afbr  ua  and  traval. 
«d  in  oompuiy.  Naar  night  wo  onoMnp«|  bi  a  rioh  valloy, 
thRMgh  wbioh  a  oonaiderabio  atrwun  of  water  niaa  to  Uic 
iMMth.  Bofcra  it  waa  dark,  a  numbor  moro  whom  I  roooy. 
niaad  aa  fermor  aoquaiataneaa,  orartook  oa,  appamrtly  ra- 
loetant  to  aaparato  from  our  oompaoy.  I  oonranad  wlUi 
tban  about  Um  praoUoo  ao  uniranal  among  Um  man,  of 
ttriim  tobaooo  tvamoking,  a  tary  axpanaiva  indnlganoa,  br 
wbieb  thoy  pay  ahnoat  aa  much  aa  Ibr  UMir  wbola  tiat  of 
oomfcrli  bnUaa.  In  Mply  to  my  aifunanto  to  dfaooada 
than  Aom  ito  uaa,  Utoy  aaid,  «  wiUto  OMa  moka."  I  ad. 
"•toed  tba  tntlb,  but  told  UMm  UMt  all  whito  bmo  an  not 
wiaa  is  avaiy  tiling  tKaydo)  Uiat  Utoy  hava  aoma  pnetfeaa 
wyahMiMliood.  1>aNatPai«daoiintoUooo,aMoka, 
Had  MtMarkai,«#«  Ma  baOar  Umb  Ukan  wlUto  nan ;  Ibr 
UMy  •■taBMte«...iMMUttgtoba«oo->Mwa  do  not  aat  mol*.'* 

Thia  to  U  aoM  waa  ar  arfumaBt  of  moob  akiawdaaaa,  and 
^i*oHy  myMwaimMa.  Such  ia  UmIt  attaehmant  to  tMt 
■taNy*iWvv««*l«.  *«  to  obtain  H,  Aay  wUl  put  wldk 
Um  laat  aitlela  of  feod  or  oloUiii^,  or  aran  taka  down  Uit 

pol- wWafc  nplMld  UMir  dwallinga,  and  aall  Iham  fcr  IW. 

Ia  tWa  viaw  I  lagwdad  it  aa  a  vfaa,  ft«n  wWoh  UMy  abool* 
ba  aaasMd  if  pnoUoabia 

Tha  !«*  wai  eiaaUatiad  (mr  jownay,  and  loda  fcrty.fiT* 

raHwovar  •  OMra  fimllo  tract  Umb  we  paaaed  yaataidi^ 

udbanaraqfliadwiiliwood.    On  Um  apparpaito^Uta 


mm 


ii  ■its  P*"*  9Q!1r 


Walk  Walk  rtv«r  k  •  ibiif  blAil  aituiukw  for  •  mMonary 
•aublkhmml,  bavkg  mMjr  wifMitafM  not  fovwi  Atr  '  >• 
dktaaos  around.  It  la  not,  howavcr,  «>  o^Mml  dti  «tUt«r 
,  tha  Nam  Parote,  Cayuaaa,  or  WaUa  Walka,  aa  would  ba  da. 
■InMa,  yal  a  mlairion  looalad  oo  thia  fertlk  ftald  would 
draw  around  an  Intaraatinf  MttUnMnt,  wbo  would  oulUvaia 
tka  aoU.  and  ba  kauuotad.  How  aaaily  mi«ht  Um  plough 
go  Ikrouf  h  thaoa  vallaya,  and  what  rkh  and  abundant  bar- 
vaato  might  ba  pkthared  by  tha  hand  of  induatry .  Dal  avan 
now  tha  ■pooianaoua  produotiona  of  thaaa  vait  pkka,  ImIu* 
ding  milUooa  of  aoiaa,  ara  to  proAiaa,  that  not  tha  AAklh 
fmti  baoomaa  tha  food  of  organic  Ufo.  In  MMna  plaoaa  banda 
of  Indian  horaaa  tra  aaan  ;  tha  timid  daar,  tha  ban,  tha 
wary  marmot,  and  tha  awift  gaaalk.  But  tkaaa,  with  otbar 
aaimala,  oooauma  ao  amall  a  profiortiam  that  thaaa  wida 
flalda  M«  oomparatiraly  unoooupiad. 

Wa  axparkiioad  a  long  datantioa  on  tht  moraiBg  of  tbt 
IMh,  in  ooMa^MMa  of  our  l«r«aa  waadaring  into  a  mviaa. 
(owyohiatiwtwaaottldaalaMUytmflalkam.  Tbtydid 
net,  hBiwwfmt  Hnkk  thair  gak,  of  makt^tg  wut  aw»Mi|fMti 
for  tha  tioM  baing.  thair  tioraa.  Wa  loda  twaaty-tvo  mllaa 
and  arriya<l  at  WaUa  Walk  f  t^ia  im»ia4»i  ofHw 

waak«»aaooou|dadiaBaoaar  mmtafJftA^^ 

•Mt«Mr,aiidkwritkgktt  smk^.    Ut.r.mitmito 

ohtatetaf  lodko  gvidaa,  and  daaigaMad  t««  ?tmttk  ««•• 
gmm  to  ba  my  aaiiatattk }  om  of  whom  wmM  ^paak  aona 
Baglkik.  looMludadtot»kahona%Miidg»iipthrai«htM 
SpoUiB  oouotiy,  kaviag  tha  fvaat  baad  of  tb*  GeluniNt  M 
tha  tall  aoraa  Afty  or  ikty  mika,  and  «•  ow  ratttta  10  klM  Iha 
rivar.  ThkwottMgiTamaamoMoxliadadobparratiMof 
tha  aotntry,  of  tha  tr«ha«  who  iahahit  It,  aadaf  thak  oimiitkm 


mam 


II       I  \amfmmmtmtllmmmt 


t  lb«IMl  lot    'I* 

M  would  h»6a- 
lib  IWkl  wmiia 
I  would  oulUviM 
»if ht  iha  ptoufh 
1  ftbundaal  bar- 
Mry.  Bat  ««mi 
Hrt  plakw,  faMlu* 
I  not  tiM  AAWth 
OM  plkOM  bAoda 
»r,  tha  ban,  tba 
tkaaa,  with  otbar 
that  thaM  wid* 

I  oMralaf  <^  iba 
Of  iaio  a  mviaa, 
bum.  TWydy 
mi  Mwaw^Maati 
twflMty-tyo  mUaa 
Tawaiin<wraf<ha 
■lilir;!  ft  Akr 
Mf.P.MriHiJto 
pa  PiwMB ' 


^tt^thiwiihtha 
'  tha  Columbia  la 
rattmlBtalMitba 
ad  pbparyaHaw  of 


pi 


jcnsjfs*  TO  ecLyiui. 


8M 


On  Sabbath,  tha  99d,  wa  had  wnrnhip  m  uaual,  aad 
lh«  followijif  day  oominmKMd  th«  jiNinMy  for  Col  vil«.  0«r 
oounM  was  in  an  MMtariy  diraoUon  forty  milM,  ami  at  night 
w«  found  a  naw  plaoa  to  lay  our  hoada  for  r««t,  In  a  vallajk 
praaantinf  all  tha  appaaranoa  of  tha  (krmar'ii  gnm  Aalda, 
raady  for  tb«  inower'a  hand,  and  tntm  which  ha  axpaota  to 
raoaiva  a  ftttura  gain.  Bat  tha  nalivaa,  not  appraoiating 
thaaa  aourora  of  proflt,  naglact  th«m  altogalbar.  and  gathar 
only  a  aoanty  living  from  a  few  aaoulrat  rooia,  whiah  grow 
■potrtanaoualy  in  tha  waala. 


96 


wmm 


„iij^ 


L    ^ 


W»w>w 


;- 


%94 


FAUMn  mvuro- 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

PklooM  Indiana— PkTilion  rivtei^-extrtordinuj  obMrration— loit  oa 
the  prairie— Indiui  prinoiple— 8{«kein  woods  ud  ooontij— ladiBa 
ftrrjr — Spokaia  valtey— granite — roleanie  corioaitie*— fortUe  vaUey 
— worabip  with  the  Spakaina— UlU  riTor  valloy— «yriTal  at  Fort 
CoWUo— deaoription  of  tho  plaea ;  laave  CoMle  for  Fort  OluuufaB 
— a  mountain  of  marble — Grand  CouM,  or  old  bed  of  thn  Colombia 
— Okan»^n  deaerib«d--  Long  rapida — arrive  at  Walla  Walla. 

The  mornisg  of  the  34th,  we  took  a  mora  northerly  course, 
and  after  traveling  five  hours  over  a  somewbat  high  but 
diversified  country,  descended  into  a  fertile  valley,  through 
which  flowed  a  small  tributary  of  the  Snake  river.  Hera 
we  found  a  village  of  Palooee  Indians  who  are  a  band  of  the 
Nez  Perots.  We  hired  them  to  anist  us  in  crossing  the 
river,  which  here  is  a  half  mile  wide,  and  has  a  rapid  cur- 
rent. We  had  only  a  soiall  canoe,  wUoh  the  strength  of 
the  current  carried  more  than  a  half  mile  down  the  river 
before  we  could  gain  the  (^posite  shore.  Three  times  we 
had  to  encounter  the  stream,  before  every  thing  was  safely 
over ;  and  the  horses  made  a  strong  eflfort  to  swim  to  tlie 
opposite  shore.  This,  together  with  refitting,  employed  sev- 
eral hours.  We  traveled  up  the  Pavilion  river,  which  comes 
from  the  high  lands  that  divide  the  waters  of  this  and  the 
Spokein  river.  This  river  is  walled  up  with  basalt,  gener- 
ally high  and  perpendicular,  in  various  windings  and  forms, 
for  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles.  In  some  places 
the  walls  are  spread  out  so  widely  as  to  enclose  large  BptotM 
of  rich  interval ;  in  other  places  so  dosing  upon  the  river 


'•■  "  ■ —  -^..^^j^L^ilttaia. 


'  ^i-:!^.^^..<c.«^«.-«i^,^;iataiai. 


iiiiiMii^i|ii 


BfaMrraUon — lott  a> 
uid  eoontij— Inditn 
idtie*— ftrtUa  rMuf 
l«7— «mTal  ml  Fort 
» for  Fort  Okuufma 
bed  of  th«  Colombia 
it  Walla  Walla. 

I  northerly  ooune, 
>mewbat  high  but 
ie  valley,  through 
ake  river.  Her« 
I  are  a  band  of  the 
uain  orosBing  tb* 
1  bM  •  rapid  our- 
oh  the  atrengtb  of 
Ie  down  the  river 
Three  times  we 
r  thing  was  safely 
>rt  to  swim  to  tlie 
ng,  employed  sev> 
river,  which  cones 
irs  of  this  and  the 
vith  basalt,  gen«r< 
indings  and  forms, 
.  In  some  places 
loloee  large  gprnott 
ling  upon  the  river 


liwm'. 


irrBAOlOIHAtT  nCATATION.  Ht 

ss  to  leate  only  space  sufficient  for  it  to  paw>.  The  night 
was  cold,  the  thermometer  standing  on  the  morning  of  the 
S&th,  at  840- 

•  Wo  pursued  our  way  over  hills  and  valleys  of  an  entii« 
prairio,  until  we  cne  to  the  south  part  of  the  Spokein 
country.  Near  the  summit  level  which  di  fides  the  watara 
of  the  Snake  and  Spokein  rivers,  there  is  an  interesting  ex. 
cavaUon,  walled  within  by  basalUo  rooks.  The  pillars  are 
regular  pentagons  from  two  to  four  feet  in  diameter,  in  sec- 
tions of  various  lengths,  standing  erect  and  closely  joined, 
making  a  wall  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  foet  high.  The 
excavated  enclosure,  though  not  in  a  regular  form,  is  yet 
nearly  entire,  containing  fifty  or  more  acres.  On  the  out- 
side of  this  waii,  the  earth  is  as  high  as  the  pillars,  and 
gradually  slopes  off  in  hills  and  dales.  By  what  ageney 
was  this  excavation  formed  ?  There  is  no  appearance,  M 
in  many  other  places,  of  volcanic  craters,  ualess  it  is  itself 
a  crater,  and  there  are  no  signs  of  the  action  of  water. 
May  it  not  have  been  a  subsidence  ?  1  passed  through  it 
leisurely,  and  surveyed  with  admiration  these  huge  orya- 
tals,  of  imtk  materials  truly,  but  showing  not  the  less  for 
that  oiroomstaQoe,  that  certain  law*  govern  the  ndnerttl 
world,  as  well  as  the  aniiAal  or  vagvuUe. 

We  passed  tCMtlay  several  small  villages  of  the  Ne> 
Pwra<  and  Spokein  nations.  They  all  manifested  a  per- 
feotly  friMidly  diiposition,  but  •ffM.nd  to  be  pomr,  evi^nt- 
ly  in  want  of  a  oomfovtable  subsistence.  Wm  stopped  for 
the  night,  aJUr  a  ride  of  fifty  miles,  near  one  of  these  vil- 
lages«r  Spokehw.  Their  language  diflbrs  idraost  oitirely 
from  that  of  any  tribe  or  nation  I  have  yet  seen.  One  of 
my  Indian  guides  was  sufficiently  acquainted  with  it  to 
inform  them  of  the  object  of  my  tour  through  their  ooun- 


iitiarl"'iiiTi>ii«rt%i 


i'^MWil 


Hi'upi 


2M 


LOST  on  THS  nULOOB. 


try,  with  which  they  wert  not  only  utiafied.  but  apparently 
intereited. 

We  took  an  early  departure  on  the  mombig  of  the  9<Hh, 
but  traveled  only  a  few  hours  before  my  Indian  guides  loA 
the  trail  and  the  oourae  they  should  purauo.     Becoming 
confident  that  they  were  not  right,  I  alighted  and  eet  my 
pocket  ocMnpass,  and  diaoovered  that  instead  of  a  nortb-eiat 
direction,  they  were  going  west.    Enquiring  of  them  if  they 
knew  where  tc  find  our  trail  again,  one  of  them,  a  young  chiefs 
putting  his  hand  to  his  head,  and  with  gestures  expressing 
the  conAuion  of  his  mind,  answered,  twrnte  en  toko,  "  I  do  not 
know."    Our  situation  Vas  rather  embarrasidng.     We  had 
▼ery  injudiciously  left  our  rifles  belJnd,  and  were  at  about 
so  equal  dtstanoe  from  Walla  Walla  and  CoWils,  on  a  wide- 
ly aztmided  prairie,  with  proTiakios  adequate  to  our  waoli 
only  for  two  days,  and  no  probable  means  for  obtaining , 
more  until  we  should  arrire  at  the  foit ;  to  be  lost  under 
these  cirourostanoes  was  very  unpleasant.    Hie  poiBt  of  a 
U|^  mountain  we  had  paawd  was  in  TJew,  and  wa  m^|ht 
Mtvaoe  our  path,  and  therefore  I  was  determinsd  notto  to« 
sight  of  this  land.nuurk,  until  we  dtould  find  the  trril  laad* 
ii^  10  the  %okein  river.     Wfaflo  my  guides  weal  off  ia 
sewoh  of  it,  I  could  hardly  foil  Ic  find  even  in  our  droom. 
some  amusement  hi  the  ap^,  Hy  o^" '■'■y  ^wo  Prenoh. 
They  are  so  oooflding  in  Indk,  .->  skill  to  fold  tibair 
way  through  any  country,  as  by  uHoition,  that  they  will  afaig 
or  goto  sleep  with  the  same  heedless  indiiereno*  when  kit 
in  a  wide  wiUemess,  as  when  launched  upon  Hie  waters  of 
•  w«U  known  river,  or  performing  the  duties  of  ^  fort. 
Tliey  appear  wholly  unconsokHis  of  danger  on  the  ^^roaeh 
of  hunger  and  starvation,  until  long  aftm  the  Uat  moisolli 
consumed,  and  never  borrow  hom  futurity  to  add  to  the  evik 


iMaMllMSM*iliM<*lM 


.■^.^.^^■ui..^,?...;^vi,.i-^-^i,.^..»tf^H,.^^W.^^'/fr,r     ^         ■111,    I    iii|iiritfiis 


P<|PH<"«W» 


i 


iPOUiM  snru. 


wr 


I,  but  apparently 

ling  of  the  36(h, 
ndian  guides  loift 
luo.     Becoming 
ited  and  set  mjr 
kdofanortb-eMt 
g  of  them  if  they 
im,  a  young  chief, 
tuiM  expraeeing 
en$elco,  "Idonot 
Msing.     We  had 
ad  were  at  about 
!oWile,onawida. 
late  to  our  wants 
use  for  obtaiataig 
to  be  kut  under 
Hie  poiBtora 
w,  and  WA  m^ht 
rminednottotoai 
ind  the  trril  lead, 
uideewent  off  ia 
m  in  our  droom. 
I"  tttf  two  Prenoh. 
■kill  to  find  their 
hat  Hiey  will  lii^i 
ierence  when  kat 
pon  tite  watai*  at 
lOtks  of  ikt  felt, 
iron  the  ^n>rBaeh 
the  Uu*  monel  in 
toaddtothaevUe 


iSyMMaMMMMMI 


that  afflict  them  UMlay.  On  thia  oooaaion  theae  men  apent 
the  time  of  our  detention  in  calm  repoee.  After  eome  time 
our  guides  returned  and  told  me  they  had  found  some  Spo- 
kein  Indians  about  a  mile  distant,  who  were  traveling  to- 
wards the  south,  but  had  stopped  to  refresh  their  horses. 
We  proceeded  to  the  place,  and  I  engaged  one  of  them  to 
assist  us  in  finding  the  way  to  the  main  trail,  or  to  the  Spo- 
kein  river.  He  was  a  tall,  intelligent  looking  man.  He 
mounted  his  horse,  and  set  off  with  such  speed,  that,  jaded 
as  our  horses  were,  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  keep  up 
with  him.  After  goiag  at  this  rate  more  than  an  hour,  he 
stopped,  and  pointed  ua  to  a  lake,  and  said  we  should  And 
tha  great  trail  mi  the  east  side.  Leet  we  shoaM  again  loae 
our  way,  I  was  anxious  to  liave  hbn  conduct  us  to  dkeir  vil. 
lage  on  the  river,  but  could  not  prevail  upon  him-  to  go-  any 
fiirdier,  although  I  oflfored  him  a  large  eompensatloii.  His 
only,  and  unvarying  answer  wa^  that  he  had  done  for  us 
all  that  was  needed,  and  why  diould  he  perform  any  on- 
necessary  labor  for  u»aad  take  pay.  It  appeared  to  be  A 
prino^e  with  him^  that  it  would  be  wrn^  for  him  to  take 
pay  for  what  w«  did  not  need.  K  was  astonished  at  the  hon- 
esty of  thia.  heatiiea^  and  hi*  stoadlhst  adherence  to  it,  when 
I  remembered  bow  many  there  are  in  civilized  lands,  who 
to  be  well  paid,  would  leagflien  a  service  to  an  unnecessary 
extwit,  and  artfirily  deceive  you  to' make  you  believe  it  very 
important.  For  hia  fiuthAilnesa  and  hmtealjf  I  not  only  paid 
him  on  the  ^ot  to  his  sattefiustion,  but  afbrwanb  sent  him 
a  preaeiit  of  powder- and  balls,  articles  highljr  valued. 

Without  any  forther  difficulty,  we  arrived  at  the  Spokein 
river,  at  four  o'clock,  P.  K,  A  few  miles  after  we  left  the 
bike,  we  entered  the  Spokein  woods  which  are  very  exten- 
sive, oonsistiag  of  ydlow  pitoh  and  dastlo  pine,  some  hem- 

26* 


iS" 


X 


oimmmf^ 


tronuf  ¥AU«T. 

loo,  apnioe  and  fir,  togethor  with  varioiu  ahrubbery.  Thott 
•re  tbo  woods  in  whioh  Rom  Cox  wm  kwt,  about  the  oir. 
ounurtanoes  of  which  be  gives  »  very  interesting  deeoriptioo, 
but  whioh,  BO  &r  as  I  have  yet  had  an  opportunity  to  judge, 
contains  fkr  more  fiotion  than  truth.  But  his  multitude  of 
growling  bears,  and  howling  wolves,  and  alarming  rattle* 
snakee,  of  whioh  I  have  seen  only  one,  may  yet  oome  out 
fVom  their  lurking  places  in  hostile  array. 

When  we  oame-  to  the  river  whioh  is  about  thirty  rods 
wide,  we  hallooed  a  long  time  for  the  Indian  who  keeps  a 
oanoe  ferry,  but  without  suooese.  At  length  two  women 
came  to  the  river,  and  with  unoommonly  pleasant  vmoee, 
together  with  the  language  of  signs,  the  latter  of  which 
only  I  oould  understand,  inibnned  us  that  the  ferryman  was 
gone  upon  a  short  hunt,  would  return  in  the  evening,  and 
the  next  momiag  at  son  two  houn  hig^,  he  would  oome 
and  take  us  over.  I  never  heaid  voieee  more  expwiv<  of 
kindness.  I  requested  them  to  paddle  the  oaooe  over  to  us, 
and  my  men  would  perform  the  labor  of  fenying  over  o«r 
baggage.  They  deoliaod  on  aooouat  of  the  n^id^  and 
Mnogth  of  the  ounent,  the  river  bnng  in  fiill  finashet. 
Xlkeiefere  wa  had  to  enoaop  and  waft  fer  tlw  raoniing. 

Thiais  a  very  i^eaeaat,  opev  valtsy,  thoo^  not  axieii. 
~  aivdy  wide.  The  N«rtli.weat  Obnqiaay  had  a  trading  peat 
hMre,  one  bastion  of  whioh  kadll  standii^.  nieaawosdi 
present  a  fine  range  fir  the  oraMMogiaC  The  magpia  ia 
seen  in  great  numbers,  flaring  ftnwr  trsa  ter'  tree,  vedftttntlag 
fts  chattel^  notes.  Also  thraabea,  warUen,  and  mtwm 
arc  munaioaa,  oheetfaig  Aoee  odtorwise  aelitary  wUda  #Mi 
lbeirdel%htftilsangaignildbltothe  weary  timvalMT.  TlHir 
•ar^  «n>MU'  to  be  dea^pied  to  aiynttte  eaeii  other  in  tMx 
kHarvala  of  labor,  wMla  eonetruoliiv  thair  hahilailni  ao 


tl>IMMi 


Mdta 


lilr.liii«iiii.lilliil   l1li«lli'l<l«Mlllili(tfi*lMMMW««>M«' 


rppii^ 


mm 


ibbery.  Th«n 
,  about  Um  oir. 
ting  deaoripdoo, 
rtunitytojudgs, 
hia  multitud*  of 
Jaimiiig  imttle- 
y  yet  oome  out 

ibout  thirty  rod* 
•n  who  keeps  • 
^  two  woman 
pleasant  vmoea, 
latter  of  which 
le  ferryaiaii  waa 
he  evening,  and 
.  he  would  ooma 
WW  e«pwriy6  of 
lanoa  orer  to  m, 
inrying  over  o«r 
the  n^id^  and 
in  foil  firaahet. 
themofirfng. 
00^  not  atea> 
id  a  trading  peat 
f,    l^eaawoada 
Themagpiaia 
trae^vodlhfaiting 
UeM,aad  wtcm 
IttaiywOdavith 
ti»T»lar.   Ililr 
MdiodMr  InttMlr 
Ax 


sroaxiH  TAtuTf  "^ 

admirably  adapted  for  their  tender  oApring  ;  on  an  exam, 
ination  of  which,  the  moat  infidel  philoeopher  mual  ba  aa> 
toniahed,  and  be  oonat rained  to  acknowledge,  that  Qod  haa 
manifeated  himaelf  in  supplying,  inatead  of  reaaon,  a  royala. 
rious,  unerring  instinct,  always  sufficient  for  the  end  to  be 
accomplished. 

On  the  97th,  about  the  time  in  the  morning  meatfonad  by 
the  two  women,  the  Indian  ferryman  came,  and  oroaaed  the 
river  in  his  canoe.  His  appearance,  together  with  that  of 
his  canoe,  reminded  me  of  Jhwas'  ferryman,  who  oarrisd 
him  over  the  Stygian  Uka. 

•'CuitM  IneoltaJlMMt ; 
Sordidu  ax  hamwto  nodo  deptadtt  amletiis, 
C«NaltsM  advarih  synbua,  ilp««at  jnfbt^mV* 

Afbw  the  ifver,  we  eroaaad  the  Talley  of  laval  tllutlal 
aoil,  where  it  ii  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  wMa,  and  tha 
east  aide  eapedally  is  vary  fertile.  Hera  the  prinelpnl  ^1 . 
laga  of  the  apoMm  is  located,  and  one  of  thair  numbar  hum 
oomnMaced  tf^  cultivation  of  a  flnall  flald  or  gunlaa, 
which  he  has  planted  with  potaloea,  paaa,  and  bsMMi  and 
sottM  odwr  vageiablea ;  all  of  wUeh  w«ra  flonrWdat,  mm! 
were  the  fint  I  had  aean  apriaging  op  under  IndiaillndhMlry 
wistofthanMaBlahw.  Ourfenynaaoonduetadaathroogh 
the  vdUagr  to  tha  feci  of  the  mountain  on  the  aaat,  nkl  pdal* 
ed  am  the  tcall  wa  ahoald  punma.  As  wa  wo«Bd>««r  way 
up  the  ttioantain,  I  looked  down  kto  tha  viUlay  wa  InmI 
cfoaaad.  and  wUoh  atiatabaa  akog  tha  wladiag  itvar,  lad 
draw  ia  my  iamgiaatlon  a  plotura  of  what  It  will  ha,  iHmi 
thit  paopla  hM  hrooght  under  tha  hiflnenoa  of  OtMrMaally 
and  eivttiaatkai.  TUa  aeotioa  o(  country  pMMaH  Itaa 
ofvokaaiaopNatkMi,  and  laMfaiml  plaatal 


mm 


«p»Hmp<i 


300 


VOMANiC  QVKOSaUM. 


found  grtnite  in  it*  natunl  fomr  Mtd  position;  natmblinf 
that  fbond  in  the  Baatom  SlatM.  Wh«n  we  had  arrivfld  nt 
the  eummit  of  thia  mountain,  we  omm  to  •  Mutdjr  plain,  aer- 
eral  milea  wide,  oovered  with  yellow  ^ne  fonning  an  open 
foreet.  Over  parte  of  this  plain  were  aoattend  voloanio 
eruptions  of  singular  ibrmation.  Hundreds  of  regular  omes 
of  trarioua  magnitudes,  fWmi  thoee  of  only  a  few  feet  in  di. 
ameler  and  height,  to  thoee  a  hundred  in  diameter  and  sixty 
feet  high.  They  all  had  the  sanM  appearance,  diflhring 
(«ly  in  magnitude,  and  were  compoeed  of  broken  granite, 
in  angular  pieoes,  from  thoee  that  were  very  small^  to  ai> 
or  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  on  the  outside  were  nearly 
blaok,  as  if  colored  with  rising  smoke.  Thej*  bad  more 
the  appearr^oe  of  being  broken  by  manual  labor,  and  piled 
up  for  Aiture  use  in  constructing  roads  or  wharves,  than  the 
remit  of  internal  firea,  and  yet  no  other  cause  but  the  latter 
oan  be  aasigiMd.  The  sandy  plain  around  tiMm  was  ub> 
disturbed,  and  large  pine  trees  weie  growing  about  them  as 
in  other  places.  At  the  south  of  thsea  were  large  locks  of 
fianite,  and  in  Juxtapositiaa  a  basaltic  dyke  extending  a 
hundred  rods  or  more. 

After  passing  this  plain,  we  descended  and  came  agafai 
to  the  Spokain  rirar,  which  makes  a  bend  around  to  the 
north-east.  In  this  ^aoe  the  valley  ia  leas  wtoisive,  and 
the mouataina  are  more  precipitous.  Weagain  ascended  tlto 
meutBtaia,  upon  which  granite  and  mica  alat*  prevail,  with* 
out  any  vdcanic  appearances.  Prom  this  we  descended  iirto 
»  rich  valley,  whidi  was  oovered  with*  luxuriant  growth 
of  gras%  though  but  just  sprin|^nf  i^.  litis  valley  has  (ke 
appearance  of  having  been  a  lake  filled  up  with  mounialB 
depoeits..  In  the  oentM  ia  c  small  lake,  from  whkk  |hpo> 
oaeda  a  rivulet  paaaiiv  out  at  the  aouth-weat.     Lm^ib^ 


■mwmmmmM 


OOTM^WPKiapPliln 


AKzumr  or  tmm  ■vonnri. 


Ml 


lion;  rsMniblinf 

•  had  arrivfld  at 
•ndy  plain,  mt- 
brming  an  open 
attend  voloanio 
of  ngularoonM 
ft  few  foot  in  di- 
meter aad  aixty 
ranee,  diflhring 
broken  granite, 
ry  tmallk  to  eia 
ide  were  nearly 
nmy  had  more 
labor,  and  piled 
luunrea,  than  the 
M  but  the  latter 
I  them  was  ua- 
I  about  them  aa 
ftlaife  lookaof 
to  extending  a 

lad  came  again 
around  to  the 
I  wtMMlTe,  aad 
kinaaoendedthe 
■  prevail,  with* 
I  deeoended  'aio 
Buriant  growth 

•  ▼alley  ha*  lite 
with  mwmteJB 
Mn  whidk  fHPo> 
art.     Umvinif 


thia  plaoe,  #e  wound  around  a  mountein  in  a  northerly  di. 
reotion,  down  a  valley  leas  fertile,  but  mora  extendve,  and 
at  four  in  the  afternoon  oaroe  to  a  atream  of  water,  coming 
fW>m  the  mounteini  at  the  eaet,  where  our  guidea  aaid  we 
must  stop  for  the  night. 

Near  evening,  eeveral  oompaniee  of  Spokein  and  some 
Nez  Pero«  Indiana  eame  riding  full  apeed  into  the  place  of 
our  encampment,  and  turned  out  their  hones  with  oun  ia 
the  hiilfwood  and  prairie.  The  Bpokeine,  who  had  aeen 
me  on  my  way,  and  had  learned  who  I  waa,  aent  informa. 
tioo  cut  to  tho  varioua  hunting  partiea,  that  a  minister  was 
paaaiag  through  their  oountry,  and  aa  it  was  the  first  time 
one  was  ever  among  them,  they  wished  to  see  him  and  hear 
what  he  had  to  aay  to  them.  They  brought  with  them  a 
good  interpreter,  a  young  man  of  their  nation,  who  had  been 
in  the  school  at  the  Red  river  aetdement  near  lain  Winat. 
p^,  en  the  east  skle  of  the  mountain,  and  had  obtained  a 
very  good  knowledge  of  English.  We  had  publio  wonhip 
that  evening  in  the  Spokein  and  Nes  Pero^  languages. 
One<tf  the  Nes  Pero^  a  chief  who  uadentood  the  Spokein 
Iwtgoage.  collected  his  people,  a  little  to  the  leil  of  the  Spe>. 
keinsb  and  translated  the  disoouiM  as  it  wasdeUvwvd^  into 
the  language  of  hia  people,  without  any  intermptioa  to  the 
aaiviai.  Tliis  waa  a  plan  of  their  own  devising.  All  tlw 
oiinv!ki4anoea  sonoined  were  to  me  unusually  interesting. 
Pr.^vid«ioea  above  my  mwtiol  had  delayed  me  three  eeveml 
tanM%  and  thus  given  them  aa  opportunity  to  oolleot  their 
people  and  overtake  me.  Some  of  them  had  pureued  my 
path  a  day  aad  a  half,  and  were  unwillii^  to  letnrn,  bring 
rseolved  to  aoeompany  me  to  Oolvile.  These  benighted 
Indiana  manifested  the  aamo  aolicitude  to  hear  the  goapel 
that  others  had  done  before.    And  as  a  most  afirting  proof 


mm 


m  iJm 


Wm  nLZ,  inriB  TALUT. 

that  the  ImprcMiaiM  th«n  made  on  their  mindi  want  not 
monMHtary,  they  w«nt  horn*  and  eraotod  in  their  villafs  a 
ohuroh,  oonatruotad  of  ruda  matariali  raralj,  but  daaignad, 
aa  they  laid,  to  Aimlsh  a  place,  that  whan  th«  next  miwion- 
ary  should  arrivit,  he  might  stop  and  teach  them.* 

The  morning  of  the  36th  was  cloudy  and  eome  rain  fell, 
but  this  did  not  prevent  our  enrly  departure  ;  for  it  was  ne- 
oessary  to  be  on  our  way,  as  my  men  had  the  evening  before 
consumed  their  entire  stock  of  provisions,  and,  whatever 
might  occur,  we  could  procure  no  more  until  we  should 
reiioh  Colvile.  We  could  not  obtain  any  game,  for  being 
advised  by  the  superintendent  at  Walla  Walla  not  to  en- 
cumber ourselvee  with  riflM,  we  had  unwisely  left  them 
behind.  After  traveling  a  few  milte  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion we  came  to  a  very  fortile  valley,  well  adapted  to  culti- 
vation, extending  north  and  south,  at  least  fifty  miles,  and  of 
various  extent  in  width,  firom  a  half  mile  to  two  miles.  The 
valley  is  an  open  prairie  well  supplied  with  gresa,  and  even 
in  tbia  high  latitude  otiS^,  cattle  could  do  well  through  the 
whola  year,  without  the  labor  of  catting  hay.  The  hills  on 
aaoh  lids  ara  oovei*d  with  woods.  As  we  proceeded  down 
thia  valley,  we  came  to  villages  of  Indiana  who  understood 
the  Spokein  language,  but  belonged  to  another  tribe,  prob- 
ably (0  the  CoMir  d'AUne.  Near  their  principal  village 
waeame  10  Mill  river,  which  was  in  ftiUfkvahal.  They  had 
no  oaaoae,  and  we  found,  difficulty  in  getting  my  baggage 
aoroas.  But  the  Nes  Pero<  chief  took  part  of  it  upon  bis 
diouldar,  mounted  his  horse,  and  swam  over,  and  oraaad 


•  Th* 


written  SpoksB, 


I  of  lUa  aatioB  is  g«B« 
Sysfcsm.    I  eallad  Vbum  Bpoksaa,  bat  ihty  tameM  mj  pra 
tisa,  aii4  mU  Beokste,  mm  tkk  they  rtpMtad  Mvanl  mim, 

'nm  eoavinead  that  to  give  tksir  v 

sbeold  hs  writtw  eptkiia. 


voir  COLTIU. 


mindt  w«r«  not 
I  their  vill»ii«  • 
f,  but  dMigMd, 
M  next  miMion- 
them.* 

■oma  rain  fell, 
;  tbr  it  WM  n«' 
» evening  before 

Mid,  whatever 
iintil  we  should 
game,  for  being 
alia  not  to  en- 
rieeljr  left  them 
I  eaaterljr  direo* 
idaptad  to  oulti- 
Ity  miles,  and  of 
wo  milea.  The 
graM,  and  even 
rell  through  the 
r.  The  hilla  on 
prooeeded  down 
who  ondentood 
ther  tribe,  prob- 
trinoipal  village 
ihet.  Thejhad 
ig  nay  baggage 
rt  of  it  opoB  hia 
er,  and  croaad 


Wel  ttM.  OBtil  I 


and  re^roee«]  unUl  all  waa  upon  the  other  tide.  I  then 
oroeMd  upon  a  pole,  which  waa  not  the  moat  dedrable  meth. 
od,  but  lUll  it  waa  preforable  to  a  oold  bathing  on  horMbaok. 
After  purmiing  our  ooufm  a  few  mile*  farther,  I  divided  my 
remaining  etook  of  eatablee  with  my  deeUtute  Prenoh  and 
Indian  attendant^  antioipaUng  our  next  mea^  at  the  Uma 
when,  after  a  long  day's  induatrioua  travel,  we  should  And 
ourselves  safely  at  Colvile. 

Towards  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  through  whioh  wa 
were  passing,  the  land  is  remarkably  fertile.  A  missionary 
located  here,  would  have  easy  aooess  to  the  Spokein,  Sap- 
well,  Sintou-tou-oulish,  Kettle  falls.  Lake,  Cmur  d'Altoe, 
and  Pondera  Indians.  I  know  not  of  so  important  a  field 
within  two  hundred  miles,  presenting  the  natural  advanU. 
ges  of  mild  olimate,  good  soil,  and  forasts. 

We  arrived  at  Port  Colvile  late  in  the  afternoon,  after  a 
weary  journey  of  sixty  miles.  The  situation  of  this  fort  ia 
on  an  elevated  spot,  about  fifty  rods  from  the  river,  sun 
rounded  by  an  alluvial  plain  of  rich  soil,  and  opening  in 
every  direction  an  extended  proqieot  of  mountain  scenery ; 
^nd  a  half  mile  below  an  Kettle  falls,  above  which  tha 
river  spreads  out  wWely,  and  moves  slowly,  bat  just  above 
the  preoipioe  it  contracts  into  a  narrow  channel,  and  dia. 
appaan  fiom  tha  view  of  the  spectator  at  the  fort,  until 
seen  winding  ita  way  among  rooks  below.  This  eatebliah. 
ment  is  Imilt  for  defense  and  is  well  stoccaded,  but  so  fiiend. 
ly  have  tha  natives  always  been,  that  no  wan  have  eve? 
occurred  among  them.  It  is  occupied  by  some  half  doiao 
men  with  Indian  families,  and  is  well  supplied  with  tha 
useftil  animals  and  fowls  oommon  to  ferming  establiah. 
meate.  Tha  winter  and  summer  grains,  together  with  gar. 
dan  vegatablaa,  an  cultivated  with  success  and  in  profusioa. 


.jr 


,♦ 


AT  m  fOlT. 

TUi  i^Imm  doM  not  nibr  with  mmoMr  dioutb,  lik*  ouNiy 
oUmt  pMti  of  tkk  oooatiy.  m  rmias  mn  ot  tim\»mA  oeour- 
r«w« ;  Um  mmom  Imi«  kra  not  mo  dialiaoUy  divUM,  m  on 
Um  lowor  pMTto  oftlM  Columbi*,  into  w«t  and  diy. 

I  WM  mttoh  diMppoiot«l  in  not  Anding  Mr.  MoDoanld. 
tb*  tuporintandont  of  the  fort,  at  homo.  Ho  hnd  l«A  •  fcw 
dnya  bofor*  with  •  bri((ndo  for  Fort  Vuioouver ;  but  th« 
liindMt  •ttaation  wm  p«id  nio  by  thoto  who  had  tha  ehnrga 
of  tha  fort.  I  found  hara  an  old  man,  who  thirty  yaar^ba- 
fera  aooonpaniad  Lawia  and  Clarka  aoroaa  tha  oontinant, 
and  had  for  MToral  yaara  paat  takan  up  hia  reaidanoa  bar*. 
Ha  ia  in  tha  amploy  of  tha  flir  oompaay,  and  aoU  aa  iatar- 
pratar  to  tha  naighboring  Indiana. 

On  Babbath  tha  39th,  tha  paopla  of  tha  fort  who  undar. 
■tood  Eogliah,  aaMmblad,  and  wa  worabipad  tl|i  Ood  of 
our  Uvea,  who  had  protaotad  ua  hitharto,  and  fVom  difbr* 
ant  natkoa  had  ooUaotad  ua  in  a  littla  group  in  thia  ra. 
gion  of  tha  world.  Tha  Indiana  too  eaoia  about  ma  and 
axpiaaaad  great  anxiaty  to  ba  Uugfat  dM  ravaalad  will  of 
God.  Thay  endaavorod  to  maka  ma  undaratand  what-thatr 
formar  traditiooaiy  baliaf  and  praotioaa  had  baan,  and  to 
lat  ma  know,  that  what  they  had  laamad  from  ma  waa  ran. 
aaoabla  and  aatiafiMstory  to  tham,  and  that  thay  wiahad  to 
know  all  that  related  to  ao  important  and  momentoua  a  aab- 
jaot.  But  our  medium  of  oommunioatkm  waa  inadaquata 
to  a  All!  diacloaure  of  that  moat  intareating  truth,  that  Ood 
ao  loved  the  world  that  ha  gave  hia  only  Son  to  die  for  its 
redemption. 

Wheiever  I  have  met  with  Um  nativee  of  thia  dblaal  (•• 
gioD  thay  have  invariably,  with  aameotneaa  and  impMtuai- 
ty,aakedthegiitoftbegoapal  (Irom  the  handaofChriatiaiM. 
But  Kbw  little  of  die  foith,  and  bva,  and  liberality  of  tha 


•MMilHHIaMMiMi 


(ith,  lik*  OMBy 
WqiMnt  ooouv* 

divUUd,  M  M 
idry. 
Mr.  MoDomM, 

iMd  1»A  •  fcw 
Hiver;  but  the 
had  tlMei»rg« 
thirty  jTMurjb*- 
I  th«  ooatioMit, 
reaidano*  hart, 
d  aoteas  intafw 

fort  who  undar- 
lad  tin  Ood  of 
tnd  flrom  dUbr* 
oup  in  thia  ra> 
I  about  ma  aad 
•vaaMwill  of 
taod  what-thatr 
id  baan,  and  to 
ini  ma  waa  ran. 
thay  viabad  to 
nnantoua  a  aab- 
iraa  inadaquata 
truth,  that  Gad 
a  to  dia  fer  iia 

'  thia  ^^taat  !«• 
I  and  importuai- 
laofChiiitkuM. 
liberality  of  tba 


ehuroh  ia  invaatad  in  the  moat  proAtaMa  of  all  anterprtwa, 
tha  oonvaraion  of  the  world.  Shoukl  aoma  one  prapoaa  tba 
oooatruMion  of  •  rail  road  (Vom  (he  Atlantic  to  tha  PaoiAo, 
and  demonatrate  the  praotioaMlity  ofthe  maaaura,  andabow 
that  nature  haa  intejtpoaed  no  efleotual  barrier,  and  that  it 
would  ooneentrata  not  only  (he  whole  internal,  bu(  alao  (ba 
China  trade,  and  the  atook  would  praduoa  annually  a  fieb 
diridmid,  how  aoon  wonld  ChrintJanii  fngtga  Ut  h. 

Monday  (he  80th  of  May,  we  oommenoad  our  joumay 
down  tha  Columbia.     The  brigade  having  takeo  all  tlM 
boata  Atom  thia  plaoa  on  their  lata  paaaage  to  Fort  Vanoou* 
ver,  wa  ware  oompelled  (o  take  boraea  for  Okanagan.     I 
ohangad  my  guidea  for  (wo  otben  ;  one  a  Spokain,  and  tiia 
other  a  Palooaa  ;  retaining  my  two  vanfogmm.    Aa  wa  Uh 
Port  Colvile  wa  bad  a  Ana  view  of  Kettle  &lla.     The  Cb. 
lumbia  waa  in  ita  fVeaheo,  and  aa  it  rolled  down  in  a  bcokaa 
oataraot  tha  diaunoe  of  ono  hundred  fiset,  it  waa  a  aab> 
lima  apaotaole.    Hie  whole  aomiery  aa  we  prooaaded  down 
tha  river  waa  marked  by  variety,  wildneaa,  and  romantio 
grandeur,  aa  if  die  hand  of  nature,  in  decking  thaae  remote 
raghma,  had  oonaultod  for  her  own  amuaement  aome  of  bar 
moat  playAil  and  taateAil  fiuioiea.     Th«  mountaina  anmad 
are  oooatruotad  on  a  aoale  of  magnifioenoe,  preaenting  •!• 
moat  all  the  varietiea  of  elevation,  precipice,  and  feieat. 
Thia  ia  tha  country,  which,  byjmore  than  one  ^  my  preda- 
oeaaora  in  travel,  haa  been  celebrated  aa  the  abode  of  wolvaa, 
bean,  and  rattla>anakea,  to  an  extent  that  rend^n  it  almoat 
impenetrable,  by  ordinary  courage ;  but  we  found  no  iodi> 
oationa  of  tha  praaenoa  of  theaa  animala  befora  thia  avoa- 
iog,  whan  the  diatant  barking  of  a  prairie  wolf,  for  oaoe 
intorruptod  tha  onivenal  ailMioa  by  wbiob  we  were  aw- 


tr 


•r 


Hi  lyMutiMi  em  HASBUk 

A<l*r  •  few  hoani'  rid*,  on  <h«  morning  of  Um  tt«l,  «• 
f-enmmA  Iho  Spokoln  rivar  jmt  •hov«  its  cntranoo  into  Um 
Columbia.     Thia  inrn*  vallny  I*  uapnbUi  of  aupportlnf  • 
atioh  mora  nunMroua  population  than  now  obuin  a  lubaial* 
•no*  by  huntinK  and  Ashing.     Tha  Indiana  reaiding  hara 
aibrdad  ua,  vary  ohearAilly,  all  tha  aaaiatanoa  we  naadad  la 
fcrrylng  tha  river.     In  the  n«4ghhorliood  of  thia  plao*  I  di*. 
Oovrred  a  mountain  of  rich  and  vory  beautifiil  aacohariaa 
narble,  aituated  on  tha  aoulh  aide  of  the  Columbia  rivar ; 
■OHM  aae^kna  ara  pure  while,  while  othart  are  baautiAiIljr 
elouded  wi:h  blue  and  brown.     It  aflbrreaoad  fraily  wilk 
■ulphurlo  aoid.     Thia  wilt  in  time  become  vary  valuabia, 
fer  being  upon  navigable  watera,  it  aan  be  tranaportad  into 
varioua  oountriaa.     Several  milea  below  thia  marble  looA* 
tloa,  I  waa  Intereeled  with  the  juxtapoaitJon  of  granit*  wui 
baaalt.     It  waa  on  an  elevated  pieoe  of  land  one  hundrad 
•n]  fifty  feet  above  the  river.     Near  the  river  ihar*  waf« 
large  quanlitiea  of  aolid  granite  in  ita  natural  poaition,  with* 
out  any  appearance  of  having  undergone  an  ignaoua  in- 
fluanoe,  and  near  by  to  the  left  waa  a  atupijndoua  dyka  of 
baaalt  riaing  two  huiiilre<l  feet,  pr(>aenting  the  appaaranoe  oC 
having  been  thrown  up  by  aeveral  auooeaaive  voloanio  erup> 
tkma;   lh«  earth  <m  tha  back  aid*  gradually  riaiog  to  a 
mouotain. 

At  thia  ptao*  wa  left  the  river,  to  aave  travaraiag  a  gnat 
band,  and  took  a  westerly  oourae,  exfeoting  to  reach  h 
again  befora  night.  We  pursued  our  way  over  an  elevatad 
prairie,  deatitute  of  wood  and  water.  It  became  evident 
that  night  wauld  overtake  us  before  we  could  roach  the  rivar, 
unleas  we  ahould  urge  forward  with  all  tha  apeed  that  hu- 
manity for  our  lioraea  would  purmit.  Before  five  o'clock 
we  came  near  the  great  gulf  walled  up  with  baaalt,  which  aa 


imi  Hill  antwlil— aaWM 


itrano*  into  UM 
t  aupportiiHi  • 
btain  •  •ubsitl* 
■  reakling  hart 

•  we  iMMtdwi  hi 
hi«  pUo*  I  di*. 
IfVil  ucoharia* 
blumbi*  river  | 
ini  bMutiAiUy 
Md  freily  wilk 
very  veluabb, 
ireneported  into 

•  marble  looft> 
of  grenite  »a4 

sd  one  hundred 
Iver  ihere  were 
I  poaitkNi,  with. 
Ml  igneoue  tai< 
(indoue  dyke  of 
I  eppeerenoe  of 

•  voloenlo  emp. 
i\y  riaiog  to  ft 

tvereing  •  gntA 
ing  to  reeoh  H 
tver  ftn  elevated 
beoeme  evident 
roeoh  the  river, 
■peed  tliet  hn- 
bre  Ave  o'olook 
bM«lt,  wbiobM 


OtAND  COOUI.  IPf 

we  tuppoeed,  pmbueomMl  ih«  deep^dowing  Columbia.  Our 
next  object  we*  to  find  a  place  whnnn  wn  cnuid  deeoend  to 
ita  ahoree.  After  raiigiiiK  along  two  or  three  milee,  wa 
found  a  i|PMti*nt  by  a  ravine ;  but  to  oiir  disappointment 
dimoverwl  that  it  wna  the  (I rand  Coul<<,  which  wan  un- 
doubtMlly  the  ftirmer  uhannnl  of  the  rivtir.  With  coniii«l«^r. 
able  difficulty  wo  wound  our  way  into  it,  and  found  it  well 
covered  with  graaa,  and  by  e^arohlng,  obtained  a  amall 
aupply  of  watflr.  Thia  quondam  channel  of  the  river  la 
nearly  a  mile  wide,  with  a  levol  bottom,  and  niuddod  with 
laiande.  Ita  aideaare  lined,  aa  the  river  tieoiria  in  many 
plaooa,  with  volcanic  moka,  two  and  three  hundre«l  feet  per. 
pendicular.  Thia  CouU  aeparalea  to  the  led  from  the  prea- 
ent  channel  of  the  G>lumbia,  about  one  hundrrd  milen  bo. 
low  Colvile,  and  ia  about  one  hundred  milee  in  length,  when 
it  again  unitca  with  the  river.  The  volcanic  appearance* 
ara  exhibited  here  aa  in  other  plaoea,  (Vimiahing  evidences 
of  eruptiona  at  dlllerent  periods  of  time.  A  peculiarity  in 
tMa  iaatance  was  a  stratum  of  yellow  earth,  eight  or  tea 
ftat  iA  thiokneaa  between  the  strata  of  basalt.  Thoae  who 
have  travel«d  through  the  whole  length  of  the  Coulj,  rep. 
resent  it  aa  having  the  same  general  leaturee  throughout, 
while  the  whole  distance  of  the  river  around  to  the  placa 
where  it  again  unites,  as  I  know  from  personal  observation, 
haa  not  tb*  peculiarity  of  a  deep  channel,  out  through  tha 
raoka. 

We  left  the  Grand  CouU  early  on  the  morning  of  the  lal 
of  June,  and  with  difficulty  aacended  the  western  bank. 
Balbre  noon  my  guidea  loet  the  way  to  Okanagan,  and  wan* 
dared  fiir  out  upoo  the  wide  prairie  where  there  was  no 
water.  Loeing  my  confidence  in  their-  knowledge  of  tho 
country,  exoept  on  some  frequented  routes,  I  directed  my 


rn^rn 


wm^mmmemmmmmi^ 


J.  I'mi* 


ton  oxakIoav. 

•oane  by  my  ooin|MMi  to  Um  north-wert  for  the  river ;  and 
perceiving  •  mow-topped  mounUin  in  the  dieUnoe,  I  ooa> 
eluded  the  river  muat  lie  between  it  wad  oureelvae,  and 
•oooidingly  made  it  my  landmark.  Pursuing  thia  diree. 
tion  a  few  hours  with  rapid  speed,  we  came  to  a  slope 
which  gradually  narrowed  Into  a  ravine,  and  introduced 
oa  at  length  to  a  spring  of  water.  Our  thirsty  horses  rush- 
ed into  it,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  wfe  could  control  their 
excess  in  drinking.  We  followed  this  ravine,  the  water  of 
which  continually  gained  accessions  until  it  became  • 
large  stream,  with  a  rich  valley  «f  alluvial  bottom,  and 

•  united  its  waters  with  the  Columbia,  a  few  miles  above  Fort 
Okanag^,  the  place  of  our  destination. 

Fort  Okanagan  b  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Co< 
lumbia«  above  the  confluence  of  the  Okanagan  river,  from 
which,  and  from  tiie  Indians  residing  in  iu  vicinity,  the 
fwt  takes  its  name.  It  was  first  built  by  Mr.  David  StUp 
art,  »  partner  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  in  1811. 
Thei«  is  an  open  q>ace  of  oooaiderable  extent  around ;  the 
soil  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  hard  and  gravelly,  but  produ- 
cing grass  to  supply  the  cattle  and  horses  belonging  to  the 
statibik.  A  few  fertile  spote  of  alluvial  soil  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  The  Columbia  does  not  aj^pear  to  have  contin- 
ued  so  long  in  ite  present  channel,  since  leaving  the  Grand 
Coul^  as  to  form  those  extrasive  alluvial  bottoms,  which 
exist  in  many  other  parte  of  ite  course.  After  leaving  the 
i^kein  woods  there  is  very  little  forest  to  supply  tin^r 
fbr  fuel,  fencing  or  building.  They  are  dependent  on  flood- 
wood  which  descends  tho  river  for  their  ordinary  flieU  and 
the  fresheto  generally  furnish  a  lai^  supply.  Not  far  dis- 
tant, at  the  north  there  are  snow-topped  mountains,  yet  the 
country  here  is  not  remarkably  mountainous.   At  this  place 


MMfM 


■MkNMMWMMii 


k 


OKAKAaAN  INDIANa. 


800 


the  river ;  »nd 
iiaUDoe,  I  ooQ> 
ounelvM,  and 
ing  this  direoo 
^me  to  a  slope 
ind  introduced 
ity  horses  rush- 
1  control  their 

e,  (he  water  of 
I  it  became  • 
m\  bottom,  and 
iles  above  Fort 

lide  of  the  Co. 
(an  river,  from 
U  vicinity,  the 
Mr.  David  Stu. 
pany,  in  1811. 
nt  around ;  the 
illy,  but  produ- 
slonging  to  the 
ire  found  in  the 
to  have  contin- 
ving  the  Grand 
bottoms,  which 
Iter  leaving  the 
»  supply  timber 
endent  on  flood' 
Unary  flieUasd 

f.  Not  far  dis- 
untains,  yet  the 
I.   At  this  place 


I  had  an  opportunity  to  see  some  of  the  Okanagan  tribe. 
Their  personal  appearance  is  less  noble  than  the  Spoiceins, 
but  tiiey  are  not  less  peaceable,  friendly  and  honest  in  tbsir 
dispositions.  This  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  the  charge 
of  the  (brt  in  the  absence  of  Capt.  Ogden,  the  superintend* 
ent,  was  committed  temporarily  to  a  Frenchman,  and  sev- 
eral  of  the  Indians.  This  tribe  with  the  Shooehaps  number 
about  two  thousand  persousi  Tlicy  are  much  employed  in 
the  salmon  fisliery,  and  large  quantities  ere  prepared  by 
drjrhjg  for  the  winter's  use.  Their  country  does  not  abound 
in  game,  and  hunting  occupies  but  little  of  their  time.  The 
climate  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  ia 
very  mild  and  salubrious. 

Wishing  to  pursue  my  way  down  the  river,  I  hired  two 
Indians  to  assist  my  two  Frenchmen  in  navigating  a  bateau 
which  we  obtained  at  this  place ;  and  committed  our  honea 
to  my  Indian  guides  to  take  them  across  the  country  to 
Walla  Walla.  My  confidence  in  the  honesty  of  these  men 
was  without  any  suspicion,  and  I  could  irust  them  with  our 
six  horses,  saddles  and  bridles,  to  go  on  any  enterprise  with< 
in  their  capacity  to  accomplish.  They  have  so  much  selfl 
respect,  that  they  would  not  on  any  account  commit  a 
crime^  which  would  expel  them  from  their  people,  induce 
them  to  seek  concealment,  or  abridge  their  liberties  as  free* 
meoi 

We  embarked  in  our  boat,  June  2d,to  perform  a  voyage 

of  fou/' hundred  miles,  with  the  river  in  full  freshet ;  and  ita 

strong  current  increased  by  high  water,  secured  to  us  a  ve^ 

Idcity  beyond  the  ordinary.    We  passed  several  rapids,  and 

dashed  over  the  breaking  surges,  where  the  least  mismaa> 

agement  would  have  caused  inevitable  submersion  without 

any  prospeet  of  escape.     But  my  vogatmirt  showed  bv 

27* 


•mm^immflH^mm 


IRBIFIU  TAJn. 


1 


■"""Hf^mtl^ 


thair  adroitiMM  »t  the  o»r,  Uwt  they  were  upon  their  hrcr- 
ite  element,  and  their  gayety  Mui  eonge  beg*n  to  revive,  en 
being  relieved  ftom  the  rough,  and  to  them  uupleAiiMit  jour* 
ney  on  honebaok,  over  hille  end  down  ravines,  and  through 
forest!.    The  elasticity  of  their  native  oharaoter  was  al- 
most immediately  apparent,  and  we  glided  on  with  celerity, 
making  a  voyage  of  one  hundred  miles  before  it  was  neoee- 
•ary  to  seek  our  safety  for  the  night  on  shore.    The  ooun- 
try  through  which  we  passed  to-day  was  rather  mountain- 
ous.   I  saw  many  locations  of  granite  in  its  natural  slate, 
but  as  we  proceeded,  volcanic  operations  began  to  appear, 
and  the  granite  exhibited  the  e&ots  of  intense  heat,  until 
it  wholly  disappeared,  and  breccia,  amygdaloid,  basalt,  and 
lava  took  its  place.    In  the  afternoon  we  passed  a  perpen- 
dicular section  of  rock,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high  ; 
half  way  to  the  top  of  which,  a  petrified  tree  of  considera- 
ble magnitude  is  suspended.    It  appears  to  be  retained  in  its 
place  by  having  its  roots  inserted  in  the  crevices  of  the  rooks, 
between  the  layers  of  different  eruptkma.    How  it  procured 
its  elevated  situation  is  quite  a  mystery.    It  could  not  have 
vegetated  there,  unless  at  the  time  of  its  growth,  it  was  sup- 
ported by  a  surface  upon  which  to  rise ;  and  taking  the  pres- 
ent oonditiao  of  the  rocks,  it  could  not  be  deposited  there 
by  any  iloods  of  the  river,  and  certainly  it  could  not  in  sudi 
ease,  intertwine  its  roota  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.     Gen- 
dfemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Ck>mpany,  and  others  who  navi- 
gate this  river,  have  amused  themselves  by  shooting  off 
pieces  with  their  rifles,  and  they  assured  me  it  was  wholly 
a  petrifiuition.     Our  encampment  this  evening  was  a  few 
miles  above  the  Long  Rapids,  which  extend  nine  miles. 

On  the  8d,  as  we  approached  the  Long  Rapids  about  fifty 
miles  above  Walla  Walla,  th^  presented  the  appeaianoe  of 


<«i*«Ml|MlMMilli 


JKn 


•mmmmimmmmm 


latf  lAPiM. 


Hi 


on  their  Ikror- 
Ik  to  revive,  on 
ipleAtHuit  jour- 
«,Aiid  througii 
meter  WM  •!• 
I  with  celerity, 
t  it  WM  neoee- 
e.    The  ooua- 
her  mounteiiH 
I  natural  etate, 
gan  to  appear, 
nse  beat,  until 
)id,  basalt,  and 
med  a  perpen- 
ftfty  feet  high ; 
B  of  conaidera* 
I  retained  in  il* 
tea  of  the  rooke, 
[ow  it  procured 
could  not  have 
wth,  it  was  sup- 
taking  the  pree> 
deposited  there 
>uld  not  in  sudi 
B  rocics.    Gen- 
;heni  who  navi- 
by  shooting  off 
9  it  was  wholly 
ning  was  a  few 
nine  miles. 
»pids  about  fifty 
leappeaianoeof 


wavee  rolling  under  a  strong  breeze  of  wind,  and  their  dis- 
tant murmur  broke  upon  the  stillness  of  the  rooming.  To 
pass  them  without  fear,  is  an  undertaking  which  requires 
courage  and  self-posseMiion ;  but  knowing  that  these  inland 
navigators  are  experienced  in  all  the  dangers  of  boating 
excursions,  I  had  but  liule  drawback  upon  the  pleasure  I 
anticipated  in  a  swift  descent  over  them.  With  much  cars 
and  exertion  of  my  men  we  safely  outrode  them,  a  distance 
of  nine  miles,  in  forty  minutes.  It  is  this  variety  of  fiiUs, 
cascades,  and  rapids,  together  with  the  ever-varying  scene- 
ry of  nature'a  wildest  and  grandest  forrr.?,  ihat  keeps  the 
mind  from  wearying,  and  awakens  almost  perpetually  some- 
new  emotions  and  energies,  while  performing  a  voyage  of 
several  hundred  miles  in  open  bateaux  or  light  canoes.  Not 
unfrequently  in  the  stillness  and  solitude  of  the  river,  when 
it  assumed  its  more  placid  featuras,  such  a  sense  of  security 
is  enjoyed,  that  a  resort  to  books,  to  aseist  in  a  profitable 
disposition  of  time,  is  pleasant. 

My  voyagewa  called  my  attention  to  a  red  lurid  aspect 
of  the  atmosphere  in  the  south,  and  said  we  should  have  a 
strcHig  wind  from  that  quarter.  Their  prt^ostication  was 
soon  realized.  The  gale  did  not  last  long,  and  the  only 
remarkable  feature  was,  that  when  it  subuded,  it  was  al- 
most instantaneously. 

Through  the  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles,  which' 
we  passed  to-day,  the  country  is  level  and  destitute  of  wood. 
I  observed  a  bank  of  clay  in  layers  of  diversified  struc- 
ture, such  as  I  have  often  noticed.  The  different  sections 
were  of  various  colors ;  some  dusky  red,  some  yellow,  and 
blue,  and  others  white,  making  an  upright  elevation  of  one 
hundred  feet  or  more. 

Salmon  are  ascending  the  river  in  great  numbers,  and 


mil    II  Mill  wtftrtft^rtUm 


'u'fimii^ 


ABSITAL  AT  WAl&A  WALI.A. 

groupa  of  IndiaiM  are  scattered  olong  pursuing  the  employ- 
aient  of  catching  them.  Wherever  we  passed  them,  they 
oame  off  in  their  canoes,  bringing  salmor  to  sell,  some  of 
which  were  roasted  in  the  best  manner,  and  served  up  on 
broad  pieces  of  bark,  which  answered  a  good  purpose  in 
the  absence  of  plates ;  and  often  large  leaves  of  plants  were 
spread  neatly  upon  the  bark.  Upon  these  we  dined,  with- 
out bread,  vegetables,  or  salt.  My  vogagewa  found  suffi- 
cient employment  in  the  gratification  of  their  appetites,  to 
Interrupt  for  a  whilo  their  anecdote  and  song.  We  arrived 
at  Walla  Walla  at  evening,  just  in  season  to  iind  shelter 
ftom  one  of  the  most  violent  thunder  storms,  accompanied 
with  wind,  which  I  have  witnessed  in  this  country.  Such, 
aloraw  are  of  rare  ooourrenoe  west  of  the  mountains. 


nJiiiiM 


""""•piai 


tf^ 


SHAU,  ISSIJUU. 


Ml 


ig  the  employ* 
led  them,  they 
>  sell,  some  of 
■erved  up  on 
od  purpoee  in 
of  planta  were 
re  dined,  with- 
ra  found  sufii- 
ir  appetites,  to 
We  arrived 
to  find  shelter 
,  accompanied 
luntry.  Such, 
tuntaina. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A  rammaijr  of  IJm  Indians  of  tho  Uppw  oowatry-  -asiss  «f  Um  trUtsst 
thair  looations  and  number*— lesvo  Walls  Walla  fltr  Fort  Vsaooa. 
TSti—swift  paarage  down  the  river — run  the  Falls — Caeosdss— daa. 
gerous  flddy— arrire  at  VanoouTer — staam-boat  exoordon. 

HATiMft  traveled  over  the  most  important  parta  of  th« 
upper  country,  and  collected  the  fkots  of  ita  phydotl  eondi* 
tion,  together  with  the  location,  character,  and  oooditioa 
of  the  nKMt  nuineroua  tribea  of  Indiana ;  befer*  laavtag 
this  section  of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rooky  Mountaiii% 
it  may  be  proper  to  give  a  connected  aununary  of  th«M  p«r> 
ticulara.  On  the  south  part  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  ad. 
joining  Upper  California,  are  located  the  ShoahoiMt  or 
Snake  Indians.  I  was  not  able  to  gain  knowledga  of  their 
definite  numbers,  but  the  general  eatiroate  ia  that  thay  ara 
more  than  ten  thousand.  Their  country  is  decidedly  tha 
raoM  barren,  west  of  the  mountains ;  most  parts  being  oov* 
ered  with  scoria  and  other  volcanic  productions.  Thaaa 
Indiana  are  poor,  and  as  indicative  of  their  oooditioa  and 
their  resources,  they  are  called  Snake  IndiaLj,  and  Root 
diggers.  Some  of  them  go  to  the  mountains  and  hunt  buf* 
fklo,  and  they  very  generally  resort  to  the  river  in  the  sat> 
son  of  fishing.  They  have  a  tolorable  supply  of  bona*. 
When  they  go  to  Rendezvous  they  make  a  great  disfplayi 
advandog  on  horseback,  dressed  in  their  most  fluAtastte 
manner,  ezhihItiDg  all  their  omamenta  of  faalhera,  Uadii 
wolf>tailS|  taath  and  daws  of  animals,  arranged  aooordiag 


Ik 


tmi'imrmm  fmmtmmimmMim 


i. 


tM 


^Aiti— simiiirr  tiittfl. 


•0  th«ir  notions  of  good  t«Me.  The  warrlon  are  armed, 
hideoualy  painted,  and  thoau  wlio  have  been  wounded  in  bat- 
tle are  very  fond  of  showing  their  soars.  After  coursing 
around  and  through  the  cynp  of  Rendezvous  for  some  time, 
they  dismount  and  go  through  the  ceremony  of  shaking 
hands.  I  had  also  an  opportunity  of  seeing  many  of  these 
and  the  Uuws  at  Rendezvous.  The  country  of  the  Uuws 
is  situated  to  the  cast  and  south-east  of  the  Sboshones, 
about  the  Salt  Lalce  and  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Colora- 
do river,  which  empties  into  the  gulf  of  California.  They 
number  nearly  four  thousand  persons,  and  appear  to  be  a 
.  mild  and  peaceable  people,  honest,  kind,  and  hoapitable  to 
strangers,  and  afTeotionato  among  themselves.  They  live 
by  hunting,  Ashing,  and  gathering  roots  and  berries.  Their 
dress  is  plain,  and  their  manners  are  unassuming.  Their 
country  being  in  latitude  about  41",  has  a  fine  climate,  and 
good  soil. 

Proceeding  north,  we  come  to  the  oouniry  of  the  Ne« 
Perots,  which  has  many  fertile  parU  adapted  to  tillage,  and 
ia  throughout  a  fine  grazing  country.  They  number  about 
two  thousand  five  hundred ;  but  they  have  already  been 
often  mentioned. 

The  Cayuses  are  situated  to  the  west  of  the  Nez  Pero^ 
and  very  much  resemble  them  in  person,  (Iress,  habits,  and 
morals.  They  are  equally  peaceable,  honest,  and  hospita. 
ble  to  strangers.  They  number  more  than  two  thousand 
persons.  Their  wealth  consist  in  horses,  which  are  unusu- 
ally fine  and  numerous ;  it  being  no  uncommon  thing  for 
one  man  to  own  several  hundred.  Their  country,  especial- 
ly that  about  the  Grand  Round,  is  uncommonly  fertile,  pro- 
ducing sponuneously  cammas  in  great  abundance,  upon 
which,  with  fish  and  aome  game,  they  principally  aubaist. 


HMiiiiiiiiii 


^■viMimNlpi 


>n  are  armed, 
rounded  in  bat- 
After  coursing 
I  for  some  time, 
my  of  shaking 

many  of  these 
y  of  the  Utawa 
the  Shoshones, 
I  of  the  Colora- 
ifornia.     They 

appear  to  be  a 
d  hoapitable  to 
es.  They  live 
tierries.  Their 
uming.  Their 
ine  climate,  and 

:ry  of  the  Net 
d  to  tillage,  aad 
y  number  about 
9  already  been 

ht  Nee  Pero6^ 
■ess,  habits,  and 
»st,  and  hoepita- 
I  two  thousand 
hich  are  unusu- 
nmon  thing  for 
tuntry,  especial- 
>nly  fertile,  pro- 
bundanoe,  upon 
toipally  aubaiat. 


1l»U3<»— MmMMT  Taiaai.  M 

They  express  the  same  anxiety  to  be  instruoted  as  the  Nea 
Percys  and  Flatheads. 

The  Wallii  Walla  Indians  inhabit  the  country  about  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  and  range  some  disUnoe  below, 
along  the  Columbia  river.  The  number  of  persons  in  thia 
tribe  is  about  five  hundred.  In  their  oharaoter,  employ, 
menta,  and  moral  habits,  they  do  not  materially  differ  from 
the  last  named  tribes. 

The  Palooee  tribe  are  properly  a  part  of  the  Nea  Pero^ 
and  in  all  respects  are  lilte  them.  Their  residence  is  along 
the  Nea  Pero<5  river  and  up  the  Pavilion.  They  number 
about  three  hundred.  The  four  last  named  tribas  speak  tha 
same  language  with  a  little  dialectical  difierenoe. 

North-east  of  the  Palooses  are  the  Spokein  nation.  Thay 
number  about  eight  hundred  persons,  besides  some  small 
tribes  adjoining  them  who  might  be  counted  a  part  of  their 
nation.  I  have  so  fully  described  them  that  it  is  unneoes* 
sary  to  enlaree  upon  their  character.  Their  country  ia 
much  diversified  with  n  un'ains  and  valleys,  prairie  and 
woods,  and  a  large  part  is  of  primitive  formation,  and  soma 
parta  are  very  fertile.  They  denominate  themselves  the 
children  of  the  sun,  which  in  their  language  is  Spokem. 
Their  main  dependence  for  subsistence  is  upon  fishing  and 
hunting,  together  with  gathering  roots  and  berries.  I  have 
stated  that  a  commencement  ia  made  In  agriculture,  whioll 
it  is  to  bo  hoped  will  be  generally  adopted,  so  that  their  pres. 
ent  precarious  mode  of  living  may  give  placo  to  that  which 
will  be  subsUntial.  They  have  many  horses,  but  not  so 
numerous  as  their  neighbors  farther  south. 

Bast  of  these  are  the  Coaur  d'Alene  Indians,  whoae  num. 
bers  are  about  seven  hundred,  and  who  are  characterised 
by  civility,  honesty,  and  kindness.    Their  country  ia  mora 


pmv« 


i^*u  ihm  that  of  the  SpokeUu,  and  nually,  If  ^  ^^' 
a^ptod  to  agriouUure. 

The  country  of  the  FUthetd.  is  sUll  IWrther  wiMmd 
.outh-oMl,  Md  extend,  to  the  Rocky  Mountain..     They 
•re  a  very  i»te««ting  tribe  ;  dignified  in  their  per«H».  no- 
Me,  frwik,  »ad  generou.  in  their  diupcitione,  and  hare  el- 
way.  .hown  e  firm  attachment  to  white  men.    They  num- 
ber  ebout  eight  hundred  pereon.,  knd  U«  •  wandering  life. 
For  wbdMence  they  follow  the  bullklo  upon  the  he«l  wa- 
ter, of  Clarke  end  Salmon  river.,  and  often  pa«  overto  the 
heMl  water,  of  the  Miiwuri.    They  have  beoome  a  wnall 
.  tribe  by  oon.»ant  war.  with  the  Blackfeet  Indian.,  though 
they  then-eWe.  are  not  of  a  ferociou.  or  hbrtlle  diepomtloii. 
Being  averae  to  war,  they  wiah  to  .ettle  upon  their  land., 
and  are  only  waiting  to  be  Inrtructed  in  the  art.  of  civiM- 
aalkm,  and  in  Chrirtianity.  ,     ,  u    i— 

Their  country  i.  mountoinou.,  but  tatenwotod  with  piea- 
mni,  fertile  valley.,  large  portion,  of  which  are  prairi*. 
The  mountain,  are  cold,  but  in  the  valley,  the  climate  i. 

wild.  ,        VL.U 

An  anecdote  wa.  related  by  a  ohl..f  of  thi.  nation,  wMeh 

iUuatimte.  their  naUve  character,  and  the  propen«ty  of  In- 
dian,  to  imitation.  He  Mid  the  finrt  white  men  he  «w, 
wa.  when  he  was  young.  It  wa.  «immer.  He  Miid. 
..  Tbm.  are  a  new  people,  they  look  cold,  thdr  fcce.  «e 
white  and  red ;  go  make  a  large  fire,  and  I  wHl  aak  them 
to  come  and  warm  them."  In  a  short  time  hi.  people  had 
made  a  fire,  and  brought  new  buffalo  robe..  The  wWte 
men  came  into  hi.  lodge,  and  he  wrapH  them  In  the  robea 
and  «ated  them  by  thtf  fire  that  they  might  be  warm. 
The  robe,  slipped  off;  he  replaced  them^S««  '^^ 
men  made  signs  to  «ooke  their  pipe.     Tl«  chief  UioMjfct 


f,  if  MM  Wtter 

rther  Mkrt  wid 
nUiiw.     Thty 
»ir  pertoiM,  ao- 
B,  and  h»v«  tl- 
1.    They  num- 
iraiMiering  life. 
I  th«  heftd  wik- 
pMsovertotb* 
doome  •  wimII 
Indians,  though 
lUle  dispomtkn. 
on  their  luidi, 
)  arte  of  eiTiU- 

sotod  with  pk»- 
ioh  are  prairl*. 
Btha  olimate  ia 

is  nation,  whieh 
ropensity  of  In- 
>e  men  he  saw, 
ner.  He  said, 
,  thdr  feces  are 
I  wUl  ask  them 
9  his  people  had 
les.  The  while 
hero  In  the  rabee 
light  be  warm. 
SoMi  the  whits 
M  ohief  thoa^ 


m-fm 


■Mi 


rKvuM—mtnwkwr 


«lf 


they  asked  for  feod,  and  btooght  ibem  meat.  The  white 
mea  gave  him  the  pipe,  and  he  and  hie  people  smoked, 
"  aad  after  this  they  loved  smoke,  and  they  loved  the  white 
men,  and  said  they  were  good." 

The  Ponderae  are  so  like  llie  Platheada  in  penon,  raa». 
Iters,  aad  oharaeter,  that  a  partioalar  description  of  them 
may  be  passwl  orsr  They  number  about  two  thousand 
two  hundred,  and  live  on  the  north  of  Clarke's  river,  aad 
on  a  lake  which  takes  ito  name  tmm  the  tribe.  TWr 
iwuntry  has  many  fertile  parts,  and  woulc^  soon  be  put  as. 
der  cultivation,  if  they  could  obtain  inatruotom  to  leaoh 
them  agriculture  and  to  impart  to  them  a  kaowledge  of  thoea 
things  which  are  neeeesary  le  constitute  a  happy  and  piw 
peraos  community.  Their  language  is  the  same  m  the 
Spokeine' aad  Platheada'.  The  Coctaaies  inhabit  a  se«tie» 
of  country  to  the  north  of  the  Ponderae  aloag  JrOillivn^e 
river,  and  are  represented  as  an  unoonmionly  InienNdi^ 
people.  They  speak  a  language  distinct  ftma  all  the  tribe* 
about  them,  open  aad  aooorous,  and  fee*  feoas  guttetato^ 
whksh  are  oomnMo  in  the  language  ofthe  sareoundlagtiibea. 
They  are  neat  ia  their  persons  aad  lodges,  oaadid  and  hen* 
eel,  aad  kiad  to  each  other.  I  itttnld  nnt  aeeertaia  their  nimn 
bers,  but  probably  they  are  not  over  a  tboiMMi. 

There  ars  eeveral  other  tribea  of  Indiaoeb  whoae  oodntriee 
are  ^tuated  upoa  the  waters  of  the  BOTth-east  bvaneh  of  tlw 
Colunbia  rivar,  resembUag  eaeh  other  so  aeariy  !■  their 
<iaaloaH,  nwrala,  maaaen,  and  mode  of  living,  that  it  i»aa. 
aaoaaaaiy  to  go  into  a  s^ftarate  and  partieular  deeoriptioil 
of  each.  I  will  meatioa  the  names,  loeatkwe,  and  aumbev 
of  aoaw  of  the  principal  tribes.  Noith  of  theCootaalenaM 
the  Carriers,  wliioae  anmber  is  eelfanated  (o  be  Ibar  theoaaadt 
Saalli  of  theee  an  the  Lake  Indiane,  so  named  Aom  their 


wmmmmim 


iimimi*" 


MMOEMO  nui  UVM* 

piM*  of  UMidfliMM.  wWoh  i«  •boul  ib«  Arrow  Ukm.    TUy 
»ra  about  five  hundred  in  numlMr.    At  tli*  eouth,  wid  tboMl 
Colvilo,  are  »h«  Kettle  Fell*  Indiwie,  who  number  Ave  hun- 
dred  end  eixty.     Weet  of  ttiuw  are  the  Sinp»u6lieh.  ome 
thoueand  in  number  ;  and  bilow  theae  are  the  SJwoehapa, 
having  a  population  of  five  hundred  and  eeveoty-ftv*.     At 
tha  wert  and  north-weet,  next  in  ordor  arr  the  Okanagana, 
numbering  one  thoueand  and  fifty .    To  the  north  and  west  are 
•everal  tribee,  about  whom  1  oUainrd  no  deAoite  Inform*- 
tioa-    Between  Okana«an  and  the  Long  Rapida  aro  detaoh- 
maotaof  Ibdiana,  wlio  appear  poor,  and  wanting  in  that  man- 
ly  and  aoUve  apirit,  which  charaotoriaea  the  trib*»  above 
'  nameil.     South  of  the  Long  R«pid»:  to  tlie  eonflurnoa  of 
Lewla'  river  with  'he  Columbia,  are  tlie  Yookoomana,  o 
iDora  sotive  peoplci  oumberiog  about  aeven  hundred.    Thri 
whola  number  of  iJie  above  nanwl  Indiana  i«  thirty.two 
thouaand  five  hundred  aiul  eighty-five.     Thia  \»  pr«»b«Wy  a 
kw  ««tlmat«,  and  in  the  number,  the  FaUa  Mid  La  Dallaa 
bdiaoa  are  not  inotuded,  nor  many  other  numoroua  tribea 
fwidiog  at  the  north  and  aouth  of  the  PaUu  of  the  Colum- 
bia, whoee  numbers,  I  could  not  with  oerUinty  aacertain. 
Wh  might  more  thaw  douijle  U>L<  number,  and  probably  atiU 
ooro*  bolow  ihe  population  of  the  upper  country.  ' 

The  Indiana  to  whom  our  horaea  were  entruitfid,  oame 
in  aafoly,  aa  I  expected.  After  resting  on  tlie  Sabbath, 
ire  J«newed,  on  Monday  the  0th,  our  voyage  down  the 
river,  htving  Fort  Vancouver  for  our  next  deatinatkw. 
We  exchanged  the  bateau  for  a  large  canoe,  retainiot 
tk*  men  who  attended  me  fron  Okanagan.  Asaiated  by 
tha  high  water,  we  made  rapid  progreaa 
f  ftamoon,  when  a  strong  head  wind 
to  tba  land  tot  the  remainder  of 


id  ua  to  tak* 
day,  having  bom 


UkM.  TIm7 
mth,  mm!  •bom 
mber  live  huA- 
ri()au«^liah.  oiM 
the  Stiooiluipa, 
'enty-ftv«.  At 
h«  OkanagWM, 
lh  RDii  west  an 
ifloite  InfumMI* 

ng  in  tlmt  mui- 
ir  trihtu  abova 
t  oonfluriKW  of 
ITookoomanai  e 
humlred.  Thri 
tn  t«  thirty'two 
JB  i«  pnib«Uly  • 
tkod  L«  D»ll«i 
lUmorDU*  tribe* 
B  of  th«  Coluin- 
uinty  aKertttin. 
kd  probftbljr  lOU 

eatrutted,  omim 
m  tiie  S»bb«tb, 
yag«  down  tho 
Bxt  destinatkw. 
3Miae,  retainiod 
n.  AhusUmI  by 
ntil  three  in  the 
illed  ue  to  t«k* 
ly,  having  b<»* 


Sl'!f   TVS   fillitS  or  TSB   G<}L!<!aS!i.  flf 

•e«enty-llv«  milr«.  The  liwiiene  m  umiai  aeme  to  ut  ia 
their  rriendly  mannfir,  otAring  ua  Mimon,  and  atking  for 
tobacco,  which  they  ecteem  more  highly  than  either  gold 
or  aiWor.  They  Save  been  aoountom^ti  to  IrafA')  in  thia 
oonviTiodity,  until  they  expeiA  it  of  every  pawing  traveler. 

The  momin  {  of  the  Tlh  waa  more  oalm,  and  we  got  un- 
der way  at  an  early  hour,  but  with  (he  riaing  day  the  wind 
again  inoroaaed  tit  auch  a  dogrcf^,  that  we  were  obliged  tn 
ntapend  our  voyage.  After  a  ittrenuoua  endeavor  to  e<l^«t 
a  landing  on  the  north,  we  were  at  length,  without  the  powar 
of  oontroiling  our  oanne,  and  in  tnuoh  danger,  driven  aoroai 
to  the  opposite  ahore,  where  wn  auooecded  in  landing,  and 
here  for  the  flrtt  tima  in  all  my  travela,  I  found  it  impoaei- 
ble  to  pitoh  my  tent,  auch  being  the  atrfngth  of  the  wind, 
that  it  would  have  been  oarrietl  away.  The  canoe  waa 
drAwn  upon  the  ahoro,  and  wrapping  myaelf  in  my  blank- 
ota  and  bufTalo  robea,  I  laid  me  down  in  safety  by  the  aide 
of  tlie^aiioe.  We  had  hf<re,  aa  at  all  our  other  landing 
pUoee,  tike  usual  friendly  viait  from  the  neighboring  Indiana. 

The  following  day  we  were  able  to  reaumo  our  journey, 
and  paMcd  the  rapid*,  which  in  the  tempest  of  yesterday 
looked  so  forbidding.  A  htlle  oautiod  on  the  part  of  my 
Experienced  Prenehnnen  in  regard  to  the  numemua  iaiande 
and  eddiea,  enabled  um  to  effect  the  paasago  \u  perfect  safety. 
In  A  abort  time  we  approached  the  /alia  O'*  the  Columbia, 
which,  in  low  water,  are  twenty  foet  perpendicular,  follow- 
<^  by  raging  rmpidH  below.  Bousheuu,  my  steersman,  pro. 
poaed  to  run  the  fhlla,  saying  that  there  was  no  danger  In 
full  freshet,  and  that  it  would  aavo  a  portage.  We  were 
then  passing  a  section  of  the  river  where  the  banks  were 
walled  up  with  basalt ,  and  while  I  waa  revolving  in  my 
mfaid  the  ohanoes  of  safety,  I  had  concluded,  that  when 


I«ill« 


■MM* 


mm" 


MO  Ai 

w  akoui4  oonM  Is  iIm  fMat  kMiii  ■bovt  Um  lilla,  1  wo«l4 
te  Ml  «n  ■bora  ;  but  whan  »•  oamo  ic  Um  Uiaio,  tba  w»(«r 
•f  Um  rivar,  rualiiBfi  flmm  the  mural  aiionia,  forniad  LmpMi- 
Abla  brMJuini  on  Um  riKbl  »iMi  tm  tbe  left,  aiuJ  oowurd 
«•  iBuat  go,  Utt  ooiwnquviKMM  ba  what  Uwy  would.  Wa 
kipl  Mar  Um  middla  of  iIm  Hvar,  whioh  wm  fraa  from 
bnwkani,  Ihougb  not  fVom  high  Mirgea.  Hoon,  with  am*. 
sing  valO(!lt)r,  wa  wara  ovar  tha  i^alaraot  oftha  mighty  »«• 
tan,  and  mada  our  way  into  a  hay  at  Um  hoati  of  th«  Aral 
portaga  of  the  La  Uailva.  Tba  aocumulaUon  of  water  front 
UMaa  atupeiuloua  mouolaina  above,  waa  ao  great,  that  the 
aarrow  obanael  of  the  La  Dallaa,  studded  with  baaallie 
talaada,  ao  obatruoted  the  paaaage  of  the  river,  UMt  Um  falia 
«'•!•  almoet  loat  in  the  depth. 

fluok  ware  the  ediiea  aad  aurgiog  of  the  waUr  among 
Ae  rooky  ielanda  in  Um  narrow  broken  channel  of  the  La 
Dallee,  that  we  had  to  maku  three  portagee.  Our  canoe 
was  «o  laige  Utat  twenty  Itodiana  wpi«  not  too  many  to 
oury  it  aalely.  Their  mode  of  carrying  ia  to  invert  it  upon 
UMir  heada  aiMi  abouldere,  and  then  it  ia  with  diffioulty  and 
dnitger  Uiat  Uuty  paaa  the  ateep  and  rooky  ravinea.  Whan 
we  oaBM  to  Um  ]aM  portage,  the  Indiana  were  not  wUlii^ 
10  take  liotd  again  unleaa  «e  would  pay  them  ia  powd«r 
and  balla ;  and  although  their  damanda  were  reaaooaUe, 
yel  ray  atoraa  were  not  adequate  to  oioet  them,  and  they 
would  not  perform  the  labor  wiUiout  Uia  required  articlee.  I 
aitgaged  Sopelay,  and  another  (afluenUal  obieC  to  indooe. 
Ihalr  nan  to  parfbm  Um  labor  of  making  UUa  laM  portafa, 
aod  pramiaed  Utat  I  woulii  aeod  them  the  demand  ftxan 
Fort  Vaaoouver,  and  for  their  leourity  I  would  give  them  a 
ialUag  paper.  They  atated  to  UMir  people  my  propoaal,  and 
warn  about  to  jtiooeed,  when  TiUi!,  the  &m  chief,  «ho  h»d 


iiHMiM*I.M<Miaili«bi<iia.ll|ii 


Jt=. 


POVVPI 


SAKASSirrs  t;»;si.F?>ot. 


HI 


k*  fclk  I  would 
iMwiii,  tha  w»t«r 
,  fonuMl  LmpMi- 
>ft,  aiid  oowutl 
njr  would.  W« 
WMi  frM  from 
"kxin,  witli  muM- 
'ihm  mighty  w«- 
U«mA  of  Uifl  Am 
on  of  water  from 
>  gnwt,  timt  Um> 
pd  with  bMcltiv 
•r,  that  lh«  AtlU 

!•  watar  among 
uinel  of  th«  La 
M.  Our  canoe 
lot  too  many  to 
to  invert  it  upon 
th  diffiouhy  and 
avinm.  Wh«n 
rmn  not  willii^ 
ham  in  powder 
•n  raaaooaUe, 
them,  and  they 
irad  artiolct.  I 
ohieC  to  indooe, 
bia  laet  portift, 
e  demwid  Awn 
Hid  give  them  « 
ny  propoaftl,  *nd 
I  chief,  «ho  Imk 


bsoomfl  AimiUar  with  an  Amorinan  trader,  laiighH  at  th«4r 
credulity.  Nopolay,  howAvnr,  atalml  lo  thfl  p«<iple,  ihat  he 
had  aeen  mm  at  the  fort,  and  that  he  h(*ani  rrni  inaoh  the  In- 
dlana  goorl  thing*,  and  did  not  heli<«VA  I  would  d«!ii«>Ivfl  them. 
Up  prtivailcil,  and  the  nirn  tnolc  hold  of  llm  work  ;  and  in 
fiiur  hnum  from  pawdngthii  Aillawewen>  b«>yonii  thn  raging 
water,  where)  we  made  onr  mofninti;  rnpaHt  upon  very  Ane 
•almon. 

Onr  paaeagfl  during  the  remaindtr  of  the  day  waa  plM*> 
ant ;  we  p«MedC.:pe  Horn  without  difnoutty,  and  landed  for 
the  night  twelve  milee  ahove  thn  Cattoadpa.  In  thin  high 
■late  of  the  water,  very  few  of  the  tree*  of  tho  submerged 
forcat  we  rn  to  be  necn. 

On  the  rnorninf?  <r  tho  0th,  wo  pamM>d  the  Caacadea  by 
hiring  Indiana  to  eordrlle  the  canoe  down  them,  oxoluaive  of 
one  abort  portage,  the  diiitanoe  of  two  miles  to  the  grMt 
biaain,  or  rather  the  grrat  whirlpool  below.  This  labor  la 
attended  with  aome  danger,  and  caaca,  thou^^h  not  numeroua, 
have  occurred  of  the  Iota  of  Uvea  un<l  property.  Aa  I  walk- 
ed along  the  shorea,  and  over  preoipieon,  I  aaw  the  wreoka 
of  aeveral  canoea  and  bateaux  strewed  upon  the  rockii.  We 
emb«rke'^  upon  thte  great  basin,  at  the  Idwer  part  of  which 
we  pMaed  into  a  rapid,  where  the  main  current  took  a  dia- 
gonal coune  from  the  north  towards  the  south  shore.  On 
both  aidea  of  thia  current  there  were  heavy  breakers,  and  aa 
the  only  covirae  of  safety,  wo  took  the  middle.  We  had  not 
proceeded  far  before  a  large  whirlpool,  with  a  deep,  tl.vour- 
iiiQ  vorteic,  formed  altnost  directly  before  us,  and  aa  we  war* 
going  forward  very  awlAly,  it  aremed  impoaaible  to  avoid  ita 
ciroling  current.  I  said  to  my  steersman,  bear  a  little  to 
the  right.  "  O  don't  speak  here,"  was  his  jwply.  Aa  wa 
•pproMhed  tha  vortai,  it  filled  after  the  manner  of  smaller 


i«»liM>i|il  lliiini    »-«»» 


-MMgMJMa 


>^im)m>mm^e0mmi0mm'mmrtmpi.ULmvim'M$[  a  jlh  immnagmtmi!!^ 


A   nBLO  FOB  RATtnLiUm^ 


•44iM,  and  we  looii  folt  Um  influenoe  of  iti  waten  rolling 
W  from  the  oeutre,  and  all  our  atrengUi  was  required  to 
naiBt  them,  leat  we  ahould  be  thrown  upon  the  breakere. 
We  paseed  with  the  rapidity  of  the  wind,  and  ki  a  ahort  tioM 
were  upon  the  smooth  Burfaoe  of  the  tide  waten  below. 

The  Mnaations  excited  in  deaoending  these  Cascades  are 
of  tftat  peculiar  character,  which  are  best  understood  by  ex- 
perienoe.  The  sensation  of  fear  is  no  sooner  ai^akeDed  than 
it  subsides  before  the  power  and  magnificence  of  the  rolling 
•UTges^  the  droling  vortices,  and  the  roaring  breakers.  Let 
those  whose  dormant  energies,  either  of  body  or  mind,  need 
arousing,  try  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia  in  high  water, 
and  their  powers  will  be  invigorated  ibr  almost  any  fliture 
enterprise.  Such  is  the  fascinating  power,  I  had  almost  said 
magio  of  these  scenes,  that  those  who  are  accustomed  to  be 
emplbyed  upon  these  waters,  though  &r  away  from  home 
and  kindred,  beoome  attached  to  this  mode  of  life,  and  are 
reluctant  to  abandon  it  for  any  other.  Each  time  the  soene- 
ly  of  theao  interesting  CaMsadea  is  beheld,  new  wonders 
onfold  themselves.  Niagara  itself  if  we  except  its  unbn^en 
fall  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  cannot  bear  a  comparison 
with  the  superior  style  of  nature's  wnrks  hero.  Nwr  are 
diese  things  oraated  merely  to  attract  our  momentary  admi  > 
tKlion.  Science  in  very  many  of  its  departments,  may  find 
sabfaots  for  invesUgation. 

While  the  omitiiologist  listens  to  th4  songsters  of  the  for- 
ests, and  in  these  enchanting  solitudes  follows  them  with  bis 
eye, asthey dart  from  bough  to  bough ;  he  ngaide  wUb aA- 
miration  the  noblJB  and  raajestio  white  headed  eagle,  as  lie 
takes  his  fitvorite  peroh  upon  the  loftieat  heights  of  aoine 
needk-pointed  ruok,or  the  summit  of  some  leafless  tree,  or 
as  he  dans  fromthenoe  upon  hfarprey ;  or  his  attention  may 


i-.rf^^^K^SBif 


mmmmmmmmm 


i.V'#fll,*i!<lt''-*'|->' 


mmmmm 


waten  rolling 
M  required  to 

the  brealMrs* 
inaahorttioM 
en  below. 

OMoadea  avii 
lerttood  by  ex* 
iwakeced  tbaa 
I  of  the  rolling 
reakera.     Let 

or  mind,  need 
ia  high  water, 
lOBtany  flitura 
Ad  almost  aaid 
juatomed  to  be 
ay  from  home 
r  life,  and  are 
lime  the  aoeiM* 

new  wondara 
pt  ita  uobrdten 
ra  oompariaon 
ere.  Nwr  are 
mentavyadmi' 
lents,  may  find 

it^niofthafor- 
•  them  with  bia 
>gardaw^a4> 
Ml  eagle,  aaJie 
eighta  of  aome 
teafleaa  trae,  or 
>attentiMai»y 


A  raUJ)  fOft  NATinULUTS. 


898 


be  arrested  by  the  daring  fiah-hawk  in  hia  rapid  deaoent  up- 
on the  finny  tribe.  An  amusing  ooourrenca  totJc  place  in 
my  riew.  A  fiahJiawk  seised  upon  a  fish  of  auch  magni- 
tude, that  the  contest  ibr  a  long  time  was  doubtfbl,  as  the 
splashing  water  indicated,  which  should  exchange  its  native 
element.  The  reaiatanoe  waa  so  great,  that  a  disengage- 
ment was  deemed  the  best  policy. 

Here  alaothe  botanist,  while  he  forbears  to  aaoend  the 
lofty  mountains,  which  for  him  present  an  aspect  of  too 
much  dreariness,  may  retire  into  the  mtrrow  receding  ral< 
leys,  or  wind  his  way  over  sunny  hilia'in  search  of  new 
genera  of  planta,  or  at  leaat  new  species,  with  which  to  im- 
mortalizA  his  naane,  and  add  to  the  storea  of  his  fevoiita 
3cienoe. 

The  geologist,  while  he  admires  the  stupendous  monu- 
OMOts  of  voloanlo  operations  befiwe  him,  may  alao  find 
much  to  intereat  him  in  examining  more  minute  formationa. 
Along  the  mmed  shores  are  scattered  specimens  of  oaloa' 
deny,  jasper,  agate,  and  cornelian.    He  may  examine  the 
eellulea  of  the  inunenae  maaaes  of  amygdaloid  ;  the  ooluaa- 
nar  basalt«nd  the  mountains  shooting  up  th«r  denticulated 
ibrtat  and  ne«dla>pointa.    Hia  atlentioB  will  be  dnrwn  to  the 
asaminationof  the  laiw,  breooia,  and  trachyte ;  and  he  will 
be  iiotansted  in  finding  many  dendrtditea.    When  he  looks 
at  die  deep  ehannel  through  which  the  Columbia  river  finds 
itnonwaid  way  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  if  he  doubto  the  agen- 
«if  of  <3od  in  formi%the  oouiaea  of  the  rivers,  he  may  in* 
(tolga  ya  idwginatioo  in  computing  how  long  it  haa  taken 
this  river  to  wear  down  the  immensely  hard  basalt  a  thoii- 
fnnd  feet;  and  havhig  McerUined  how  long  it  takaa  to 
wear  any  given  depth,  he  may  then  make  his  mathemaycal 
oonoluaiaiaihowlwVthaniooeaBjMabeengwngon.   Bui  if 


\      V 


H>i|J|i-.l»iy 


•^m^ 


^n  AIRITAL  AT  TBB  fOtT. 

he  is  •  Chriatiui  phila«oph«',  whiie  he  admits  woond  oaoi. 
es,  ho  may  look  up  to  the  firat  gr«at  CauM,  and  admin  and 
•dore ;  and  not  regarding  baseless  theories,  may  exclaim. 
"  How  wonderftil  are  thy  works,  in  wisdom  hast  thou  made 
them  all." 

'i'As  we  passed  out  of  the  mountain  oountrfibout  the  Cas- 
oades,  we  found  the  wide  valley  below  so  inundated,  as  t© 
IMCesent  the  appearance  of  en  inland  sea.  I  arrived  safely 
at  the  fort,  found  my  friends  well,  and  exchanged  eoidid 
oongratulationt. .  "^  •  "     « 

Sabbath,  Juiie|flth,  I  preached  to  the  people  of  the  fort, 
and  in  the  evening  had  a  third  sei|ioe,  in  which  as  hereto, 
fore,  an  opportunity  was  given  to  those  present,  to  propose 
questions  on  any  subject  of  religion  about  which  they  wished 
infermaUon.    I  was  particularly  gratified  to  find,  that  du- 
ring my  absence,  public  worship  had  been  ttiaintained,  and 
an  efibrrliad  been  made  to  bring  the  French  Canadians  to 
•tt«»d  upon  religious  instruction.     They  aw  assembled 
twice  on  the  Sabbath,  and  a  portion -of  seri^nn  and  a  sert. 
mon  in  French,  tie  rend  to  them  by  Dr.  MoLaflghHn.  '  -v 
I  was  favored  with  an  opportunity  to  send  to  Sopelay  thb 
promised  powder  and  balls,  by  Capt.  Black,  a  jtentleiui  of 
the  Company;  who  in  a  few  day*  was  to  leave  Vanoouver 
for  his  statioir  north  of  Port  CNnuiagan^ 

On  the  Htb,  we  took  a  water  exoiiiSsioB  in  the  steam-boil 
Beaver,  Capt.  Home,  down  the  Coliimi^  to  th^  eonMM|^ 
of  the  western  branch  of  the  Multneailb ;  up  thisriveHrili 
the  Willamette,  and  then  into  tb»  ttkidle  branoh  of  li^^ 
Multnomah,  and  through  it  into  the  OsHnnbia,  and  faMk  to 
the  fort.    All  the  low  lands  were  ovearflowod  with  the  anmut 
freshet,  and  presented  the  appearaiioe  of  an  immense  b*^4 
extending  far  into  the  oountrjr.  ^^  day  imm  pleasant  aiil^ 


awiiMij*! 


!"P 


mmm 


la  woond 

knd  admirB  wid 

may  exoUim, 

tMt  thou  made 


ibout  the  Cm- 
lundated,  Mti» 
arrived  safely 
langed  eordlAl 

lie  of  the  fort, 
lich  as  hereto- 
ent,  to  propoee 
sh  they  wished 
fiod,  that  du. 
kintained,  and 
Canadian*  to 
vn  aasemUed 
tfe  and  a  seA 
iaAghlln. 
oSopel»ythto 
jtentleAtti  of 
re  Vanootiver 

lie  steam-boat 
ie  conAlMifll^ 
thi.riv«rttf 
ranch  of  Ip^ 
and  back  Ik 
th  the  anntid 
nmense  bay. 
pleasant  afedi 


KAVIQABU  WATIBS. 


995 


1^ 


oUr  company  oheerfiil.  The  noiVeltr  of  a  steam-boat  on  the 
Columbia,  awakened  a  train  of  prospective  reflections  up<m 
the  probable  ohanpa  which  would  take  place  in  these  re. 
mote  regions,  ia livery  few  yean.  It  was  wholly  an  un- 
thought  of  tl^i^Wben  I  fint  contemplated  this  enterprise, 
that  I  shiMiMmr  here  this  forerunner  of  commerce  and  b6- 
TiM>  gftyety  which  prevailed  wt£  often  suspended, 
while  we  oonveraed  of  comiiig  days,  «rhen  with  civilized 
mea,  all  lie  rapid  unproveianla  Ik  the^its  of  life,  riiould 
balBilfaduoedover  this  new  woiti,'and  W|t  and  vil- 
lages shall  apring  up  oq  the  weet,  iilli^Pfcspringing  up 
on  the  east  of  tlie  gt«|j|teantaina,  j|d  sitof^mpire  shall 
1^  added  io  tSe  king^l^the  eartb. 

The  Columbia  is  the  only  river  of  magnitude  in  the  Ore- 
gon  Twritoay,  and  this  JanavigaWe  for  ships  but  (ne  hun- 
dred  and  mrtf  miles  to  the  Cascades;  and  it  is  the  only 
ooe  which  nftnlsa  harbor  for  lai^ge  ships  on  the  coast,  fttim 
CaUfomia  to  tiw  M"  of  n(nth  latftude.  For  bateaux  and 
iratious  other  ^t  oraft,  the  CoHwnbhi  and  its  branches  are 
ns/vigahkaihonswkd  miles.  Tiie  iatttrml^vigation  oouM 
not  btLaraoh  iowpved,  onksa  at  gmA  «ip«ise,  by  canals 
llf^aaifl  iii||,  wUeh  lH  so  fturaereus  that 
tlMi^tflMMhmk.  «»!§  considerable 
is  carried  c||D|iikkM  of  these  waters,  and 
Aa  ioffsniiity  of  mei^p  ^llSit,  when  it  shall  be  raOre 
ly  pepnteta^in  eontrive  feoilities,  as  on  the  eaM, 
[y  impzeviaiil^  7>  intoinourae  of  remote  and  differ. 
ioBs  'OCfhiAlqpriprf.' '  • ' 


■^, 


ilillMmiii       I  iWriiiiimlii    I  iimVlBmilitiMMiiiliii 


«■"""'•   I  i""»"tlW«IW 


ijl?*- 


S2A 


OBOLOOT. 


flin 


.*^ 


QHAPTB^  XXnt. 


dbology. 


■'^ 


*  Havino  remarked  on  th^  features  of  tha  oouatry  through 
whicli  I  paBHe<i,  ••  I  prcywdad,  I  shall  now  gl^  •  more 
connected  andy||piliiary  i^w  of  fiujta,  the  result  o^n^  ob- 
servations inSmmp  the  geology  of  that  hitherto  unet- 
plored  rcgi<)li#iB^i|narking«||tajmr,  on  the  obsanwd 
facts,  it  cannot  ba  eic|>ected  thai^pMnild  be\ble  to  give  a 
complete  view  of  the  geology  of  so  extensive  a  territory ;  it 
being  greater  than  the  fThole  of  the  United  States  east,  of 
the  Alleghany  Mountains.  The  complexil^ltoo,  must  be 
i*nsidered,  of  plainly  marked  phenomena,  resulting  from 
long  continued'igneous  action,  where  bath juioient  and  com- 
paratively recent  produetftare  so.bloadil^that  time  and 
much  experiequ^alone  can  resolve,  aptpecirancet,  at"  fIfM 


view  inexplicabto.    Set  the  reader  al8(|pdd  to 
cumstances  under-lfiiich  the  nulior  was  comBelle 
the  data  of:ib,^wiclu8i(^|^H|<i|gret|yfta^ 
stay  in  a  country,  whi|MH|||  years  are  reqf 
to  inve8tiga.te  all  Ifs  intei8|S-riM|^na,  and 
80  rich,  he  could*  make  but  fe^rl^surements, 
judge  in  mosLcasei  by  appix>xim«||||||yj|des.    As  to  I 
scientific  accuracy  of  his  Btatem|M|ybto  deems  it  i 
than  just  to  say,  that  while  he  dotttj^SaiL  th^t  thb 
details  are  worthy  the  atiention  o(i)imf0&o  men«  apd 
correct  in  re,  so  that  perfect  rel^nce  may.be  placed  q^ 
them,  yet  he  feels  Wmsclf  ^||||i|g|i|that  almost  inty- 


are 


.JUjam  i'.uamummtmmm 


BQUQlry  through 
>w  gllf  •  jnaoh) 

result  o^>b- 
:  hitherto  unet- 
m  the  obMnwd 
e\ble  to  give  ft 
B  a  territory ;  it 
d  .^tatfes  east,  of 
t^'jtoo,  must  be 
resulting  front 
poient  and  coin- 
that  time  and 
iraacet,  af  Aim 
1  to' this  tbe  cir- 
DOte 
f 
ftilty 
,  and"^ 
lents, 
As  to  I 
ems  it 

hat  the  iacts^ 
9  men«a|id 
f^he  placed,  o^ 
hat  almost  inta- 


/'A.^ 


# 

,  ^ 

t* 

,>tf,  ' 

• 

J . 

.& 


*» 


■  ■  i[BiVi|[<iiiiiiiii«i«i»Mi>»«w» 


1 


i 


mmmimmmmmm»tm 


•  OMUMT. 

iUvfl  knowlAdge,  whioh  b»  aloo*  pommen  who  Km  long 

been  a  field- laborer. 

With  th«M  coosi4|vratJoM  the  author.  preMints  the  retult 
of  hia  obwtrvatioiis,  hvping  the  reader  may  find  much  thiu 
it  valuable  napMtiiig  theae  regions  of  the  sotting  eun,  re- 
plete  aa  they  |||  with  Intereat,  arising  from  grandeur  both 
of  scenery,  and  of  developements  of  the  modes  and  eflTecta  of 
the  operaUons  of  the  great  geological  agents;  especially  of 
that  eleroect,  whioh  in  time  past  has  wrought  such  ohan. 
gea,  ^  is  yet  gradually  and  mora  unmroeivedly  produ- 
cing  them;  where  it  has  played  all  |t8  Og^  freakj,  and 
then  quietly  leA  thi.  apot^th  so  few»uperfi«|)oscd  materi- 
als,  that  well  developMidpanomeda  my  be  leisurely  ex. 
amined.  -  ^  . 

My  design  is  first  to  give  a  g.  leral  view  of  the  rooks  of 
Oregon— then  state  a  few  facts  n  the  form  of  remarks  or 
desoripUona-and  then  add  u  brief  oaulogue  of  miuerala 
found  in  this  Territory. 

After  leaving  4he  great  secondary  valley  of  the  Miads. 
sippi,  near  the  Blaok  Hills,  which  are  a  range  of  leaser 
mounuins,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  flie  geologist  be- 
gins  t^find  rocka-^f  the  Carboniferou|  Group,  obscurely 
ro«ni^  beneMltthe  de^  soH,  and  anthraoite.ooal  in  loose 
fragm^ta^o  the  banka  of  nd^  gunning  into  the  Platte. 
Among  aiA  beyond  the  Bladi|Pi,  the  carboniferous  strata 
are  oljrly  seen,  the  o«8  "cropping  out"  and  presenting 
'-By  the  same  features  as  did  the  Wilksbarre  beds  in 
llvania,  «{hsn  llkw  them  before  they  were  worked." 
i,  fer  several  days,  We  rode  over  rocks,  interspersed 
now  ^  then  with  untKracite,  and  having  marks  of  the 
preaanee  of  iron,  aa  la  usual  in  regular  coal  deposita. 

Pwafaig  this,  Oie  geolqgist  next  reachea  another  group, 


•UImt  Um  umwr  MOoadUtry,  or  more  rMMOt  rookq,  lying  M 
th«  feot  of  th«  Rooky  MounUins.  I  wm  ioollnod  to  beli«v«, 
tnm  tha  faot  thtt  1  wm  sppareatly  gtiriogloally  rising,  m 
w«U  M  r««lly  KMAnding  above  Um  Ivwl  of  tiM  ooMn,  that 
they  ware  the  latter.  Bad  Stiala,  or  eindblnBe,  I  ftnind  ia 
what  are  tamnd  tb«  Red  Butee.  Perhafw  HAi  ie  New  Red 
9andatone. 

Reaohing  the  Rooky  Monntaina,  whioh  ara  a  eoatinuatioa 
of  the  Andes,  d^reased  in  Mexioo,  GraaHa  beoenes  abiNi- 
dant,and  other  jj^fimary  rooks,  extending  to  an  unknoiiB  die* 
tanoe  north  aiM||!|^th,  and  more  than  a  hundred  milea  east 
and  west,  "ntb  section,  mostly  'oorered  with  perpetual 
snow,  aflbrda  ample  apaoa  for  tha  lludy  of  glacial  geokgi- 
oal  action,  a  subject  now  eliciting  much  attention.  TiM 
valley  through  whieh  we  paasad^  remarkably  indioatea  tlM 
overruling  hand  of  Providmoe,  in  providing  a»  easy  paait 
where  no  aarbua  obalaola  preaenta  itself  to  tha  oeoatraotieB 
of  a  raiUroad.  Thia  and  other  vallaya  woald  uadoubtoMy, 
with  fiwilitiea  for  obaervatimi,  give  aqiM^  Ofpoitunltiaa  to 
diaoowr  the  fonnatioo  of  thia  vaat  ohaio,  aa  Ihm  bean  daw 
ia  legard  to  tlii  graat  ntoky  nngm  of  die  Baatam  CV»- 
tinant.  ■  '  ,, 

Advanoiog  waalwani,  aad  mm^fiag  tmm  the  ^eoky 
.  Mountaina,  there  ta  found  JlMpadiately  at  their  btsa  JaeoB* 
daiyRooka;  but  aa  wa  igjpinh  the boidera ofW  of  tJw 
gffOt  voloaEio  Aimaoea  of  the  wtiM,  th«y  ai«  OM^ii  W«»*. 
kao  and  tilted  up,  pmaenting  aooM  siagutMr  pheallttMb 
wl|iob  I  have  maotioBed  in  the  joomal,  suoh  aa  the  faSp 
tioa  of  nanow  ridgea  with  die  atnta.  at  di&raat  aagleai  w 
plaoea  thaae  dyke>Uke  ridgea  are  nearlyt  regular  ia 
die  and  diatanoiB,  aa  though  oraobkl  by  aa  uj^iaaving  foiBe^ 
and  tha  fiaauraa  aUed  aftarwar^a  with  earti  j  a«Lift  other 

♦ 


Si&.-MiiMB'miiSm'^^mi^^S^iii-^iM.^^im'm^' 


t  roolD%  lying  M 
lIliMd  to  beli«v«, 
lloally  riaing,  m 
r  tito  ooMn,  that 
■iDoe,  I  (bund  in 
tMikNewRad 

r*  a  eoatinuctioB 
•  beoMOMAbon- 
•n  uoknoiw  di«- 
adred  ibUm  iMMt 
I  with  perpetuftt 
gitoial  g«ok)gi- 
«ttenticm.  llM 
bly  indiostes  dw 
ig  •»  easy  pM*. 
)  A»  ooutraotiMi 
qU  uMJbubMHy, 
r  offoituDlti**  to 
IS  ha*  bMadOM 
haBaatom  €<«• 

fMM  tha4tMky 
tbairbaaaJaeoB* 
taraoClMMortiM 
jr  aM  wMk  Into* 

bant  aagtoai  ^ 
aeaf  ly  regular  in 
i  upbeaTing  fiMee, 
il  I  aBdvlB  othar 


mm 


9aOVQ91. 


9^ 


plaoaa  axisting  in  vadga-form  aumn,  ialanpaned  belwaan 
other  rooka,  and  having  other  varietiea  of  dislooaUon.    Tha 
lithologioal  oharaotar  of  tlw  tract,  over  which  wa  roda  for 
two  daya,  oorreaponda  with  that  of  tlio  now  red  aandatooa 
of  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut.     Tliere  arc  dopoatU  both 
of  the  rod  and  alaty  colored  atrata— and  their  depth  aeanw 
to  be  quite  great,  aa  ia  evinced  by  bluria.     But,  aa  I  obwirved 
no  organic  remaina,  my  inclination  to  believe  that  theaa 
rooka  are  the  new  red  aandutooc,  ia  founded  only  on  their 
mineral  character,  and  the  ikct.  a  very  imporunt  one,  that 
they  appear  directly  to  underlay  the  aaliferoua  rocka,  or  to 
lie  inunediatoly  above  them.     Shotild  theao  jocka,  whi<A 
arc  quite  extenaive,  ftovt  to  bo  new  red  aandatone,  it  adda 
no  little  to  the  iotereat  of  the  geology  of  a  country  ao  ri«b 
ia  otbar  reapeota.     Perbape,  aa  red  rooka  of  the  aame  ki«d 
lie  on  each  aide  of  the  Rocky  Mountaina,  it  may  be  proved 
hereafter,  that  the  range  waa  elevated  through  a  depoait  of 
shale  or  new  red  aandatone. 

Directly  after  leaving  the  red  aandatme,  and  paaaiog  a 
belt  of  voloanio  operationa,  which  alao  are  found  among  the 
red  and  alaty  rooka  juat  deacribed,  (aa  will  be  aeen  by  ret 
ereooe  to  the  Trti*  Tettma,  the  Dutea,  and  ^ther  ronioal 
mountaina,  aa  exhibited  on  the  map,)  Saliferoua  Rooka 
are  aeao.  Here  ia  Native  Salt,  Chloride  of  Sodimnt  and 
red,  giPeen,  brown,  and  white  atrata  of  indurated  m»rl, 
agreeing  in  character  with  the  geological  featurea  of  (he 
B«ohDia  and  Wieliezka  mines  of  Poland.  Theae  nNika 
tim  occupy  quite  a  tract  of  country,  aa  we  were  aever. 
al  daya  in  paaung  them,  and  they  aeemed  to  reach  both 
north  and  aoutb  of  the  locality  of  rock  aalt,  aa  is  proved 
by  the  exiatenoe  of  the  great  Salt  Lake  at  the  aouth ; 
and  tmrelera  oaert  that  native  rook  aalt  is  (bund  (o 


BOEHMI 


Um  nordi.  Md  4af^M\j  flir  to  tlw  m»ah,  mm  Um  Uodiy 

Mountain  rmng«.* 
We  h»T«  now  trrivMi  •!  Or«f{on  profMr,  and  And  it  a  t»< 

amphitheatre  of  volcanic  operation*,  whem  *n  nihiblt^  in 

unexoelled  inagnifloenoe,  yari*ty,  and  diatiDOtneM,  the  pi9» 

duotiomi  or»rverai  pertoda. 

The  Ofwenatone,  found  in  oonnexloo  with  the  new  r»d 

•anditone  and   eahna   roolu,  undoubtedly  belong*   to  the 

■•me  period  as  that  of  other  oountri«ii 

The  Columnar  Bawlt,  ooirre«poM<Jing  aa  it  does  with  other 

•imilar  eruptiaaa  in  the  ea^em  world,  l«  probably  ootempo- 
raneoua  with  them.     The  Mime  idtnUty  of  time  may  b* 

traced  in  regard  to  tlie  trachyte,  obsidian,  olinkaton)  or 
phonolite,  and  other  product^  after  allowing  for  difforenoe 
of  oircumatance*  of  prcsBure,  and  rapidity  of  reWg*ratIon. 
Recent  erupiions  alao  have  taken  plaoe. 

The  trace*  of  igneoua  action,  comm«?noing  near  the 
Rooky  Mountains,  or  mountolna  adjacent  to  them,  in  the  eeo- 
Qodary  rooka  are  evinced  by  the  di«turb«Ml  itate  of  theee 
rocka,  a*  already  deacribed,  and  grow  more  and  mot«  evi- 
dent until  almoat  the  whole  regkm  exhibit*  volcanic  pro- 
duct*.  In  <«lher  place*,  the  'rimary  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
taina,  or  mountain*  we*t  of  this  range,  fiwt  begin*  to  ba 
cracked  and  injected  with  dyke*,  then  farther  wart  tarmi. 
nalea  in  the  vaal  voloanw  fielda  of  upper  and  lower  Oregon. 
It  i*  in  vain  to  attempt  fully  to  deecribe  t\i»  Volcanic  op- 
eration* here  preaented.  Mountain*  of  amygdaloid,  the 
oavitic*  of  which  are  moally  vacant ;  volcanic  conglomer- 
ate, datrituB,  columnar  baaalt,  and  diaiotegrated  lava,  nvafy 
v/hef«  abound,  together  with  oth«r  leaa  frequent  prodiw- 


•  Bm  Vtme  QmAogy,  p*f«  t7S,  and 
!|ritU  QMloffioal  AMoatatioa. 


la(i^y|«p«ifttetlM 


mw/tb«Ro«li7 

kiid  And  it «  TMl 
«ro  nihibitiHl  in 
ictncM.  the  ^ro- 

jth  the  new  rtA 
belong*   to  the 

t  does  with  other 
obebly  ootempo- 
of  time  may  be 
n,  olinkaton;  or 
ig  (br  diflbrenee 
of  refHgertttlori- 

noing  ne«r  the 
them,  in  the  mo- 
h1  lUite  of  ibeee 
re  iind  nwfe  evi- 
lit*  voIcAoio  pro- 
he  Iloolcy  Moon- 
inrt  begin!  to  be 
rther  weat  lermi- 
id  lower  Oregon. 
t^le  tolcanio  op- 
amygdaloid,  the 
Banio  oooglomer- 
rated  lava,  nvary 
frequent  produo- 

Reft^yB0p«arttetk» 


oiBLoer. 

tioiw ;  obsidian,  ellnkatofie,  pitohstone,  und  minerals  Ibund 
in  fiM  cavitiM  of  amygdaloijl.  The  tops  of  hills  and  moun- 
tain*  are  somrtim#«  spread  out  into  horiiontal  plains,  olhera 
tsrminale  in  conical  peaks,  or  are  rounded  like  domet. 
Kscarpnionts  are  frequently  presented  like  that  in  the  plala 
heiultng  this  chapter.  Kef^ular  craters,  presenting  them- 
Helves  in  the  form*  of  ooncs  and  concave  deprenions,  art 
often  found  in  plains,  or  capping  the  »ummits  wf  mountains ; 
inoet  of  them,  however,  are  more  er  less  obscured  by  the 
lapee  of  time,  but  still  as  marked  as  the  extinct  v%ten  of 
the  Bandwioh  lalands.  The  marked  voioanio  agency,  man. 
ifeeting  itself  in  these  and  similar  products,  and  completely 
occupying  most  of  the  country  wJiioh  we  have  termed  upper 
and  lower  Oregon,  continues  to  be  evident  until  lost  in  tlia 
waters  of  the  Pacific.  In  smne  places  the  Primary  rooka 
seem  again  to  be  found  on  the  western  ooa»t  Near  tha 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  I  noticed  a  few  Tertiary  rooks  lying 
in  situ,  and  obtained  a  few  shells  belonging  to  this  depoait. 
Whether  there  is  on  the  Nortii  West  Ct>«st  a  regular  Tertl. 
ary  basin,  partly  on  shore,  and  the  remainder  under  th* 
OMan,  remains  to  be  determined.  Queen  Charlottes  Island 
on  the  north  is,  at  bast  in  part,  primary.  Primary  rocka 
rise  in  various  parts  of  the  ooontry,  and  are  like  istluids  in 
the  vast  volcanic  field.  8uoh  are  the  Selin-m  river  mo«m. 
tains,  and  the  granite  and  carbonate  of  lime  near  the  Spo. 
kein  river,  and  other  plaoea. 

We  have  Hiua  glanced  at  the  rocks  of  Oregon  as  we  pm 
westward.  In  relation  to  their  extent  in  a  northerly  and 
southerly  direotion,  I  am  unabl4>  to  say  much.  There  is 
evidence  that  ignecua  action  has  extended  from  Quean 
Charlotte*  Island  to  California.  I  have  already  remarked 
ut  the  extent  of  the  Saliferous  rocks.      That  they  extend 


II 


trrnn  north  of  xhm  ^»lhf  whdf*  I  feoad  MOiv*  i^tt 
into  M«<kic«,  mfipmmn  qailA  oi^rtain. 

Having  r»in»rii4Ni  thua  much  in  gsnaral  Utrma,  I  wHl 
prtKmM  to  gi»i»  •  few  flMta  without  much  ofd«r,  aonM,  if 
not  kit  of  which,  n>lght  have  h«on  inolwicti  in  my  dawrip- 
tiao  of  th«  gnat  oliangea  in  tho  n>obn. 

Tho  plat*  at  tha  haad  of  thia  chapter  «l<<man<l'i  a  mom 
doAnita  explanation  than  has  been  given  in  former  eiiltioaa. 
It  aubatanlially  dea«ril»»ai  (V«R«|iiont  i-aoarpmenli*  <>f  vnl<  ania 
rooka,  auch  aa  are  f.und  in  nearlv  every  part  ol  Or.gon. 

The  plao*  .Iwiigtted  to  be  repreaentwl  I7  if,  is  beiow  tl» 
Junotion  of  tha  CkKMhooota-ka  with  tha  Lewta  river.  WWl 
•DfiM  variationa  it  ia  applicable  to  a  mural  eaoarpment  aaT- 
ami  milaa  below  the  Caaoadea  on  the  ColumL  Himilar 
■Mral  emarpmenta  are  found  in  the  Hpokein  ootiutry,  and  at 
tlM  Offwnd  Coul«,  or  ancient  bad  of  the  Columbia.  TW 
naadla-pointa  on  the  right  of  tha  plat*  M«  fbuod  moat  db. 
tiootly  marked,  about  and  jual  below  tha  C«8oad«i,  though 
thay  occur  at  numaroua  other  plaoea.  Indeed  thia  i«  not  an 
MifrequaDt  form  of  baaalt  weat  of  tha  Rooky  Mountaina. 

The  firat  atrata  inarkad  in  tha  plate  above  what  ia  intend- 
ad  t>r  the  ahore  of  the  river,  ki  irregular  maaaive  amygda- 
loid. In  aome  looalitiea  atmtlar  to  that  from  which  the  plat* 
ia  taken,  there  ia  found  a  oonglomerate  underlaying  thb 
atrata.  The  next  or  aecood  atrata  of  the  plate,  ia  voloani« 
braooia  or  oonglomerate,  oompoaed  of  dalritua,  and  angular 
fVagmenta  mixed  with  earthy  matter,  and  ia  perhape  wtet 
aome  oall  voloanio  tufa.  Thia  brecoiated  layer  ia  more  or 
laaa  hard  and  oompact,  varying  however  very  much  in  dif- 
ferant  looalitiea,  and  ia  in  all  oaaea  .-nly  a  few  feet  thkk. 
The  third  atrata  ia  columnar  baaalt,  regularly  oryataliieed 
in  pantagona  about  two  %t  in  diameter.    In  other  plaoea 


mmmaa 


UvtMlt, 


1  utmui,  I  vfll 
order,  ■oma,  If 
in  my  dmmttif* 

mfttMl*  k  mom 
brm«r  MiltkNM. 
nta  of  vnloMil* 
rt  oJ  On-gon. 
H,  b  below  tlw 
■  river.  WHh 
■oarpment  eer- 
mL  ..  Similar 
oountry,  and  at 
olumbUt.  TIm 
found  moM  dla> 
iuioad««,  though 
mnI  thiJi  in  not  an 
y  Mountaiae. 
I  what  ia  intend- 
aaeive  amygda- 
whieh  the  plata 
nderlaying  thta 
late,  k  volcanki 
is,  and  angular 
is  perhaps  wiMt 
Kyer  is  more  or 
ry  much  in  dif- 
fer feet  thkk. 
irly  oryetaliieed 
In  other  pli 


.  »aouMV.  m 

they  vary  in  siM  ftmn  one  to  four  or  more  foet  in  diameter. 

It  ia  in  all  the  looaliiiaa  where  I  noticail  U,  oluaejy  jointed, 

with  (he  oonvni  nurfaQa  upwanJa,  like  the  basalt  of  tha  OU 

•nl'sCauaeway.     The  fourt'  ia  a  brecolated  layer.     Tha 

fifth  on  the  left,  ia  columnar  baaall,  and  on  the  rlj^ht,  aryg. 

daluid  in  juxtapoeition  with  the  banali.     Tho  sixth  ia  a  breo. 

oiated  layer.     Tha  seventh  and  upp«trinoat  ia  a  aemi-orya. 

talised  baaalt  on  the  left,  and  newlle-pointpd  liaaalt  on  tha 

right.     The  srmi.orystallf.ed  basalt  very  nearly  resemblea 

the  PallaadcM  on  iho  Hudson  River,  and  the  greenstone  of 

Kast  aod  Wpst  R.^ks  at  New  Haven,  and  the  more  diatiflut 

oryatala  found  in  Mt.  Tom  and  IHt.  Holyoke.    For  the  latter 

■a«  Hitohcook's  Geo.  1st  cd.  page  78. 

In  a  deaorjption  of  blufTs  and  banka  of  rivers,  wher* 

there  are  mural  eaoarpmenta  aimilar  to  that  from  which  tha 

plate  ia  taken,  I  have  numbered  from  ten  to  twenty  strata  of 

amyg«laIoid,  baaalt,  and  brecciated  layera,  which  appear  to 

liave  been  thrown  up  in  different  porioda,  through  craters, 

fissures  or  ohaama,  rising  in  auocesaion  one  above  another. 

In  aome  looatioos  tlie  lowest  formation  is  pudding  stone ;  on 

this  amygdaloM,  varying  in  thiokneaa  from  a  few  feet  to 

twenty  or  thirty ;  and  then  above  tbia  a  stratum  of  angular 

fragments  of  basalt  and  amygdaloid,  frequently  intermixed 

wkh  lava,  which  Fhave  termed  the  breooiated  layer.     Thia 

strata  generally  appears  to  have  bff n  expose*!  for  a  period 

to  atmospheric  agencies,  until  in  somw  degree  deoompoawi, 

and  upon  thia  the  alternating  strata  aa  described- above,  in- 

dioating  so  many  diiTurent  eruptions  ;  the  whole  series  rising 

from  fifly  to  several  hundred  feet.     The  bi«ociated  layera 

are  on»y  a  few  feet  in  depth,  and  appear  to  have  been  for  a 

long  period  the  surface,  aAer  which  a  new  eruption  haa 

again  overspread  the  whole.     In  one  section  of  the  hlmh 

80*  * 


MPI 


mmm 


»34 


QBOLOOT. 


r 


w«lk  of  the  Grand  Coul^,  far  up  the  sidea,  instead  of  th« 
bNocia  is  presented  a  depth  of  yellow  earth  of  six  or  eigM 
foet,  and  above  this  several  strata  of  basalt  and  amygdaloid, 
OS  above  described,  in  like  manner  exhibiting  proof  that  thb 
section  for  a  long  time  constituted  the  surface.  Thus  it 
appears  that  the  internal  fires  have  had  long  intervals  of  re- 
pose, and  tlicn  have  again  sent  forth  their  volcanic  sub. 
stances.  The  probability  is,  that  they  were  thus  in  opera, 
tioo  for  centuries,  but  with  a  few  exceptions,  have  ceased 
for  centuries  past,  so  that  time  has  been  given  for  atmoa- 
pherio  agencies  to  decompose  the  volcanic  productions,  sut 
fioiently  to  form  a  soil  covering  most  parts  ef  the  country. 
The  enquiry  naturally  arises,  whether  it  may  not  be  on  ac- 
count of  the  great  internal  fires  ~of  this  country,  that  the 
temperature  is  so  much  warmer  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountains  than  on  the  east ;  for  it  is  an  interesting  fact,  that 
the  easterr.  side  of  North  America,  in  given  parallels  of 
latitude,  is  the  coldest,  while  the  western  in  the  same  par- 
allels, la  the  warmest  part  of  the  worU.  And  may  not  this 
arise  from  the  comparative  recency,  as  well  as  extent  and 
depth  of  the  voloanio  operations,  which  have  pervaded  this 
wh^  region  of  the  setting  sun.*  The  length  of  time,^during 
which  immense  masses  of  lava  and  other  volcanic  matter 
retain  heat,  is  well  known,  and  needs  no  remark.  May 
not  the  climate  thus  be  afieoted  in  On^^on  ? 

AoKMig  other  localities  of  columnar  basalt,  thv^  coluran* 
of  which  are  regular  crystalized  pentagons,  ft  distinguish. 


t 


*  Bf  reference  to  the  annexed  meteorolegieal  table  it  will  ke  c«  . 
from  olieervsUone  taken  between  the  45th  and  46th  degreea  of  Bcvfb 
ktttade,  that  in  the  winter  of  1831— t;  tbe  greateat  eoM  was  bat  ftB^ 
below  the  freeiins  point,  and  this  for  three  mominfe  oiilj-r-an4  jda. 
riB(  the  month  of  March,  there  were  bat  twomominge  in  which  tM« 
was.anj  froet.  ..';.'<>»" 


«^ 


■■:~,.i.>i.Jl;^^.,.V.^w^iC;,a..i^.;f'.:^VAV<V.ffi«Ji..,/.VW^^  -ilr  ■»ril.<MH..I.I»i» 


wmm 


9,  instead  of  tiM 
th  of  aix  or  eight 
and  amygdaloid, 
ig  proof  that  thi» 
iirface.  Thus  it 
g  intervals  of  re- 
lir  volcanic  sub> 
re  thus  in  opera* 
one,  have  ceased 
given  for  atmos- 
productions,  suA 
B  of  the  country, 
lay  not  be  on  ao- 
Bountry,  that  the 
west  side  of  tlw 
sresting  fiurt,  that 
iven  parallels  of 
n  the  satne  par- 
And  may  not  this 
ell  as  extent  and 
ive  pervaded  this 
til  of  time^during 
r  volcanic  matter 
1  remark.  May 
? 

salt,  thc^  columns 
OS, »  diatioguisb* 


lableitwUItoctM, 
Sth  degrees  of  nt>r*h 
est  COM  wu  bat  l^ 
niags  ohlj— ui4  dO' 
■nings  in  which  tliei* 


eMMMMT. 


3«5 


ed  one  is  on  the  high  lands  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Snake 
and  Spokein  rivers.  The  formations  of  this  locality  have 
many  interesting  charaoterisuos,  as  described  on  page  206. 
Another  below  the  Cascades  of  the  Columbia,  where  the 
regular  pentagonal  columns  wall  up  the  north  side  for  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile.  Hero  are  also  fnund  all  the  va- 
rieties of  volcanio  productions  ; — voltiknic  peaks,  as  diver- 
sified in  their  forms  as  they  are  numerous,  being  conical, 
denticulated,  and  needle-pointed  ;  varying  in  magnitudes, 
and  rising  one  above  another  from  ten  feet  to  fiAeen  hun- 
dred feet.  These  occur  almost  entirely  upon  the  south 
side  of  the  river.  There  ara  also  numerous  islands  of 
basalt  in  the  Columbia  river  and  ite  branches,  eleva- 
ted often  much  above  high  freshet  water.  These  are  nu- 
merous in  the  La  Dalles,  and  in  the  ancient  bed  of  the 
Columbia,  er  Grand  Coul«.  These  Islands  are  the  same 
in  form  and  substance  as  the  dykes  which  exist  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  country.  There  is  something  similar  to 
these  Needles  in  what  I  have  termed  the  Pillars,  wher» 
one  or  two  such  needles  oeoar  alone,  and  rise  some  hun- 
dred feet.  They  are  basalt,  and  so  hard  and  compara- 
tively smooth,  that  I  can  account  in  no  other  way  for  their 
production,  than  that  they  are  dykes,  which  have  been 
injeoted  into  soft  rook,  or  soil,  which  lias  since  been  re- 
moved by  other  agencies.  The  most  remarkable  in- 
stance of  this  is  the  Pillar  Rock  at  the  lower  part  of  thn  ' 
rapids,  belpw  the  Cascades,  at  the  head  of  the  tide  water 
cf  the  Columbia.  It  is  a^xnit  five  hundred  feet  high ;  and 
is  perpendicular  on  the  river  side,  and  nearly  so  on  Um 
other  rades ;  and  is  wholly  isolated  upon  a  narrow  strip 
of  bottom  land,  with  a  small  base,  and  in  its  appMranoe 
resembles  a  vaat  muiument.    Another  audi  needle  is  ibuod 


tmmtm 


tii*«ii«teiiMMMn»ii 


»86 


OKOtOOT. 


in  the  river  near  ttm  mouth  of  the  Colombia,  and  ttanding 
alone  it  makes  a  very  oonapiouous  object. 

Another  result  of  volcanic  agency  is  seen  in  the  Primary 
rooks,  in  which  are  cracks  or  fissures,  through  which  gas- 
eous products  have  escaped,  without  forming  a  crater,  and 
indeed  without  ejecting  any  igneous  solid  matter.  One  lo- 
cality of  this  kind  prissents  a  result  somewhat  peculiar.  It 
is  on  elevated  land  near  the  Spokein  river,  where  there  are 
hundreds  of  regular  cones,  varying  from  a  few  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  height,  to  a  hundred  or  more  in  diameter  at  their 
base,  and  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high.  Tiiey  are  made  up  of 
angular  fragments  of  granite,  ttom  an  inch  to  six  or  eight 
-inches  in  size,  and  stand  on  a  sandy  plain  now  sparsely 
covered  with  yellow  pine,  apparently  disturbed  only  at  the 
places  where  these  cones  have  broken  through  it.  At  a 
short  distance  south  is  granite  in  aitu.  Near  theise  cones 
there  is  a  large  dyke,  visible  a  hundred  rods  or  more,  the 
only  other  evidence  of  a  disturbing  force.  These  piles  of 
firagments  seem  to  have  been  made  by  the  escape  of  steam 
or  gas ;  for  they  appear  as  if  smoked  by  a  fire  from'  within 
the  cones.  The  Salmon  river  mountains  aflbrd  another 
example  similar  to  this.  An  irregular  circular  space  of 
a  hundred  acres  or  more,  is  covered  with  immense  quan- 
tities of  granite  broken  into  cubical  and  angular  fi«g- 
ments,  as  though  prepared  for  Macadamizing  the  fbtuie 
turnpikes  of  Oregon. 

These  mountains,  though  ntere  islands  of  granite  Mid 
mica  slate  in  the  great  volcanic  field,  are  quite  extensive, 
and  in  addition  to  the  breaking  up  of  the  granite  by  ig- 
neous forces,  they  are  also  perforated  by  vents  or  chim- 
neys, through  which  lava  has  escaped.  One  of  the  highest 
points  of  the  mountains  which  lay  in  my  route  was  of  this 


Bttto 


iiAit'rirlini 


iiiiiiiMrfc*itiMM<M*M 


ii^iiif iTjifcaMlliato 


iWiDMKlliiw* 


bia,  and  standinji 

m  in  the  Primary 
'ough  which  gas- 
ling  a  orator,  and 
matter.  One  lo- 
rhat  peculiar.  It 
,  where  there  are 

few  feet  in  diam> 
diameter  at  their 

are  made  up  of' 
oh  to  six  or  eight 
ain  now  aparseiy 
urbed  only  at  the 
hrough  it.  At  a 
*Tear  the^se  oonee 
ods  or  more,  the 
These  pile*  of 
>  eecape  of  steam 
%  fire  from'  within 
ns  afford  another 
circular  space  of 
:h  immense  quan- 
id  angular  fi«g- 
nizing  the  fbture 

Is  of  granite  Mid 
B  quite  extensive, 
he  granite  by  ig- 
y  vents  or  ohiro- 
Dne  of  the  highest 
route  was  of  this 


■.■'rii|irrrtiMiimi|»! 


OEOtOST. 


88T 


sort.  It  is  a  granite  mountain,  with  the  top  capped  by  a 
volcanie  cone,  rising  like  an  immense  pyramid.  ^The 
passage  in  some  places  of  granite  into  basalt,  is  easily 
traced,  and  the  first  igneous  appearance  is  not  a  change 
of  the  structure,  but  multiplied  iVactures  increaee  until 
you  find  the  granite  broken  into  large  fragments;  and 
these  diminishing  in  size,  until  they  disappear  in  the  dis< 
tinof  oharaotrristics  of  volcanic  agency,  in  which  it  is 
changed  into  a  substance  resembling  traoh3^e,  if  it  has  not 
become  trachyte  itself,  while  in  tUu.  Smaller  sections  of 
granite  are  scattered  over  the  country  in  forms  of  lecn  di- 
mensions, protruding  from  the  earth  ;  but  these  are  of  some- 
what rare  ooounenoe. 

We  have  said  that  recent  igneous  action  has  taken  plaee. 
A  well  audienticated  instance  occurred  in  August  I8S1. 
Tiiere  ma  at  this  time  at  Port  Vancouver  and  vicinity,  tm 
uneommonly  dark  day,  which  was  thought  to  have  been 
caused  by  an  eruption  of  a  volcano.  The  whole  day  wa» 
nearly  as  dark  as  n^ht,  exoept  a  slight  red,  lurid  appear- 
ance, Tvhich  was  perceptible  until  near  night.  Lighted  can- 
dles wvrs  neeeasaiy  through  the  day.  The  atmosphere  was 
flll0d  with  ashes,  whk>b  were  very  light,  like  the  white  ashe* 
of  wood ;  all  having  the  appearance  of  being  produced  by 
great  fires,  and  yet  none  were  known  to  have  been  in  any 
part^  thd  whole  region  around,  llie  day  was  perfectly 
calm,  without  any  wind.  For  a  few  days  after,  the  fires 
out  of  dbors  Were  noticed  to  bum  with  a  bluish  Aame,  aa 
though  maed  with  sulphur.  There  were  no  earthquake*. 
By  observations  which  were  made  after  the  atmosphere  be- 
came clear,  it  was  thought  the  pure,  white,  perpetual  snow 
upon  Mount  St.  Helens  was  discolored,  presenting  a  brown 
appearance,  and  there/bre  it  was  ccmcluded,  thai^  there  ha4 


mpttmmm 


[ 


M8 


01IOU>OT. 


beau  upw  it  a  alight  eruption.*  The  Indiana  aay  they  have 
aeen  Area  in  the  ohaama  of  Mount  Hood.  Tilkl,  the  first 
chief  of  the  La  Dallea  Indians,  who  ia  a  man  of  more  than 
ordinary  talenta,  aaid  he  had  frequently  aeen  firea  in  the  fia- 
aurea  of  rooka  in  the  laat  named  mountain. f 

Though  i  have  improved  everj"  opportunity  which  liaa 
been  preaented  to  make  obaervationa,  and  have  alao  made 
many  enquiriea  of  men  who  have  traveled  extenaively  and 
ibr  a  long  time  in  diflbrent  parte  of  this  cpuntry,  som^  of 
whom  are  men  of  science,  yet  no  evidence  of  foaail  remains 
have  been  notioed,  with  the  exception  o**  a  very  few  apeci- 
mens.  T  saw  a  small  shell,  a  TurriuUa,  which  was  found  in 
a  mountain  south  of  Mount  Hood,  in  the  Callapooa  country. 
Also  a  few  miles  up  the  Columbia  river,  on  the  south  shore 
oi'the  bay,  I  fcund  some  very  large  petrified  bivalve  shells, 
embedded  in  calcarious  sandstone  of  the  Tottiary  Ibrmatioa. 
The  Urges':  specimens  which  I  took,  measure,  longitudinal* 
ly,  four  and  a  half  inches  from  the  hinge,  and  traiureruely, 
five.  They  are  very  perfect,  beautifiiUy  scalloped,  and 
have  all  the  lustre  of  living  shells. 

Since  the  channel  of  the  Columbia,  '<i  many  parts,  ia 
walled  up  on  ita  sides,  and  studded  with  islands  of  basaltic 
rooks,  rising  in  perpendicular  height  from  twenty  to  four 
hundred  feet ;  the  question  forces  itself  upon  the  mind,  what 
ageocy  formed  the  chmnel  of  the  Columbia  and  other  riven 
in  this  country,  flowing  through  ridges  and  Qiountaina  of 
hard  basalt  ?  Undoubtedly  the  action  of  water  has  worn 
the  rook  very  considerably  and  effected  changes,  but  per- 


*  Thia  WM  the  opinion  of  Doct.  Osrdner,  a  dittingnished  nstonlist, 
{torn  Bnyhuid,  who  wst  preMnt  at  tha  time. 

tSinoo  Uie  publiostton  of  tha sboro  in oUurfcUtion^  I  bsvo  basu 
crediUj  informed  thU  Uvm  wu  ejeeted  at  that  time  from  Monnt  St. 
Helen.         > 


VMWMMIMMbtMMMMiikiiitaHbB^MiiiJiaMi 


nil  fniiliirif  ir  iliiWrtMMiatitofiTi^iiiliiWillMiliMiai^ 


mm 


OM  My  they  have 

Tilkl,  the  fint 

wn  of  mora  than 

)n  fine  in  the  fia- 

t 

unity  which  h«a 
have  also  made 
1  extensively  and 
spuntry,  aom^  of 
3f  fossil  remains 
i  very  few  speoi- 
lioh  was  found  in 
illapooa  country. 
1  the  south  shore 
d  bivalve  shells, 
ttiary  ibrmatioo. 
ire,  longitudinal* 
md  traittreruely, 
r  scalloped,  and 

many  parts,  is 
lands  of  basaltlo 
a  twenty  to  four 
B  the  mind,  what 

and  other  riven 
id  Qiountains  of 
water  has  worn 
lianges,  but  per> 

igHishedBSfnniUft, 

tiaii%  I  bsva  bssM 
no  ftom  Monnt  St. 


•BOLOOT. 


399 


haps  by  no  prinoiple  of  Its  action  can  it  be  supposed,  that  it 
has  produced  so  long  and  so  deep  a  channel,  as  the  one 
through  which  the  river  flows,  and  through  such  solid  rook 
formations,  differing  but  little  ftom  irOn  in  hardness,  'iliat 
the  channel  of  rivers  owe  their  existence  to  other  causes 
than  (he  action  of  water,  is  no  new  idea.  Indeed  very 
many  an  now  described  as  formed  otherwise.  In  relation 
to  the  channels  of  the  Connecticut  river  and  its  branches, 
see  Prof.  Hitchcock's  Geo.  page  167,  1st  edit.  While  I 
believe  that  Providence  operates  by  mcttns,  yet  I  doubt  not 
then  are  phenomena  which  ara,  and  ever  may  remitln  unr«> 
solved.  While  conversing  in  relation  to  the  ehannel  of  the 
Columbia  with  some  literary  gentlemen,  who  had  flrequent* 
ly  passed  up  and  down  this  river,  after  sever^.l  theories  were 
proposed,  none  of  which  could  bear  the  test  even  of  proba* 
bility,  one  of  them  remarked,  he  had  been  raminded  of  his 
boyish  sportb,  when  he  had  dammed  up  water,  and  then  with 
his  finger  drawn  a  channel  through  the  sand  for  the  water 
to  run ;  so  it  seemed  to  him  that  Qod  had  drawn  a  channel 
for  the  Columbia. 

If  we  do  not  keep  in  view  the  overruling  hand  of  GM  •• 
n  landmark  in  our  Investigations,  but  look  to  nature,  at 
work  in  her  great  laboratory,  the  earth,  as  our  only  guMe 
to  teach  us  precisely  how  the  earth  was  formed,  we  sball, 
at  least,  be  in  danger  of  wandering  into  maxea  fnm  whioh 
we  shall  not  be  able  easily  to  extricate  ourselves. 

The  condition  of  the  country  on  the  western  side  of  th« 
Rooky  Mountains  differing  in  almost  every  particular  fVom 
that  on  the  eastern  side,  may  render  the  common  asaump* 
ticA  doubtful,  that  different  genera  and  species  of  plants  ami 
animals,  designate  distinct  formations  and  distinct  periods 
of  time,  b  whioh  such  formatioDs  took  plaoa.    And  if  it 


mmm 


940 


atOLOOY. 


WM  known  to  be  tru«,  that  the  ume  genera  and  ipeoioff  of 
uiinuUa  end  plente  had  their  exUtence  in  the  aaoie  period 
•r  time,  in  all  oountrien  of  the  aame  climate,  or  in  corree- 
ponding  latitudee,  then  tho  age  of  diflercut  formatione  might 
be  better  known  by  Toaail  remains.  But  it  is  a  faot,  that 
the  genera  and  apeoiea  of  animals  and  plants  may  differ 
widely  and  materially  in  the  same  country,  age,  and  lat- 
itude. This  is  now  the  case  in  North  America,  on  the  east 
and  west  sides  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  which  gives  us  a 
view  and  shows  what  may  be  the  truth  in  relation  to  re- 
gions of  the  earth,  perhaps  regarded  as  belonging  to  differ- 
ent periods,  though  in  faot  oontontporaneoue.  Yet  in  ail 
such  cases  marks  of  isochronism,  or  the  want  of  it,  doubt- 
less could  be  found,  and  with  proper  care  would  oonvlnoe 
the  experienced  geologist  of  their  diversity  or  identity  in 

lime. 

C!oropare  the  two  sides  of  North  America  as  they  now 
are,  and  notice  the  difference  which  exists  in  animaU  and 
productions.  Let  new  the  whole  of  the  northern  part  of 
this  continent  be  submerged,  and  after  a  long  time  he  again 
elevated  to  its  present  position,  and  let  future  generations 
examine  its  fossil  remainiv,  and  by  the  rules  very  general- 
ly laid  down,  would  they  not  conclude  that  tho  seotion  on 
the  east  side,  and  that  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains, 
indicate  two  different  periods  of  submersion,  and  tb»t  tb<u« 
was  a  long  intermediate  period  of  tranquility  batwryea  them  ? 
Would  not  the  different  gene/»  and  species  of  vegetables 
and  anUnals  lead  lutliis  oonclusioo?  ,  Wouldthey  not,  &oan 
the  evident  diffei^noe  of  teinpc^ituro  of  climate  in  the 
same  latitudes  on  the  east  and  'u  the  west,  conclude,  (if  there 
was  not  a  careful  searoh  mnia  for  other  raiarks  to  show 
disparity  or  identity  of  vi-'va. )  that  the  weelem  section  was 


■i'iiiii'ii>iiiiiijn#t!i> 


HMji 


rao&ooT. 


141 


ir»  and  ■paoiofl  of 
n  the  Muoae  period 
n«te,  or  in  corree- 
t  fomwtioM  might 
It  it  is  a  fautt  that 
plants  may  differ 
try,  age,  and  lat- 
iMsrioa,  on  the  east 
which  given  us  a 
n  relation  to  r«- 
elonging  to  difler- 
)ou8.  Yet  in  all 
want  of  it,  doubt- 
e  would  ooQvinoe 
lity  or  identity  in 

rioa  as  they  nov 
!8  in  animaU  aod 
northern  part  of 
}ng  time  ho  again 
Dture  generatuMM 
ilea  very  general* 
mt  tho  seotioQ  <m 
>f  the  mountainsi 
m,  and  that  tb<ijre 
ty  batwceB  them  ? 
les  of  vegetables 
>uld  they  not,  froon 
)t'  climate  in  the 
Bonclude,  (if  there 
r  snarka  to  show 
tatem  sectioo  waa 


•ubmerged,  at  a  period  when  the  earth  waa  much  wanner 

than  at  a  period  when  the  eastern  aeotion  was  submerged  7 

This  would  be  a  rational  and  legitimate  conclusion  from 

the  rule  that  in  strata  of  the  same  class,  dissimilar  organic 

remains  belong  to  a  diflfurent  (.Hod  of  time,  and  were  de* 

posited  under  a  different  condition  of  the  globe.     And  the 

gigantic  balsam  An  found  in  the  west  and  not  found  in  the 

east,  would  as  clearly  prove  a  ditibrent  climate  in  the  same 

latitude,  and  therefore  a  different  period  of  submersion,  aa 

tho  gigantic  ferns  prove  a  different  temperature  of  the  earth, 

and  of  oourse  a  difierent  period  of  timo,  in  which  they  were 

deposited. 

On  the  west  side,  the  enormous  baLy>/.n  firs,  measuring 

from  five  to  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  bt-iweeu  one  and  two 

hundred  feet  in  height,  would  be  found  so  numeroua  as  to 

vmstitttte  whole  forests  ;  and  also  the  alder  of  varioua  it- 

ameters,  from  the  small  to  those  of  one  foot,  and  proportioa- 

ably  tall ;  and  the  rush  varying  from  four  to  ten  &et  long, 

and  proportioaably  large.     While  the  fir,  the  alder,  and 

rush,  would  be  found  on  the  east  side,  they  would  be  mere 

dwarfii  in  oompariw^i  with  those  on  the  west,  and  alao  riy 

spafae.    And  many  genera  of  trees  and  plants  wou^  )w 

found  oa  one  side,  which  would  not  be  found  on  the  etiiar. 

On  the  west  there  would  be  no  walnut,  chestnut,  augar  i 

pie,  elm,  and  many  other  kind  of  trees.    And  of 

there  would  not  be  found  any  of  the  present  fossils  of  the 

east ;  nor  the  ox,  the  aas,  the  swine,  nor  common  sheep  ^tha 

bafihlo  would  be  found  east  and  in  the  mouatalna,  but  aat 

namerous  beyond.    To  what  strange  oonoluaiona,  without 

graat  care  and  cloae  exammation,  aheuld  we  oome,  if  au^ 

data  simply  were  received !    If  such  is  now  the  diffanaat 

of  vegetabiea  and  animals,  between  the  country  on  the  ( 

80 


m 


843 


gBOLO0T> 


•nd  the  country  on  the  west  of  our  oontinent,  and  in  th« 
Mm«  latitude,  may^ot  miatake*  be  made  in  regard  to  diffll* 
rent  formations,  and  different  periods  of  time  in  which  they 
have  talton  place.  Especially  when  periods  are  so  remote, 
and  theliiinute  exploration  of  the  earth  confined  to  so  small 
limits. 

No  doubts  need  be  indulged,  but  that  auoh  advances  may 
and  will  be  made  in  the  science  of  geology,  that  it  will  b«. 
eomo  one  of  the  strong  corroborating  evidences  of  the  inspU 
ration  of  the  scriptures,  without  departing  from  the  obvioua 
meaning  of  any  part  of  the  inspired  language.  The  boolia 
of  nature,  of  providence,  and  of  revelation  harmonize  ;  and 
it  is  owing  to  our  darkened  and  limited  understandings,  and 
the  imperfections  of  our  knowledge,  that  we  have  any  diffi* 
oulty  in  seeing  their  harmony ;  and  the  more  oorreot  knowl. 
edge  we  gain  of  them,  the  more  we  shall  eee  and  admire 
their  ooinoidenoe. 

Far  the  greatest  part  of  the  soil  of '  >regon  i«  formed  from 
deoompoced  lava  and  other  like  subetanoes,  reduced  by  at* 
moepheric  agenoiea,  which  forftis  a  "fine  rich  black -mold. 
Some  parts,  hovifever,  are  in  a  different  condition ;  such  •■ 
the^reat  dissert  of  the  Shoshones  or  Snake  country,  whioh 
Uee  betwc!( .,  two  ranges  of  mountains,  and  extenda  three 
hundred  or  more  miles  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  witk 
•D  average  width  of  about  one  hundred  milee.  This  desert, 
occupying  as  it  does  so  many  squartt  miles,  is  to  a  great 
ettent  covered  with  scoria  and  other  voloanio  knatter,  «-hieh 
ftom  their  nature  renders  it  a  barren  region.  Other  tnota 
of  country  are  argillaceous.  In  several  localities,  eeearp. 
ineots  of  day,  diveraified  in  structure,  are  presented.  Hm 
layers  are  from  a  few  inches,  to  twenty  feet  in  tbiokneee. 
Tiieir  colon  are  dusky  red,  brown,  blue,  green,  yellow, 


MMMiiM 


mmmtiimm 


utaMiiWiiiin  ■ 


OtOLOOT. 


inent,  and  in  \h» 
n  rcgsitl  to  difSt- 
ie  in  which  <h«y 
Is  are  ao  remote, 
ifined  to  lo  sinaU 

ih  advances  may 
f,  that  it  will  b«. 
ices  of  the  iniipi< 
Prom  the  obvious 
ige.  The  bookc 
harmonize  ;  and 
lerstandings,  and 
e  have  any  diffi* 
«  correct  knowl. 
flee  and  admira 

a  ia  formed  from 
I,  reduced  by  at* 
ich  black -mold, 
idition ;  such  as 
I  country,  whioh 
id  extends  threa 
y  direction,  witk 
ee.  This  desert, 
!8,  is  to  a  great 
lie  inattsr,  vhieli 
n.  Other  tnott 
Doalities,  eeoarp> 
presented.  The 
let  in  tbioknees- 
,  greeni  yellow, 


liUMDilllill  ■ 


and  in  somo  iniitances  pure  white,  and  not  unfrequently 
more  or  leas  induratod.  Btill,  other  tracU  are  oaloarious ; 
and  some  part*,  especially  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are 
covered  with  a  siMcious  sand,  mixed  with  volcanio  detritus; 
while  few,  and  only  few  parts  of  the  country  afford  vegeta< 
ble  mold. 

By  reference  to  the  map  between  Okanagan  and  Walla 
Walla,  the  dotted  line,  as  will  be  seen,  describes  the  Grand 
Coul^.  By  some  cause,  probably  volcanic,  the  Columbia 
liM  been  turned  from  its  ancient  bed,  and  made  to  take  ft 
new  and  more  circuitous  course.  The  old  channel  hiui  isl. 
ands  rising  above  what  was  once  the  level  of  the  water  ; 
and  as  previously  mentioned,  high  mural  escarpments  are 
found  OB  its  sides.  • 

Another  fact  worthy  to  be  mentioned,  is  the  subsidence  on 
the  Columbia,  •  It  is  twenty  or  more  miles  long,  and  about 
a  mile  wide.     See  page  142. 

What  I  suppose  to  be  another  subsidence  occurs  on  the 
summit  level  which  divides  the  waters  of  the  Snake  and 
Spokein  rivers.     See  page  205. 

Rivers  are  found  which  disappear  and  again  reappear 
from  under  volcanic  products,  which  is  no  new  phenomena 
in  other  volcanic  countries.  Two  such  rivers  are  put  down 
on  the  map  south  of  Henry's  Fork. 

Limestone  does  not  abound  here ;  indeed  it  is  questions* 
ble  whether  it  exists  except  in  very  deUched  and  small 
quantities.  One  location  of  magnesian  limestone,  I  observ. 
ed  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Sulphur  Spring,  which  I  have 
already  described.  The  lime  used  at  Fort  Vancouver,  is 
made  of  rock  coral,  imported  for  ballast  in  vessels  return- 
ing from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Sul< 
phur  Spring  was  a  quantity,  though  i  >t  very  extensive,  of 


m 


Mmmmtmm 


AIOL4MT. 

*  K^pMO*  1^*  °°^y  marbU  I  mMiced  wu  a  mounUia  dtu* 
•Uid  •  •h<)rt  diatanofl  below  Um  oonfluflnaa  of  tb«  Bpokcin 
with  th«  ColumbM.  In  p«rta  which  I  •x«inine<i,  I  di«ooT*r- 
•d  It  to  b«  MM)ohkrln«  whll«,  ftnd  varief[«tad  blu*.  A  tpt- 
flinMn  of  th«  Arat  I  iuive  preaonred.  Hitusted  M  It  ia  oa  • 
navigftble  river,  it  will  iiKwt  probably  become  in  tin*  • 
aouroe  of  wealth. 

In  the  region  of  Pierre'*  Hole,  and  etil)  ikrther  weet,  there 
ia  elinketone  of  marlied  and  diitinotive  character,  in  great 
abundanee,  and  in  the  aame  vicinity  obsidian  in  large  quaa- 
^tiM.  Prom  the  dark  color  of  this,  and  aluo  of  baaklt  gen< 
•rally,  I  detected  tlie  presence  of  augite.  Obsidian  is  found 
in  very  many  places  throughout  the  country  ;  and  towards 
the  ocean  tu  small  quantities  it  is  a  resinous  white. 

Lava  is  abundaiu  in  many  places,  in  all  tba  vmriatias  of 
color  in  which  it  is  usually  found,  sometimes  dusky  red, 
yellowish,  gray,  and  black,  of  different  degrees  of  hardnsss 
and  gravity,  some  being  compact,  nome  cellular,  and  oftan 
so  light  as  to  float  upon  water.  Trachyte  is  also  fcuac! 
among  the  varieties  of  lava. 

Most  of  the  varieties  of  the  precious  stones,  such  as  oal- 
oedcny,  agate,  jasper,  and  comaliaa,  are  fcand  in  difih 
rent  sections  3f  the  country,  but  more  fret^  leatly  upon  Um 
shores  of  th««  Columh|«,  Willamette,  and  thft  lai]^e  blanches 
of  tliMs  rivers  While  they  vary  in  siu,  fenas,  and  ooiors, 
maay  of  them  are  very  pure  and  beautiAil,  and  might  be 
imprevad  to  gM»at  brilliancy  in  the  hands  of  tke  artist.  Por. 
phyry  of  difihrent  textures  and  quality  is  flrequently  met  with, 
scene  of  which  resembles  the  precious  stones  In  fineness. 

I  saw  no  antltraoite  coal  after  leaving  the  r«gk»  of  ths 
Black  Hills  oi)  the  east  of  the  noontains  ;  Utvminous  ooal, 
of  which  I  saw  a  quantity,  is  obtaioed^frotn  a  locality 


liii«Wiii 


itkuiimiiim 


•aOLMT. 


845 


I  mounUia  iitU'- 
of  Um)  8pok«in 
inod,  I  dkooT«r- 
I  blu«.  A  tf' 
t«d  aa  it  is  on  • 
joiiw  in  tiM*  • 

th«r  weat,  llmf 
tractor,  in  graat 
1  in  large  quaa- 

0  of  baaalt  gen» 
baidlian  ia  fouMi 
f ;  and  toward* 

1  white. 

the  Tariatiaa  of 
mea  duaky  rad, 
Bea  of  hardoaaa 
lubur,  and  oftan 
I  ia  alao  fcuad 

aa,  auch  aa  oal- 
foand  in  difis 
leatly  upon  Um 
lai](^  bimnohaa 
iaa,and  ooion, 
,  and  might  ba 
tKeartiat.  Por. 
lOntly  mat  with, 
tin  finanaaa. 
I  nfioo  of  th« 
itvminoua  ooal, 
rotn  a  tooality 


naar  Pugata  Sound,  and  brought  (br  uaa  to  Port  Vanoou. 
ver. 

It  ia  aa  ifltoraating  faot,  that  Mineral  Rook  Salt  axiata  in 
iU  natira  Mata,  in  a  aaotion  of  nK»unUlna  on  lh«  fiouih  aid* 
of  the  Salmon  rivar,  belbrn  nntaring  the  Salmon  river  moun. 
Uini.  It  cropa  out  from  the  aide  of  a  mountain,  a  little 
above  the  baae.  I  aaw  the  mine  and  examined  apeoimena  of 
it,  and  took  of  it  for  Aiture  uao.  It  is  pure  and  white,  and 
oonlaina  leiw  of  the  water  of  nrystalization  than  -common 
■alt.  The  geologioal  formationa  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
■o  nearly  reaemble  thoee  deaorihed  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  mineral  aalt  mines  of  Poland,  aa  to  induce  the  belief  that 
it  exiata  in  great  abundance.  It  waa  peculiarly  grateful  to 
me  in  the  circumatanoea  in  which  I  waa  placed,  and  the  beat 
testimony  I  can  give  to  the  quality  is,  that  I  found  it  vary 
uaaful  when  eompelled  to  subaiat  on  gama^ 

Salt  ia  alao  found  in  a  oryatalized  state  upon  the  aherea  of 
the  goat  Salt  Lake,  the  watera  of  which  are  so  strongly 
impregnated,  that  large  quantitiea  are  depeaited  How  wise 
and  kind  is  the  disposition  of  the  produota  of  nature,  and 
how  well  adapted  to  the  wanta  of  all  hia  oreaturca  haa  the 
hand  of  a  beneficent  Father  diatributed  hia  bleaalnga  ;  and 
(•are,  at  so  grekC  a  remove  from  all  the  facilities  of  com< 
meroe  (e  haa  laid  up  in  atore  one  of  the  moat  neoeaaary 
and  important  artiolea  of  domeatio  nae. 

Bat  few  Mlheral  Springs  have  aa  yet  been  diacovered. 

The  most  remarkable  are,  the  Soda  fountain  on  Bear  river, 

about  forty-five  railea  north  of  Salt  Lake,  remarkable  for  the 

qmntity  of  oarbonib  acid  gaa  which  ia  evolved,  but  not  hav* 

ing  been  analysed,  ita  particular  mineral  propertiea  are  not 

ascertained,  and  the  general  remark  only  can  be  made,  that 

it  greatly,  reaembles  the  Siratoga  watera ; — the  Sulphur 

ZO* 


HP 


84n 


mmoUmif. 


Spring  10  (Im  Muth  of  tha  TVois  TeUmi,  on  •  brmnoh  of  Ham 
ry'i  (brk,  around  which  Urg«  qu*ntltif>a  of  pun  sulphur  »tm 
dapodtad,  and  (Vom  which  iirilphuratad  hydrogen  eaoapaa, 
and  its  annoying  pniparticu)  arti  p«roeplibl«)  mora  than  eighty 
roda  distant ;— and  the  hot  springs  in  the  great  range  of  th« 
Rooky  Mountains,  soma  of  which  ara  said  to  iVimish  Um 
moumain  man  a  oonTaniant  place  to  boil  their  food. 

Sulphate  ot  magnesia,  (epaom  salts,)  purely  native,  aii^ 
In  immansa  quantitiea  in  and  on  both  sitUia  of  the  mounUina. 
Lakaa  or  pools,  which  the  heat  of  summer  principally  evap. 
oratea,  abound  In  thk  region,  eihibiting  cryMtalisad  salts  in 
graat  quanthkia.  Spioular  crystals  of  tha  ftma  salt  shoot 
up  on  tHa  surlkoo  of  the  ground,  and  efllorssoa  to  such  a 
daf  ra«  M  to  prtMat  the  appaanuioa  of  Aokb  whitmad  with 
•now. 

No  Indications  of  Matalio  Ores  have  yat  baan  notioad  in 
any  pMt  of  Oregon  Territory  ;  and  probably  whoa  matals 
ars  found,  tbay  will  not  be  in  their  oxyda,  bat  raduoad  by 
tha  iniMM  boat  of  tfw  voloaiioaa  to  Jwir  tmmiu  alato. 


WIUMM— mWgilwKniw  I IHiMUMgi 


A 


»  branch  of  IUii> 
pur*  sulphur  mn 
rdrogen  eaoapM, 
mora  than  eighty 
r««t  range  of  th« 
Id  to  i\imiah  the 
heir  Ibod. 
r«ljr  natlvfl,  eiitt* 
i)f  tha  mountaiiw. 
prinoipally  evap- 
yMtaiiaad  aalta  ia 
•  fama  mU  ahoot 
oraaofl  to  auoh  a 
Ida  whitenad  with 

It  baan  noUoad  in 
ibly  whoa  maUla 
,  bat  reduoad  bj 


asneauii.  ssa^sts. 


MV 


CTIAPTER  XXIV. 

Omaral  ranarlu -{>»••(•  in  tb*  itakm-ahip  U««var  down  lb*  rivM— 
Uk«  pMMff*  on  board  tb«  b»r<{u«  Columbi*  -  dcUnlion  In  Cbcnook 
bay-(rmt  otva-Codlbh,  tb«  Ural  av«r  taken  In  Ibb  bay. 

R%viNo  explorad  tha  moat  important  parU  of  thla  tenri- 
tory,  and  gained  all  the  inrurination  within  my  roach,  as  to 
tha  asvaral  objwta  proposed  in  my  instructions  from  the 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions ;  and  especially  having  ascer- 
tained to  my  entire  salisfaotion  two  moat  prominent  fiuits, 
namely,  the  entire  praotioability  of  penetrsting  with  safety 
to  any  ^nd  every  portion  of  the  vast  interior,  and  the  dispo- 
sition of  the  nativee  in  regard  to  my  mission  among  them, 
it  remainad  that  tha  most  feaaible  and  expeditious  mode  of 
returning  ahould  next  be  ooasultad.  I  oould  expect  to  ac- 
quire but  little  additional  knowledge  In  traversing  the  route 
to  Reodecvous ;  and  tha  ueoesaary  delay  of  several  months, 
it  aeeraad  could  be  avoided  by  a  return  by  water.  The 
Hodson  Bay  Company  were  about  to  send  a  ship  to  tho 
Sandwich  IsUnds,  in  which  I  waa  kindly  offered  a  gra- 
MiiloOa  pMsage.  On  the  other  hand,  my  IHendi^ip  with 
gantlaman  of  thia  establUhment,  my  regard  for  the  spiritual 
waliafa  of  tha  benighted  men,  for  whoae  good,  I  had  fcr 
Many  a  weary  day  puraued  my  object  over  mountains  and 
plaina,  hilla  a«d  valleys,  through  all  the  vioiasitudes  of  cli- 
mate and  weather ;  and  eapecially  a  deaire  to  see  in  this 
whitanMl  field,  tha  returning  lahorsn  I  expected,  and  to  be 


r^ 


-)  iiui -Hiiiiimi.-W I. 11.  iiliWWW8Wil<SilWggiia»iBIWi»it'iiiiiiiriiuWUW^ 


848 


SKVLlCTIOIfS. 


able  to  give  them  personally,  instead  of  by  letter,  the  result 
of  my  collected  information-,  as  a  guide  to  them  in  their  in- 
oipient  labors  ;  all  these  held  me  riveted  to  the  spot,  and  un- 
decided as  to  my  course.  At  length  after  consultation  with 
my  most  judicious  friends,  I  concluded  to  take  passage  in 
the  barque  Columbia  for  Oahu,  in  the  hope  that  an  early 
opportunity  would  present  to  return  to  the  United  States. 

In  taking  leave  of  this  country  and  the  work  ih  which  I* 
have  so  long  been  engaged,  a  train  of  reflections  crowds 
upon  my  mind.  The  future  condition  of  this  noble  race  of 
men,  is  a  subject  of  interesting  enquiry  to  many  others  as 
well  as  to  myself.  Whether  the  Indians  are  to  pass  away 
beford  the  increasing  power  and  numbers  of  white  men,  or 
whether  enlightened  and  improved  by  their  philanthropy, . 
they  shall  arise  in  the  scale  of  intelTectuat  and  moral  ex« 
istence,  is  a  problem  which  time  alone  can  solv*.  I  ettimtA 
on  the  work  of  exploring  this  field  with  no  bias  or  prebon* 
oeived  opinion,  and  from  critical  and  personal  observation," 
I  hesitate  not  io  say  that  I  ran  see  no  reason  existing  in  the 
nature  of  tilings,  or  in  their  present  condition,  which  ne- 
cessarily dooms  the  race  to  annihilation  on  the  mie  hand,  or 
on  the  other,  necessarily  makes  them  objects  of  apprehen- 
sion, as  the  future  hordes  who  shall  in  coming  time,  like  the 
noTthem  barbariians  of  Roman  dinys^  be  reserved  as  the 
aootlrge  of  an  overgrownand  d^aying  republic.  If  to  do 
good  be  an  object  worthy-  of  Humanity  or  religimi,  I  eee  not 
why  a  consistent  and  perseveriiig  attempt  to  raise  a  race  of 
f^men  from  their  dtepression,  and  to  place  th'nn  in  thiAi 
rank  of  intelligent  men,  be  cot  aii  uodertaking  fruught  wMi 
as  much  promise  and  encouragement,  as  it  was  in  earlier 
dkys  toelevate  our  anoectora.  In  fkvor  of  this  opinion,  w« 
have  the  dccilhy  of  the  IndJans  in  ••Tory  thing  pertaining 


HHi 


iitimojii 


liBiiiiiwyi 


BiliHHiiiiiriK^ 


iiimniW* 


■MffPIMPPIIHimMM 


uruKnon. 


letter,  the  result 
hem  in  their  in- 
ihe  spot,  and  un- 
lonsultaticm  with 
take  passage  in 
e  that  an  early 
[Jnited  States, 
rork  in  which  I' 
flections  crowds 
lis  noble  race  of 
many  others  as 
^re  to  pass  awtty 
f  white  men,  or 
lir  philanthropy, 
it  and  moral  ex- 
[>Iv«.  I  entorvd 
bias  or  preoon- 
mal  obserration, 
a  existing  in  the 
ition,  which  ae- 
the  <Hie  hand,  or 
ts  of  apprehen- 
ng  time,  like  the 
reserrod  as  the 
ublio.  If  to  do 
sligimi,  I  see  not 
o  raise  a  race  of 
ice  th'nn  in  th« 
ing  ftuught  wHli 
t  was  in  earlier 
this  opinion,  we 
thing  pertaining 


to  their  improTcment ;  in  the  sprightliness  of  their  youth 
and  children  ;  and  in  the  amiableness  of  their  native  tem- 
pers and  dispositions.  I  take  nothing  of  this  upon  testimony. 
In  all  my  intercourse  with  them,  I  saw  with  only  one  ex- 
ception, no  angry  or  malevolent  passions  in  exercise  in  their 
little  communities. 

I  tremble  for  the  consequences,  when  I  reflect  on  the 
wrongs  inflicted  upon  this  race  of  men.  Able  pens  have 
portrayed  in  vivid  colors,  their  injuries  and  abuses,  and  hu- 
manity has  wept.  Were  but  the  one  hundredth  part  spread 
out  to  view,  we  should  recoil  at  the  siglit.  The  life  of  an 
Indian,  in  the  estimation  of  our  border  and  refugee  men 
who  visit  their  oountry,  is  nothing  worth.  Theirs  is  a 
land  where  white  men  regard  no  law  ;  but  superior  cun- 
ning and  superior  force  bear  rule.  It  was,  related  to  roe 
that  Captain  l|.  an  English  ofiicer  in  half  pay,  while  trav- 
eling%rough  the  Indian  oountry,  lost  a  horse  which  he 
highly  viriued,  auJ  believing  it  to  be  stolen  by  an  Indian, 
oflbred  five  hundred  dollars  for  his  head.  One  of  a  law. 
less  band,  a  half  Indian  who  was  present,  went  in  pursuit, 
and  returned  with  the  head  of  the  perstTi  charged  with 
the  theft,  and  demanded  his  reward^  To  make  out  the 
sum  Captain  S.  gave  him  two  horses,  calling  each  id50t 
Thus  ^uied  the  a&ir.  Mr.  Wyeth,  in  a  memoir,  em- 
bodied in  a  Report  of  a  Conunittee  of  Congress,  on  the 
OragOD  questicHi,  says,  «  The  preponderance  of  bad  char- 
acter is  so  great  amongst  traders  and  their  people,  that 
crime  carries  with  it  little  or  no  shame.  I  have  heardlt 
related  anKMig  white  American  trappers,  as  a  good  joke, 
that  ft  tnq^T  who  had  said  he  would  shoot  any  Indian, 
whom  he  ooald  catch  stealing  his  tn^w,  was  seen  009  morn- 
ing to  kill  one ;  and,  00  being  asked  if  the  Indian  had  sto. 


mii 


MM 


mm^mmmHimmm'mmmmmmm 


860 


DBPARTUBB   FOB   SANDWICH   ISLANDS. 


/' 


len  his  traps,  he  answered  "  No,  but  he  looked  as  if  he  was 
going  to."     These  are  only  specimens. 

I  havo  been  much  pleased  to  notice  amoug  the  benevolent 
operations  of  the  present  day,  the  formation  of  a  society  in 
England,  which  I  regarii  as  among  not  the  least  benevolent, 
viz :  "An  Aborigines  Protection  Society,"  from  whose  "  Plan 
and  Objects,"  I  quote,  as  expressing  very  fully  my  own  sen- 
timents.  "  Among  these  tribes,  our  imported  diseases  pro- 
duce  frightful  ravages,  our  ardent  spirits  deprave  and  con- 
8un.e  their  population,  our  unjust  laws  exclude  them  from 
enjoying  that  first^lement  of  well-ordered  societies,  judicial 
protection,  as  well  as  from  the  possibility  of  a  timely  inror- 
poration  with  colonial  communities;  while,  in  additio..  to 
all  these  evils,  our  neglect  of  suitable  means  and  methods 
of  iiaprovement,  prevents  that  adoption  of  civilized  manners 
and  customs  to  which  they  are  inclined.  It  is  impossible 
for  us  as  men,  patriots,  philanthropists,  or  Christian^^  be- 
hold without  anxiety,  the  ruin  of  the  people  whom  we  are 
accessary  in  supplanting,  unless  our  future  modes  of  colo- 
nizatbn  be  directed  with  greater  humanity  and  wisdom  than 
in  times  past." 

On  the  18th  of  Juno,  according  to  previous  arrangements, 
I  took  passage  in  the  steam-ship  Beaver  for  Fort  George, 
to  join  the  barque  Columbia  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  As 
the  Beaver  was  commenoing  her  first  voyage  upon  the 
Pacific,  under  the  power  of  steam,  destined  for  the  north* 
west  coast,  the  people  of  the  fort,  and  those  residing  around, 
assembled  upon  ib»  shore  of  the  Columbia,  and  as  she  moved 
majestically  from  her  anchorage,  they  saluted  us  with  cheers, 
which  were  reciprocated  by  all  on  board,  and  they  respontkd, 
"  A  happy  voyage,  a  prosperous  voyage."  The  ship  an- 
ohored  at  night  a  little  above  Tongue  Point ;  and  tbo  luxt 


<M 


MM««PMMH*WMMiNiwiMi|it! 


.AMDS. 

)oked  as  if  he  wm 

tug  the  benevolent 
on  of  a  society  in 
)  least  benevolent, 
from  whose  "  Plan 
fully  my  own  »en- 
irted  diseases  pro- 
deprave  and  con' 
Kclude  them  from 
I  societies,  judicial 
of  a  timely  innor- 
lile,  in  additio..  to 
leans  and  methods 
civilized  manners 
.  It  is  impossible 
r  Christiani^  be> 
)ple  whom  we  are 
ire  modes  of  colo« 
y  and  wisdom  than 

ous  arrangements, 
r  for  Fort  Geoige, 
nrioh  Islands.  As 
voyage  upon  the 
led  for  the  north* 
le  residing  around, 
,  and  as  she  moved 
ited  us  with  cheers, 
Ad  they  respond, 
."  The  ahip  an. 
int;  and  tbd  next 


iL 


■MM 


OBBAT  OAVB. 

day,  after  being  detained  upon  a  sand  bar,  from  which  the 
tide  after  awhile  set  us  free,  we  arrived  at  Fort  George. 
The  next  day,  the  20th,  with  my  friend  Mr.  Finlayson,  and 
a  few  others  I  took  a  ramble  on  the  shores  below.  The  ver- 
dure of  the  trees  and  plants,  the  red  indigenous  clover  in  full 
sweetness  in  the  desert,  and  the  mildness  of  the  season,  all 
combined  to  make  the  scene  enchanting.  It  was  on  the  dhore 
of  this  bay  where  I  collected  the  large  bivalve  shell  petri< 
factions,  embedded  in  calcarious  sandstone  of  the  Tertiary 
formation,  as  described  in  the  chapter  foregoing.  No  vol- 
canic appearances  were  visible  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

On  the  21st,  I  embarked  on  board  the  Columbia,  and 
we  dropped  down  to  the  Chenook  fiay,  and  anchored  just 
above  Cape  Disappointment.  Here,  for  the  want  of  favor* 
able  wind  and  tide,  we  were  detained  until  the  28th.  While 
we  continued  here,  I  made  several  excursions  on  shore ;  as* 
oendeff  the  cape,  which  is  probably  about  four  hundred'feet 
high,  and  from  which  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Pacific  and  ita 
shores  is  presented  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  shore 
is  generally  bold  and  roeky,  furnishing  no  other  harbor 
near.  The  country  around  is  rocky  and  densely  covered 
with  forests,  and  the  scenery  is  wild.  Near  the  shore,  on 
the  west  end  of  the  cape,  a  large  cave  extends  into  the  vol* 
canic  rocks  ^e  distance  of  o.ie  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  We 
pe&etrated  into  its  gloomy  recesses,  and  from  the  bones  of 
animals  strewed  around  witliin,  we  concluded  it  must  be 
the  retreat  of  some  of  those  beasts  of  prey  which  inhabit 
these  forests,  and  coasts.  (. 

About  the  cape,  at  different  places,  grow  the  large  or- 
ange*yelIow  raspberries,  of  a  new  species,  upon  shrubbery 
which  often  grows  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet,  and  more 
generally  in  the  forests  than  in  the  open  places,  but  equally 


■MMiili 


tytm^ 


852 


oosrini. 


fniitful.    They  are  mora  iaviOag  to  the  eye  than  agreea- 
ble to  the  tasto. 

While  we  were  detained  here,  our  men  belonging  to  the 
C!olutnbift  caught  a  largo  number  of  codAsh.  In  taato  and 
appeataaoe,  they  very  much  resemble  those  taken  upon  the 
banks  of  Newfoundland,  excepting  they  are  a  little  shorter. 
This  is  the  first  time  they  we;«  known  to  exist  in  theee  wa- 
ters ;  the  Indians  knew  nothing  of  them  before,  and  they 
eagerly  took  those  we  did  not  need. 


iiWiiiMi 


wmm* 


VOTASB  TO  OAIO. 


SM 


By*  thao  agraea- 

I  bel(Mnging  to  the 
kflh.  In  tMte  and 
Me  taken  upon  the 
re  a  little  shorter, 
exist  in  theae  wa- 
before,  and  they 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Deputure  for  the  Sanawioh  Island*— Arrlvml  at  the  Itltndt— wonhip 
in  the  native  church— deacription  of  Oabu~tho  Pari— the  valley 
of  Mauoa— deeoription  of  Honolulu -of  Waillti— heathen  temple 
— Eva— Waialua— Xeneohe— raountaina-aolt  lake— natural  pie. 
dnotiont— animala— g-  Tnment--tea  party  of  the  royal  (kMUy~ 
dinner  to  tho  oiBoera  oi  tne  Pcaeook  and  Enterprim— doereaaa  of 
population— unfair  negotiations— foreign  i«sldente— charily  eohool 
— eeamen't  chapel— burying  place  of  the  royal  fiunily— nkai«a*>  ^ 

7' 


Om  the  25th,  the  bar  being  smooth,  with  aly  a  light  wind, 
though  ahead,  and  the  tide  favoring,  the  Beaver  waiglMid 
anchor  and  put  out  to  sea  for  her  northern  voyage.  She 
went  over  the  bar  finely,  and  could  have  towed  tia  ovar, 
but  it  bebig  her  first  experiment,  it  was  not  thought  ad« 
viaable. 

On  Tuesday  the  38th,  the  wind  and  tide  were  ftiVOTaUtt 
for  passing  the  bar,  and  we  set  sail  at  half  past  three  in  the 
afternoon.  There  was  a  keav;  rolling  sea ;  and  avaiy  turn 
was  at  his  post,  one  on  each  side  of  the  ship  ooostaatly  thrOTT* 
ing  the  lead  to  take  the  sounding.  Four  fathoms  and  a  half 
was  the  lei^,  and  this  was  little  enough  ooaddoring  the 
heavy  swell.  The  bar  has  a  very  bold  termination;  fcr 
w*  paastNl  from  seven  fathoms  to  no  sounding,  whera  the 
sea  •resei'i*  '"*!»  l^rk  blue.  The  land  receded,  and  te  a 
few  hour*  *r  ;>rieared  j  and  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  one 
wide  expu  w  of  ocean.    Our  voyage  to  Oahu,*  Sandwich 


«  Pronounced  Wauhoo. 
81 


* iiiiniiii 


l*3afe(«MNBBMMH 


MMMMwwsK' 


t'jiii.n  in 


i[npwwwi<imwinii!iiiiii.  '■< 


ie4 


AKtlTAL  AT  OAIV. 


lalands,  wm  attended  with  nothing  remarkable,  except- 
ing that  it  was  performed  in  muoh  shorter  time  than  usual, 
>>«ing  only  sixteen  days  iVom  the  time  we  left  the  Colum- 
i>ia  river,  to  our  anohoring  in  the  roads  of  Honolulu.  We 
took  our  direct  ooui-se,  and  kept  it  without  any  variation, 
and  with  a  few  exoeptione  without  shortening  a  sail,  the 
distance  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles.  An  almost 
entire  uniformity  marked  our  progress,  and  excepting  the 
oon-vm  alternations  of  day  and  night,  sunshine  and  clouds, 
nothlug  interrupted  the  monotony  of  the  scene. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  of  July,  land  was  announced. 
>Thp  islands  of  Ranai  and  Morakai  were  ndar,  an4  as  we 
passed  them,  we  had  a  near  view  of  the  latter.  It  is  not 
ao  mountainous  as  most  others  of  the  group,  and  presented 
rather  a  sterile  aspect.  We  soon  after  made  Oahu,  and 
paned  on  the  east  side  around  Diamond  Hill  to  the  harbor 
of  Honolulu  on  the  south.  This  harbor  is  the  best  and 
aLoaoat  the  unly  good  one  in  any  of  the  groups  of  the  Poly- 
nesian Islands.  The  entrance  is  somewhat  intricate,  and 
an  experienced  pilot  is  required  to  take  ships  in  safely. 
Within  tlie  coral  reefs  the  water  is  sufficiently  deep  for 
ships  of  almost  any  magnitude;  and  this,' with  the  IcMog 
extended  roads  without  the  r«e&  which  afibrd  good  anchor- 
age, renders  the  port  desirable,  and  the  island,  in  a  com- 
maroial  point  of  view,  the  most  important  of  any  in  this  part 
of  the  Pacific  ocean. 

.  We  went  on  shore,  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  I 
was  invited  by  Rev.  H.  Bingham  to  his  house,  where  I  met 
aaToml  of  the  other  missionaries,  and  felt  much  rejoiced 
to  behold  again  a  Christian  community. 

The  iieat  of  a  vertical  sun  was  very  oppressive  and  ener. 
vating,  and  was  it  not  for  the  refreshing  efieots  of  the  daily 


HiMiiiiiiMiiiMM 


m^mm 


MMi 


irkable,  except- 
iine  than  usual, 
leA  the  Col  una- 
Hoaolulu.  We 
t  any  variation, 
atng  a  sail,  the 
lea.  An  almost 
d  excepting  the 
ihine  and  clouds, 
ene. 

was  announced, 
ndar,  an4  as  we 
atter.  It  is  not 
>,  and  presented 
nade  Oahu,  and 
:ill  to  the  harbor 
is  the  best  and 
>ups  of  the  Poly- 
lat  intricate,  and 
shipe  in  safely, 
oiently  deep  for 
!,'with  the  l(Mtig 
>rd  good  anchor- 
iland,  in  a  com- 
r  any  in  this  p«rt 

afternoon,  and  I 
ue,  where  I  met 
I  much  rejoiced 

ressive  and  ener. 
feotsofthe  daily 


rVBLIC  WORSHir — THK  PAII. 


8M 


north-east  trade  winds,  it  would  be  insupportable  to  a  north- 
ern constitution. 

On  Sabbath  17th,  I  attended  worship  in  the  native  church, 
and  heard  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham  preach  in  the  Hawaiian  lan- 
guage to  a  very  large  assembly  of  natives,  probably  two 
thousand  five  hundred,  who  gave  very  good  attention.  They 
were  all  decently  dressed;  while  some  of  them  wore  in  the 
European  mode,  the  most  of  them  were  dressed  in  their  na- 
tive costume,  and  made  a  good  appearance.  Their  conduct  - 
and  attention  were  very  beoomii^,  and  many  listened  with 
deep  interest.  Madam  Kinau,  the  queen  regent,  and  the 
royal  family,  were  present ;  and  although  it  was  easy  to 
distinguish  them  from  the  common  people,  yet  they  made 
no  ostentatious  display  of  royalty.  The?r  dress  was  rich, 
but  plain,  and  they  paid  sober  attention  to  the  worship  of 
Grid.  The  perfonn§nce  of  the  singers  was  good,  but  there 
was  not  tlutt  melody  in  their  voices  which  characterize*.  liM 
Indians. 

The  house  of  worship  is  lerge  er  \  <«mmodiou8,  one  hun- 
dred and  ninety  feet  long  and  aiztv.f^f*,  fmt  wid<?,  built  in 
the  native  style,  with  the  roof  and  sides  oovdred  with  thatch. 

Oahu  is  the  most  northern  of  the  Sandwieh  Islands,  situa- 
ted in  north  latitude  21°  18'  and  in  west  longitude  158" 
S6'.  Its  greatest  length  is  forty.five  miles  from  Koka  on 
the  south-east  to  Kakana  on  the  north-west.  The  greatest 
portion  of  the  island  is  on  the  north-east  of  this  line.  Its 
greatest  breadth  is  twenty-e^ht  miles  from  Kahuku  on  the 
north  to  Laeloa  (Barber's  Point)  on  the  south ;  about  fi>ur- 
fiiUis  of  the  island  is  on  the  east  of  this  line.  The  island 
is  very  mountainous ;  the  highest  eminence  is  called  Hona- 
huanui,  and  is  a  little  over  four  thousand  feet.  The  Pari, 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  of  Nuuanu^  north  of  H<»io- 


mmmmtHtt 


J 


wmmmmMiMimmtm 


m 


IM 


Disiirn  a&TTLi. 


lulu,  may  be  counted  among  the  ouriosities  of  the  ialand  ; 
principally  on  account  of  ita  being  a  part  of  the  main 
road,  or  rather  the  only  one  to  Keneohe.  It  ia  one  thou- 
aand  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  tea, 
and  six  hundred  foot  nearly  perpendicular.  This  i»  to  ba 
clambered  up  and  down  in  pawing  from  Honolulu  to  Kone* 
hoe,  and  to  a  stranger  it  ia  a  fearful  undertaking,  aa  it  ia 
neceaaary  to  have  a  native  to  awist  in  putting  your  feet  into 
the  creviofle  of  the  rooks.  And  yet  the  natives  pass  up  and 
down  wilii  their  calabashes  of  poi,  and 'their  loads  of  mel- 
MM,  fish,  and  other  commodities,  without  any  difficulty  mora 
than  &tigue. 

Some  years  ago,  in  a  war  between  Tamehameha  and  tha 
king  of  Oahu,  the  Anal  battle  was  fought  here  which  decided 
th«  &t«  of  the  island.  The  king  of  Oahu  made  a  desperate 
struggle ;  and  one  part  of  his  routed  army,  numbering  more 
than  three  hundred,  were  pursued  to  this  precipice,  fbroed 
down,  and  almost  all  were  dashed  to  pieces. 

On  each  side  of  this  pass,  needle-pointed  mounUins  rise 
up  two  thousand  feet,  forming  a  narrow  chasm,  through 
which  the  north-east  trade  winds  rush  with  great  violence. 
Balbre  you,  at  the  north,  you  have  a  very  pleasing  view  of 
the  fertile  valley  of  Kolou ;  and  beyond  is  a  fine  prsapect 
of  the  bay  and  wide  spread  ocean.  The  valley  between  the 
Pari  and  Honolulu  is  seven  miles  long ;  the  upper  part  of 
which  is  narrow  and  very  picturesque.  Interesting  cas- 
oadea  are  seen  dashing  down  the  almost  perpendicular 
mountains,  luid  the  whole  scenery  is  covered  with  fi^h 
foliage.  This  was  almost  the  only  place  where  the  cool  and 
invigorating  breezes  gave  me  relief  from  the  oppressive  heat. 
The  lower  part  of  the  valley  is  wide,  and  uoverod  to  a  great 
extent  with  taro  patches. 


tm 


^tmn 


TALLir  Of   HANOA. 


S6T 


M  of  the  ialand  ; 
krt  of  the  m»in 
It  k  one  thou- 
level  of  the  tee, 
■.  This  in  to  be 
Dnolulu  to  Kene- 
irtaking,  m  it  in 
ng  your  feet  into 
lives  p«u  up  and 
sir  loaJa  of  mel- 
y  diffioulty  more 

shanieha  and  the 
re  which  decided 
made  a  desperate 
numbering  more 
precipice,  forced 

98. 

i  mountains  rise 
chaem,  through 
h  great  violence, 
ploasing  view  of 
8  a  fine  prsepeot 
lUey  between  the 
he  upper  part  of 
Interesting  cas- 
3t  perpendicular 
vered  with  fi^h 
here  the  cool  and 
B  oppressive  heat, 
joverod  to  a  great 


Taro  ia  a  bulbous  plant  of  the  genus  arum,  and  is  planted 
in  hills  upon  patches  of  ground,  so  formed  as  to  be  partially 
flooded  with  water,  somewhat  after  the  manner  of  rice  ouU 
tivation.  In  eight  or  ten  months  afler  setting  the  plants, 
they  are  fit  for  use.  To  prep«re  it  for  food,  it  is  always  ne- 
cessary  to  roast  it,  to  take  out  the  pungency  which  is  common 
to  this  genua,  as  found  in  the  wild  tumep.  It  is  frequently 
eaten  (br  bread  with  no  other  preparation  except  roasting ; 
or  it  ia  converted  into  poi  by  pulverising  and  making  it  into 
a  stiff  paste.  The  natives  prefer  the  poi  aAer  it  has  under, 
gone  the  aoetiu  fermentation. 

Bast  of  this  valley  is  another  called  Manoa,  about  Ave 
miles  in  letigth,  running  north  from  Diamond  Hill.  It  ia 
well  watered  by  streams  descemling  from  the  mountains, 
formed  by  shower*  of> rain  which  freqaently  fell  upon  them, 
and  whioh  •o.netime*  extend  lb  the  valley*  and  plains.  Its 
fertile  soil' is  weli'oultivated  with  sweet  potatoes,  taro,  and 
melons.  At  the  upper  end,  Kaahumanu,  the  late  queen  re. 
gent,  who  died  in  1683,  had  a  house  built  for  retirement 
from  the  bustle  of  Honolulu,  and  for  devotion,  near  a  beau> 
tiful  oool  grove  of  oku  and  Jwhn*  trees,  on  an  eminence 
oommandiiif  a  view  of  the  valley  below.  Near  this  dwell* 
ing,  she  oaussd  a  hetne  t«  be  built  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  mi8ak}naries,  when  tfaey  should  wish  for  rest,  and  to 
be  refreshed  with  the  invigorating  air  of  the  mountains. 
The  evidences  of  her  Christian  character  were  convincing. 
Her  piety  was  active.  She  traveled  through  all  the  islands, 
from  time  to  thne,  to«ee  that  the  people  attended  upon  the 
moans  of  religious  instructioa,  and  the  schools ;  and  to  reo* 


•  The  kmkmi  tree  bcmn  a  aut  u  large  u  a  black  walnat,  a  atriDg  of 
whioh  it  uaod  for  oaodle*,  and  hesee  the  tree  is  called  the  osmlletfse. 

31* 


mm 


«iHM 


mum 


mmm 


MUM 


mmmmmmimmfm 


«Sd 


noiioi-wti. 


•Hnrnrad  fh«  wllgten  at  tVt  Wblo  to  kU  oImm«  of  h«r  wb- 
jttott.  Iter  ewmplo,  M  well  m  her  authority,  wm  pow«r- 
t'bLin  tuppreMing  intemp(tr»noe,  and  th«  many  »lo«i  which 
thr««t«ned  th«  min  of  her  country.  Her  influnnoe  wm  frit 
uol  only  by  her  own  people,  but  tlao  by  foroignara  who  re. 
•orted  to  theae  iaianda. 

When  1  vbited  thb  apot  of  remombranoea,  the  buildinga 
ware  ftir  gone  to  decay  {  but  not  the  ohorUhed  n^ard  of  her 
piety  and  philanthropy.  Thla  spot  praacnted  a  very  plea- 
aing  view  of  the  high  and  precipitoua  mounuina  around  on 
every  aide,  excepting  the  south,  which  ia  open  and  exhibita 
to  view  the  grandeur  of  the  rolling  ocean.  The  many  oaa- 
oadea  around  upon  the  mountain  sidea  added  to  the  intereet 
of  the  aoenery.  Among  the  variety  of  ahrubbery,  we  found 
the  floflM  treo  with  ita  fruit  in  varioua  atagea  of  maturity  ; 
the  arrow  root ;  and  the  brake  fern,  growing,  in  many  in- 
alMicea,  to  th^  heighi  of  twenty  foet.  From  a  bulb,  rear 
tha  root,  ia  taken  what  the  nativea  call  A«ptiii,  h  aiiky  down, 
which  makea  excellent  bads  and  cuahiona. 

Hooolulu  ia  aituated  on  the  aouth  aide  of  the  iaiarid,  on  • 
b«y  of  the  aame  name,  and  ia  the  capital,  and  buaineat  place 
of  all  the  ialantb.  The  land  around,  and  ou  which  the  vil- 
Oige  la  located  is  a  dry  barren,  excepting  on  the  north  and 
oorth-wea(,  which  ia  rooiat  and  cultivated  with  taro  patohea, 
with  aome  ooooa  treea  interaperaed.  The  buildinga  gener- 
ally are  in  the  native  atyle,  thatabed  ;  many  are  built  with 
4oia  walla  after  the  Spaniah  mann.ir  on  the  ooaat  of  Mexioo 
aod  Peru,  titat  ia,  wilii  kigo  aun.b'amt  bricks  msdc  about 
two  feet  long,  eighteen  inohea  wide,  and  ten  inohea  thick. 
The  clay  ia  mixed  with  out  straw  to  atrengthen  them,  after 
the  manner  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Their  eoolcmrea 
are  oftsD  boiltin^the  aama  manner.    There  are  several 


•LO   ■tlTUN   nifPLI. 


sao 


«Mi  of  her  mb< 
rity,  WM  pow«r. 
i«ny  Tio«i  which 
nfluonoe  wm  fell 
rvignvn  who  n- 

»•,  the  building* 
led  r»g«ni  of  h«r 
lied  •  y«ry  pl6»- 
nUina  ftround  on 
ipen  and  «ihibita 
The  mtny  OM- 
ed  to  the  Intervat 
ubbery,  we  found 
gea  of  nfftturity ; 
ring,  in  many  in- 
rom  a  bulb,  pear 
1IH,  H  milcy  down, 

)f  the  iaiarid,  on  a 
,nd  buaineat  place 

on  which  the  viK 
on  the  north  and 
with  taro  patches, 
I  building!  gener- 
any  are  built  with 
le  ooaot  of  Meiioo 
ricks  made  about 

ten  inohea  thick. 
ogthen  them,  after 

Their  enelcnirea 
lliere  are  several 


good  buildinga  made  of  nxik  coral  in  Bngliah  atyla,  aoine  of 
which  are  apaoioua  and  well  finiahed.  The  village  oonUina 
about  nine  thouaaud  inhabttaiila,  three  hundred  of  whom  are 
Engliflh  and  AnMrioann.  Moat  of  the  oommnroial  buaineaa 
and  trade  are  carried  on  by  foreignera,  to  a  largo  amount, 
inoreaaed  by  the  resort  of  whale  ahips,  in  the  fkll  and 
•pring,  for  repaira  and  freah  auppliea,  particularly  vpgetA* 
bles;  it  lathe  place  where  all  other  shipping  touch  which 
navigate  thia  ocean  frum  Burope  and  America,  in  the  Chi* 
neseand  Baat  India  trade.  Thia  place  ia  conntantiy  grow, 
ing  in  importance,  and  muat  continue  to  do  ao  fVom  ita  loo«l 
advantagea. 

Four  miles  aoath-eaat  of  Honolulu  ia  the  plmuant  native 
village  of  Waititi,  nituated  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name. 
It  oontaina  five  or  aix  hundred  inhabitants,  ia  aituated  in  a 
beautiAil  grove  of  cocoa  trees,  which  adds  very  much  to  its 
appearance  and  comfort.  This  place,  if  its  cultivation  was 
proportioned  to  the  richness  of  the  aoil,  might  be  made  oo« 
of  the  most  delightful  spots  on  the  island.  '^ 

The  only  road,  or  any  thing  that  deserves  the  name  of  a 
road  ih  this  island,  is  between  this  place  and  Honolulu.  ' 

About  two  miles  east  of  this  village  are  the  remains  of  an 
old  heathen  temple,  in  which  human  fiacrificcfl  were  offered ; 
a  part  of  the  walls  of  the  enclosure  are  still  standing.  V«. 
rious  methods  were  employed  to  obtain  victims.  One  cf 
which  was  to  lay  a  tabu  upon  all  the  people  in  the  whole 
region  around,  that  no  one  for  a  certain  period  of  time 
should  go  out  of  their  dwellings,  or  make  any  fire  in  tllem, 
upon  pain  of  death.  If  any  violated  ttw  labu,  they  were 
apprehended  and  sacrificed  to  their  idols.  If  none  violated 
the  tabu,  and  they  were  unsuccessflil  in  obtaining  victims, 
an  expedient  was  adopted  to  decoy  the  people  from  their 


■*»<<ii«sii*iSiiSiBlMiiiiiiiiiiiiii  mm\ 


lit  miATHIII  PItlMS-HirA* 

dwclUoRi,  by  MndiitK  out  m«n  in  a  .oaiww,  to  ranfcn  aloof 
tetWMn  the  oor»l  tme(  mad  iM  •horn,  and  U^  feign  di^rai% 
Md  If  any  ware  daooyod  out  for  ttiair  roliaf,  tb©y  ware  a^. 
prahended  and  oarrlwl  to  th«  twtnpln  and  oflanid  In  iacriftce. 
It  ia  a  plaaainK  conaideratioii,  that  th«  benign  Influenoa 
of  Iha  |w«p«l  ha*  dupelled  thone  bloody  and  cruel  auiwraU. 
tlona  of  haatheniam.      I  had  an  opportunity  of  mfiiag  an 
old  man  who  had  been  a  high  priert  in  theee  bloody  ritaa. 
!Ia  haa  no  hope  that  he  in  intereated  in  the  MlvaUon  of  the 
goapal,  but  he  aaid  it  ia  maitai,  (g«»«»d,)  and  that  the  ChriatlaB 
Nlifion  ia  ao  Annly  eatabliahed  in  theae  ialaoda,  that  their 
•nciient  Idolatry  can  never  again  be  revived.     He  Bal-ited 
RM  with  many  alt^uu.     Mr.  Bingham  gave  him  aome  ao- 
oount  of  my  journey  aoroaa  the  Rooky  Mountainn  and  tha 
objwjt.    Ha  replied  that  It  waa  goad;  and  that  Ood  waa  with 
DM  and  praaerved  me.     Ha  aaid  in  their  former  religion, 
tboy  wei«  all  igiwrani— «!!  waa  darkneaa,  entire  darkneaa, 
but  now  the  light  ahlneo.     Ha  aaid  that  when  CapUin  Van- 
eouver  vlaited  theae  iaianda  In  the  reign  of  Tamaha,  he  urged 
the  king  to  reno«noe  idolatry,  and  the  king  protniaed  he 
wdbld,  when  ChriaUaM  woald  aend  from  the  land  of  light 
•  miniater  to  teach  them  In  the  right  way.    They  waited 
until  their  king  died  without  knowing  the  right  way,  and  no 
one  cam*  until  Mr.  Bingham  and  hie  aaaociataa,  in  the  year 
1890.    Thia.old  heathen  prieat  gave  up  hia  religioa  and  hia 
iMDora,  took  Mr.  B.  by  the  hand  on  hia  first  arrival,  and 
called  him  brother,  and  baa  ever  ainoe  been  friendly  to  the 
miaaionariea.     Hli  wife,  whom  I  alao  aaw,  hopea  that  aha 
haa  experianoed  tha  aaving  power  of  the  goapel. 

Fourteen  milea  weat  of  Honolulu  la  Eva,*  a  village  of  eon. 

•  ProaaoaaM)  Ava. 


nsi 


M,  to  nogn  aloof 
I  to  klgn  (liirtrvw, 
i«r,  ihey  warn  »p- 
>fhr«d  In  ucriAc«. 

benign  influonon 
ind  cruel  •up«r»U- 
inity  of  Mning  •«» 
thew«  bloody  ritM. 
lie  MlvkUon  of  Um 
i  th«t  the  ChrbUtn 

ialaode,  that  tlMir 
rived.  He  ml'ited 
ive  him  mme  ao* 
Mountain!)  and  th« 
that  Ood  waa  wiA 
At  fonner  niligioa, 
M,  entire  darkneae, 
rhen  CapUin  Van> 
Tamaha,  he  urged 
king  promiaed  he 
I  the  land  of  light 
■ay.  They  walled 
)  right  iray,  and  no 
Doiatea,  in  the  year 
Ilia  religion  and  his 
I  first  arrival,  and 
Men  friendly  to  the 
•w,  hopea  that  alM 
goepel. 
a,*  a  village  of  eon. 


f 


«  ■■■> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


:•  ii£  llll|2.g 


2.2 


m  lllii 


1.8 


^ 


fr" 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


.^o 


'«-    4^ 


23  WEST  MAIN       'FET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14i80 

(716)  872-4503 


WAfTrk 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


UMIOBI.  ■■■ 

i«i(l«r»ble  magnitude,  but  oot  very  oompaot.  It  Ji  situated 
OD  Pearl  river,  at  the  heaid  of  a  Iar|y^  lagomi  extending  mv- 
eral  miles  inland,  and  u  surrounded  with  a  fertile  valley 
reaching  twelve  miles  north,  which  is  two-thirds  of  the  dis* 
tanoe  to  Waialua.  The  highest  elevation  between  these 
places  is  about  four  hundred  feet,  and  is  intersected  in  va- 
rious parts  with  deep  ravines.  Eva  is  the  station  which 
Rev.  Artemus  Bishop  and  wife  occupy,  whose  prospects  of 
usefulness  are  encouraging.  When  I  was  there,  the  na- 
tives were  engaged  in  building  a  substantial  and  commodi- 
ous house  of  worship,  and  appeared  to  take  deep  interest  in 
the  eflbrt. 

In  the  north-west  part  of  the  island,  is  the  village  of 
Waialua,  where  Rev.  John  S.  Emerson  and  wife  are  sta* 
tioned.  The  village  is  situated  upon  a  wide  spread  bay, 
which  would  furnish  an  excellent  harbor  for  any  shipping, 
if  there  was  sufficient  water  upon  the  bar  at  the  entrance. 
The  valley  around  is  large  and  fertile,  capable  of  being 
made  very  productive.  On  a  Sabbath  which  I  spent  here, 
eight  natives,  six  men  and  two  women,  were  received  into 
the  communion  of  the  church,  who  appeared  very  intelli- 
gent and  serions,  and  conducted  with  as  rauch  propriety  as 
is  seen  in  the  most  civilized  parts  of  the  world.  I  felt  a 
satisfacti<m  in  joining  with  these  redeemed  heathen  in  the 
ordinance  of  the  Lord's  suppw.  Every  part -of  divine  ser. 
vice  was  conducted  with  Christian  decorum.  I  was  par- 
°  ticularly  pleased  with  the  appearance  of  the  native  deacon, 
who  was  dignified  in  his  person,  dressed  in  good  taste^and 
very  devotiwial  in  his  behavior. 

The  oMly.remakiing  village  of  any  considerable  impor> 
tanoe  is  Keneohe,  where  Rev.  Benjamin  W«  Parker  and 
wife  are*stati(med.    This  village  is  in  the  fertile  valley  of 


«Ba^iW't..wiLiiui(i»»iMiiMBAWijj»ijiiilhi*rtlil>l'iiriMll*iMiiwn 


r 


^mmi»mfin^immimmmmimir>m 


m  MOITMTiLnff. 

Kolou,  ne»r  the  ■hore  of  a  pleaaant  bay,  which  wooW  af- 
ibnl  an  excellent  harbor  if  there  waa  aufiioient  water  at  the 
entrance  over  the  coral  bar.  Thia  village  is  about  fbur 
miles  north  of  the  Pari,  and  is  the  most  cool  and  refreshing 
retreat  I  found  upon  the  island.  The  basaltic  mounUin  on 
the  south,  three  thousand  feet  high,  and  on  the  north  side 
nearly  vertical,  and  the  north<east  trade  winds  give  a  tem- 
perate atmosphere,  not  found  in  any  other  partof  the  jsland 
sufficiently  low  for  a  village. 

The  greatest  part  of  the  island  is  mountainous,  though 
but  two  ranges  are  of  considerable  magnitude.  The  lar- 
gest, Koanahuraanui,  is  on  the  east  side,  and  runs  ^rallal 
with  the  ocean,  and  its  highent  point  is  four  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  range  of  mountains  is  di- 
versified with  cones,  acute  points,  and  prairies.  At  the  great 
Pari,  the  upper  end  of  Nuuanu,  the  main  chain  turns  to  the 
west,  and  terminates  towards  Waialua.  The  north  side 
of  the  range,  west  of  the  Pari,  is  very  precipitous,  having 
many  spurs  projecting  to  the  north,  including  deep,  [Mt-like 
ravines.  The  other  range  is  on  the  west  part  of  the  island, 
called  Kaala,  running  north  and  south,  separating  Waianae 
on  the  west,  from  the  valley  of  Eva  or  the  east.  Hie  high- 
est point  is  three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
There  are  many  oonioal  hills  of  difiermt  magnitudes  in  va- 
rious parts  of  the  island,  which  were  evidently  ancient  ora- 
ten ;  iExae  six  miles  south-east  of  Honolulu,  called  Diamond 
Hill ;  and  another  a  short  distance  north  of  Honolul  n,  called 
Fort  Hill.  They  are  open  and  concave  at  the  tq>,  with 
high  walls,  reeded  down  the  sides,  which  appear  to  have 
been  formed  by  sti«ams  of  lava,  and  by  the  actipn  of  water, 
cutting  ravines.  There  is  an  abundance  of  lav*  and  Qllptr 
Toloanio  prpduotioos  about  tbaae  hilhi.  ,t*«^  ^^''^ 


? 


MMiiMIMi 


•mmmmiim 


r,  whioh  wooM  ftt 
iioient  water  at  Um 
lage  is  about  four 
}ool  and  refreshing 
laaltio  mountain  on 
on  the  north  side 
I  winds  give  a  tern- 
ir  part  of  the  island 

ountainous,  though 
gnitude.  The  lar- 
,  and  runs  ^ralUl 
four  thousand  feet 
of  mountains  is  di- 
kiries.  At  the  great 
1  chain  turns  to  the 
The  north  aide 
pirecipitous,  having 
udlng  deepi  [Mt-like 
It  part  of  the  island, 
leparating  Waianae 
le  east.  Hie  high- 
[red  and  fifty  feet. 
it  magnitudes  in  va- 
dently  ancient  ora- 
ilu,  called  Diamond 
of  Ghmoluhi,  called 
ve  at  the  top,  with 
loh  fpmt  tA  have 
the  actipD  of  water, 
»  of  lava  and  otlwr 


iuaiufaiteMM^MiiiiMI 


OMLOOT. 

The  Salt  Lake,  four  miles  west  of  Honolulu,  is  of  the  om 
terio  form.  It  is  a  great  curiosity,  as  well  as  a  source  of 
trade.  It  has  undoubtedly  a  connection  by  some  subterra- 
neous passage  with  the  ocean,  near  whioh  it  is  situated. 
Its  depth  is  not  known,  being  nearly  filled  with  excellent 
crystalized  salt,  which  appears  to  be  inexhaustible,  and  is 
taken  out  in  large  quantities  for  use  and  exportati<m.  The 
lake  appears  as  if  filled  with  ice,  a  little  sunken  below 
the  surfiioe  of  the  wnter. 

The  geological  formations  of  this  island,  and  All  the  others 
in  the  Pacific  which  I  saw,  v.d  concerning  whioh  I  ob- 
tained  information,  are  volcanic  and  ooi  aline  to  a  great 
extent.  Some  have  supposed  that  these  islands  have  been 
thrown  up  in  the  first  plaoe  by  internal  fires,  and  then  en- 
larged by  oraline  additions.  But  there  is  too  much  argil, 
laoeous  soil  to  favor  the  opinion ;  and  to  say  the  least,  tha 
supposition  is  without  conclusive  evidenoe.  Much  of  the 
soil  is  formed  of  disintegrated  and  deoomposed  lava.  Tha 
raefii  lying  ofi'from  the  shores,  and  in  some  places  immedi- 
ately upon  them,  are  oocaline.  The  oorals  are  divided  into 
ancient  and  modem,  the  latter  still  increasing.  Between 
these  formations  is  a  volcanic  deposit.  The  ancient  oonh 
are  found  in  many  places  forming  the  surfece  of  the  plains^ 
elevated  sune  six  or  eight  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the 
ooaan.  As  the  aoq>hytea,  whioh  form  coral,  never  work 
above  water,  it  is  evident  that  these  islands  have  been  ele- 
va.«d  iiy  some  subterranean  or  submarine  power,  or  the 
ooean  is  subsiding;  and  as  this  recession  ofthe  ocean  is  seen 
in  varimis  parts  ofthe  wortd,  in  nearly,  if  not  the  same  de- 
gree, is  i(  not  probable  that  the  waten  of  the  ooean  ara 
gradually  diminishing  ?  Of  the  modem  corals  there  ara 
many  qpaoies,  firom  the  rode,  to  the  most  beautifiil  kinds 


aiimf*»mtifmmmm»mmtitiitimimmm 


miliiiii  trtwmi  ft^  mn  " 


mmtmmm 


iH  pioaootMNii. 

rMMnbling  tnm  and  plftato,  •m4  of  vftriow  ooUm.  The 
voUmuiIo  fermatiora  do  not  diftr  iMtorially  flrom  tkoM  In 
Oragon  Territory.  C«UuUr  UvA  !■  rwy  oommon, 
bordtring  upon  pumice,  and  of  variou*  colon )  brick  rad, 
adi  odorad,  orange  yellow,  and  green.  No  primitive 
rooke  are  found,  nor  any  eilicloue  aand  {  the  Muad  upon  the 
ihoreii  being  formed  either  of  disintegrated  lava,  eooiia, 
or  coral ;  but  more  generally  a  combination  of  the<e  three 

products. 

While  I  Aall  not  attempt  a  minute  enumeration  of  the 
producUons  of  these  islanda,  the  following  are  some  of  the 
principal.  The  cocoa  tree,  bread  fruit,  ooa  tree,  which  ftif- 
nisbee  lumber  nearly  equal  to  mahogany  {  hybieous,  candle 
nut  tree,  mulberry,  fig,  cotton  shrub,  which  grows  qMotane- 
ouely  aDd  produces  cotton  of  very  fine  quality ;  ooflbe  tree, 
grape  vines,  oranges,  lemons,  limee,  pine  apples,  melons  of 
edperior  quality,  squashee,  sugar  cane,  arrow  root  f  indige 
plant,  which  grows  finely  without  any  care ;  the  guAva,  its 
fhiil  reeembling  mandrakes,  but  not  agreeable  to  the  teste 
of  those  not  accustomed  to  it  j  taro,  sweet  an4  onnmoB 
potaloee»  and  bananas.  There  are  many  foms  of  extraov- 
dinary  siae ;  and  the  eaetut  cpmHia,  familiarly  known  as  the 
priokly  pear,  growing  to  the  height  of  six  or  eight  fost, 
is  planted  in  hedge-iows  for  enoloeuree.  All  the  moi*  ea* 
ptrb  tropical  fleweriag  plants  luxuriale  in  thaee  ielaade, 
among  which  we  find  the  oriental  lilae,  eight  diftrant  if** 
etss  of  mimosa,  the  pride  of  Barbadoea,  ssfVeMl  variotis^  of 
«onvolvuliis,  and  ndiabilie,  the  passiilora  or  passkrn  flevrar, 
loses,  the  Spanish  pink,  Mexican  pea,  aad  mwiy  other  beaa. 
tifttl  ffeaera.    Also  garden  vegetables  of  various  kinds. 

Theee  islands  when  discovered  by  Capt.  Opdi,  eoataiasd 
but  very  fow  animals,  and  most  of  those  new  foand  open 


*"---- 


iririltaMhM<teMUSMiiMMMIhMMMMH 


iriam  oolon.  The 
rUlly  flrom  tkoM  ia 
v«ry  oommon,  dUo 
loolora}  briok  f»id, 
len.  No  priinitivt 
{  Um  MUid  upon  Ui« 
intad  lava,  ■ooria, 
lation  of  tiMfc  UuM 

•nunMratkm  of  tho 
Ing  an  nme  of  Um 
ooa  trte,  whioh  Av* 
Yi  hybknui,oandl« 
lioh  grows  ^pootaiM' 
luallty;  ooflfeoirM, 
M  applet,  melons  of 
,  arrow  root  ]  indigo 
oare;  Uia  guAva,  ita 
greoablo  to  Um  toate 
awaat  an^  onaimoii 
luy  feraa  of  extraor« 
^Uarljr  known  aa  the 
»f  six  or  eight  feat, 
b  ▲!!  tho  moat  an. 
Ha  in  thaaa  ialaada, 
»,  eight  diflhrant  apa- 
I,  aetraaal  variotiHrv  of 
ra  or  paaakm  fletfrar, 
Ad  many  other  baM* 
of  ?ariooahinda. 
kpt.  OfMli,  eoatainad 
oaa  aawfbaad  npan 


ahimai*— oovmrxiNY. 

them  have  einoe  been  introduoed  from  tho  Mexican  ooaat. 
Theia  are  now,  horsee,  mulee,  neat  cattle,  goats,  hogs,  dogs, 
fowls.  The  birds  whioh  have  their  reaidence  here,  though 
not  numerous,  are  of  moat  beautiful  plumage,  and  the  fkvor- 
ite  head  ornament  of  the  women,  ia  made  of  the  golden 
colored  feathers  of  a  native  bird.  The  crow  and  raven, 
whioh  are  common  in  almoat  all  parta  of  the  world,  have 
not  found  their  way  here.  There  are  very  few  reptiles,  be- 
sides the  green  lizard,  whioh  is  very  common,  and  in  the 
days  of  the  idolatry  of  the  Islanders,  was  worshiped,  and 
siK)h  is  the  influence  of  auperatition,  that  they  can  hardly 
dismiss  all  feelings  of  reverence  for  this  insignificant  rep- 
tile. If  one  comes  into  their  dwellings,  they  choose  to  let 
it  take  its  own  departure  rather  than  molest  it.  Snakes  are 
unknown,  and  the  scorpion  and  centiped  have,  within  a  very 
few  years,  been  brought  here  in  vessels.  The  musquotae 
was  not  known  until  recently,  though  now  they  are  numa*- 
ous  and  very  annoying. 

The  government  of  these  islands  is  absolute  and  heredi- 
tary, administered  by  the  king,  queen,  and  chiefo,  whose 
will  is  tha  supreme  law ;  tho  common  people  are  a  natioa  of 
slaves.  .The  lands  belong  to  the  government,  and  are  leased 
to  the  people  at  high  rents,  and  even  then  they  have  no 
seourity  that  they  shall  enjoy  the  avails  of  their  labor ;  for 
baaidaa  tha  stipulated  rents,  the  government  make  any  addi* 
ttooal  demands  they  please,  and  the  people  aro  taughlto 
obay  without  complaining.  The  king  secures  his  honae  and 
paraoa  by  life  guarda.  Very  frequently  on  a  Saturday 
meniiag,  tha  queen  regent,  attended  by  her  tram  of  fenala 
oompaniona  and  servants  in  equestrian  style,  visits  her  gar- 
den aome  two  miles  east  from  Honolulu.    Their  appearaaoa 

is  fine,  and  they  aro  well  skilled  in  horsemanship.    Her  oidi^ 

83 


\mmi0tmm0ttm 


«Mw«M«MMJMiMilllMHSlMWl 


^^^ 


^P"^« 


tM  nu  rAiTT. 

Bftry  mode  of  riding  !■  in  a  nnall,  Iow.wh««I  Mrri*g«  dmwn 
by  twenty  MrvMts.  The  pertom  of  th*  ohiefr  mn  remark- 
able fbt  their  extraordinary  eiae,  towering  quite  above  the 
height  of  the  oommon  people,  and  in  corpulency  preeo-ving 
oorreaponding  dinionsions.  The  Sandwich  Islandore,  oir 
Kanaka*,  a*  the  common  people  are  called,  have  leM  actlv« 
ity  of  body  and  mind  than  the  Indiana  of  our  continent,  and 
yet  a  phrenologist  would  say  that  their  intellectual  power* 
are  well  developed.  In  their  present  political  condition, 
they  are  not  expected  to  be  otherwise  than  indolent  and  inw 
provident.  In  their  dreM,  mode  of  living,  and  habitation* 
generally,  they  have  made  but  little  advance  upon  the  day* 
of  heathenism ;  some  in  the  interior,  especially,  wearing  lit* 
tl*  more  clothing  than  their  man,  and  having  their  dwell, 
ings  in  caverns  in  volcanic  rooks.  The  chiefs,  and  eoma 
of  the  people,  have  good  houses,  dress  in  good  Atahion,  and 
live  comfortably. 

The  king,  queen  regent,  and  chiefs,  gave  a  tea  party,  to 
which  with  a  few  other*  I  had  the  honor  to  be  invited. 
They  were  dressed  richly  and  in  good  taste ;  Ui&  table  wa* 
aplendidly  arrayed  with  silver  plate  and  china ;  the  enter, 
iainment  wa*  both  judiciously  and  tastefully  arranged  and 
pieparod,  and  all  the  etiquette  and  ceremony  of  auch  oooa- 
^aa»  were  obeerved.  The  oonveniation  wa*  cheerful  and 
intalligent,  without  frivolity,  and  nothing  occurred  embar< ' 
raering  to  any  one.  At  a  suitable  early  hour,  we  were  in- 
▼ited  into  a  well-fumi*hed  saloon,  where,  after  a  perfornk* 
anoe  of  music,  both  vocal  and  instrumental,  the  queen  fito- 
posed  that  prajfer  ehould  conclude  our  agreeable  viait ;  aAar 
which  the  company  retired.  I  have  *een  but  few  parties 
in  Christian  America  conducted  more  on  the  prinoiples  of 
rationaUty  and  religion. 


■MW 


'h««I  Mrriaga  drmwn 
B  ohiefr  mn  remark- 
ring  quite  above  the 
irpulenoy  preeerving 
idwioh  ItUndore,  oir 
lied,  have  lent  actlv> 
)f  our  oontinent,  and 
'  intellectual  powers 
t  political  condition, 
ban  indolent  and  im* 
ring,  and  habitationa 
Ivance  upon  the  dajra 
pecially,  wearing  lit* 
having  their  dwell* 
he  ohiefa,  and  ■one 
in  good  ikahion,  and 

,  gave  a  tea  party,  to 
honor  to  be  invited, 
taste;  Ui& table  waa 
id  china;  the  enter- 
tefully  arranged  and 
vmony  of  auoh  ooos- 
ion  was  cheerful  and 
ing  occurred  etnbar- ' 
■ly  hour,  we  were  bi- 
lere,  after  a  perfoml- 
lental,  the  queen  pfo- 
agreeable  visit ;  after 
seen  but  few  parties 
I  on  the  principles  of 


siiomBAsi  or  ronrLATION. 


MT 


An  Antertaininei.^t,  however,  is  sometimes  transacted  in  ■ 
diflbrent  style  by  some  of  our  countrymen  and  other  for- 
eigners in  these  ialat'ds.  A  dog-feant,  ai  it  is  here  called, 
was  given  by  foreign  resident  gentlemen,  on  the  20th  of 
Sept.  at  the  country  seat  of  the  American  consul,  in  honor 
of  the  officers  of  the  American  squadron,  the  Peacock  and 
Enterprise,  then  in  the  harbor  of  Honolulu.  I  extract  from 
the  account  published  in  the  Sandwich  Island  Oacette  as 
described  at  the  time.  "  Food  in  native  style  wan  bounti- 
M\y  served  up— baked  dog  was  among  the  dishes,  and  It 
was  not  to  be  despised.  Songs,  toasts,  cheers,  bumpers,  and 
speeches  all  came  in  their  turn.     Among  the  toasts  were, 

'  Commodore our  Commodure.'     Commodore's  reply, 

'  May  you  all  live  a  thousiind  years,  and  may  we  always 

meet  here.'     Doctor of  the  United  States  ship  Pea- 

eock.  '  Population  and  prosperity  to  the  Sandwich  Island*, 
and  an  end  to  all  oppressive  tabut.'  The  party  separated 
taemhig  with  good  spirits." 

The  population  of  these  islands  has  been  decreasfng  cTer 
since  an  aoquaintance  has  been  had  with  them.    Captain 
Cook  estimated  the  people  at  400,000.    The  present  popu- 
lation is  about  110,000.    A  variety  of  causes  have  conspi- 
red to  bring  about  this  declension ;  and  yet  no  one  so  prom> 
iaent  above  tfie  rest,  as  wholly  to  satisfy  enquiry.    It  is 
acknowledged  by  all  observers,  and  has  become  evident  to 
the  government  itself,  that  a  change  of  things  in  the  inter- 
nal structure  of  their  national  affiiirs,  is  necessary  to  the 
proqwrity  of  th»  people.     During  my  stay  at  Oaha,  the 
heads  of  the  nation  had  fVequent  meetings  to  discuss  tha 
subject  of  reform  and  improvement,  and  to  adopt  some  new 
mode  of  administration  which  will  give  to  the  people  the 
privileges  of  freemen,  and  thereby  stimulate  them  to  indti*- 


mitmmtmaliitilimmUim 


iteiiHHil 


mmiimlmuimSniaim 


Hi  vmvwt  MMonAfuMM. 

U7.  To  e&ct  this,  th«  lands  must  be  distributed  aasong 
Um  psopls,  •  mora  aqual  mode  of  taxation  must  be  adopted. 
Industry  must  b«  encouraged,  and  progressive  prosperity 
trill  follow  in  the  train.* 

The  perpetuity  of  the  indepondonoe  of  this  nation,  and 
with  it  their  sxistsnoe,  is  very  problematioai.  A  disposi- 
tioa  to  possess  these  islands,  has  evidently  been  manifested 
by  ibreign  powers.  Whether  the  paw  of  the  Lion,  or  the 
talons  of  the  Eagle,  shall  first  make  them  iu  prey,  or  wheth- 
er they  shall  be  mutual  oheoks  upon  each  other,  and  thus 
prolong  the  life  of  this  feeble  nation,  is  not  known.  The 
manner  in  which  the  king  and  chiefs  are  often  treate<i  by 
the  offioers  of  foreign  nations,  the  insults  thoy  often  meet 
with,  would  not  pass  with  impunity  fVom  a  more  powerful 
people.  In  fair  and  honorable  negotiations,  regard  is  had 
to  mutual  rights,  but  hero  foreigners  assume  the  style  of 
dictation ;  "  You  shall,  and  you  shall  not."  Assertions  an 
made  of  things  existing  in  the  laws  and  practioes  of  Eng- 
land and  America,  which  neither  government  would  toler- 
ate. Lord  Rus^l,  the  commander  of  the  Acteon, «  British 
man  of  war,  obtained  the  signature  to  a  certain  instrument, 
by  assuring  the  Hawaiian  government  that,  if  they  refused 
any  longer  to  sign  it,  he  would  order  all  the  English  tcs- 
sela  to  leave  the  harbor,  and  request  all  the  American 
•hipping  to  withdraw  ;  and  then  bring  his  armed  ship  be- 
fore their  fort,  and  batter  down  the  walls,  and  prostrate 
their  village.  The  king  signed  the  instrument,  and  than, 
lofether  with  the  queen  and  chie&,  like  some  other  people 
who  feel  their  feebleness  before  a  mightier  nation,  had  only 


*  Siiiee  my  visit  st  thsss  iaisadi,  the  Koremnnit  has  bcsn  re-orma. 
I  and  fsrnsd  apoa  the  tjtUta  at  fVss  govemaMnto. 


■iiAiif 


♦ 


MtsMMMtewMMMMMkN^i) 


!  distributed  atnong 
HI  mu«t  be  adopted, 
>greMive  prosperity 

of  this  nttion,  tad 
Mtioai.  A  dispod' 
tly  been  manifested 
of  the  Lion,  or  the 
n  its  proy,  or  wheth- 
tch  other,  and  thus 
■  not  known.  The 
are  often  treatetl  by 
its  thoy  often  me«t 
m  a  more  powerful 
ions,  regard  is  had 
Mume  the  style  of 
>t."  Amertionsare 
I  practices  of  Eng- 
nment  would  toIer< 
M  Acteon, «  British 
certain  iostrument, 
:hat,  if  they  refused 
ill  the  English  res- 
all  the  Amerioan 
his  armed  ship  be- 
ralls,  and  prostrate 
strument,  and  then, 
I  some  other  peoplM 
ier  nation,  had  only 


lont  hss  beta  rv.orgia. 
■lenU. 


FOUMW  IMtDWm.  Wm- 

the  poor  resort  of  a  public  ramomtranofl.  They  aooonlinf  • 
ly  sent  a  reincnstrancs  t»  iho  king  of  Great  Hritain,  In 
which  they  say,  that  "  on  account  of  ihoir  urging  us  so 
strongly  ;  on  account  of  said  commandoni  assuring  us  that 
their  communication  was  from  the  king  ;  and  on  account  of 
their  making  preparalbn  to  fire  upon  us — therefore  we  gave 
our  assent  to  the  writing,  without  our  boing  willing  tagiw 
our  real  approbation ;  for  we  were  not  plersed  with  it." 
They  feel  incompetent  to  contend  with  naval  Htrcngth,  and 
themfore  submit  to  indignities  At)m  which  tliefr  feelings  re- 
volt. Why  cannot  tho  principles  of  juntice  and  equity 
govern  tho  intercoumo  of  men  with  men,  where  they  are  so 
well  understood,  and  the  painftil  neoenhy  be  spared  of  In. 
nooenco  and  hclplepsness  supplicating  that  protection  which 
Qod  designed  iihould  bo  enjoyed  by  all  his  children. 

Much  has  been  said  of  the  character  of  tho  foreign  re*- 
klents,  and  of  the  counteracting  influence  they  exert  upon 
the  labors  of  the  missionaries  in  this  field.  Tho  cause  of 
their  bitterness  and  opposition  is  well  understood,  and  lest 
my  own  observations  should  seem  partial  to  the  missiona- 
ries, and  invidious  towards  those  who  oppose  thent)  F  will 
embrace  all  I  have  to  say  on  the  subject  in  a  quotation 
from  a  work  published  by  Mr.  J.  N.  Reynolds  of  the  voy^^ 
age  of  tho  Potomac,  an  American  man  of  war.  !Ie  cer- 
tainly cannot  be  accused  of  partiality  to  the  missionaries 
who  reside  on  these  islknds,  for  hm  remarks  on  them  are 
somewhat  acrimonious,  but  in  regard  to  tho  ibreign  resi- 
dents, he  says,  "they  are  generally  devoid  of  all  religious 
principle,  and  practice  the  greatest  frauds  upon  the  natives 
in  their  dealings  with  them  ;  which  tends  to  corrupt  their 
morale  and  to  preclude  all  hopes  of  fairness  in  trade  among 

them.    It  cannot  be  denied,  and  no  one  wn  regret  it  mora 

88* 


§f§  «uttn  Maowt. 

Ui«a  w«  do,  that  this  tvhiile  pupuiaiion,  geReraUy  speth* 
lag,  mn  of  tho  loweM  onl«r  ;  among  whom  evnrjr  thing 
lika  Ihadncant  rvslraint  which  civili««dtocMy  Inipoartupon 
ita  inembara,  k  at  war  with  their  vlcioua  pn-pwiwiliM,  and 
of  oounw  raalatod  by  thorn  to  the  eitent  of  thair  powar." 
Ha  Tarthor  ad<la,  "  lot  ua  be  distinotiy  undoratood  in  th« 
ramarka  wa  have  made  in  roferenoe  to  the  rorrign  reai> 
dent!  and  miiaionarit'a  oii  thia  ialand.  A«  to  tlio  qutatioa. 
which  party  la  on  the  aide  of  virtue  and  good  order,  tliara 
can  be  but  one  opinion,  whore  there  ia  not  even  room  for 
oompariaon."  I  have  boon  in  oommtiuitiea  where  vice  haa 
been  unbluahingly  indulged,  but  I  have  never  wlineaaad 
direct  enmity  to  avery  thing  morally  good,  in  ao  muoh  Ul- 
lamcaa  aitd  pnwer,  aa  in  Oahu. 

Moat  of  the  foreign  re«ldenu  have  native  wivaa,  aod 
manifeat  a  regard  for  tho  education  of  their  children,  and 
aand  aoino  of  thorn  to  other  oountriea  for  thii  purpoae ;  but 
for  moat  of  them  a  charity  wiiool  haa  been  eatabliahed,  and 
for  ita  Mupport  a  call  ia  made  upon  the  comntandera  and 
ofBoera  of  veaaela  who  oomo  into  thia  port ;  and  they  have 
even  aent  to  England  and  America  for  oharitable  aid. 
Though  nomo  poor  aro  taught  !:ere,  yet  I  know  not  why  tiia 
benevolent  ihould  help,  by  way  of  eluuity,  the  oonaula  and 
rich  merchanta  in  Oahu. 

I  viatto<l  the  aoamen'a  chapel  and  preached  aevaral  tiiiMa 
for  Rev.  Mr.  Diell.  While  tliere  are  often  leveral  hundred 
aeamen  in  the  port  of  Honolulu,  there  are  frequently  very 
few  attendanta  on  the  regular  aervioea  of  the  ohapel.  lUv. 
Mr.  Diell,  their  worthy  chaplain,  ia  however  indefatigable  in 
hia  labora  through  the  week,  viaiting  aailora  on  ahip  board, 
and  wherever  ho  can  And  them,  endeavoring  to  promote  tbair 
apiritual  good.    Some  oonveraiona  have  crowned  hia  eflbfti. 


MtMtOITABT  lOOCm* 


8tl 


,  ge»efaU)f  9}»«h- 
whom  cvary  tblaf, 
Kieiy  lmpo«r«upoii 
a  pir<>p«naiii<>»,  mmI 
I  of  lh«lr  powar." 
underatood  in  tb* 

0  iha  forrign  real- 
Aa  to  (Im  qucatioa, 

i  good  ordar,  Uiar* 
not  oven  room  for 
itica  wher«  vice  haul 
ro  never  wilnvaaad 
wd,  in  ao  muoh  U(- 

ntliva  wlvca,  and 
thair  ohildren,  and 
r  thia  purpoae ;  but 
sen  catabliahed,  awl 
e  comnuuidem  Mid 
Drt ;  and  they  h«v« 
for   oharitable  aid. 

1  know  not  why  iIm 
•ity,  the  oonaula  and 

ached  aereral  timaa 
i\en  aeveral  hundred 
are  frequently  very 
r  the  ohapal.  lUv. 
Bver  indefatigable  ia 
ulora  on  ahip  boaidi 
ring  to  promote  tbeir 
crowned  hia  efibrta. 


On  the  ooAaaioo  of  the  fonaral  of  an  infant  of  the  Frin- 
oeaa,  whoae  huaband  ia  Ijel^iohnku,  alia*  Wm.  Pitt,  I  viaitad 
the  burial  place  of  the  kinga  and  royal  family.  Thia  ia  A 
•tone  building  of  rook  coral,  of  the  common  aixn  and  atruo- 
ture  of  ihti  bouara  of  the  village,  and  aituated  amongat  tbrn), 
having  luttliing  particularly  diatinguiahable  nxoapt  an  out- 
ward aignal,  by  whioh  ia  undorotood  tlu>  numlxir  and  rank 
"f  iho  dead  within.  They  are  cnoaaetl  lirat  in  load,  ai<currd 
from  the  admiaaion  of  air,  and  then  dopoailcd  in  cofRna  of 
olegant  workmanabip,  oovnrrd  with  rioh  ailk  velvet,  or 
orimaon  damaak,  and  omamt^ntrd  with  ailvnr  or  braaa  plate. 
Here  aluep  tho  romaina  of  Rihuriho,  and  Kamohamalu,  who 
died  on  a  viait  to  Kngland,  and  aeveral  uthera  lying  in  atate ; 
and  in  tho  aarno  tomb,  aro  intorrod  a  number  of  other  mem- 
hereof  the  royal  family. 

The  miaaionariea  of  tho  American  Board  ofComrniaaion* 
era  for  Foreign  Miaaiona  in  tlueao  iaianda,  have  done  much 
to  elevate  the  character  of  the  population,  by  teaching  and 
preaching  the  trutha  of  Chriatianity  ;  by  aohoola,  where  the 
Arat  rudiinonta  of  education  aro  taught ;  by  tho  preaa,  and  a 
tranalation  of  tho  entire  bible  ;  they  have  exerted  a  salutary 
influence  upon  the  morale  of  the  whole  nation,  and  raiaed  a 
nmnument  to  the  power  and  excellence  of  tho  gospel  of  Joaua 
Chriat.  They  have  alao  laid,  inatrumentally,  a  broad  foun- 
dation  for  the  political,  and  aocial,  and  rcligioua  improve- 
ment of  ihat  people,  unleaa  thwarted  by  tho  interferenoo 
and  oppoaition  of  foreignera,  and  for  the  future  and  unend- 
ing bappineaa  of  many  redeemed  aoula  in  the  world  to  oome. 
I  had  frequent  opportunitiea  of  witneaaing  tho  efToct  of  their 
labon  in  the  evidencea  of  tho  moral  renovation  of  theae  onoe 
idolatera,  and  of  nteeting  with  them  in  their  great  oongre- 
gatkm  on  the  Sabbath. 


j 


F 


lli^!PPP<P«"«PW»''''*"* 


in)— mn  ii|iiiwi.y|  mil  III  I   I   BWlMipilpiWfillWI 


P«i^"'.iWI.'iW» 


»• 


ffOIUTr/BD  UOOHO. 


► 


i^ 


r 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

DepinuN  from  Oaha  in  ihip  Phaanis  for  the  Tlnited  SUtMh-eall  •! 
the  Society  Iiland*— brief  ileeoription  of  Tahiti  and  Eiin«o~e*veN 
galea  of  wind— Magellanio  oloada— Martin  Vam  laUud— Triuidui 
— rrriTal  at  Kow  London. 

Fhom  July  to  November,  no  veswl  departed  from  the 
Sandwich  Islands  direct  fur  .the  United  StaU^s,  aod  after 
i  j'ng  detained  about  five  months,  waiting  *n  opportunity  to 
return,  I  engaged  a  passage  >n  the  Fnoenix,  AUyn,  rrom 
New  London,  and  embarked  Dpccnber  17th.  The  ship  waa 
built  for  the  China  trade,  of  four  hundred  and  ten  tons, 
n>anned  with  twenty-eight  persons,  besides  five  passengers. 
The  pilot  boat  left  us  well  out  at  sea,  (it  nine  in  the  morning ; 
our  course  south-west.  On  Ute  morning  of  the  Slat,  we  en* 
countered  a  strong  wind,  which  in  the  aftemooD,  had  in- 
creased so  much,  that  we  were  oonipelled  to  put  two  n>«& 
in  tb*  top  sails ;  and  a  squall  split  our  jib  and  q>rung  our 
foremast.  I  had  no  opportunity  or  disposition  to  enjoy  the 
grandeur  of  the  roL'ng  ocean,  being  confined  to  the  oabin 
by  sea  sickness.  Our  ship  was  engagrxl  in  the  whaling 
bosinsas,  and  I  was  furnished,  for  once,  with  ao'  q>porti^m* 
ty  of  8eein{;  the  experiment  of  taking  a  wh'^".  The  thing 
has  often  been  described,  but  the  nove'  /  the  JoanoeuM 
wn  interested  me.  The  experienced  h  sVUlSui  whale- 
men dispoM  of  the  dangerora  process,  cvith  the  Uustitis  (^ 
their  profesaioa,  in  a  manner  much  beyond  my  ooaoeptiun* 
before  witness! ig  it;  and  the  nxmster  of  the  d»,^p,  UiOagb 


,,i"iii]liiltii'iiiirill"fiirrr-iiiWli 


nlw'ilnii.WiW 


United  SUtMM-etH  •! 
iti  and  Eiin«o— wnru 
9tM»  laUud—Trittidbd 


departed  from  the 
i  States,  aod  after 
g  Ko  opportunity  to 
ioenix,  AUyn,  rrom 
7th.  The  ship  wot 
dred  and  ten  tons, 
les  five  powengen. 
ine  in  the  morning ; 
[  of  the  2l3t,  we  en* 

(iftemooD,  Iiad  in- 
led  to  i>ut  two  re^b 
jib  and  q>rung  our 
oeition  to  enjoy  the 
infined  to  the  oabin 
[od  in  the  whoUog 

with  air  q[>portrm» 
wh'i".  The  thing 
!^  /  the  joantBUM 
»  skill  ail  whale. 
,  v>ith  the  Uustitfs  <^ 
and  mf  ooaoeptium 
)f  the  d».^p,  UiOugb 


nnvABOA. 


«7S 


mighty  in  hk  strength,  ia  mode  to  submit  to  inferior  power, 
and  to  contribute  largely  to  illuminate  our  evenings  at 
home.  When  the  whale  is  brought  along  side  of  the  ship, 
the  whalemen  dissever  the  head  from  tho  body,  and  hoist 
it  on  deok,  .ud  while  some  are  employed  in  perforating  the 
scull,  and  with  a  bucket  taking  out  the  qierm,  others  make 
a  qiiral  Jnciskm  in  the  oily  portira,  beginning  where  the 
head  was  taken  off,  and  by  rope  and  hook  suspended  by  a 
pulley  twenty  feet  up  the  mainmast,  draw  up  the  oily  part 
whkh  oleaves  from  the  flesh,  while  the  body  of  the  whale 
revolves  in  the  water;  aoi  this  process  is  continued  until  all 
thai  i«  valuable  i«  secured.  There  are  said  to  be  thirty 
thousand  men  employed  in  this  business  in  the  Pacific,  while 
'>Qly  about  four  hundred  are  engaged  in  diffusing  the  light 
of  life  through  the  dark  places  cf  the  earth. 

January  18th,  1637.  Through  the  whole  of  to-day  we 
had  strong  gales  from  N.  N.  B.  Our  topsails  were  clsee 
reefed  ispUt  our  main-top.aail.  Headed  to  the  B.  dose  on 
the  wind.  Very  bad  sea—- not  able  to  take  any  observation 
of  our  latitude  or  longitude.  These  gales  continued  on  the 
18th  unlii  (Imost  every  sail  was  taken  in,  and  we  lay  tc  ca 
the  wind.  The  lost  part  of  the  day  was  more  moderate, 
and  we  httiaaA  south.  By  observation  taken  to-day,  our 
latitude  mi  14*>  47' south. 

Sabbath^  16th.  The  winds  subsided,  and  the  Weather  was 
wana.  In  the  morning  we  came  near  Tetuaroa,  a  small 
ialud  of  the  Society  group.  It  is  low,  the  highest  parts  ri- 
sing but  a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  thinlyjn- 
habited,  and  adorned  with  large  and  beautiful  groves  of  tin 
cocoa  tre*  extending  even  to  the  water's  edge.  The  fresh 
vdiddiw  of  this  island,  in  all  the  luxuriance  of  perpetual 
sumnaer,  wo  a  deliglttftil  Contrast  to  the  ooostant  view  of  the 


mr 


immm 


i>«Npp«V«li|in>ff7P«^MMMpp^^ 


pup 


^.: 


r 


tM  TABRl. 

wat^  for  Marl  J  a  month,  and  I  felt  aa  though  theae  gema  of 
the  ocean  were  scattered  here  to  rafreeh  the  tired  voyagar, 
and  bring  to  his  mind  the  reoolleotion  of  his  own  dear  home. 
Like  all  the  islands  of  this  ocean  which  [  have  aeen,  it  is  sur- 
rounded with  coral  reefs,  lying  off  at  a  little  distance  from 
the  shore,  and  upon  which  the  sea  constantly  breaks.    In  the 
afternoon  we  approached  the  ha/bor  of  Papeeti,  at  tbe  ialaad 
of  Tahiti.    The  pilot  came  off  to  us,  and  made  i^  efibrt  to 
get  the  ship  in,  butdidnotsuooeed,  tbe  wind  being  too  light, 
and  we  had  to  bear  off  for  the  night.    Tbe  prospect  a«  it 
lay  ^read  put  before  ua  was  a  combinatioD  of  all  that  waa 
beaatiftil  In  nature.    Nor  am  I  alone  in  the  impreaaion 
which  this  little  <<  Queen  of  the  ocean"  makea  upon  a  atnui- 
gar.    Others  have  deaoribed  it  with  all  the  vividiMan  wUeh 
Ita  romantic  and  delightful  scenery  inspires^    The  haitor 
forma  a  gentle  curve,  and  in  the  foreground,  on  a  level  tnot 
wata  seatterad  neat  cottages,  built  of  thatch,  or  wood,  plaa- 
toied  and  whitewashed  with  ooral  Ume,aituat^  togallMr  wMi 
the  church,  in  the  midst  of  bread-fruit,  coooa,  and  oiwige 
groves.    Tha  back  ground  of  the  andiantjag  piatnre  waa 
illed  up  with  hills  and  valleys,  and  streams  dashing  thair 
way  down  tbe  ravines,  and  then  maaadering  thnw^k  tlM 
rich  vale  below,  to  the  ocean,  while  tha  outline  lemdnalad 
in  steep  and  lofty  mountains.    But  not  the  least  Itwealiag 
ware  the  narin  which  the  OiristiaB  religion  aad  ita  attaad- 
•Bt,  oivilintioB,  have  made.    Hera  waa  a  ohuroh,  aad  la 
know  that  thia  people  had  lately  been  rsaoutd  from  pagwi- 
ism,  and  all  tha  hidaooa  forms  of  idolatrous  wmaUp,  vaiiM 
in  my  heart  emotions  of  pleasure  and  gratiuide,  whioli  Mt 
aven  nature's  foireat  ferma  had  pofwer  to  Awaken.    A*  in- 
noital  aptritelavi^ed  fit>mtiM  dhut,  and  Miaed  to  heavMi,  a 
nonuDiMtt  oS  tha  SavWa  gituf^  what  ean  a^ual  Ht^««Mt 


■IM«llli<»iir»ii«ii>ri>mi»>hl>l#ii.»ri'i«-»tinnr«ii-rh«ii#M»i 


■MmpM 


•PMiiniilii 


tough  thew  genu  of 
the  tind  royagtr, 
hu  own  dear  home, 
have  Men,  H  is  sur- 
little  dntanoe  flrom 
ntly  breaks.    In  the 
*apeeti,  at  Uie  island 
id  made  i^  efibrt  to 
rind  being  too  light, 
The  prospect  as  it 
Hon  of  all  that  was 
I  in  tlie  impression 
makes  upon  a  stmn- 
thevividBsagiwhieli 
ipires^    Thehaiter 
and,  on  a  levd  tfaot 
atch,  or  wood,  plW' 
ituatedtogolherwMi 
I,  ooooa,  and  oiange 
hantiag  platore  was 
reams  dashing  their 
idering  thrai^  tkie 
I  outline  lenninalid 
the  least  iMuestiag 
Jgion  and  its  attsnd. 
IS  a  ohoroh,  and  l» 
twiwiad  from  pagtfi 
amis  wmsUp,  viIhUI 
patitede,  whioli  Mt 
to«w»ken.    AnioK 
i  laissdl  to  heavMi,  a 
it  tmn  e^nal  UMiiiim: 


mmmm 


oniiTUMrrr  and  ciTnizATioii. 


tut 


Monday  moraiDg,  the  lOth,  we  passed  safely  into  the 
harbor,  where  we  found  the  Daniel  Webster,  Pierson,  from 
Sag  Harbor ;  on  board  of  which  were  Rev.  W.  Richards 
and  family,  passengers  for  ihe  United  States. 

We  continued  in  this  port  four  days,  during  which  time 
I  made  several  excursions  about  the  island,  and  became 
acquainted  with  the  English  missionaries,  of  whose  success- 
ful labors  I  had  often  heard  and  read ;  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
Wilson,  Pritchard,  and  Darling,  and  their  families.  They 
anvar  happy  in  their  work,  and  devoted  to  it.  The 
Christian  religion  is  the  only  religion  acknowledged  in 
these  iriands,  and  its  influence  is  universally  apparent.  As  « 
the  conversioa  of  multitudes  in  the  first  ages  of  Christian!, 
ty,  has  ever  been  considered  as  furnishing  evidence  of  th# 
truth  of  the  goq>el,  so  the  "  moral  miracle"  of  the  oonver* 
skm  of  the  iskuuk  of  the  sea,  in  our  own  day,  is  calculated, 
with  all  its  attendant  circumstances,  to  omfirm  our  AMUi 
as  well  as  to  encourage  us  in  prosecuting  still  fitrther  diOM 
benevoleoi  designs,  which  render  the  deserts,  boUi  natural- 
ly and  morally,  tiie  garden  of  the  Lord.  Besides  preach- 
ing <»  the  Sabbath,  Ihe  missiMMries  hav«  religious  service 
on  other  d«|rs  of  the  week.  At  sun-rise  every  morn- 
ing they  have  a  public  prayer  meeting.  They  are  doing 
modi  by  their  schools  and  the  press ;  and  most  of  the  peo- 
ide  oaa  laad.  The  performances  of  the  natives  fat  vooal 
UMMip  plaaasd  me,  their  voices  being  very  soft  and  musiottlf 
though  Ion  cultivated  than  those  of  the  Sandwfoh  Islanden. 
Thair  personal  appearance,  complexion,  language^  aad 
dnsa'  are  modi  the  same  as  the  natives  of  thoe«  isliads. 
Thair  advaaoes  in  the  arts  and  in  agriculture,  are  leias  Aaik 
might  be  ipeoted  of  them,  but  in  a  climate  where  so  many 
ridi  findts  vegetate  spontAeoualy,  the  necessity  of  eulthvit^ 


•Swiwu 


T" 


#"^ 


mmummm 


, 


. 


a«minisirr. 

tkmtt  le«  imperioiM.  WhlU  tha  harbor  is  not  ••  goo*  M 
tiMi  of  Oikhu,  lew  i«  done  by  way  of  wlwrftiig,  or  otkw- 
win  to  (kdliut*  buainew,  or  to  aid  in  repairing  tho  ship- 
ping which  visit  this  island.  A  good  public  road  has  ba«i 
oommenoed  to  extend  around  the  inland,  on  which  convicts, 
instead  of  being  imprisoned,  were  employed,  but  it  is  now 
neglected,  and  all  the  bridges  are  brolien  down. 

The  government  here  is  much  the  same  as  that  of  the 

Sandwich  Islands,  but  is  in  some  respects  more  free  and  sy». 

temaUxed.    Their  judiciary  is  well  organized,  and  justice 

is  tolerably  weltadministored.    Their  legislative  body  is 

composed  of  the  qmwn,  governors,  chiefs,  and  two  lepreean- 

tatives  from  each  district  of  the  islands  of  Tahiti  and  Bimeo ; 

the  laws  when  framed  are  canvassed  by  the  people,  and  If 

approved,  receive  the  queen's  signalnie.    The  young  qmm 

Pomare  is  of  very  prepossessing  appearance,  possessee  taU 

eats,  and  deoirion  of  character ;  but  her  views  of  oiviliatiM 

AM  not  so  enlarged  asthoae  of  Madam  Kiaav. 

■     The  A«Mic«i  consul  at  these  iataads,  resUas  at  PapM* 

U  J  he  is  aDutohmaa, and  as  he  InfcnnedMn^ •■•«*»•  •»* 

oidien  of  Antwerp.    His  Bnglidi  is  hardly  intoUigWe,  and 

his  knowledge  of  the  duties  of  his  office  iffpt  tobaac 

quired. 

The  islanda  of  Tahiti  and  BiuMP*  Uke  the  other  ImRO 
Wands  of  the  Padfio,  are  vdoanio  and  omaliM.  "RMg^ 
Me  mountainous,  and  many  of  the  mooataina  aw  hi^mi 
itoep,  and  many.of  the  vallejw  are  daep  aodaanwr,  vtUmi 
li^  far  into  the  Interior.  ToucfomUmM»fm»m^lih»^ 
is  rioh  tad  piodttctive ;  arwigM  aM^atti«Mrt«spisal  Miia 
hsli«abttBdaal,aiidNqiarlngIitttolHMir4irear*.  SoiMi 
th*  iadalsaoe  of  the  iahabitaBli  ttatttfty  «ttlti««M  littl»|r 
fiiMMgaroMOaadafewveg^hUaa.    Theaaiali^MW 


rni'iiiii  iM'umiiiiiii-M'i--"  "  "•'-••■'■■*■- "'""^■'•'■■'"'i*"""'" 


wmmmmmmmfmrnimiit 


ir  ia  not  ••  gooi  M 
rlwrftng,  or  oOwr- 
fepairiog  tho  ■hi^ 
blkt  road  hM  bMO 
on  whioh  oonvleta, 
ioyed,  but  it  b  now 
n  down. 

niM  M  thmt  of  tho 
I  mom  free  uid  ay** 
^nized,  and  juatioe 
IcgisUave  bodjr  ia 
I,  and  two  lepraMii- 
'Tahiti  and  Bimeo; 
y  tho  people,  and  if 
TheyooBgqiNeK 
ranoe,  poMMOM  taU 
▼iewoofoiriliatiM 

KiiUHi. 
Is^reeidflaaiPapM* 

rdlyintdiligfible^aad 
loo  i»  ipt  to  bo  ac> 

like  the  other  iMfo 
nd  ooraliM. .  Thagr 
ntaioB  aw  U^ji 

mUae>l«iltho«tfl 
i^lberuopiootMht 


m^mm 


wmmm 


,    Theooi^teadeMO 


ouANumM  or  nm  ttLAnniu. 

well  aupplied  with  foieeia,  in  whioh  ftre  several  ItflKi  of 
equal  in  value  to  mahogany  for  oabinet  work.  The 
heat  for  the  moat  part  of  the  year  ia  ao  oppraerife,  that 
tkoagh  many  thinfb  are  very  pleaaant,  yet  theae  iaianda  ooipe 
dMTtof  the  paradiae  whioh  aome  joumaliala  have  doseribed. 

Theae,  like  the  other  iaianda  of  the  PaoiAo,  have  been  dU 
roiniahing  in  populoaaneaa.  Varioua  oauaea,  auuh  aa  the  in- 
troduotioD  of  foreign  diaeaaea,  infantioido,  human  aaorifloee, 
the  meane  ftimiahed  by  oommeroe  of  rendering  wan  de- 
atruotive  to  human  life,  and  the  intioduotion  of  ardent  apirits, 
have  all  oontribiited  to  thia  end.  It  ia  estimated  that  only 
about  twelve  thooaand  people  inhabit  the  two  iaianda  of  Ta- 
hiti and  Bimeo,  and  about  forty  thouaand  both  the  Georgian 
and  flooiety  group.  The  Introduotion  of  the  CSiriatian  N» 
ligioB  haa  baniriied  many  oauaea  8f  their  decline. 

The  oleanlineaa  of  the  ialandera  ia  a  subjeot  worthy  of  re- 
vfeaiit.  Theii>  praotioe  of  frequent  ablutiona  and  aea  bath- 
ing, to  whioh  they  are  induoed  by  the  oTinMtte,  and  of  wWdi 
4wy  are  il»d,  faioluding  all  deaoriptionaof  peraon8,and  evev 
eMldMtt,  ia  hlgl|f  eondooive  to  health,  and  promotea  a  taile 
for  aeamew  in  their  penona  not  eominaoto  heathen  natkma. 

WediMMAiy,  leth,  I  aooompaaied  Mr.  PritehaH  in  hb 
piMleml  labom,  about  aeven  miles,  on  horseback,  where  he 
piMelMd  to  a  congregation  in  a  village  in  whioh  tfie  qnoMi 
haa  iMff  leaidMiee.  Queen  Pomare  was  present,  and  an 
hwarestlag  andlenee  appeared  to  listen  as  If  they  were 
hearing  tiM  word  to  obey  ft:  Afier  the  meeting,  we  pomioa 
>M>i«do  alNHit  seven  miles  forther,  to  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson'a  at 
imut  VeWOi^  *  lo^ly  spot,  situated  in  orange  and  banam 
gUMs.  Oavw^r^iiiherwtsarettttd  the  base  (tfhntiafld 
amilinhis  whli  ^  ysmtOM  near  tin  beadi  In  ftndi^am, 
iHtfwlMMlkr^pMiaf  ^'^^  ^  ^'^^  nisft  pomitfid  Hie 


i«<MiMW«MitMfliii 


mmmmmmm'm 


mmm 


mmm 


■MWVrMk  on  Um  abora  with  «  moim  IOm  diimdw,  ■•  (kal 
wo  had  to  watoh  Um  opportiuity  dibnM  bjr  Uw 
wavM  to  p«M  theM  poioti.  Any  honas,  but  tteM 
loiiMd  to  tba  aight,  would  hav*  dauiad  ua  a  Mfe 
With  th«N  dear  minionariaa  I  partook  of  a  ohaariyil  dlahaT 
taa,  whila  wa  talked  of  the  intaraats  of  tba  kbtgdom  of  our 
oonuaon  Rodeeiner,  and  of  the  tima  whan  Mlow  labpran 
fkom  avary  part  of  our  loat  world,  and  from  their  difibvaal 
apheraa  of  agenoy,  when  their  work  bare  la  donat  ahall  ba 
gathered  to  their  Father'a  home  in  heaven. 

In  the  evening  we  returned  to  Mr.  Pritohard'a,  on  nj  pMI 
deUgbted  with  ao  reflreahing  an  interview.  '  '^ 

During  my  abort  atay,  the  queen  and  royal  flunily  of  a 
aaighboring  ialand,  paid  a  viait  of  fHandahip  to  Tahiti. 
Tbia  afibrded  me  a  very  deairable  opportunity  of  reroaiUag 
the  mannera  and  ouatoma  of  the  people.  A  publie  ftaal 
waa  given  in  honor  of  the  royal  viaitaota )  and  the  day^aw 
nabaied  in  by  firing  ru^  guna,  of  wbiob  they  have  a  «iif 
fcw.  The  morning  until  ten  o'olook  waa  oooiqpM  la  mI> 
looting  tog^bar  their  ooooaauta,  banaaaa,  Jnkod  ho'^  dM. 
Many  wero  out  to  purobaae  oalioo  aoarft  of  twe^tE  Ihioo 
yardain-lengthtowearinthoprooeaaion.  Awf|ljl^fw» 
oaaaton  formed,  the  women  taking  tho  load,  and  tba  ^MiJbl* 
lowfaig  in  order.  A  lemala  with  an  influit  in  bar  msm  lod 
tliovan.  This  waa. explained  to  BM  aa  dona  In  iMMitaf 
■Mthera;  fbr  hare,  aa  well  aa  at  tba  Sand^vMi  Iriandib  JiSk 
mananiagardedaainall  roapeotaonaparvMiaaan.  All 
woro  well  attired  in  European  atylo,  their  hoada  adonti 
taatoAiUy  with  garlanda  of  moat  bcautiflil  tr^tfanl  Jowal 
wjM>  wbiob  their  a0H[it  iale  abounda  In  fnNtka, 
tailing,  in  aingle  file,  a  long  and  oirouitnuo  mutlkt  thagrni^ 
rived  at  their  Ibaating  bowor,  iiMlar  a  g rova  of  i 


iii.iii»iaiiiifc«iii><»iiiin"i»i'J»'i'i'n>iVriii"'"' ■*'■■•■*'•  '  "    miiiii'    t -m 


lMtilMd«,l»(iMl 

k1  bytiw 

I,  but  Umm 

UlAMfc 

raolM«riWl<Uili«r 
tb«  kingdom  of  our 
MO  Mlow  Ulipran 
from  their  difbrMt 
ro  !■  doM,  ahall  bt 

Ml. 

ohard'iiOamypMl 
w, 

i  rojal  fluniiy  of  a 
[•ndaliip  to  TMA, 
tunity  of  rwMkridag 
0.  A  publie  Ami 
1}  MMltbed«y4Wi 
h  tboj  Imv*  jft  Wf 
MOooiq^(idiA«^ 
iSiJhakad  h»s{ti,  4m« 
rft  of  twoi«E  thiM 

tdttadtbo^MiiAl* 
lat  in  bor  msm  M 
■  <kMN  in  iMiot  of 

td^vioh  lalMdib  M" 
pwvithoMB.  All 
loif  httiii  ndonti 
111  twykti  tlo»tl 
iffofMoou  AftMr 
)tto  aiMokt  thftgrw. 
|io*a  of  I 


nUAMOf  fO>  UA. 


vtt 


brtMl-fHiil,  nnd  emnfo  trMs,  where  near  the  oentr^With 
an  ioCut,  nt  the  royal  vieitor ;  and  «•  they  passed,  each 
Tlihitian  threw  down  at  her  feet  their  Marfa  or  eonie  other 
pweant.  It  waa  the  pleasure  of  the  queen,  however,  not 
long  to  retain  all  these  tokens  of  honor,  for  shd  seemed  happy 
in  generously  giving  thorn  to  others.  After  the  procession 
had  pasaed  in  rospeotftil  review,  next  oame  the  refreahmentc, 
which  were  placed,  some  on  the  ground,  others  suspended 
on  boughs  of  trees,  which  were  taken  and  shared  in  little 
oifolea  seated  upon  the  grass,  evidently  enjoying  the  social 
interview.  This  is  considered  one  of  th(>i  r  most  joyful  hoU' 
dajrs,  and  waa  mt^naged  without  noise,  confusion,  or  any 
apparent  iniVaotion  of  the  rule*  of  propriety.  It  must  be 
iMolleoted  that  this  is  a  temperance  island ;  all  traffic  ia 
aidaat  apirits  being  prohibited  by  law. 

Id  taking  leave  of  these  islands,  I  would  not  fail  to  man. 
tka  the  kind  hoapitaUty  of  Rev.  O.  Pritohard  and  flunffy, 
and  the  satia&otion  I  had  in  seeing  the  other  raiasioaarlMk 
and  witnessing  the  interesting  Aruits  of  their  labors  undar 
tha  Msaaii^  of  «od. 

Our  suy  at  Tahiti  was  employed  by  the  ship's  oraw  to 
diapoaiag  oCoar  poor  s»lphuratad  water  from  the  Sandwiah 
Manila,  and  in  r».8an>lying  themselves  from  the  pure  neaa^ 
tote  aiNMaa  of  thia  island,  and  in  «<  vegetaUmg  tkt$Mf,"  aa 
Mh^  fkmm  it  rthat  ia,  by  oollaeting  quantitiea,  whteh  ava 
pirnhatH  of  tfia  aativaa,  of  oraogea,  bananaa,  aweet  pat»> 
Uifaa,  ooeowmta  in  abundance,  bread-firuit,  yama,  aad 
HaN  I  oolleoted  for  my  oabinal,  some  eMoa 
I  of  oohU  and  ahalla  of  the  ocews,  which  Ao  an* 
tb«a  divo  to  Obttto,  and  aall  to  the  ahipa  wUoh  antar  dda 

poci» 
Qm^  ttomiag  o^  SiMnlay  31st  Jaaoary,  w«  k^  tfw 


^>-.-.Vi^.^j,  ^i^., 


L 


wmmmtmimimm 


lit  tUM  OVIl 

iMwIil^  of  Tsbid  wUft  •  ligLt  wind,  »iid  M  w«  MkiM  aroMd^ 
Biimo,  ila  naountaiiUK  with  thair  densely  wowM  lopa  and 
praoipiUMM  sidiw,  •p|)e«r«d  in  Atll  pratpeot.  On  this  iaUad 
tbsra  is  •  high  school  for  th«  ohildreo  of  ths  missiooMx 
families  of  the  several  islands. 

We  pnweeded  with  a  favorable  wind  unUl  the  Mth,  when 
our  latitude  was  W^  AT  south,  and  longitude  IW*  W  weal. 
I  was  here  muoh  gratified  to  witnese  the  interaatiag  phe> 
nomenon  of  •  water-spout.  It  first  beoame  visible  to  us 
•bout  half  a  mile  disUnt  as  it  arose,  and  at  that  distanee 
we  had  no  apprehensions  of  danger  from  it,  and  yel  it  was 
suAoientiy  near  to  give  a  dirtin«t  view.  It  oommeneed  in 
a  small,  darit,  and  nearly  perpendioular  column,  enlnrgiuf 
Us  dkuaetilr  as  It  foae,  until  It  reaobed  the  regka  of  tlM 
olouds,  when  apparently  feeling  the  Iniuenoe  of  tlM  wlad* 
ft  paaasd  (Miquely  to  the  soMb-weat.  It  oontiaaed  in  vtew 
ea—tfana,  but  as  we  wera  proceeding  on  cor  ooutae»llgwA> 
nnlly  dlsajpr  arad. 

On  the  4tli  of  February,  fraah  Iimims  from  Um  Mftfi* 
wast  took  the  place  of  the  soudi-east  tmda>wlnd%-iuMl  our 
•«yMa  was  laid  B.  S.  B. 

4^€ii  the  0th  wa  had  Strang  galea  ftem  the  weal.    Pat  twa 
raafc  In  the  tt^Malls,  and  took  In  the  mlwaen  tap  sail,  Mi 
handed  the  mainsail.    The  sea  was  very  haavy.    €k  A* 
-  8M>  the  wind  was  mora  modarato ;  aad  whUe  cag*f*<*  <* 
qpeariag  porpoise^  mm  of  the  men  fell  ofwboavd  Aaaa  4k» 
toir,  and  trsut  diiaotly  under  the  sUp,  and  < 
haf  atarn^     The  life  bi»y  waa  thvawa  over  to  kk%  kiM 
baing  an  indiffeiaot  awimamr  ha  waa  \m%  in  hia 
ta«elaa  It.    By  lowariag  tka  boat  and  laaadiag  i 
ship,  ha  was  raoovsred  on  board  maoh  e»hawated,a»d  i 

with  the  tioid.    Hundrads  •ra4ntty,ky  Bfiiai 


ii  utut  f r  II  I'liinYMiSiiirir  nil irri" •"'•■'•'  "•'  '-'■■>"'«■■■■ 


mmmmimm 


Y  wowM  toya  and 

«t.    Ontbiaklmwl 

of  Um  mlwkwry 

intil  Um  Mth,  vlwn 
Uide  15r>  lO*  wan. 
lie  intarwtiiis  plM* 
oanM  viaiki*  to  lU 
id  At  that  diataoM 
B  U,  and  yal  it  waa 
It  oommeoMd  in 
r  oolumo,  askurgiiif 
1  tha  ragknof  tiM 
aaooa  of  tlM  «i^ 
Itoontiaaediii  vtew 
oorootinakhfradr 


M  fron  dMi 
«da>wlad%<iini  our 


tha 


Fmtw 


HPy  haavy.  €k  Aa 
t  whUa  m§»f&A  ift 
ifaraoara  mai  «n 

■  orar  to  Ma%  tal 
loi«iB  Ma 


re^atty,^afMMt 


Ml 

vafUlf  af  oooarrraoaa.  takao  from  tha  world,  and  th#aar- 
Uia  luwwiadge  awaliena  but  fMblo  wnwtioM  in  our  Iwaoma  | 
bat  a  aolitary  oaM  of  individual  daogar  and  aufbring  whidi 
wa  witaaaa,  arouna  all  our  auiiaUaa  and  ■yropatWaa,  and 
we  ara  grateful  when  rellered  by  the  eafety  of  the  euC 

On  the  10th  and  17th,  the  gale  wae  treroendoue.  We 
waia  hi  latitude  about  4T«  aouth,  and  iaO«  weal  longitude. 
With  m«rly  every  eail  taken  in,  we  could  only  run  befcre 
the  wind,  which  wae  from  the  north- we<  and  tha  wavee  weia 
oooatantly  braaUog  over  our  bulwarke.  8uoh  waa  the 
raaring  ot  the  wind  and  bwaklng  wavee,  that  it  waa  dift- 
auk  far  theoidaraofthe  oaptahito  ka  heard,  upon  hla  loud, 
eattoioa,  from  nUdahip,  fiirward  or  aft.  The  wind  blew 
of  water  into  tha  air  and  aoattered  it  into  tan  thou. 
afMju.  I  never  had  aueh  evidenoe  of  the  power  of 
V,  nor  of  the  adaiirabia  nannar  tha  aWp  aauM 

llva  in  aueh  a  gale.  She  would  roll  upun  tha  wavaa,  aad 
ploBga,  nd  riaa  agaki  upon  the  mountahi  billowa.  Tha 
frhida  aoaaa  waa  firauglM  with  nMignifioanoa,  lanror,  aad 
It  waa  a  giMM  <kvor  that  wa  had  •  oeufagaoua 


diaM  aniw ;  and  ahovo  all  the  piolaelfaNrof  UaAvan.  Tw« 
IBM  iraM  MMtaady  «t  the  whaalk  aalaatod  fW»aa  «ar  bai« 
jniinng  Wa  aUppad-  a  giuM  quaatily  of  walar,  aa* 
«l4hR  Miglil  «r  IB*  l^tlh  tha  ibra  daok  had  aeMoaly  •! 
aay  itntt  taaatliaa'a  ftoi,  or  two  fcat  of  water,  tfta  wavw 
ant  AMiar  than  the  water  aeuld  paaa  thgwi# 
Two  fmoft  waiw  at  work  »  laiga  pactfM 
,  heap  tha  Alp  claw,  aa  ■»efc  walaf  waa  oe^ 
m^  tmUnt  itawy  da—  <ha  alaaad  hatahaa  aMi  eihat 
» of  Aa  daali.  Tha  two  omb  at  aaidt  pawp  I*" 
M* 


li 


bofwi  ao  ttmOAj,  that  U  wh  m^mmrf  to  b»  f*n*T«i  *r 
oUMni  eTery  thra*  minutes.  I  i«(leol«l  on  tha  ooaditkM  ol 
tkoM  who  w«r»  not  pnfMred  for  dMtli,  and  that  •»•«  » 
«  CkrMsn  •  quia*  dMtb-twd  would  h»  prafcmbU  lo  U»». 
ing  th«  world  i»  mok  •  aoem  ol  oonftulon.  But  w«  w«r» 
•fMirad  in  great  kindiM*.  mnd  the  following  morning  the  wtod 
IwgMi  to  ah«l*.  Cptoin  Allyn,  who  hwl  b««i  Into  mo*  of 
th«  prinoip»l  mm,  and  •round  both  of  th«  gr»«t  C*pa% 
mM  ho  B«v«f  WW,  Mieept  in  a  typhoon  which  ho  onooiMtar. 
ed  on  th«  J»pMi  oo«tt,  any  galo  wMoh  aqnalled  this. 

Tho  galea  aontinuad  with  ft«qaent  M|ualU  of  hail  aad 
mia  until  tho  Wth,  whm  wo  firand  wn  wer*  driven  to  tto 
ttfi  of  aooth  latitodo,  and  7T«  woet  longitude.     TWa  waa 
Aurthar  aeuth  of  Capo  Horn  than  wa  wkdwd  to  go.    Thn 
vaathor  wae  oold  and  thick,  the  thamomater  ranging  ba> 
twam  41°  and  4r>  for  mnni  days.    On  the  IK  of  Mawak 
wa  aaw  for  the  first  Ume  after  leaving  Tahiti,  a  aail  m  tlla 
vtadward  heading  eouth-weet,  but  were  unable  to  spank 
kar.    b  WM  very  pleasant  lo  find  our  latknda  liatiaing  la 
«ar  homeward  course,  though  we  were  not  up  wMi  the  Oape 
•Mil  the  thiid  of  March.    During  the  galea,  and  eapeoiaUy 
in  slonny  weather,  our  vesssi  was  varj-  Aw|nantly  vWMi 
hy  a  bird  whieh  navigatota  oall  tha  Noddy,  and  wWeh  la 
aaslly  taken  with  dm  hand.    It  is  of  the  Teni  genuM,  twalat 
iMkea  long,  slanderiy  fomed ;  ita  plumage  la  a  dark  aaa^ 
Vown,  aieepting  tha  top  of  its  head^kbh  4s  dosky  vkila. 
Tka  AlbntRMa  alao  waa  constantly  flying  nkcnt  u%  Ng«ri> 
haa^r  wind  and  wayea.    Our  man  eanght  aavwml  of  dMi 
with  a  hook,  tto  heada  of  wUoh,  when  standing  opsa  tkn 
dank,  ware  four  foal  higk ;  tfceir  aler  meaawanMat  wa»l«i 
foal^   Althoagktbayaraganevallyofabr0wnoolnr,yi*in 
tkt  NgfoB  <^Oapa  Hon,  they  vary  flrom  n  miMutw  of  bffMni 


IMMlii 


UAatLLtmrn  vwom. 


Mt 


o  IM  r«n*T«d  hf 
m  th*  ooadilkm  ol 
ftnd  that  MTM  lo 
rtfcrabU  to  Umf. 
B.  Bill  w«  w«n« 
;  morning  th«wM 
bMB  into  moil  of 
th«  KTMt  C*pMi 

hfioh  ho  MMOiMtor- 
loallfld  this. 
|iwlU  of  hail  tmi 
W9n  driven  to  te 
(ittHlo.  TUawM 
Mlwd  to  go.  Tl» 
imrter  ranging  b»>. 
B  the  lat  of  MmoIi 
rayil,  •  anil  lo  tlli 
•  uMibl*  to  ttpttM 

tkwU  1 ing  in 

alupwIiliikoOftpo 
il«a,  wmI  Mpooinllf 
;  A«q«ratl]r  rUitaA 
B(My,  and  wyeh  Is 
Tero  gonuM,  t«r«l«» 
Ago  |g  A  dnrk  «i^ 
iehk4aaky«liil|ii 
g  nlMNa  iM»  ng»«'> 
ght  Mvwal  oClterii 
■bindiag  opaa  Ai 

bimrs  ookkr,  yiiiB 


Md  trMM,  to m  tlmaM  Mtirv  wblto.    Thojr  art  th«  Urgirt 
oi«w  of  iIm  f««tlMr«d  rao*. 

Wo  iMd  (br  •  long  timo  M  opportunity  of  oUorviim  llM 
MngollMilo  doudo  {  whloli  aro  throo  in  numbor,  two  lunin. 
e«w  and  on*  blaok  }  about  thirty  dagroo*  dlalant  Trom  eaob 
allMr,  and  flMd  in  tltair  ralatitra  aituatioM  aa  ara  tha  fixad 
■Ura.     Although  I  had  notioad  tham,  auppodng  tham  to  ba 
olonda,  and  wondering  how  an  illuminated  aloud  ahould  ba 
aaan  at  all  tinwa  of  tlia  night,  and  preaenra  ita  poaiiion  with 
an  outUa*)  ao  wall  defined  and  ao  plainly  marked,  yet  my 
mind  waa  not  wholly  eatiaflad  reapeoting  tham,  until  4ha 
Mat*  of  tha  ahip,  who  bad  aaan  tham  in  pr*vioua  voyaga% 
aad'whopoaaaaaad  oonaMarabla  aatroaor^oal  knowladga, 
painted  out  10  ma  aoma  of  tbairobaraotariatioa.    Thewaath* 
•r  te  thaaa  high  aouthern  latitudaa  being  ao  uailbrmly  tMek 
and  cloudy,  praveMad  our  obaarring  tham  ao  early,  or  oara> 
AiUy  aa  wa  might  otherwiaa  have  dona.    Thay  ware  dialtaet- 
If  vlaibia  for  waaka,  keeping  their  relative  akuatkm,  aad 
HMk  altitude  abo¥a  tha  aouthern  horiaon  leaaaning  to  Iha 
baholdar,  aooording  aa  hie  latitude  diminiahed  while  ha  pio< 
••adednmrth.    The  forma  of  aaohaia  about  Ava  degreaa  ia 
diamatar.    Tha  luminouronaa  undoubtedly  are  fonaad  by 
akialMra  of  atara,  ao  aumaioua  and  oontiguoua,  and  ao  dia> 
taat  aa  only  to  give  a  glimmering  light  like  luminoua  clonda, 
rhioh  givaa  tham  their  name  {  and  the  blaok  one  ia  vary 
prabaUy  tha  entire  abaenaa  of  all  light.    I  gaaad  at  thtaa, 
nighk  a^r  n%M,  with  wonder  and  admiratfon.    It  aaeaiwd 
innai  that  looking  at  the  dark  one,  waa  l(M|Unf  bayffiid 
oiaatad  nature  into  infiaita  apnea.  ■•  -rti-"^-- 

,^'jOnlMOoanrrad  oocaaienally  aft«r  wa  dkrabled  Cap*  Hom, 
hm  «KM«  of  tlm  time  waa  ploaawM  and  tha  wkida  fovomUa, 
naiil  tha  99th  «r  Maieh  in  aouth  laUtiida  39°  ST',  and 


Mi.  flMMUI.  At  MA. 

liMfi*wl«  M*  M',  iIm  wind  «wim  ummi  to  th*  om^,  u4 
oontlauinl  to  blow  from  *  northarly  dJnKrtkm  tat  uo  u«]r^ 
whioh  rvunkd  our  prof  rwM,  •n«l  o«rri«d  «m  o^T  o«r  <M«ir«t 
to  Um  cMt.  until  w«  W4N  broufhl  into  S««  w^  •  iftmi*, 
vhani  w  ohMigMl  our  oourM  ww*  by  north.  Oa  tho  •"• 
of  April,  wo  apoko  m  KoM  IndUman.  Mm  wm  a  vory 
Inrg*.  Iln#.looking  aliip,  of  about  oight  hundrod  lom,  woit 
Allod  with  men,  womon,  and  ohildron,  who  probably  WM» 
pnawngort  for  Now  Hollond.  Thin  wm  tho  An«  okip  wo 
had  apokon  ntUr  tho  0porton,  noor  Ibo  lino  on  tlio  olhor 
■Ido  of  tho  oootinMit.  It  1$  dMIloult  to  Imoflno  how  plo«»^ 
MM  it  k  to  MO  and  opoak  a  ship  aftor  HavinR  boon  months 
■I  tM.  A  fcw  houro  afkor,  wo  law  anothor  BaM  IndkmMi 
but  did  not  apoak  kor.  By  (klllag  In  with  thooo  ohipa,  «• 
found  wo  woro  ao  noar  AfHoa,  that  wo  wore  in  tho  tnok  «f 
■kipo  Arom  Buropo  to  tho  Capo  of  Ckxid  Hope.  « 

Tho  oamo  day  wo  bariod  one  of  the  iOMMa  in  tho  grwl 
daop.  Ho  waa  a  mMi  who  in  oariy  Ufo  waa  tfainod  tip  to 
tho  oai*  of  phMM  paronio,  but  whooo  aftor  Wfc  waa  mailwd 
by  tIooo,  whtoh  in  thoii  ooaow(iieneeo  lod>  toa  eempaiaUvo- 
ly  early  death,  ft  waa  a  aolemn  aoeao  when  wo  oommitlod 
hia  remains  to  the  watM  gmv:  Tho  ooleia  wore  ralMi 
half  masl,  the  whole  aMp'a  enanpaay  oellaatMl  arotmd ;  th* 
body,  with  weight*  ai.. .  v  laid  upon  a  plaak  at  tH« 
gang-way ;  and  we  •  i 
alid  tho  dread  aeoMM  >^j 
fmmtk*  Buggoatod  by  tho  oooaatai,  and  after  a  pmyov,  tte 
plank  was  gently  moved  over  tho  ddo  wT  the  aUp,  and  tM 
dead  dianppearwi  to  be  aaoo  no  moiv. 

On  the  Sd,  w*  made  Martte  Vaaa  Islanda,  fHMi  Mt  ive 
in  ttumbor,  oompoaad  wholly  of  voloanie  roeha,  wkkovl  mf 
koil;  BONMofthomaMoon*s.aiMniinf  «pfoatorfliwlM»> 


dl  for  a  ir  ■  v  ut  on 
1  addreoMd  tfiem  in  a  fo« 


•tiiiilMiiiiiiiiii 


la  th*  MH^,  tMi 
ikm  for  ten  iMiya, 
iM  otf  oar  (AMtrw 
I*  w  •  ifittkUt 
rrth.  l>a  Um  Anrt 
HIm  wm  a  ntry 
undrwd  lom,  wall 
Iw  probably  wm« 
I  lb«  Am  ■bip  w« 
lin«  «n  dM  olh«r 

l«f(ilM    Kow  p)M»- 

viHK  bMB  montb* 

•r  Bui  iMUuMMt 

tb  ibMwahipa,  w« 

Bn  in  Um  traok  of 

[op*. 

mmm  in  thcgrMl 

WM  tr»iiMd  up  to 

«  INb  WM  MMlMdl 

>lirBoeRip«ritlv«- 
thm  w»  ooromlttad 
wdon  w*w  rklM^ 
Mtadftroond;  tht 
OB  •  plttak  at  *S$ 
\u  VulM  dMlk 
m4  dim  iaftflr* 
»1Im  •  pmyMTi  A* 
r  the  ahlp,  mmI  tM 

roobii  wwMNlSMjf 
ipCwrorfliwI 


UAt/m  TAM  An 


WJINM. 


dr«4  ft«(.  Two  «ni  vary  Mnall  Mid  hmmIU  pninbMf .  Tlity 
•n>  kli  to  pfMipilotia,  «nd  Um  •••  oonaUustly  brcabinc 
AgkiiMl  Ibani,  UmI  thara  ia  no  landlnK.  Thair  fomw  ar* 
IbntaaUoal ;  nna  of  ibam  havinft  th«  appoaraaoa  of*  forU> 
(kmUon  wkb  baationa,  about  which  ars  naadia  poinia  raaam* 
bliiif  m«n  <hi  guard.  Th«y  ara  in  *J0°  81  aouth  laUtuda, 
and  'iST  9H'  wcnrt  longituda.  Ily  ohangiog  our  oouraa  mora 
waatarly  wa  ina<la  Trinidad,  offagaiiM  Bi.  Roqua,  whiob  ia 
an  iaUuMJ  of  oonaidarabla  aiM,  and  in  laltluda  90*'  W,  and 
loagituiia3Q°  6'.  Naar  avming  w«  ware  rilnen  mllaa  flrom 
it,  and  wiahing  to  land  In  tha  morning,  wa  looh  In  aail  and 
lay  off  for  tha  night.  Soma  Portugoeaa  onea  aattied  upon 
il,  bat  h  ia  ao  iliflkmll  of  aooeaa,  that  thay  abandoaad  it,  aa4 
it  i«  now  without  any  inhabitants. 

Oo  tbr  morning  of  tha  8d,  wa  ran  down  le  within  thrM 
nUlM  wf  Um  iaUiDd,  and  manned  threa  baata  to  go  on  ahor*  | 
but  finding  no  plaM  fV««  rrom  braakera,  gava  ap  tha  a^ 
tampi,  oaught  a  few  Oah  naar  the  ihorea,  and  after  being 
mnah  annoyed  with  (Ilea  wbieh  oama  off  to  ua,  wa  returned 
to  the  ahip,  and  with  a  favorable  breaaa  puraued  our  oourae. 
This  ieland  ie  aleo  vtriaaaio,  hM  an  iroa-bound  ahore,  and 
ia  moontainoiM,  the  higheat  part  of  whioh  is  about  flftsan 
huMlrod,  or  two  thousand  foet.  It  is  a  place  of  resort  for 
HMilUtudes  of  birds  and  sea  fowl,  some  of  whioh  are  largo. 
1  had  an  opportunity  to  see,  but  net  to  examine,  tho  man^f. 
war  hawk.  Thay  are  numerous  here,  and  while  thay  ara 
handsome,  thay  ara  also  ravmous,  always  taking  their  prsy 
ypen  the  wing.  There  were  many  of  tha  perfe<rtly  silky 
white  apeoiM  of  the  Tern,  whioh  hoversd  over  us  with  grNt 
ta—n'Ms,  M  though  thay  wished  to  l>m  an  aoqnaintanM 
wHh  OS,  not  suspecting  any  hostility. 

Mast  of  our  nights  m  wall  h  days  for  a  long  tine  were 


mm*" 


m»m* 


mmm 


Nt  mmiMf  AT  oul. 

elMr,  aad  the  utan  w«ra  «Mn  wHh  renwrlnble  MghtMii. 
What  has  hem  dcaoribed  by  others  of  evaningt  at  ma,  In 
the  soutliera  hemisphere,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observing 
with  edmiratior.  The  rioheet  colon  of  red,  orange,  and 
yellow,  are  qiread  over  the  vestem  Aj  after  the  aettlng 
auD,  and  oAeo  over  the  whole  concave  of  heaven.  No  f^- 
cU  of  art  oan  imitate  the  tints  and  huec  which  blend  in  soft, 
aess  over  this  scene  of  beauty.  Nature's  pencil  only  can 
lay  on  these  delicate  shades,  and  add  to  them  the  brillhuioy* 
ever  varying,  of  so  much  richness  and  splendor. 

In  the  dMp  seas  we  did  not  see  many  fob ;  of  the  ft# 
whidi  came  under  our  observttion,  the  dtrado,  or  as  cam<' 
m  mly  called,  the  dolphin,  and  the  pilot  fliAi  escelled  m  the 
beauty  of  their  colors.  The  ibrmar,  when  tidcen  upon  deck, 
constantly  changed  its  colon  firom  the  bright  purpla  to  the 
gdd,  the  bluish  green,  andthe  ritver  white,  and  these  spread' 
ing  out  into  vanishing  shades.  The  pilot  iish  is  equalfy 
heMutifiili  but  is  singular  in  the  choice  of  company  and  ett- 
idoymect  i  alwayt  being  found  wtdi  the  diaifc,  aifd  Modndt- 
ing  Um  to  Ma  prey,  from  which  It  derives  its  namb. 

1%e  flying  fish  is  a  curiosity,  flimiahed  with  powvn  for 
cQOueyii^  both  air  and  water,  but  finds  norfiriend  in  «ithflir  T 
pursued  by  tlie  porpobe,  or  the  dolphin^  or  soaae  other  tik, 
it  swiaM  with  all  ^eed  until  It  Mti  no  longer  escaprttsil- 
stnwtive  raeny,  and  then  takes  to  flight  in  the  air,  wh^ 
che  albatrOM  and  the  man^of^war  hawk  hover  to  mcke  it 
their  pny.  In  its  flight  it  oftm  foils  upon  the  dedu  of 
skipa,  where  MOM  riiows  it  no  mercy. 

On  the  19th  of  April  we  passed  the  equator.  For  a  foNv 
days  we  had  calms  or  only  light  wii^  withskswen.  Tk* 
heat  was  very  intenm,  and  to  be  beeahned  under  tlMM  Oit- 
onmalaacM  la  m(»»  to  bo  dreadM  than  gakw.     Bat  we 


ttm 


mmmm 


mmmmsmmBmmmm 


■mmtMam  (tiii.ii»nnriiii 


mttmrnmrmiF 


mkurn 


vmKm 


mwm 


iP 


mm 


trfcible  MghtMti- 
ivaningt  at  mm,  in 
tunhy  of  obwrfhig 
»f  red,  oniiig«,  vtA 
■J  after  the  asttliif 
'iHATen.  TffoftHk. 
rhieh  blend  in  w>ft. 
b's  pencil  only  can 
them  the  brillknoy, 
iplendor. 

17  fish ;  of  the  fc# 
dormdo,  or  as  oMU* 
fiiAi  eseelled  A  the 
MB  taken  upon  deok, 
)right  purple  to  the 
te,andtheati«pre«d> 
•ilot  fish  is  equalff 
>f  conpaay  ftod  ett. 
diaifc,  and  oooAvM- 
nes  its  namie.  ^ 
led  with  powers  fl^ 

nafiriendiQeflhMrr 
,  or  SMne  other  flii^^ 
louger  escaprttsJP 
pht  in  the  air,  Wh^ 
rk  horer  to  mftlce  ft 
m  upon  the  deeki^ 

iqoator.  For  a  l^w' 
wididtswers.  Tltt 
nod  vuider  th«M  ofar- 
Ml  galea.    Bis^  we 


m»A  hwnd,  and  sdob  fimnd  oanelvea  in  north  lat- 
itude, and  it  was  with  sensations  of  delight  that  I  again  be- 
held  the  North  star,  though  but  just  above  the  horiwm.  I 
heUed  H  arthe  harUnger  ofgood,  and  an  indication  that  I 
wai>  bm  approaching  my  laoj  deeired  hone  and  Mends. 

All  .olyeiBts  at  ssa  are  oonsidered  worthy  of  notioe,  and 
the  gulf  weed,  which  -was  seen  in  grant  abnndanoe  belbra 
we  cane  to  the  gulf^mam,  was  obssrved  with  no  nmall 
interest.  It  is  4n  aquatic  plant  of  a  peculiar  light  graen 
color,  and  floats  upon  the  surface  of  the  water.  ,  We  en- 
tered and  passed  the  stream  at  tl.d  14tl.  of  May,  in  86^  ST 
north  latitude;  and  though  a  rough  sea  is  generally  «ipe» 
led  itere,  yet  we  had  a  very  pleasant  time.  The  oumnt 
L  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour,  and  the  temperature 
seven  degre***  wanner  than  the  adjacent  water. 

On  the  nih  of  May,  at  three  in  the  aftekuocm,  we  wen 
cheered  widi  the  cry  from  the  man  at  the  mast  head,  *^Lmi 
hot  akead."  It  proved  to  be  Block  Island.  We  came  in 
sight  of  the  light.houM  in  the  evening,  I  ut  too  late  to  at- 
tempt to  get  into  the  harbor  before  morning,  and  Uierelbie 
lay  <^  for  the  night.  In  tiie  morning  we  found  oursdves 
among  various  shipping  bound  to  difiwrent  ports.  We  paia. 
ed  Mimtauk  Point  and  drew  near  to  New  Loadon,  where 
the  si|^t  of  the  city,  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  the  country 
around,  and  the  islands  dressed  fa>  green,  were  moat  gratefbl, 
especially  to  one  so  long  conversant  with  heathen  countries 
and  a  wide  expanse  of  ocean.  Passed  up  the  Thames  to 
the  city,  and  I  rejoiced  to  land  once  more  upon  Christian 
and  civilized  shores,  my  native  land,  my  country !  In 
taking  loave  of  the  Phoenix,  I  folt  it  due  to  the  oaptftin  and 
crew  to  say,  that  I  received  fVom  them  every  kind  attention 
I  cmild  wish,  and  it  befaig  a  temperance  ship,  I  did  not  hear  a 


niniiii'inTiidiHiiiiia 


pMAuM  wotd  tnm  may  wbU«  on  bo»rd  W«  te4  pdMle 
woraUp,  during  Um  tojrage  on  the  Sabbath,  and  tbe  word  «r 
God  waa  bleMod,  aa  thwre  waa  r«iw»n  to  b8^la▼^  lo  the 
feaviag  oooTaraioB  of  aome  aoola.  I  iNiad  kind  ftianda  ia 
Naw  London,  and  after  arranging  my  biwineaa,  direetad  my 
way  to  Ithaoa,  when  I  arrived  on  the  3Sd  of  May,  aft«r  an 
abaeace  of  morvthan  two  yeara  and  two  montha,  and  having 
aoeompliahed  a  journey  of  twenty-eight  tfaooaand  milea. 


■  :'cy 


'  't  BAYS  ta  eeveral  t>lacee  made  menUon  of  the  superior 
mlldneM  of  the  climate  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
that  the  aeaaona  are  divided  into  the  wet  and  dry ;  the  rainy 
aeaaoo  commencing  about  the  ftfst  of  November,  and  the 
dry  about  the  firrt  of  May.  The  following  Meteorological 
Table,  which  waa  Jaken  with  care,  will  give  a  general  epf - 
dmwi. 


iili 


liiliir-  -•''--"iiaiJWinnii(iiiiiiriiiWiffiifiiiiii iiri'i '' '  ' '   •"'"'*' ''""'"  '"""'f 


.  W«lMid  pdMlb 
th,  Mid  the  word  «r 
to  twiiAve,  to  tiie 
lad  kind  ftianda  hi 
dmrn,  diraetwl  my 
Id  of  Hmy,  aftwr  an 
oaontlui,  tod  IWTiiii 
tjboannd  aiilM. 


[on  of  the  saperfer 
iky  Mountains,  Mid 
and  dry ;  the  rainy 
November,  and  the 
ing  Meteorological 
give  a  general  wpp- 


f  ,  1  .;*  4»-^.- 


:'>i.  ,>'"'^.("^:?»;«^i 


UnOBOUHMCAt  TABU. 


1         1 


444 


llllrll^lnll 


^  1^  I 

.  %444%'^4        i 


.i^SSSSSS 


s:  8  13  8  9 


^    M)    W     t>    »    •>    2 

84 


8s  s  s  a  »  & 


mmmmm 


mmmm 


WnMOKWOKAM.   TABU* 


X 


■ppp 


J  I 

ii    flllfillli    list 


I 


i  s  I 


t 


■~^  ■ 


I 


1 
I 


i 


in 


|Sll|l  .1    I    tjrll 


ill'illlllllJI 


Hill 


8S4S8SI9999S98      98999 


3  9  99  St  8  9  8  9  a  S  9  9      88333 
8  9  98898889998      899^8 


9  S8  StSfiS  88  Sift  8  8  8 


S 


Nfta 


MKniiiiii 


MMMiiMiiiiiii 


MiMMIfi) 


9  8  9  99 

8  8  3  3  2 


8  9  9  K  8 


^    <-•    M    ••    <• 


>■>•< 


■mOBOIrOOKAL  TABU. 


-Mi 


}||44  44  4|     liji     I     III 


11         ll  **!UI 


}|||44443|| 


ttmm 


l98  9899R8988il888  9  8  9  X 


1899  9  9996999  a^  899899  8 


I  9888  88  a  3^8  8  88  8  888  8  98 


rf  ci  d 


liilMliiiiiiWiiyi 


Hiiii 


iHiiii 


mmmmmsmmmm 


ynm^f<^iftftlffA^  TAMA 


1     1  *t  i     Ilil 

1:111  IllillfMliiir 


i 
I 

I 

lilfl 


•i      *i  nil 
fiiijilliilfii 


I^Kt«9      9  aill  a  »  II  !(  R  9  ^  «  !9  9  f 


9l99!t9      »  8S»  S  a  «  X««  9  9  99 

Iix9si8    sa8)na(8i8issia8»ii« 

« S  rf  ii 


«  «  9  9  9  f 

a  SI  8  »  11 »' 

•s  a  a  a  a 

4 


nmim^mmmsimis^ 


iOnOIOUMIOAt  TAatl. 


1 

i 


I  \ 

I   II    ifil   iA 
liiJiiiMlil 


I 

I'. 

I 


idiiiiiniiiiiiit 


V99  9;?  Stl^a  ft  9  9  a  »  »  3  9  9       S9 


I9999ait9rar8i9&»3»99     sa 


l99»a88IRft898iSSS99       S9 


-«!*- 


.i  it 

84» 


J  piniiimiiiiiiwTi 


^taiKl 


asnoscMeRUL  tasut. 


lillifJllltl 


iiiJiii 


Ui 


Jlllli 


ft 


I 
J 

iU    If, 

|«4»3K9»9988a««S«XII 


ti    \\\  \miimimiMiimmM 


s»* 


■STsoacteeiCA!.  rxaiM. 


i 


I 


I        J 


Hi  rijiji 


unl 


iflllf  ilftrl 


I  6  ft  9  9  a  S  9i  3(  8)  til  SS      8  9  9  3:193 
I  » 3 9 9 » 3 9 9  9 9 9      99999^9 


Sls:8S83flSS««»8;S 


fH    «    M    '«    W)    «•    »• 


MllillMp<wi"i*nMM 


■iMHIiiw-MMPi 


If 


»  99  3  18  9  3 

3  «  S  8  8  S  9t 


a  9  9  9  9  ^t; 


|UtTSO*OLOatC4L  TAUJb 


II- 


I 

1 


'iilm<t  tiliialjl 


t 

uhlit 


i 

1 

1 


Mflll 


ill 


913999999      9S 


!(iS99S9SX9S:S       8 


8  es  8  9 


199999999 


•*SS99S9S!:SSasi8aa(88B 
ii  «  « 


■nil 


I»^*»l*l«"ll 


mmoBOLoeicAt  tabu. 


1     I 


1 


*  5 


.a 

s 


Iss  Ifilrllis 


*  u 


I 

J 

ir 


1 


1 


Ji 
III 


I 


i 


g 


•   8  J 

•r 


I  I       1  3  g  g  i  i  t 

rll  Si  iNitiiililtf  I" 

**       Q      Q       SSS^^SSS      S&33J 

I 

S  S;  <8      3  S  i5  iS  li!  3  8  S  S  3  S!8  S  i?  IS   I 


,  1 


^MiiMMiMiiMMMiiii^^ 


liWiililMiiiiiiwp 


•   8  ^ 

a 


1  sffl* 

a  -a  -5  -fS  -8   i 

S  &  3  S  j 
I 

e!S3  is  IS  I 

3  S  3  !a;  3 

s5  ss  2  s  a 

4 


V 


i.AireviieBf. 


Ml 


VOCABULARY  OF  INDIAN  LANGUAGES. 


SiVEBAL  gentlemen  of  erudition,  who  have  profesBedly  in- 
vestigatcd  the  languages  of  the  American  Indians,  have  giv- 
an  it  as  their  opinion,  that  they  are  all  traceable  to  four 
roots.  But  I  am  confident,  from  the  opportunities  I  have 
had  to  examine  the  languages  of  mar  y  different  nations,  that 
the  opinion  is  entirely  unfounded.  The  following  vocabu. 
laries  are  given  as  specimens  of  difference  in  the  languages 
of  four  nations  in  Oregon.  The  languages  of  other  nations 
are  equally  distinct. 

NSZ  FBRCB   LANOUAOB. 


EngKsh. 

Indian. 

God. 

hemikis  Tota 

Spirit,  . 

koonapa. 

Father, 

tota. 

Man, 

Umk. 

Woman,       ' 

iat. 

Mother, 

p«ka. 

Child, 

mSaits. 

Brother, 

uskeep. 

Sister. 

azsip. 

Husband, 

hknA. 

Wife, 

waipna. 

I. 

en. 

Thou, 

86 

Em. 

■iiiMiiiiilHi 


mmmii 


MiM 


iWMIIIIWIiilMllHIWIIitWW 


Nil 

naoK. 

He, 

emim. 

She, 

•iat. 

It, 

ke. 

They, 

el&hne  tetokan. 

People, 

tetokan. 

Heaven, 
Earth, 

accompenaka. 
waitush. 

Water, 

coos. 

File, 

aula. 

8now, 

maika. 

Rain, 

Vaikit. 

Wood, 

haitsu. 

Grass, 

Hell  or  bad  spirit. 

Horse, 

pax. 

koonapa  kapseish. 

sheoum. 

White  Bear, 

h&h&ts. 

Black  Bear, 

eakat. 

Beaver, 
Otter, 

taxpuU. 
collas. 

Deer, 

enishnim. 

Mor«e, 
Bufiklot 

taisaheep. 
oocoil. 

Wolf, 
Salnum, 

siyah. 
natso. 

Trout, 

wowaltbum. 

Gun, 

temoon. 

Powder, 
Ball, 
Stone, 
What  is  that? 

pOpokes. 
saip. 
pishwa. 
etuke. 

Who  is  that! 

esheke. 

There, 

koone. 

MMil 


"'Vi^-''  "w Tflp V" T^i'^-  • 


e  tetokan. 
in. 

npenaka. 
lah. 


a. 
it. 
u. 

apa  kapseiah. 

itn. 

is. 

t. 

ill. 

a. 

inim. 

heep. 

il. 

\i. 

t. 

altbum. 

ton. 

kea. 

m. 
te, 
ke. 

le. 


MHZ 

PBBOB. 

Here, 

kine 

Where, 

mene. 

When, 

mowwa. 

How  many  f 

moits. 

None, 

alou. 

All, 

oekalla. 

Plenty, 

elahne. 

Near  by, 

keemta. 

Great  way  off,. 

wyat. 

This  road,            -^ 

iakit. 

Stop, 

collo. 

Go, 

ooetuo. 

Run, 

willaikit. 

Go  fast, 

haum  teeta. 

Stop  hore^ 

collo  kene.- 

Enoamp, 

wispeix. 

Sleep, 

penemeek.- 

Bat, 

hipsh. 

I  hear, 

en  amachish. 

You  hear. 

€m  amachishr 

I  understand^ 

en  amacua. 

Come, 

oOme. 

I  know. 

en  soko. 

Tou  knowr 

em  soko. 

He  knows, 

emim  soko. 

They  know. 

tetokan  soko. 

r  do  not  know.r 

waiitu  en  soko. 

Talk, 

tumtein. 

Ride, 

wyatcus. 

Wait,. 

eSats. 

Swim, 

shuway. 

-        Love, 

aitou. . 

mMSMMMMMMMM 


HMMMtaMUMW^' 


»:k 


MBS  niuR* 


Hate, 

waiitu  aitou. 

KlU, 

w&paeou. 

Alire, 

waikus. 

Make, 

ainees. 

Take, 

enip. 

Carry, 

nnip  coeta. 

Give, 

en&haaim. 

Pay. 

tumaitous. 

Make  fire. 

ailix. 

Worship, 

tolla  poosa.. 

Smoke, 

kei«ta 

Sun,  moon. 

hasunitooks. 

Prairie, 

paix. 

Mountain^ 

mashum. 

Friend, 

sextua. 

Chief, 

me6h5t. 

Nez  Peroe, 

nQm6po. 

Flathead, 

•ailep. 

Blackfoot^ 

quasne. 

Bonnax» 

tuelca. 

American, 

BuSapo. 

Indian, 

tete  teluit. 

Frenchman* 

allTma. 

Head, 

hooshus. 

Hair, 

hookoo. 

Arm, 

artum. 

Leg, 

waiu. 

Foot, 

akooa. 

Cloth, 

tahea. 

Saddle. 

supeii  Mipooii 

Pack, 

aupen  sapa. 

Beads, 

collowin. 

"mmmeui 


Mil 


litfliiiMi 


mm 


ssk 


rmmimtk 


mmm 


fnt  PBtC»— MJMATAT. 


4M 


aitou. 

lU. 

I. 


>eta. 
lim. 

3US. 
OOSBf 

looks. 

m. 

t. 

0. 


uit. 


upooii. 

saps. 


Ji. 


Oood, 
Bad, 
No, 
Y«a, 

Great, 

Small, 

Siok, 

Well, 

To-day, 

Yesterday, 

Once  more, 

White, 

Black, 

Red, 

Vermilion, 

Paint, 

1  nox. 

2  lapeet. 
8  metait. 
4  pSilop. 
6  pahut. 

6  elaix. 

7  quoenapt. 

8  wemuttut. 

9  quoies. 

▼OCASULiAT  OF  TBE 
COUNTBT 

EngUah. 
God, 

Evil  spirit, 
Sun, 
Moon, 


tois. 

kapoels. 

waiitu. 

ki. 

hemakia. 

coots. 

oomitsa. 

penamina. 

t&x. 

w&tish. 

nox  emaka. 

hihi.  ^ 

cinmo  cimmeo. 

ilpelp. 

ailish. 

penasuet. 

10  poetumpt. 

11  nox  tit. 

12  lapeet  tit. 
20  laaptit. 
SO  metaip  tit. 
40  pelap  tit. 
50  pahap  tit. 

100  pooetaptit. 

H.ICATAT  NATION  WHO  INHABIT  THE 
MOETH  OF  THE  CASCADES. 

Indian. 
Meyoh. 
melah. 
In. 
ulhigh'. 


imttiimmm 


MMimililiiiiffiiiirnitiWi'i 


■y- 


mmmmmi'tm 


46« 


tSMAIAt. 


c.^  ., 

kaahlo. 

Pi»t, 

Idikowouks. 

Earth, 

te  'taum. 

Water, 

chow  wa«. 

Stone, 

'p's  Bwah. 

Wood, 

il  quas. 

House, 

•nneet. 

Bread, 

ahappleel. 

Fiah. 

t'kuinnat. 

Deer, 

owiiutat. 

Bird, 

'hat  'hot. 

Cow, 

moos  moos  stun. 

Hone, 

kosee. 

Dog, 

kosikkoeee. 

Boat, 

quiasas. 

Man, 

.wince. 

Woman, 

iyet. 

Qirl, 

p'teenika. 

Boy, 

asswan. 

Fingers, 

pahhahtopat. 

Foot, 

'  wattekas. 

Toe, 

owhunghe. 

Tongue, 

melleeae. 

Ear, 

miaahu  (plu.)  peMihmisshu 

Mouth, 

mettolla'hhow. 

Lip, 

um,  (plu.)  pesah  um. 

Black, 

ch€mook.>> 

White. 

pillas. 

Oreen, 

Uhm't. 

Yellow, 

penahkunnootowasB. 

Red, 

klutilh. 

Good,. 

seyah. 

mmmmmssam 


MMki 


wmxmm'm' 


liki. 

in. 

ihtoptt. 

)kM. 

inghe. 

BOM. 

(plu.)  peMhmiMhu. 

oUa'hhow. 

(plu.)  peMh  urn. 

iook.>> 

I. 

,'t. 

hkunnootowMi. 

Ah. 
1. 


niCATAT.                                        •' 

Bitd, 

ohilooeet. 

High, 

<quaahm«. 

Low, 

iiifltee.                   \    . 

K»ny. 

hugh'llk. 

Few, 

millah. 

Little, 

iknike. 

WRo? 

lindewah. 

What? 

•ininiuwah. 

Kntfo, 

hahbittelme. 

Bow, 

toominpaa. 

Arrow, 

kiasso. 

Oun, 

toowinpaa. 

06ftf 

attaokai. 

River, 

winnah 

Lake, 

wattum. 

Mountain, 

<ke'h. 

Hill, 

puaaque. 

Valley. 

•tkop. 

Plain,. 

Hk. 

Here, 

itche. 

There, 

ekkone. 

Near. 

'tsahpah. 

Far  off, 

weat'tpah. 

Night. 

'taet. 

D»y, 

echoosah. 

Where, 

minnan. 

When, 

mittaoh. 

I  walk, 

inikwenahsah. 

Itolk, 

ainewesah. 

None, 

chahow. 

I  know. 

assooksah. 

I  have  known. 

mewe  sah  so<rfi  sah. 

407 


"«»~»%«"iii^iijiui)M^Tti»iawa»a»,M»lSmt^'l'i^^  ■"""■"'  '  iiiiniiimi  i    n  mWhi 


■Mi 


ZUClTl¥->«  AtiirOOA . 


IW 


tkheno  Mh. 
ok  Mih. 
saah. 

)kM  Mh. 


dik. 
(itukh. 


Eoop. 

jm. 

ik. 


ih«. 

oka. 

lowah. 

reek. 

nuhtfiak. 

Itup. 

imteen. 

total. 

olas. 

ahnaa. 

u. 

its. 

A, 


Rabbit, 

■iuwe. 

CM, 

wAaawlai. 

Wolf, 

enahte. 

Bear, 

'holleea. 

Otter, 

nookai. 

Lasinesa, 

ilkkah. 

Bleep, 

'taotah. 

Soft, 

uquatuquau 

Strength, 

h'too. 

Swan, 

w&hhalow. 

Goat, 

powyanin. 

Beada, 

k'lput. 

Cold, 

•tfloiaah. 

Hard, 

kntot'k. 

1  lah'a. 

19  neop'tw&ppena, 

3  neep't, 

13  mettaptw&ppena 

8  mettapt', 

20  neeptit, 

4  peneep'l, 

80  mettAptit, 

5  pahhat, 

40  peneeptit, 

6  p'tuhninia, 

50  pahhiptit, 

T  tooakia, 

60  p'tuhflfaiaaptit, 

6  pahhahhomaht. 

70  tooakahaaptit. 

0  *Uawlaw8iinkah, 

80  pahhahtuaap'tit, 

10  hOtem, 

00  'tsaulochaiptit. 

11  llih'swftppena, 

100  potemtit. 

▼OCABtftJlBT 

or  THB  CALAPOOA  NATIOM. 

God, 

'ntaompate. 

Heaven, 

ahlupklooah. 

Evil  Spirit, 

ehwakehe. 

Hell, 

owievenah. 

Sun, 

'npeun. 

Moou, 

<atope. 

Hpit 


iniWilt** 


iMiiMM 


■MK 


OAVAfOOA. 


0UU>, 

'ntaalowah. 

PIM, 

umml. 

Earth, 

umpuUo. 

Wind, 

'ntolouh. 

Water, 

*mpahke. 

Wood, 

owlttuk. 

Btono, 

•ntiugk. 

Bono. 

•ataa. 

Houw, 

Bread, 

^pplcel. 

Pish, 

'ntumuak. 

Deer, 

ammoke'. 

Elk, 

<iitokah. 

Bivd, 

Doknok. 

Horw, 

kuetan. 

Oofw, 

mootniooa. 

Dog» 

•nUMl. 

Boat, 

'mpaw. 

Man, 

<Qoihee. 

Woman, 

ehw»hkt«ut> 

Boy, 

ehwahpyah> 

Girl, 

I, 

Thou, 

'ir^pecaa. 

nu^^ 

He, 

annoihe. 

She, 

ahwabkkotaut. 

My  father, 

hum  nee. 

Tour  &th«r, 

makkan  nee. 

My  mother, 

ainnee. 

Elder  brother, 

t4h. 

Sifter, 

ahetup. 

Huaband, 

tahwabka. 

IMMM 


lo. 
ih. 
U. 
tk. 
k. 


ike'. 
Ji. 

k. 
a. 
noQ*. 

9, 

hktsut> 
hpy^h. 


ihe. 

ihkkotout. 
bee. 
can  nee. 

BO* 

ip. 
abke. 


eALAfOA/. 


Wife. 

tahwahke. 

Yoe, 

aw. 

No. 

kuaaowa. 

Head. 

unqu4h. 

Mouth, 

tinte. 

Chin, 

•tllkk. 

Teeth, 

tinte. 

Arm 

t'ntooque. 

Hand, 

t'lakquah. 

Plngw, 

taw'nah. 

Foot, 

teuoibh. 

i5»r, 

toandunkahtlfa. 

Blaok. 

mo*. 

White, 

mow'. 

Blue, 

'mpulunk. 

Orten, 

pltohyi. 

Red, 

'teelow. 

Good, 

miaao. 

Bad, 

kaskah. 

High, 

tohamaytink. 

Low, 

w4Uah. 

Many, 

milloe. 

Pew, 

'mponuk. 

Urge, 

pellah. 

Small, 

«too. 

Who, 

.  RValu 

Wha&, 

fcunikkee. 

Knife, 

'nkcmiatik. 

Bow, 

unohin. 

Arrow, 

im'owauk. 

Gun, 

■ttkwillahlab. 

■„ 

mullak. 

4tl 


m$» 


mtammm 


W.IWI  i  fHiJtmM  Mill  IM  111. '  IMII  '<— 


413 


tUvir, 

'ntMk. 

Uk*. 

wAMetnumim^w. 

Mountain, 

proiMhniobok. 

Valliiy. 

wlilah. 

Night, 

mooyoo. 

Dty. 

'mpflyon. 

Hera, 

nvhaah* 

Th«ra, 

plflfan. 

Near. 

•mohilUh. 

Par  off, 

m'lokklo. 

Where, 

mutohoo. 

Vfhtin, 

tahnondeh. 

To  t«lk, 

tanuk. 

To  walk. 

owlllowah. 

None, 

♦nwa. 

I  MM, 

ohat«'onhot<o. 

DMV«r, 

*nkipeah. 

All, 

ttlob. 

cbur. 

'ntaombeek. 

Commoo  OMf 

anwookee. 

Come, 

mahok. 

Go, 

Uttea. 

Girer 

mahaque. 

Swan,. 

mow. 

Rabbit, 

ttmpoUt 

Wolf, 

molont. 

Bear, 

■mino. 

Sleep, 

towi. 

Hard, 

<p<taAkkolloo. 

SoA, 

^                 'mput'I. 

Bdl, 

liplip. 

1  towneh. 

10  teeoeefeah&b, 

ilii 


mfm 


OALAMM'— 'OnMOOt* 


4ta 


f  k«mah, 

11  tornpfcahpfltowoah, 

t  poihin, 

la  tecnert<ali|Kiltaatali, 

4  toliwaht 

90  kenftitenofoah, 

6  wul, 

80  p'ahintorirroah, 

6  am, 

40  toliwatciinfoah, 

7  p'Blnm«w«, 

00  wultrnorivaiit 

6  ko'ninwe, 

100  trnnroah, 

0  'quiNtch, 

1000  tumpeah. 

rocunuAMJ  or  m 

CHKNOOK    LANUOAOI    Afl   SyOUN 

ABOUT 

PORT    VANCOOVKI. 

Ood. 

Cannum. 

Iloavrn, 

cootah. 

Earth, 

niaha. 

Fire, 

olaptaka. 

Water, 

isuck. 

8«a, 

woooma. 

River, 

Ibolt. 

Sun, 

otiah. 

Moon, 

ootleum. 

Evil  ipirit, 

■kokonm. 

Hell. 

■kokoom. 

Boat, 

oonim. 

Knife, 

6piUali. 

Gun, 

■ucwAlial. 

Powder, 

poolaUa. 

Ball, 

colifitan. 

Air, 

kummataz. 

I, 

nUuu, 

Thou, 

mlka. 

He. 

yahkah. 

She, 

yAhkah. 

rt  or  tluMn, 

klaska. 

■'■iliMMMaM 


iiiiil 


414 


essxooir. 


Chief, 

tie. 

Boy, 

kaskas. 

Girl, 

I'kpho. 

Sister, 

bhts. 

Father, 

tileoummama. 

Mother, 

stMImama. 

People, 

tileoum. 

Tes, 

ah,  or  aha. 

No, 

wayick,  or  wtke< 

Good, 

close. 

Bmi, 

wake  dose. 

Very  bad. 

mestsa. 

Large, 

hias. 

Small, 

tunaa. 

F»>r, 

ai&. 

Little  way. 

tunas  Bi&. 

Great  way, 

hias  ak. 

To  go  fast, 

olatua  hiuo. 

Not  fast, 

wake  hiuo. 

Black, 

klaait. 

White, 

t<koop. 

Blue, 

speck. 

Red, 

pelpil. 

Green, 

peteish. 

High, 

saghalle. 

Low, 

kekuUe. 

Now, 

witki. 

Much, 

o^iooway. 

Little, 

tunas. 

Who, 

tkaksta. 

What, 

ikta. 

Mountaio, 

saghalle  Olaba. 

- 

•     » 

mms^fm'^^'^ 


jjyipiiiii     mil  III"' null mw>.i'n 


cimrooi. 

a 

Vulley, 

When, 

Here, 

Night. 

None, 

Bear, 

Beaver, 

Fox, 

Wolf, 

Deer, 

Horse,. 

Cow, 

]>(«. 

Salmon, 

Bird, 

Speak, 

I  speak, 

Thou  speakest, 

He  speaks. 

They  speak, 

Make, 

I  make, 

Thou  makest. 

He  makes. 

They  make, 

Come, 

Perhaps,  or  I  do  not  know 

dnderstand, 

I  understand. 

Now  I  understand, 

Sleep, 

I  have,  or  it  la  with  me. 


415 


kekulle  Ulahks 

olh. 

ookook. 

pollakle. 

haloo. 

siano. 

eena. 

tiskowkow. 

leelo. 

moueech. 

kuetan. 

moosmoos. 

kamux.  ' 

quanagh. 

kallakalla. 

W&W&. 

nioa  W&W&.         , 

mica  w&wft. 
'  yftkk&  w&wA. 

klaska  w&wl. 

mammook. 
.  nioa  mammook. 

mica  mammodk. 

y4kk&  mammook. 

klaska  mammook. 

ohawko. 

olunas. 

oumetax. 

nioa  oumetax. 

alta  nioa  oumetax. 
-  mooeom. 

mitlit  nica. 


itiaii'staiaftii 


fM9 


«9 


cmradH^ 


nioA  oUtnwa. 

aonaootu. 

noneaeech. 

mucamuo. 
8  ■toghtkio, 
0  quiitz, 
10  teughlelum, 
80  moxttftghlelum, 
40  'lakitt&ghlelum, 
100  Uughlelum  taughlelum. 


I  walk, 

Longago, 

Bee, 

Eat, 
1  eght, 
S  moxt, 
8  Dons, 

4  <l&kit, 

5  quinum, 
0  tobhum, 
7  sinnuBOZ, 

The  Philologist,  by  examining  the  specimens  of  th»  lan- 
guages in  the  fbtegoiiig  vocabularies,  will  notice  how  en- 
tirely distinct  they  are  tbom  each  other,  and  may  form  his 
own  oi^ions  in  regard  to  their  origin.  The  languages  of 
other  Indian  nations  arc  equally  distinct.  The  use  of  the 
oommaa,  as  in  'ke%  mountain  ;  'ntihee,  ouui;  is  dedgaed 
to  designate  a  gutteral  sound,  wholly  inarticulate. 


„..>v*  ■■, 


K*  K,K/   k"  ^. 


^ 


alum, 

ghlelum, 

ghlelum, 

elum  taughlelum 


Ml*  I I 


oimens  of  th»  Itn- 
ill  notice  how  en- 
and  may  form  his 
The  language*  of 
,  The  uae  of  the 
ouuk;  ia  dadgaei 
kitieulate. 


■0 


9 


g 


«    €. 


"^"'" '  |-  iiiiiliiiii  Miiiiii  ■-'■■■■■    "-■-  ■' .>*j— fc* 


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f 


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